Thanks for the refresher video. Replaced crank sensor at 130k miles and decided to replace it again when replacing timing belts, 3 pulley bearings, waterpump, crankshaft seal and valve cover at 200k miles. Found a complete parts kit with everything but the sensor, on Ebay for $90. Sensor was only $55 at Autozone, with a lifetime warranty.
Thanks so much for posting this! I had my CKPS replaced 2.5 years ago and they charged me $325 parts and labor (which turned out to be a deal, apparently). I'm now having the same problem with the new CKPS 40,000 miles later...I just got a quote today of $400 to replace it, but after seeing your video I'm thinking I may just do this myself. I'm waiting on the edge of my seat for your replacement video. Thanks again!
Thanks for the bid but it is true that you left a few steps out. Had to removed two pullys, the alt. belt and the ps/ac belt. I also had to loosen the timing belt to get the old sensor out and the new one in but I was careful to retention the belt in the exact same notches it was in when I started and the car runs fine. The only problem I've encountered is a mysterious oil leak that I'm about to have track down. Makes no sense since I didn't have to undo anything oil related.
I thank you greatly for sharing this video and for being eloquent explicit enough so that I don't have to spend half an hour watching others videos to put 2 and 2 together. Thanks again. God bless.
Your the greatest person. I'm so glad you posted this video there is nothing on the web that shows the sensor, even thought it's a rampant problem on those 2.4l's
Excellent. Much appreciated. I wish I had something like this when I waded in over my head doing the belts on my daughter's Eclipse. Dern neer brok down cryn' like a baby! (but . . . I didn't) Got it done. Now looking at this job on my Sonata.
You was right. I did need that picture. Do those parts of that Lil thin piece of metal actually line up and go thru the slot? I wished u had of shown when u pull that plate back and remove the sensor. Which u prolly did in another video. Thank you
Thanks for that,,i did the timing while i was there and new sensor your video helped a lot,,,when i first removed the cover it was covered in a oily sludge so i cleaned it all off and nice and shiny,,fit all new parts and closed ut up,job done driving great,,,,but now i seem to have a small oil leak from behind the cover so im assuming it was always there hense me cleaning the old tick sludge,,,,im planning on going back in would you suggest anything,, cheers john 👍
Our Santa Fe started stalling about a month ago. But didn't throw a code changed out the Camshaft sensor and cleaned the throttle body which needed it and noticed the cable was loose. Started idling better but didn't fix the stalling made it infrequent.While under the hood I noticed the valve cover was leaking. Some knucklehead didn't torque the bolts down. Also noticed a hard shifting. So I changed out the input output sensors and the egr valve. EGR was stuck actually need to just be cleaned but got the valve for 18 bucks online. But still no fix other than better shifting and idling/running. Finally throws the code to pin point the crank sensor. Belt was in good shape looks like it was changed before we bought it 3 years ago. Only have put on 13k on it since buying it. Had to splice the sensor in. I soldered and used heat shrink tube on each wire and one on all three. Moral of the story is the leaking valve cover ruined the crank sensor. Was coated in oil. The input sensor on the transmission was sitting in oil. Valve cover gasket kits for the 2.4l are around 12 bucks.
Excellent information video. Just had to get mine done. Maybe next time I will do it myself. Why Hyundai did not make the sensor plug and play I have no idea. Thanks again. Steve, Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
By the way, I accidentally mounted the sensor backwards and the engine obviously would not start. Took me a little bit to figure this out. The magnetic pickup, mounted with the 2 screws, should face inwards. I think it picks up the rotation of the thin plate, behind the crankshaft gear. My Santa Fe is a 2003 with the 2.4L four cylinder engine. Good Luck!
@fdeldredge I don't really know if that would work okay or not. I'm guessing there may be a problem caused by the cutting and splicing. It might make the project much easier if it could be done without a problem. You likely need to ask an automotive electrical expert.
Your correct, two veins on crankshaft assembly coinsides with triggering the two ignition coils fireing two sparkplugs each, this is a unique opperation at bisected RPM intervals appearing to opperate at begining & end of either open or closed mag-switch functioning🤔 (supposedly anyway) Hey dance the nanushka with Gomez🎵🎵🎵🎵🎵! Good Vid👍O
keeping them cams still were a pain untill i found a little trick use 2 17mm wrenches hold both cams at there timing mark with some muscle because you will be fighting against the spring tension, then just slide in between the teeth one of those 10mm timing cover bolts with the built in washer.. the washer will wedgie between the gears and hold them still.. worked just fine for me!
Thanks for the quick reply! I have an OBDII scanner and the Torque app on my phone. There are no codes being thrown, and I was unable to find anything out of the ordinary. The symptoms you describe are pretty much exactly what I'm experiencing. I was starting to think the engine was either starving of fuel (Pump, Filter, Pressure Regulator), or air (clogged Cat. Conv.?) My S.F. has 130,000 miles. This problem only started after the valve cover gasket oil leak, which probably saturated the CPS.
im kinda in the same boat, my car starts up reall fast but the passenger side at the motor mount vibrates like hell when reved up. sounds like i dont have a muffler.. but when i take the bolt out the mount its quiet.. smh im just glad its running.. been on the front yard for 2 years out of commission...
Thank you for posting this very informational video. - While the job itself may take some time & patience,, it doesn't seem too difficult for someone who has some mechanical skills.
