Thank you for the video, I will share your video in one of my video as a reference. I see in your other comment that you pushed 2,000 amps through them which is good to hear, since I'm only planning to do up to 1,000 for now.
There are a few things to remember one you are not switching them under load I assume so the contacts are not being abused that way. The other is that while they may see brief periods of high amperage The Continuous amperage is going to be quite a bit lower. That said you should remember that the motor side of the controller can be seeing more amperage than the battery side.
I'm having issues with my controller setup. I bought the cart from someone who installed an SW182 reversing contactor setup for the cart and it works great in reverse and barley trys to creep in forward. Cables get super hot when i do try in reverse. I appreciate your time
That's common if you have your hook up wrong what ends up is you or bypassing the field or the Armature. If you draw it out you'll probably see or send me your drawing and I'll look at it
My application is a golf cart. After buying an S202 and pondering a bit, I would rather have had 2 separate DPDT contactors. The configuration of the S202 requires that one or the other solenoid be engaged. I would have preferred to wire the circuit so that in the normally closed state the motor runs forward, so the reversing relay consumes zero power for the 99% of the time I'm running forward. Not a big deal. If I'm missing something please let me know.
That's an interesting idea I imagine it could be worked out, you would probably have to have both contactors on for reverse I had no contractors on for forward neutral would be one on and one off.
@@steveclunn8165 I fried my brain trying to see a way to do it. My only thought was to cut the bar between the two solenoids which is under your M+ connection, but I'd need another lug on the other side of that bar. Oh well, what's a few more milliamps?
Yes this is to absorb the energy when you turn off the contactor. But you got to get it going in the right direction so it doesn't conduct when you turn it on. This will save your controller it doesn't have to be a specific one almost any diet will be all right
I am switching from ezgo txt with manual shifter to the system you have made this video about. Four wires come from motor to the manual shifter. Three of them you are hooking up, S1 and S2 and A2. I am assuming that A1 is that yellow wire with alligator clips in your video. Am I correct? Thank you for your video. My cart is 36 volt ezgo 1999 model that I use on my farm. I am not a golfer.
@@steveclunn8165 Thank you very much for your help. There are two safety switches on the old manual shifter. Three wires go to these two switches. One wire goes to controller. One goes to charging port. One looks like goes to the key. Where do these wires go to after I install the new Reversing Contactor / Solenoid.
@@skytoydotcom your speed controller may have a slow reverse input so that the cart doesn't go fast in reverse. This would have been energized from your manual reversing switch. You'll probably have to hook two small relays to the coils of the two reversing contactor. When the reverse contactor is on it will energize the little relay and in turn energize the slow or reverse pin on the controller. Forward contactor will energize the full speed pin. Some set ups route the throttle box output to pins. The key switch maybe what powers the key on pin on the controller so that if the directions switch is in neutral the controller will be off. Do you have a wiring diagram. If not it might be a good idea to write one up. I would take a look at it and analyze it if you did
@@steveclunn8165 Thank you for offer of looking at my wiring diagram. I will dig into the wiring and make a diagram of it. It is an old cart and I can tell previous owners have replaced and rerouted wires all over the place. So I have to Trace the wiring and make a diagram. Will get back to you. Thanks again.
@@skytoydotcom making a diagram of the way it's set up right now is probably the best thing. Usually you can simplify things which is probably what's happened getting rid of all the safety switches Etc. You can add the miter if you like. Not being able to drive when plugged in might be one of them. If you have a 12-volt system that stepped in on one of the batteries second from the bottom this control your battery pack out of balance so might want to get rid of that set up and go with a small dc-to-dc converter. These are now popular and pretty cheap
The contactor basically is 2 on switches. there are four of them two contactors each with a separate set of poles. So when the first contactor coil is off and the second contactor coil is on we have One Direction but there is current flowing through both of the contactors. You can also think of it as a single throw double pole switch. I've used the Albright 202 contactor which is rated at two hundred amps but as we are not switching it under load I have pushed as much as 2000 amps through this contactor with no problem. That's what the Zillow 2000 amp controller we'll put out.
dolinick no I've never seen one of these controllers sorry for the late delay in replying, for some reason I'm not getting notifications of questions on my UA-cam videos.
Is there anywhere online I can find the simplified idiots breakdown for this like in a diagram. I’m getting ready to convert my Yamaha 36 V and would love to have a piece of paper I could tack to my wall to follow along.
Hi Steve I appreciate your knowledge, do you know if this would be able to be used to for a 1970 ge dc electric motor that switches positive and neg to reverse motor? If you have the time id greatly appreciate ur email address to discuss further if u have the time?
Thank you for the video, I will share your video in one of my video as a reference. I see in your other comment that you pushed 2,000 amps through them which is good to hear, since I'm only planning to do up to 1,000 for now.
There are a few things to remember one you are not switching them under load I assume so the contacts are not being abused that way. The other is that while they may see brief periods of high amperage The Continuous amperage is going to be quite a bit lower. That said you should remember that the motor side of the controller can be seeing more amperage than the battery side.
