This Is by FAR, the best video explaing how this could and can be done without spending an arm n Let on this fix. You explained it clearly and took your Time. Excellent video brother. God bless you and yours
This is nothing short of a Godsend for those who have ability but low on cash. The way your video was presented was very accurate, easy to understand and your method of "showing" how it's being done is much more than that. You provide tips along the to save money, innovative and inexpensive (and genius) homemade (and effective) tools to achieve the same results as renting a spring compressor. I"ve been a mechanic for decades and I've never heard of pouring water into a port to see how the valves are seating. What great idea! I searched for "blown timing belt on Hyundai accent" and yours was the 4th or 5th one I saw and by far the best. My assistant's car quit running and I just now discovered the timing belt is off. I just pulled the cover back 1/2" and looked down in there. Not sure if any valves are bent or not or holes in the pistons. It was cranked many times in attempts to get it started thinking it may have been a fuel pump/electrical problem or fuel related issue. She was driving 70mph on the freeway when it happened . Since all Hyundai engines are non clearance motors I'm fearing the worst. A fellow mechanic asked (after I told him it was at timing belt gone at that speed). "what's the car worth?". Good question. Thanks again..oh, in closing a couple of suggestions: On close ups make sure it's in focus. The content/angle/lighting/proximity is perfect...but it's out of focus. Try to keep the content framed. I wanted to see how much compound you were putting on but the content was outside the frame. Other than that, it was awesome...your're a natural educator.
Hey I know its a little late but I just had my timing belt on my Hyundai accent snap when I was going 65 I ain't got a lot of money so I'm doing it myself but I've been told to just forget it and that the car is worthless so I wanted to know if it really was that hard and if you had any tips
What strikes me as wonderful with your video is the ingenuity to see the problem, solve the problem and explain how and why the solution is derived. Forget the critiques about camera and focus! This had mean leaning and looking over your shoulder cheering the advances on your solutions. That's for what working on my car is about. Figuring, learning, enjoying and experiencing! Yay, I'll subscribe to see more.
Thanks for the detailed video. Purchased a used engine that had issue with excessive blue smoke for $80. Disassembled the engine and found #2 exhaust valve burnt and missing a piece. Bought a re-ring kit and valve, refreshed the entire engine. After 4,500 miles, the engine is running extremely well and recently passed the SoCal emission test.
WOW that's one great job better than great u just saved me a ton of money thats the fastest and easiest way I've ever seen a valve job done u r well let me say u made it look so easy ive never done a valve job R & R heads plenty but ive been putting this off for 5 months but tomorrow im jumping right on it and changing the motor mounts ive put off for a yr. MOTIVATION is wat ugave me Thank u so much ill follow u thumbs up every day u deserve it.
I always look for ways to help poor folks keep their cars and avoid the banker. This video will help me with GM 2.4s since these are the only engines left. Not many 3.8s anymore. The savings you taught me will be passed onto my budget strapped customers. Also I think after seeing this I'll visit the boneyard and practice on a cylinder head. Excellent video.
Excellent video. I'm doing my first head gasket replacement never been this deep into an engine before so I will be taking extra steps to inspect while apart. Hopefully I don't have to address valves but if so, this should helpe. Thank you.
You can flip the head on its side and pour fluid into the exhaust and intake ports to see if the valves are leaking. If it's a overhead camshaft, make sure the valves you are checking are closed all the way (by turning the cam) most importantly, make sure the surface side is within the warpage limit. If it blew the head gasket from overheating, it will need to be surfaced. I hope this helps and good luck. I'm sure you will do fine. Keep in mind, its just nuts and bolts.
To avoid the C clamp, put a rag on the bench and the head at the valve on the rag so that the rag holds the valve closed. Then you might be able to push the PVC pipe with one hand and get the keepers in with the other, or you can compress the springs with both thumbs while a friend puts the keepers in. Or you can position the keepers in advance and compress the spring with a socket or both thumbs and maybe gravity alone will cause the keepers to drop into position.
since its an interference engine, which is why the valves got bent from hitting the tops of the piston, sometimes the piston will be cracked or worse, like a bent rod or the rod bearing is smashed, and you wont know it till you fire the engine up, I learned that the hard way when I used to repair fiat spyders, which were twin cam engines, Alfa,s had a chain but other issues,like the head studs pulling out of the all aluminum engine, and the steel cylinder liners would leak plus they had plugs pressed into the crank journals, to block the cross drilled oil passages, good video, there is another tool out there that you use to remove the keepers like the one you made to remove em the same tool can be used to install them, plus if you have carbon build up on the back of the valve, you should install new oil seals, ,no body likes to do it twice, because you will need to replace the head gasket again, and other related gaskets, but I will tell you this NEVER re use a head gasket, unless its a solid copper one, they arent cheap either.
Great vid! Someone out there makes a nifty little tool for spring/keeper install. You hit it with a hammer to remove and a magnet on the inside holds onto the keepers, and another end piece holds them in place while you hammer again to set them. I need to find one.
That’s exactly what I needed to see … I seen one of my springs broke …. I seen one of the keepers first …. I wasn’t sure what it was …. Now I know from your video …. I guessing that valve is in the cylinder now …. I’m hoping nothing got to damaged … the truck shut off itself …. I know I’m going to have to take the head off now for sure …. Thanks For This Video
Great video I did this to my Toyota Corolla but I found an easier methed to receipt the valve keepers and valve spring. I used a 11 mill long socket and a rubber mallet . I pressed down and hit with mallet worked like a charm.
Good video, I would have mentioned checking valve seats for cracks or excessive pitting. Lapping will only help so much. Would also recommend replacing valve stem seals, very inexpensive, which is major cause of oil burning.
Thanks, EricTheCarGuy had a nice tool to hammer the springs and retainiers. It has a magnet that cathches the retainers. Check that video out too. Now I need how to do the seals.
