I've been fighting with this board since 2014. The first company that installed it had to send out 3 different techs because they didn't know what they was doing, and when I had a different company come out 2 years ago for service they said it was still wired wrong. Your the first person that I've found online to explain it in as much detail as you do. Thank You. My house is set up 2 zones for standard natural gas furnace and ac.
Zoned systems need to be installed and set up by a SEASONED LICENSED Contractor, static pressures must be within manufacturer specifications and by pass dampers installed, with low and high temp protection, I prefer dump zone if you have one or two instead of blending into the return, a seasoned contractor should be familiar with psychometric charts , and air side equations, with load calculations , if your contractor is not up to speed on these imo I'd look for one that is.
I know nothing about HVAC but I feel like I know a decent amount just from watching this video. Super informative and simple. Got the dad jokes on lock too haha.
Love this video... Can I make one criticism? I have installed access control systems for a living in my past. When you have a multi-conductor cable and you don't use all of the conductors, please don't chop the unused wire off. Simply wrap them around the cable sheathing. When you upgrade to a different controller and/or different dampers that require an additional conductor or when you end up with a dead wire, you can easily switch to a new conductor quickly and get back up and running without pulling new cable.
First time I’ve seen one of your videos and the way you are able to explain things in such simple terms tells me you really know your stuff. I provide tech support for a couple manufacturers in Houston and recently took an EWC class. I was extremely impressed with their products and their boards are a work of art. Now that you’ve had it installed and running are you happy with everything? Any updates or things you would have done differently or liked to be improved? Thanks for the video.
The difference between a mechanical contractor and a Wana be that don't know static pressure from a peanut, Zack is a professional a brother in the hvac trade that uses acca and common sense codes. U go zack.
a zoning system was pitched to me from an HVAC company....the air handling system i have was designed to handle 1500 sqft, I know this would help my balancing issue with one room not warming up versus the other rooms. he wants to put a thermostat in there and balance that room with the rest of the system, but my worry is what happens when that room is only calling for air and the rest is shutoff. I can only imagine it would short cycle even with a bypass. thats a crap ton of air going into a small room.
For your dip switch settings, do you put #4 in O or B if you have a conventional air conditioning unit? For cooling and heating limits controls: staging timer, would you put it in off when you only have a single stage? Does it matter what temp for 2nd stage heat differential when you only have a single stage? Great video!
we just bought a house with a zoning board. We moved in and it was freezing up. They replaced the blower fan and then replaced a damper/motor. Now every few days it randomly switches and won't allow the damper to open for the downstairs (the new damper) and it blows all the cold air out of the return. Yes we put paper in front of it and it blows the paper away and it is super loud. They don't seem to know what is going on. As now we are paying for all these new parts and want another grand to do the board and $500 to program the board. Its frustrating. How hard is it to buy and install/program the board ourselves? Maintenance guru just not hvac
That’s because it’s wired wrong. By default the 24v red wire should be on the power close side because how they make some dampers is always to be open when no thermostat is calling. When a thermostat calls for the second floor for zone 2 it stays open and zone 1 for first floor closes. Most people think the power wire goes on the power open side but it’s always going to be open when there’s nothing calling for it so switches it to the power close terminal
Thanks for this. At 37:00 when selecting temp settings. If they are reached will the unit start back up after a certain time or is it locked out? Thanks again
Wow that's awesome. You have a very clear way of explaining things, it is easier to understand. I really like your content. So I never looked at that zone board, it looks easy and conventional to work
@@HVACShopTalk thanks man. I knew the first ones were but I haven’t really seen anything about them in the last couple years. I would like to try one someday.
Amazing video! I have the same zone control board on a single AC compressor (single stage) with 2 zones. I recently switched thermostats from the old white and rodgers to a new Honeywell T6. The first zone (upstairs) will turn on AC compressor and furnace fan, the second zone (downstairs) turns on the furnace fan but not the AC compressor so the air blows but it is not cold. Any troubleshooting guidance? Both thermostats are wired exactly the same RGWY. I placed the old thermostat back but it did not make a difference :( thinking about swapping zone 2 wires to zone 3 to see if it’s the board
On the zone control board check voltage on the second zone for r and y and see if you have 24v calling and check thermostat to see if you get the same. Should just be a wiring problem on your second zone if your first zone is working fine.
Working on adding zoning to our system and came across your video! I can't thank you enough for the level of details and education. Thank you so much. One quick question. I like your idea of adding a fuse on the transformer line. What's the rating on the fuse?
I've been fighting with this board since 2014. The first company that installed it had to send out 3 different techs because they didn't know what they was doing, and when I had a different company come out 2 years ago for service they said it was still wired wrong. Your the first person that I've found online to explain it in as much detail as you do. Thank You. My house is set up 2 zones for standard natural gas furnace and ac.
Zoning is done incorrectly a lot of the time. Some light training is required to do it correctly.
Zoned systems need to be installed and set up by a SEASONED LICENSED Contractor, static pressures must be within manufacturer specifications and by pass dampers installed, with low and high temp protection, I prefer dump zone if you have one or two instead of blending into the return, a seasoned contractor should be familiar with psychometric charts , and air side equations, with load calculations , if your contractor is not up to speed on these imo I'd look for one that is.
I know nothing about HVAC but I feel like I know a decent amount just from watching this video. Super informative and simple. Got the dad jokes on lock too haha.
Love this video... Can I make one criticism? I have installed access control systems for a living in my past. When you have a multi-conductor cable and you don't use all of the conductors, please don't chop the unused wire off. Simply wrap them around the cable sheathing. When you upgrade to a different controller and/or different dampers that require an additional conductor or when you end up with a dead wire, you can easily switch to a new conductor quickly and get back up and running without pulling new cable.
