THIS is why SMART farmers pay US to do it. And you are correct. 90% of the time the rear engine seal or the front trans seal is leaking by that time so I advise splitting the tractor and doing it ALL while we're at it. I mean to say, "why put a band-aid on a spurting cut"? I can split that 135 on concrete with 2 rolling jacks in about an hour. Add 3 hours to replace seals and clutch and adjust, 2 hrs to reassemble and the whole job takes less than 1 shift even if we fight problems. And 'ether' is the BEST way to wear out a stubborn engine. I use WD-40. This 'virus' has EXPLODED my tractor biz. I've already done more biz in the first 4 months of this year than I did ALL of last year. Stay safe Brother. And God Bless....~Eli.
We're always too busy this time of year . I rather just go ahead and fix them myself , problem I run into is new clutches that weren't set up right when installed so the PTO won't go in gear .
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay ....The 2 plastic clutch alignment inserts we have here work with both the Fords and Fergies. Coarse and fine spline. Paid for themselves at least a hundred times. When putting a 2 stage clutch back to the trans....Don't fight it. Spin the pto a tiny bit after putting a bit of pressure forward and it slides right in. Hope this helps....~Eli.
@@singleman1986 I've got old input shafts for line up tools , I'm talking about clutches other shops or owners put in and didn't adjust the two stage tight enough but to be fair the manual says 90 thousands but it never works after everything wears in .
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay ....Yup. The old Sherman input shafts work as well. I never pay attention to 'manual clearances' myself. I put 'em back together a BIT tight. They'll 'loosen up' in a few field hours anyway. Same with steering, trans, and rear axle shims. I mean,.... we're talking 50-70 Y/O tractor gears here. 'Backlash' is what tears up gears and splines. Ya gotta learn a 'feel' for what's best. JMHO. God Bless....~Eli.
Thank you very much, Chris! Greetings from Reedsville, Ohio! I just bought my first Massey Ferguson 135 a couple weeks ago, and your efforts have given me the peace of mind and confidence that I'll be able to keep it running for a while without having to spend a fortune. I'll be catching up on the rest of your videos here shortly. I can already tell you're a genuine wealth of practical knowledge and just plain-spoken common sense.
Thank you , they built these old tractors when things were made to be repairable instead of disposable and most parts are still fairly easy to get . If you hit a snag with yours you can always email me I talk people through repairs a lot
So I dont know if you remember me or not.... My name is Kyle and I use to work for you helping out around the shop with Justin and Shy... prolly been bout 13-14 years ago now. But I think its awesome your making videos on youtube now.. the world could learn a whole lot from you. I know I did! Ive been a Multicraft Industrial Maintenance Technician for 7 years now Fixing and taking care of all sorts of equipment and with no higher education I attribute most of my success in this field to the basics and fundamentals I learned working for you. The experience was worth WAY more than the half a 20$ bill! Some of my favorite stories to tell also come from your shop/farm. it was always a good time! you got a subscriber for sure hope to catch ya on live stream some day
Thank you so much for the info. I'll make some calls in the morning. I sure do appreciate you getting back to me so quickly. Eases my mind to know what the problem is. Thanks again. You are a blessing to your viewers.
I replaced both Dual Clutches in my about 1989 Japanese 1035 tractor. Flywheel was cleaned & resurfaced. PTO WORKS BUT IT WONT PULL BACKWARD OR FORWARD. I DROVE IT INTO SHOP. I have removed steering assembly from frame. Every thing I see thru the cover it sets on a the next cover where the pto an drive shaft are Herbert Whitman Denham Springs , South Louisiana.
Its possible to put the traction disk in backwards and if they cut the flywheel and don't cut the step to match it can cause that . If you're to rough rolling it back together it's possible to break the center out of the disk . But most likely the disk is turned wrong and the hub is running on the pilot bearing unless the adjustment is way off
Thanx for the info I serviced my 135 today I battled to bleed it I did use a quick start to help it along after a few minutes it started but thanx this info is great
Oh yeah, I blew the dirt back once and it started running real good! He won't even put a in- line filter on it. He's so tight I can't help him. My H had dirt and a leaky sediment bowl so I tried a new one from TSC and it leaked worse so I put a brass elbow in the tank and a ball valve with a in-line on the way to carb. I hate to get rid of my sediment bowl but it stays running now. The originals were made to last and the replacements don't last a minute!
