Its an IDI, non intercooled and comes factory with an insufficient charger/lift pump out the gate........why people argue the intercooler is beyond me. Your leaving power and efficiency on the table without it. Well done!
And like my 97 C 3500 there is no smog equipment on it no DEF fluid to put in it makes it even better engines last a lot longer than these new trucks they’re less expensive to work on the parts are less expensive especially fuel injectors yeah when I lived in California some idiot tried to steal it used ether on it because it was hard to start because the optic sensor was giving me fits they blew the head gasket out of it with ether I change the engines to the P 400 nice engine but still it has no smog equipment that makes it even better and the fact that the people tried to steal the truck didn’t get very far about 50 feet because it wouldn’t run or stay running because the injector pump was messed up not runs good real good
Forever thankful for all the information and experience you’ve shared with the 6.2/6.5 community, a bit sad to hear that you are now going another direction but totally understandable. Your information have helped me a lot with my ongoing project and saved me a bunch of $. Thank you and I will be looking forward for your future projects!
Just found your page. I started out in a GM dealership in 94 turning wrenches. I cut my teeth on the 6.5. I love the C/K body style and I do like the 6.5 as well. Its not a bad engine but does need a little help to make it better. Good video
I discovered your channel, its awesome so far. However, i wanna get into a 6.5 diesel, mostly because i work as a military technician and i work on military 6.5L both turbo and nonturbo models! Hate em when they dont work/not well maintained, love em when they are running with no issues. Ive grown to love em and hate em but i wanna get atleast a civilian model 6.5 and i have some ideas that i wanna do to make a bit more efficient along with some more power. Watching your videos definitely has been what i needed to have motivation to have one and detailed videos they are. I was once a 7.3 turbo diesel owner previously had to sell it unfortunately and i want to get back into a diesel again
Shout out to your wife or girlfriend. It's awesome that she's there with you and supporting your hobby and at least trying to be enthusiastic about things with you.
Great video. The one thing I will say is building a box/shield to minimize that hot air draw from the engine is a good idea. Obviously while you are driving it’s not going to make much of a difference but at a stop/low speed it can be dramatic. A few years back we did some testing on a 3.0 eco diesel and a 6.7 power stroke using open, closed, and partial intake boxes. When in traffic/stopped/staging IATs would climb to 165F! This was 90F over the out side temperature and didn’t take long to reach. With a full box the temperature would stay 15-25F over the out side temperature. Considering every 15F is worth about 1% power that’s considerable especially when starting off from a stop light with a big load or 1/8 mile where the first 60 really counts. Also it takes a few seconds for those IATs to start coming down even at WOT. This testing was of course done pre turbo/intercooler at the actual intake.
A box will always benefit. Just never had the time to make one and at this point caspers been retired to farm truck life. Hopefully someone picks up the torch and does more with the 6.5s than I have.
Great advice and yes I agree with you 100%. I have items listed except for the hx35, fluid damper and billet pulley. Biggest improvements are the 4” exh, intercooler with 3” intake and piping, better lift pump and decent Bosch injectors. Hx 35 and fluid damper are on the wish list for now.
I don’t really push anyone ever getting a billet pulley. Having the fluid damper and HX swap are more important than an IC from what I’ve noticed. I always do the lift pump. Exhaust. Upper intake. Turbo. Fluid damper. Then sort out a tune or IC. All depends on the user too.
Thanks again for all your assistance i got I'm working on that i have had for 20 years just wanted to make it better for sentimental reasons but like you i love the truck but have realized that it is almost not worth fixing ( it blew up about 3 years ago) and I determined to make it better 😀 👍
It’s hard when we love the truck so much. Just accepting these for what they are. Tossing on some basic upgrades and enjoying them is by far the best thing we can do!!
Some snappy advice in your video. Can't beat the body style on those 93-00 Chevys, hope too many people don't poo poo on it ha ha. One crucial upgrade you may have missed is the fuel pump external PMD cooler/heat-sink setup. I can say that as they have left many stranded including myself. Cheers
Where are you posting on those 54's? I like those trucks. A bit more partial to the early grills in that line but definetly a future build! Thanks for the info and cash savings!
We love the 6.5 . No it is not a performance motor , what it is dependable if you keep it reasonable . Go 4 inch exhaust for sure , increase the lift pump or change it every year ( i do ) , the turbo is inefficient at past 15 pounds but it works quick . Change intake for something that breathes like on here . Change the rad for something decent or just clean the one you have often . Change the oil on the regular . we get 21 mpg hauling 3000 lbs in the bed or empty . We have towed up to 14000 lbs in dump trailer , Not the truck for that .
I like that you've changed you mind about CKO turbos! 😁 I posted mine with a CKO hx35w on Facebook for about 2-3 years ago and I did get the feeling you thought i was an idiot for using that 😂 guess you where more in to "that company" at that time. I enjoy your videos, keep em going!🤘 //Tobias from Sweden
I don't have a diesel truck, I've heard both bad and good about them. I own a Chevy Silverado Z71 xcab with a 5.7 350,and it's great . I've been watching UA-cam videos about 6.2 and 6.5 diesels and I've heard that they're better on fuel than there gasoline counterparts. That better fuel economy got my interest. My truck gets about 13 or 14 mpg. I've heard that the diesels can get 20 plus mpg. I only put a 3" exhaust on my truck so that it can breathe better. It's all stock otherwise. I like to keep my vehicles stock. I'm looking for a good used 6.2 or 6.5 diesel truck and I thank you for your advice and saying that stock is great. Thank you and take care. 👍
The maintenance and upkeep doesn’t pay for itself on these. I’ve had a few half ton 4wd models and even highway cruising I got 16-17mpg on good days until winter when it would drop to 15 flat. Keep your 5.7 and enjoy it for years to come.
Great video! Very informative and a lot of good advice. Theese are great worktrucks and runs forever if you take care of them, and they sounds awesome :) Here in Sweden the 6,5s are still very popular. We have more diesel trucks than petrol ones from that generation. A really nice one can cost about $15-20000 (!).
LMAO !!! As soon as you pulled the hood release lever, I was waiting to hear if the telltale OBS hood hinge springs were gonna creak and moan. Needless to say, I’m convinced it’s not a showroom model, and I’m all ears my friend.
