@@JessePelkey1 what spring do you run on your setup in the video I’d like to keep mine really close to like 8psi cause I can’t get a tune rn and I’m looking to delete the vacuum pump and just thread the rod as you did
You do a great job explaining things precociously and telling different options to choose from. you have a lot of knowledge on a truck that probably was built before you were born! Keep up the good work because this is a lot of help for these guys' me included.
Buddy you've been a great help I just bought a 98 gmc with a locked up 6.5 and I have a donor motor with less than 50k I'm about to build to put in and I never worked on a diesel before in my life, I've done plenty of gasoline builds so you've definitely enlightened me to the 6.5 Detroit world and I think I'm gonna like it
I was pulling a trailer and lost a bunch of power and was pushing a lot of black smoke so I wired my wastegate closed with some tie wire right on the side of the road. It got me going again.
On my '95 6.5 I placed a plumbing T in the hole where the factory electronic boost sensor resides. I then plumbed the factory sensor into one side of the T and the gauge tubing into the other.
Thanks for the videos they are great helps a lot my question is i have a 6.5 on a chevy ecpress 3500 1999 how many fuel filters they have i can only find one ? Thanks in advance
Anyway i can get a hold of you directly. I am currently in the middle of swapping a 93 Mechanical motor with a 95 fly by wire. Got some advise though videos on here... but i am lost on a few things never worked on a diesel before but i am a Mechanic
Kendall Burress here thanks for all the info it’s a lot of trouble doing all the true video no some bull shit trying to look smart thanks . Great job . I have been changing a 1998 6.5 turbo out with a 2002 6.5 non turbo the add turbo not fun
Great video Jesse as always you do a very good job. I guess my question is how would you prevent the check engine light from coming on? And thank you for the link on the raptor lift pump 👍
Thank you Joe, just tryin to make as good of videos as I can for y'all and I appreciate you taking the time to watch them 👍 as far as preventing the over boost check engine light from coming on, a tuned ECU/ tuner (depending on the year) is about the only option. I have heard of some people messing around with the mass air flow sensor in order to fool the ecu but for me it's just earlier to get a tune.
Pretty large turbo for a 6.5l, good possibility the engine isn't pumping out enough exhaust pressure in order to spin the turbine as efficiently as it should in order to make a high rpm whistling noise. Never the less you could try a different wheel but, not sure if it will improve anything.
Hey I'm new to the 6.5 I've got a 94 and it had the vacuum delete I put a manual wastegate on it is there a way or do you have a video on getting the heat to work again any help would be appreciated
Keep them coming. Just thought I'd mention that if you aren't keen on drilling holes or removing parts, using a boost bolt in place of one of the 2 bolts that pass through the intake is an option. What's next? 🤔
Hello, great video. I have a question. I own a 2002 Chevy express 3500 box truck with the 6.5. When driving over 50 mph the turbo is constantly reving up then the wastegate opens and back and forth constantly. The truck is not surging but the turbo up and down all the time is annoying. I own a 12valve Cummins too and that doesn’t happen. Is this normal for the 6.5? No codes. Thanks.
Hey Jesse, I’ve got a 1994 Silverado with a 6.5 turbo diesel and what is doing is it runs smooth but I can’t get much over 1700 to 1800 RPM does not blow black smoke I do not have a boost gauge to know what kind of boost I’m running I did replace the pick up pump module that usually sits on top of the motor and mounted it in the grill just not knowing where to go next. I don’t want to just replace the turbo it has about 180,000 miles on the motor.
