What you could probably do when doing crossings, is use an old car to get the material away from the rails with the flanges on the wheels themselves. It makes it easier and it goes rather quickly...
Nice video update looks good , I use on my roads of plaster before I paint a coat of primer midel what you use noormaal on plaster wall so the plaster does not suck up the paint .
I found sakura gellyroll pens are fantastic for N scale road striping. Their yellow and their white very closely match actual road stripe colours, and the thickness of the line is spot on for N scale too. They have one of the best opacity white ballpoint pens on the market.
You might want to look into dry brush highlighting for the pavement to add some variation. Look into miniature paiting and their dry brush methods that could help you out.
It looks Great! Just out of curiosity; Roughly how many hours (days) did you put in on the roadway? I like the crack details along with the new asphalt. How about leaving a pot hole or two, with a road crew working. I modeled a refinery industrial area also, since I worked in one, got lots of good ideas from the real thing. Super job, anxiously await your next video update.
It took about a week. Maybe more when you include experiments. Prep, Plaster, dry. More plaster, dry. Several layers of paint requiring dry time between each of them. It was a process. A road crew is an interesting idea, maybe in a different part of the layout. Thanks
Hey thanks for a great video (only the 3rd one Ive seen so far). I use a light grey tile grout mixing it into a paste without the plaster for the base colour on my roads, then I dry brush a darker grey and dry plaster to blend and get texture. I tip I picked up when mixing plaster (and grout) with water is to add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to the water before mixing the plaster or grout. This helps with the mixing, gives you a creamier mix to work with and slows down the drying process giving you more working time with the material. For freshly gravelled asphalt roads, I use a very fine grain light grey ballast mixed with a slightly darker grey tile grout. A 50/50 mix of PVA glue and water (with a drop or 2 of dishwashing liquid) is applied to the road base with a brush the width of my road, then I sprinkle the dry mix of ballast and grout onto the road base. Leave it to soak in and dry, then I use a slightly smaller width brush with a soft bristle to brush the excess material off and to level the road surface. You may have to apply more coats of the glue/water mix over the road to make it all stick. On both types of road you can use dry tile grout to highlight areas such as newer surfaces or defective spots with very pleasing results. You can also use brown or beige coloured (English spelling) grout to make dirt roads too. Love the idea of flange gaps at the crossings, and the use of the felt pen for doing the cracks. Again, thanks for a great video, sorry for the long winded comments - Cheers, Bruce
I think it looks good great job. Back in the day most roads were tar and gravel. So I’m trying to figure out how to do that. Have any suggestion’s or ideas it will very appreciative. I do enjoy watching your videos and progress. Thanks for sharing. Have a good day.
I would lay a gritty texture for the roads. Something like sanded grout and use my finger to smooth it out. Then I would air brush it with a thin black paint. Maybe a dab of brown in it.
I like what you’re doing are used drywall mud and then when it dries it kind of cracks or gives a colic the road cracks and I just paid it with payment black. Would you get at Walmart for like a dollar in the craft section and don’t forget to add curves to your buildings, when you lay them, can’t wait to see what you’re doing
@@nscaler454 yeah I got the idea from Ken Pattersons UA-cam page. If your interested I can email you pictures of it. It's my favorite. It also looks amazing when you get the paint line decals on.
It looks outstanding! Very similar to the method I use. One word if caution for the future. IPA can cause serious problems to your road colors so be careful if you use it when you start applying scenery.
Looks really good. I am just starting to lay out my whole set up so I am looking at various ways to do this. yes roads are a part of them. Have to ask this...Did you have to lay the cork out first for better adhesion OR could you have just plastered over the foam? I saw with the test patches it did not want to stick well. Thinking if the foam was roughed up a little it would stick better. Thanks It's been a great help and being in Canada it is good to see the products I can get as well.
I put the cork down to gain 1/8" of elevation. Plaster does stick to foam, but as you saw different plasters have different levels of adhesion. I am sure the plasters stick better to the cork than to the foam.