Great info! I don't know much about Massey's. My brother has a gold belly 50 gas. He's had it for years and barely uses it. I'm trying to get him to clean out the gas tank but he's too cheap to waste the gas. Haha.
When i hear a good ole boy say "im not really sure what the name of it is, but i bought it 20 some odd years ago just for this" thats who i want to work on my shit.
I grew up on a Massey Ferguson with a 2 stage clutch. I absolutely love it for all PTO work! Back in the eighties I worked a summer bailing hay with a Ford Golden Jubilee that had a single stage clutch and that took some getting used to. Also brushhogging with an N series tractor with a single stage clutch took some getting used to.
Hey Chris- Joel from LA (lower Alabama)- Joseph is my given name. I finally got up the nerve to begin looking at my problem When I removed the cover plate a stainless pin 5/16x2 11/16 fell out. From what I can tell it is held in place by one of 3 springs that keep tension on the 3 legs or arms . The spring wraps around the arm then goes thru the hole in the pin. I know you still have to separate the body but can the broken spring be replaced without removing the clutch? I think we had the clutch replaced 7 yrs. ago when the trans gears exploded- I'm seeing some new bolts showing so my dad may have had the clutch replaced while they had it in two pieces. Any info is appreciated. We have a company called Clutch Products in Mobile so they might have the spring. Thank you. Joel
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Our family's been in Southern California for over 100 years.....so this is home. We have a small 'ranch' (8 acres) in North San Diego County about 10 miles inland from Oceanside. Great place for growing Avocados, Oranges & Lemons. We also grow our fair share of weeds. My kid picked up a mid 70's Massey Ferguson a while back. I'm not sure if it's a MF-20 or MF-135. I think it's the Industrial Version. I've recently noticed that the tractor is revving but not transferring power to the drive wheels so I'm assuming it may be a clutch adjustment. Your video is the closest thing I've found that shows me what to do. I'm gonna give it a shot and see what happens. If it works.....I owe you lunch.
@@socalpal8416 if the pedal doesn't have any free travel at all it's definitely possible . My email is on the about page if you need a little guidance , glad to help
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Thanks Chris. Think I'll pressure wash the beast first. Like you....I don't any debris in my eyes, face, hair, nose .......etc.
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Chris....One other question about my tractor's slipping clutch. I noticed that the transmission's hydraulic oil is milky white. Water is apparently leaking in through the shift boots. Would that cause a slipping clutch? I've got 5 gallons of 90 weight gear oil which I'll put in after draining out the old. Just curious if water in the gear oil would cause the tractor to barely creep along even though the engine is running fine?
Great videos Chris! I had a problem come up with my 135 yesterday. When I cranked her up I had my foot on the clutch because it was in gear & she starts moving! Shut her off- put it in neutral- cranked it up & no movement but I can't use the clutch to put it in gear. I have to shut it off- choose a gear- crank it up- & hold on. So I have lost control of the clutch. When its running I hear a slight chattering noise. I have 2 fingers on the clutch pedal & it doesn't feel any different than before though I never paid much attention to it. My dad had me driving a tractor when I was 5 years out of necessity but I'm not really a tractor mechanic. That was 65 yrs. ago. Do you have any idea what is happening? You may have addressed this in another video. If so what was the title? Keep up the good work & if you can help me thanks.
Pressure plate broke on you that's not uncommon. Replacing the clutch is all you can do it's an fairly easy job rolling it back together is the only aggravating part . Getting a clutch might be an issue right now I've got three on backorder I've been waiting a month on
Thank you SO much Chris!! I have the glass bowl fuel filter type and I have changed it...I had NO IDEA the lines would need to be bled like brakes. I'm glad I got rained out and didn't get to finishing it and watched this. I am going to change oil which is easy enough, and the hydraulic oil which was milky so I know it had water in it. I hate to hear ( but glad you told me) that the clutch letting out on top is not an easy fix. I may or may not attempt that later, I think I'll just deal with it a little longer. Do have question....how do I know when to stop pumping that fuel pump thing and do you just crack that little nut on the side you showed to let air out? Is it like brakes where you loosen, pump tighten and repeat? Thanks so very much! I really do appreciate you :)
The same one on the filter , pump until it a good flow . Then you can open the one on the pump it might push fuel then air , shut it then pump it up tight .it's not like brakes you just pump until the air is gone
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay While I was at the parts place I picked up a new steering wheel. Any advice on how to get the old one off? The chrome nut came off quite easily but I can't budge the wheel. It's got a square keyway but no place for a set screw access so I don't think there is one. Help??
