Nice to see you guys up and running again after your bad start with covid, anyways great job on the Volvo back to the tank like qualities they always had! great looking car nearly there! cheers!
Ah, rusty old Escorts. Brings back memories of fibre glassing the sills and then filling with cataloy, so you could paint it neatly with black Hammerite paint. All to get through an MOT. Looking back, I must’ve been mad !
Well Monica took 4 cans of Dynax, we didn't scrimp either! Everything has been protected. We even did in the doors and behind any panels that got welded.
I'd be interested to know how the S50 product reacts if the car needs some welding later on. Does it remain flammable? I remember doing a lot of welding on my old Mercedes 307D and the factory underseal would burst into flames as soon as the welder came within a mile of it!
Bilt Hamber is the best! I use Hydrate-80 on bare steel... I did use Fertan rust converter for a while, but it was far too labour intensive! PS: Waxoyl is poop!! Cheers. Leigh.
If you thin and or heat waxoil it's easyer to use and it creeps far better, i agree as standard it's pretty low end compaired to pressurised can products which come ready thinned by virtue of being stored pressurised 🤔
I tried using Fertan on the underside of the front suspension strut areas on my Peugeot Expert - it looked like it was working, but after being left for a couple of weeks it started to look like it was sweating beads of rusty water, which I could wipe off with my finger. I don't think it works on very heavily pitted steel. I switched to Hydrate 80 and so far it's been fantastic, and incredibly easy to use. I then brush painted the inner wings with Electrox primer - they're still in primer at the moment because I haven't got to the next bit yet.
I remember when I waxoyled the crap out of my Cavalier back in the day and parked it while I attended a wedding. It was a very hot day and when I returned to the car it was a dripping mess!
I've tried a few undercoats but the problem is it creates a plastic film that hides rot and corrosion happening under it and it is impossible to make this film waterproof. After much trial and error I've found the best coating is white gloss, any rust occurring can be spotted in seconds and attacked.
We used the Indasa underbody coating as it's what we had in stock. Ideally we would have used the Bilt Hamber Dynax UB but we can't waste materials all ready in stock.
I was slightly worried when you was doing the in car bits that the spray was going to hit the headlining Good quality work as usual Any chance of seeing day to day customer projects like the Lotus you done? Glad you’re all well again
I draw a mark on end of probe about an inch before then end. That way when your pulling it out - you can see when to stop . Otherwise getting it off your face is very painful
After this treatment, this Volvo 240 will still exist in 100 years.😉
Epic job guys! Nice and protected for many many years.
Hopefully holds off the rust for another 20 years 😂
@@WhitelandRestorations I am sure it will 👍
I love it as well, it’s lanolin based. It creeps and covers so well, amazing stuff.
Nice to see you guys up and running again after your bad start with covid, anyways great job on the Volvo back to the tank like qualities they always had! great looking car nearly there! cheers!
It's getting really close now, just a case of putting all back together and getting it MOT'd!
Ah, rusty old Escorts. Brings back memories of fibre glassing the sills and then filling with cataloy, so you could paint it neatly with black Hammerite paint. All to get through an MOT. Looking back, I must’ve been mad !
How many tins of each product did you use to do Monica?
4 cans of Dynax s50 and 5ltrs of Shultz underseal to fully protect her. She's going into the fight against rust fully protected!
Good to see you back to normal (if there is such a thing!). Monica will last for ever now. Good job.
Dynasty S50 is great stuff, when you know, you know. Liking the new Topolino logo. 👍
Dynasty! Damn spell checker. 😝
I use Bilt Hamber too on my 2CV. used lots of S50 and UB
Glad All is back on track after the hell you all went through over Christmas, Keep it up.
Oh so are we! What an awful start but we're back in the game now!
3:23 Rhostforfon - isn't that the next village down the road? 😁👍
Brilliant video as always. I’m intrigued to know how many cans of Dynax Monica absorbed. 👏👏👍
Well Monica took 4 cans of Dynax, we didn't scrimp either! Everything has been protected. We even did in the doors and behind any panels that got welded.