What I typically do is leave part of the cable coiled up and taped off so you can extend and make new connections
First time I’ve seen one of your videos and the way you are able to explain things in such simple terms tells me you really know your stuff. I provide tech support for a couple manufacturers in Houston and recently took an EWC class. I was extremely impressed with their products and their boards are a work of art. Now that you’ve had it installed and running are you happy with everything? Any updates or things you would have done differently or liked to be improved? Thanks for the video.
HEY ZACK WATCHING THIS AT 1 AM IS FUN TRYING TO RE LEARN DAMPER AND ZONE SYSTEMS AFTER MANY YRS IN TUE ATTICC FIELD SW FL
Dude you are hard core. Let me know if I can help you. If you need more info on something I can cover it in the show.
I like the Dwyer magnahelic when setting up volumes for zoning , it's a good item for the buck.
Very cool. Nice tool
The difference between a mechanical contractor and a Wana be that don't know static pressure from a peanut, Zack is a professional a brother in the hvac trade that uses acca and common sense codes. U go zack.
Best zoning video ever!!! Thank you and great job.
Thanks Dolph
Any more information on properly adjusting the bypass damper, how to?
Looks good 👍want to see how the Bosch deals with being zoned
So far so good
a zoning system was pitched to me from an HVAC company....the air handling system i have was designed to handle 1500 sqft, I know this would help my balancing issue with one room not warming up versus the other rooms. he wants to put a thermostat in there and balance that room with the rest of the system, but my worry is what happens when that room is only calling for air and the rest is shutoff. I can only imagine it would short cycle even with a bypass. thats a crap ton of air going into a small room.
Thank you for sharing.
really enjoyed this video
Thanks CJ
thanks for teaching, helps me a lot!
Happy to help!
Very good details thumbs up!!!!
Thank you Clinton
great explanation: Q can a zone panel work for one stage compressor and x13 blower motor Thanks
Dumb question but what does the supply air sensor do?
For your dip switch settings, do you put #4 in O or B if you have a conventional air conditioning unit? For cooling and heating limits controls: staging timer, would you put it in off when you only have a single stage? Does it matter what temp for 2nd stage heat differential when you only have a single stage? Great video!
Bad ass man!
we just bought a house with a zoning board. We moved in and it was freezing up. They replaced the blower fan and then replaced a damper/motor. Now every few days it randomly switches and won't allow the damper to open for the downstairs (the new damper) and it blows all the cold air out of the return. Yes we put paper in front of it and it blows the paper away and it is super loud. They don't seem to know what is going on. As now we are paying for all these new parts and want another grand to do the board and $500 to program the board. Its frustrating. How hard is it to buy and install/program the board ourselves? Maintenance guru just not hvac
That’s because it’s wired wrong. By default the 24v red wire should be on the power close side because how they make some dampers is always to be open when no thermostat is calling. When a thermostat calls for the second floor for zone 2 it stays open and zone 1 for first floor closes. Most people think the power wire goes on the power open side but it’s always going to be open when there’s nothing calling for it so switches it to the power close terminal
Thanks for this. At 37:00 when selecting temp settings. If they are reached will the unit start back up after a certain time or is it locked out?
Thanks again
Hi, nice video. What happens if led 6 and 7 are red ? The heather is not working well in the first flood of my house.
Any ideas ?
Wow that's awesome. You have a very clear way of explaining things, it is easier to understand. I really like your content. So I never looked at that zone board, it looks easy and conventional to work
Thanks, thats very kind
Good video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
What brand Of duct tape are you using here?
How do you wire multiple dampers to the same zone
Thanks for your video. Is there a way I can send you pictures of my control board? I am trying to install new stats with wifi and need a common wire.
Porque no lo grava en español para entender mejor gracias
Great video Zack! Are the Bosch RV’s energized for cooling? None of my suppliers here sell them.
No they are heating, I had to go back up and switch it over a week ago.
@@HVACShopTalk thanks man. I knew the first ones were but I haven’t really seen anything about them in the last couple years. I would like to try one someday.
Amazing video! I have the same zone control board on a single AC compressor (single stage) with 2 zones. I recently switched thermostats from the old white and rodgers to a new Honeywell T6. The first zone (upstairs) will turn on AC compressor and furnace fan, the second zone (downstairs) turns on the furnace fan but not the AC compressor so the air blows but it is not cold. Any troubleshooting guidance? Both thermostats are wired exactly the same RGWY. I placed the old thermostat back but it did not make a difference :( thinking about swapping zone 2 wires to zone 3 to see if it’s the board
On the zone control board check voltage on the second zone for r and y and see if you have 24v calling and check thermostat to see if you get the same. Should just be a wiring problem on your second zone if your first zone is working fine.
What type of insulation did you use to wrap the coil and duct?
2 or 3" duct wrap
Lol I like your video just because of your comment hahaha 😂good shit
Will EWC zone system work with a Goodman furnance? i am sorry if its a stupid question. Thanks
Yes sir, it will
Thanks for your timely reply. You are the best
What is m2 on the control board used for?
It is a terminal for constant 24 volt power
Why people drill holes like that, I have no idea
Does the actuator not come off?
Yes, you can remove the actuator
@@HVACShopTalk I remove them, slide the duct, then just cut the holes needed for the actuator.
No pookie???
643 microns???!!!! My god how could you live with yourself 😂😂😂😂
I died a little that day in that warm summer grass. One more compromise and one more inch closer to desolation.
Lmaoooo 😂
Wait what
Working on adding zoning to our system and came across your video! I can't thank you enough for the level of details and education. Thank you so much. One quick question. I like your idea of adding a fuse on the transformer line. What's the rating on the fuse?
I do believe it is a 3 amp fuse (going off memory)