@@Angel283 you have to use a 3 jaw puller ( a cheap one is fine ), spray it with penetrating oil the day before and it'll come right off . If the plastic is still on the old wheel its easier to do if you break it off first ( puller fits better ) . DON'T HIT THE STEERING SHAFT WITH A HAMMER too much of a chance of messing it up .
Chris- started splitting my diesel135 today. Need some answers if possible- do I have to remove the dash assembly? I have looked at all the places mentioned for a serial # to id the year but all I can find are individual casting numbers. There is no tag at the base of the dash. Do you know how I can id the exact 135 I am working on? I'm fairly certain I have a single stage clutch but it would be helpful to know the info from the id tag. thank you. joel
Easiest way is to lift up the steering box . Watch out for the three springs and detents between it and the transmission case . Usually the last patient date on the plate is the year or really close but all you need to get the parts is whether it's single or dual disc email me and I'll give you my number I can tell you everything in five minutes there's a couple of shortcuts we change single disk clutches in a 35 in 2.5 hours double that for a two stage for set up and they're way more aggravating to roll back together
Homesteading the Hard Way I’m probably going to have to put a throw out bearing in soon anyway, it will wine like a turbo at times when I bale hay. It did it today but didn’t do it very long unlike last year with my old baler that was a clutch killer. Thanks! Y’all be safe up there!
Just bought a 135 with the Perkins gas. PTO grinds when I engage it. And clutch releases at the very top of the pedal. Will a clutch adjustment help me? Or am I looking at a new clutch?
It's about the same , set the free travel at the collar on the shaft ( same place I did this one ) then you set the peddle height with the rod that goes from the collar to the peddle . You'll see a flat stop on top of the collar should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch between it and the housing with light pressure on the peddle . I've got a 235 in the shop now if you have any questions
I just wrote a long comment & it disappeared! The clutch is a "spicer dual drive clutch" #130252. The inner disc is 11" & both are 10 spline. Found the id tag below the dash- SDW64001172. Making plans. The split went well using 6" guide bolts. Thank you. I will keep you posted on my progress & what path I take. joel in LA!! Let me know if any of these numbers mean anything.
I have a MF135 Perkins 3 cylinder. Yesterday the rear right hand wheel locked up in forward gears. It work in reverse and works in forward with diff lock on. Any ideas??
Kinda off base for this video, but what hydraulic would be equivalant to the MF 1129 that they recomend? I wanna save some money but dont want tear my new to me tractor up. Thanks in advance..
Nose the tractor down in the ditch as steep as you can or drain the hyd oil , then there's a plate with 4 bolts and 2 flat head screws around the pto shaft remove that and the chain brackets put the shifter in ground drive and pull the shaft and seal housing out the back there's a hole in the pto shaft you can put a bar through to help . Try to get the double lip solid seal you have to drive them in backwards and the cheap seals bend bad oh and there's a lock ring behind the bearing to get the seal housing off the shaft You can get it out with a screw driver leave the bearing with the shaft . If you don't have to drain it you can do it in less than 30 minutes
Hello Chris...I have a Massey Fergurson 175 and I am looking for a mechanic to install a clutch. I am in Morrsion Tn and Gentry Bro. closed down in Sparta so we have no mechanics anymore. Hoping you might know someone close by to recommend. The clutch is just starting to slip a bit. The bell has been open about 8 years ago to replace gears in trans. so hopefully wont be to hard to get into. Windy Cash
My 35 has a dual stage (as per serial number) but it appears to be adjusted to a single stage. I can change gears with clutch depressed but cannot engage engine speed PTO. How does one attempt to un-adjust the single stage back to the original dual stage?
