@@Offline395 use flux, it will solder. But the heat generated soldering nickle strip is not safe, thats why you plug solder these as its low melt solder to solder.
I see several comments that mention scuffing or sanding the surface first. I do believe this would create a better bonding surface as well. I don't own a spot welder yet, until I do I am glad I saw this tip because I have had times where I have to solder new tabs to a battery and don't get good results, I do believe this method of drilling the hole will allow a better hold on the strip/tab. Thanks for showing this, I think its a great alternative idea to spot welding.
For my office phones, instead of spending $20 per battery pack, I just made my own lithium packs with AA giving them tons more mAh. Sanding works just fine, to create a busbar or just using multistrand wire like I did. Sand, flux, solder to the battery. If it sticks well to the battery, then apply your wire. I personally would not spotweld, as the temperature spike and high voltage spike can damage the cell, or worse go right through the metal leaving a hole.
if you think that it means you need to study how welding and soldering actually work my friend. they aren't adhesives. surface area is for adhesives. for metals they are bonding. It's a bit complex but suffice to say you need as much surface to surface contact on your joint and that causing scratches actually would decrease that not increase it. but i might be wrong. maybe it does help.
@@Sim-q9t I do not mean adhesives, when saying if the solder 'sticks' to the ends of the batteries. Battery ends, components, and other metals that are steel/nickel components are polished and often covered with a lacquer, during manufacturing. Just look up a battery makeup. That way they do not rust and corrode super fast. Hard to get solder to stick. Sanding it down increase surface area and gets the metal exposed enough to take the flux, then solder. The solder then makes a conductive 'pad' to which you can then solder a wire to it. When putting in modchips in consoles, there are some components on the board, you HAVE to take a emery board to, just to get the solder to stick.- because of the coatings. Also same with 26,28g beadsmith wire, that needs to be scraped to remove the coatings before soldering. Soldering, unlike welding.. the metals are actually only touching the conductive solder, but getting the solder to 'stick' is the first step. You are not actually 'fusing' two metals together.
@@rwhite9994 No volts or current can go thru the battery because the only path available for electrons is thru the spots where the metals connect. Not even a large spike can go into the battery... it's not like static electricity. And since it heats such a tiny area, it's not warming the spot for as long, or for as hugely wide an area that the solder would be covering. Finally, even if the weld creates a small hole, it's not nearly as big as the hole that is drilled for the contact strip. However, this soldering method will an provide adequate connection without damaging the battery, but only if the soldering iron is *hot* enough to melt the solder quickly. Longer application of a less hot iron can cause damage. What you're saying about roughening the surface areas for the solder to stick to does make sense.
Точечная сварка быстро но надо четко чувствовать границы Недогрев плохой контакт Перегрев повреждение корпуса ячейки. Металл всего 0,2 мм У пайки пятно контакта намного больше. Флюс нужен нейтральный и припой низкотемпературный. Я добавлял сплав розе и сразу охлаждал место пайки
Whatever method, this is not for beginners. It needs to be done quickly and correctly to avoid cell damage and worst case a fire. It's probably a good idea to have window to safely toss the batteries out into the garden or a sand filled metal bucket just in case. Call me paranoid.
Идея отличная (чот я сам не додумался) только одно НО! - флюс смывать надо! Иначе разъест металл и проводника и батареи! Сам об это обжигался в начале. Смывать с аккумов надо спиртом и ещё "капать" на "плюс" надо буквально смочив зубочистку. Что бы он не затёк куда не надо.
Паял многожильным медным проводом, канифолью не паяется, а мокал жало паяльника на таблетку простого аспирина - всё паяется и да, аспирин это кислота, наверное надо промыть, скорее, осторожно смочить, раствором пищевой соды. Паяльник 40 Вт. Косание - до (!) 3-х сек.! Мира всем!
@@russuoctavian8568 fajnie się wdycha opary z topiącej się aspiryny. ale groty czyści wspaniale, lepiej używać specjalnych produktów do czyszczenia grotów, tzn do chemicznego czyszczenia utlenionych grotów. ma je w ofercie RESA, WELLER, JBC, chinskie firmy, japoński GOOT i firmy amerykańskie.
You can solder cells without damaging them, you use a hot soldering iron and don't let it sit in one spot for very long, I have soldered cells that have got warmer in use than what they do with soldering them. I do have a spot welder, but there are times when you need to solder. I like this guy's trick but I also lightly sand the area where the solder will be on the strip and cells, it might not be needed but it can't hurt and I am never against overkill if it produces better results.
I used to do solder on lithium cells... luckily i have bought a spot welder... faster and more safe... really good trick if you don't have a spot welder 👍
I did that too. I had to solder two NiMh batteries together and I don't have a spot welder. I roughened the surface with sand paper. Then add flux and set the soldering iron to 400°C. This allows the tin to be heated quickly and the soldering iron to be removed quickly. Always let it cool down. Then solder the tinned cable, quickly and hot. Do not solder cold and for a long time. Always quickly and then cool down
yeah and if it doesn't want to stick dont keep working on the same battery, try it, if it fails, wait so the battery can cool off because I have tried it and it could have sat there all day and just not working, the reason you shouldn't solder them is the heat. but if you do it quickly it wont heat the battery.
