About two weeks ago, I bought the tool you make and followed your instructions, used a light weight hammer with fast taps, and the pushrod came flying out of the head in two seconds. Put it back together installed a DOD disabler, the truck is running great. Thank you! 1 out of 10 highly recommend.
You can actually call this guy up and talk to him, I did, he seems to be straight up and friendly, and fair prices. I wish he was in east Texas, my dads dealership would keep him busy.
LOVE your videos and your intelligence! Thank you for sharing all of the step-by-steps. A mechanic took me for about a 13k ride last year on my Tahoe and I was determined to learn how to fix it all myself as I'm going through the courts to try and retrieve some of my money back... You have helped this girl out so much as I learn! Thank you, again!
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair ooooh, there has been many days when I wrap up with that darn thing I've thought about pushing it off into the darn lake... But, when the weather cooperates, I'm back at it again. Ive learned alot along the way, but as of right now cylinder#7 intake lifter has me furious. I replaced all of the lifters about 4mo ago and here I am.. Last week while driving I heard an odd slight knock then the annoying light tap. Brought it home, pulled the valve cover, rod looks good, put a telescopic magnet down and was able to pull up the lifter, so it's not stuck, but the rocker has the play.. So, it's collapsed... But how? Do you suggest I try the carb cleaner in there or should I just go ahead and tear it all back down and replace the lifter? I'd be bringing it on over to CPR if only the Carolinas weren't so far away... Thank you for all of your time you put in to helping out those not so mechanically inclined, like myself.
@@d.w.2553 I would attempt my tap trick first but be sure to educate yourself on how the system works most important key notes are in my most recent ua-cam.com/video/628gz05Vy9Q/v-deo.html use that to find out what other videos may help you get it fixed. the job looks intimidating but its not all that bad. Take your time and use my videos to guide you through it. You got this!!! If needed feel free to contact me :)
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thank you for all of your replies... The weather is finally cooperating today.. However, my injector clips hate me today. Going to attempt your tap trick in a bit, just needed to walk away from those darn stuck clips for a minute before I set the whole thing up in flames blahhhh...
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair All torn down and ready to attempt this, but, as I'm waiting on this rain to subside before I give it a go, I managed to sand down one of the rods I replaced a couple of months ago, enough to fit down in there, but is there a right vs wrong as far as the way the indent is on the cut end that I drop in? I mean, if it can go wrong, it probably will with the darn luck I have had with this darn Tahoe.. THANK YOU for any and all of your insight!
First and foremost..... Thank you so much for the great videos!! I just want to share my current experience so hopefully somewhere down the road it will help others. I just ordered your tool and oil plug for my 2007 5.3. 2 months ago I purchased a truck from a guy I work with that had a DOD fail on Cyl 1. I tore the truck down replaced all the lifters etc... long story short 3 weeks ago had a DOD failure on cyl 6 + 7 exhaust valves. (I used an OBD plug in DOD delete tuner, when at a garage for inspection and alignment, they drove it without DOD plugged in, hence the failure.. Brand new lifters UGH!!!!) Towed the truck home got the lifters free by prying up slightly with a flat head screw driver between the rocker arm and valve or so I thought. Though both rockers "popped" right back in place (so I thought) So I purchased a Diablo tuner to turn DOD off permanently.. here is where the headaches began, I kept getting a P0300-00 code. Diagnosis showed that it was on cyl 6 though not enough to set that code. What I eventually found was though the cyl 6 lifter had popped into place, there was very slight "spring tension" movement still. Push down hard on the rocker arm where it meets the push rod to ensure there is NO SPRING TENSION.... just solid lock with no movement. As in this video, it is important to ensure you get that "rock solid" lock feel once a lifter has reset. Or you could have the headaches I am having. I just ordered your tool and plug, hopefully I can reset the lifter properly using this video method as I am not looking forward to redoing this lifter job again...Wish me luck, I hope this experience helps someone else.
Thanks for all your videos on the DOD stuck lifter. Fixed my truck this evening... Cylinder 6 failed for me. Made a tool out of brass and worked perfectly. Won't damage the lifter.... Now to watch mod videos on valley plate mods Rick
Thank you so much for this video. I recently purchased 1998 p-30 truck chassis with a 454 vortec gen 6 engine. After watching your vid I am sure it has at least 1 stuck lifter. The oil was sludge. The oil pump may also be plugged as I have no oil in the top end on either side. The biggest problem is the fact that this is a 35' class A motorhome. I have discovered that no one in Denver will touch a motorhome!!! Even a GMC dealership that sells motorhomes refused to look at it. I am going to do it myself and think you may have saved my motorhome. Would have had to junk it. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Dan Young Denver. CO
I highly doubt this trick will apply to your motorhome. As far as I'm aware not only are they not equipped with AFM but they are a completely different block.
Quick question, I try this on a Chevy suburban 2008 and it works, but when I drove it the noise came back, I wait for 1 to 2 hours and the truck starts good I drove it again and the noise persists. What do you think it could be?
Currently having a intermittent misfire on a 2015 silverado 5.3 #4 cylinder I’m going to pull the valve cover this evening and check for a collapsed lifter. Will this process work on my year make and model?
i'm hoping mine is just a collapsed lifter. It has a pretty good knock and I have no time and even less money. I ordered your tool and plug. We will see. The shop told me $7000 to fix but I have little faith in them. I have a misfire but other than that the truck runs smooth and uses no oil. Thanks for your hard work and honesty.