You can adjust them through the plate under the bell housing but it's aggravating , set them at 75 or 80 thousands book says 90 but they need to be tighter.
That's the big ones I think , these little ones have about 20 different names depending on who made them . Line up bar, injector puller , pin bar , pinch bar , jimmy bar but most just say pry bar on the pack but I do have a BIG one from Snap On that said roll head pry bar .
THIS is why SMART farmers pay US to do it. And you are correct. 90% of the time the rear engine seal or the front trans seal is leaking by that time so I advise splitting the tractor and doing it ALL while we're at it. I mean to say, "why put a band-aid on a spurting cut"? I can split that 135 on concrete with 2 rolling jacks in about an hour. Add 3 hours to replace seals and clutch and adjust, 2 hrs to reassemble and the whole job takes less than 1 shift even if we fight problems. And 'ether' is the BEST way to wear out a stubborn engine. I use WD-40. This 'virus' has EXPLODED my tractor biz. I've already done more biz in the first 4 months of this year than I did ALL of last year. Stay safe Brother. And God Bless....~Eli.
We're always too busy this time of year . I rather just go ahead and fix them myself , problem I run into is new clutches that weren't set up right when installed so the PTO won't go in gear .
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay ....The 2 plastic clutch alignment inserts we have here work with both the Fords and Fergies. Coarse and fine spline. Paid for themselves at least a hundred times. When putting a 2 stage clutch back to the trans....Don't fight it. Spin the pto a tiny bit after putting a bit of pressure forward and it slides right in. Hope this helps....~Eli.
@@singleman1986 I've got old input shafts for line up tools , I'm talking about clutches other shops or owners put in and didn't adjust the two stage tight enough but to be fair the manual says 90 thousands but it never works after everything wears in .
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay ....Yup. The old Sherman input shafts work as well. I never pay attention to 'manual clearances' myself. I put 'em back together a BIT tight. They'll 'loosen up' in a few field hours anyway. Same with steering, trans, and rear axle shims. I mean,.... we're talking 50-70 Y/O tractor gears here. 'Backlash' is what tears up gears and splines. Ya gotta learn a 'feel' for what's best. JMHO. God Bless....~Eli.
A man who knows what to do it and how to explain it
Thank you very much, Chris! Greetings from Reedsville, Ohio! I just bought my first Massey Ferguson 135 a couple weeks ago, and your efforts have given me the peace of mind and confidence that I'll be able to keep it running for a while without having to spend a fortune. I'll be catching up on the rest of your videos here shortly. I can already tell you're a genuine wealth of practical knowledge and just plain-spoken common sense.
Thank you , they built these old tractors when things were made to be repairable instead of disposable and most parts are still fairly easy to get . If you hit a snag with yours you can always email me I talk people through repairs a lot
So I dont know if you remember me or not.... My name is Kyle and I use to work for you helping out around the shop with Justin and Shy... prolly been bout 13-14 years ago now. But I think its awesome your making videos on youtube now.. the world could learn a whole lot from you. I know I did! Ive been a Multicraft Industrial Maintenance Technician for 7 years now Fixing and taking care of all sorts of equipment and with no higher education I attribute most of my success in this field to the basics and fundamentals I learned working for you. The experience was worth WAY more than the half a 20$ bill! Some of my favorite stories to tell also come from your shop/farm. it was always a good time! you got a subscriber for sure hope to catch ya on live stream some day
I remember you and I remember that half a twenty lol , I'm glad to hear you're doing good and glad to hear I helped a little .
Thank you so much for the info. I'll make some calls in the morning. I sure do appreciate you getting back to me so quickly. Eases my mind to know what the problem is. Thanks again. You are a blessing to your viewers.
I had no idea you could even perform that service, great video and I will be watching more because I need to get as much knowledge as possible.
Glad to help and thanks for watching !
I replaced both Dual Clutches in my about 1989 Japanese 1035 tractor. Flywheel was cleaned & resurfaced. PTO WORKS BUT IT WONT PULL BACKWARD OR FORWARD. I DROVE IT INTO SHOP. I have removed steering assembly from frame. Every thing I see thru the cover it sets on a the next cover where the pto an
drive shaft are Herbert Whitman Denham Springs , South Louisiana.