NEVER solder directly on a Li-ion battery. Damage guarantueed. Spow Welding is a MUST. They're cheap on ali now and you can use a car battery. that's all you need really. If you want a fancy spotwelder that's even better of course, with safeties and such.
I think he will never say it so as not to lose the LIKES and VIEWS. Many youtubers tend to do that (because with the comments they feel they win). When the video is like this, I don't give it any Like. And watching it is already a real trap, because they also win by making you look curiously at what the video presents in the thumbnail.
@kentaltobelli1840 thanks for the useless comment. Since I don't know anything. I've only seen flux as a paste. Didn't know it came in liquid form. Thank you for the info.
I don't have a spot welding tool. I clean both sides and either sand paper to scratch surface or use a sharp blade to score/scratch lines onto terminals test the soldering guns temp if solder melts it's at max temp. Drill holes into the metal tabs add some solder to all surfaces. Then solder tabs to the terminals. The pre solder will flow immediately. Use a high speed fan until surfaces are cool to touch.
Надеюсь это не кислота! Лучше использовать специальный безотмывочный флюс, пользуюсь NC-559-ASM, прекрасно паяет никелированную ленту. А при пайке кислотой потом может буть много проблем в связи с окислением металла. А вот идея с отверстием хорошая, я просто наношу припой с двух сторон ленты и это позволяет быстро распределить тепло и припаять её.
TQ. Great idea. No, the heat won't damage the battery due to the short durations required to solder (pre-tin). More ic's components gets destroyed from soldering heat. No, the soldering solution is not corrosive vs standard soldering paste because it is a new type of wet solution base that evaporates with no corrosive residue (like alcohol eveporation with no residue left-over). Available from Amazon, Lazada, any online shopping... search soldering paste.
@@R.B_B it's right I front of me right now. No smell, like water, leaves zero stain on the stainless steel plate after leaving it to dry, no smoke,no fume, no smell when applying the hot solder on it... and it is super great; apply and wet the area to be apply with hot solder with just a tiny bit and the solder simply flow and spread flat and becomes part of the metal/copper, etc. Using the best German made expensive flux to solder was only half as good.
I have been soldering circuits boards, soldering lots of DIY stuffs and in the business of electronics for 50 years (retired now but still passionate about all things DIY and still soldering all kinds of stuffs)... whatever this clear, colourless liquid with no smell, no fumes is the best thing I have come across...just apply a little on any reasonable clean surface and solder flow, stick and spread the metal surface; superduper.
@@kohkhoon5396 widze, że jesteś pasjonatem elektroniki i lutowania, powiedz czy ten cudowny płyn umożliwi lutowanie cyną elementów ze stali nierdzewnej INOX?
@@dariuszhebda3062Over the years, soldering on stainless steel, steel, or any metal strips, plates is a real pain in the neck. You can scrub them, sandpaper them clean, wipe with alcohol, apply flux/paste (except for expensive high quality German's made flux/paste)... getting any types/brand of solder to spread/flow smoothly on stainless steal surface of strips, plates is very difficult and the solder are clustered and lumpy on the material surface... after using/applying this made in china: "unknow colourless, no smell, no fume, liquid, no stains, no residues on the soldered surface" ... it was amazing the hotbsolder instantly and smoothly flow FLAT on the surface of the 18650 Li-ion Battery Nickel Sheet Plate and nickel-plated steel belt strip... super.
Любой подходящий флюс,мощный паяльник,кусок провода.Паяем быстро сильно нагретым паяльником.А дальше хочешь мой чем хочешь.Всегда так делаю и не заморачиваюсь.Проколов не было.Главное уметь паять.
need to be careful, I once accidentally dropped one small soldering remain/ball into the slot on the postive side of battery and caused short, battery became very hot.
@josepeixoto3384 I belong to a group that make nightvision cameras and a few has stupidly busted the battery. Decent protection to be worn including eyes.
@@josepeixoto3384 Литию нельзя допускать контакта с водой. При попадании воды в батарею литий воспламеняется ещё сильнее. Надо ведро с песком ставить рядом. Даже на открытом воздухе литий может воспламениться.
Complete spot welders is very cheap, you can buy it start from 18 eur, and it's allredy working models inc battery's and everything... so its much safer and you can be sure not destroying your project elements...
Soldering creates 200 degree heat on surface. 60 degree transfers inside if you don't exceeds 3-5 seconds touch. Lithium explodes in between 60-200 degree depends on its new or tired chemical. That's why soldering is a gamble.
When drilling through thin sheet metal, it's better to use a simple jig by pre-drilling holes in a piece of wood or metal and clamping the sheet metal underneath. This allows for more accurate, consistent, and cleaner holes. ..but spot welding is faster and the way to go.
2 10G copper cables sharpened to a point and a 12V battery. lay nickle strip on battery top and use one to press hard and the other to touch next to it and it will spot weld it with a spark or a glow.
For those who do not have a spot welding tool, Cool your batteries with a cloth that has ice in it. dab the top immediately on the ice and hold it for a few seconds, and dont solder for long. I've done a few and ive failed a few. All the times I failed, I didnt keep the battery cool.
