Відео

AA battery cars

Where did you buy this?

I always wondered why evs don't have tachometers

It's programed backward. You need a 5k-zero throttle pot.

lol

Sorry ezgo

I have a question for you maybe you can help, I have scratched my head on this until it’s raw, I have a 2001 echo golf cart that’s 36 volts, to be clear the cart hasn’t worked since a repair shop tried to diagnose it. In the beginning the cart worked as expected and would just shut off at random, at some point the controller may have gotten damaged from the repair shop because I replaced it with a new 1205-117 and the cart started moving again I fount the random shutting off issue to be the 4 wire plug from the its, now here is the main issue I can’t figure out, I have 12 volts from the controller to the input wire on the its but the same exact voltage coming out of the it’s back to the controller and the unit tries to lake off at full speed when the solenoid engages, I replace the it’s with 3 different ones, what am I missing? I call myself tracing all the wiring based on the schematic I found online and it all seems correct, I bypassed the its with a pot 0-5 ohm and it work as expected

Very cool

Sir what happens if the negative signal for the contactor green wire at pin 17,is not coming, what's the cause.any suggestion

This is awesome!

great

As an electrical engineer, it took me two views to completely understand your setup. You have a very rare understanding of electrical circuitry. I'd imaging that most people's brains would short circuit trying to follow along with your unique configuration. We're not all wired the same way. Nice work, I admire your ingenuity.

234

Stressed me out! Great learning video.

Anthony Bourdain is back doing EV conversions!

Thanks for sharing your story and your tip look forward to seeing your build

Hi thank you for the nice presentation. I'm new to smart bms. I want to change few parameters before connecting bms to battery. Is it possible? Does bms require power supply just to configure?

Put a small bock Chevy in it and off we go!

Sorry to hear about your trouble! Modern companies are over-complicating such a simple thing, a DC motor. Motors requiring special modules and controllers, and other electronics which "lock you in" to that specific company. When the product is discontinuted or the company goes bankrupt, if one module fails, nothing is salvagable and the entire motor and control system becomes scrap!

Hi there have you any more videos on the zilla setup?

You'll figure it out Steve. When will companies learn you buy a customer for LIFE with one helpful phone call, and lose one by trying to shake him down for an "advisery fee"

All you do is crimp the pin on, push them in from the backside and then put the plastic wedge cover on

star maintenance urban venita

Is "IL" interlock?

If that's an amphenol connector you shouldn't actually have to take the top lock off usually those just pop up and you can put the Spade inside the connector press the lockdown and it holds it in place

How to connect the BMS, with computer, can you write the name of USB and their drive for computer, and the cable.

Alright

Ok

how to install this software ?

Hi and thank you for this video, yes this BMS is good I also selected it for my future project. But my project is with a total pack of 96S cells, and I was thinking of using 4 BMS like this to control 4 pack of 24 cells. obviously they will be connected separately, to never take the total voltage of the 96 cells which gives around 350V! We then just need to be able to ensure that each BMS can control the main charging and discharging relays. It must be possible. In any case, thank you for sharing your videos.

Hi, thanks for this video! Has the meter continued to work for you? Also if someone wanted to monitor their car battery (primarily to monitor miliamps of drain, what size unit would they get? I have a Honda Element with a 4 Cylinder engine. The battery specs say the cold cranking ams are 500A. If I got the smaller, 50A one, would it be short circuited if I cranked my car?

First video I found for b2a25s-rp! Good work this helped. Perhaps add the name to the title of the video. Would be much easier to find. Thank you for the help.

Love your videos

Kostov not Kostof😊

Do you have a method for spin balancing the shaft once you get it all welded up straight? If so, I'd be interested in seeing that.

i d like to on SL

Would ya look at that.

For some controllers, (Curtis 1204-410) the Pot /Throttle needs to vary 6K ohm - 0 ohm. Example, Club Car DS. Prior to pressing the Go peddle, the (MCOR) throttle will read 6K ohm.

If something's worth doing, it's worth doing right! ᕙ(⇀‸↼‶)ᕗ

You will be fine! You have been doing this for 30 years!

nem mutatod amit a masik mutat de rossz megoldas es a tied milyen mutass tobbet

Thank you!

Is that for manual transmission

That's a very interesting idea. But what currents go trough these relays? Also, if they power a motor controller of any type (Inverter, VFD, ESC, whatever) it usually has quite large input capacitors. So, these input capacitors will cause quite a large inrush currents. Usually, a relay / DC contactor based BMS has a precharge relay in series with a precharge resistor. It's in parallel with the main discharge relay. First switches the precharge relay, than after a few seconds the main relay is on, and than the precharge relay is of. A remark: I think "C-" is used if the BMS has separate charging and discharging connectors. It must be "P-" instead of "C-".

The Pinto is the best car for EV conversion, because it’s gas tank was the reason it was a death trap

Always loved the internal design in these 90s BMWs. No nonsense, functional, but also beautiful.

I was quite interested in EV a few years ago. So I remember Grassroots. Well done, sir.

A motor controller failing full on can be a scary thing. I had that happen in a car once. That car was also clutch-less, but I repurposed the clutch pedal to be a manual power disconnect. Stomping the clutch instantly killed the power.

Curious about the peak voltage... It would be interesting to cycle test at various values. I'm also curious if during a DCFC we can perhaps push hard at a higher ca (constant amps) for longer until a higher cv (constant voltage) 4.2vpc, and then at that point drop to a more conservative cv or say 3.6~3.7 vs an aggressive 4.1~4.2vpc if that's only about 1% capacity difference. How does the duration change?