i just completed this job with normal hand tools, you don’t have too have the special wrenches, just takes more time with a normal crescent wrench on the injector pump, lines,
Great video…glad you posted it. My pump failed one year ago next month. After tear down and finding a shop in Jacksonville Florida my replacement pump was found defective… so it was tear down and replace round two. So, after watching your video I found that my initial install was done correctly and installing it a second time was done right as well. Question, where will I find the timing adjustment tool and the seat of wrenches needed to tighten the pump to the engine block. Thanks,
Hi there . Working on a 1996 chevy 3500 turbo diesel.. under the hood looks exactly the same.. any suggestions on cleaning the turbo fan mine is pitch black.. maybe that's why it's stalling out?. It stalls out everyday while I'm driving but starts right back up. Mostly stalls when coming to a red light. One time it stalled It wouldn't start back up so had to Uber get new fuel filter then it started.. but keeps stalling , and I changed the fuel filter again .. also when it has full tank it runs better. But still stalls but if have quarter tank forget about it ,stalls every 2 mins but starts right back up.. Help lol.. btw great video! You are the man! Best mechanical video I've ever seen you really explain things well and obviously know what your doing.. Great job thanks for the break down.. and props to the camera guy un real
Thanks. Kinda normal for everything on a diesel to accumulate soot. Turbo issues don't typically cause a stall, just loss of power. For random stalling I'd first suspect the PMD/FSD, followed second by fuel supply being interrupted from the tank (either a clogged sock on the sending unit or air getting in somewhere along the line to the injection pump).
Hello once again.. can you advise some of the probable cause to bleeding difficulties. I’ve cleaned each fuel line prior to assembling. Bleed air at fuel filter. Cracked fuel line close to injector pump and furthest from. Still no fuel.. How critical is timing… if off, does it effect bleeding the lines. Thanks,
Timing does have a bearing, but marking the position of the previously working IP as I showed is typically enough to get the engine to start. If you've used the rough timing mark, and there's still no fuel at any of the lines I'd verify that there's fuel going from the fuel filter manager into the IP (lift pumps can check out without warning). If there's fuel going into the IP, rough timing is in place, but still no fuel at any cylinder line, then it's likely a bad IP or PMD. This is assuming that you correctly attached the PMD, and attached the IP to the timing chain sprocket in the front of the engine of course (thru the oil filler tube area). That has an alignment factor as well.
@ DrSchock, it was December 2023 when my initial injector pump failed that I became familiar with its history and the problem General Motors faced when releasing the Standydine Injector Pump. I understand a major recall had been conducted to correcting the problems. I own a set of the General Motors shop manuals (the four volume books, light blue in color) and became very familiar with what to expect and the job did not appear to be too complicated, patience and time is most important. The failed pump was shipped to a diesel injector pump company located in Jacksonville Florida to be reconditioned. Once returned and installed the difficulty of bleeding fuel to the cylinders became apparent so replacement of the lift pump to ensuring fuel was traveling through the fuel filter, up to the injection pump was operated properly.. Also, the fuel return line at front of the injection pump was open and a consistent amount of fuel traveled through the line as well. After contacting the Jacksonville location the pump was returned and replaced… I was told the pump was the problem and resolved. Now having to install the injector pump for a second time, I’ve become very familiar with the process. Unfortunately, what I failed to do was marking the location for timing. Sorry to have dragged you through so much information but wanted to know the history of what’s been happening and before my going back to the facility that rebuilt it if there is something that I’m missing… how critical is the timing as it relates to the bleeding process. Also, are you aware of the procedure (if any) of bench testing injection pumps. Question - Should I concern myself about the amount of fuel that is in the tank and if aged more than 8 months. Thanks,
Testing a Stanadyne IP _cannot_ be done on a "bench" without a specialized injection pump testing apparatus. A local diesel shop that has any history rebuilding Stanadyne units would be the best bet to have such equipment. I wouldn't worry about the fuel you described too much, unless water intrusion has occurred. Sounds like you confirmed fuel flow thru the input line to the IP, but you should still verify the pressure coming in from the lift pump as well. Your mistake in not recording a static timing mark before removing the original IP was a critical one. It should be recoverable, but will take considerable trial and error (and infinite patience with those three adjusting nuts on the pump flange) to arrive close enough on the timing for the vehicle to even attempt to start. Fuel will pressurized thru the hard fuel lines by the injection pump of course. But as far as the relationship to bleeding the hard fuel lines to the injectors, I couldn't say with certainty.