Hi, sorry if this question is stupid but what model years have the vaccum assisted heater controlls? I have a 95 Chevy Suburban with a 6.5 turbo diesel. Good video btw 😁
How do you set the boost ? Is there a certain RPM,ect ? I have a stock 95 gmc engine with 185k and I think the dam pump is going out again 😫. Only modification I’ve done to it is changed the fan/clutch to a duramax. Sorry new to this and I just don’t want to blow it up 😆 not that it couldn’t happen anyway. Great videos 👍 I’m learning a lot🙏
No problem man, happy to help. The maximum boost is set by the spring tension for the turbo blow off valve. The more spring pressure you have acting on the exhaust pressure to keep the valve shut, the more boost you will make and vice versa with a lighter spring. For example if I wanted less boost on the wife's truck set up (the dually) I would back the nut off to relieve tension on the spring. And thank you, I hope these videos are helpful 👍
Hello Jesse, nice video! I have a 1999 chev k2500 6.5l with 498km. Owned it for 10 years. Nice body (painted twice ...live in Quebec)). Truck runs great! I read and watched a lot of videos on upgrading. So far : pmd, lift pump, lift pump harness, harmonica balancer, injectors, bigger fan and clutch, installed intercooler, down pipe and cross over pipe upgraded, air filter modified. Now I am looking at getting turbo from Zombie solution and I already have a waste gate like yours ready to be install. Boost gage already installed but do not get any reading ... I suspect original turbo not working . Zombie's turbo has two options 12 psi or 16 psi. which one should I get please? Denis
@@JessePelkey1 right Jessie! I am not a Mecanic, but like to do has much myself with help! I am 65 and love technology these days that can help ( you tube).
I sure hope you had already purchased it the moment you thought of it, because the poor man renamed it Zombie Solutions after suffering a stroke. He has since closed shop and is working out a deal to send over everything to another company to take over. I think it was Quadstar, but I am not sure.
1 does the waste gate open all the way a once, or gradually ? 2 why can't you use a electric servo to open the valve ran off of the plug for the vacuum solenoid ?
Gradually, and I suppose you could if you really wanted to introduce electronics into a mechanical system. I'm just personally not going to waste my time in order to do so when the existing system functions just fine for my use
Hey bud I’m about 2 years after seeing video I have a 6.5 only code is a 78 boost something but I’m haven’t a stumbling issue when cold barley wants to go but when I got transmission speed sensor was bad replaced that and doing a manual waste gate like on ur wife’s dually I’m wanting to keep it 8 to 10 at max should I tune one top to eliminate any other issues
So my 95 does not have vac assisted heater controls? Vac pump seized up after 1 year so seeing the logic in deleting. But if assists heater controls seems tougher choice. Thanks.
Is it possible to put head studs in a 6.5 with the motor still in the truck and the heads still on? Basically pulling one bolt and replacing it with a stud.
Yes, it is and in my head gasket videos I show it is possible to do so. I don't recommend doing the one bolt at a time trick. Just do the head gaskets with a head stud kit.
Bought a 93 gmc 6.5 today, guy said it was stock turbo, stock really everything, has vacuum waste gate and what not but it was pushing 15 pounds when reving it up, how is this possible with no manual waste gate and no engine codes or any lights
If you need to have vacuum for heater controls, about $80 will get you an electric vacuum pump and vacuum reservoir for a 6.0 Powerstroke truck. Maybe even cheaper if there is something similar for a universal kit, unless the controls need a crazy amount of vacuum.
You are correct sir, an aftermarket pump would work for the HVAC controls. People can also leave the factory pump in place and separate the function for the turbo in order to run a manual waste gate and keep their HVAC controls factory.
Are you saying I need the vacuum pump to operate my HVAC controls on a 98 suburban? This I'd the first anyones mentioned that, it's a pretty important fact..lol.
@@happycamper137 some of them work on vacuum, I don’t what years and models. Easiest way to find out is unhook your vacuum line and see if it quits working.
I have a 94 2500 that stoped running afrer removing the Optical sensor filter. I reinstalled the filter but still not running. Only code showing is a number 62. I don't believe that would stop the truck from running though? Pmd's relocated. And even tried my spare. Wastegate is operated manually and the vacuum pump has been removed. I had a spare injection pump and I replace the optical sensor the fuel shut-off check valve and the fuel shut off solenoid. Still not running. Any help would be appreciated
I make UA-cam videos for Repair Clinic. Type in Repair clinic Nuts and Bolts and that is me talking to you. Good video love it. I do suggest better video and sound quality for sure. This content is solid. Keep UA-cam up with your simple mods and how you did them or even a hands on walk through!