They do make a Leslie tool that will work on sunken valves as well as not it has a little magnet in it it'll catch the keepers when removing it very fast compared to the old school spring compressors
Use a C clamp style valve spring compressor. You can even get air actuated ones. Not terribly expensive. Substantially easier. You should also mention that you need to check valve guide clearance. If its loose your wasting your time. Burn oil like crazy and valve will never seat properly. Also mention that you need enough margin at the base of the valve or it may tulip the valve. If the valve is bent or severely pitted on the land you can lap it till the cows come home it will never seat. Check exhaust valves thoroughly for pitting at stem nearest the valve base for thinning and pitting as it creates a weak or breaking point. Exhaust valve guide clearance will always be greater due to the heat of the the exhaust stroke and exhaust valve being open. Also check that the seats are not sunk to deep or they will need replacement. Also more likely to be on the exhaust valve seat due to heat.
So the valve keeper came off(long story short timing and valves were off), and the valve got bent, 3rd cylinder intake side. ONCE the head came off we see small broken metal pieces in the fourth cylinder, which caught a few rounds of combustion covering the head of the frth cyl in small metal fragments and the piston aswell sustained a few gouges.. 1 notably close to the cylinder wall.. along with the 3rd cyl piston getting a nice chunk from the valve(presumably what got into the 4rth cyl) from a a stock b18b not sure where to proceed, would like to save this engine without having to fully rebuild/bore if possible
When you get the valve lapped correctly all it takes is a very small amount of pressure.. So small that holding it in with the pressure of your thumb or finger it won't leak when you pore a small amount of gasoline in the chamber.. If it leaks you need to do some more grinding on that valve.. I use lee use a drill bit extension on the hard to reach valves.. Works much better than a pice of hose that can slip off.. Hope this helps anyone else out and or the one that shot this video.. A drill works much better and faster than the old hand tool.. Once you get the hang of it you can do most heads in 30 mins with a drill, where you'll be at each valve 30/45 mins with the old hand tool..
The difference between a DOHC, SOHC, (DUAL & SINGLE OVER HEAD CAM) motors and the over head valve motor is push rods and rocker arms. The valve job itself is the same. It's just the disassembly and reassembly that's a little different. The next one I do, I will definitely make a video. I think I will also video the head removal as well. I made a video of a VW convertible Rear window regulator repair. It was a video of just repairing the regulator itself. After I posted it, I had several requests for a video of the removal and install. Anyway, thank you for watching and the request. The next one I get in, I'll video it.
Hi Rex, thanks for the reply. I'm a little confused. Are you saying that doing a valve job with hydrolic lifters is the same? I would just like to see the disassembly/reassembly of one that uses hydrolic lifters. Thanks!
Once it has been taken apart down to the valve, spring, retainer, and keepers, the lifters are out of the equation. You would grind the valves the same either way. Over head cam or over head valves. If you were doing a valve job (using a valve grinding machine) on a head with pucks or tappets that were not hydraulic, you would have to measure the installed height of the valves. A valve grinding machine takes a lot off the valve face and valve seat causing an increase in the installed height. Then you would have to grind the right amount off the valve stem to compensate. Otherwise, your valve would get hung open, resulting in a loss of compression. Some lifters ( pucks, tappets) that are not hydraulic, only have a couple of thousandth of an inch leeway. Hydraulic lifters have about 50 thousandth leeway. The good thing about lapping the valve with grinding compound is, you would have to grind one valve for hours to affect the installed height. It would be hard to grind to much if you tried. I hope I answered your question somewhere in this reply. Sorry for rambling on.
Great video have one question I'm working on 2.4 L and doing a head gasket I've removed all bolts but I can not get the head to pop off am I miss something .out of a 2010 vibe
@@You-Tube...005 thanks a bunch I didn't see one head bolt was hidden under a race.so now how do I determine if head gasket bad or cracked block there was water in the oil.
Great video ...I have to do this to my Ram 5.7 .....popping the valve out and putting in the keepers without expensive tools exactly what I was searching for ! Thanks !
Great videos!! I'm doing a valve job on an Outback Mitsubishi.. Anyway I feel like you have showed me a few things that will speed up the process. Leak check was nice! And blocks of wood to protect the valves when compressing help me lots! Thank you!
@DJ29Joesph only if you overheated and had a blown head gasket. I always use a straight edge and feeler gauges to make sure the surface side is within the warpage limits. All engines are a little different, but usually a few thousandths of an inch. I have a how-to video about checking the surface with a straight edge. Hope this helps Thanks for watching
How did you get your timing done after? Since you took the cams out, no marks. I'm asking because I'm doing my first timing chain change and being so ignorant, I rotated the cam sprockets individually because I had no clue what i was doing. Now I have to start the timing from scratch and I don't even know if I did any damage to the valves. Then a friend with more knowledge came over and I told him I turned the cam but didn't know if it was 180 or whatever. Then he turned it back with a wrench and said they couldn't be damaged. Now i'm stuck and don't know what to do. I put the chain on but when we were putting it on, we had to pull the exhaust cam clockwise way down to put the mark on the triangle and then at 5' oclock at the crankshaft sprocket in the 12 o'clock position. We forced it so much that when we were done and did enough revolutions for it to come around again, the chain was behind one tooth on all 3 marks. It's like there is not enough chain between the exhaust sprocket triangle and the camshaft dot at the 5 o'clock position for TDC, It slips out of 12 oclock position. I doubt anyone understands what i'm talking about but I'm trying to explain anyways. I need someone like you to come and fix it LOL. Thanks for any help.
NICE VIDEO, Thank You.... All 16 of my valves bent due to tension pulley broke in my timing housing, So I'm replacing all the valves, So with that said, Do you still have to use the compound with the new valves?
Yes you need to lap the new valves to the valve seats to make a good seal, they cannot just simply be installed - lap away! And fluid testing to check for leaking valves is better with kerosene or gasoline or brake cleaner because the surface tension of these liquids are much less than water and they will be much more precise at showing a leaking valve whereas water may not flow as readily. Even lighter fluid would be good.