There are many failure points that can lead to IP replacement being required on these old 6.5L diesel engines. Several are DTC driven and will have diagnostic trees outlined in the GM service manual, landing at _replace injection pump_ clearly. But most of the problems will not have any DTCs generated, making diagnosis more subjective. There is no one test applicable to this unit unfortunately. What I can recommend are tests to eliminate other, less expensive, components first. For stalling and hard starting, check that the fuel lift pump is delivering appropriate PSI to the IP. If not, it could be the lift pump, or a clogged up fuel strainer in the tank issue instead. Check that air is not being injected into the fuel line leading into the IP. This can be checked by substituting clear fuel hose from the fuel filter manager into the IP. And of course, as always with the 6.5L, make sure that the PMD is not the problem (these modules rarely survive more than a couple of years before failing internally).
just so you know the time set function is so you know how close the timing is to do the timing off set relearn , or "TDCO" FOR SHORT, witch you did not do in the video so your timing is not saved in the pcm. the actual relearn can be done with your gm scan tool you have or the koko method. good video though, keep it up. id like to see your tdco numbers in another video
Thanks, but that's actually contrary to GM. As I showed in the GM service manual for this model year, GM specifically states *you DO NOT* need to perform a TDCO when replacing just the IP. You ONLY need to perform the TDCO when replacing the crankshaft sensor, or other parts listed. I have another video on setting TDCO, which is a different procedure than time set but similar. You should not perform both procedures, according to GM. Both values are programmed into the PCM by the GM Tech2 tool for either procedure tho.
To each his own. I've been doing GM restorations & service for over 35 years and prefer to only follow the written genuine OEM engineering guidance. ;-)
Dr Shock. I have a 1994 k1500 6.5 turbo diesel 4l80e that revs out of control for a few seconds then falls back to idle and almost dies “sometimes it does “ then revs again sometimes to 2500 rpm and has gone as high as 3500 rpm. Do you have any insight into what may be causing this?
@@DrShock I talked with him on the phone recently about this and on his advice purchased a rebuilt injection pump from “ diesel site “ and it still does the same thing. He sold his business to “Diesel Site “. He told me that he had so many pmd failures that he had started building his own.
Help! Hey I just did this job and after I put it all together and tried test starting it and it started but all the sudden the rpm gauge isn’t working now can anyone point me in the right direction? I do not have the serpentine belt on and have just test started it a few times I’m just wondering if I didn’t plug in something on the harness or if a fuse blew or is it simply because the belt isn’t on? s there any other reason I’m un aware of? Well I hope you reply cause I have no one else too help me figure this out just UA-cam I’m gonna rewatch this video for the mean time and see what I did wrong. Doesn’t make any sense. It was working before lol
@@DrShock thanks haha can I ask you a few more questions? I changed the injector pump out because it had a high idle, touchy throttle and a hard start, when I got the truck it didn’t run I bought it for a thousand bucks, and I changed the pmd and wound up using some starting fluid too get her started cause it seemed as if it wasn’t fueling, I switched out the pmd a few times with another one and evntually it just decided too idle. It all seemed like it was running great and when I went too put it in reverse and drive it for the first time, it had no power whatsoever honestly if I stepped on the gas it would just start too die but then I got it too stop doing that and too somewhat drive normal by doing a Tdc relearn. The person I got it from said he got a new crank sensor and he never actually replaced it but when I did the tdc relearn it was like bam! behold the touchy throttle and high idle issue, but I could drive it and it wouldn’t die out except I really did like the fact that when it started too idle high it went into gear really rough and shifted hard, but before all of this before the relearn it went into gear smooth and shifted nice so I decided I was gonna do whatever it took to fix these problems. I mean I could’ve kept driving it but I didn’t wanna destroy the transmission obviously every time I went into reverse with the high idle it just felt like I was breaking something. But anyways I tried replacing the optical sensor and that didn’t work and now I have replaced the whole injector pump and it seems the same or at least it sounds like it because the tach isn’t currently working lol, but I’ll put the new belt on and fix that… When I got the truck it came with a brand new pmd. But the “new crank sensor” isnt even plugged in, it’s had the old one plugged in this whole time so I wonder if I plug in the new crank sensor and do a Tdc relearn on the truck, do you think it would fix the idle issue or touchy throttle? this is a-lot of information I appreciate the reply you already left me, and I hope you’re having a great night man! Thanks for taking your time too reply👌
You got a whole lot going on there. A scan tool that can display live data can really help avoid the guess work and firing the parts cannon. You'll need one to redo the engine timing anyway, which is required on the 6.5L whenever you replace the IP. Once you have the timing dialed in, you can use the scan tool to debug the high idle. I'd start with watching the coolant temps (there are two sensors one for the gauge and a different one for the PCM). Then you can compare the tachometer, driven off the alternator, with the RPM the PCM is reading which is coming of the CKP sensor. There can be several causes for a high idle, you'll have to triage them one at a time. The GM service manual is a must have for this as well, you can buy an used hardcopy set from the links I have in the video description. Or rent a three day weekend online view only from GM at www.acdelcotds.com.