So an average car would take 4 cans of the aerosol Dynax. Would it be worth just doing all the chassis rails and my 2009 ST225/2019 BMW 330e?
@@MaddRIP1 hopefully Lewis will be able to advise you. I have the same query re both my cars that are 5 & 8 years old 👍
I'd be interested to know how the S50 product reacts if the car needs some welding later on. Does it remain flammable? I remember doing a lot of welding on my old Mercedes 307D and the factory underseal would burst into flames as soon as the welder came within a mile of it!
We'd always clean up underseal as well as we can before any welding..... don't fancy losing some eyebrows 😂
Subbed. Got a recommendation from someone's comment on the Number 27 car you tube channel. 😉👍
Have you tried wurth underbody protection?
Would be interested in your review compared to others
Nice protection.
Swedboy👍🇸🇪👍
Thanks Swedboy! Got to protect all that had work!
Bilt Hamber is the best! I use Hydrate-80 on bare steel... I did use Fertan rust converter for a while, but it was far too labour intensive! PS: Waxoyl is poop!! Cheers. Leigh.
If you thin and or heat waxoil it's easyer to use and it creeps far better, i agree as standard it's pretty low end compaired to pressurised can products which come ready thinned by virtue of being stored pressurised 🤔
Ive converted to bilt hamber after your recommendations. Theyre products are amazing
I tried using Fertan on the underside of the front suspension strut areas on my Peugeot Expert - it looked like it was working, but after being left for a couple of weeks it started to look like it was sweating beads of rusty water, which I could wipe off with my finger. I don't think it works on very heavily pitted steel. I switched to Hydrate 80 and so far it's been fantastic, and incredibly easy to use. I then brush painted the inner wings with Electrox primer - they're still in primer at the moment because I haven't got to the next bit yet.
Bilt Hamber products are fantastic! Highly recommended here in the workshop.
Great to hear! You won't be disappointed!
I remember when I waxoyled the crap out of my Cavalier back in the day and parked it while I attended a wedding. It was a very hot day and when I returned to the car it was a dripping mess!
Sounds like it was thoroughly done! 😂
@@WhitelandRestorations Still rusted though.😁
Guys please give an estimate of how much this whole process would cost. Suuuuuper curious especially because of the amazing work!
great video
Thanks Harry!
Bottom inside of the doors is good to protect too. Seems like 240s often rust there.
We've taken extra precaution there. They have been flooded with duckoil and Dynax to try and keep the rust away for as long as possible.
I've tried a few undercoats but the problem is it creates a plastic film that hides rot and corrosion happening under it and it is impossible to make this film waterproof. After much trial and error I've found the best coating is white gloss, any rust occurring can be spotted in seconds and attacked.
As with all underbody coatings, you have to make sure the underneath is prepared properly and as rust free as possible before applying.
How many cans of S50 did it take to do the Volvo?
4 cans of s50 and 5 cans of shultz 👍
Good stuff.👍
Thanks Nick!
Which shultz is best?
We used the Indasa underbody coating as it's what we had in stock. Ideally we would have used the Bilt Hamber Dynax UB but we can't waste materials all ready in stock.
@@WhitelandRestorations i used the ub stuff but its more wax than i expected & brown.
@@mcjjordan They have a clear version too, it's called Dynax UC if you don't want to see it
@@WhitelandRestorations yh i tried that aswell - & it is actually clear , not yellow. Good for under bonnet inner wings like vw used to do 👍
@@WhitelandRestorations i thought the stuff you used looked more bitumen based rather than wax based.
I was slightly worried when you was doing the in car bits that the spray was going to hit the headlining
Good quality work as usual
Any chance of seeing day to day customer projects like the Lotus you done?
Glad you’re all well again
Unfortunately a few of the customer projects can't be recorded at the moment....don't worry though, when we can we will film them!
Gamla volvos är livet!
I draw a mark on end of probe about an inch before then end. That way when your pulling it out - you can see when to stop . Otherwise getting it off your face is very painful
That's what she said.
Now that's not a bad idea!
Now Monica weighs 60 pounds more… 😂
and she wears it beautifully 😂