How to Change Rear Brakes 2009 Honda CRV
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2015
- How to remove screws on brake rotors
Change Honda rear brakes
How to replace brake pads and rotors on a Honda
How to replace brake pads and rotors on a Honda CR-V
DIY replace rear brake pads and rotors on a Honda CR-V
Why are there screws on my brake rotors? - Авто та транспорт
another tip:
for people who live in high salt areas
to prevent complete deterioration of your brake caliper and caliper bracket- coat them with rust converter.
convert the rust to a primed surface and then paint the entire assy.
the coated metal will live for years instead of rusting out and breaking.
This became my favorite maintenance video ever at 45 seconds in haha.
I wish all youtube videos was like urs, straight to the point.
With respect: 1. Belt the small (presoaked) screws with a drift. Use an Impact screwdriver with a JIS fitting NOT Phillips. 2 with a screwdriver in the caliper hole between the back of a rotor and the piston, push the piston back. 3. Remove the caliper screws and caliper.
All good
Thanks for the video, it has given me the extra confidence needed to do mine this weekend.
As the comments said, my dad told me about an impact driver, so hopefully that will make getting the screws out easier!
Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
I guess there are some negative comments...whatever. I just want to thank you for taking the time. Never would have thought of the chisel trick on those screws! You learn something new every you tube view. Man not sure how much time I saved thanks to your video! Just use Aero Kroil penetrating lube and wait a bit. Then the chisel. Screws came right out! Thanks again!!
"If that doesn't get a like, I don't know what the fuck will." haha that was awesome
Funniest first two minutes of any car video I've ever seen. Good job! 😂
Very straight forward thanks man!
Who in their right mind would Avoid liking this video. Short, Sweet, Informative.
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful.
To take those screws off, was no easy task, but here is what I have tried & it worked almost like magic, I used a pinhead Chisel with 4 corners, looks like Phillips screwdriver almost, it fits perfect on the top of those screws, but before I started hammering the stubborn screws, I sprayed WD40 on them & let it sit for few min, and then I couldn't believe how easy they came off, just make sure you hit it hard with the hammer 5 or 6 times.
Yea what everyone else said. Impact screwdrivers are a must on rotor jobs. But I give u an A for being able to take those rusted screws off without one. Well done.
Hell yea I’m doing my 07 CRV tomorrow morning thanks for the info
I think that I have a chisel like that.....I'm going to put brakes on my CR-V today. Thanks fir sharing your experience. I remember hearing the slogan years ago...."New York's the big apple, but Cleveland's the plum"
Great video you are my kind of guy. Now for my two cents, you dont have to remove bracket with two 17mm bolts however it really helps to take the bolt out that holds the brake line from moving around. When you pull the pads the brake line will hold you back a bit without pulling that bolt and giving you extra length on the hose. *Wd40 that bolt as soon as you get the tire off. When pulling pad bracket try to sneak a screwdriver in somewhere to compress the piston to make it easier to lift bracket. Dont bend the stainless hardware. You should buy new anyway. Clean everything that moves good. Pull the pins and wipe off old grease and regrease and reinsert pins careful not to RIP rubber boots. On mine pin with flat sides went on top. Make sure the back pad prongs go all the way down into piston , put a bit of grease on the ends and line them up by eye dont just try to force pad in. As far as th bolts or screws yes smacking them around can help but I find heat to be the best, little camping sized propane with a torch for a few minutes does it most times. A well known motorcycle mechanic once told me "heat is your friend" . Never forgot that.
Buy an impact screwdriver for $10. It would have been so much easier.
Thank you buddy, your video helped me big time........................