I have a 2010 Cadillac Escalade ESV with AFM (Garbage) I was wondering does the lifter trick works on the 6.2L Engine as well as the 5.3L . I am misfiring on cylinder 6 which is AFM lifter?
Questions: - If I have a range technology AFM disabler already, can I use that instead of the tune? I ordered the disabler and then my lifter collapsed. I want to get the full tune but I'm on a time crunch as I'm supposed to move soon.
Awesome video and a good tip...I am a mechanic myself, but never thought of this. Just finished doing some heads on a 2010 with all new lifters and oil sensor filter...still ticking. Going to try this out. Thanks!
Thank you for the information it was really helpful. I did take it apart for like the 4th time only took like 20 minutes this time and looks like looks like the lifter is spun. I inspected the camshaft looks fine. Should I try to replace just a lifter again and the tray and call it gooD OR? I already did the VLOM mod just like you recommended and I can send in the PCM to get it tuned because I am not a mechanic and kind of scared to get into the whole camshaft deal.
Does this apply to the 2014 4.3? Haven’t really seen that this is a problem on the 4.3, but I definitely have a collapsed litter. I have confirmed it. It is lifting the valve about 1/2, it has a 1/4”, so it’s not stuck. I do have a gap under the rocker. It is the front cylinder drivers side. I believe that’s AFM lifter. I have not got into further yet, dreading removing the head. Also I have noticed that there is very little oil coming into the valve Train during operation..
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I am into the teardown now. I have found that the failed lifter is #1 intake, which is not an AFM lifter, on the V6 AFM is the center cylinder. The lifter only comes out of the bore 1/2” and stops. In process of removing cam so I can get it out the bottom. I will delete the AFM lifters now anyway.
Thank you very very much i did it it worked for me!! You saved me a lot of money but i have 1 quastion. Why the oil pressure drop down after releasing the lifter? The oil pressure in my car was stable above the quarter of the guage even if the engine reached normal operating temperature but after releasing the stuck lifter the oil pressure is normal at starting but keep dropping down until reach zero after the engine warm up and reach normal operating temperature.
Releasing the lifter shouldn't cause a drop in oil pressure unless maybe you used a screwdriver to release it and damaged the lifter getting aggressive. Did you do the VLOM modification and tune to turn off the system?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thank very much for your fast response actully i did not do the VLOM MODIFICATION I just released the stuck lifter and i will do it later but i used a tool smiller to your tool angle almost 45° and immediately released i even did not hit it hard.
@@omaralnajjar3081 if the VLOM has a issue and leaks oil pressure through a solenoid it won't help much it won't do you any good. Also hopefully you at least have the system shut off in the tune because if the lifter gets commanded on even once you will be stuck releasing the lifter again.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Got it i will try to tune in after i check the oil pressure drop down becuse it confuses me that the pressure was good now the pressure is dropping down to zero when the engine warm up (like having a worn out camshaft bearing) i will check and give update as soon as possible and thank you very much.
Does it hurt to just throw that screen away under the pressure sensor? I threw mine out a long time ago cause it kept clogging and reading low. But now I have a stuck lifter a year later
Yes, if the system is still in use. All that debris ends up stuck in the VLOM, you will need to release the lifter and do my VLOM mod along with a tune to disable AFM. I show all of this here ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html the tune can be done by lt1swap.com
Did it throw code p0521? I changed my pressure sensor and screen and now that code comes up.. Before that, there was no reading on the dash and after putting in a new sensor/screen; its reads that codes comes up still.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I removed the cover plate. I had misfires on cylinder 7. spark plugs and ignition coil are fine. there is no play in the rocker arm. what am I doing wrong? sorry for my english, google translate. ))
CrazedPerformanceRepair Awesome thanks for the quick response and sharing your wealth of knowledge to help people such as myself save money and become better educated. You’ve been a great help.
I have a 2007 suburban it has traction control on and stability on too I already change coil da cable da spark plugs they told me I had a misfire on cylinder (4) u think it's my lifter got stuck
hi im new in the channel and i fine your videos very helpful so question with this new trick you think i dont need to do the computer modification just doing the push rod trick and the oil pressure sealed im ready to go right (i have the dod with rivets) thanks in advance
I have a 99 chevy silverado 2500 6.0 with a light lifter tap.Did a motor flush,Changed the oil and filter(previous filter was a frame 🤦🏽♂️)and added marvel mystery oil.Lifter tap still exists.Drove about 300 miles changed the oil and filter again(acdelco filter) this time added rislone engine treatment have only driven it about 50 miles but you guessed it lifter tap still exist. oil pressure is between 38-40psi at idle hard acceleration roughly 50-60(never noticed it being that high before)Other than the lifter tap truck runs great(no rough idle or sluggish acceleration) based on your expertise what would you reccomend that I do?