I have a 09 chev volebolt My coil and plug and injection is good. Checked it out geting ready to do a. Compression check on the number 2 cyleinder. The car has a bad miss I can unplug the. Coil and the engine stays the same no change in the engine sound could it be a bad valve leaking Some one comment me to help. I can’t afford a garage but I am willing to to the job on my own I think I can It would be a good chalange for me. Thanks
Thank you, I've been wondering for a while how to do this. I assume it's necessary to do this when installing brand new valves, too, right? Since they still have to mate up with a used hole? lol
I have a GM Holden Astra, the timing belt snapped.. they replaced the timing belt but car still wont start, they said it could possibly be a bent valve.. is it possible to check this myself without pulling out the whole motor and what equipment do i use? they said it would cost me a lot of money to get it done. I was under the impression if the motor is a non interference motor, there shouldnt be damage to the valves.
I agree with James even if the engine is a non interference engine it could still have valve to valve interference. But an easy way to check that would to do a compression test if the valves are not closing correctly it will show no compression in whatever cylinder you are testing. But honestly they could have the timing 180 out because for not to run at all would mean that every single valve would have to have damage. Usually what I will do is take the spark plug out and look inside of the cylinder and see if I can see any damage with an inspection camera if I see any metal inside of there then I know there's got to be some kind of catastrophic failure that had to happened
If the valve was leaking water, it seems to me the vale is either bent or in in need of being made round again. Replace the vale before seating, or use a valve grinder on the old one to make it true again, then seat the valve.
How about bent valves try to straigthen or replace? 1995 honda odyssey broke timing belt hwy with 295,241 miles.will be putting all tdc then leak down if no go will remove head if go will install new . May replace intake and exhaust valves plus all related gaskets felpro numero uno
Buy the otc valve tool it’s only 50 bucks and the attachments lock on which makes it easy. I’ve done hundreds of valves this is by far bet tool. Also easiest way to remove the locks is with a socket and a hammer.
I have a 2.2 ecotec I'm working on. It is a no start engine. It has spark, good fuel pressure but the compression is off... Cylinders 1-3 have at least 220 but the 4th has about 150-160 can't remember exactly because it's been a minute since I checked but close. Anyway I removed the valve cover a while ago to take a look at the top of the chain. It looked tight. So I left it alone. Was unable to do a leak down test. Anyway I ended up taking the timing cover off yesterday ( I had reassembled everything else 2 weeks ago so I only removed the timing cover) Anyway I'll be removing the valve cover again tomorrow because I ran out of daylight removing the timing cover. My issue is I think it may be bent valves in cylinder 4 or it jumped timing because the chain is tight and does look great. If it has jumped timing how do I align the cams correctly... If you don't know can you direct me to someone who does... Thanks....
If the chain jumped you will need to figure out why it jumped see if it's a failed tensioner or in my case a broken chain guide. But there alot of detailed videos showing how to replace or adjust the timing chain. Set the crankshaft at 12 o'clock use a screwdriver or something long to make sure piston 1 is all the way up set exhaust cam at 10 o'clock and inv at 2 oclock. Trouble is if chain jumped or broke while driving then you probably bent the valves and will have to use this video like I am. Hope this helps good lick
My buddy has a suction cup old school lapper. lol cant wait to show him this. freakin Genius. hey how you hold the valve in there ? are you pulling pressure with the drill ?
TT M I use a piece of vacuum hose that fits snug on the valve stem. I pull lightly and let off every couple seconds to spread the compound. I also reach(Do the reach around) around the cylinder head and hold the back side of the valve when it's spinning. you can feel and hear the valve cutting into the valve seat. once you start doing it, you will get the feel of it and you will understand exactly what im talking about. hope this helps, thanks for the reply
A very good tool is that old school cup lapper. Why? Because it can exert relatively square force on the valve that no vacuum hose ever could. Best thing I have found is: use drill & hose to turn valve, use cup lapper with lube on the end to push the valve. You can even do this one-man style. Drill in one hand, lapper in the other. Full control of your pressure, rotation direction, and speed. Position your setup so you can see the valve seat side. and as you push-pull the setup, you can see the valve face and seat and compound. The ole In-Out yeah? A bit of the Ultra Violence. Stay gold.
Sorry if this a redundant question but when I order a new valves to replace an existing bent valve. The new valve still needs to be lapped with the cylinder head?
Great video. I like how you explain your process. Pretty innovative on your pcv pipe gadget. This is really helpful when the time comes to do one of these jobs. Mahalo !
I have a question. I was driving my car and pull over to the gas station and once I put gas on it the car didn't turn over but only crank n I tow it home and check n the chain tensioner was bad so the cam shaft jump a tooth or two. I replaced the tensioner n I'm on the process of putting everything together but my question is, do you think there is a bend valves? The timing belt didn't broke but the tensioner in bank one was a lil loose and didn't align at TDC. One or two links on the chain were jump by the sprocket.
Angel Contreras Only a tooth or two shouldn't have been enough to contact the valves. Once the chain is back together, you could do a compression test. Hope this helps. Thanks
get saved wipe the compound off the valve and valve seat. look at the valve and valve seat real close at different angles, you can see where the compound has cut. sometimes ill use a flashlight to inspect. once I have seen that the valve has been hitting all the way around, ill go to the next one. be sure not to mix the valves up. If the valve is bent, replace it with a new one. You will need to lap the new valves. And I always fluid check them when I done. Hope this helps, Thank you for the comment
@@You-Tube...005 you want to see a nice clean grey continuous circle in your seat and on your valve with out any imperfections. fluid test but remember when the engine is warmed and everything as expanded to its tolerances you will get an 100% seal. great video mate!
I just did this to an Acura TL with two bent exhuast valves....I really wish I used the water method to check the other valves rather than just lapping the two that needed replacing...ugh
@@allenhetrick7694 I have my MENSA card... how about you? I've also got a bit of experience rebuilding gas and diesel engines and heads in an automotive machine shop. How about you?
@@allenhetrick7694 you are a troll go home shut your lying mouth . You do not know shit from apple butter . You do not know anything about being a real mechanic.
Thanks for the upload, very well done video. (Although I look forward to when you get a camera that can better focus on close ups, still great work!) And how on earth did you get that channel name??? Pretty cool. Subbed!
How do you know if a valve needs to be replaced? If the valve leaks water after a timing belt fail, but it doesn't visibly look bent, can you still lap it in? At what point do you replace a valve? Thanks!!