Thank you for taking the time to watch the video man, I do appreciate it. As far as better video and audio quality, it's in the works but all in good time. I don't make much off the videos I make and untill it starts really paying out I have to set aside the extra cash to do so. 👍
Hey man I got a 1996 gmc 1500 6.5 turbo. Just recently added a turbomaster to the turbo and blocked off the vacum line. Now I just wanna get rid of the pump is there anything else I need to do. Just remove the bolts take it out and get a smaller belt is that all?
So I recently picked up a mostly stock 95 K2500 and am going through the list. Can you tell me a definitive serpentine belt size for this delete on the 95? I keep hearing get a belt for a 92 or 93 but can’ seem to determine actual length.
I bought one of those over priced manual waste gates but couldn’t push more boost without a tune because I have a 96 and it would go into limp. Then I put a super 40 turbo on anyway 🤦🏼♂️
@@willjohnson211 That sounds like you are shaking hands with danger there bud i'd toss some studs in her pronto before it costs you more then a few hundred
Without head studs the engine can handle about 15psi 13to be safe. With head studs and a few other supporting mods I have seen 45psi. Just to get your truck to read boost all you have to do is install a boost pressure gauge onto the upper intake horn and mount it in an area of your choice. Avoid the over boost by setting the tension of the wastegate spring.
@@JessePelkey1 Thank you! You can check out the videos I make on our channel. (Repair clinic Nut & Bolts). I explain things about appliances and do part replacement videos.
I am actually uploading a new video on this very topic as I send this message to you if you are interested in watching it. It will be uploaded tonight very shortly 👍 couple things to consider before you just tie it open
The internal seals are completely blown. I would verify that it's the turbo itself that's leaking before rebuilding or replacing, if you're just experiencing like oil residue on the face of the inlet for the turbo and going into the intake a very well could be the PCV that is routed into the intake. If you were able to reroute the PCV out into the atmosphere and the Turbo doesn't leak and it was the PCV all along.
dam dude u got some clean hands! :p u outta see my hands i think my skins turned to some kinda leather i dont mind tho in fact its like always havin a pair of gloves on lol
@jesse hey man are you from TN? I just got 1999 GMC Savana 3500 6.5 liter desial van looking for any tips some bullet profiting has already been done but yeha
@@JessePelkey1 we'll opon further looking looks like just fuel driver module relocate but no heat sink on the back of it so I was going to get that aluminum one. Looks like nothing more than I can see was power company van looks to be well maintained. I wrote a list to get.. Oil switch relay harness ,water pump 130 gph, lifter pump not stock, manual waste gate , thermostats, 4 inch exhaust as well as intake , what else am I missing ? It runs but apparently has stalling issue lol I haven't seen it do that yet and pmd doesn't look old but still may need one again not sure . I will change all filters as well I just got yesterday haha it's a heavy duty van I love it
@jesse pelkey I'm having issue fuel driver module replaced already it seems to run for awhile then shuts off after awhile while driving lift pumps been replaced as well the driver module seems to get about 130 degrees then shuts off what could cause this ? And is the solinoid on back of injection pump replaced separately? And is a resistor required for that driver module the new one didn't have one but I ordered it
When the vacuum pump fails it will not allow the turbo to operate, resulting in a loss of power and run for too long that way it will eventually either melt down the turbo or meltdown Pistons because your egts are getting too hot. Not to mention you're wasting a ton of fuel because the engine isn't getting a proper air fuel mixture and you'll have very excessive black smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
@@JessePelkey1 I figure for the price of a new HX40 that is not a China one for just a bit more I can jump up too supper 60 and have all that whistle I like.
@@JessePelkey1 I just hope either my currently great running (slightl knock/possible tick sound) 1996 block is crack free or my 97 block in my parts truck (motor supposedly no good) I'm hoping between the two one will be good for a full rebuild.