You might have a piston slap or rocker knock. If it is a rocker it could be 1 of 2 things. It could be a worn out push rod rocker combo that the lifter can no longer make up for. It could also be a bad rocker trunion bearing. To find out you will have to pull valve covers and do some actual inspection of things.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Have the valve cover off where the tapping is coming from and upon visual inspection theres gunk everywhere!!! all rockers and valves feel the same dont notice any slack or gapping
I'm dealing with this now with my tahoe 2009 I took it to chevy a year ago got a engine now this year I'd mis firing in 4 so they said I need a vlom I had them do it now they say it's more the vlom didn't do it. I keep telling them I heard a pop noise in the engine. It like they ducking everything to skip past warranty off the engine.
Was there a video where you showed what abs plug is removed temporarily so dod wont activate? Im having it deleted in the tune but i have to drive 5 miles to him
I had a couple of people that doesn't work so if you do my VLOM mod without removing solenoids and leaving it plugged in, it should drive but run like crap if it tries going into 4 cylinder.
My issue was after i parked it a couple days it idles fine now, i want to sell the truck since i just bout a new 19 silverado so my thinking is just have it tuned out so it doesn’t happen again
2011 Chevy Silverado 5.3 no compression on cylinder 1 and did a leak down test and it’s coming out tail pipe indicating something wrong exhaust valve..each rocker is moving up and down like they should any idea what’s wrong ? Bad lifter ?
CrazedPerformanceRepair bad exhaust valve and yes cylinder 1 was on Tdc on compression stroke..valve spring looks fine I did use a borescope but the camera doesn’t have the up and down views so it’s hard to see the valve
If the exhaust valve is burnt it is likely caused from oil burning. You might have bad rings, I doubt it is the pcv system because than it would most likely burn up cylinder 7 exhaust valve.
CrazedPerformanceRepair yup that’s how it all started with cylinder 1&7 when I changed the plugs for those cylinders the very first time the spark plugs were missing small pieces of porcelain and we put new plugs in..it happened a couple times later and he changed the plugs again this time cylinder 1 is misfiring..
I released the lifter put it back together on the cylinder number 1. I changed the oil It ran fine for first 5 min then the rpms were idling high and the lifter collapsed again so i replaced the lifter on cylinder 1, put it back together and the rpms were still high at 3500+. This time i took it to mechanic he fixed the idling on a snap on computer. Three days later it started ticking again and miss firing/and rough idling so i figured the lifter collapsed again so I opened up the valve cover and the rocker wasn’t loose, cranked it by hand and it was moving fine. When i went to start the engine it would move at start up, then would stop moving. Whats going on? Help please
The lifter could also be spun, you can determine this by looking at the side of the lifter. To see the side of the lifter you need to pull the VLOM and clean out the oil tower of the suspected lifter with cleaner and shop air. Once cleaned you can look down the oil tower and if you see a hole in the lifter it is not spun. If however you see only shiny metal or a flat surface then the lifter has spun due to a bad plastic lifter guide. When this happens you will need to replace the camshaft and all lifters. This would be a good time to do a full AFM/DOD delete where you remove all AFM components and replace them with non AFM components.
Ok. So I’m clear ..... if/when I release my lifter( #4). With ur tool and parts kit. I do the VLOM delete (nip-tuck) And my tunner will come to my home to do the ECM DOD delete I then would’ve ok and safe to run the truck normally without the worry of it failing again ...!!!????? TIA ! CamoJoe
Quick question, I try this on a Chevy suburban 2008 and it works, but when I drove it the noise came back, I wait for 1 to 2 hours and the truck starts good I drove it again and the noise persists. What do you think it could be?
You need to disable the DOD so the problem doesn't return. Do my VLOM mod and turn it off in the computer. Check out my website in the description for more info.
I just put high-pressure shop air with a solvent in the bad lifter from the rocker-arm oil hole, it will break free...and go ahead and clean the others while you are resting , or drain a quart of oil replaced with a quart of kerosine , let the engine idle till normal temp ...you're finished with an oil & filter change..! You guys make things away too difficult ..! Or change the oil & filter with a quart of Transmission fluid replacing a quart of oil , drive for about 500 miles ....will work..! I just can't handle Automatic doors !
You had a standard lifter issue and didn't have a collapsed AFM lifter issue then. AFM lifters don't fail from gummed up internals. They fail from bound metal on the AFM side of an AFM lifter.
Very good recap! Quick, and to the point. One question: When you modify the VLOM you can either leave the solenoids and other "guts" attached or take them off?
It's best to take the guts out but if the vlom is riveted together one can just cut the gaskets above the lifter oil ports. The goal is to make sure the pressure doesn't build up on those DOD lifters.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks for the quick reply. I think I'll remove the guts even if they are riveted. I have a well equipped shop complete with lathe, mill and hand tools. Rivets are generally no problem to cut or drill out. Once I get the VLOM off I'll decide whether to drill and tap the oil port to block it off or turn a sleeve similar to the one you made and press it in. I'll need eyes on it before deciding. Thanks again! If I lived closer I'd offer to turn you out some sleeves to block that oil port off.
@@lespitts9479 With the oil port blocked off by the sleeve there is no reason for having a filter. The filter is supposed to provide additional filtration for the DOD system.
I have a P0301 code, missing. I took off the valve cover. The front lifter is not loose. However as we turn the engine over the front rocker stops moving after 5 or 6 revolutions of the engine. What does that mean?