This may not be the best approach what I am suggesting, but I am thinking since the wire is already there, from the original CKP, then instead of removing the other components, to try to fit and route the wire along the recommended path, why not just cut the wires at the ckp and attach the two wires to the new CKP. Ofcourse it will mean cutting the wire from the new CKP as well. Provided that the original wire is ok,which I think can be checked with a multimeter. Labor can be saved.
this is a great video but i seem to be having more problems relating to this, did you change the angle sensor as well as the CPS? also make sure you replace that crank balance belt just behind that angle sensor or else its another $400 labour in the future getting there for that belt. i would also like to see the second segment you suggested.
I have 2007 hyundai sonata 2.4 L. I am having a hard time located the camshaft position sensor on the engine. Do you happen to know where this one is located? I love your video .
Whats not mentioned is that timing belt removal is also required to remove this sensor and it's unnecessarily long harness, which in turn means re-timing the engine and its corresponding balance shaft(the sprocket on the right in this video) is absolutely necessary, and if re-timing is not done 100% properly, you can end up bending valves and/or the balance shafts out of phase which can make the engine sound "buzzy" or "raspy" when revved. And don't forget the smaller balance belt behind the re
The car may cut off unexpectedly and crank back up, this may get more frequent until it just won't run at all. It may run rough, be hard to start, or not start up at all. Sometimes mimicks a fuel problem. This is very common for vehicles between 100Kand 160K miles. The things just go bad, could also be age- 10 years, estimated. Other problems may also cause similar symptoms. There is an electronics diagnosis for it- check with Autozone, etc for code info. Good luck, hope it helps.
i di this today and gave up. i could not remove the timing cover which was stuck on the left upper pulley. Managed to release sensor but its wire is litterally stuck.
Just trying to be helpful. Left some common stuff out for brevity, and did state that a person needs mechanical ability before taking on the task, I think. Common sense, you have to remove belts, etc. I think I changed the CPS without taking the timing belt off- but it was tight. Overall, I hope the video is helpful.
How did you know the sensor failed & needed replacement? What were the symptoms? The reason I ask is because I suspect the CPS may have gone out on my '02 Santa Fe. The engine runs (barely), & the car moves under it's own power, but won't go above 20mph. If I mash the gas pedal, RPM's drop, engine stalls. There was an oil leak (failed valve cover gasket), which spilled oil all over this side of the engine. I'd like to be able to test the sensor before replacing & simply throwing parts at it.
I have this engine in a 2004 sonata and not sure how to actually get to the sensor since the car's inside fender well is solid metal and you can't get to it unlike the video above with the santa fe. Do I have to drop the engine down to get to it and does that give enough room or is there another secret to it?
Hey Cubmancan, Im doing this same job right now and have a question about the timing gear on the crankshaft. mine is one peace with the gear attached to the harmonic balancer but urs is not? confused.
Can just the wire go bad? I had my sensor replaced once already. I could replace the sensor again but the wire is frayed on the top end. Hyundai is giving me a hard time about fixing it. I have an 02 Sonata.
please help, my 03 hyundai santa fe timing belt broke while i was driving about 15mph in a subdivision and I changed the timing belt by aligning the marks on all gears then the engine starts quickly and shaking a lot and i did took out the timing and put back again thinking i missed the gear and better this time but it is rough, one thing I couldn't figure out is where is the oil balance shaft plug on the left side of the block ?? couldn't find it please help me as soon as possible
Updated! I just did a 2005 2. 4 liter Hyundai Sonata YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT. First take the sensor off remove to 10 millimeter screws, fish the sensor up toward the timing belt pulley just behind the power steering pulley, pull the sheath back on the wire, Pull the sensor wires between the back of the timing belt and on top of the pulley, the pulley will roll and the sensor will come right out. Timing will not be changed at all because nothing was removed. Wallahhh do it yourself!
Dallas Henry Yes it will work on a 2003 with the 2.4L. You still have to strip the whole passenger side of the engine down and its a MF but you do not have to remove the belt.
Its way to detailed to type. Basically you have to take off everything on the passenger side that covers the belts. Once you got a totally clear view of the belts disconnect the crank sensor and fish it up and out. You will understand once you get to that point. There is not written instructions I found out by accident.
Hi can I just confirm with you please this is definitely crankshaft sensor and not camshaft sensor,,,I have same engine but it's a 2.0 litre petrol and I'm getting crankshaft position sensor faulty,,I looked around for another sensor and cannot find one,,,, cheers john
On this model, this is the sensor that is triggered by the crankshaft. That is the shaft that the lower pulley is on at the bottom front of the engine. Thanks
Timming belt replaced on my 2005 2.4 santa fe cost £659, inc parts. next day went for a run got about 4mls car cut out. called out AA auto .took about 35mins, mechanic connected to commputer came up with crankshaft sensor fault. tried to start but just turned over,said it could be dirt on sensor short on wire or faulty sensor. was about to trailer me home after checking for faults. turned key car started. Got home just as it cut out. next day at garage new sensor fitted. Cost £256. 14/9/03 UK
Thank you. I think I'll just cut them wires off the old one solder the new wires to him and go from there. That is of course if the old wires are good. I was starting to think they didn't have a damn crankshaft position sensor on it.