Nice tip for filling in between the rails of a crossing. It's much better than what I did. The cardboard you used, is it just from a cereal box or thicker? Take care. Sean.
There are so many ways you could have done this, only advice is to get the book "How to Build Realistic Model Railroad Scenery" great book with tons of information on the subject.
That roadway along the vertical scenery shouldn't be that close. Put some foliage al9ng that area so cut your roadway narrower back there. Roads seem pretty wide for N scale. Some roads aren't 25 feet wide.
Research would good here. Not all pavement is the same color. There are sometimes NEW sections that are brand new repairs. Thus very black cuz they are new. Very old pavement is a lighter shade of black-ish tone. Don't forget tire wear as well. Need to realize the area you are doing. New vs old.
Looks great to me. There are many ways to make, color, detail, and weather roads. Yours came out well. Thanks.
What you could probably do when doing crossings, is use an old car to get the material away from the rails with the flanges on the wheels themselves. It makes it easier and it goes rather quickly...
That's a good idea.
Nice video update looks good , I use on my roads of plaster before I paint a coat of primer midel what you use noormaal on plaster wall so the plaster does not suck up the paint .
Use smooth calc from woodland scenic then paint with their asphalt color. Works great. Hardest thing to do is painting the yellow line. Good job 👍
I found sakura gellyroll pens are fantastic for N scale road striping. Their yellow and their white very closely match actual road stripe colours, and the thickness of the line is spot on for N scale too. They have one of the best opacity white ballpoint pens on the market.
@@baronjutter that’s awesome, thanks. I just ordered yellow stripes stickers. But if they don’t look right i will try the pen.
wow great work the layout is looking awesome thx for the update.
Good job in the road of the N scale layout.
Railroad crossing.
As far as your paved areas go, I think you did a very good job. I like the effect and results when everything dried.
The road looks great. Thanks for the update. Arthur!
@23:00 that’s a coolant leak from a broken down car ore something. 😂
You might want to look into dry brush highlighting for the pavement to add some variation. Look into miniature paiting and their dry brush methods that could help you out.
It looks Great! Just out of curiosity; Roughly how many hours (days) did you put in on the roadway? I like the crack details along with the new asphalt. How about leaving a pot hole or two, with a road crew working. I modeled a refinery industrial area also, since I worked in one, got lots of good ideas from the real thing. Super job, anxiously await your next video update.
It took about a week. Maybe more when you include experiments. Prep, Plaster, dry. More plaster, dry. Several layers of paint requiring dry time between each of them. It was a process. A road crew is an interesting idea, maybe in a different part of the layout. Thanks
Hey thanks for a great video (only the 3rd one Ive seen so far). I use a light grey tile grout mixing it into a paste without the plaster for the base colour on my roads, then I dry brush a darker grey and dry plaster to blend and get texture. I tip I picked up when mixing plaster (and grout) with water is to add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to the water before mixing the plaster or grout. This helps with the mixing, gives you a creamier mix to work with and slows down the drying process giving you more working time with the material. For freshly gravelled asphalt roads, I use a very fine grain light grey ballast mixed with a slightly darker grey tile grout. A 50/50 mix of PVA glue and water (with a drop or 2 of dishwashing liquid) is applied to the road base with a brush the width of my road, then I sprinkle the dry mix of ballast and grout onto the road base. Leave it to soak in and dry, then I use a slightly smaller width brush with a soft bristle to brush the excess material off and to level the road surface. You may have to apply more coats of the glue/water mix over the road to make it all stick. On both types of road you can use dry tile grout to highlight areas such as newer surfaces or defective spots with very pleasing results. You can also use brown or beige coloured (English spelling) grout to make dirt roads too. Love the idea of flange gaps at the crossings, and the use of the felt pen for doing the cracks. Again, thanks for a great video, sorry for the long winded comments - Cheers, Bruce
That's a heck of a process. Thanks for providing a step by step. I love new tips and tricks on how to do scenery .