Обычно в качестве флюса в таких случаях используют так называемую Паяльную кислоту. Химическая формула - Хлорид цинка, водный раствор. Его можно легко сделать самому. В стеклянную ёмкость надо положить кусочки металлического цинка и залить соляной кислотой. Начнётся реакция растворения цинка в кислоте с выделением пузырьков газа водорода. Поэтому это надо делать в проветриваемом месте. Когда процесс закончится и пузырьки перестанут выделяться, слейте полученную жидкость в герметичную ёмкость. Это и есть Ваш флюс! Его можно хранить вечно. Важно! - цинка должно быть с избытком, то есть когда вся кислота иссякнет, цинк должен ещё остаться. Цинк можно взять из корпуса старой марганец-цинковой батарейки, но не из алкалиновой!
In my experience, spot welding gets loose over time, specially if it's being moved around etc. And You need to buy a high end spot welder to get some decent welds. Solder weld holds better and lasts longer and the best part of it is its waaaaayyyyy cheaper by a mile than spot welding.
$15 seems awfully cheap for a spot welder, would you please leave a link to where you got it so I can check it out? I think the last one I looked at that seemed like it was good quality and would do what I needed was like $90. I'd like to see where you found one for that price, thanks.
@@brine80look on utube. Diy spot welder. A transformer and a bit of wire. Really that simple. Ever touch battery cables together, other ends clamped to battery? Spot welder. Later
Dañas la batería con ese tipo de soldadura, agotando la vida útil un 30%. Lo mejor para soldar es con soldadura de punto de contacto, es rápida, limpia, acabado mas estético y se enfría mas rápido que con estaño.
Колхоз конечно дело добровольное, но данный способ годится только для небольших домашних экспериментов. Для серьезных сборок и модернизации, данный вариант так себе затея..) Но в целом, спасибо за ролик, я думаю он многим пригодится.
@viliusstankevicius тем, что лента обеспечивает более плотный контакт, или точнее сказать большая площадь прилегания, что позволяет использовать больший ампераж. Посмотри как устроены фирменные аккумуляторные сборки.
так если ставишь большую каплю припоя - такая же площадь. А провод подбирать нужно по току. Фирменные делают оптом и конвеером, там время актуально. И сварки мощные. Не сравнить производство с домашним столом
@@viliusstankeviciusСогласен, согласен. Ну в целом, я так и говорил, что для домашних сборок пойдет, сам так собирал пару раз) ну там и аккумы были у меня БУшные. Но например если работаешь в сервисе, по ремонту и обслуживанию электроинструмента, то там такая залипуха не пойдет)
Thanks for your answer. Visually, this was not at all clear in your video. You might cut in a shot of the bottle as it's picked up in your hand and insert it before the shot of dripping it on the drilled strip. @@Pulverrostmannen
Ya dont need to drill the nickel strip Just put blob on both sides it sinks the heat better or have to make a contact soldering device use a transformer from old nicad charger rewinded secondary can melt the solder on other side very quickly then ya hold it to cool few seconds 😅😅😅
Applying a soldering iron tip to the outside of a battery will not produce enough/or any heat inside the battery to effect its chemistry. You would have to leave the tip for an incredibly long time as opposed to a few seconds. More heat is produced charging the thing. Now spot welding is so hot you are fusing metals together, that it risks burning through the metals or making tiny holes, allowing gases to pass back and forth.
Soldering was initially invented to fix an already existing proven electrical corrwtc Connection. For example you Twist two cables and than solder it. In this case Shows, the electrical connetion between the Band and the batteries is vage, meaning the bigger Part of All current will go through the soldering Material. This is not made for high currents.
безкислотный флюс ф5 отлично паяет, но и его лучше отмывать. Смывается водой. Чтобы быстро приставало, поверхности нужно зачистить, буквально пара касаний наждаком или ножом.
I used to do something like this back in the day but decided its too dangerous, when putting bare metal tabs against the batteries plastic covering and heating it to melt solder you risk the metal melting though it and shorting the cell.
Put your finger directly on a spot weld as soon as you've done it and tell me how cool it feels. Your comment already tells me you've never spot welded anything before.
If you need to solder them, Tin both sides of the nickel strip and the batteries. Use lots of soldering flux. Be quick - Just a few seconds. Practice on dead cells.
Dude, it doesn't matter what the material is, because it's only used to make the nickel strip stick to the battery. The heat will still destroy the battery.
Well just be careful. Those microwave transformers aren’t something to fuck around with if you aren’t 100% confident and know exactly what you’re doing.
Способ рабочий, но только не для электроинструмента. При снятии большого значения тока, припой начнет плавиться. И никелевая полоска отвалится. Поэтому, на заводе их приваривают.
Давно паяю таким образом. Только не понимаю зачем дырки? Достаточно пролудить ленту и оставить каплю припоя. Потом переворачиваешь ленту с каплей вниз, быстро греешь и чем -нибудь сразу охлаждаешь. Тепло не успевает проникать в батарею если делать мощным паяльником, а не греть пол часа паяльной станцией. И да, для умников: давно изобрели активные индикаторные флюсы которые становятся нейтральными после прогрева, и вымывать начего не нужно. 2 года ездит велосипед с банкой из 40 аккумов спаянных мной таким образом...
bonjour je n'ai pas compris cette video c'est quoi le produit qui sort du flacon de la glue ou un décapeur spécifique et ou peux on en trouver un équivalent ?