Its possible to put the traction disk in backwards and if they cut the flywheel and don't cut the step to match it can cause that . If you're to rough rolling it back together it's possible to break the center out of the disk . But most likely the disk is turned wrong and the hub is running on the pilot bearing unless the adjustment is way off
You can email me and I'll try to talk you through what to check. homesteadingthehardway@gmail.com
You look to be limping a bit hope you and the family are doing well. I love how you put every detail into your instructional videos. God bless you.
Thanks Robin , I'm still stove up a little but we're good . Hope you are
Thanx for the info I serviced my 135 today I battled to bleed it I did use a quick start to help it along after a few minutes it started but thanx this info is great
Glad to help
I’m addicted to this channel 😂🤣
I can't stand to wear gloves!! They tear on me and make my hands sweat. I also can't grip and feel things as well. With you on that!
You know it says on the box they cause cancer so I don't know what the benefit is lol
Lots of great info !
Thanks Aaric !
Good thorough information my friend. But to be honest, if/when I consider buying a tractor the first thing I'm going to do is call a friend in NC!
I'm here when you need me Geeky !
Oh yeah, I blew the dirt back once and it started running real good! He won't even put a in- line filter on it. He's so tight I can't help him. My H had dirt and a leaky sediment bowl so I tried a new one from TSC and it leaked worse so I put a brass elbow in the tank and a ball valve with a in-line on the way to carb. I hate to get rid of my sediment bowl but it stays running now. The originals were made to last and the replacements don't last a minute!
Great video!
Thanks !
Well done thanks for the video
Thanks Preacher !
We got the oil filled air filter on our MF 135 Perkins 6-speed.
Great info! I don't know much about Massey's. My brother has a gold belly 50 gas. He's had it for years and barely uses it. I'm trying to get him to clean out the gas tank but he's too cheap to waste the gas. Haha.
A rusty gas tank can be the most aggravating thing in the world !
When i hear a good ole boy say "im not really sure what the name of it is, but i bought it 20 some odd years ago just for this" thats who i want to work on my shit.
I grew up on a Massey Ferguson with a 2 stage clutch.
I absolutely love it for all PTO work!
Back in the eighties I worked a summer bailing hay with a Ford Golden Jubilee that had a single stage clutch and that took some getting used to.
Also brushhogging with an N series tractor with a single stage clutch took some getting used to.
I've got A TO 30 that has that same setup as an 8n I don't like it . It's ok once you get used to it but the two stage was a vast improvement
Any long round tapered bar is usually in the classification of a drift punch for lining up holes.
Snap on calls them a rolling head pry bar craftsman called them a pry bar I think harbor freight does too
Hey Chris- Joel from LA (lower Alabama)- Joseph is my given name. I finally got up the nerve to begin looking at my problem When I removed the cover plate a stainless pin 5/16x2 11/16 fell out. From what I can tell it is held in place by one of 3 springs that keep tension on the 3 legs or arms . The spring wraps around the arm then goes thru the hole in the pin. I know you still have to separate the body but can the broken spring be replaced without removing the clutch? I think we had the clutch replaced 7 yrs. ago when the trans gears exploded- I'm seeing some new bolts showing so my dad may have had the clutch replaced while they had it in two pieces. Any info is appreciated. We have a company called Clutch Products in Mobile so they might have the spring. Thank you. Joel
It would be worth a try but you'll definitely have to cage the clutch and loosen the mounting bolts . Three empty bolt holes around the pressure plate
Sure wish I had you for a neighbor....................sigh. (Great Video. Your sidekick did a good job.)
Only 3000 miles or so apart , we are neighbors . Thank you
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Our family's been in Southern California for over 100 years.....so this is home. We have a small 'ranch' (8 acres) in North San Diego County about 10 miles inland from Oceanside. Great place for growing Avocados, Oranges & Lemons. We also grow our fair share of weeds. My kid picked up a mid 70's Massey Ferguson a while back. I'm not sure if it's a MF-20 or MF-135. I think it's the Industrial Version. I've recently noticed that the tractor is revving but not transferring power to the drive wheels so I'm assuming it may be a clutch adjustment. Your video is the closest thing I've found that shows me what to do. I'm gonna give it a shot and see what happens. If it works.....I owe you lunch.