The truck was built out of a junk yard November 2012. It’s been everything from my daily driver to a toy. Farm truck. Experiments all conducted on it. It’s been one heck of a truck.
I think another way to cool down a 6.5 is to get an oil cooler. Dont know if they come with an oil cooler from the factory but if not thats also a way to cool the engine oil and so overall the engine.
Thanks for the info on this stuff. I decided when i got my truck i'm just gonna do a fass on mine just because I want to do 1/2 feed lines mainly just to eliminate the old stock stuff that's pushing 27 years on my 94 I'm not expecting it to run with a cummins. I got a 08 6.4 tuned for a expensive toy and i got a 7.3 with a 6 speed for the work truck role so the old 6.5 gets to do light work once i get it up to speed.
1/2” feed lines are totally not necessary on a 6.5. New 3/8s lines are more than enough. For a Fass you’ll need a 90-100gph Dmax booster pump is plenty.
u cant say the dual thermostat isnt an upgrade, idk what kinda trailers ur draggin but i also honestly dont usually get hot either, but their use to b a time when i had to sit n let n let it cool i dont kno if its necessary with the pump n fan upgrade but honestly with the later model high flow pump i wouldnt mind a little less restriction jus for the hell of it im goin to record with the flir, when i get every thing back together, and see where the heat builds up n where the hot spots really get in the block to put that rumor to rest, ill post a link when i put it up
It isn’t an upgrade. Period. You see more benefits from the pump and fan than the thermostat housing. Hell a new radiator is more worth it. I figured dragging trailers loaded between 8000-12,000lbs was a pretty good personal experience and enough to base this from. Different strokes for different folks. But I wouldn’t waste my time changing a housing that isn’t the problem.
In this video I had an air to air intercooler setup for testing installed. If you watch my newer “when to tune a 6.5” video you’ll see it without the intercooler and just the standard turbo to plenum piping. Hope that helps.
Hey bud, I'm looking at a 1997 K2500 6.5 TD w 103k for $8k right now, and I need some advice. I don't need crazy towing power, I have big block gas solutions for that, I'm looking more for a tool hauler for landscaping with maximum fuel economy, prob won't ever exceed 7k pounds towing, occasionally hauling topsoil or mulch in the bed. Any upgrades you'd recommend? The current owner said he considered a 4 inch exhaust and a tune that would allegedly add 80hp and 160fp of torque. Does that sound realistic to you, and do you think those would be smart upgrades for my use? I live in Michigan, and Michigan turnarounds in traffic make 0-60 times fairly important. Any help is SUPER appreciated bud, love the videos.
Change the oil regularly. Get a lift pump relay harness and updated lift pump from Leroy diesel or Quadstar. If it’s a 94-2000 get an optimized stock tune from Quadstar and use it for a long time. They are great farm trucks.
So what would you say about the S&B cold air intake? Worth it? Or is it a just for looks type of thing? It does look nice, they show some sort of "data" on their site about it but I was curious if its worth it? Closed off from the engine and uses the stock fender intake that comes up from the turn signal. I have not seen anybody really talk good or bad about it. What is your opinion towards it?
The S&B actually flows less than a stock K47 or the big 4” that I run. Removing the 90 degree bends is what reduces the IATs pre turbo and allows for more open flow.
im goin to record block temps with the flir when i get every thing back together, and see where the heat builds up n where the hot spots really grow in the block to put that rumor to rest, ill post a link when i put it up if its allowed, i doubt it for some reason (reposted that one part jus as a reminder)
I don’t mind you posting the link. I’ve already been here done all of this and didn’t see a massive difference that was so shocking to feel the need to change them. Happy testing!
@@gingersnapcustoms o no shit i havent come across that one that sounds like it might save me some work :p does anybody have any idea of a name or url? much appreciated
My 6.5 needs new turbo was thinking about adding inner cooler like the big equipment has trying to figure out if I need a bigger turbo to make it work. Thanks for input
A larger turbo is suggested if you work the truck often or tow frequently. The intercooler will work on a stock turbo. But you won’t see nearly the efficiency gain.
@@jamesmader5829 I had it there but my truck does not have AC. I would suggest looking into and air to water cooler. Better packaging to fit it all in.
@@gingersnapcustoms thought about it But it is the favorite farm truck Doesn’t need one more maintenance item Air to air makes some sense Already put LP on it who needs more
@@jamesmader5829 I would just do an HX35 swap. Upper intake. Lift pump. 4” Exhaust and 4” air intake. That’s all I’ve run on the farm trucks and have had no issues or shortage of power.
@@andrewbuzzell3542 I run whatever XDP or the local diesel place sells. Or junk yard pumps anymore. They are all reman anyways. Even “brand new” use a core. So I just set the timing right. Keep fuel additive in them and drive them.
I got a 95 c3500hd with a 454 and 4l80 I’m about to be getting a good 6.5 parts truck with a mechanical 6.5 and nv4500 to swap into it I’m looking to make 3-400hp ideally
400 horse is tough. You’ll need an S364 turbo and injection pump from Verlin Martin. Injectors from him. Get a set of new pro max heads. ARP head studs. You’ll want to balance the bottom end with stock pistons. Leroy diesel timing gear set. Fass lift pump from Quadstar tuning and their upper intake manifold. It’s possible but it costs a few bucks to get there.
I have a 6.5 in my tow truck and this will be my last 6.5 I'm switching back to a 454 I'd rather have to spend more on fuel and have a super reliable engine then having a 6.5 diesel
I can completely respect that. My tow rig is an 8.1L big block. Farm truck is a 6.5 and a 7.3. That said you can’t beat a healthy big block! We had a 454 dually for years and it was the best farm truck we’ve ever had.
@@gingersnapcustoms the thing I like about 6.5s is the fuel mileage like you said in the video gm neverbuilt this engine for people to make a hotrod outta them. My 6.5 has served me well but the only benefit it has over a big block is fuel mileage. great videos man
@@chasauto2932 they are good fuel savers and I can say they did that well. Give them a little more go go power takes that away pretty quick leaving you with big block fuel economy and small block horse power. That said. There’s always a balance!