Anyone know where I can download a Wiring Schematic for a 2004 Sonata ? I have no power on ECM control relay pin 6.Since it doesn't have a fuse. I do not want to bypass the power on pin 6.
can you please tell me if that big bolt in the middle is left handed or right handed to replace the plate its self... and is it possable to splice the wire to replace that damn sensor !
A little late but I used a breaker bar (wirh a 7/8" socket) on that crank bolt. Try to get close to 90° and even. Disconnect your two (I have a 2004 Optima 4cyl) ignition coil pack plugs and start the car for a half-second. Turn keys back and you should see your breaker still on the socket. Untigten by hand. Getting back on is trickier, may require two sets of hands.
I have a Hyundai sonata 2004 model ..the engine tumbles but the car isn't starting, I saw the timing belt bursted....can someone tell me if this is the problem? Would the car start once I replace the timing belt?
Make sure which belt broke: The timing belt will have "notches" on it and is under a cover on front of the engine (which is the side away from the transmission.) If the timing belt is broken the engine will not run at all. This timing belt allows the valves to open and close at the correct time (valves which allow intake and exhaust will not move without this belt). Unfortunately, if the engine rotated at all when the belt broke, it likely bent some valves in the head, as some probably hit the pistons. If that is the case, you will have damage to the heads, and maybe some parts in the "engine block." I have heard of an engine that ran with two valves bent after a broken belt was replaced, but it is EXTREMELY unlikely, and would have little power, and run VERY rough. Sorry for the potentially bad news, Hopefully you can have it looked at by an honest and educated mechanic.
My mechanic tried to replace the sensor and the plate that runs on the shaft. When he started the engine, it destroyed the plate. They tried a second one and it did the same thing. Is there something that would go out of position on the crankshaft that would just show up. They told me that the bearing are worn out and allow the shaft to shift about 1/8 inch. Does this happen?
+Brian Geffre The plate is held in place by a key in the Crankshaft.I had a Balance shaft belt (the small one) that broke the key.He may also have put the Crank Sensor on upside down.THE RED WIRE GOES UP and the blade of the plate passes between a fixed and electrically excited magnet.(This is called a Halls effect switch.Every time the field is interrupted it tells the computer to fire plugs and Injectors when to spray fuel.
Looks like when you remove that thing, the timing belt is in way of the wire and plug. Were you able to remove it without loosening the belt? Personally, I would cut the wires and connect the new unit using crimps.
i hope someone can help me out, so i replace this crankshaft position sensor (on a 2.4) along with all the belt. but now when i try to start her up she cranks but wont turned over, can anyone help me out here?
This video here walks you through all the steps I just added a twist. If you are not sure how to strip down an engine without instructions I am not sure if you should be tackling this. I have been doing this for 20 years and i still cursed profusely at what the engineers were thinking with this car.
i watched one of your video when i was on the spot; unfortunately, you had already stripped everything. In my trial and error, i was trying to remove the serpentine and alternator pulley at the bottom but guess what? All came off in 1 peace leaving my timing belt naked. All this to remove the bottom timing cover which is still stuck in there. I still managed to release the sensor but its wire is stuck by something. I actually gave up calling Hyundai all kinda names to make this so complicated.
With the autozone unit it lasted exactly 1 year and then failed. The customer also had a valve cover that was leaking very bad which i am sure contributed to the early failure. If you got a quality sensor you shouldn't have the same issue.
Alex Mendez : My FIRST EXPERIENCE W/ Bad One,Was A VERY ERATIC TACH.FIRST COUPLE OF TIMES,BUT TACH WOULD GO BACK TO NORMAL, BUT NOT BEFORE LOSS OF POWER,WHILE IT WAS JUMPING AROUND. WOULD HAPPEN AGAIN A FEW DAYS LATER UNTILL IT FINALLY JUST WOULD NOT STOP THR ERATIC JUMPING BACK & FORTH & JUST SHUT ENGINE COMPLETELY OFF.& WOULD NOT RECRANK,ONLY TO HAVE TO BE TOWED IN THINKING T.BELT HAD JUMPED TIMING OR BROKE.STORY IS THAT DEALER CSP SENSORS WILL GIVE U THESE WARNINGS A FEW TIMES,BEFORE GOING COMPLETELY SOUTH,WHERAS AN AFTERMARKET ONE WILL GO BAD AFTER ONLY ONCE OR TWICE ACTING ERATICALLLY,LIKE MY OREILLY' S SENSOR DID.THE END THAT DOESNT HAVE THE RUBBER CONDUIT TENDS TO GET CRIMPED SOME WHERE BETWEEN THE FEED FROM TOP OF ENG.THRU THE T.BELT ASSEMBLY OR THE 3 ONE GUAGE WIRES GET PINCHED FROM A BAD VIBRATION IN ENG.PISS POOR DESIGN ON MFGS.PART.MY MECH.PUT A RUBBER CONDUIT ON THE 3 ,ONE GUAGE WIRES LAST TIME OREILLYS REPL.THEIR HOUSE BRAND FROM WARRANTY & IT HASN' T GONE BAD YET ,AFTER 80,000 MLS.ITS ADVISABLE FROM DEALER TO REPL.IT @ EVERY T.BELT CHANGE & USE A DEALER CSP.SENSOR,SO U WILL AT LEAST GET THE SEVERAL ERATIC WARNINGS FROM THE TACH NEEDLE ,BEFORE IT GOES SOUTH. SO MANY THINGS ON THE 2.4 ENG.TO REPL. EACH T.BELT CHANGE,THAT USUALLY ONLY A DEALER MECH.KNOWS,LIKE THE SETTING OF THE PENDELUM ," GRAVITY" DIAL THAT HAD 3 DIFF.SETTINGS & IF U DON' T GET IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME & DONT KNOW HOW TO PULL THE EXH.MANIFOLD LOOSE SO U CAN STICK A STUD PIN INTO THE HOLE, & IF IT DOESNT GO ALL WAY IN ,UR TIMING CAN STILL BE OFF.