@@socalpal8416 if the pedal doesn't have any free travel at all it's definitely possible . My email is on the about page if you need a little guidance , glad to help
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Thanks Chris. Think I'll pressure wash the beast first. Like you....I don't any debris in my eyes, face, hair, nose .......etc.
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Chris....One other question about my tractor's slipping clutch. I noticed that the transmission's hydraulic oil is milky white. Water is apparently leaking in through the shift boots. Would that cause a slipping clutch? I've got 5 gallons of 90 weight gear oil which I'll put in after draining out the old. Just curious if water in the gear oil would cause the tractor to barely creep along even though the engine is running fine?
Great videos Chris! I had a problem come up with my 135 yesterday. When I cranked her up I had my foot on the clutch because it was in gear & she starts moving! Shut her off- put it in neutral- cranked it up & no movement but I can't use the clutch to put it in gear. I have to shut it off- choose a gear- crank it up- & hold on. So I have lost control of the clutch. When its running I hear a slight chattering noise. I have 2 fingers on the clutch pedal & it doesn't feel any different than before though I never paid much attention to it. My dad had me driving a tractor when I was 5 years out of necessity but I'm not really a tractor mechanic. That was 65 yrs. ago. Do you have any idea what is happening? You may have addressed this in another video. If so what was the title? Keep up the good work & if you can help me thanks.
Pressure plate broke on you that's not uncommon. Replacing the clutch is all you can do it's an fairly easy job rolling it back together is the only aggravating part . Getting a clutch might be an issue right now I've got three on backorder I've been waiting a month on
I can talk you through it if needed
Thank you SO much Chris!! I have the glass bowl fuel filter type and I
have changed it...I had NO IDEA the lines would need to be bled like
brakes. I'm glad I got rained out and didn't get to finishing it and
watched this. I am going to change oil which is easy enough, and the
hydraulic oil which was milky so I know it had water in it. I hate to hear ( but glad you told me) that the clutch letting out on top is not an easy fix. I may or may not attempt that later, I think I'll just deal with it a little longer. Do have question....how do I know when to stop pumping that fuel pump thing and do you just crack that little nut on the side you showed to let air out? Is it like brakes where you loosen, pump tighten and repeat? Thanks so very much! I really do appreciate you :)
The same one on the filter , pump until it a good flow . Then you can open the one on the pump it might push fuel then air , shut it then pump it up tight .it's not like brakes you just pump until the air is gone
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Thank you!!!
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay While I was at the parts place I picked up a new steering wheel. Any advice on how to get the old one off? The chrome nut came off quite easily but I can't budge the wheel. It's got a square keyway but no place for a set screw access so I don't think there is one. Help??
@@Angel283 you have to use a 3 jaw puller ( a cheap one is fine ), spray it with penetrating oil the day before and it'll come right off . If the plastic is still on the old wheel its easier to do if you break it off first ( puller fits better ) . DON'T HIT THE STEERING SHAFT WITH A HAMMER too much of a chance of messing it up .
@@Angel283 no there's no set screw just rust
Chris- started splitting my diesel135 today. Need some answers if possible- do I have to remove the dash assembly? I have looked at all the places mentioned for a serial # to id the year but all I can find are individual casting numbers. There is no tag at the base of the dash. Do you know how I can id the exact 135 I am working on? I'm fairly certain I have a single stage clutch but it would be helpful to know the info from the id tag. thank you. joel
Easiest way is to lift up the steering box . Watch out for the three springs and detents between it and the transmission case . Usually the last patient date on the plate is the year or really close but all you need to get the parts is whether it's single or dual disc email me and I'll give you my number I can tell you everything in five minutes there's a couple of shortcuts we change single disk clutches in a 35 in 2.5 hours double that for a two stage for set up and they're way more aggravating to roll back together
I sent my number
Hey Pops! Can the clutch be adjusted in a John Deere 5300? Y’all be safe as well as everyone else that follows.
I got one to work on this week , I'll look at it to be sure
Homesteading the Hard Way I’m probably going to have to put a throw out bearing in soon anyway, it will wine like a turbo at times when I bale hay. It did it today but didn’t do it very long unlike last year with my old baler that was a clutch killer. Thanks! Y’all be safe up there!
