Nice work. I use the same method for elevated curves. Only difference is that I do HO. Much better then using plastic styrene shims. Thanks for sharing. -Kris
Very informative video. I’m an N scale modeler myself. Once I have my permanent layout set up for the staging area, I will build the second level & have an incline/decline set up having a grade of 1.25% so when I have long freights running it will have an easier uphill climb & downhill descend to the staging area. My N scale railroad is the Pacific West Coast Railroad.
The only concern I would have is the use of regular white glue to attach your track. White glue is water soluble, if you’re going to ballast the track at a later date, wetting and gluing the track during ballasting could potentially soften the glue holding the track down and disturbing the alignment before it hardens again. Caulk or yellow carpenters glue would be a more secure alternative. Just my two cents.
I agree. Personally, I use Loctite Power Grab Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive (clear) for cork foam and track. It dries clear. You can reposition it for up to 15 minutes and cures in 10-12 hours. It cleans up with water but after it sets, water won't bother it. I comes in tubes for caulk guns but I use the squeeze tubes.
I see you put the push pins in the holes on the track. Might not it have been better to secure the track by placing the pins more toward the inside rail between the ties so to get your super elevation? Pushing the pins all the way down or shim them maybe. Just a thought.
I'm subscribed, and have been enjoying your videos for a while now,;you do some great work My question involves grade transitions. If I understand correctly, you went from 0% (flat) to 2% incline, and the flex track blended that transition sufficiently, without problems? Thanks!
Great video. I'm looking to build in N scale using Kato Unitrack. What are your thoughts re roadbed? Do you think it's necessary or could the Unitrack be mounted and glued directly to the foam with no issues? Kato introduced a flex track option and there will be parts of the layout where this will be used and likely I will use cork roadbed for these areas. Thanks 😊🙏
@@nscaler454 Yes, that is the best way for curving track through long curves. It keeps the "kink" from occurring at the joint. The layout is coming along nicely, keep it up.
because the cork gets laid in two pieces, so only the outer side would be elevated and the track would not sit flat on it. Also since cork is soft, when doing the transitions, it might not give a flat grade
Nice video and inspiration for me as I develop my N scale layout. Question - When you ballast this curve, how will you keep the ballast from falling in between the folds of the risers and inclination sets?
Once you've laid the risers and before laying roadbed or track place masking tape over the risers. Or use plaster cloth after you've laid track. Either option works.
Because the cork is split in half which means one side of the cork gets superelevation while the other lays flat, so the track may not get the correct camber. With the tape on top, you have better control of getting the edge of the outside rail ties to sit on top and thus giving the precise superelevation that you desire
Discovered your channel recently, watched all videos, following along: exactly the examples and tips I need in starting my N layout! Got some of the 2% WS Incline/Decline sets and am wondering at 2.5" wide: is that OK for 2 parallel tracks? Seems a bit tight especially in a curve, but 2 of the WS next to each other is space-hogging overkill. Any suggestions? Keep 'em coming!
Foam Nails? - All those Foam Nails are is nothing more than common "T" pins of which you can pick up at almost any local sewing , craft or fabric store including Walmart. - I just bought two more packages of them to use on my own N-Scale layout today at walmart for $1.44 a package. - I'm not about to pay a higher price from Woodland Scenics hobby shops, from Amazon, or from other Model Railroad hobby shops under the brand name of Foam Nails and then have to wait for them to be shipped to me. - Not when I can pick them up today myself at Walmart under the common definition of "T" Pins. - They should be located in isle 32 at most Walmart stores.
@@thinredlinerails8240 First draft was pencil and paper, then I created it on AutoCAD, then I got AnyRail and designed it further. I highly recommend AnyRail and I made a couple videos on it.
That was very easy to install. Thanks for the video.
Nice job, your track work looks good. Bob
Thanks! I am really trying to make sure the track work is as good as I can make it.
The T pins are a great idea. I get mine at a dollar store and save a money that I can use on other scenery products.
Nice! .030 sheet styrene cut to 1/8 strips works well too. In N scale, .030 styrene = 4 3/4" height in the real world.
Nice work. I use the same method for elevated curves. Only difference is that I do HO.
Much better then using plastic styrene shims.
Thanks for sharing.
-Kris
I like those box cars, I think I bought a couple show before last!
Very informative video. I’m an N scale modeler myself. Once I have my permanent layout set up for the staging area, I will build the second level & have an incline/decline set up having a grade of 1.25% so when I have long freights running it will have an easier uphill climb & downhill descend to the staging area. My N scale railroad is the Pacific West Coast Railroad.
Going with the minimum grade and largest radius' possible is always better for train operation. Sounds like a great layout
The only concern I would have is the use of regular white glue to attach your track. White glue is water soluble, if you’re going to ballast the track at a later date, wetting and gluing the track during ballasting could potentially soften the glue holding the track down and disturbing the alignment before it hardens again.
Caulk or yellow carpenters glue would be a more secure alternative. Just my two cents.
That has certainly crossed my mind. I hope to get some ballast soon and I can do a test and find out.
I agree. Personally, I use Loctite Power Grab Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive (clear) for cork foam and track. It dries clear. You can reposition it for up to 15 minutes and cures in 10-12 hours. It cleans up with water but after it sets, water won't bother it. I comes in tubes for caulk guns but I use the squeeze tubes.
thank you for sharing
Very Interesting Thinking of using that Debating On how to.