You need the Vacuum Pump to pump the Diesel because the 6.5 does not pump fuel like a Gas engine. Since you need the Vacuum Pump how does it run without it then? What do you replace the vacuum pump with to still pump fuel? I dont get it🤔
You are incorrect sir, the 6.5l turbo diesel is equipped from the factory with a lift pump which pushes the fuel up to the injection pump. The 6.5l runs just fine without a vacuum pump so long as you install a manual wastegate instead of the vacuum actuated one. I would suggest a bit more research
@Jean-Andre Sonnenschein your good man, I didn't mean to sound ignorant and if I came off that way I do apologize. I do have a video on the entire fueling system if you would like to learn about it in further detail.
They will not be the same, you would have to change the ECM as well as a few other things in order to use the harness out of the 98 to put into the 95.
@timothyfarley8590 they are on the way man, unfortunately I have had a lot of family issues go down this year and I felt it best to take some time away from the camera. I will be making a video explaining another of this here in the coming weeks as well as the plans for next year
Thanks for your video’s! I misplaced my books and the videos have been a great help. Especially since doing an EGR delete while swapping motors in my 1994. Thanks again!
You can if you want to, I'd rather read boost levels at the intake manifold to get the most accurate reading of what's going into my engine but that's just me
Hey Jesse can you tell what block from the engine number ?Just in case here is mine # P336697 its the original engine in my RV year 2003, side mount Turbo , P32 Chev workhorse chassis Thanks Mate Rob NSW Australia
Thanks, I'm having that issue with my 94 and your video was a wealth of information.
I'm calling you my brother from today. Your knowledge is priceless to me!
Glad I could be of some help
@@JessePelkey1 what spring do you run on your setup in the video I’d like to keep mine really close to like 8psi cause I can’t get a tune rn and I’m looking to delete the vacuum pump and just thread the rod as you did
You do a great job explaining things precociously and telling different options to choose from. you have a lot of knowledge on a truck that probably was built before you were born! Keep up the good work because this is a lot of help for these guys' me included.
Buddy you've been a great help I just bought a 98 gmc with a locked up 6.5 and I have a donor motor with less than 50k I'm about to build to put in and I never worked on a diesel before in my life, I've done plenty of gasoline builds so you've definitely enlightened me to the 6.5 Detroit world and I think I'm gonna like it
They do make a bolt for boost if you don't want to drill your intake. Great video BTW!
Thanks man, I appreciate it.
The manual waste gate is definitely the way to go and mine on my 93 has been really reliable.
Completely agree brother 👍
Appreciate it ! Thanks for sharing ! Just starting on my 94 6.5
No problem man, thank you for watching
I was pulling a trailer and lost a bunch of power and was pushing a lot of black smoke so I wired my wastegate closed with some tie wire right on the side of the road. It got me going again.
Glad to hear it got you off the road in a pinch man
On my '95 6.5 I placed a plumbing T in the hole where the factory electronic boost sensor resides. I then plumbed the factory sensor into one side of the T and the gauge tubing into the other.
Good informational video. Have a 95 K1500 6.5 TD stock with 220k
Thanks for the videos they are great helps a lot my question is i have a 6.5 on a chevy ecpress 3500 1999 how many fuel filters they have i can only find one ? Thanks in advance
Should only be one fuel filter 👍
Anyway i can get a hold of you directly. I am currently in the middle of swapping a 93 Mechanical motor with a 95 fly by wire. Got some advise though videos on here... but i am lost on a few things never worked on a diesel before but i am a Mechanic
Kendall Burress here thanks for all the info it’s a lot of trouble doing all the true video no some bull shit trying to look smart thanks . Great job . I have been changing a 1998 6.5 turbo out with a 2002 6.5 non turbo the add turbo not fun
Not some 😂 bull shit
I bleed the air out of filter motor runs good for 15 minutes the runs low on fuel then I have to re bleed it again
Great video Jesse as always you do a very good job. I guess my question is how would you prevent the check engine light from coming on?
And thank you for the link on the raptor lift pump 👍
Thank you Joe, just tryin to make as good of videos as I can for y'all and I appreciate you taking the time to watch them 👍 as far as preventing the over boost check engine light from coming on, a tuned ECU/ tuner (depending on the year) is about the only option. I have heard of some people messing around with the mass air flow sensor in order to fool the ecu but for me it's just earlier to get a tune.