Backyard Foodie If the valve is gushing during the fluid check, remove the valve and put the valve stem end first, in a drill and spin it. If it's bent, you will see it wobble. Sometimes they will slightly contact a piston. It all depends on the position of the camshaft lobes when the timimg belt fails. Hope the helps!
john joseph I used assembly oil for years when working in the machine shop. I have found it doesn't last. Parts that were assembled with assembly oil were dry after a couple of weeks sitting on a shelf. It really doesn't matter as long as it's not dry. The point of this video, is to show that anyone can do a basic valve job at home without special tools. In my opinion, the keeper tool is unnecessary and a waste of money. Hope you enjoyed and thank you for commenting.
My timing belt snapped on me, I was going uphill about 25 mph. The car just stopped dead, it didn't move till it was on the tow truck. Do you think I have engine damage? And about how much would it cost to repair the engine? 2005 Mitsubishi Outlander. 155,000 miles
It all depends on the position of the camshaft lobes when the timing belt broke. Problem is, you won't know until you get into it. Again, the cost all depends on how much damage. To get an idea, you can inject air in the cylinders. When the intake and exhaust valves are closed, it should not leak air. If it is leaking, take the air box hose off and check to see if air is escaping from the intake. If it is, its coming from the intake valve. If it is leaking from the exhaust valve, you can sometimes hear or feel it coming from the tailpipe. If the valves are holding air, and it is still leaking, remove the oil dipstick or the oil fill cap and check for escaping air. If its leaking from either of those, its going to be the piston or piston rings. If you do it this way, the valves will need to be in the closed position. You do not want to spin the cams not knowing the position of the piston. You can do more damage. You can remove the cams or the rockers before you begin. If this is to much, you can always get an inspection camera. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching!
You forgot a couple of things.. like replacing the valve guide seal's and polishing the valve stems. If you take the time to do this job for God sakes man do it right. The seals are the least expensive part of the job. What about the valve guide's them selves? If the valve is bent your gonna have to fix the guide I promise you that. Well my question is how long did it run after the premium valve job?
I definitely understand where you are coming from and if it were your car I was working on, I would absolutely sell you valve stem seals, water pump, serpentine belt, new hoses, and probably the oil pan gasket. The last time I seen a Hyundai with bad valve stem seals is never. The head gasket will probably blow from deterioration before the valve stem seals start leaking oil into the cylinders. If it were a Mopar from the early 2000's then definitely change them.
I replaced a head gasket on a 1992 2.2 chevy cavalier When I removed the rockers the nuts were as tight as they would go. when I put them back together I tighten them back tight. Is there a small backout for the lash?
That's exactly how I did mine too. A drill and a piece of hose. It's safer that way to avoid putting side pressure on the valve guide when hooking your drill straight to the valve.
![Save Money And Lap Your Own Valves! [Measured Results]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TPCrR-R7cTY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This Is by FAR, the best video explaing how this could and can be done without spending an arm n Let on this fix. You explained it clearly and took your Time. Excellent video brother. God bless you and yours
@bakermark6891 You just made my day! Thank you for the comment, and thank you for watching!
This is nothing short of a Godsend for those who have ability but low on cash.
The way your video was presented was very accurate, easy to understand and your method of "showing" how it's being done is much more than that.
You provide tips along the to save money, innovative and inexpensive (and genius) homemade (and effective) tools to achieve the same results as renting a spring compressor.
I"ve been a mechanic for decades and I've never heard of pouring water into a port to see how the valves are seating. What great idea!
I searched for "blown timing belt on Hyundai accent" and yours was the 4th or 5th one I saw and by far the best. My assistant's car quit running and I just now discovered the timing belt is off. I just pulled the cover back 1/2" and looked down in there.
Not sure if any valves are bent or not or holes in the pistons. It was cranked many times in attempts to get it started thinking it may have been a fuel pump/electrical problem or fuel related issue.
She was driving 70mph on the freeway when it happened . Since all Hyundai engines are non clearance motors I'm fearing the worst.
A fellow mechanic asked (after I told him it was at timing belt gone at that speed). "what's the car worth?".
Good question.
Thanks again..oh, in closing a couple of suggestions: On close ups make sure it's in focus. The content/angle/lighting/proximity is perfect...but it's out of focus.
Try to keep the content framed. I wanted to see how much compound you were putting on but the content was outside the frame.
Other than that, it was awesome...your're a natural educator.
Thank you for the comment and for watching!
Hey I know its a little late but I just had my timing belt on my Hyundai accent snap when I was going 65 I ain't got a lot of money so I'm doing it myself but I've been told to just forget it and that the car is worthless so I wanted to know if it really was that hard and if you had any tips
What strikes me as wonderful with your video is the ingenuity to see the problem, solve the problem and explain how and why the solution is derived. Forget the critiques about camera and focus! This had mean leaning and looking over your shoulder cheering the advances on your solutions. That's for what working on my car is about. Figuring, learning, enjoying and experiencing! Yay, I'll subscribe to see more.
Thank you for the comment. It really is encouraging to make and share videos after reading this. Again, thank you
Kelly Burch p b
Shhhh
Color the valve seats with a sharpie and once you cut the Sharpie off you know you have a good seat
Thanks for the detailed video. Purchased a used engine that had issue with excessive blue smoke for $80. Disassembled the engine and found #2 exhaust valve burnt and missing a piece. Bought a re-ring kit and valve, refreshed the entire engine. After 4,500 miles, the engine is running extremely well and recently passed the SoCal emission test.
This was absolutely one of the better videos I’ve ever seen. Thank you for sharing.
WOW that's one great job better than great u just saved me a ton of money thats the fastest and easiest way I've ever seen a valve job done u r well let me say u made it look so easy ive never done a valve job R & R heads plenty but ive been putting this off for 5 months but tomorrow im jumping right on it and changing the motor mounts ive put off for a yr. MOTIVATION is wat ugave me Thank u so much ill follow u thumbs up every day u deserve it.
I used to do all this many year ago and it's great to actually see someone do it the way it is supposed to be done. BRAVO
cripnipp
Thank you!