I notice you didn't take out the sensor ??? How are Rookies like me going to know how to take it out ???? Also do you have remove the the belt ??? To get the sensor out ???
This is the second time I've replaced the sensor and I did remove the timing belt both times. I was not able to use 1trucavalier's method, as I could not work the wire sheath between the pulley and the belt. You have to have the sensor over the top of the pulley, to have sufficient space to pull the magnetic portion of the sensor through. It does not fit through, underneath the pulley.
+mden98 I just tried to do 1trucavaliers method. The belt is to tight to do it. If you notice the timing belt in his video is loose. I suspect the timing belt tensioner is removed. I went with plan b splice the wires.
Yes I did. Right on top of the valve cover. Here is a update of my problem. The sensor worked great after splicing it in. However I had other problems that I took care off as I went through the engine. What I thought was oil leakage from a loose valve cover. Which it was but also from the seals on the camshaft and crankshaft were also bad. Someone had replaced the timing belt but not the balancing belt. So a month ago that belt snapped on the freeway and took out the new crankshaft sensor. I ended up sending it to a shop for a new timing belt new seals, sensor and tensioner. Which didn't cost much Was quoted 550 for the belt seals and sensor. After every thing was said and done needed a new tensioner too. with tax around 700.
@@cubmancan it ia same job to rich it so 10min extra to remove belt is not worth to solder new one it ia same good to change it with removing belt. I mede one video to 😅
Good on your matethat was a big help and exactly the same pictures in my mind I was looking for to get mine done too... I’ve got well enough basic know how but didn‘t quite know exactly where it was and that wiring your right about that what a fucking pain in the ass
More and more municipalities are no longer legally bound to administer anything nor legally bound not to increase public debt. 90% of all public projects in the USA are dependant on a loan and are required to insure that loan (which is why AIC had so much business). If your town/county/state has a poor credit rating, you will have no public programs. Instead of letting local municipalities suffer, the US government stepped in (1937) to "fix" the problem. Does it take another great depression to show people how that doesn't work?
Lucio Alvarez : one I ordered thru on line @ EL CHEAPO PRICE was NO GOOD& NO WAY TO CHECK IT TILL U INSTALL IT,ONLY TO FIND ITS BAD AFTER 2-3.5 HRS OF INSTALLING IT
i had CODE PO340 Crank Angle Position Sensor (Fault ) 1/ i would cut the wires & either fish thru the new connection from other side of motor where it connects into OR 2/ cut wires ample above old & new sensor & use 2 BLUE female & male crimp terminals either into existing old wire connector or new wire if could fish it thru then all done
Thanks for the refresher video. Replaced crank sensor at 130k miles and decided to replace it again when replacing timing belts, 3 pulley bearings, waterpump, crankshaft seal and valve cover at 200k miles. Found a complete parts kit with everything but the sensor, on Ebay for $90. Sensor was only $55 at Autozone, with a lifetime warranty.
Thanks so much for posting this! I had my CKPS replaced 2.5 years ago and they charged me $325 parts and labor (which turned out to be a deal, apparently).
I'm now having the same problem with the new CKPS 40,000 miles later...I just got a quote today of $400 to replace it, but after seeing your video I'm thinking I may just do this myself.
I'm waiting on the edge of my seat for your replacement video. Thanks again!
Thanks for the bid but it is true that you left a few steps out. Had to removed two pullys, the alt. belt and the ps/ac belt. I also had to loosen the timing belt to get the old sensor out and the new one in but I was careful to retention the belt in the exact same notches it was in when I started and the car runs fine. The only problem I've encountered is a mysterious oil leak that I'm about to have track down. Makes no sense since I didn't have to undo anything oil related.
I thank you greatly for sharing this video and for being eloquent explicit enough so that I don't have to spend half an hour watching others videos to put 2 and 2 together. Thanks again. God bless.
Thanks for watching!
Your the greatest person. I'm so glad you posted this video there is nothing on the web that shows the sensor, even thought it's a rampant problem on those 2.4l's
Thank you so much, saved me $500 bucks and you were the only one who had exactly what I was looking for.
Excellent. Much appreciated. I wish I had something like this when I waded in over my head doing the belts on my daughter's Eclipse. Dern neer brok down cryn' like a baby! (but . . . I didn't) Got it done. Now looking at this job on my Sonata.
Thanks for the video! A picture/video is worth ten thousand words.
Thanks for the helpful video, cubmancan. I have 2.4L Hyundai Sonata that I'm replacing the CPS on, and your video got me off to a good start!
