I love the fluidamper on my 6.2. I added it in the spring and it made a noticeable difference. My old balancer was still together (although it was old) so it was a very nice mod.
Awesome video. Can't wait till you start on tow rig. Love the Instruction videos and what needs to be done to keep our trucks running better then new. And running forever. Thanks and keep up the great work. 👍
Just subscribed as I too own a 6.5. Bought mine new in 94 and have done just about every add on that will keep it on the road for years to come. Looking forward to your build videos. 👍
Have a forged crank ground and that resolves the GM DD6.5s issue made because of bean counters. Id rather have a steel crank pulley for corrosion reduction
Great info! I'm subbed and will be watching so I can make sure I know how to keep my 6.5 Suburban on the road for a long time. Plus I'm excited to see the power you get out of the race truck.
Great video. A Fluid Damper, an engine bypass filter, a fuel additive, and High quality Synthetic gear oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid and engine oil, will give many extra years to the vehicle.
That harmonic balance is an issue even in small 4cylinder car engines. I have a 2006 1.6 liter motor that started running crappy about a year and a half ago. Took it to the dealer and yup, the balancer was literally starting to disintegrate its rubber isolation layer. Dealer replaced it and the rubber engine mount and all is well, knock on wood. High temperature environments wreak havoc with those rubber filled balancers according to the shop manager. One issue I have found with the HUMMVE is heat. Highly recommended to replace the stock hydraulic driven fan with a high volume twin electric fan system. Two benefits 1, keeps the temperature down significantly. 2, one less hydraulic driven device that could fail and take out the hydra boost brakes and the power steering pump and steering box. ( had a 78 Olds diesel to gas conversion done back in the day, kept the hydra boost brakes. Two years later the hydra boost brake box failed, took out pump and steering box, not a fun repair.)
I had an Olds diesel with the hydra boost brakes. I mounted a hydraulic filter, about the size of the engine oil filter. I also kept the oil fresh by replacing some every oil change. It worked great.
@@tarquineous oh do I know! I had a 78 Olds Cutlas 4 door slant back that I bought with a bad Diesel engine, replace it with a 73 Olds 350 Rocket V8, was a screamer of a car! My mistake was not knowing I could put an inline filter in the power steering system which of course Fed the hydra boost brakes, something fell apart in the system and I had to change all three items in the car, quite expensive in labor, parts were reasonable. I do wish I had kept that car, was a comfortable long haul driver!
If i new what i new now about 6.5s and i had the cash to buy a fluiddampre i totaly would. But me as a Canadian is 800 anywhere i go and im wasnt going to be spending that money on a HB. The crank pulley from factory has the rubber insulation for a reason, to dampen vibrations. The factory wouldt have gone out of the way to do all of that engeneering if it didnt matter. And i have had terrible experience myself, i instaled a AcDelco HB and Leroys billet pulley and every 5000kms or so id go thru a belt. Danm anoying trying to figure out what it was. So after a WHOLE BUNCH of troubleshooting i finnally swapped out leroys to a OEM NOS pulley and it has worked great for me for that last 125 000kms (both stock replacements). End of the day fluidampre is great if you got the cash, OEM works just as well if you dont have the cash just checkup on it every oil change. And leroys pulley, well you know what i think of that garbage.
I was told that it was the harmonic balancer also but I also heard that lowering the compression to 18 to 1 also helps because it’s the high compression that puts a lot of force on the crank and causes the mains to break
The high compression is needed to help with the combustion process in the IDI engines especially, but diesels in general. The lower compression can make them harder to start in the winter. I would recommend for just about everyone to keep the stock compression except for a .010 thicker head gasket. On my next racetruck engine build, I do plan on lowering compression to deal with a very high amount of boost
Great video I love watching you I wish I had all of your knowledge but obviously you devoted my time to it that I have. When I bought my 65 Dooley 12 years ago if I was making an awful racket it was that pulley. I really want to get that fluid damper for mine also but I don’t really have an extra $500 at the moment as I am retired now and on a fixed income but I do plan on doing it as soon as I can come up with the money thank you so much again I love your videos plan on watching all of them and I would love the chance to win one of your T-shirts. Thank you Joe
I think I know what makes a dependable 6.5 # one don't short cut repairs and number two don't short cut I got 561700 on my 96 engine has never been out niether has trans or rear end and I'm the only one to ever lay a wrench on it
OK I believe you... I run a 6.5L in my 1993.. with manual // but there is not much room to see? How does one "check" the fluid balancer ? how do you see anything. I agree with our logic. Waiting for your new video!
The Fluidampr is a non-maintenance item, put it on and forget about it and enjoy the benefits! As far as the stock balancer, just check the rubber for cracking/bulging/chunks missing or typically the outer ring of the balancer will work its way towards the front cover of the engine and I have on occasion seen the ring actually rub on the front cover causing a groove.
Would you recommend doing a preventive maintaince on a ‘93 6.2 diesel in a HUMMVE by replacing balancer with a fluid damper and solid pulley? Having one shipped across the pond for SAR work and want reliability from the engine.