I always look for ways to help poor folks keep their cars and avoid the banker. This video will help me with GM 2.4s since these are the only engines left. Not many 3.8s anymore. The savings you taught me will be passed onto my budget strapped customers. Also I think after seeing this I'll visit the boneyard and practice on a cylinder head. Excellent video.
Great work my man DIY all day forget the machine shop, Save money. Just subbed keep the videos coming.
Thank you for watching and for the comment, God bless!
Ohhh snap!! Oldschool funk is in the house!! 😎😎😎😎
I’ve seen MANY of your vids, thank you aswell
Excellent video. I'm doing my first head gasket replacement never been this deep into an engine before so I will be taking extra steps to inspect while apart. Hopefully I don't have to address valves but if so, this should helpe. Thank you.
You can flip the head on its side and pour fluid into the exhaust and intake ports to see if the valves are leaking. If it's a overhead camshaft, make sure the valves you are checking are closed all the way (by turning the cam) most importantly, make sure the surface side is within the warpage limit. If it blew the head gasket from overheating, it will need to be surfaced. I hope this helps and good luck. I'm sure you will do fine. Keep in mind, its just nuts and bolts.
Thank you. This is the best video I've seen on this subject!
love this! Very doable. Power to the people. Thanks for taking the time to make the vid!
You seem to do a great job at explaining the process. I wish you had a dedicated camera-man! Thank you!
To avoid the C clamp, put a rag on the bench and the head at the valve on the rag so that the rag holds the valve closed. Then you might be able to push the PVC pipe with one hand and get the keepers in with the other, or you can compress the springs with both thumbs while a friend puts the keepers in. Or you can position the keepers in advance and compress the spring with a socket or both thumbs and maybe gravity alone will cause the keepers to drop into position.
since its an interference engine, which is why the valves got bent from hitting the tops of the piston, sometimes the piston will be cracked or worse, like a bent rod or the rod bearing is smashed, and you wont know it till you fire the engine up, I learned that the hard way when I used to repair fiat spyders, which were twin cam engines, Alfa,s had a chain but other issues,like the head studs pulling out of the all aluminum engine, and the steel cylinder liners would leak plus they had plugs pressed into the crank journals, to block the cross drilled oil passages, good video, there is another tool out there that you use to remove the keepers like the one you made to remove em the same tool can be used to install them, plus if you have carbon build up on the back of the valve, you should install new oil seals, ,no body likes to do it twice, because you will need to replace the head gasket again, and other related gaskets, but I will tell you this NEVER re use a head gasket, unless its a solid copper one, they arent cheap either.
a real pro who knows what he doing thank you
Mindblown🤯 I've been avoiding the inside of engine for nothing
Easier with the right tools. This here is hard because of the lack of tools but there are tools that make this job easier.
Great vid! Someone out there makes a nifty little tool for spring/keeper install. You hit it with a hammer to remove and a magnet on the inside holds onto the keepers, and another end piece holds them in place while you hammer again to set them. I need to find one.
That’s exactly what I needed to see … I seen one of my springs broke …. I seen one of the keepers first …. I wasn’t sure what it was …. Now I know from your video …. I guessing that valve is in the cylinder now …. I’m hoping nothing got to damaged … the truck shut off itself …. I know I’m going to have to take the head off now for sure …. Thanks For This Video
Great video I did this to my Toyota Corolla but I found an easier methed to receipt the valve keepers and valve spring. I used a 11 mill long socket and a rubber mallet . I pressed down and hit with mallet worked like a charm.
Good video, I would have mentioned checking valve seats for cracks or excessive pitting. Lapping will only help so much. Would also recommend replacing valve stem seals, very inexpensive, which is major cause of oil burning.
Excellent video, I'll keep it under my archives, thanks!
Thank you for watching. I appreciate the support.
I could watch this video all day!
Thank you for watching!
I have a question what size c clamp and is the clamp holding the valve on the other side, can’t quite see
Thanks, EricTheCarGuy had a nice tool to hammer the springs and retainiers. It has a magnet that cathches the retainers. Check that video out too. Now I need how to do the seals.
Youll still get the best results with hand lapping the valves it may take a bit more time but the results are great
Please explain how hand lapping gives better results...
Bullshit too. The valve gringing machine does the best job.
I simply cannot believe the dumb ass people on here that thinks this is a good way to do a valve job. It will never last long.
BULL SHIT TOO.
They do make a Leslie tool that will work on sunken valves as well as not it has a little magnet in it it'll catch the keepers when removing it very fast compared to the old school spring compressors
Use a C clamp style valve spring compressor. You can even get air actuated ones. Not terribly expensive. Substantially easier. You should also mention that you need to check valve guide clearance. If its loose your wasting your time. Burn oil like crazy and valve will never seat properly. Also mention that you need enough margin at the base of the valve or it may tulip the valve. If the valve is bent or severely pitted on the land you can lap it till the cows come home it will never seat. Check exhaust valves thoroughly for pitting at stem nearest the valve base for thinning and pitting as it creates a weak or breaking point. Exhaust valve guide clearance will always be greater due to the heat of the the exhaust stroke and exhaust valve being open. Also check that the seats are not sunk to deep or they will need replacement. Also more likely to be on the exhaust valve seat due to heat.
Thanks for the detailed video, very educational!
So the valve keeper came off(long story short timing and valves were off), and the valve got bent, 3rd cylinder intake side. ONCE the head came off we see small broken metal pieces in the fourth cylinder, which caught a few rounds of combustion covering the head of the frth cyl in small metal fragments and the piston aswell sustained a few gouges.. 1 notably close to the cylinder wall.. along with the 3rd cyl piston getting a nice chunk from the valve(presumably what got into the 4rth cyl) from a a stock b18b not sure where to proceed, would like to save this engine without having to fully rebuild/bore if possible
When you get the valve lapped correctly all it takes is a very small amount of pressure.. So small that holding it in with the pressure of your thumb or finger it won't leak when you pore a small amount of gasoline in the chamber.. If it leaks you need to do some more grinding on that valve.. I use lee use a drill bit extension on the hard to reach valves.. Works much better than a pice of hose that can slip off.. Hope this helps anyone else out and or the one that shot this video.. A drill works much better and faster than the old hand tool.. Once you get the hang of it you can do most heads in 30 mins with a drill, where you'll be at each valve 30/45 mins with the old hand tool..