I'm having issues with my controller setup. I bought the cart from someone who installed an SW182 reversing contactor setup for the cart and it works great in reverse and barley trys to creep in forward. Cables get super hot when i do try in reverse. I appreciate your time
That's common if you have your hook up wrong what ends up is you or bypassing the field or the Armature. If you draw it out you'll probably see or send me your drawing and I'll look at it
My application is a golf cart. After buying an S202 and pondering a bit, I would rather have had 2 separate DPDT contactors. The configuration of the S202 requires that one or the other solenoid be engaged. I would have preferred to wire the circuit so that in the normally closed state the motor runs forward, so the reversing relay consumes zero power for the 99% of the time I'm running forward. Not a big deal. If I'm missing something please let me know.
That's an interesting idea I imagine it could be worked out, you would probably have to have both contactors on for reverse I had no contractors on for forward neutral would be one on and one off.
@@steveclunn8165 I fried my brain trying to see a way to do it. My only thought was to cut the bar between the two solenoids which is under your M+ connection, but I'd need another lug on the other side of that bar. Oh well, what's a few more milliamps?
@@SafroleJay Yes you have to cut that bar and extend it or get a double pole solenoid but I haven't seen any though.
Do I need a 1N5408 diode on each side connecting the pos & neg blade terminals?
Yes this is to absorb the energy when you turn off the contactor. But you got to get it going in the right direction so it doesn't conduct when you turn it on. This will save your controller it doesn't have to be a specific one almost any diet will be all right
I am switching from ezgo txt with manual shifter to the system you have made this video about.
Four wires come from motor to the manual shifter. Three of them you are hooking up, S1 and S2 and A2. I am assuming that A1 is that yellow wire with alligator clips in your video. Am I correct?
Thank you for your video.
My cart is 36 volt ezgo 1999 model that I use on my farm. I am not a golfer.
Yes .
@@steveclunn8165 Thank you very much for your help.
There are two safety switches on the old manual shifter. Three wires go to these two switches.
One wire goes to controller. One goes to charging port. One looks like goes to the key. Where do these wires go to after I install the new Reversing Contactor / Solenoid.
@@skytoydotcom your speed controller may have a slow reverse input so that the cart doesn't go fast in reverse. This would have been energized from your manual reversing switch. You'll probably have to hook two small relays to the coils of the two reversing contactor. When the reverse contactor is on it will energize the little relay and in turn energize the slow or reverse pin on the controller. Forward contactor will energize the full speed pin. Some set ups route the throttle box output to pins. The key switch maybe what powers the key on pin on the controller so that if the directions switch is in neutral the controller will be off. Do you have a wiring diagram. If not it might be a good idea to write one up. I would take a look at it and analyze it if you did
@@steveclunn8165
Thank you for offer of looking at my wiring diagram.
I will dig into the wiring and make a diagram of it. It is an old cart and I can tell previous owners have replaced and rerouted wires all over the place. So I have to Trace the wiring and make a diagram.
Will get back to you. Thanks again.
@@skytoydotcom making a diagram of the way it's set up right now is probably the best thing. Usually you can simplify things which is probably what's happened getting rid of all the safety switches Etc. You can add the miter if you like. Not being able to drive when plugged in might be one of them. If you have a 12-volt system that stepped in on one of the batteries second from the bottom this control your battery pack out of balance so might want to get rid of that set up and go with a small dc-to-dc converter. These are now popular and pretty cheap
How do you rate the contactors for amperage? Do they share amperage or do they both need to be rated for full amps?
The contactor basically is 2 on switches. there are four of them two contactors each with a separate set of poles. So when the first contactor coil is off and the second contactor coil is on we have One Direction but there is current flowing through both of the contactors. You can also think of it as a single throw double pole switch. I've used the Albright 202 contactor which is rated at two hundred amps but as we are not switching it under load I have pushed as much as 2000 amps through this contactor with no problem. That's what the Zillow 2000 amp controller we'll put out.
@@steveclunn8165 I really appreciate the info. Thanks
Looking for more info. I have a tiger mini truck with there contractor having trouble getting it hooked up and help would be great. Thanks
Did you get this straighted out ,didn't see this till now
Why dont you use h-bridge instead of external contactors?
The amperage is pretty high .200 to 1000 amps depending on controller.
do you have an ev-1 scr controller?
dolinick no I've never seen one of these controllers sorry for the late delay in replying, for some reason I'm not getting notifications of questions on my UA-cam videos.
What brand do you use?
Albright , we sell them at www.greenshedconversions.com
Is there anywhere online I can find the simplified idiots breakdown for this like in a diagram. I’m getting ready to convert my Yamaha 36 V and would love to have a piece of paper I could tack to my wall to follow along.
Its a different setup for series motors than permanent magnet motors . which on are u using?
@@steveclunn8165 I'm gonna be working on a series motor and would appreciate some direction.
Hi Steve
I appreciate your knowledge, do you know if this would be able to be used to for a 1970 ge dc electric motor that switches positive and neg to reverse motor?
If you have the time id greatly appreciate ur email address to discuss further if u have the time?