On l'appel en general flux mais celui ci est un peu different. İl est Zinc chlorure (ZnCl2) ou Zinc chloride. Tu peux le trover en format poudre. İl faut le diluer dans l'eau
Do NOT solder lithium batteries... You can damage the safety mechanisms internally, like the pressure relief valve, causing catastrophic failure possibilities to go way up. At a minimum for damage, you may melt the internal seals, allowing the electrolyte to dry out. Do it right. Use a spot welder. Hobbiest grade spot welders are not that expensive for the casual DIY user.
No, certainly not. It is a cleaning fluid, that cleans the surface and specifically, lowers the surface tension to enable the liquid tin to wet the battery surface more easily. It should be a non-clean type, that doesn't require to be washed/cleaned after soldering. Some others, more aggressive and acidic types, keep etching into the surface even after soldering. This type should be avoided at all times.
Nickel tape is only necessary if you want to weld. If you solder, you can user copper wire which has lower resistance.
Thanks
Have you tried? Soldering led doesn't stick on this battery, that is why spot welding is best for this.
Yes
@@Offline395 use flux, it will solder. But the heat generated soldering nickle strip is not safe, thats why you plug solder these as its low melt solder to solder.
медный провод нагреется и отпояется
I see several comments that mention scuffing or sanding the surface first. I do believe this would create a better bonding surface as well. I don't own a spot welder yet, until I do I am glad I saw this tip because I have had times where I have to solder new tabs to a battery and don't get good results, I do believe this method of drilling the hole will allow a better hold on the strip/tab. Thanks for showing this, I think its a great alternative idea to spot welding.
EN MI CASO RASPO Y SUELDO RÁPIDAMENTE CON PISTOLA WELLER Y CON SPRAY DE ALCOHOL ENFRÍA QUEDA BIEN NO SE DETERIORA LA BATERÍA
For my office phones, instead of spending $20 per battery pack, I just made my own lithium packs with AA giving them tons more mAh. Sanding works just fine, to create a busbar or just using multistrand wire like I did. Sand, flux, solder to the battery. If it sticks well to the battery, then apply your wire.
I personally would not spotweld, as the temperature spike and high voltage spike can damage the cell, or worse go right through the metal leaving a hole.
if you think that it means you need to study how welding and soldering actually work my friend. they aren't adhesives. surface area is for adhesives. for metals they are bonding. It's a bit complex but suffice to say you need as much surface to surface contact on your joint and that causing scratches actually would decrease that not increase it.
but i might be wrong. maybe it does help.
@@Sim-q9t I do not mean adhesives, when saying if the solder 'sticks' to the ends of the batteries. Battery ends, components, and other metals that are steel/nickel components are polished and often covered with a lacquer, during manufacturing. Just look up a battery makeup. That way they do not rust and corrode super fast.
Hard to get solder to stick.
Sanding it down increase surface area and gets the metal exposed enough to take the flux, then solder. The solder then makes a conductive 'pad' to which you can then solder a wire to it.
When putting in modchips in consoles, there are some components on the board, you HAVE to take a emery board to, just to get the solder to stick.- because of the coatings. Also same with 26,28g beadsmith wire, that needs to be scraped to remove the coatings before soldering.
Soldering, unlike welding.. the metals are actually only touching the conductive solder, but getting the solder to 'stick' is the first step. You are not actually 'fusing' two metals together.
@@rwhite9994 No volts or current can go thru the battery because the only path available for electrons is thru the spots where the metals connect. Not even a large spike can go into the battery... it's not like static electricity.
And since it heats such a tiny area, it's not warming the spot for as long, or for as hugely wide an area that the solder would be covering.
Finally, even if the weld creates a small hole, it's not nearly as big as the hole that is drilled for the contact strip.
However, this soldering method will an provide adequate connection without damaging the battery, but only if the soldering iron is *hot* enough to melt the solder quickly. Longer application of a less hot iron can cause damage.
What you're saying about roughening the surface areas for the solder to stick to does make sense.
Spotwelding. Safer and faster. But this idea is still clever if your only option is soldering.
Точечная сварка быстро но надо четко чувствовать границы
Недогрев плохой контакт
Перегрев повреждение корпуса ячейки. Металл всего 0,2 мм
У пайки пятно контакта намного больше. Флюс нужен нейтральный и припой низкотемпературный. Я добавлял сплав розе и сразу охлаждал место пайки
@@DenisKorablev13 пятно контакта достигается за счет множества точек. И да, сварочные аппараты нужно ведь продавать както
its not realy safer, if you use unsafe spotwelder
Whatever method, this is not for beginners. It needs to be done quickly and correctly to avoid cell damage and worst case a fire. It's probably a good idea to have window to safely toss the batteries out into the garden or a sand filled metal bucket just in case. Call me paranoid.
@@mekkertroniker2002
На FePO4 ячейках делают винтовые соединения.
Это самый безопасный способ подключения
Идея отличная (чот я сам не додумался) только одно НО! - флюс смывать надо! Иначе разъест металл и проводника и батареи!
Сам об это обжигался в начале.
Смывать с аккумов надо спиртом и ещё "капать" на "плюс" надо буквально смочив зубочистку. Что бы он не затёк куда не надо.
Паял многожильным медным проводом, канифолью не паяется, а мокал жало паяльника на таблетку простого аспирина - всё паяется и да, аспирин это кислота, наверное надо промыть, скорее, осторожно смочить, раствором пищевой соды. Паяльник 40 Вт. Косание - до (!) 3-х сек.! Мира всем!