I felt like a friend was walking me thru the steps with all the cuss words 😂😂
thanks, was a great help! who needs to give a mechanic all my money for everything
Thank you! I got dumb and may have messed up my rear break... watching you remove things, the part I bent is the black widest part in the back, I don't think it moves so might be fine. You had already taken the rotor off so we shall see in the morning. I will sleep better anyway!!😽
You need a impact screwdriver, there about $ 10. They come in a little case w/4 bits, when you hit it with a hammer it turns the screw....hard to live with out. Also gets some pipe from home center store to slip over your ratchet, works great to break loose those tight bolts, I have several lengths in my tool box. 😎
Almost forgot to ask are you going to do an update on your rasberries ? I planted some prime ark freedom thornless blackberries this spring, next year I'm going to plant Joan-j and ann yellow rasberries . 😎
+my2cents0 thx for sharing those tips! That's sure to help the next guy doing this job. On the berries I did an update 5/31 and 7/15/15. Check those vids out, if not already. I'm doing a raspberry compilation video next, probably will publish in October. I highly recommend the Joan-J! Yellows are great because they're so sweet. Be sure to get a classic tart flavored too, like heritage. Good luck and thanks for liking and subscribing, it really helps.
+mugs132 Your the third person to recommend Heritage , I will add those to my spring order from Starkbros which I highly recommend . Thanks....😎
That did not help me.....
I had to dill all four rotors
You know how to get peoples attention with that direct intro😂 great video, and thanks for the info, couldn't remember what tools I needed and ended up picking up some hints along the way. If you're ever in mansfield hit me up and I'll buy you a beer 🍺.
Thanks, I'll be doing this tomorrow.
I can feel your pain. I replaced pads and rotors front to back ....had to drill out all the screws !!!! The removing rear rotors were a fight. At 6 o'clock on the rotor you will find a star bolt this can be loosened or made tight with the help of a screw driver. The emergency brake shoes can be backed off by pushing the star bolt down....Loosen the star bolt until the rotor turns freely.
Lisle Impact Tool Set 29200 will deliver a massive amount of “shock torque” when struck with a mallet. It has proven itself time after time in my garage.
Wow! What a difference of metal discoloration from Ohio to California.
great video doug, I don't suppose you've done a video on adjusting the handbrake/e/brake, have you ???
Brilliant! I was hooked the minute you admitted loads of f-bombs! 😆 Ha! As with stuff like this it worth checking out several vids. Tips galore! Ive seen ‘pro’ and ‘amateur’ vids with good and bad bits. Just do the research and crack on. 🤓. Top lad. 👍
Thanks for the tips, hopefully I can just drill out those screws and make it a quick job.
Did you have to do anything to push the caliper piston back in - or is is as simple as using channel lock pliers to squeeze them back in?
A cheap impact driver will take the screws off easily. Some homework really helps.
Great video bro👍👍
when do u change the drum brakes in the inside?
Yes those pan head screws suck when rusty, but PB Blaster and an impact always worked for me back in MI
I used a Vessel cross point impact screwdriver on the screws. Smack the screwdriver head with a really big hammer, worked like a charm. I live in rust free Canada so the screwdriver was$25 cdn on Amazon. Worked on all four rotors.
which car body point you place rear highjack?
Very helpful
Thanks, Bruh! Yep--I'm here in Cleveland too. Salt and brine here is awful!
Best.Intro.Ever.
"Vessel 125943 908 P3x150 Impacta Screwdriver" =right tool for the job, prevents new problems and cuts time way down.
Those 17 mm would not break loose no matter how hard I tried. Off to my mechanic. Great video though. Very clear. Good job.
The bolts used to force the rotors off are 8mm x 1.25. They really make it easy to remove stuck crv rotors.
For the record, I got my rotor screws out on my 2014 Honda CR-V (there was only one screw per rotor on the back rotors) with a Vessel 125943 908 P3x150 Impacta Screwdriver (link to Amazon here: amzn.to/2Bn9H49). I did have to heat one of them with a propane torch but got it off with a couple of whacks. The other one came out with a couple of whacks only with the Impacta Screwdriver. I am going to leave them off for now on so there won't be an extra step (they're not needed...like the video said and as verified by my mechanic I use when I can't do the job myself). Anyone know the part number of the rubber boots that cover the hole on the rotor to keep water out?
Wow so helpful wow
No bleeding of brakes needed?