I enjoyed your video I have a 6.2 in an 86 K5 Blazer I love to get exhaust manifolds a 6.5 front drive assembly for a serpentine belt opposed to having three belts that way I can keep air conditioning your videos very informative do you know if your intercooler increases your performance and by how much and if I keep my 6-2 and update it is it worth it or should I get a 65 instead let me know please and thank you
I've got the opportunity to get a 95 6.5 c3500 dually 2 wheel drive for a great price. 226k miles on it, has rebuild heads for some reason, rust free body and a service bed on it. I'd likely pull the service bed off and swap to a flatbed to haul construction materials. I mod everything I own.. should I do it, or run?
If you are doing a lot of heavy hauling or keeping it loaded down constantly I would look for a 454 big block truck. If you are willing to do a few upgrades and just be aware these are very needy engines. They it’ll work out fine. Hauled hay with my 6.5 yesterday and picked up bales.
Looks like the way i would have done a few of these. I need wiring help, people before me butchered everything, on down to the ecm harness. And most of what they did melted/burnt so redoing everything. Can you help me?
@@gingersnapcustoms94 K3500 NV4500 Ext Cab Long Bed Dually. I'm replacing everything (electric) top to bottom, left to right, which will take time but if I could just get the motor running that would be a big step.
@@countrieboyz2009 the pump is electronically controlled in those trucks. So without doing an ECM harness and under intake harness it will be difficult to make it go. You could always do a DB2 mechanical pump swap from a 93 and have one wire to start and run the pump.
@ you can just pull key power on and run it to the injection pump fuel shut off solenoid. I want to say the truck stop forum had a large write up on it that says what goes where.
Made my own with a 11” wide marine tray. Amazon, summit, jegs, speedway all sell the tray. The hardware is form the local place in town. Just two 5/16 bolts for the top two and 5/16 self tappers for the bottom.
@@highdesertink1993 you shouldn’t have a mechanical lift pump on the 6.5 unless it’s in a square body. All 6.5s have electronic lift pumps that feed the engine. 6.2s are mechanical lift pumps like an old SBC.
@@gingersnapcustoms Yes it is a square body, I have a 1986 GMC Serra Classic 3/4ton 4x4. I took the 6.2 out (after a oil return line blew and I lost all the oil and filled my engine with shavings) and put in a rebuilt 6.5 turbo. I have a machinal pump on the lower front passenger side and want to upgrade it but this will be a new upgrade that I have to do my homework on with everything including the process of how to hook it up with duel tanks? The reason I'm asking the question about the plate is because I cant find a fuel pump block-off plate for the 6.5l diesel?
@@highdesertink1993 6.2 and 6.5 are interchangeable. That becomes the turbo train on a 6.5. So if you find a block off for a 6.2 that will work fine. Or use the turbo drain with a cap for the 6.5.
@@gingersnapcustoms Question: I'm also adding a filtered oil catch can and was wondering if it is safe to delete PCV off the valve cover and run the line right to the can? I'm asking you because I have seen and read pro's and cons on it and it seems like google will say one think and truck owners say another??? Thx for any reply you have to offer.
@@highdesertink1993 so it’s better to actually keep the CDR valve on these than to remove them. Road drafts don’t do these much good and a catch can works great with a CDR.
They are not meant to be changed without the pump being recalibrated. So you’ll have to call an injection pump shop. If it needs an optic sensor and o ring then the pump needs rebuilt.
i just installed some cargo maxx heavy duty coil springs and the front end is now lifted 1-2inches and now my stock 245/75/16 tires look way to skinny what do you recommend going with 285 or 265 ?
@@gingersnapcustoms ok sounds good what do you think about goodyear duratracs? I'm looking for a good all terrain also was looking into the nitto ridge grapplers
I'm trying to find a radiator for a 1992 6.5 there hard to come by any suggestions? mine is starting to leak a bit and its time for a new rad i can swap over the tanks and refurbish it
@@diyautomotive4750 takes an hour or so. PB blaster on cooler line fittings for 4-5 days before. 1. Drain radiator 2. Remove upper fan shroud and hold downs 3. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses 4. Remove transmission cooler lines from passenger radiator tank 5. Remove over flow lines and make sure all hoses are disconnected 6. Lift straight up evenly to remove radiator from truck 7. Inspect new radiator and apply all needed fittings from old rad to new. Install using steps 6 through 1
Thanks bro i also was wondering if you know why my lift pump keeps running after installing new ops on my 1992 I’m going to put a new lift pump relay see if that helps
@@gingersnapcustoms thank you for the quick reply! I’ve been looking on your fb page for about 30 minutes and can’t seem to find the post about the hx35. Is it under the Casper album?
@@DaMAV3R1CK it’s in the pinned post. I have an album for upgrades as well where it should have a few links. If not. I’ll add that to my “to make” list tonight and tomorrow.
@@korbinstudnicki3510 I don’t have one handy and I’m traveling for work today. Google Zombiesolutions or look at the pinned post on the gingersnapcustoms Facebook page. Thanks
@@korbinstudnicki3510 I don’t have one handy and I’m traveling for work today. Google Zombiesolutions or look at the pinned post on the gingersnapcustoms Facebook page. Thanks
@@gingersnapcustoms ok thanks I find it. I need to buy the turbo, the down pipe adapter and oil drain kit and oil drain adapter for it to work correct? Do I need to buy anything else you have listed on there for it?
@@christopherwilson7698 power to weight calculator at 6000lbs down a drag strip had it labeled around 327hp/600tq. I’ve never had it on a dyno but others with similar setups have been in that ball park. Not much to write home around. But it’s way better than the 167/285 it made stock.
@@gingersnapcustoms honestly I think that’s pretty damn impressive, hope I didn’t offend you with my poor attempt at humor really enjoy your guys videos keep up the great work
@@gingersnapcustoms I've never had a "hit" pump. All mine have gone out in about 20,000 miles. We even relocated the PMD, boosted the lift pump, directed more cooling air over the pump (it's in a van chassey) and only used brand-name diesel. I'm just gonna replace the IP once a year from now on.
@@sunnybeech74 if they are going out that often you’ve got contaminants in the fuel tank or the sock on the sender is slowly starving them until they die. The lowest life I’ve had was 37,000 miles and that was due to a cheap rebuild. A DTech pump sits in its place and I’m still not having issues almost 30k later.