@@DrShock thank you! Is there any other scanners that might work? I seen they sell some at autozone but they aren’t a tech 2 gm specific scanner and I don’t believe they have a “time set” function that I am aware of, they are touch screen and could definitely watch live data but lf the scanner from auto zone doesn’t work, do you think I could borrow one from a shop or a dealership?
Finding an aftermarket scanner that supports _Time Set_ will require some back and forth with the manufacturer (the seller typically cannot provide such technical information) as well as perusing forum posts around the 6.5L diesel engines. I hear alot of good feedback on _Launch_ firmware based tools, but no first hand experience.
You appear to be a very "by the book person" which is fine, but I am curious if your book shows the large bolt that torques the two gears to the front of the camshaft as 75ft lbs, or 126ft lbs? Because there are several books that have this spec incorrectly listed as 75ft lbs. If you look at the size of the bolt, you would assume its 75ft lbs, but its not enough torque, and will allow the cam key to shear. If you would like to check the validity of my statement, grab a gm book, you will see the torque listed as 75ft lbs on 6A6-19, but properly listed as 126ft lbs on 6A6-34. I said that to say this, the book isn't perfect, even the GM ones. When you turn time set on, its a way to monitor the pump position yes, but the computer isn't actually learning anything at that point. Its when you exit time set, you will barely see for a split second the number that the ecm learns when you turn time set off. At this point you will hear the tone of the engine change. Regardless of what the information/book says, if you perform time set, and exit at 3.5-3.7 degrees, turning around and performing tdc learn - which causes the computer to monitor the pumps position to the engine while running for several seconds, it will generate a new TDC number based on the time set number. This is a way for you to verify you have correctly performed the procedure. You can go back to time set, and change the number a tenth or two, and do tdc offset again and see how it reflects in the number. Just trying to help provide some understanding if you are a fan of working on these.
Thanks, yes there can definitely be errata in OEM service information. For physical books I recommend that they be kept updated thru the service bulletin system which will periodically issue replacement pages and corrections while the vehicle series is in production for most OEMs. Another approach is to use the online version. Both are available, for a fee, for GM vehicles from www.acdelcotds.com. On using the TDCO relearn function to verify your work during an initial time set, yes, that _optionally_ can bring someone reassurance.
You’ll still need a Tech2 or Tech2Win tool, but with the OBD1 connector on the cable end. The Tech2 menu layout may vary from what I showed for 1995 and prior. But both Time Set and TDC Learn menu options should be there somewhere. You could also use the older Tech1 tool for 94-95 trucks.
i just completed this job with normal hand tools, you don’t have too have the special wrenches, just takes more time with a normal crescent wrench on the injector pump, lines,
Thanks for sharing
Amazing videos as always, thank you 🙏
Great video…glad you posted it. My pump failed one year ago next month. After tear down and finding a shop in Jacksonville Florida my replacement pump was found defective… so it was tear down and replace round two.
So, after watching your video I found that my initial install was done correctly and installing it a second time was done right as well.
Question, where will I find the timing adjustment tool and the seat of wrenches needed to tighten the pump to the engine block.
Thanks,
Thanks, I put links in the video description for the tools and documentation I used in this video.