You could have a VLOM issue but most likely the lifter is spun, you can determine this by looking at the side of the lifter. To see the side of the lifter you need to pull the VLOM and clean out the oil tower of the suspected lifter with cleaner and shop air. Once cleaned you can look down the oil tower and if you see a hole in the lifter it is not spun. If however you see only shiny metal or a flat surface then the lifter has spun due to a bad plastic lifter guide. When this happens you will need to replace the camshaft and all lifters. This would be a good time to do a full AFM/DOD delete where you remove all AFM components and replace them with non AFM components.
Did you see this video yet ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html the first section of the video explains several types of lifter failures. You may of had one getting oil pressure, was one spun 180*, or perhaps the VLOM had a issue?
I believe I have a stuck valve that bent a pushrod. Seems unlikely on a truck with 55,000 miles. But if the warranty company won’t fix it, I’ll have to. Just wondering if there’s a way to do that with the heads on?
And if you replace the engine with another AFM equipped engine it will inevitably break as well. It's time to do a full AFM delete. It's much cheaper than an engine and it solves all the AFM related issues. I offer AFM delete kits on my website CrazedPerformanceRepair.com
Because it adds the expense of broken manifold bolts, new head bolts, head gaskets, lifters, and also don't forget you need a machine whatever heads you pull off. Then of course you need new valve stem seals and a drain all the antifreeze. It's a lot less work to do the trick over pulling the heads. And since this is a customer vehicle, I have to offer them all possible options and let them choose. A lot of them would much rather spend $700 to do the lifter release trick then spend almost 3 grand to replace the lifters with stock garbage. This is because if I'm going to go that deep I'd much rather go to spending $4400 ish of their money and do a complete mechanical and electrical delete of the system. It only adds a little extra labor to pull the timing covers and camshaft too. After all replacing the stock AFM lifters and not shutting the system off will only lead to another failure later on down the road. This is because it doesn't solve the source of the failure. A lifter didn't just fail for no reason.
I’m watching this entire video believing I can do this 🤣😂🤣 I’ve already spend 2k at the dealer on this f lifter and once my warranty ended it happen again 😒 if anyone in los angles did this successfully let me know.
About two weeks ago, I bought the tool you make and followed your instructions, used a light weight hammer with fast taps, and the pushrod came flying out of the head in two seconds. Put it back together installed a DOD disabler, the truck is running great. Thank you! 1 out of 10 highly recommend.
You can actually call this guy up and talk to him, I did, he seems to be straight up and friendly, and fair prices. I wish he was in east Texas, my dads dealership would keep him busy.
LOVE your videos and your intelligence! Thank you for sharing all of the step-by-steps. A mechanic took me for about a 13k ride last year on my Tahoe and I was determined to learn how to fix it all myself as I'm going through the courts to try and retrieve some of my money back... You have helped this girl out so much as I learn! Thank you, again!
Glad to see a women getting dirty and take the initiative to fix there own cars too many get taken to the cleaners from dishonest shops.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair ooooh, there has been many days when I wrap up with that darn thing I've thought about pushing it off into the darn lake... But, when the weather cooperates, I'm back at it again. Ive learned alot along the way, but as of right now cylinder#7 intake lifter has me furious. I replaced all of the lifters about 4mo ago and here I am.. Last week while driving I heard an odd slight knock then the annoying light tap. Brought it home, pulled the valve cover, rod looks good, put a telescopic magnet down and was able to pull up the lifter, so it's not stuck, but the rocker has the play.. So, it's collapsed... But how? Do you suggest I try the carb cleaner in there or should I just go ahead and tear it all back down and replace the lifter?
I'd be bringing it on over to CPR if only the Carolinas weren't so far away...
Thank you for all of your time you put in to helping out those not so mechanically inclined, like myself.
@@d.w.2553 I would attempt my tap trick first but be sure to educate yourself on how the system works most important key notes are in my most recent ua-cam.com/video/628gz05Vy9Q/v-deo.html use that to find out what other videos may help you get it fixed. the job looks intimidating but its not all that bad. Take your time and use my videos to guide you through it. You got this!!! If needed feel free to contact me :)
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thank you for all of your replies... The weather is finally cooperating today.. However, my injector clips hate me today. Going to attempt your tap trick in a bit, just needed to walk away from those darn stuck clips for a minute before I set the whole thing up in flames blahhhh...
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair All torn down and ready to attempt this, but, as I'm waiting on this rain to subside before I give it a go, I managed to sand down one of the rods I replaced a couple of months ago, enough to fit down in there, but is there a right vs wrong as far as the way the indent is on the cut end that I drop in? I mean, if it can go wrong, it probably will with the darn luck I have had with this darn Tahoe.. THANK YOU for any and all of your insight!