@@russuoctavian8568 fajnie się wdycha opary z topiącej się aspiryny. ale groty czyści wspaniale, lepiej używać specjalnych produktów do czyszczenia grotów, tzn do chemicznego czyszczenia utlenionych grotów. ma je w ofercie RESA, WELLER, JBC, chinskie firmy, japoński GOOT i firmy amerykańskie.
Ага, кислота это жопа, смывать содой раствором
حثرلحقامثذمق
حقحقدنبذوقذخب
You can solder cells without damaging them, you use a hot soldering iron and don't let it sit in one spot for very long, I have soldered cells that have got warmer in use than what they do with soldering them. I do have a spot welder, but there are times when you need to solder.
I like this guy's trick but I also lightly sand the area where the solder will be on the strip and cells, it might not be needed but it can't hurt and I am never against overkill if it produces better results.
I used to do solder on lithium cells... luckily i have bought a spot welder... faster and more safe... really good trick if you don't have a spot welder 👍
Podaj proszę nazwę Twojej zgrzewarki. Ja miałem już 3, które zgrzewały świetnie dwie taśmy. Ale żadna nie dawała rady połączyć taśmy z ogniwem.
@@piotrrogowiec9199kWeld is one of the best. It is very well built and I’ve never had any problems.
I did that too. I had to solder two NiMh batteries together and I don't have a spot welder.
I roughened the surface with sand paper.
Then add flux and set the soldering iron to 400°C.
This allows the tin to be heated quickly and the soldering iron to be removed quickly.
Always let it cool down.
Then solder the tinned cable, quickly and hot. Do not solder cold and for a long time.
Always quickly and then cool down
yeah and if it doesn't want to stick dont keep working on the same battery, try it, if it fails, wait so the battery can cool off because I have tried it and it could have sat there all day and just not working, the reason you shouldn't solder them is the heat. but if you do it quickly it wont heat the battery.
I just scratched the top of the battery and then solder sticks easily
NEVER solder directly on a Li-ion battery. Damage guarantueed. Spow Welding is a MUST. They're cheap on ali now and you can use a car battery. that's all you need really. If you want a fancy spotwelder that's even better of course, with safeties and such.
soldering heats the battery too much and damages it, spot welding is the only solution
No solder it quickly@@paulmichaelfreedman8334
No it won't, you can't solder aluminum unless you use an aggressive flux solution which this guy did here
@@paulmichaelfreedman8334Good luck on your 5th or 6th welding with your car battery 😂
Really like this idea. What is the fluid used?
I think he will never say it so as not to lose the LIKES and VIEWS. Many youtubers tend to do that (because with the comments they feel they win).
When the video is like this, I don't give it any Like. And watching it is already a real trap, because they also win by making you look curiously at what the video presents in the thumbnail.
Thank you for the useless comment. I would guess flux?
@kentaltobelli1840 thanks for the useless comment. Since I don't know anything. I've only seen flux as a paste. Didn't know it came in liquid form. Thank you for the info.
phosphoric acid, borax or sodium borate
I don't have a spot welding tool. I clean both sides and either sand paper to scratch surface or use a sharp blade to score/scratch lines onto terminals test the soldering guns temp if solder melts it's at max temp. Drill holes into the metal tabs add some solder to all surfaces. Then solder tabs to the terminals. The pre solder will flow immediately. Use a high speed fan until surfaces are cool to touch.
Bueno días colega excelente trabajo saludos desde Argentina
Надеюсь это не кислота! Лучше использовать специальный безотмывочный флюс, пользуюсь NC-559-ASM, прекрасно паяет никелированную ленту. А при пайке кислотой потом может буть много проблем в связи с окислением металла. А вот идея с отверстием хорошая, я просто наношу припой с двух сторон ленты и это позволяет быстро распределить тепло и припаять её.
NC-559-ASM
Если паять,то использовать логичнее, медную фольгу. А флюс наносить, ушным тампоном, смоченным флюсом.
TQ. Great idea. No, the heat won't damage the battery due to the short durations required to solder (pre-tin). More ic's components gets destroyed from soldering heat. No, the soldering solution is not corrosive vs standard soldering paste because it is a new type of wet solution base that evaporates with no corrosive residue (like alcohol eveporation with no residue left-over). Available from Amazon, Lazada, any online shopping... search soldering paste.
This solution is an acid?
@@R.B_B it's right I front of me right now. No smell, like water, leaves zero stain on the stainless steel plate after leaving it to dry, no smoke,no fume, no smell when applying the hot solder on it... and it is super great; apply and wet the area to be apply with hot solder with just a tiny bit and the solder simply flow and spread flat and becomes part of the metal/copper, etc. Using the best German made expensive flux to solder was only half as good.
I have been soldering circuits boards, soldering lots of DIY stuffs and in the business of electronics for 50 years (retired now but still passionate about all things DIY and still soldering all kinds of stuffs)... whatever this clear, colourless liquid with no smell, no fumes is the best thing I have come across...just apply a little on any reasonable clean surface and solder flow, stick and spread the metal surface; superduper.
@@kohkhoon5396 widze, że jesteś pasjonatem elektroniki i lutowania, powiedz czy ten cudowny płyn umożliwi lutowanie cyną elementów ze stali nierdzewnej INOX?