A gm 3 bar map sensor off of eBay solved my problem of the check engine light
Whats the part number for the 3bar map sensor
@@user-xp8vq2wd1n 12223861 is the 3bar map i used for my f vin 95
So I believe I have a 68 mm Garret or holeset but what would I need to do to get more whistle? A different wheel?
Pretty large turbo for a 6.5l, good possibility the engine isn't pumping out enough exhaust pressure in order to spin the turbine as efficiently as it should in order to make a high rpm whistling noise. Never the less you could try a different wheel but, not sure if it will improve anything.
Hey I'm new to the 6.5 I've got a 94 and it had the vacuum delete I put a manual wastegate on it is there a way or do you have a video on getting the heat to work again any help would be appreciated
Keep them coming. Just thought I'd mention that if you aren't keen on drilling holes or removing parts, using a boost bolt in place of one of the 2 bolts that pass through the intake is an option. What's next? 🤔
Also a great option man, thank you for your addition 👍
Can we see pictures of what you've done please
Hello, great video. I have a question. I own a 2002 Chevy express 3500 box truck with the 6.5. When driving over 50 mph the turbo is constantly reving up then the wastegate opens and back and forth constantly. The truck is not surging but the turbo up and down all the time is annoying. I own a 12valve Cummins too and that doesn’t happen. Is this normal for the 6.5? No codes. Thanks.
Can be a simptom of the vacuum pump starting to go out.
Hey Jesse, I’ve got a 1994 Silverado with a 6.5 turbo diesel and what is doing is it runs smooth but I can’t get much over 1700 to 1800 RPM does not blow black smoke I do not have a boost gauge to know what kind of boost I’m running I did replace the pick up pump module that usually sits on top of the motor and mounted it in the grill just not knowing where to go next. I don’t want to just replace the turbo it has about 180,000 miles on the motor.
Hi, sorry if this question is stupid but what model years have the vaccum assisted heater controlls? I have a 95 Chevy Suburban with a 6.5 turbo diesel. Good video btw 😁
Mits not s stupid question man, mostly 94 and older
@@JessePelkey1 Ah alright, thanks for the fast respond 😄👍
@@Joel-lz1xm no problem
How do you set the boost ? Is there a certain RPM,ect ? I have a stock 95 gmc engine with 185k and I think the dam pump is going out again 😫. Only modification I’ve done to it is changed the fan/clutch to a duramax. Sorry new to this and I just don’t want to blow it up 😆 not that it couldn’t happen anyway. Great videos 👍 I’m learning a lot🙏
No problem man, happy to help. The maximum boost is set by the spring tension for the turbo blow off valve. The more spring pressure you have acting on the exhaust pressure to keep the valve shut, the more boost you will make and vice versa with a lighter spring. For example if I wanted less boost on the wife's truck set up (the dually) I would back the nut off to relieve tension on the spring. And thank you, I hope these videos are helpful 👍
Jesse, what spring did you buy?
So yours are base 6.5 correct not an L I have an L and it's center mounted turbo and Intercooler system so you got a long block in both your 6.5s ?
I have questions about doing this, I would like to ask you about it since you've done it and there's a part you didn't cover that I'm lost about
Hello Jesse, nice video! I have a 1999 chev k2500 6.5l with 498km. Owned it for 10 years. Nice body (painted twice ...live in Quebec)). Truck runs great! I read and watched a lot of videos on upgrading. So far : pmd, lift pump, lift pump harness, harmonica balancer, injectors, bigger fan and clutch, installed intercooler, down pipe and cross over pipe upgraded, air filter modified. Now I am looking at getting turbo from Zombie solution and I already have a waste gate like yours ready to be install. Boost gage already installed but do not get any reading ... I suspect original turbo not working . Zombie's turbo has two options 12 psi or 16 psi. which one should I get please? Denis
Hey Denis, I noticed you didn't mention any sort of tune or head studs and am assuming you haven't done those yet correct?
@@JessePelkey1 right Jessie! I am not a Mecanic, but like to do has much myself with help! I am 65 and love technology these days that can help ( you tube).