Can you do a video detailing a home based diy valve job for cars with valve lifters please?
The difference between a DOHC, SOHC, (DUAL & SINGLE OVER HEAD CAM) motors and the over head valve motor is push rods and rocker arms. The valve job itself is the same. It's just the disassembly and reassembly that's a little different. The next one I do, I will definitely make a video. I think I will also video the head removal as well. I made a video of a VW convertible Rear window regulator repair. It was a video of just repairing the regulator itself. After I posted it, I had several requests for a video of the removal and install.
Anyway, thank you for watching and the request. The next one I get in, I'll video it.
Hi Rex, thanks for the reply. I'm a little confused. Are you saying that doing a valve job with hydrolic lifters is the same? I would just like to see the disassembly/reassembly of one that uses hydrolic lifters. Thanks!
Once it has been taken apart down to the valve, spring, retainer, and keepers, the lifters are out of the equation. You would grind the valves the same either way. Over head cam or over head valves. If you were doing a valve job (using a valve grinding machine) on a head with pucks or tappets that were not hydraulic, you would have to measure the installed height of the valves. A valve grinding machine takes a lot off the valve face and valve seat causing an increase in the installed height. Then you would have to grind the right amount off the valve stem to compensate. Otherwise, your valve would get hung open, resulting in a loss of compression. Some lifters ( pucks, tappets) that are not hydraulic, only have a couple of thousandth of an inch leeway. Hydraulic lifters have about 50 thousandth leeway. The good thing about lapping the valve with grinding compound is, you would have to grind one valve for hours to affect the installed height. It would be hard to grind to much if you tried. I hope I answered your question somewhere in this reply. Sorry for rambling on.
Great Video, some better clearer camera angles would help even more, either way awesome stuff.
Great video have one question I'm working on 2.4 L and doing a head gasket I've removed all bolts but I can not get the head to pop off am I miss something .out of a 2010 vibe
Make sure you loosened 10 head bolts then if its still stuck, pry on it a little to see if it breaks loose.
@@You-Tube...005 thanks a bunch I didn't see one head bolt was hidden under a race.so now how do I determine if head gasket bad or cracked block there was water in the oil.
Great video ...I have to do this to my Ram 5.7 .....popping the valve out and putting in the keepers without expensive tools exactly what I was searching for ! Thanks !
You are freakin nuts.
Very nice learnt a lot from this video
Great videos!! I'm doing a valve job on an Outback Mitsubishi.. Anyway I feel like you have showed me a few things that will speed up the process. Leak check was nice! And blocks of wood to protect the valves when compressing help me lots! Thank you!
Thank you for watching! God bless!
Since you removed the heads, would a machinest still need to shave the head in order to get the head to sit flush when you go to reinstall and torque?
@DJ29Joesph only if you overheated and had a blown head gasket. I always use a straight edge and feeler gauges to make sure the surface side is within the warpage limits. All engines are a little different, but usually a few thousandths of an inch. I have a how-to video about checking the surface with a straight edge. Hope this helps
Thanks for watching
@You-Tube...005 thanks!
How much does a job like this cost to replace belt and fix bent valves
How did you get your timing done after? Since you took the cams out, no marks. I'm asking because I'm doing my first timing chain change and being so ignorant, I rotated the cam sprockets individually because I had no clue what i was doing. Now I have to start the timing from scratch and I don't even know if I did any damage to the valves. Then a friend with more knowledge came over and I told him I turned the cam but didn't know if it was 180 or whatever. Then he turned it back with a wrench and said they couldn't be damaged. Now i'm stuck and don't know what to do. I put the chain on but when we were putting it on, we had to pull the exhaust cam clockwise way down to put the mark on the triangle and then at 5' oclock at the crankshaft sprocket in the 12 o'clock position. We forced it so much that when we were done and did enough revolutions for it to come around again, the chain was behind one tooth on all 3 marks. It's like there is not enough chain between the exhaust sprocket triangle and the camshaft dot at the 5 o'clock position for TDC, It slips out of 12 oclock position. I doubt anyone understands what i'm talking about but I'm trying to explain anyways. I need someone like you to come and fix it LOL. Thanks for any help.
Did the valves nick or damage the pistons also?
I'm blown away that the name "You Tube" wasn't taken many many years ago
What ypu did is ok but the stem becomes (taller) so if this was a bucket type valve you would have to grind on the stem end to get proper clearance.
Nice video. Great job man
NICE VIDEO, Thank You.... All 16 of my valves bent due to tension pulley broke in my timing housing, So I'm replacing all the valves, So with that said, Do you still have to use the compound with the new valves?
Yes you need to lap the new valves to the valve seats to make a good seal, they cannot just simply be installed - lap away! And fluid testing to check for leaking valves is better with kerosene or gasoline or brake cleaner because the surface tension of these liquids are much less than water and they will be much more precise at showing a leaking valve whereas water may not flow as readily. Even lighter fluid would be good.
Surface side in specno machine shop?
Awesome setup. I have a 2004 volvo s40 with a bad head gasket. 160k miles....Should i do the valves while i have them off?
I have a 09 chev volebolt My coil and plug and injection is good. Checked it out geting ready to do a. Compression check on the number 2 cyleinder. The car has a bad miss I can unplug the. Coil and the engine stays the same no change in the engine sound could it be a bad valve leaking Some one comment me to help. I can’t afford a garage but I am willing to to the job on my own I think I can It would be a good chalange for me. Thanks
Thank you, I've been wondering for a while how to do this. I assume it's necessary to do this when installing brand new valves, too, right? Since they still have to mate up with a used hole? lol
I always lap in new valves.
How much compared to shop how much time it take.
I have a GM Holden Astra, the timing belt snapped.. they replaced the timing belt but car still wont start, they said it could possibly be a bent valve.. is it possible to check this myself without pulling out the whole motor and what equipment do i use? they said it would cost me a lot of money to get it done. I was under the impression if the motor is a non interference motor, there shouldnt be damage to the valves.