Would love to see a dampener install on a in car engine. How long would it take and how much oil do you lose doing it and do you have to install a new seal or drop the oil pan? 99 K2500 Suburban with parts from leroy diesel.
I plan on doing an in truck video when I put the engine back in my dually! If you have the proper balancer removal/install tool, the job can be done in an hour or 2. The oil loss is very minimal, if any. I also recommend installing a new seal because out trucks are definitely not getting any younger and it is always good when installing new parts to have a new seal on a new sealing surface
Have installed the billet crank pulley, the bigger capacity water pump with the Duramax fan and relocated the PMD to the front bumper. The water pump was a game changer , this truck runs so much cooler! My next upgrade will be the lift pump and feed the beast fuel filter.
I watched a few videos and just took my time. It was about a 3 hour job from under the truck and climbing in from the top. I think it would be a little easier if you have access to a lift. @user-uo5th4uw9d
I would definitely recommend water meth to anyone that is building a tow rig! I don't know if I would build a tow rig without it! Lower egt, better fuel mileage, more power, what's not to love?
Absolutely, the HMMWV has a 8 rib belt opposed to the 6 rib belt in the pickup trucks but Leroy Diesel offers a 8 rib pulley for the HMMWV, and the Fluidampr works on any 6.2/6.5
I remember putting a 6.5 together for an old boss who cut these corners motor lasted 6 months broke the crank cause he wanted to reuse stock parts 🤦 never again
I love the fluidamper on my 6.2. I added it in the spring and it made a noticeable difference. My old balancer was still together (although it was old) so it was a very nice mod.
Totally agree..... I love my fluidamper and it was worth every penny!!! Couldn't believe how much difference it made on my 6.2!
Awesome video. Can't wait till you start on tow rig. Love the Instruction videos and what needs to be done to keep our trucks running better then new. And running forever. Thanks and keep up the great work. 👍
Thank you for this !!! Owner of a 99 GMC suburban k2500 / 2 seater ... Learning as much as I can for this build ...
Fluidamper is the go to for all engines.
Just subscribed as I too own a 6.5. Bought mine new in 94 and have done just about every add on that will keep it on the road for years to come. Looking forward to your build videos. 👍
My '94 K1500 only has 61k. But I'll get to those next year.
Leroy is great, helps me a lot. I never owned a diesel until last year.
Leroy is definitely a great help, lots of knowledge!
I’m really excited to find out if our locally hated GM IDIs Will finally be able to compete with the 6.9/7.3 IDI as far as high-performance goes.
Have a forged crank ground and that resolves the GM DD6.5s issue made because of bean counters. Id rather have a steel crank pulley for corrosion reduction
Great info! I'm subbed and will be watching so I can make sure I know how to keep my 6.5 Suburban on the road for a long time. Plus I'm excited to see the power you get out of the race truck.
Thank you for the subscription! Share where you can and get more people to subscribe so we can get the info to as many people as possible!
Great video. A Fluid Damper, an engine bypass filter, a fuel additive, and High quality Synthetic gear oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid and engine oil, will give many extra years to the vehicle.
That harmonic balance is an issue even in small 4cylinder car engines. I have a 2006 1.6 liter motor that started running crappy about a year and a half ago. Took it to the dealer and yup, the balancer was literally starting to disintegrate its rubber isolation layer. Dealer replaced it and the rubber engine mount and all is well, knock on wood. High temperature environments wreak havoc with those rubber filled balancers according to the shop manager. One issue I have found with the HUMMVE is heat. Highly recommended to replace the stock hydraulic driven fan with a high volume twin electric fan system. Two benefits 1, keeps the temperature down significantly. 2, one less hydraulic driven device that could fail and take out the hydra boost brakes and the power steering pump and steering box. ( had a 78 Olds diesel to gas conversion done back in the day, kept the hydra boost brakes. Two years later the hydra boost brake box failed, took out pump and steering box, not a fun repair.)
I had an Olds diesel with the hydra boost brakes. I mounted a hydraulic filter, about the size of the engine oil filter. I also kept the oil fresh by replacing some every oil change. It worked great.
@@tarquineous oh do I know! I had a 78 Olds Cutlas 4 door slant back that I bought with a bad Diesel engine, replace it with a 73 Olds 350 Rocket V8, was a screamer of a car! My mistake was not knowing I could put an inline filter in the power steering system which of course Fed the hydra boost brakes, something fell apart in the system and I had to change all three items in the car, quite expensive in labor, parts were reasonable. I do wish I had kept that car, was a comfortable long haul driver!
Great video. Most of the problems on 6.5s in my opinion are from lack of maintenance.