You was right. I did need that picture. Do those parts of that Lil thin piece of metal actually line up and go thru the slot? I wished u had of shown when u pull that plate back and remove the sensor. Which u prolly did in another video. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for that,,i did the timing while i was there and new sensor your video helped a lot,,,when i first removed the cover it was covered in a oily sludge so i cleaned it all off and nice and shiny,,fit all new parts and closed ut up,job done driving great,,,,but now i seem to have a small oil leak from behind the cover so im assuming it was always there hense me cleaning the old tick sludge,,,,im planning on going back in would you suggest anything,, cheers john 👍
Sounds like you are on the right track! Oil leaks can be a pain sometime. Thanks for watching!
Our Santa Fe started stalling about a month ago. But didn't throw a code changed out the Camshaft sensor and cleaned the throttle body which needed it and noticed the cable was loose. Started idling better but didn't fix the stalling made it infrequent.While under the hood I noticed the valve cover was leaking. Some knucklehead didn't torque the bolts down. Also noticed a hard shifting. So I changed out the input output sensors and the egr valve. EGR was stuck actually need to just be cleaned but got the valve for 18 bucks online. But still no fix other than better shifting and idling/running.
Finally throws the code to pin point the crank sensor. Belt was in good shape looks like it was changed before we bought it 3 years ago. Only have put on 13k on it since buying it. Had to splice the sensor in. I soldered and used heat shrink tube on each wire and one on all three. Moral of the story is the leaking valve cover ruined the crank sensor. Was coated in oil. The input sensor on the transmission was sitting in oil. Valve cover gasket kits for the 2.4l are around 12 bucks.
Excellent information video.
Just had to get mine done. Maybe next time I will do it myself. Why Hyundai did not make the sensor plug and play I have no idea.
Thanks again.
Steve, Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
By the way, I accidentally mounted the sensor backwards and the engine obviously would not start. Took me a little bit to figure this out. The magnetic pickup, mounted with the 2 screws, should face inwards. I think it picks up the rotation of the thin plate, behind the crankshaft gear. My Santa Fe is a 2003 with the 2.4L four cylinder engine. Good Luck!
@fdeldredge I don't really know if that would work okay or not. I'm guessing there may be a problem caused by the cutting and splicing. It might make the project much easier if it could be done without a problem. You likely need to ask an automotive electrical expert.
Your correct, two veins on crankshaft assembly coinsides with triggering the two ignition coils fireing two sparkplugs each, this is a unique opperation at bisected RPM intervals appearing to opperate at begining & end of either open or closed mag-switch functioning🤔
(supposedly anyway) Hey dance the nanushka with Gomez🎵🎵🎵🎵🎵!
Good Vid👍O
Thanks!
keeping them cams still were a pain untill i found a little trick use 2 17mm wrenches hold both cams at there timing mark with some muscle because you will be fighting against the spring tension, then just slide in between the teeth one of those 10mm timing cover bolts with the built in washer.. the washer will wedgie between the gears and hold them still.. worked just fine for me!
Thanks for the quick reply! I have an OBDII scanner and the Torque app on my phone. There are no codes being thrown, and I was unable to find anything out of the ordinary.
The symptoms you describe are pretty much exactly what I'm experiencing. I was starting to think the engine was either starving of fuel (Pump, Filter, Pressure Regulator), or air (clogged Cat. Conv.?) My S.F. has 130,000 miles. This problem only started after the valve cover gasket oil leak, which probably saturated the CPS.
Thanks for the vid. Ive got one in the shop today. Looks like im gonna be busy!!
It is a job! Thanks
im kinda in the same boat, my car starts up reall fast but the passenger side at the motor mount vibrates like hell when reved up. sounds like i dont have a muffler.. but when i take the bolt out the mount its quiet.. smh im just glad its running.. been on the front yard for 2 years out of commission...
Thank you for posting this very informational video. - While the job itself may take some time & patience,, it doesn't seem too difficult for someone who has some mechanical skills.
This may not be the best approach what I am suggesting, but I am thinking since the wire is already there, from the original CKP, then instead of removing the other components, to try to fit and route the wire along the recommended path, why not just cut the wires at the ckp and attach the two wires to the new CKP. Ofcourse it will mean cutting the wire from the new CKP as well. Provided that the original wire is ok,which I think can be checked with a multimeter. Labor can be saved.
Thanks a lot for your video, I was going nuts looking for that sensor, but now thanks to you I know where it is :D God bless you :D
thankyou for share. one question? can we cut that two wires (red/black) and put together with splite?
Thanks for video. why not leave the ps pump and splice the wires in?
FYI, this engine is also in the kia optima (or at least the timing belt is). Just to let you know to get you more hits.
this is a great video but i seem to be having more problems relating to this, did you change the angle sensor as well as the CPS? also make sure you replace that crank balance belt just behind that angle sensor or else its another $400 labour in the future getting there for that belt. i would also like to see the second segment you suggested.
Great video! Much help. Im about to attrmpt this job on my 08 magentis/optima.
You rock man having this problem right now
You should specify what year your Santa Fe is. Yours and mine are different in comparison.
Nice video. For me crankshaft position sensor lasts more than 500K. There is no such life time for CPK sensor replacement. Regards,
I have 2007 hyundai sonata 2.4 L. I am having a hard time located the camshaft position sensor on the engine. Do you happen to know where this one is located? I love your video .
Whats not mentioned is that timing belt removal is also required to remove this sensor and it's unnecessarily long harness, which in turn means re-timing the engine and its corresponding balance shaft(the sprocket on the right in this video) is absolutely necessary, and if re-timing is not done 100% properly, you can end up bending valves and/or the balance shafts out of phase which can make the engine sound "buzzy" or "raspy" when revved. And don't forget the smaller balance belt behind the re
Thanks the video was helpful keep up the good work will be doing my project soon on a Sonata 2.0L G4JP...