Leah Innes you can have a valve to valve contact with a none interference engine but idk to much about that exact car
I agree with James even if the engine is a non interference engine it could still have valve to valve interference. But an easy way to check that would to do a compression test if the valves are not closing correctly it will show no compression in whatever cylinder you are testing. But honestly they could have the timing 180 out because for not to run at all would mean that every single valve would have to have damage. Usually what I will do is take the spark plug out and look inside of the cylinder and see if I can see any damage with an inspection camera if I see any metal inside of there then I know there's got to be some kind of catastrophic failure that had to happened
😂
Did you have to actually unbend any ? Mine are pretty BAD
If the valve was leaking water, it seems to me the vale is either bent or in in need of being made round again. Replace the vale before seating, or use a valve grinder on the old one to make it true again, then seat the valve.
T-REX do you have a 2 cam head removal video on the sonota?? Please and Thank you!?!?
Tierney Gilliam PC or
I wouldn't know,ill find out..but I got it done now tryna get it back together!! Thank you so much!
How about bent valves try to straigthen or replace? 1995 honda odyssey broke timing belt hwy with 295,241 miles.will be putting all tdc then leak down if no go will remove head if go will install new . May replace intake and exhaust valves plus all related gaskets felpro numero uno
Very helpful thank you for your efforts, it makes my life easier
You shared the pap coin checking experience very well
Great video, I admire your ingenuity.
Thank you for the comment and for watching!
Buy the otc valve tool it’s only 50 bucks and the attachments lock on which makes it easy. I’ve done hundreds of valves this is by far bet tool. Also easiest way to remove the locks is with a socket and a hammer.
Is there a way to check for bent valves without removing the cylinder head or not
A compression test or a cylinder leak down test.
Ok thank you so much
I have a 2.2 ecotec I'm working on. It is a no start engine. It has spark, good fuel pressure but the compression is off... Cylinders 1-3 have at least 220 but the 4th has about 150-160 can't remember exactly because it's been a minute since I checked but close. Anyway I removed the valve cover a while ago to take a look at the top of the chain. It looked tight. So I left it alone. Was unable to do a leak down test. Anyway I ended up taking the timing cover off yesterday ( I had reassembled everything else 2 weeks ago so I only removed the timing cover) Anyway I'll be removing the valve cover again tomorrow because I ran out of daylight removing the timing cover. My issue is I think it may be bent valves in cylinder 4 or it jumped timing because the chain is tight and does look great. If it has jumped timing how do I align the cams correctly... If you don't know can you direct me to someone who does... Thanks....
If the chain jumped you will need to figure out why it jumped see if it's a failed tensioner or in my case a broken chain guide. But there alot of detailed videos showing how to replace or adjust the timing chain. Set the crankshaft at 12 o'clock use a screwdriver or something long to make sure piston 1 is all the way up set exhaust cam at 10 o'clock and inv at 2 oclock. Trouble is if chain jumped or broke while driving then you probably bent the valves and will have to use this video like I am. Hope this helps good lick
fix it?
@@flyhigh985 nope... The car had been purchased from a salvage yard and the reason why it was messed up.
Who would I look for to try to do a head job with messed up valves due to timing belt breaking? Just a regular mechanic?
GREAT video and instructions 👌
Thank you
cool, I hope tis works for me. you kept it very simple but detailed step by step.
The process is the same, but a drill and rubber hose is a good trick, and if I remember there were coarse and fine lapping compound
Thanks for the video!
My buddy has a suction cup old school lapper. lol cant wait to show him this. freakin Genius. hey how you hold the valve in there ? are you pulling pressure with the drill ?
TT M
I use a piece of vacuum hose that fits snug on the valve stem. I pull lightly and let off every couple seconds to spread the compound. I also reach(Do the reach around) around the cylinder head and hold the back side of the valve when it's spinning. you can feel and hear the valve cutting into the valve seat. once you start doing it, you will get the feel of it and you will understand exactly what im talking about. hope this helps, thanks for the reply
TT M hey do you have to do this when replacing the old valves with brand new ones? Or with new valves you just put them in?
you have to lap new ones too. it is the only way to ensure an air tight fit.
A very good tool is that old school cup lapper. Why? Because it can exert relatively square force on the valve that no vacuum hose ever could.
Best thing I have found is: use drill & hose to turn valve, use cup lapper with lube on the end to push the valve. You can even do this one-man style. Drill in one hand, lapper in the other.
Full control of your pressure, rotation direction, and speed. Position your setup so you can see the valve seat side. and as you push-pull the setup, you can see the valve face and seat and compound.
The ole In-Out yeah? A bit of the Ultra Violence.
Stay gold.
Cool" You Tube" name lol thanks for the info great video
Sorry if this a redundant question but when I order a new valves to replace an existing bent valve. The new valve still needs to be lapped with the cylinder head?
yes you always lap the replacement valve into the cylinder head.
Excellent, thank you!! A great help!
Great video. I like how you explain your process. Pretty innovative on your pcv pipe gadget. This is really helpful when the time comes to do one of these jobs. Mahalo !
How much was this job?
I have a question. I was driving my car and pull over to the gas station and once I put gas on it the car didn't turn over but only crank n I tow it home and check n the chain tensioner was bad so the cam shaft jump a tooth or two. I replaced the tensioner n I'm on the process of putting everything together but my question is, do you think there is a bend valves? The timing belt didn't broke but the tensioner in bank one was a lil loose and didn't align at TDC. One or two links on the chain were jump by the sprocket.
Angel Contreras
Only a tooth or two shouldn't have been enough to contact the valves. Once the chain is back together, you could do a compression test.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
T- REX thank you. I would do that
How do you know when you've spun it long enough? Do you have to put it back in and test it? Or is the sound helpful to know when it's about done?
get saved
wipe the compound off the valve and valve seat. look at the valve and valve seat real close at different angles, you can see where the compound has cut. sometimes ill use a flashlight to inspect. once I have seen that the valve has been hitting all the way around, ill go to the next one. be sure not to mix the valves up. If the valve is bent, replace it with a new one. You will need to lap the new valves. And I always fluid check them when I done.
Hope this helps,
Thank you for the comment
always fluid check the valves after you lap them. This will ensure that the valves are seated correctly.