Thank you
Just a suggestion: When reassembling the brakes, I used two lug nuts to hold the rotor in place while I assembled the unit. Once your done with the assembly,just take the lug nuts off and continue to reinstall the tires.
I was hoping to see how the rear pads were removed and lubricating the slides and the disc brake grease application etc. for reassembly. Maybe those tidbits will be in your next repair video. I chose to replace the screws. A dab of Permatex anti seize compound on the threads and a thin layer of it on the rotor/hub contact areas will make the rotor removal next time much easier to deal with. I won't bother calling you out for buying $30 Chinese made rotors to stop your vehicle. Me personally, I don't want ANYTHING Chinese trying to stop my vehicle. You can buy OEM Honda parts on line at a discount and get free shipping, but I digress.
I'm going to compare your video to South Main Auto and Eric The Car Guy's tutorials on brakes. They know what they're talking about. Your video has comedic relief value to it, but there was no mention of using any rust penetrant being used before the initial attempt to get the screws out, no mention of even trying a propane torch, so your lack of basic tools to perform automotive repairs has me scratching my head. The nice new floor jack is a good start, as are the properly placed jack stands. Yoou jave your fan base and they support you and maybe that's all that matters. Can't wait for your video on changing the timing belt......
Dude, I'm from Painesville, just down the road. I moved and haven't been back in awhile, but if I do, I'm going to look you up and buy you beer. Those f'ing screws that you have to drill out are a bitch. Great video!
There's actually a screwdriver that is meant for those Phillips head screws. It's not a standard phillips head screw, it's a Japanese version "phillips". There is a slight design difference that makes the screw driver seat in the head better. This particular screwdriver has a metal head on it that allows you to hammer it. As you hammer it, the screwdriver will turn counter-clockwise 12° each hit, it's definitely a cuss saver. www.amazon.com/dp/B003BGTTSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_J68QQ86YBP6Y2SM8G7GY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So, you could drill those screws out, then, right ? Thanks for this video. I'm in my garage right now, working on my 2011 CRV.
I had to drill the centre out and use a screw remover that threaded into the hole.
The rotor screw is not a phillips head, it's a JIS #3. Vessel 125943 908 P3x150 Impacta Screwdriver
is the correct tool for the job.
Those F'n screws... Yup, I feel your pain. Impact screwdriver and torch. Works every time here in MN. Torch the surrounding area of the caliper around the screw, pop that screwdriver in, hit that sucker with the hammer/mallet a few times and move on with life. Great video btw
PB Blaster Penetrating Oil wil help with any screw, nut and bolt.
Thanks
Well done on staying with it until you sorted the issue those little screws are a pain.
Help help Chris please! I bought set of brk pads and rotor from the same place for my 09 CRV. I followed your tips and guidance and was successfully replaced brk pads and rotor for front axle. Now, after mounting my wheels back on, I used the same breaker bar to tighten all lugs. Is this wrong. My steering wheel is shaking like crazy. Please advise. Thanks
richbf2 see a professional and double check your lugs are torqued properly.
you really should use a torque wrench to tighten the wheels so you dont damage the studs or the lug-nuts from over tightening, if your steering wheel is shaking while you drive, then the front wheels are either not mounted correctly or front tires or wheels are damaged. try switching your tires front to back..
Since the issue wasn't there before the brake job it was something you just did. Make sure the rotor is seated against the axle, you can check this after you put it back together. Turn the rotor by hand and make sure there is no wobble. If thats ok then maybe you dont have the wheel seated. Is there anything sticking out, like one of those screws that will not allow the wheel to seat flush against the rotor? Of course torque when done.
Thanks for your helpful suggestion Phil. I found the culprit to my shaking steering wheel. It was one of studs was cross threaded. So the wheel did not sit straight. This time I took to the local shop. It cost me $175 to get it replaced. I came out spending more for the brake job than had I taken to the shop from the beginning. Anyway thanks again.
howdy from Lorain county
Welp, maybe I'll buy that impact screw driver after all.