I am in NY, where is M&L, Bronx ? I have 2 6.5 suburban, 94 & 98. My 94 has a Banks 3½" exhaust and I like it much better then Dimond Eye but banks stopped making them years ago. The 94 I owned since 96 and the 98 I recently picked up with 92k on it. I used a 92/93 lift pump on the 94 no issues but getting a Walbro pump for the 98. I do the manual waste gate on both and thats it and they run.. The guys on the forums are so full of ...., they must have money to blow.
He’s in Jersey and just got out of tuning unfortunately. I’ll be honest. The budget work truck swap I did last year ran amazing for towing. PTwiring HX35 kit. Carter lift pump upgrade. 4” diamond eye. And it was a great farm truck. There’s really no reason anymore to go crazy on these because there isn’t enough hard part support -rods. Pistons. Mains-. Glad yours are all still kicking and do so well!
Yeah, no reason to go crazy with these, it's throwing money down the toilet. Even a manual wastegate is fine on the gm8 turbo. My 94 has 4.10's and the 98 3.42 gears and that alone makes the 2 trucks night and day. I like these but they are temperamental, my 1st gen Cummins is a real runner almost stock and extremely reliable. I personally feel Qstar and SS are rip-offs. Thanks for replying.
@@Terk131 they make good farm trucks. Mines done me well but they can be fussy. SS is for sure a rip off. The tuning Quadstar did on my 99 made the truck night and day compared to the stock ECM. That’s the only reason I suggest them. Hopefully yours will continue to be great work trucks for years to come.
Its an IDI, non intercooled and comes factory with an insufficient charger/lift pump out the gate........why people argue the intercooler is beyond me. Your leaving power and efficiency on the table without it. Well done!
Thanks big guy!
And like my 97 C 3500 there is no smog equipment on it no DEF fluid to put in it makes it even better engines last a lot longer than these new trucks they’re less expensive to work on the parts are less expensive especially fuel injectors yeah when I lived in California some idiot tried to steal it used ether on it because it was hard to start because the optic sensor was giving me fits they blew the head gasket out of it with ether I change the engines to the P 400 nice engine but still it has no smog equipment that makes it even better and the fact that the people tried to steal the truck didn’t get very far about 50 feet because it wouldn’t run or stay running because the injector pump was messed up not runs good real good
Forever thankful for all the information and experience you’ve shared with the 6.2/6.5 community, a bit sad to hear that you are now going another direction but totally understandable. Your information have helped me a lot with my ongoing project and saved me a bunch of $. Thank you and I will be looking forward for your future projects!
I will still have Casper and plan to continue sharing info just in different places. I’m glad the things I’ve shared were a big help!!
Just found your page. I started out in a GM dealership in 94 turning wrenches. I cut my teeth on the 6.5. I love the C/K body style and I do like the 6.5 as well. Its not a bad engine but does need a little help to make it better. Good video
A little love and they are a great work truck or commuter
I discovered your channel, its awesome so far. However, i wanna get into a 6.5 diesel, mostly because i work as a military technician and i work on military 6.5L both turbo and nonturbo models! Hate em when they dont work/not well maintained, love em when they are running with no issues. Ive grown to love em and hate em but i wanna get atleast a civilian model 6.5 and i have some ideas that i wanna do to make a bit more efficient along with some more power. Watching your videos definitely has been what i needed to have motivation to have one and detailed videos they are. I was once a 7.3 turbo diesel owner previously had to sell it unfortunately and i want to get back into a diesel again
Shout out to your wife or girlfriend. It's awesome that she's there with you and supporting your hobby and at least trying to be enthusiastic about things with you.
This channel in one video has saved me over a grand in upgrades that were "necessary " in other 6.5 guys channels and gsc has numbers to prove it
I have a theory. If I can’t make it prove it works. I’m not running it
Great video. The one thing I will say is building a box/shield to minimize that hot air draw from the engine is a good idea. Obviously while you are driving it’s not going to make much of a difference but at a stop/low speed it can be dramatic. A few years back we did some testing on a 3.0 eco diesel and a 6.7 power stroke using open, closed, and partial intake boxes. When in traffic/stopped/staging IATs would climb to 165F! This was 90F over the out side temperature and didn’t take long to reach. With a full box the temperature would stay 15-25F over the out side temperature. Considering every 15F is worth about 1% power that’s considerable especially when starting off from a stop light with a big load or 1/8 mile where the first 60 really counts. Also it takes a few seconds for those IATs to start coming down even at WOT. This testing was of course done pre turbo/intercooler at the actual intake.
A box will always benefit. Just never had the time to make one and at this point caspers been retired to farm truck life. Hopefully someone picks up the torch and does more with the 6.5s than I have.
Great advice and yes I agree with you 100%. I have items listed except for the hx35, fluid damper and billet pulley. Biggest improvements are the 4” exh, intercooler with 3” intake and piping, better lift pump and decent Bosch injectors. Hx 35 and fluid damper are on the wish list for now.
I don’t really push anyone ever getting a billet pulley. Having the fluid damper and HX swap are more important than an IC from what I’ve noticed. I always do the lift pump. Exhaust. Upper intake. Turbo. Fluid damper. Then sort out a tune or IC. All depends on the user too.
Thanks for the honest information. This is how I was wanting to setup my 4x4 crew cab dually.
Glad I stuck to the end. I was about to go buy a crossover pipe in the morning
Probably my favorite yt channel. Super informative and really interesting
I’m glad to teach!
Thanks again for all your assistance i got I'm working on that i have had for 20 years just wanted to make it better for sentimental reasons but like you i love the truck but have realized that it is almost not worth fixing ( it blew up about 3 years ago) and I determined to make it better 😀 👍
It’s hard when we love the truck so much. Just accepting these for what they are. Tossing on some basic upgrades and enjoying them is by far the best thing we can do!!
You can get good used engines dirt cheap. I just picked one up with 67k for $500 and he was asking $700. So many are doing Cummins or Dmax swaps.
Some snappy advice in your video. Can't beat the body style on those 93-00 Chevys, hope too many people don't poo poo on it ha ha. One crucial upgrade you may have missed is the fuel pump external PMD cooler/heat-sink setup. I can say that as they have left many stranded including myself. Cheers
Cheers. No wastegate anymore. Running a gate less S300. It is indeed tuned. The latest video I did goes around more basic upgrades
GSC, another great video with useful info. Not too many out there for the 6.5 so glad that you were one of them even if you're moving on.