I completely agree! Upgrade a few select items that the factory left room for improvement on, and maintain them and they will run for a very long time
If i new what i new now about 6.5s and i had the cash to buy a fluiddampre i totaly would. But me as a Canadian is 800 anywhere i go and im wasnt going to be spending that money on a HB. The crank pulley from factory has the rubber insulation for a reason, to dampen vibrations. The factory wouldt have gone out of the way to do all of that engeneering if it didnt matter. And i have had terrible experience myself, i instaled a AcDelco HB and Leroys billet pulley and every 5000kms or so id go thru a belt. Danm anoying trying to figure out what it was. So after a WHOLE BUNCH of troubleshooting i finnally swapped out leroys to a OEM NOS pulley and it has worked great for me for that last 125 000kms (both stock replacements).
End of the day fluidampre is great if you got the cash, OEM works just as well if you dont have the cash just checkup on it every oil change.
And leroys pulley, well you know what i think of that garbage.
I was told that it was the harmonic balancer also but I also heard that lowering the compression to 18 to 1 also helps because it’s the high compression that puts a lot of force on the crank and causes the mains to break
The high compression is needed to help with the combustion process in the IDI engines especially, but diesels in general. The lower compression can make them harder to start in the winter. I would recommend for just about everyone to keep the stock compression except for a .010 thicker head gasket. On my next racetruck engine build, I do plan on lowering compression to deal with a very high amount of boost
How do we run an engine on a stand w/ out all the wiring
Great video I love watching you I wish I had all of your knowledge but obviously you devoted my time to it that I have. When I bought my 65 Dooley 12 years ago if I was making an awful racket it was that pulley.
I really want to get that fluid damper for mine also but I don’t really have an extra $500 at the moment as I am retired now and on a fixed income but I do plan on doing it as soon as I can come up with the money thank you so much again I love your videos plan on watching all of them and I would love the chance to win one of your T-shirts. Thank you Joe
I think I know what makes a dependable 6.5 # one don't short cut repairs and number two don't short cut I got 561700 on my 96 engine has never been out niether has trans or rear end and I'm the only one to ever lay a wrench on it
Damper...absorbs force.
Dapeners...gets things wet
OK I believe you... I run a 6.5L in my 1993.. with manual // but there is not much room to see? How does one "check" the fluid balancer ? how do you see anything. I agree with our logic. Waiting for your new video!
The Fluidampr is a non-maintenance item, put it on and forget about it and enjoy the benefits! As far as the stock balancer, just check the rubber for cracking/bulging/chunks missing or typically the outer ring of the balancer will work its way towards the front cover of the engine and I have on occasion seen the ring actually rub on the front cover causing a groove.
Would you recommend doing a preventive maintaince on a ‘93 6.2 diesel in a HUMMVE by replacing balancer with a fluid damper and solid pulley? Having one shipped across the pond for SAR work and want reliability from the engine.
Would love to see a dampener install on a in car engine. How long would it take and how much oil do you lose doing it and do you have to install a new seal or drop the oil pan? 99 K2500 Suburban with parts from leroy diesel.
I plan on doing an in truck video when I put the engine back in my dually! If you have the proper balancer removal/install tool, the job can be done in an hour or 2. The oil loss is very minimal, if any. I also recommend installing a new seal because out trucks are definitely not getting any younger and it is always good when installing new parts to have a new seal on a new sealing surface
Have installed the billet crank pulley, the bigger capacity water pump with the Duramax fan and relocated the PMD to the front bumper. The water pump was a game changer , this truck runs so much cooler! My next upgrade will be the lift pump and feed the beast fuel filter.
How was the install for the crank pulley ?
I watched a few videos and just took my time. It was about a 3 hour job from under the truck and climbing in from the top. I think it would be a little easier if you have access to a lift.
@user-uo5th4uw9d
@@mikefisher8503 thanks a lot bro ! About to do mine
@@AlfredoDiaz-o3v good luck!
Had to watch at double speed but thanks.
I think I saw a Briggs and Stratton logo stamped on one of the spokes on that pulley. Did Briggs and Stratton make parts for General Motors??
I saw that as well! I am not sure but I would love to know!
Do you have any experience with the roller rockers they sell for the 6.2/6.5? I have a set but not building till next year
I personally do not yet, but I plan to run them in both the race truck and the tow rig!
Worth doing. Kind of acts like a bigger cam in that you can get more air in/out running them. leroydiesel.com/products/engine-products/
Saving up to put them on my motorhome 16000 pds needs all the help it can get! Appreciate your company and experience!!
Is water meth a must for a reliable tow rig?
I would definitely recommend water meth to anyone that is building a tow rig! I don't know if I would build a tow rig without it! Lower egt, better fuel mileage, more power, what's not to love?
Can I put that on a military Hmmwv 6.5?
Absolutely, the HMMWV has a 8 rib belt opposed to the 6 rib belt in the pickup trucks but Leroy Diesel offers a 8 rib pulley for the HMMWV, and the Fluidampr works on any 6.2/6.5
I remember putting a 6.5 together for an old boss who cut these corners motor lasted 6 months broke the crank cause he wanted to reuse stock parts 🤦 never again
Definitely can't be cutting corners! Do it the right way once and it will last forever!
Smart juy
Qwantuz HP? ?
They make a fluidampner for a lly?
They sure do!
599 ish just checked