I sure hope you had already purchased it the moment you thought of it, because the poor man renamed it Zombie Solutions after suffering a stroke. He has since closed shop and is working out a deal to send over everything to another company to take over. I think it was Quadstar, but I am not sure.
1 does the waste gate open all the way a once, or gradually ?
2 why can't you use a electric servo to open the valve ran off of the plug for the vacuum solenoid ?
Gradually, and I suppose you could if you really wanted to introduce electronics into a mechanical system. I'm just personally not going to waste my time in order to do so when the existing system functions just fine for my use
@@JessePelkey1 thank you!.. awesome videos!
Hey bud I’m about 2 years after seeing video I have a 6.5 only code is a 78 boost something but I’m haven’t a stumbling issue when cold barley wants to go but when I got transmission speed sensor was bad replaced that and doing a manual waste gate like on ur wife’s dually I’m wanting to keep it 8 to 10 at max should I tune one top to eliminate any other issues
Great video !!! What year models have the vacuum assisted heater controls ? Before or after 1996 ?
Hey thanks Dalton I appreciate it, before 95. 👍
So my 95 does not have vac assisted heater controls? Vac pump seized up after 1 year so seeing the logic in deleting. But if assists heater controls seems tougher choice. Thanks.
Is it possible to put head studs in a 6.5 with the motor still in the truck and the heads still on? Basically pulling one bolt and replacing it with a stud.
Yes, it is and in my head gasket videos I show it is possible to do so. I don't recommend doing the one bolt at a time trick. Just do the head gaskets with a head stud kit.
Bought a 93 gmc 6.5 today, guy said it was stock turbo, stock really everything, has vacuum waste gate and what not but it was pushing 15 pounds when reving it up, how is this possible with no manual waste gate and no engine codes or any lights
What is the serpentine belt # you used for vacuum pump deletion on your truck.
If you watch the video to the end, I give both the belt numbers for the 95 and older trucks as well as the 96 and newer.
If you need to have vacuum for heater controls, about $80 will get you an electric vacuum pump and vacuum reservoir for a 6.0 Powerstroke truck. Maybe even cheaper if there is something similar for a universal kit, unless the controls need a crazy amount of vacuum.
You are correct sir, an aftermarket pump would work for the HVAC controls. People can also leave the factory pump in place and separate the function for the turbo in order to run a manual waste gate and keep their HVAC controls factory.
Are you saying I need the vacuum pump to operate my HVAC controls on a 98 suburban? This I'd the first anyones mentioned that, it's a pretty important fact..lol.
@@happycamper137 some of them work on vacuum, I don’t what years and models. Easiest way to find out is unhook your vacuum line and see if it quits working.
Great video man
I have a 94 2500 that stoped running afrer removing the Optical sensor filter. I reinstalled the filter but still not running. Only code showing is a number 62. I don't believe that would stop the truck from running though? Pmd's relocated. And even tried my spare. Wastegate is operated manually and the vacuum pump has been removed. I had a spare injection pump and I replace the optical sensor the fuel shut-off check valve and the fuel shut off solenoid. Still not running. Any help would be appreciated
By chance do the PMD's that your using have any resisters in them? if so what are they?
I make UA-cam videos for Repair Clinic. Type in Repair clinic Nuts and Bolts and that is me talking to you. Good video love it. I do suggest better video and sound quality for sure. This content is solid. Keep UA-cam up with your simple mods and how you did them or even a hands on walk through!
Thank you for taking the time to watch the video man, I do appreciate it. As far as better video and audio quality, it's in the works but all in good time. I don't make much off the videos I make and untill it starts really paying out I have to set aside the extra cash to do so. 👍
Hey man I got a 1996 gmc 1500 6.5 turbo. Just recently added a turbomaster to the turbo and blocked off the vacum line. Now I just wanna get rid of the pump is there anything else I need to do. Just remove the bolts take it out and get a smaller belt is that all?