Great work. Not worried about losing a train over the edge?
nah. I don't plan to run my trains fast enough.
I see you put the push pins in the holes on the track. Might not it have been better to secure the track by placing the pins more toward the inside rail between the ties so to get your super elevation? Pushing the pins all the way down or shim them maybe. Just a thought.
That's great work. I think the Kato doubletrack has built in super-L, should you decide to do this again in another location.
Very cool
nice video very imformational im planning to make a layout of mannasas va soon.
I hope you film and upload
Cool video
I'm subscribed, and have been enjoying your videos for a while now,;you do some great work My question involves grade transitions. If I understand correctly, you went from 0% (flat) to 2% incline, and the flex track blended that transition sufficiently, without problems? Thanks!
Here’s My Thought before Glueing the Risers Round Off The Edge just a hair to Look good For the mountains or Hill Look.
Nice video
Great video. I'm looking to build in N scale using Kato Unitrack. What are your thoughts re roadbed? Do you think it's necessary or could the Unitrack be mounted and glued directly to the foam with no issues? Kato introduced a flex track option and there will be parts of the layout where this will be used and likely I will use cork roadbed for these areas. Thanks 😊🙏
I wouldn't bother with cork when using Unitrack. I would glue it straight to the foam board.
Insightful 🤔🤔🤔🤔
Just round Off the Edges Wa La.
I like how foam can be sculpted easily
By chance did you solder your joiners on your curve before bending it in position?
Nope. I thought about that after I bent the track. I figured I should try soldering 2 pieces of flextrack together before trying to bend them.
@@nscaler454 Yes, that is the best way for curving track through long curves. It keeps the "kink" from occurring at the joint. The layout is coming along nicely, keep it up.
@@ronheiser3248 Thanks!
Why didn't you put the painters tape under the cork?
because the cork gets laid in two pieces, so only the outer side would be elevated and the track would not sit flat on it. Also since cork is soft, when doing the transitions, it might not give a flat grade
Nice video and inspiration for me as I develop my N scale layout. Question - When you ballast this curve, how will you keep the ballast from falling in between the folds of the risers and inclination sets?
I will plaster over the risers before ballasting.
Once you've laid the risers and before laying roadbed or track place masking tape over the risers. Or use plaster cloth after you've laid track. Either option works.
I guess he's not worried about the floor models
Hi, I was wondering if there was a reason you didn't put the tape under the cork?
Yep, under the cork does make it a bit easier.
Because the cork is split in half which means one side of the cork gets superelevation while the other lays flat, so the track may not get the correct camber. With the tape on top, you have better control of getting the edge of the outside rail ties to sit on top and thus giving the precise superelevation that you desire
Discovered your channel recently, watched all videos, following along: exactly the examples and tips I need in starting my N layout! Got some of the 2% WS Incline/Decline sets and am wondering at 2.5" wide: is that OK for 2 parallel tracks? Seems a bit tight especially in a curve, but 2 of the WS next to each other is space-hogging overkill. Any suggestions? Keep 'em coming!
I would want at least a 1.5" track spacing, which might be doable on a single strip of foam if you put the track to the outside edges.
i have Ws 2% risers and works well with double track kato unitrack. should be fine :) also can cut the foam after you glue it down to trim the excess
Would a thicker tape like duct tape work for elevating the rails with fewer layers, or is it more difficult to work with?
duct tape would be too thick and inconsistent. I don't think you'd ever get a good gradient.
Super elevated is tricky in model trains, tad too much and entire train will fall towards low side. (Long trains)
Where did you get the Chem plant/ refinery back drop?
I did the photoshop work on it, but the picture came from Shutterstock.
@@nscaler454 Thanks. Can’t get a good look at to decide what you got a picture of.
Why not use 1/4" masking tape instead of cutting strips of tape?
I would assume that would work. I'm cheap so I used what I had available already.
Foam Nails? - All those Foam Nails are is nothing more than common "T" pins of which you can pick up at almost any local sewing , craft or fabric store including Walmart. - I just bought two more packages of them to use on my own N-Scale layout today at walmart for $1.44 a package. - I'm not about to pay a higher price from Woodland Scenics hobby shops, from Amazon, or from other Model Railroad hobby shops under the brand name of Foam Nails and then have to wait for them to be shipped to me. - Not when I can pick them up today myself at Walmart under the common definition of "T" Pins. - They should be located in isle 32 at most Walmart stores.
Great tip. Anywhere to save money is a good thing
Where did u get your track plan from?
I made it myself
@@nscaler454 nice May I ask what program
@@thinredlinerails8240 First draft was pencil and paper, then I created it on AutoCAD, then I got AnyRail and designed it further. I highly recommend AnyRail and I made a couple videos on it.
Combine the 2%&3% in opposite directions and end up 1%
How well do the Woodland Scenics Risers and Inclines work for sound deadening when placed on plywood?
I'd say very good, especially as it gets thicker. It's not as dense as extruded foam, and when you put some cork on it, it dampens things even more.
Hate to tell you this but I live next to a railroad and they're noisy love things to be the way they're supposed to be
you look like eminem
I wish I had Eminem money.