2007 Suburban 5.3. Your tool worked great! Thank you for your video and for saving us a lot of $!
First and foremost..... Thank you so much for the great videos!! I just want to share my current experience so hopefully somewhere down the road it will help others. I just ordered your tool and oil plug for my 2007 5.3. 2 months ago I purchased a truck from a guy I work with that had a DOD fail on Cyl 1. I tore the truck down replaced all the lifters etc... long story short 3 weeks ago had a DOD failure on cyl 6 + 7 exhaust valves. (I used an OBD plug in DOD delete tuner, when at a garage for inspection and alignment, they drove it without DOD plugged in, hence the failure.. Brand new lifters UGH!!!!) Towed the truck home got the lifters free by prying up slightly with a flat head screw driver between the rocker arm and valve or so I thought. Though both rockers "popped" right back in place (so I thought) So I purchased a Diablo tuner to turn DOD off permanently.. here is where the headaches began, I kept getting a P0300-00 code. Diagnosis showed that it was on cyl 6 though not enough to set that code. What I eventually found was though the cyl 6 lifter had popped into place, there was very slight "spring tension" movement still. Push down hard on the rocker arm where it meets the push rod to ensure there is NO SPRING TENSION.... just solid lock with no movement. As in this video, it is important to ensure you get that "rock solid" lock feel once a lifter has reset. Or you could have the headaches I am having. I just ordered your tool and plug, hopefully I can reset the lifter properly using this video method as I am not looking forward to redoing this lifter job again...Wish me luck, I hope this experience helps someone else.
Thanks for all your videos on the DOD stuck lifter. Fixed my truck this evening...
Cylinder 6 failed for me. Made a tool out of brass and worked perfectly. Won't damage the lifter....
Now to watch mod videos on valley plate mods
Rick
This is my most current video ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html if you want the updated VLOM mod go to 27:17.
Thank you so much for this video. I recently purchased 1998 p-30 truck chassis with a 454 vortec gen 6 engine. After watching your vid I am sure it has at least 1 stuck lifter. The oil was sludge. The oil pump may also be plugged as I have no oil in the top end on either side. The biggest problem is the fact that this is a 35' class A motorhome. I have discovered that no one in Denver will touch a motorhome!!! Even a GMC dealership that sells motorhomes refused to look at it. I am going to do it myself and think you may have saved my motorhome. Would have had to junk it. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Dan Young
Denver. CO
I highly doubt this trick will apply to your motorhome. As far as I'm aware not only are they not equipped with AFM but they are a completely different block.
Dude you are awesome thank you very much you saved my ass 🙏🏽 cylinder #7 got stuck 2013 Silverado 5.3 2wd 150k miles
Tune out dod after it should last a while. Nice video saves alot of time and money !
Thanks for the “cool” little trick!😉💪🏼👍🏼
Insane it released hope it stays that way
Just ordered your tool and plug did this to a 08 tahoe and it worked thanks from wisconsin
Thank you, so much!!!
You save me! I try it and it worked just fine. God bless you, for sharing.with us.
Quick question, I try this on a Chevy suburban 2008 and it works, but when I drove it the noise came back, I wait for 1 to 2 hours and the truck starts good I drove it again and the noise persists. What do you think it could be?
@@yesicar83 did you ever figure it out? Maybe a bad lifter?
@@yesicar83 did you figure it out, did you fix it ? What was the problem??
p304 misfire, lifter tick. used his tool and fixed the problem. Pretty surprised and also happy.
Was your lifter stuck with the loose rocker arm or was the entire lifter and rocker arm not moving at all?
@@Pibs2525 the rocker on cylinder 4 afm lifter was loose, used the tool on it and retorqued everything and its run fine ever since.
Currently having a intermittent misfire on a 2015 silverado 5.3 #4 cylinder I’m going to pull the valve cover this evening and check for a collapsed lifter. Will this process work on my year make and model?
i'm hoping mine is just a collapsed lifter. It has a pretty good knock and I have no time and even less money. I ordered your tool and plug. We will see. The shop told me $7000 to fix but I have little faith in them. I have a misfire but other than that the truck runs smooth and uses no oil. Thanks for your hard work and honesty.
Thank you I hope you seen the more recent video ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html on this that covers more information on the topic.
Did your trick. And used the gentleman from your website to tune ecm. Motor is in quite runs perfect. Thanks for your help
Having this issue on my Envoy Denali. Thank you for sharing!!!!
I thought the tire was flat till you explain 😂 good one
What if I don't have AFM DOD do I have to the modification on the flem ? 08 GMC Sierra 2500hd 6.0 liter
I have a 2010 Cadillac Escalade ESV with AFM (Garbage) I was wondering does the lifter trick works on the 6.2L Engine as well as the 5.3L . I am misfiring on cylinder 6 which is AFM lifter?
Best fix/trick ever Thank you
Questions:
- If I have a range technology AFM disabler already, can I use that instead of the tune? I ordered the disabler and then my lifter collapsed. I want to get the full tune but I'm on a time crunch as I'm supposed to move soon.
Hi I use the release tool and push rod came out but now something is preventing it from going back in???
Are you just not getting it in the right spot something? I've never heard of that issue yet.
06 gxp can you use the plug without a tune? I want to just disable the dod. Im a Minnesota mechanic too...👍
Vlom plug requires tune long term. I was showing what it does without it. I moved to SD now.
Awesome video and a good tip...I am a mechanic myself, but never thought of this. Just finished doing some heads on a 2010 with all new lifters and oil sensor filter...still ticking. Going to try this out. Thanks!
Watch this one fist. It has much more information in it ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html
Did you figure it out??
What can I use at home to release the lifter without damaging it? Thanks for your video!!!
Some mild steel rod and machine it to fix like I do. It's takes a process to get it to fit right.
Or you could just get a tool off my website.
At what position should I have the cam for the release of the lifter
Each lifter is different try top and bottom of lobe.