Just bought a 135 with the Perkins gas.
PTO grinds when I engage it. And clutch releases at the very top of the pedal.
Will a clutch adjustment help me? Or am I looking at a new clutch?
It probably would help especially if it's releasing high
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I’m going to give it a try! Thanks for the video!
Can I adjust my clutch paddle on a 245 Massey Ferguson 86 model thank you 🇺🇸🇺🇸
It's about the same , set the free travel at the collar on the shaft ( same place I did this one ) then you set the peddle height with the rod that goes from the collar to the peddle . You'll see a flat stop on top of the collar should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch between it and the housing with light pressure on the peddle . I've got a 235 in the shop now if you have any questions
I just wrote a long comment & it disappeared! The clutch is a "spicer dual drive clutch" #130252. The inner disc is 11" & both are 10 spline. Found the id tag below the dash- SDW64001172. Making plans. The split went well using 6" guide bolts. Thank you. I will keep you posted on my progress & what path I take. joel in LA!! Let me know if any of these numbers mean anything.
Just need a two stage course spline clutch set , that's the most common setup.
I have a MF135 Perkins 3 cylinder. Yesterday the rear right hand wheel locked up in forward gears. It work in reverse and works in forward with diff lock on. Any ideas??
Check for a broken axil first then pull the lift cover and look at the gears but it sounds like an axil
Kinda off base for this video, but what hydraulic would be equivalant to the MF 1129 that they recomend? I wanna save some money but dont want tear my new to me tractor up. Thanks in advance..
I have used the green toped lubrigard . But tbh I use 1129 in newer stuff for customers because of liability
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay thank you much, Happy Easter
@@susej103 glad to help
@@susej103 happy Easter !
Good morning tractor man, can you tell me how to change the rear seal on the pto shaft it is leaking bad! Thanks 😇🤠🇺🇸
Nose the tractor down in the ditch as steep as you can or drain the hyd oil , then there's a plate with 4 bolts and 2 flat head screws around the pto shaft remove that and the chain brackets put the shifter in ground drive and pull the shaft and seal housing out the back there's a hole in the pto shaft you can put a bar through to help . Try to get the double lip solid seal you have to drive them in backwards and the cheap seals bend bad oh and there's a lock ring behind the bearing to get the seal housing off the shaft You can get it out with a screw driver leave the bearing with the shaft . If you don't have to drain it you can do it in less than 30 minutes
Thanks Tractor man I am going to try it!😇🤠🇺🇸
Hello Chris...I have a Massey Fergurson 175 and I am looking for a mechanic to install a clutch. I am in Morrsion Tn and Gentry Bro. closed down in Sparta so we have no mechanics anymore. Hoping you might know someone close by to recommend. The clutch is just starting to slip a bit. The bell has been open about 8 years ago to replace gears in trans. so hopefully wont be to hard to get into.
Windy Cash
I'm sorry I don't know anyone out there but it's an easy job and I'd be glad to talk you through doing it .
My 35 has a dual stage (as per serial number) but it appears to be adjusted to a single stage. I can change gears with clutch depressed but cannot engage engine speed PTO. How does one attempt to un-adjust the single stage back to the original dual stage?
Take the plate off the bottom of the bell housing and adjust the fingers to 80 thousands clearance then adjust the pedal hight .
Maybe I just didn't adjust the clutch properly when we changed the thrust bearing and the adjusting screws, as the PTO does NOT disengage.
You can adjust them through the plate under the bell housing but it's aggravating , set them at 75 or 80 thousands book says 90 but they need to be tighter.
They do not want us talking so they do not swap phone info. I live in Baldwin County Alabama & I'm in "the b ook" like in the olden days.
I use the same tool to adjust mine. I call it a lady's foot crowbar
That's called a "roling head bar"
That's the big ones I think , these little ones have about 20 different names depending on who made them . Line up bar, injector puller , pin bar , pinch bar , jimmy bar but most just say pry bar on the pack but I do have a BIG one from Snap On that said roll head pry bar .
Definitely a lady finger in the oilfield
Hey Chris, I just bought a MF 135 and have a few questions. What is your email?
homesteadingthehardway@gmail.com