Hi there . Working on a 1996 chevy 3500 turbo diesel.. under the hood looks exactly the same.. any suggestions on cleaning the turbo fan mine is pitch black.. maybe that's why it's stalling out?. It stalls out everyday while I'm driving but starts right back up. Mostly stalls when coming to a red light. One time it stalled It wouldn't start back up so had to Uber get new fuel filter then it started.. but keeps stalling , and I changed the fuel filter again .. also when it has full tank it runs better. But still stalls but if have quarter tank forget about it ,stalls every 2 mins but starts right back up.. Help lol.. btw great video! You are the man! Best mechanical video I've ever seen you really explain things well and obviously know what your doing.. Great job thanks for the break down.. and props to the camera guy un real
Thanks. Kinda normal for everything on a diesel to accumulate soot. Turbo issues don't typically cause a stall, just loss of power. For random stalling I'd first suspect the PMD/FSD, followed second by fuel supply being interrupted from the tank (either a clogged sock on the sending unit or air getting in somewhere along the line to the injection pump).
Really amazing.You certainly earned your money.! Do you know any mechanics that can do this in Chicago?
Hello once again.. can you advise some of the probable cause to bleeding difficulties. I’ve cleaned each fuel line prior to assembling.
Bleed air at fuel filter.
Cracked fuel line close to injector pump and furthest from. Still no fuel..
How critical is timing… if off, does it effect bleeding the lines.
Thanks,
Timing does have a bearing, but marking the position of the previously working IP as I showed is typically enough to get the engine to start. If you've used the rough timing mark, and there's still no fuel at any of the lines I'd verify that there's fuel going from the fuel filter manager into the IP (lift pumps can check out without warning). If there's fuel going into the IP, rough timing is in place, but still no fuel at any cylinder line, then it's likely a bad IP or PMD. This is assuming that you correctly attached the PMD, and attached the IP to the timing chain sprocket in the front of the engine of course (thru the oil filler tube area). That has an alignment factor as well.
@
DrSchock, it was December 2023 when my initial injector pump failed that I became familiar with its history and the problem General Motors faced when releasing the Standydine Injector Pump. I understand a major recall had been conducted to correcting the problems.
I own a set of the General Motors shop manuals (the four volume books, light blue in color) and became very familiar with what to expect and the job did not appear to be too complicated, patience and time is most important.
The failed pump was shipped to a diesel injector pump company located in Jacksonville Florida to be reconditioned. Once returned and installed the difficulty of bleeding fuel to the cylinders became apparent so replacement of the lift pump to ensuring fuel was traveling through the fuel filter, up to the injection pump was operated properly.. Also, the fuel return line at front of the injection pump was open and a consistent amount of fuel traveled through the line as well.
After contacting the Jacksonville location the pump was returned and replaced… I was told the pump was the problem and resolved.
Now having to install the injector pump for a second time, I’ve become very familiar with the process. Unfortunately, what I failed to do was marking the location for timing.
Sorry to have dragged you through so much information but wanted to know the history of what’s been happening and before my going back to the facility that rebuilt it if there is something that I’m missing… how critical is the timing as it relates to the bleeding process. Also, are you aware of the procedure (if any) of bench testing injection pumps.
Question
- Should I concern myself about the amount of fuel that is in the tank and if aged more than 8 months.
Thanks,
@ Alignment slot was position relatively located at the 12 o’clock position when and after the pump had been removed and re installed.
Testing a Stanadyne IP _cannot_ be done on a "bench" without a specialized injection pump testing apparatus. A local diesel shop that has any history rebuilding Stanadyne units would be the best bet to have such equipment.
I wouldn't worry about the fuel you described too much, unless water intrusion has occurred. Sounds like you confirmed fuel flow thru the input line to the IP, but you should still verify the pressure coming in from the lift pump as well.
Your mistake in not recording a static timing mark before removing the original IP was a critical one. It should be recoverable, but will take considerable trial and error (and infinite patience with those three adjusting nuts on the pump flange) to arrive close enough on the timing for the vehicle to even attempt to start. Fuel will pressurized thru the hard fuel lines by the injection pump of course. But as far as the relationship to bleeding the hard fuel lines to the injectors, I couldn't say with certainty.
Where can I get that socket used to remove lines off pump
I put links in the video description for the tools used.
Hi, what test did you perform to know the injection pump was failed?
There are many failure points that can lead to IP replacement being required on these old 6.5L diesel engines. Several are DTC driven and will have diagnostic trees outlined in the GM service manual, landing at _replace injection pump_ clearly. But most of the problems will not have any DTCs generated, making diagnosis more subjective. There is no one test applicable to this unit unfortunately.