I have three 54 Chevy trucks that need love. Figured time to give those the focus they need.
Where are you posting on those 54's? I like those trucks. A bit more partial to the early grills in that line but definetly a future build!
Thanks for the info and cash savings!
We love the 6.5 . No it is not a performance motor , what it is dependable if you keep it reasonable . Go 4 inch exhaust for sure , increase the lift pump or change it every year ( i do ) , the turbo is inefficient at past 15 pounds but it works quick . Change intake for something that breathes like on here . Change the rad for something decent or just clean the one you have often . Change the oil on the regular . we get 21 mpg hauling 3000 lbs in the bed or empty . We have towed up to 14000 lbs in dump trailer , Not the truck for that .
Which pickup is?
I like that you've changed you mind about CKO turbos! 😁 I posted mine with a CKO hx35w on Facebook for about 2-3 years ago and I did get the feeling you thought i was an idiot for using that 😂 guess you where more in to "that company" at that time.
I enjoy your videos, keep em going!🤘
//Tobias from Sweden
Never thought anyone was an idiot for it. I’d do my own tests and everyone else’s data was hogwash. So I am glad yours is still doing well!!
I don't have a diesel truck, I've heard both bad and good about them. I own a Chevy Silverado Z71 xcab with a 5.7 350,and it's great . I've been watching UA-cam videos about 6.2 and 6.5 diesels and I've heard that they're better on fuel than there gasoline counterparts. That better fuel economy got my interest. My truck gets about 13 or 14 mpg. I've heard that the diesels can get 20 plus mpg. I only put a 3" exhaust on my truck so that it can breathe better. It's all stock otherwise. I like to keep my vehicles stock.
I'm looking for a good used 6.2 or 6.5 diesel truck and I thank you for your advice and saying that stock is great.
Thank you and take care. 👍
The maintenance and upkeep doesn’t pay for itself on these. I’ve had a few half ton 4wd models and even highway cruising I got 16-17mpg on good days until winter when it would drop to 15 flat. Keep your 5.7 and enjoy it for years to come.
Great video! Very informative and a lot of good advice. Theese are great worktrucks and runs forever if you take care of them, and they sounds awesome :) Here in Sweden the 6,5s are still very popular. We have more diesel trucks than petrol ones from that generation. A really nice one can cost about $15-20000 (!).
Thanks for your knowledge
Went from wrenching on gas and semi engines. Looked for years and found my 95 k3500 6.5 td
LMAO !!! As soon as you pulled the hood release lever, I was waiting to hear if the telltale OBS hood hinge springs were gonna creak and moan. Needless to say, I’m convinced it’s not a showroom model, and I’m all ears my friend.
The truck was built out of a junk yard November 2012. It’s been everything from my daily driver to a toy. Farm truck. Experiments all conducted on it. It’s been one heck of a truck.
Dang I wish I could have you come with me to look at a 6.5 suburban
I think another way to cool down a 6.5 is to get an oil cooler. Dont know if they come with an oil cooler from the factory but if not thats also a way to cool the engine oil and so overall the engine.
They all came with a large factory oil cooler. Definitely a good point thought. Any bit helps on these.
Thanks for the info on this stuff.
I decided when i got my truck i'm just gonna do a fass on mine just because I want to do 1/2 feed lines mainly just to eliminate the old stock stuff that's pushing 27 years on my 94 I'm not expecting it to run with a cummins. I got a 08 6.4 tuned for a expensive toy and i got a 7.3 with a 6 speed for the work truck role so the old 6.5 gets to do light work once i get it up to speed.
1/2” feed lines are totally not necessary on a 6.5. New 3/8s lines are more than enough. For a Fass you’ll need a 90-100gph Dmax booster pump is plenty.
@@gingersnapcustoms ohh I know it's overkill but it's mostly for If I swap a Cummins in down the road it will have 1/2 for it.
u cant say the dual thermostat isnt an upgrade, idk what kinda trailers ur draggin but i also honestly dont usually get hot either, but their use to b a time when i had to sit n let n let it cool i dont kno if its necessary with the pump n fan upgrade but honestly with the later model high flow pump i wouldnt mind a little less restriction jus for the hell of it im goin to record with the flir, when i get every thing back together, and see where the heat builds up n where the hot spots really get in the block to put that rumor to rest, ill post a link when i put it up
It isn’t an upgrade. Period. You see more benefits from the pump and fan than the thermostat housing. Hell a new radiator is more worth it. I figured dragging trailers loaded between 8000-12,000lbs was a pretty good personal experience and enough to base this from. Different strokes for different folks. But I wouldn’t waste my time changing a housing that isn’t the problem.
Great info on 6.5s thanks! Do you know/recommend any tuners other than quad* (not a huge fan)? M&L (buffalo)? Leroy? Kennedy?
Honestly I’ve run them all and Quadstar is the only tune I’ve had any real luck with. Leroy would be my second go to.
Legend 👍🏼
Why didn't you go turbo to the intake ? I'm not understanding that.Thanks in advance
In this video I had an air to air intercooler setup for testing installed. If you watch my newer “when to tune a 6.5” video you’ll see it without the intercooler and just the standard turbo to plenum piping. Hope that helps.
Hey bud, I'm looking at a 1997 K2500 6.5 TD w 103k for $8k right now, and I need some advice. I don't need crazy towing power, I have big block gas solutions for that, I'm looking more for a tool hauler for landscaping with maximum fuel economy, prob won't ever exceed 7k pounds towing, occasionally hauling topsoil or mulch in the bed. Any upgrades you'd recommend? The current owner said he considered a 4 inch exhaust and a tune that would allegedly add 80hp and 160fp of torque. Does that sound realistic to you, and do you think those would be smart upgrades for my use? I live in Michigan, and Michigan turnarounds in traffic make 0-60 times fairly important. Any help is SUPER appreciated bud, love the videos.
I’m in Michigan too. Shoot me a message on the Facebook page.
Recommendations for a stock 6.5 , I just use for pulling farm eaquiptment around.
Thanks.
Change the oil regularly. Get a lift pump relay harness and updated lift pump from Leroy diesel or Quadstar. If it’s a 94-2000 get an optimized stock tune from Quadstar and use it for a long time. They are great farm trucks.