Thank you for the information it was really helpful. I did take it apart for like the 4th time only took like 20 minutes this time and looks like looks like the lifter is spun. I inspected the camshaft looks fine. Should I try to replace just a lifter again and the tray and call it gooD OR? I already did the VLOM mod just like you recommended and I can send in the PCM to get it tuned because I am not a mechanic and kind of scared to get into the whole camshaft deal.
Does this apply to the 2014 4.3? Haven’t really seen that this is a problem on the 4.3, but I definitely have a collapsed litter. I have confirmed it. It is lifting the valve about 1/2, it has a 1/4”, so it’s not stuck. I do have a gap under the rocker. It is the front cylinder drivers side. I believe that’s AFM lifter. I have not got into further yet, dreading removing the head. Also I have noticed that there is very little oil coming into the valve Train during operation..
I have yet to see a 4.3 with AFM lifters. All I see are V8 or the 3.4 type 60deg v6 stuff.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I am into the teardown now. I have found that the failed lifter is #1 intake, which is not an AFM lifter, on the V6 AFM is the center cylinder. The lifter only comes out of the bore 1/2” and stops. In process of removing cam so I can get it out the bottom. I will delete the AFM lifters now anyway.
What about using Range disabler?
Will this work on a 07 4.8l?
Most likely not, it has to be equipped with AFM. As far as I understand the 4.8 is typically excluded from having AFM.
Another awesome job! Thank you so much for sharing.👍👍👊
I have a 2010 Escalade with a 6.2 the trick to release the lifter worked! Went to put the rod back in, and it barely goes in? Any ideas?
Put what rod back in?
Thank you very very much i did it it worked for me!! You saved me a lot of money but i have 1 quastion.
Why the oil pressure drop down after releasing the lifter? The oil pressure in my car was stable above the quarter of the guage even if the engine reached normal operating temperature but after releasing the stuck lifter the oil pressure is normal at starting but keep dropping down until reach zero after the engine warm up and reach normal operating temperature.
Releasing the lifter shouldn't cause a drop in oil pressure unless maybe you used a screwdriver to release it and damaged the lifter getting aggressive. Did you do the VLOM modification and tune to turn off the system?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
Thank very much for your fast response actully i did not do the VLOM MODIFICATION I just released the stuck lifter and i will do it later but i used a tool smiller to your tool angle almost 45° and immediately released i even did not hit it hard.
@@omaralnajjar3081 if the VLOM has a issue and leaks oil pressure through a solenoid it won't help much it won't do you any good. Also hopefully you at least have the system shut off in the tune because if the lifter gets commanded on even once you will be stuck releasing the lifter again.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
Got it i will try to tune in after i check the oil pressure drop down becuse it confuses me that the pressure was good now the pressure is dropping down to zero when the engine warm up (like having a worn out camshaft bearing) i will check and give update as soon as possible and thank you very much.
Does that fix a screwed up camshaft?
Nope, it's time for a full delete at that point. I do offer kits for that as well.
Does it hurt to just throw that screen away under the pressure sensor? I threw mine out a long time ago cause it kept clogging and reading low. But now I have a stuck lifter a year later
Yes, if the system is still in use. All that debris ends up stuck in the VLOM, you will need to release the lifter and do my VLOM mod along with a tune to disable AFM. I show all of this here ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html the tune can be done by lt1swap.com
Did it throw code p0521? I changed my pressure sensor and screen and now that code comes up..
Before that, there was no reading on the dash and after putting in a new sensor/screen; its reads that codes comes up still.
Would this work on a non afm and non dod 6.2 with a stuck lifter
what size plug? I am in another country. Thanks.
Its a custom made plug. I send to some places outside the USA, what country are you from?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Russia. Yes, we have big problems with communication with other countries.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I removed the cover plate. I had misfires on cylinder 7. spark plugs and ignition coil are fine. there is no play in the rocker arm. what am I doing wrong? sorry for my english, google translate. ))
Would you recommend a specific weight/brand of oil for a 5.3 with 126k miles that has has a lifter fail but popped back with your technique?
Just any good quality 5w30 like Valvoline. Just make sure to change every 3k miles. These engines tend to get dirty easy.
CrazedPerformanceRepair Awesome thanks for the quick response and sharing your wealth of knowledge to help people such as myself save money and become better educated. You’ve been a great help.
I have a 2007 suburban it has traction control on and stability on too I already change coil da cable da spark plugs they told me I had a misfire on cylinder (4) u think it's my lifter got stuck
What my most recent video it explains a lot more ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html
Subbed! Great video.
hi im new in the channel and i fine your videos very helpful so question with this new trick you think i dont need to do the computer modification
just doing the push rod trick and the oil pressure sealed im ready to go right (i have the dod with rivets) thanks in advance
ua-cam.com/video/qiOBJj2xZbs/v-deo.html
I have a 99 chevy silverado 2500 6.0 with a light lifter tap.Did a motor flush,Changed the oil and filter(previous filter was a frame 🤦🏽♂️)and added marvel mystery oil.Lifter tap still exists.Drove about 300 miles changed the oil and filter again(acdelco filter) this time added rislone engine treatment have only driven it about 50 miles but you guessed it lifter tap still exist. oil pressure is between 38-40psi at idle hard acceleration roughly 50-60(never noticed it being that high before)Other than the lifter tap truck runs great(no rough idle or sluggish acceleration) based on your expertise what would you reccomend that I do?