@@dariuszhebda3062Over the years, soldering on stainless steel, steel, or any metal strips, plates is a real pain in the neck. You can scrub them, sandpaper them clean, wipe with alcohol, apply flux/paste (except for expensive high quality German's made flux/paste)... getting any types/brand of solder to spread/flow smoothly on stainless steal surface of strips, plates is very difficult and the solder are clustered and lumpy on the material surface... after using/applying this made in china: "unknow colourless, no smell, no fume, liquid, no stains, no residues on the soldered surface" ... it was amazing the hotbsolder instantly and smoothly flow FLAT on the surface of the 18650 Li-ion Battery Nickel Sheet Plate and nickel-plated steel belt strip... super.
Любой подходящий флюс,мощный паяльник,кусок провода.Паяем быстро сильно нагретым паяльником.А дальше хочешь мой чем хочешь.Всегда так делаю и не заморачиваюсь.Проколов не было.Главное уметь паять.
I haven't got a spot welder,so I'll try this method for soldering some contacts on a gumstick battery for a cybiko extreme.thanks❤❤
its a great trick. what metal is that youre soldering to the battery?
Usually nickel strips. Sometimes people use nickel plated steel strips, but they’re not recommended.
Повезло, что лента не проплавила изоляцию до минуса. Для этого есть картонные колечки, что бы обезопасить этот участок.
Зачем вообще лента?
Чем медный провод плох?
@viliusstankevicius компактность
I need to add a bit of a nib to the positive terminal of an 18650 cell. Is the clear liquid being put down flux?
need to be careful, I once accidentally dropped one small soldering remain/ball into the slot on the postive side of battery and caused short, battery became very hot.
always have a safe place to throw it, some keep a water bucket full by the side
@josepeixoto3384 I belong to a group that make nightvision cameras and a few has stupidly busted the battery. Decent protection to be worn including eyes.
@@josepeixoto3384 🤦♀️ wiadro z wodą jest super do gaszenia baterii
@@josepeixoto3384 Литию нельзя допускать контакта с водой. При попадании воды в батарею литий воспламеняется ещё сильнее.
Надо ведро с песком ставить рядом.
Даже на открытом воздухе литий может воспламениться.
@@wwaldespoważnie mówisz ?
No queda claro el liquido que utilizaste, que es, y como se comprá la placa, gracias
ese liquido es fundente de soldadura
va por varios nombres, tambien se le dice pasta para soldar o soldering paste si te pones exquisito
ja pierdole, to są wydzieliny z cipki suki pawiana
Chamam de gota mágica. É um liquido que ajuda a usar estanho para soldar alumínio, latão e cobre.
Ma è trasparente.. noi in Italia usiamo una pasta..
Complete spot welders is very cheap, you can buy it start from 18 eur, and it's allredy working models inc battery's and everything... so its much safer and you can be sure not destroying your project elements...
Soldering creates 200 degree heat on surface. 60 degree transfers inside if you don't exceeds 3-5 seconds touch. Lithium explodes in between 60-200 degree depends on its new or tired chemical. That's why soldering is a gamble.
When drilling through thin sheet metal, it's better to use a simple jig by pre-drilling holes in a piece of wood or metal and clamping the sheet metal underneath. This allows for more accurate, consistent, and cleaner holes.
..but spot welding is faster and the way to go.
That's actually an excellent idea
Nice video.
What I don't like:
Giving a heart instead of an answer to a question. Silly.
all i see is a good proposal. excellent.
what liquid you are using as soldering paste
Water ;)
Water???
Good job congratulations
2 10G copper cables sharpened to a point and a 12V battery. lay nickle strip on battery top and use one to press hard and the other to touch next to it and it will spot weld it with a spark or a glow.
For those who do not have a spot welding tool, Cool your batteries with a cloth that has ice in it. dab the top immediately on the ice and hold it for a few seconds, and dont solder for long. I've done a few and ive failed a few. All the times I failed, I didnt keep the battery cool.
Супер и не надо как за пол аккумулятора платить за сварку ! Только аккуратно !!! Очень
Прекрасно паяется и без сверления, через ленту, только нормальным паяльником и оловом с флюсом, быстро без перегрева.
Зачем вообще лента?
Чем медный провод плох?
this is a very good trick !
What type of liquid was used before soldering? It's a waste of time if you don't state the liquid.
It's called Flux
It's magic-liquid! 🎉😂
Обычно в качестве флюса в таких случаях используют так называемую Паяльную кислоту. Химическая формула - Хлорид цинка, водный раствор.
Его можно легко сделать самому. В стеклянную ёмкость надо положить кусочки металлического цинка и залить соляной кислотой. Начнётся реакция растворения цинка в кислоте с выделением пузырьков газа водорода. Поэтому это надо делать в проветриваемом месте. Когда процесс закончится и пузырьки перестанут выделяться, слейте полученную жидкость в герметичную ёмкость. Это и есть Ваш флюс! Его можно хранить вечно. Важно! - цинка должно быть с избытком, то есть когда вся кислота иссякнет, цинк должен ещё остаться. Цинк можно взять из корпуса старой марганец-цинковой батарейки, но не из алкалиновой!
In my experience, spot welding gets loose over time, specially if it's being moved around etc. And You need to buy a high end spot welder to get some decent welds. Solder weld holds better and lasts longer and the best part of it is its waaaaayyyyy cheaper by a mile than spot welding.