So what would you say about the S&B cold air intake? Worth it? Or is it a just for looks type of thing? It does look nice, they show some sort of "data" on their site about it but I was curious if its worth it? Closed off from the engine and uses the stock fender intake that comes up from the turn signal. I have not seen anybody really talk good or bad about it. What is your opinion towards it?
The S&B actually flows less than a stock K47 or the big 4” that I run. Removing the 90 degree bends is what reduces the IATs pre turbo and allows for more open flow.
im goin to record block temps with the flir when i get every thing back together, and see where the heat builds up n where the hot spots really grow in the block to put that rumor to rest, ill post a link when i put it up if its allowed, i doubt it for some reason (reposted that one part jus as a reminder)
I don’t mind you posting the link. I’ve already been here done all of this and didn’t see a massive difference that was so shocking to feel the need to change them. Happy testing!
@@gingersnapcustoms o no shit i havent come across that one that sounds like it might save me some work :p does anybody have any idea of a name or url? much appreciated
@@4dirt2racer0 what do you need reposted? For whatever reason this is the only part to the comment I can see
By 2000, or 2001 water pump fan assembly, do you mean a Chevy 2500 with the 6.0 gas engine water pump, and the fan assembly?
No. 6.5l diesel. The late ones are the best.
My 6.5 needs new turbo was thinking about adding inner cooler like the big equipment has trying to figure out if I need a bigger turbo to make it work. Thanks for input
A larger turbo is suggested if you work the truck often or tow frequently. The intercooler will work on a stock turbo. But you won’t see nearly the efficiency gain.
@@gingersnapcustoms
And you were able to fit that inner cooler in front of everything else in front of the radiator?
@@jamesmader5829 I had it there but my truck does not have AC. I would suggest looking into and air to water cooler. Better packaging to fit it all in.
@@gingersnapcustoms thought about it
But it is the favorite farm truck
Doesn’t need one more maintenance item
Air to air makes some sense
Already put LP on it who needs more
@@jamesmader5829 I would just do an HX35 swap. Upper intake. Lift pump. 4”
Exhaust and 4” air intake. That’s all I’ve run on the farm trucks and have had no issues or shortage of power.
I miss my 6.5 :( at right around 280k the injection pump went out and I didn't have the money or time to replace it
They definitely aren’t cheap when fuel systems issues start happening.
@@gingersnapcustoms yea and I wasn't confident in the ebay pumps. At that point even Leroy diesel couldn't get anything but reman pumps
@@andrewbuzzell3542 I run whatever XDP or the local diesel place sells. Or junk yard pumps anymore. They are all reman anyways. Even “brand new” use a core. So I just set the timing right. Keep fuel additive in them and drive them.
@@gingersnapcustoms yea prob is with the ds4 pumps you gotta have the laptop to recalibrate them
@@andrewbuzzell3542 only on a 94-95. 96-00 you can do it with an app.
I got a 95 c3500hd with a 454 and 4l80 I’m about to be getting a good 6.5 parts truck with a mechanical 6.5 and nv4500 to swap into it I’m looking to make 3-400hp ideally
400 horse is tough. You’ll need an S364 turbo and injection pump from Verlin Martin. Injectors from him. Get a set of new pro max heads. ARP head studs. You’ll want to balance the bottom end with stock pistons. Leroy diesel timing gear set. Fass lift pump from Quadstar tuning and their upper intake manifold. It’s possible but it costs a few bucks to get there.
I have a 6.5 in my tow truck and this will be my last 6.5 I'm switching back to a 454 I'd rather have to spend more on fuel and have a super reliable engine then having a 6.5 diesel
I can completely respect that. My tow rig is an 8.1L big block. Farm truck is a 6.5 and a 7.3. That said you can’t beat a healthy big block! We had a 454 dually for years and it was the best farm truck we’ve ever had.
@@gingersnapcustoms the thing I like about 6.5s is the fuel mileage like you said in the video gm neverbuilt this engine for people to make a hotrod outta them. My 6.5 has served me well but the only benefit it has over a big block is fuel mileage. great videos man
@@chasauto2932 they are good fuel savers and I can say they did that well. Give them a little more go go power takes that away pretty quick leaving you with big block fuel economy and small block horse power. That said. There’s always a balance!
@@gingersnapcustoms exactly you couldn't have said it better. Have a good rest of your day
@@chasauto2932 you too!
Its a hx 35 turbo? couldn't find 5658? Sorry stupid question totally new to diesel
So an HX35 is the type. The 56mm inducer/58mm exducer is the wheel size. Hope that helps some.
What was the mileage when you put on the fluid damper ?
@@tarquineous I did the fluid damper at 154,000
I enjoyed your video I have a 6.2 in an 86 K5 Blazer I love to get exhaust manifolds a 6.5 front drive assembly for a serpentine belt opposed to having three belts that way I can keep air conditioning your videos very informative do you know if your intercooler increases your performance and by how much and if I keep my 6-2 and update it is it worth it or should I get a 65 instead let me know please and thank you
I’ll get back to you with a more in depth reply after I’m back from a work trip. If you want send a message to the Facebook page
What headlights are those? I need to find some that don't suck....
I want to say Azon from Amazon. So far so good and they’ve been in the truck for 3 ish years
I've got the opportunity to get a 95 6.5 c3500 dually 2 wheel drive for a great price. 226k miles on it, has rebuild heads for some reason, rust free body and a service bed on it. I'd likely pull the service bed off and swap to a flatbed to haul construction materials. I mod everything I own.. should I do it, or run?
If you are doing a lot of heavy hauling or keeping it loaded down constantly I would look for a 454 big block truck. If you are willing to do a few upgrades and just be aware these are very needy engines. They it’ll work out fine. Hauled hay with my 6.5 yesterday and picked up bales.
@@gingersnapcustoms I'm typically a ford guy, I was offered the truck as a trade for another vehicle I'm selling
@@JSAFIXIT I’m a GM guy and now have a 7.3 I’ve been toying with. So I get it.
I'm installing hx-35 turbo..waiting on down pipe..trying to figure out adjusting waste gate..
You shouldn’t need to adjust the gate if it’s tuned.
@@gingersnapcustoms ok
Looks like the way i would have done a few of these.
I need wiring help, people before me butchered everything, on down to the ecm harness. And most of what they did melted/burnt so redoing everything. Can you help me?