You might have a piston slap or rocker knock. If it is a rocker it could be 1 of 2 things. It could be a worn out push rod rocker combo that the lifter can no longer make up for. It could also be a bad rocker trunion bearing. To find out you will have to pull valve covers and do some actual inspection of things.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Have the valve cover off where the tapping is coming from and upon visual inspection theres gunk everywhere!!! all rockers and valves feel the same dont notice any slack or gapping
@@noladronelife_6574 Did you rotate the motor and check again? You might of had one of the lifters being pushed on when you checked it.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair No sir didn't try that.I still have it down will check momentarily.Thanks for the advice.
I need help . I have a tick but it goes away sometimes when I come to a stop on a slope and sometimes at res lights . Any idea ? Thanks
I need your tool where do I get it
www.crazedperformancerepair.com
Hi, I have an 07 tahoe with 5.3l. I did the Diablo delete before any lifters collapsed. Do I have to do anything else? With vlom etc? Thank you
Check to make sure it is not loose ua-cam.com/video/dqbUIk0CBak/v-deo.html
Wow El Diablo I think that's like a a fighting chicken rite
I'm dealing with this now with my tahoe 2009 I took it to chevy a year ago got a engine now this year I'd mis firing in 4 so they said I need a vlom I had them do it now they say it's more the vlom didn't do it. I keep telling them I heard a pop noise in the engine. It like they ducking everything to skip past warranty off the engine.
Was there a video where you showed what abs plug is removed temporarily so dod wont activate? Im having it deleted in the tune but i have to drive 5 miles to him
I had a couple of people that doesn't work so if you do my VLOM mod without removing solenoids and leaving it plugged in, it should drive but run like crap if it tries going into 4 cylinder.
My issue was after i parked it a couple days it idles fine now, i want to sell the truck since i just bout a new 19 silverado so my thinking is just have it tuned out so it doesn’t happen again
2011 Chevy Silverado 5.3 no compression on cylinder 1 and did a leak down test and it’s coming out tail pipe indicating something wrong exhaust valve..each rocker is moving up and down like they should any idea what’s wrong ? Bad lifter ?
Doing a cylinder leak down requires that piston is on TDC compression stroke. If you did it correctly, I would suggest you have a bad valve.
CrazedPerformanceRepair bad exhaust valve and yes cylinder 1 was on Tdc on compression stroke..valve spring looks fine I did use a borescope but the camera doesn’t have the up and down views so it’s hard to see the valve
If the exhaust valve is burnt it is likely caused from oil burning. You might have bad rings, I doubt it is the pcv system because than it would most likely burn up cylinder 7 exhaust valve.
CrazedPerformanceRepair yup that’s how it all started with cylinder 1&7 when I changed the plugs for those cylinders the very first time the spark plugs were missing small pieces of porcelain and we put new plugs in..it happened a couple times later and he changed the plugs again this time cylinder 1 is misfiring..
CrazedPerformanceRepair what’s your email address I’ll send you a video of the truck running
Will this work on 2015 5.3 L83 GMC Sierra?
It very well could and has a high success rate. Be sure to watch my latest video on this for full details ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html
How can I purchase that tool
Crazedperformancrepair.com
I released the lifter put it back together on the cylinder number 1. I changed the oil It ran fine for first 5 min then the rpms were idling high and the lifter collapsed again so i replaced the lifter on cylinder 1, put it back together and the rpms were still high at 3500+. This time i took it to mechanic he fixed the idling on a snap on computer. Three days later it started ticking again and miss firing/and rough idling so i figured the lifter collapsed again so I opened up the valve cover and the rocker wasn’t loose, cranked it by hand and it was moving fine. When i went to start the engine it would move at start up, then would stop moving. Whats going on? Help please
The lifter could also be spun, you can determine this by looking at the side of the lifter. To see the side of the lifter you need to pull the VLOM and clean out the oil tower of the suspected lifter with cleaner and shop air. Once cleaned you can look down the oil tower and if you see a hole in the lifter it is not spun. If however you see only shiny metal or a flat surface then the lifter has spun due to a bad plastic lifter guide. When this happens you will need to replace the camshaft and all lifters. This would be a good time to do a full AFM/DOD delete where you remove all AFM components and replace them with non AFM components.
another great video
Ok. So I’m clear ..... if/when I release my lifter( #4). With ur tool and parts kit. I do the VLOM delete (nip-tuck) And my tunner will come to my home to do the ECM DOD delete I then would’ve ok and safe to run the truck normally without the worry of it failing again ...!!!????? TIA !
CamoJoe
Also. Did oil pump r&r and screen /oil sender r&r
I currently have lil to no noise while running with 4 dead. So I’m perty cofedent nuttin is hurt
Quick question, I try this on a Chevy suburban 2008 and it works, but when I drove it the noise came back, I wait for 1 to 2 hours and the truck starts good I drove it again and the noise persists. What do you think it could be?
You need to disable the DOD so the problem doesn't return. Do my VLOM mod and turn it off in the computer. Check out my website in the description for more info.