What I can recommend are tests to eliminate other, less expensive, components first. For stalling and hard starting, check that the fuel lift pump is delivering appropriate PSI to the IP. If not, it could be the lift pump, or a clogged up fuel strainer in the tank issue instead. Check that air is not being injected into the fuel line leading into the IP. This can be checked by substituting clear fuel hose from the fuel filter manager into the IP. And of course, as always with the 6.5L, make sure that the PMD is not the problem (these modules rarely survive more than a couple of years before failing internally).
just so you know the time set function is so you know how close the timing is to do the timing off set relearn , or "TDCO" FOR SHORT, witch you did not do in the video so your timing is not saved in the pcm. the actual relearn can be done with your gm scan tool you have or the koko method. good video though, keep it up. id like to see your tdco numbers in another video
Thanks, but that's actually contrary to GM. As I showed in the GM service manual for this model year, GM specifically states *you DO NOT* need to perform a TDCO when replacing just the IP. You ONLY need to perform the TDCO when replacing the crankshaft sensor, or other parts listed. I have another video on setting TDCO, which is a different procedure than time set but similar. You should not perform both procedures, according to GM. Both values are programmed into the PCM by the GM Tech2 tool for either procedure tho.
@@DrShock you always do a tdco when the pump has been replaced I’m a ASE master tech and have done these pumps many times.
To each his own. I've been doing GM restorations & service for over 35 years and prefer to only follow the written genuine OEM engineering guidance. ;-)
@@TRUCK_TECHNICIAN what’s the Ko Ko method?
@@StyFreshsame question
What does the resonator do???
Eliminates certain air turbulence harmonics that would cause noise and helps smooth out air pressure within the turbocharged intake flow.
Hi will a tech 2 do a 95 obd1 or does it need to be a tech 1
Tech2 is the correct OEM style tool.
@ hi thanks do you know ware I will get one from but I’m based in the uk thanks
There are links in the video description for where you can still find these tools.
Dr Shock. I have a 1994 k1500 6.5 turbo diesel 4l80e that revs out of control for a few seconds then falls back to idle and almost dies “sometimes it does “ then revs again sometimes to 2500 rpm and has gone as high as 3500 rpm. Do you have any insight into what may be causing this?
Have you eliminated the PMD/FSD module as a suspect? That would be one possible cause for this type of behavior.
@@DrShock no that’s the only thing that I haven’t changed.
@@DrShock have you ever crossed paths with Bill Heath?
Not personally, but I know many have purchased from his diesel business in the past.
@@DrShock I talked with him on the phone recently about this and on his advice purchased a rebuilt injection pump from “ diesel site “ and it still does the same thing. He sold his business to “Diesel Site “. He told me that he had so many pmd failures that he had started building his own.
You really don't need those fancy wrenches for the injection pump nuts. I just did one with a standard 15mm end wrench.
Help! Hey I just did this job and after I put it all together and tried test starting it and it started but all the sudden the rpm gauge isn’t working now can anyone point me in the right direction? I do not have the serpentine belt on and have just test started it a few times I’m just wondering if I didn’t plug in something on the harness or if a fuse blew or is it simply because the belt isn’t on? s there any other reason I’m un aware of? Well I hope you reply cause I have no one else too help me figure this out just UA-cam I’m gonna rewatch this video for the mean time and see what I did wrong. Doesn’t make any sense. It was working before lol
Tachometer gauge on these engines is driven by the alternator, so you'll need to put the belt back on to have the RPM display. ;-)
@@DrShock thanks haha can I ask you a few more questions? I changed the injector pump out because it had a high idle, touchy throttle and a hard start, when I got the truck it didn’t run I bought it for a thousand bucks, and I changed the pmd and wound up using some starting fluid too get her started cause it seemed as if it wasn’t fueling, I switched out the pmd a few times with another one and evntually it just decided too idle. It all seemed like it was running great and when I went too put it in reverse and drive it for the first time, it had no power whatsoever honestly if I stepped on the gas it would just start too die but then I got it too stop doing that and too somewhat drive normal by doing a Tdc relearn. The person I got it from said he got a new crank sensor and he never actually replaced it but when I did the tdc relearn it was like bam! behold the touchy throttle and high idle issue, but I could drive it and it wouldn’t die out except I really did like the fact that when it started too idle high it went into gear really rough and shifted hard, but before all of this before the relearn it went into gear smooth and shifted nice so I decided I was gonna do whatever it took to