Wow! 3 hours This job was only difficult for you because of where you live and u could’ve used your jacks handle as a breaker bar 👍
Nice Talk!
2:30 dirt will eventually find its way inside the springs and fuck everything up, seal does hole with plastic or silicon.
Allright Cleveland! I grew up in Avon Lake and well know about the salt/rust issues.
BTW, I used an impact screwdriver to remove the rotors on our 2008 CRV and simply had them turned for $15 each. The impact screwdriver worked great. When you do the front, Lorain Auto Parts can turn your rotors and get them true. As an aside, you ought to loose the bad language, makes you sound as if you're from Parma.
do you leave the emergency brake on ? or you leave it released
You have to release it if you’re changing the rear
Invest in an oxy/acetylene torch. No banging, no drilling, no driving bolts to mimic a wheel puller. Just heat it for 10 seconds and the rust bond breaks.
Also realise the handbrake as pads will hold the router tight
Did you clean and grease your slider pins? That's an important step.
Nick V they had enough grease on em but I had a packet just in case
Good video. I can only imagine how many F bombs you dropped when chipping away at those screws with a chisel. Rust is the worst!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I need to do my 2011 brake pads. Pray for me.
Some guys keep saying use an impact screwdriver to remove the rusted on screws. But no one has actually said it worked for them.
I just did the front brakes on my 2014 and the impact driver worked like a charm.
I used an impact screw driver to remove the mounting screw. I bought the tool at Orielly auto parts for 13 bucks. It worked well and quickly. An hey, one more thing, be a professional and stop the bad language.
Yeah but were the screws fucking rusted on there really good?
Buddy I gave u your like but u just need too take out the bottle screw for the oad
Need an impact screw driver
They charged me $500 my front brake pads. OMG! Next time ill do it too..
Impact screwdrivers do wonders
Nyimak
F#ck Yeah, thanks for the info dude...
An impact driver is your friend
Thumbs up for all the F bombs!
I didn't read all the comments, but have you ever heard of an impact driver?
What a cowboy, use a impact screw driver.
Go for it bud. Let us know if that did the trick.
next time, invest in a impact screwdriver to take off the rotor screws.
Very fucking helpful, you fucker! :-)
I always drill out those little screws and never put them back they serve no purpose except for the assembly line , most other cars don't even use them at all , what's really funny after all this hard f job some put them back in total BS
I put them back in but never-seized the back of the rotor and the screws and the holes
Impact screwdriver!!
“Okay so I’m not going to show you how to replace the break pads”
You don't change just one rotor.
I just drill them out
You're beautiful language.lol
It looked like 50 year old brakes. OMFG do not salt roads.
Follow this guy at your peril he is just a chancer and not a trained mechanic. Just take a look at what he is wearing for a start and hitting two hammer faces together is a no! no! Obviously no one has shown him or told him about impact screw drivers. Stick to swearing mate and give repairing a car a rest before you hurt yourself or some poor bugger does on your instruction!
candid nikon Not one person has commented that an impact screwdriver actually worked on really rusted in screws. This is Cleveland Ohio where road salt is off the charts. Also, there's a good fucking reason this video has a fuck ton of likes and views, starting with my awesome flip flops. Good day,,,
mugs132 but I thought only mechanics can do mechanic things?
hes wearing that kind of clothing because he is an everyday person, just like the people hes making this video for. when I see videos of people wearing mechanic clothing, in my head I'm like "ok obviously they have EVERYTHING they need cuz theyre in a shop while I'm in a townhouse parking lot. I see this guy and I think "ok he can do it with what he has, so can I". and hes real about it instead of making it seem piece of cheesecake
That's 100 people then that are as stupid as you and it could be on the moon because who is really interested in road salt. I don't know who trained you mate but one thing for sure they must have been as bad as you or worse to pass on such unsafe working practices especially with your PPE, however you might not understand what that means?
He needs to stick to being an everyday person before he injures himself. People wear mechanics clothing to protect themselves from injury by especially not working with sandals on or bare legs. Yes he is real but sadly doesn't know any better.