The car may cut off unexpectedly and crank back up, this may get more frequent until it just won't run at all. It may run rough, be hard to start, or not start up at all. Sometimes mimicks a fuel problem. This is very common for vehicles between 100Kand 160K miles. The things just go bad, could also be age- 10 years, estimated. Other problems may also cause similar symptoms. There is an electronics diagnosis for it- check with Autozone, etc for code info. Good luck, hope it helps.
Many thanks for this video, might have to tackle this job shortly should it be the problem!
i di this today and gave up. i could not remove the timing cover which was stuck on the left upper pulley. Managed to release sensor but its wire is litterally stuck.
Just trying to be helpful. Left some common stuff out for brevity, and did state that a person needs mechanical ability before taking on the task, I think. Common sense, you have to remove belts, etc. I think I changed the CPS without taking the timing belt off- but it was tight. Overall, I hope the video is helpful.
very good for biginer to learn DIY..thanks bro..
TYSVM for this video! Tons of helpful information! 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌😎😎😎
Welcome!
Your a good man brother ! thanks a million ! !
How did you know the sensor failed & needed replacement? What were the symptoms?
The reason I ask is because I suspect the CPS may have gone out on my '02 Santa Fe. The engine runs (barely), & the car moves under it's own power, but won't go above 20mph. If I mash the gas pedal, RPM's drop, engine stalls. There was an oil leak (failed valve cover gasket), which spilled oil all over this side of the engine. I'd like to be able to test the sensor before replacing & simply throwing parts at it.
Sorry I know it's been a while since your post,, cheers john
Thanks for watching!
hi. did you ever post the next step of this operation?
Thank you.. Is this the same as a 2004 kia optima.. Afto change my.. Crankshaft possition sensor
Where can you find the reassembly videos
Thank you for th great video man! Saved me hundreds!
Thanks for the video. Regards Chris
I have this engine in a 2004 sonata and not sure how to actually get to the sensor since the car's inside fender well is solid metal and you can't get to it unlike the video above with the santa fe. Do I have to drop the engine down to get to it and does that give enough room or is there another secret to it?
I haven't done one of those, Sorry! Good Luck!
Nice video. Very helpful
did you drop the engine because i noticed the red jack stand under it
Hey Cubmancan, Im doing this same job right now and have a question about the timing gear on the crankshaft. mine is one peace with the gear attached to the harmonic balancer but urs is not? confused.
May I please ask if an exhaust manifold for a 2003 hyundai accent GL would fit on a 2000 hyundai accent GL?
can i jus t cut sensor wires and feed it back thru behind power steering.instead of onbolting power steering.and spice wire back togeter thanks
thank you so much! it helpme a lot to know more about my car :)
This is really helpful...
Thanks...
Can just the wire go bad? I had my sensor replaced once already. I could replace the sensor again but the wire is frayed on the top end. Hyundai is giving me a hard time about fixing it. I have an 02 Sonata.
warm greetings from hyundai INDONESIA lovers. Hopefully a lot of benefits from our activities
Thanks for viewing!
please help, my 03 hyundai santa fe timing belt broke while i was driving about 15mph in a subdivision and I changed the timing belt by aligning the marks on all gears then the engine starts quickly and shaking a lot and i did took out the timing and put back again thinking i missed the gear and better this time but it is rough, one thing I couldn't figure out is where is the oil balance shaft plug on the left side of the block ?? couldn't find it please help me as soon as possible
good vid - good job explaining.
Thanks, this helped a lot.
Bravo! Thanks for this video!
Updated! I just did a 2005 2. 4 liter Hyundai Sonata YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT. First take the sensor off remove to 10 millimeter screws, fish the sensor up toward the timing belt pulley just behind the power steering pulley, pull the sheath back on the wire, Pull the sensor wires between the back of the timing belt and on top of the pulley, the pulley will roll and the sensor will come right out. Timing will not be changed at all because nothing was removed. Wallahhh do it yourself!
Will that work on a 2003 Hyundai sonata 2.4L also?
Dallas Henry Yes it will work on a 2003 with the 2.4L. You still have to strip the whole passenger side of the engine down and its a MF but you do not have to remove the belt.
Im sorry, but what exactly do i have to take apart? & what will i need besides the new crankshaft position sensor
Its way to detailed to type. Basically you have to take off everything on the passenger side that covers the belts. Once you got a totally clear view of the belts disconnect the crank sensor and fish it up and out. You will understand once you get to that point. There is not written instructions I found out by accident.
Is there a viseo anywhere
THANKS YOU GOT ME STARTED I RE ROUTED THE WIRE CHECK IT OUT.
What is that back wheel and what behind it I know is the oil pump
Hi can I just confirm with you please this is definitely crankshaft sensor and not camshaft sensor,,,I have same engine but it's a 2.0 litre petrol and I'm getting crankshaft position sensor faulty,,I looked around for another sensor and cannot find one,,,, cheers john
On this model, this is the sensor that is triggered by the crankshaft. That is the shaft that the lower pulley is on at the bottom front of the engine. Thanks
Timming belt replaced on my 2005 2.4 santa fe cost £659, inc parts. next day went for a run got about 4mls car cut out. called out AA auto .took about 35mins, mechanic connected to commputer came up with crankshaft sensor fault. tried to start but just turned over,said it could be dirt on sensor short on wire or faulty sensor. was about to trailer me home after checking for faults. turned key car started. Got home just as it cut out. next day at garage new sensor fitted. Cost £256. 14/9/03 UK
Thanks a lot for a great vid.