Where the drip from the paint is, you could make it a stormdrain, or manhole cover! Great looking so far
Actually adding manholes/ stormdrain throughout the pavement would look great
I love the idea of manhole covers. I'm sure I could 3D print some, and experiment with a good way to install them.
I think it looks good great job. Back in the day most roads were tar and gravel. So I’m trying to figure out how to do that. Have any suggestion’s or ideas it will very appreciative. I do enjoy watching your videos and progress. Thanks for sharing. Have a good day.
I would lay a gritty texture for the roads. Something like sanded grout and use my finger to smooth it out. Then I would air brush it with a thin black paint. Maybe a dab of brown in it.
All my roads are made from foam poster broad, just peel the paper off and it takes paint nice. Bob
That's a good idea. I think I will try a foam parking lot in a different section down the line.
I like what you’re doing are used drywall mud and then when it dries it kind of cracks or gives a colic the road cracks and I just paid it with payment black. Would you get at Walmart for like a dollar in the craft section and don’t forget to add curves to your buildings, when you lay them, can’t wait to see what you’re doing
Looking good so far!
thanks
You may already have 'artist's spatulas' or 'palette knives'. They're ideal for precise application of plaster or sculpta-mold.
I know what you're talking about and I wished I had one haha.
🇧🇷🚂👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Sempre conteúdos excelentes!!
I like to use Dap concrete patch and india ink mixed with alcohol. Leaves perfect little cracks and has a great weathered paved look
Interesting, never heard of that combo. Might need to look into it.
@@nscaler454 yeah I got the idea from Ken Pattersons UA-cam page. If your interested I can email you pictures of it. It's my favorite. It also looks amazing when you get the paint line decals on.
I like it.
It looks outstanding! Very similar to the method I use. One word if caution for the future. IPA can cause serious problems to your road colors so be careful if you use it when you start applying scenery.
Thanks for the tip!
Try using black gray catck wet and dry
For my stripes and white lines I didn't want to use more paint on the roads so I went to my local automobile shop and got some pinstripe tape
how did it turn out?
Looks really good. I am just starting to lay out my whole set up so I am looking at various ways to do this. yes roads are a part of them.
Have to ask this...Did you have to lay the cork out first for better adhesion OR could you have just plastered over the foam? I saw with the test patches it did not want to stick well. Thinking if the foam was roughed up a little it would stick better. Thanks
It's been a great help and being in Canada it is good to see the products I can get as well.
I put the cork down to gain 1/8" of elevation. Plaster does stick to foam, but as you saw different plasters have different levels of adhesion. I am sure the plasters stick better to the cork than to the foam.
Nice tip for filling in between the rails of a crossing. It's much better than what I did. The cardboard you used, is it just from a cereal box or thicker? Take care. Sean.
A cereal box. We hobbyists need to use what we have available haha.
Definitely, I call my RR Pennywise for a reason lol
There are so many ways you could have done this, only advice is to get the book "How to Build Realistic Model Railroad Scenery" great book with tons of information on the subject.
Thanks I’ll give it a try do some samples first.
Get some black paint black dolphin gray at Walmart for like a dollar and mix them up a little. Don’t add water don’t mix and then paint it might help.
hello n scaleer454 its is randy and i like u video is cool nsscaler454 thanks friends randy
That roadway along the vertical scenery shouldn't be that close. Put some foliage al9ng that area so cut your roadway narrower back there. Roads seem pretty wide for N scale. Some roads aren't 25 feet wide.
💯👍 i like u video
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Research would good here. Not all pavement is the same color. There are sometimes NEW sections that are brand new repairs. Thus very black cuz they are new. Very old pavement is a lighter shade of black-ish tone. Don't forget tire wear as well. Need to realize the area you are doing. New vs old.