Hope this helps
Thank you
@@You-Tube...005 you want to see a nice clean grey continuous circle in your seat and on your valve with out any imperfections. fluid test but remember when the engine is warmed and everything as expanded to its tolerances you will get an 100% seal. great video mate!
I just did this to an Acura TL with two bent exhuast valves....I really wish I used the water method to check the other valves rather than just lapping the two that needed replacing...ugh
There was leakage with the other valves?
@@adictiveadictive no I don't believe so
Good video.. BTW they do sell/rent C-clamp type valve spring compressors. They're still a pain to use... but, much easier to set up.
You are just as stupid as the video
@@allenhetrick7694 I have my MENSA card... how about you?
I've also got a bit of experience rebuilding gas and diesel engines and heads in an automotive machine shop. How about you?
@@allenhetrick7694 you are a troll go home shut your lying mouth . You do not know shit from apple butter . You do not know anything about being a real mechanic.
Good stuff nice details
Dude, great info on how-to but get you a better camera that focuses. Cheers
Hey sr what it is the name of that glue you used to stick the keeper to the screwdriver at minute 16:20 ?
White lithium grease
Thanks for the upload, very well done video. (Although I look forward to when you get a camera that can better focus on close ups, still great work!) And how on earth did you get that channel name??? Pretty cool. Subbed!
At what mileage did the timing belt snap
IT IS NOT A BELT...IT'S A CHEAP ASS CHAIN. AND WHEN THEY BREAK THIS MOST ALWAYS BENDS THE EXHAUST VALVES BECAUSE THEY ARE CLOSER TO THE PISTONS.
im looking at a car on fb market place that has one bent valve and i have never worked on a car how hard would it be for me to do it my self?
When cutting the valve are you just pushing up on the valve with your fingers to keep pressure on the valve seat?
How do you know if a valve needs to be replaced? If the valve leaks water after a timing belt fail, but it doesn't visibly look bent, can you still lap it in? At what point do you replace a valve? Thanks!!
Backyard Foodie
If the valve is gushing during the fluid check, remove the valve and put the valve stem end first, in a drill and spin it. If it's bent, you will see it wobble. Sometimes they will slightly contact a piston. It all depends on the position of the camshaft lobes when the timimg belt fails. Hope the helps!
Why so?
you should use assembly lube not lithium grease and the Lisle 36050 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer Kit by Lisle
john joseph I used assembly oil for years when working in the machine shop. I have found it doesn't last. Parts that were assembled with assembly oil were dry after a couple of weeks sitting on a shelf. It really doesn't matter as long as it's not dry. The point of this video, is to show that anyone can do a basic valve job at home without special tools. In my opinion, the keeper tool is unnecessary and a waste of money. Hope you enjoyed and thank you for commenting.
My timing belt snapped on me, I was going uphill about 25 mph. The car just stopped dead, it didn't move till it was on the tow truck. Do you think I have engine damage? And about how much would it cost to repair the engine? 2005 Mitsubishi Outlander. 155,000 miles
It all depends on the position of the camshaft lobes when the timing belt broke. Problem is, you won't know until you get into it. Again, the cost all depends on how much damage. To get an idea, you can inject air in the cylinders. When the intake and exhaust valves are closed, it should not leak air. If it is leaking, take the air box hose off and check to see if air is escaping from the intake. If it is, its coming from the intake valve. If it is leaking from the exhaust valve, you can sometimes hear or feel it coming from the tailpipe. If the valves are holding air, and it is still leaking, remove the oil dipstick or the oil fill cap and check for escaping air. If its leaking from either of those, its going to be the piston or piston rings. If you do it this way, the valves will need to be in the closed position. You do not want to spin the cams not knowing the position of the piston. You can do more damage. You can remove the cams or the rockers before you begin. If this is to much, you can always get an inspection camera.
Hope this helps. Thank you for watching!
That was amazing, and you just made my day! Thanks allot, I'm gonna do it.
your welcome, im happy this has helped people. Thank you for the comment.
You forgot a couple of things.. like replacing the valve guide seal's and polishing the valve stems. If you take the time to do this job for God sakes man do it right. The seals are the least expensive part of the job. What about the valve guide's them selves? If the valve is bent your gonna have to fix the guide I promise you that. Well my question is how long did it run after the premium valve job?
I definitely understand where you are coming from and if it were your car I was working on, I would absolutely sell you valve stem seals, water pump, serpentine belt, new hoses, and probably the oil pan gasket. The last time I seen a Hyundai with bad valve stem seals is never. The head gasket will probably blow from deterioration before the valve stem seals start leaking oil into the cylinders. If it were a Mopar from the early 2000's then definitely change them.
I replaced a head gasket on a 1992 2.2 chevy cavalier When I removed the rockers the nuts were as tight as they would go. when I put them back together I tighten them back tight. Is there a small backout for the lash?
Just tighten them down, that 2.2L has hydraulic lifters. Just make sure the pushrods are seated correctly in the lifters.
How do you know exactly when the valve has been seated after grinding?
look for an even and non interrupted shiny grind ring around the seat and valve meaning its mated well
@@silvergryphon21 thanks for the reply!
Great video, thank you !
I am just curious why not just buy a new valve? It's still bent isn't it going to run screwed up anyway?
This tutorial assumes the valve stem is still straight. If the valve isn't seated properly and leaking, this method will help you reseat
Thanks brother
That's exactly how I did mine too. A drill and a piece of hose. It's safer that way to avoid putting side pressure on the valve guide when hooking your drill straight to the valve.
Bull shit. You should always oil the guides before doing any grinding. This is not the way to grind valves. It will never last.
@@allenhetrick7694 Here is this lying sob again posting something he know nothing about .
Thanks bro
Can you explane how to adjust the camshaft with krankshaft and timingbelt ??
Question: You are using new valves right? And what about valve guides and seats? I just broke a timing belt on honda interference engine😎
Did u fix it bro
I put the magnet in the socket and the keepers pop into the magnet every time
Wow. Well done. Very good content teaching this. Thk U. 🙂
Thank you for the kind words, and thank you for watching!
Thank you nice video