Thank you. I think I'll just cut them wires off the old one solder the new wires to him and go from there. That is of course if the old wires are good. I was starting to think they didn't have a damn crankshaft position sensor on it.
I know what you mean...Thanks!
Anyone know where I can download a Wiring Schematic for a 2004 Sonata ?
I have no power on ECM control relay pin 6.Since it doesn't have a fuse.
I do not want to bypass the power on pin 6.
can you please tell me if that big bolt in the middle is left handed or right handed to replace the plate its self... and is it possable to splice the wire to replace that damn sensor !
A little late but I used a breaker bar (wirh a 7/8" socket) on that crank bolt. Try to get close to 90° and even. Disconnect your two (I have a 2004 Optima 4cyl) ignition coil pack plugs and start the car for a half-second. Turn keys back and you should see your breaker still on the socket. Untigten by hand. Getting back on is trickier, may require two sets of hands.
thank you very helpful
Welcome!
what about Hyundai xg350 2004 crank sensor..v6
Do you know if there is a cam sensor for thr 2001 accent 4cyl. DOHC 1.6 L
I have a Hyundai sonata 2004 model ..the engine tumbles but the car isn't starting, I saw the timing belt bursted....can someone tell me if this is the problem? Would the car start once I replace the timing belt?
Make sure which belt broke: The timing belt will have "notches" on it and is under a cover on front of the engine (which is the side away from the transmission.) If the timing belt is broken the engine will not run at all. This timing belt allows the valves to open and close at the correct time (valves which allow intake and exhaust will not move without this belt). Unfortunately, if the engine rotated at all when the belt broke, it likely bent some valves in the head, as some probably hit the pistons. If that is the case, you will have damage to the heads, and maybe some parts in the "engine block." I have heard of an engine that ran with two valves bent after a broken belt was replaced, but it is EXTREMELY unlikely, and would have little power, and run VERY rough. Sorry for the potentially bad news, Hopefully you can have it looked at by an honest and educated mechanic.
i have Hyundai Santa Fe 2002 it cracked but it not start
Would there be any issue with cutting and splicing the wire thus saving two hours of work? Ref: (3:00)
My mechanic tried to replace the sensor and the plate that runs on the shaft. When he started the engine, it destroyed the plate. They tried a second one and it did the same thing. Is there something that would go out of position on the crankshaft that would just show up. They told me that the bearing are worn out and allow the shaft to shift about 1/8 inch. Does this happen?
+Brian Geffre The plate is held in place by a key in the Crankshaft.I had a Balance shaft belt (the small one) that broke the key.He may also have put the Crank Sensor on upside down.THE RED WIRE GOES UP and the blade of the plate passes between a fixed and electrically excited magnet.(This is called a Halls effect switch.Every time the field is interrupted it tells the computer to fire plugs and Injectors when to spray fuel.
Looks like when you remove that thing, the timing belt is in way of the wire and plug. Were you able to remove it without loosening the belt? Personally, I would cut the wires and connect the new unit using crimps.
+whothecapfits I would mos def do the same but I would solder then use heat shrink tube :)
I would have just spliced the wire ..cut it and check for continuity up to the plug at the top of engine ..splice and seal it up
i hope someone can help me out, so i replace this crankshaft position sensor (on a 2.4) along with all the belt. but now when i try to start her up she cranks but wont turned over, can anyone help me out here?
This video here walks you through all the steps I just added a twist. If you are not sure how to strip down an engine without instructions I am not sure if you should be tackling this. I have been doing this for 20 years and i still cursed profusely at what the engineers were thinking with this car.
i watched one of your video when i was on the spot; unfortunately, you had already stripped everything. In my trial and error, i was trying to remove the serpentine and alternator pulley at the bottom but guess what? All came off in 1 peace leaving my timing belt naked. All this to remove the bottom timing cover which is still stuck in there. I still managed to release the sensor but its wire is stuck by something. I actually gave up calling Hyundai all kinda names to make this so complicated.
lmfao! Hyundai is crazy!
Now I am scared to drive this car before I sell it
With the autozone unit it lasted exactly 1 year and then failed. The customer also had a valve cover that was leaking very bad which i am sure contributed to the early failure. If you got a quality sensor you shouldn't have the same issue.
Thank you!!