@@countrieboyz2009 what year is it? I might be able to help.
@@gingersnapcustoms94 K3500 NV4500 Ext Cab Long Bed Dually.
I'm replacing everything (electric) top to bottom, left to right, which will take time but if I could just get the motor running that would be a big step.
@@countrieboyz2009 the pump is electronically controlled in those trucks. So without doing an ECM harness and under intake harness it will be difficult to make it go. You could always do a DB2 mechanical pump swap from a 93 and have one wire to start and run the pump.
@@gingersnapcustomsRight, I can't find anything on the wiring harness. As far as which pin goes to what.
@ you can just pull key power on and run it to the injection pump fuel shut off solenoid. I want to say the truck stop forum had a large write up on it that says what goes where.
Hey man. I am interested on the lift pump you mentioned. The cheaper one lol… can you tel me what site to get the carter or holley from?
Zomebiesolutions and Quadstar tuning sell bolt on kits for Carter style pumps.
@@gingersnapcustoms awesome. Thank you. This is going to be the first mod I personally do since the pmd is already relocated.
Where did you get the battery relocation bracket at.
Made my own with a 11” wide marine tray. Amazon, summit, jegs, speedway all sell the tray. The hardware is form the local place in town. Just two 5/16 bolts for the top two and 5/16 self tappers for the bottom.
@@gingersnapcustoms thank you
"Company a" isnt quadstar and theyre super54 compared to bruces hx40wii? I would be disappointed, i just opted for their kit over his
Well if it is, I fell for it. Now I need an intercooler and they want me to buy a super 60
I'm upgrading to an electric carter lift pump on my 6.5l turbo diesel, do I need to remove the mechanical pump and plate the block?
@@highdesertink1993 you shouldn’t have a mechanical lift pump on the 6.5 unless it’s in a square body. All 6.5s have electronic lift pumps that feed the engine. 6.2s are mechanical lift pumps like an old SBC.
@@gingersnapcustoms Yes it is a square body, I have a 1986 GMC Serra Classic 3/4ton 4x4. I took the 6.2 out (after a oil return line blew and I lost all the oil and filled my engine with shavings) and put in a rebuilt 6.5 turbo. I have a machinal pump on the lower front passenger side and want to upgrade it but this will be a new upgrade that I have to do my homework on with everything including the process of how to hook it up with duel tanks? The reason I'm asking the question about the plate is because I cant find a fuel pump block-off plate for the 6.5l diesel?
@@highdesertink1993 6.2 and 6.5 are interchangeable. That becomes the turbo train on a 6.5. So if you find a block off for a 6.2 that will work fine. Or use the turbo drain with a cap for the 6.5.
@@gingersnapcustoms Question: I'm also adding a filtered oil catch can and was wondering if it is safe to delete PCV off the valve cover and run the line right to the can? I'm asking you because I have seen and read pro's and cons on it and it seems like google will say one think and truck owners say another??? Thx for any reply you have to offer.
@@highdesertink1993 so it’s better to actually keep the CDR valve on these than to remove them. Road drafts don’t do these much good and a catch can works great with a CDR.
Do you happen to have links to all the air to air cooler setup you got from Amazon?
It’s all on the Facebook page in a post from October 2020. I have had a lot of issues trying to post links here. Thanks
@@gingersnapcustoms ok thanks. I'm also on the 6.5 page your on I'll check it out.
Do you need to stud the heads
If you tow a lot and really beat on it. It’s recommended. But if the gaskets aren’t blown. Just run it.
Hx40wii vs hx35, towing considerable weight most of the time?
The HX40WII from Zombiesolutions works great for long distance work.
That's what I just ordered for my welding rig, weighs 8k constantly, hoping it does justice
I want to get the hx35 turbo but I can’t find it for my truck what do I look for I have a 1994 k2500 td
Go to the gingersnapcustoms Facebook page. The pinned post has a whole budget turbo swap and all components listed
HELP!! Looking for the oring seal on the optical sensor. Having a hard time getting my hands on one. Hoping you can help. Thanks
They are not meant to be changed without the pump being recalibrated. So you’ll have to call an injection pump shop. If it needs an optic sensor and o ring then the pump needs rebuilt.
@@gingersnapcustoms thanks for the reply I appreciate all you videos and help.
@@jacobmay3330 it probably wasn’t what you wanted to hear. But it’s just the right way to do it.
@@gingersnapcustoms lol sure wasn’t but gotta treat her right.
What is the pressure rating of your lift pumps?
100gph at 14psi. You need the volume and pressure to sufficiently feed the injection system.
@@gingersnapcustoms so 14 PSI is not too high?
@@seove1 no. 16 is about the max you ever want to see. 11-15 is good
@@gingersnapcustoms ok. The pump that I just put in is at 17. I need to do something about it. I thought that there was a regulator on these trucks.
@@seove1 the stock filter housing acts as a regular. But none of the 6.5s came with a factory FPR. Only GM gas did until the duramax came out.
i just installed some cargo maxx heavy duty coil springs and the front end is now lifted 1-2inches and now my stock 245/75/16 tires look way to skinny
what do you recommend going with 285 or 265 ?
I stick to 265-75-16s. I’ve run 285s but they rub the chassis pretty hard when turning.
@@gingersnapcustoms ok sounds good what do you think about goodyear duratracs? I'm looking for a good all terrain also was looking into the nitto ridge grapplers
@@diyautomotive4750 I run Cooper AT3s. I’m not a duratrac fan unless it’s for sled pulling and Nittos is about the same
Got a link to the ebay kit you made the intercooler piping out of??
Amazon 3” universal IC piping kit
Amazon 31x11x3 universal cooler
Amazon 3” assorted rubber IC couplers
KBDiesel upper intake hat.
@@gingersnapcustoms thank you
Is the GM turbo mount a T3 or T4 mount?
Stock turbos are T3
I'm trying to find a radiator for a 1992 6.5 there hard to come by any suggestions? mine is starting to leak a bit and its time for a new rad
i can swap over the tanks and refurbish it
I honestly run normal old parts store radiators. Never had issues.
@@gingersnapcustoms how bad it is to change a rad on one of these trucks? any tips?
@@diyautomotive4750 takes an hour or so. PB blaster on cooler line fittings for 4-5 days before.