Yes, you should be able to just unbolt the pump and install the smaller belt
@@JessePelkey1 awesome just did it thx for the vid man
@@joepawlu9523 awesome man, and thank you for watching 👍 I appreciate it
Does the HX 35 and 40 use a vacuum pump or manual wastegate?
So I recently picked up a mostly stock 95 K2500 and am going through the list. Can you tell me a definitive serpentine belt size for this delete on the 95? I keep hearing get a belt for a 92 or 93 but can’ seem to determine actual length.
I just got a belt for a 6.2 worked for me
I bought one of those over priced manual waste gates but couldn’t push more boost without a tune because I have a 96 and it would go into limp. Then I put a super 40 turbo on anyway 🤦🏼♂️
And I hope I don’t jinx my self but I do not have studs and have seen 24 psi
@@willjohnson211 That sounds like you are shaking hands with danger there bud i'd toss some studs in her pronto before it costs you more then a few hundred
An the engine handle the extra boost? Also how can I do this just to get my truck to read boost but not over boost?
Without head studs the engine can handle about 15psi 13to be safe. With head studs and a few other supporting mods I have seen 45psi. Just to get your truck to read boost all you have to do is install a boost pressure gauge onto the upper intake horn and mount it in an area of your choice. Avoid the over boost by setting the tension of the wastegate spring.
@@JessePelkey1 Thank you! You can check out the videos I make on our channel. (Repair clinic Nut & Bolts). I explain things about appliances and do part replacement videos.
can I tie the waste gate open ?
I am actually uploading a new video on this very topic as I send this message to you if you are interested in watching it. It will be uploaded tonight very shortly 👍 couple things to consider before you just tie it open
If I put manual wastegate, do I need tunning ECM? Thanks
Only if you run into an over boost situation or plan on running higher boost in general
@@JessePelkey1 I understand. Thank you
What would cause the turbo to be having a large amount of oil comming out of the inlet side? The side that pumps air?
The internal seals are completely blown. I would verify that it's the turbo itself that's leaking before rebuilding or replacing, if you're just experiencing like oil residue on the face of the inlet for the turbo and going into the intake a very well could be the PCV that is routed into the intake. If you were able to reroute the PCV out into the atmosphere and the Turbo doesn't leak and it was the PCV all along.
Do you have to remove the motor to put head studs in it
No, I actually have a head gaskets series on my wife's truck where I show you don't have to remove the motor to install head studs 👍
dam dude u got some clean hands! :p u outta see my hands i think my skins turned to some kinda leather i dont mind tho in fact its like always havin a pair of gloves on lol
That was your first thought? How clean my hands were?
@jesse hey man are you from TN? I just got 1999 GMC Savana 3500 6.5 liter desial van looking for any tips some bullet profiting has already been done but yeha
I currently live in Madisonville Tennessee yes, what all has been done to the ol girl so far?
@@JessePelkey1 we'll opon further looking looks like just fuel driver module relocate but no heat sink on the back of it so I was going to get that aluminum one. Looks like nothing more than I can see was power company van looks to be well maintained. I wrote a list to get.. Oil switch relay harness ,water pump 130 gph, lifter pump not stock, manual waste gate , thermostats, 4 inch exhaust as well as intake , what else am I missing ? It runs but apparently has stalling issue lol I haven't seen it do that yet and pmd doesn't look old but still may need one again not sure . I will change all filters as well I just got yesterday haha it's a heavy duty van I love it
@@JessePelkey1 I'm over here in east Tennessee by Cosby and Gatlinburg
@@tdirt1461 not very far at all. About an hour, hour and a half drive from me
@jesse pelkey I'm having issue fuel driver module replaced already it seems to run for awhile then shuts off after awhile while driving lift pumps been replaced as well the driver module seems to get about 130 degrees then shuts off what could cause this ? And is the solinoid on back of injection pump replaced separately? And is a resistor required for that driver module the new one didn't have one but I ordered it
Thanks
So what does it do when your vacuum fails?