fix these problems. I mean I could’ve kept driving it but I didn’t wanna destroy the transmission obviously every time I went into reverse with the high idle it just felt like I was breaking something. But anyways I tried replacing the optical sensor and that didn’t work and now I have replaced the whole injector pump and it seems the same or at least it sounds like it because the tach isn’t currently working lol, but I’ll put the new belt on and fix that… When I got the truck it came with a brand new pmd. But the “new crank sensor” isnt even plugged in, it’s had the old one plugged in this whole time so I wonder if I plug in the new crank sensor and do a Tdc relearn on the truck, do you think it would fix the idle issue or touchy throttle? this is a-lot of information I appreciate the reply you already left me, and I hope you’re having a great night man! Thanks for taking your time too reply👌
You got a whole lot going on there. A scan tool that can display live data can really help avoid the guess work and firing the parts cannon. You'll need one to redo the engine timing anyway, which is required on the 6.5L whenever you replace the IP. Once you have the timing dialed in, you can use the scan tool to debug the high idle. I'd start with watching the coolant temps (there are two sensors one for the gauge and a different one for the PCM). Then you can compare the tachometer, driven off the alternator, with the RPM the PCM is reading which is coming of the CKP sensor. There can be several causes for a high idle, you'll have to triage them one at a time. The GM service manual is a must have for this as well, you can buy an used hardcopy set from the links I have in the video description. Or rent a three day weekend online view only from GM at www.acdelcotds.com.
@@DrShock thank you! Is there any other scanners that might work? I seen they sell some at autozone but they aren’t a tech 2 gm specific scanner and I don’t believe they have a “time set” function that I am aware of, they are touch screen and could definitely watch live data but lf the scanner from auto zone doesn’t work, do you think I could borrow one from a shop or a dealership?
Finding an aftermarket scanner that supports _Time Set_ will require some back and forth with the manufacturer (the seller typically cannot provide such technical information) as well as perusing forum posts around the 6.5L diesel engines. I hear alot of good feedback on _Launch_ firmware based tools, but no first hand experience.
what vehicles do you own
Just an OBS pickup truck. The vehicles in my videos are customer owned.
You appear to be a very "by the book person" which is fine, but I am curious if your book shows the large bolt that torques the two gears to the front of the camshaft as 75ft lbs, or 126ft lbs? Because there are several books that have this spec incorrectly listed as 75ft lbs. If you look at the size of the bolt, you would assume its 75ft lbs, but its not enough torque, and will allow the cam key to shear. If you would like to check the validity of my statement, grab a gm book, you will see the torque listed as 75ft lbs on 6A6-19, but properly listed as 126ft lbs on 6A6-34. I said that to say this, the book isn't perfect, even the GM ones. When you turn time set on, its a way to monitor the pump position yes, but the computer isn't actually learning anything at that point. Its when you exit time set, you will barely see for a split second the number that the ecm learns when you turn time set off. At this point you will hear the tone of the engine change. Regardless of what the information/book says, if you perform time set, and exit at 3.5-3.7 degrees, turning around and performing tdc learn - which causes the computer to monitor the pumps position to the engine while running for several seconds, it will generate a new TDC number based on the time set number. This is a way for you to verify you have correctly performed the procedure. You can go back to time set, and change the number a tenth or two, and do tdc offset again and see how it reflects in the number. Just trying to help provide some understanding if you are a fan of working on these.
Thanks, yes there can definitely be errata in OEM service information. For physical books I recommend that they be kept updated thru the service bulletin system which will periodically issue replacement pages and corrections while the vehicle series is in production for most OEMs. Another approach is to use the online version. Both are available, for a fee, for GM vehicles from www.acdelcotds.com. On using the TDCO relearn function to verify your work during an initial time set, yes, that _optionally_ can bring someone reassurance.
Thanks for the video. My truck is a 1995 with obd1, would you know if the timing process is the same?
You’ll still need a Tech2 or Tech2Win tool, but with the OBD1 connector on the cable end. The Tech2 menu layout may vary from what I showed for 1995 and prior. But both Time Set and TDC Learn menu options should be there somewhere. You could also use the older Tech1 tool for 94-95 trucks.
Old video?
Nope. Old truck tho.
Are you a gm mechanic?
I prefer working on GM vehicles yes. But my day job is as an engineer, these side gig projects are just what I do on my own time.