Welcome!
what were the symptoms of your car before you changed it
Alex Mendez : My FIRST EXPERIENCE W/ Bad One,Was A VERY ERATIC TACH.FIRST COUPLE OF TIMES,BUT TACH WOULD GO BACK TO NORMAL, BUT NOT BEFORE LOSS OF POWER,WHILE IT WAS JUMPING AROUND. WOULD HAPPEN AGAIN A FEW DAYS LATER UNTILL IT FINALLY JUST WOULD NOT STOP THR ERATIC JUMPING BACK & FORTH & JUST SHUT ENGINE COMPLETELY OFF.& WOULD NOT RECRANK,ONLY TO HAVE TO BE TOWED IN THINKING T.BELT HAD JUMPED TIMING OR BROKE.STORY IS THAT DEALER CSP SENSORS WILL GIVE U THESE WARNINGS A FEW TIMES,BEFORE GOING COMPLETELY SOUTH,WHERAS AN AFTERMARKET ONE WILL GO BAD AFTER ONLY ONCE OR TWICE ACTING ERATICALLLY,LIKE MY OREILLY' S SENSOR DID.THE END THAT DOESNT HAVE THE RUBBER CONDUIT TENDS TO GET CRIMPED SOME WHERE BETWEEN THE FEED FROM TOP OF ENG.THRU THE T.BELT ASSEMBLY OR THE 3 ONE GUAGE WIRES GET PINCHED FROM A BAD VIBRATION IN ENG.PISS POOR DESIGN ON MFGS.PART.MY MECH.PUT A RUBBER CONDUIT ON THE 3 ,ONE GUAGE WIRES LAST TIME OREILLYS REPL.THEIR HOUSE BRAND FROM WARRANTY & IT HASN' T GONE BAD YET ,AFTER 80,000 MLS.ITS ADVISABLE FROM DEALER TO REPL.IT @ EVERY T.BELT CHANGE & USE A DEALER CSP.SENSOR,SO U WILL AT LEAST GET THE SEVERAL ERATIC WARNINGS FROM THE TACH NEEDLE ,BEFORE IT GOES SOUTH. SO MANY THINGS ON THE 2.4 ENG.TO REPL. EACH T.BELT CHANGE,THAT USUALLY ONLY A DEALER MECH.KNOWS,LIKE THE SETTING OF THE PENDELUM ," GRAVITY" DIAL THAT HAD 3 DIFF.SETTINGS & IF U DON' T GET IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME & DONT KNOW HOW TO PULL THE EXH.MANIFOLD LOOSE SO U CAN STICK A STUD PIN INTO THE HOLE, & IF IT DOESNT GO ALL WAY IN ,UR TIMING CAN STILL BE OFF.
let me know if it works,
AWSOME!!
Thanks, same thing with my Sedona
no way. I'd cut the wire solder and weather strip seal it lol
I notice you didn't take out the sensor ??? How are Rookies like me going to know how to take it out ???? Also do you have remove the the belt ??? To get the sensor out ???
This is the second time I've replaced the sensor and I did remove the timing belt both times. I was not able to use 1trucavalier's method, as I could not work the wire sheath between the pulley and the belt. You have to have the sensor over the top of the pulley, to have sufficient space to pull the magnetic portion of the sensor through. It does not fit through, underneath the pulley.
+mden98 I just tried to do 1trucavaliers method. The belt is to tight to do it. If you notice the timing belt in his video is loose. I suspect the timing belt tensioner is removed. I went with plan b splice the wires.
Did you cut and splice the wires closer to the top of the engine on the new sensor?
Yes I did. Right on top of the valve cover. Here is a update of my problem. The sensor worked great after splicing it in. However I had other problems that I took care off as I went through the engine. What I thought was oil leakage from a loose valve cover. Which it was but also from the seals on the camshaft and crankshaft were also bad. Someone had replaced the timing belt but not the balancing belt. So a month ago that belt snapped on the freeway and took out the new crankshaft sensor. I ended up sending it to a shop for a new timing belt new seals, sensor and tensioner. Which didn't cost much Was quoted 550 for the belt seals and sensor. After every thing was said and done needed a new tensioner too. with tax around 700.
damn, 700 isn't to bad though for all that work.
but im about to just splice mine like you did
Did you have to take front pully pff
Why people just dont solder there another one 😅 why to spend hour there to remove avrything
Good Comment - If you did solder yours, let us know how it worked out. Thanks!
@@cubmancan it ia same job to rich it so 10min extra to remove belt is not worth to solder new one it ia same good to change it with removing belt. I mede one video to 😅
why not splice
The dealership wanted $600 to replace all of my belts on my 04 santa fe. i said bye bye
Good on your matethat was a big help and exactly the same pictures in my mind I was looking for to get mine done too... I’ve got well enough basic know how but didn‘t quite know exactly where it was and that wiring your right about that what a fucking pain in the ass
Thanks for watching!
or else u could have just cut an slice the wire in a easy to reach area no?
Yes it can be done.
Freaking Hyundai is insane for a simple sensor...#@+&$+$+*
More and more municipalities are no longer legally bound to administer anything nor legally bound not to increase public debt. 90% of all public projects in the USA are dependant on a loan and are required to insure that loan (which is why AIC had so much business). If your town/county/state has a poor credit rating, you will have no public programs. Instead of letting local municipalities suffer, the US government stepped in (1937) to "fix" the problem. Does it take another great depression to show people how that doesn't work?
❤❤
Thanks!
ebay is $15.oo
Lucio Alvarez : one I ordered thru on line @ EL CHEAPO PRICE was NO GOOD& NO WAY TO CHECK IT TILL U INSTALL IT,ONLY TO FIND ITS BAD AFTER 2-3.5 HRS OF INSTALLING IT
i had CODE PO340 Crank Angle Position Sensor (Fault )
1/ i would cut the wires & either fish thru the new connection from other side of motor where it connects into OR
2/ cut wires ample above old & new sensor & use 2 BLUE female & male crimp terminals either into existing old wire connector or new wire if could fish it thru
then all done