I just put high-pressure shop air with a solvent in the bad lifter from the rocker-arm oil hole, it will break free...and go ahead and clean the others while you are resting , or drain a quart of oil replaced with a quart of kerosine , let the engine idle till normal temp ...you're finished with an oil & filter change..! You guys make things away too difficult ..! Or change the oil & filter with a quart of Transmission fluid replacing a quart of oil , drive for about 500 miles ....will work..! I just can't handle Automatic doors !
You had a standard lifter issue and didn't have a collapsed AFM lifter issue then. AFM lifters don't fail from gummed up internals. They fail from bound metal on the AFM side of an AFM lifter.
Very good recap! Quick, and to the point. One question: When you modify the VLOM you can either leave the solenoids and other "guts" attached or take them off?
It's best to take the guts out but if the vlom is riveted together one can just cut the gaskets above the lifter oil ports. The goal is to make sure the pressure doesn't build up on those DOD lifters.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks for the quick reply. I think I'll remove the guts even if they are riveted. I have a well equipped shop complete with lathe, mill and hand tools. Rivets are generally no problem to cut or drill out. Once I get the VLOM off I'll decide whether to drill and tap the oil port to block it off or turn a sleeve similar to the one you made and press it in. I'll need eyes on it before deciding. Thanks again! If I lived closer I'd offer to turn you out some sleeves to block that oil port off.
@@lespitts9479 With the oil port blocked off by the sleeve there is no reason for having a filter. The filter is supposed to provide additional filtration for the DOD system.
In your other video you cut the gaskets in the vlom, do you still recommend doing this?
Yes
I have a P0301 code, missing. I took off the valve cover. The front lifter is not loose. However as we turn the engine over the front rocker stops moving after 5 or 6 revolutions of the engine. What does that mean?
You could have a VLOM issue but most likely the lifter is spun, you can determine this by looking at the side of the lifter. To see the side of the lifter you need to pull the VLOM and clean out the oil tower of the suspected lifter with cleaner and shop air. Once cleaned you can look down the oil tower and if you see a hole in the lifter it is not spun. If however you see only shiny metal or a flat surface then the lifter has spun due to a bad plastic lifter guide. When this happens you will need to replace the camshaft and all lifters. This would be a good time to do a full AFM/DOD delete where you remove all AFM components and replace them with non AFM components.
Are you only recommending to use ATF for engine flush?
I use atf to flush engines when they need a good cleaning but I have several do's and don'ts that I follow.
Can the lifter be stuck in the up position?
? I have never seen it yet, what is your symptom?
Misfire #6 code took the valve cover off and the rocker doesn't move like the rest
I put new lifters in yesterday just gotta put it back together now will keep you updated on what happens
Did you see this video yet ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html the first section of the video explains several types of lifter failures. You may of had one getting oil pressure, was one spun 180*, or perhaps the VLOM had a issue?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair yes 1 was spun , I put everything back together now the truck runs good again , thank you for video
Any method to clean intake valves without removing the heads?
What is wrong with your intake valves?
I believe I have a stuck valve that bent a pushrod. Seems unlikely on a truck with 55,000 miles. But if the warranty company won’t fix it, I’ll have to. Just wondering if there’s a way to do that with the heads on?
The valve will need to machined if it is bent and in that case the head will have to come off.
What can i drink when i do this job?
I prefer coffee but whiskey works well.
I was just told I needed an engine because it isn't worth fixing just a lifter they said it would keep breaking $15k
And if you replace the engine with another AFM equipped engine it will inevitably break as well. It's time to do a full AFM delete. It's much cheaper than an engine and it solves all the AFM related issues.
I offer AFM delete kits on my website CrazedPerformanceRepair.com
👍
I did mine with oil in the hole. I even added some. Oh well...
Why not just replace them ? You already did all the work ?
Because it adds the expense of broken manifold bolts, new head bolts, head gaskets, lifters, and also don't forget you need a machine whatever heads you pull off. Then of course you need new valve stem seals and a drain all the antifreeze. It's a lot less work to do the trick over pulling the heads. And since this is a customer vehicle, I have to offer them all possible options and let them choose. A lot of them would much rather spend $700 to do the lifter release trick then spend almost 3 grand to replace the lifters with stock garbage. This is because if I'm going to go that deep I'd much rather go to spending $4400 ish of their money and do a complete mechanical and electrical delete of the system. It only adds a little extra labor to pull the timing covers and camshaft too. After all replacing the stock AFM lifters and not shutting the system off will only lead to another failure later on down the road. This is because it doesn't solve the source of the failure. A lifter didn't just fail for no reason.
Man, I wish I could see exactly where you're tapping.
Down at the side of the lifter through the oil tower for the AFM system. I'm using my special tool. I have a non live video that explains more detail.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair --- oh, okay thanks. I was hoping I wouldn't have to take off the intake, but it looks like that's not an option.
I'm in Atlanta and willing to do to repair for others.
Could you fill out a contact form or message me on my website www.crazedperformancerepair.com
I'm in Atlanta too..posi send me your email
@@ninasdad01 send me an email at posi211@gmail.com
I’m watching this entire video believing I can do this 🤣😂🤣 I’ve already spend 2k at the dealer on this f lifter and once my warranty ended it happen again 😒 if anyone in los angles did this successfully let me know.
Check my site for shop nearest you willing to perform this service. Crazedperformancerepair.com it's under the AFM/DOD tab
Wack it hard kiddo 😂