If your cells are moving around a lot, then you did a bad job building a pack. They shouldn’t move an inch.
@@mistersalesman4015 if thats what you understood, then you did bad job reading my comment
What is the name of flux ?
o melhor e o acido fosfórico (H3PO4).
Commonly known as 'Baker's Soldering Fluid No3'
@@donmariovasco4452 फास्फोरिक एसिड ?
Quand vous faites des vidéos, soyez complets , donnez toutes les informations .. sinon ça ne sert à rien.
Ok.
It's very useful lol
I don't make batteries ,yet but I bought myself spot welder for like 15 bucks it's really good
$15 seems awfully cheap for a spot welder, would you please leave a link to where you got it so I can check it out? I think the last one I looked at that seemed like it was good quality and would do what I needed was like $90. I'd like to see where you found one for that price, thanks.
@@brine80look on utube. Diy spot welder. A transformer and a bit of wire. Really that simple. Ever touch battery cables together, other ends clamped to battery? Spot welder. Later
ใช้น้ำยาอะไรผสมกับตะกั่วครับ
👍✨✨💯 i like the way you did that
Капитан очевидность )))!
А насчёт смывки флюса или его минимального количества в комментариях ниже полностью согласен )!
Dañas la batería con ese tipo de soldadura, agotando la vida útil un 30%. Lo mejor para soldar es con soldadura de punto de contacto, es rápida, limpia, acabado mas estético y se enfría mas rápido que con estaño.
making holle in this way is very danderous,the drill can pick the metalshet ant torn aroud ...leave you without fingers
Колхоз конечно дело добровольное, но данный способ годится только для небольших домашних экспериментов. Для серьезных сборок и модернизации, данный вариант так себе затея..) Но в целом, спасибо за ролик, я думаю он многим пригодится.
Зачем вообще лента?
Чем медный провод плох?
@viliusstankevicius тем, что лента обеспечивает более плотный контакт, или точнее сказать большая площадь прилегания, что позволяет использовать больший ампераж. Посмотри как устроены фирменные аккумуляторные сборки.
так если ставишь большую каплю припоя - такая же площадь.
А провод подбирать нужно по току.
Фирменные делают оптом и конвеером, там время актуально. И сварки мощные. Не сравнить производство с домашним столом
@@viliusstankeviciusСогласен, согласен. Ну в целом, я так и говорил, что для домашних сборок пойдет, сам так собирал пару раз) ну там и аккумы были у меня БУшные. Но например если работаешь в сервисе, по ремонту и обслуживанию электроинструмента, то там такая залипуха не пойдет)
По рукам таким мастерам! Точечная сварка 2р стоит.
За 2 КИЛО р купишь фейковое говно, которое 0.1мм не варит.
Более менее норм стоит от 10000р
Useful video for me as I don't have spotwelding machine.
What is liquid you apply?
Flux
What is the name of this medicine?
What did you drop (water?) on the plat and top of the batterry..
Boa idéia! Quebra o galho para quem não tem a famosa maquininha de solda ponto.
What is the liquid they used?
Flux, I use Rosin for this
Thanks for your answer. Visually, this was not at all clear in your video. You might cut in a shot of the bottle as it's picked up in your hand and insert it before the shot of dripping it on the drilled strip. @@Pulverrostmannen
@@charonjr1701 I would if this was my video lol
what is that liquid you add on? flux?
Creative, thanks :)
Ya dont need to drill the nickel strip
Just put blob on both sides it sinks the heat better or have to make a contact soldering device use a transformer from old nicad charger rewinded secondary can melt the solder on other side very quickly then ya hold it to cool few seconds 😅😅😅
Bro Can you tell me the name of the cream?
Soldering loson
Never solder on li-ion battery, heat will damage internal cells, use battery slots or spot welding.
Applying a soldering iron tip to the outside of a battery will not produce enough/or any heat inside the battery to effect its chemistry. You would have to leave the tip for an incredibly long time as opposed to a few seconds. More heat is produced charging the thing.
Now spot welding is so hot you are fusing metals together, that it risks burning through the metals or making tiny holes, allowing gases to pass back and forth.
What type of solder do you use fella. Peace v
Try with bismuth, you can solder below 150*C, some of them have melting point around 50*C
@@vladdumitrica849 Nice to know Sir and thank you too. Peace vf
What paste are you using?
અત્યારે બનાર માં ઇન્જેક્શન જેવા મળી જશે એ ઉપયોગ કરો થઈ જશે
@@ANISH7712 ты с луны свалился чтоли ?
Soldering was initially invented to fix an already existing proven electrical corrwtc Connection. For example you Twist two cables and than solder it. In this case Shows, the electrical connetion between the Band and the batteries is vage, meaning the bigger Part of All current will go through the soldering Material. This is not made for high currents.
Кислота сделает своё дело за пару месяцев. Ок плюс припаял, давай теперь минус таким же способом и тем же паяльником!)
безкислотный флюс ф5 отлично паяет, но и его лучше отмывать. Смывается водой. Чтобы быстро приставало, поверхности нужно зачистить, буквально пара касаний наждаком или ножом.
Che liquido usi per saldare sulle batterie ?grazie
А если использовать вместо флюса канифоль? Не лучше ли будет?
Я вообще обычным изолированым проводом припаиваю, залудив концы,быстро ,без перегрева, работают годами уже, никаких проблем !