When the vacuum pump fails it will not allow the turbo to operate, resulting in a loss of power and run for too long that way it will eventually either melt down the turbo or meltdown Pistons because your egts are getting too hot. Not to mention you're wasting a ton of fuel because the engine isn't getting a proper air fuel mixture and you'll have very excessive black smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
I'm deleting my vacuum pump 1996 k1500 6.5 and hopefully a super 60 turbo at some point
Great turbo potion 👍
@@JessePelkey1 I figure for the price of a new HX40 that is not a China one for just a bit more I can jump up too supper 60 and have all that whistle I like.
@@JessePelkey1 I just hope either my currently great running (slightl knock/possible tick sound) 1996 block is crack free or my 97 block in my parts truck (motor supposedly no good) I'm hoping between the two one will be good for a full rebuild.
@@taylorh3930 I've got my fingers crossed for ya buddy
You need the Vacuum Pump to pump the Diesel because the 6.5 does not pump fuel like a Gas engine. Since you need the Vacuum Pump how does it run without it then? What do you replace the vacuum pump with to still pump fuel? I dont get it🤔
You are incorrect sir, the 6.5l turbo diesel is equipped from the factory with a lift pump which pushes the fuel up to the injection pump. The 6.5l runs just fine without a vacuum pump so long as you install a manual wastegate instead of the vacuum actuated one. I would suggest a bit more research
@@JessePelkey1 Sorry man Im not familiar with these engines. I was just referring to what you said in the Video.
@Jean-Andre Sonnenschein your good man, I didn't mean to sound ignorant and if I came off that way I do apologize. I do have a video on the entire fueling system if you would like to learn about it in further detail.
@@JessePelkey1 Thanks. Im gonna Check it out👍🏻
@@Jean_1999 no problem, any question just let me know and I'll try to get to them as soon as I can
Can I use a wiring harness from a 1998 Chevy 65 to a 1995 in the engine compartment
They will not be the same, you would have to change the ECM as well as a few other things in order to use the harness out of the 98 to put into the 95.
@@JessePelkey1 okay thank you for that
@@timothyfarley8590 no problem
I like all of the videos that you made wish you would come up with some more
@timothyfarley8590 they are on the way man, unfortunately I have had a lot of family issues go down this year and I felt it best to take some time away from the camera. I will be making a video explaining another of this here in the coming weeks as well as the plans for next year
What size belt do you run after deleting the vacuum pump?
Bud, the part numbers for the belts are in the video. Both for the newer and older style set ups for the 6.5l
@@JessePelkey1 sorry, thought I watched the whole thing. Just remembered I got a call while watching.
@@richardcrook6816 it's all good
Thanks for your video’s! I misplaced my books and the videos have been a great help. Especially since doing an EGR delete while swapping motors in my 1994. Thanks again!
@@richardcrook6816 no problem man 👍
can u hook the boost gage directly to the turbo
You can if you want to, I'd rather read boost levels at the intake manifold to get the most accurate reading of what's going into my engine but that's just me
What head is that?
Do you have a belt diagram with out the vac pump ?
93
I run an hx35 cummins turbo 25 psi and dosen't blow head gaskets and I don't have any tunes just marine injectors and a cranked up pump it's a 1998
I have a 99 6.5 black smoke
Can I contact you?
Yes
Couldn’t you also use a electric vacuum pump
If your heart so desires I don't see why not
Imagine if they still made the climate control parts out of solid steel levers :)
Then you could use the vacuum pump for vacuum operated windshield wipers (lol).
cant be I have a vac pump but no turbo
Hey Jesse can you tell what block from the engine number ?Just in case here is mine # P336697 its the original engine in my RV year 2003, side mount Turbo , P32 Chev workhorse chassis
Thanks Mate
Rob
NSW
Australia
I just redlined mine to 4000 for a bit... thinks it's all good? Still starts and drives good... lolz oops
I mean, so long as your not loosing or burning any fluids and everything seems to be working as it should, you probably alright.
HI THERE HOW AOBUT A ELETRIC VACUM PUMP LIKE ON THE FORD AND RAM 350 DIESEL.. I THINK IT WILL WORK.. WITH BOOST GAUGE..
If you would like to take the time in order to make it work man have at it. 👍 I don't see why it wouldn't work if installed correctly