1. Drain radiator
2. Remove upper fan shroud and hold downs
3. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses
4. Remove transmission cooler lines from passenger radiator tank
5. Remove over flow lines and make sure all hoses are disconnected
6. Lift straight up evenly to remove radiator from truck
7. Inspect new radiator and apply all needed fittings from old rad to new.
Install using steps 6 through 1
Thanks bro i also was wondering if you know why my lift pump keeps running after installing new ops on my 1992 I’m going to put a new lift pump relay see if that helps
@@diyautomotive4750 the oil pressure switch is bad and the contacts are stuck closed.
Do you have a link for the Chinese hx35 that you put on your truck?
It’s all over on the Facebook page. I’ve had issues with links not working here so I made posts there. Check photo albums and the pinned post.
@@gingersnapcustoms thank you for the quick reply! I’ve been looking on your fb page for about 30 minutes and can’t seem to find the post about the hx35. Is it under the Casper album?
@@DaMAV3R1CK it’s in the pinned post. I have an album for upgrades as well where it should have a few links. If not. I’ll add that to my “to make” list tonight and tomorrow.
@@gingersnapcustoms I searched all of your posts and albums and have not found a link for the hx35 turbo
@@DaMAV3R1CK the pinned post on the page is an HX40WII which is an HX35. Message the page and I will send the link directly.
Could i get a links for all of this please
It’s all on the Facebook page pinned post.
@gingersnapcustoms thanks so much man I appreciate it
@gingersnapcustoms what Is the facebook group?
@@Sky_vulpes Gingersnap customs. It’s a page for all of this.
@gingersnapcustoms could you provide a link please for some reason I can't find it
Do you have a link for a hx35 turbo that would work for the 6.5 diesel?
Zombiesolutions sells one or I had a link on the GSC Facebook page pinned post.
@@gingersnapcustoms where’s the link at?
@@korbinstudnicki3510 I don’t have one handy and I’m traveling for work today. Google Zombiesolutions or look at the pinned post on the gingersnapcustoms Facebook page. Thanks
@@korbinstudnicki3510 I don’t have one handy and I’m traveling for work today. Google Zombiesolutions or look at the pinned post on the gingersnapcustoms Facebook page. Thanks
@@gingersnapcustoms ok thanks I find it. I need to buy the turbo, the down pipe adapter and oil drain kit and oil drain adapter for it to work correct? Do I need to buy anything else you have listed on there for it?
Bingo bingo bingo.... 🙏🚂🎼🌹🎵🎶🛠
That’s a young shirt😂
Are you silly, I’m goin over board…
Full send or no send it is
Send me a link to a good lift pump pretty please? The kool aid man still hasn't responded to me guess it's time to put the kool aid down😂😂😂
Did you try emailing them? I’m still going to suggest a PTwiring solutions kit
@@gingersnapcustoms yessir email and messenger oh well lol
@@dieselnation555 hopefully you find a pump that fits your needs and the support you seek! Lots of options out there! Good luck!
Has any done a water meth set up on these trucks?
Many. The issue is it creates hot spots in the cylinders. Better off using straight water
I have a DevilsOwn system on mine. 14gph nozzle running 15% methanol
Anyway to remake this video without the annoying lady filming
Nope. Ignore it or don’t watch. Sorry if that’s an inconvenience.
@@gingersnapcustoms lol 😂
@@gingersnapcustoms what would you say your truck is making for hp n tq after all the mods?
@@christopherwilson7698 power to weight calculator at 6000lbs down a drag strip had it labeled around 327hp/600tq. I’ve never had it on a dyno but others with similar setups have been in that ball park. Not much to write home around. But it’s way better than the 167/285 it made stock.
@@gingersnapcustoms honestly I think that’s pretty damn impressive, hope I didn’t offend you with my poor attempt at humor really enjoy your guys videos keep up the great work
6.5 turbo diesels are decent engines but their injection pumps are complete shit.
I can’t argue with that at all. Both DB2 and DS4 pumps have been hit or miss for me
@@gingersnapcustoms I've never had a "hit" pump. All mine have gone out in about 20,000 miles. We even relocated the PMD, boosted the lift pump, directed more cooling air over the pump (it's in a van chassey) and only used brand-name diesel. I'm just gonna replace the IP once a year from now on.
@@sunnybeech74 if they are going out that often you’ve got contaminants in the fuel tank or the sock on the sender is slowly starving them until they die. The lowest life I’ve had was 37,000 miles and that was due to a cheap rebuild. A DTech pump sits in its place and I’m still not having issues almost 30k later.
@@gingersnapcustoms The sock was removed and the tank checked about three years ago.
@@sunnybeech74 that’s just unusual. That low of miles makes no sense. I could see 40-50k but 20? That’s making me think. What lift pumps in it?
I am in NY, where is M&L, Bronx ? I have 2 6.5 suburban, 94 & 98. My 94 has a Banks 3½" exhaust and I like it much better then Dimond Eye but banks stopped making them years ago. The 94 I owned since 96 and the 98 I recently picked up with 92k on it. I used a 92/93 lift pump on the 94 no issues but getting a Walbro pump for the 98. I do the manual waste gate on both and thats it and they run.. The guys on the forums are so full of ...., they must have money to blow.
He’s in Jersey and just got out of tuning unfortunately. I’ll be honest. The budget work truck swap I did last year ran amazing for towing. PTwiring HX35 kit. Carter lift pump upgrade. 4” diamond eye. And it was a great farm truck. There’s really no reason anymore to go crazy on these because there isn’t enough hard part support -rods. Pistons. Mains-. Glad yours are all still kicking and do so well!
Yeah, no reason to go crazy with these, it's throwing money down the toilet. Even a manual wastegate is fine on the gm8 turbo. My 94 has 4.10's and the 98 3.42 gears and that alone makes the 2 trucks night and day. I like these but they are temperamental, my 1st gen Cummins is a real runner almost stock and extremely reliable. I personally feel Qstar and SS are rip-offs. Thanks for replying.
@@Terk131 they make good farm trucks. Mines done me well but they can be fussy. SS is for sure a rip off. The tuning Quadstar did on my 99 made the truck night and day compared to the stock ECM. That’s the only reason I suggest them. Hopefully yours will continue to be great work trucks for years to come.