Да, я тож думаю - зачем вообще лента?
Чем медный провод плох?
I used to do something like this back in the day but decided its too dangerous, when putting bare metal tabs against the batteries plastic covering and heating it to melt solder you risk the metal melting though it and shorting the cell.
Use copper wire will improve battery poach performance over then standard strips
Лучше всего взять обычную ортофосфорную кислоту. Но ее надо потом тщательно смыть.
need to flush properly after use or else it would rust the battery.. i had this problem before!
the solution is corrosive to metals
As always, its best to spot weld properly. But if the method shown here is done fast enough, then it might be safe enough 🤔
Plastic parts inside the battery might be heated to hot cause damage to the battery. You should spot weld instead.
You say whaaaaa?
Put your finger directly on a spot weld as soon as you've done it and tell me how cool it feels. Your comment already tells me you've never spot welded anything before.
If you need to solder them, Tin both sides of the nickel strip and the batteries. Use lots of soldering flux. Be quick - Just a few seconds.
Practice on dead cells.
que le echa. la durita ? o pegadit? agricolato?
Great idea!
Good job bro....What is the name of the material that you put it??
Bro it was a question!!!! I don't need a like..is it Flux??
Dude, it doesn't matter what the material is, because it's only used to make the nickel strip stick to the battery. The heat will still destroy the battery.
@@voice552 thanks man🙏
@@voice552nope.. cause the soldering works much faster there is no danger
What is that glue? Where to find them?
What is the name of the flux used please :)
I have not torn apart my microwave oven yet to DIY a spot welder. So maybe this be good alternative.
Well just be careful. Those microwave transformers aren’t something to fuck around with if you aren’t 100% confident and know exactly what you’re doing.
Способ рабочий, но только не для электроинструмента. При снятии большого значения тока, припой начнет плавиться. И никелевая полоска отвалится. Поэтому, на заводе их приваривают.
What liquid name?
Merhaba dökmüş olduğunuz malzeme nedir?
Merhaba, az miktarda çinkoyu birkaç damla %50 hcl ile karıştırın ve çözülmesi için 30 dakika açık havada bırakın, zehirli dumanlara dikkat edin
@@ebiramcivil4844 merhaba o malzemeleri nereden temin edebilirim birde zehirli olur demişsiniz zararı var mı o zehirin
o melhor e o acido fosfórico (H3PO4).
Until the first thime there is a heavy draw ant the battery gets hot enough to melt solder this is why welding is used
Very good IDEA! THANKS A LOT!
Welcome!
This just saved me so much time 🙏🏻
Yo uso acido sitrico para sordarlas es muy efectivo
Que produto é esse que vc usa?😮
¿ Q GOTAS LE ECHAN ANTES DE SOLDAR?
Does it work on mobile battery circuit?
Yes.
Давно паяю таким образом. Только не понимаю зачем дырки? Достаточно пролудить ленту и оставить каплю припоя. Потом переворачиваешь ленту с каплей вниз, быстро греешь и чем -нибудь сразу охлаждаешь. Тепло не успевает проникать в батарею если делать мощным паяльником, а не греть пол часа паяльной станцией. И да, для умников: давно изобрели активные индикаторные флюсы которые становятся нейтральными после прогрева, и вымывать начего не нужно. 2 года ездит велосипед с банкой из 40 аккумов спаянных мной таким образом...
Типа, лучше держится.
Какой конкретно флюс, модель, название? Мне какраз нужно, буду искать
Since you didn't specify what type of flux this is , I'm going to try with alteco glue
Xít nước gì trước khi hàn vậy bạn
bonjour je n'ai pas compris cette video c'est quoi le produit qui sort du flacon de la glue ou un décapeur spécifique et ou peux on en trouver un équivalent ?
Ils Appell Flux ' il suffit de chercher sur Internet.
On l'appel en general flux mais celui ci est un peu different. İl est Zinc chlorure (ZnCl2) ou Zinc chloride. Tu peux le trover en format poudre. İl faut le diluer dans l'eau
Spot welding is much faster and more reliable, but takes a little nerve i guess.
Soldering could damage the Battery. Overheating isn't good for Lithium batteries. This could reduce the capacity.
Bro can you tell me how to discharge a lithium battery
What's liquid sir,???????!!
спасибо. Как раз такая задача стоит
А к минусу как? Тоже припаять?
Аналогично. Главное не перегревать. Но проще купить точечную сварку. Они на Али , если брать ту что попроще, достаточно дешевые.
Como se llama ese liquido ?
Do NOT solder lithium batteries...
You can damage the safety mechanisms internally, like the pressure relief valve, causing catastrophic failure possibilities to go way up.
At a minimum for damage, you may melt the internal seals, allowing the electrolyte to dry out.
Do it right. Use a spot welder. Hobbiest grade spot welders are not that expensive for the casual DIY user.
a solda ponto gera muito mais calor e não danifica.
@@luizalves7671 Higher heat for a *much* shorter period of time, and in a a tiny surface area.
is that euperglue?
No, certainly not. It is a cleaning fluid, that cleans the surface and specifically, lowers the surface tension to enable the liquid tin to wet the battery surface more easily.
It should be a non-clean type, that doesn't require to be washed/cleaned after soldering. Some others, more aggressive and acidic types, keep etching into the surface even after soldering. This type should be avoided at all times.