I just got how to wire damper to damper. I have watched your previous video for the zone dampers , didn't got it there but I get here. Thank you for this valuable video. Peace.
Hey there. Thanks for the awesome video. I’ve been having a hard time finding useful videos like this one. In this video, you said that you can loop in as many dampers as you want on one zone, but in a technical training video for Honeywell, the trainer stated that you can’t use more than 4 dampers per zone. You also have to be careful about the size of the transformer you use if you’re going to use a lot of dampers on the board. Thanks again and keep up the good work!
haha, omg, so, here i am looking up dampers and i have heard they can push air up to a 3rd floor, so i come across you wonderful video and cracked up about the mouse traps. lol. ok, back to the video, but i just had to say that.
On the zone bored shows m4 open m6 closed, m1 common, on the zone damper motor m4 is only for the indicator light? M4 on zone motor is not programmed to power open? Just seems a little confusing when there's a wire landed on m4 on zone bored for open buts its only there to light up the led lights. Good video
Thanks for the video I have a question Are supposed to install the damper on the duck that the room is getting colder versus a room that isn’t getting enough cold air?
FYI you can tape around edge of motor to seal air leaks around insulation. Look close at damper, stamped in the plastic says taping surface, near the 1,2,3 and 4 bleed settings.
@@chadriddle3517motor is stuck or damper is stuck, they're designed to open fully, they do not open partially however they close partially, on closed setting they allow you to choose from only the 4 settings to relieve system pressure
Have you ever get tired of the Honeywell zone control dampener actuators sticking failing. And just start substituting them and switching them out with Belimo brand actuators. I know they’re a bit more expensive for the price of just the Blimo actuator you could buy the whole dampener assembly of a Honeywell. But it’s nice not ever having to go back to the job again because the actuator will probably last the life of the whole entire system or longer. That’s what I’ve been starting to do don’t even give the customer a choice get it done once get it done right. And I know I’ll never get called back out to diagnose a repair or replace a part I just put in a few years ago Or one of those job sites where the company before you would get called out every couple months on a system that’s two or three years old and constantly replacing the Honeywell actuators. And then you come and replace the Honeywells with Blimo and the customer notices they never have to call you again for that problem then they’re happy to pay the extra money if there that type of customer
I like the video but dampers take about 8va each so be careful that you add up all the dampers plus the zone panel and make sure it doesn't exceed the va rating of your transformer that powers zone panel.
Hi, great video and very helpful! Can someone please confirm when installing the Damper Motor to the Shaft (that open/close Flap inside the duct) the Flap should be in Open position and tighten the allen wrench screw on Damper Motor? Thanks!
One of the Honeywell dampers (like the one in your video) indicates that's it "Open" however, It doesn't reach the actual "Open" mark but is between 3 and the "Open" mark. Is this okay or should I replace it? It was installed approximately 2 years ago. Thanks in advance for your assistance!
Hi, for what it worth.....if it only open to 3 and you get the temperature in the room or floor to your satisfactions then leave it alone. Option 2, adjust the Flap inside the duct to 90 degrees open and re-tighten the allen screw on Damper Motor. I thinks it is misalignment between the Flap and Damper Motor......the Flap closed 100% but then Damper Motor marker showed at 3 position. Also make sure that long allen wrench screw on the Damper Motor have room to move......sometime the insulation is in the way. Option 3, just maybe something is wrong with the Damper Motor, but since it is only 2yrs old probably not. I am leaning toward misalignment or something is the way of Allen wrench screw for it too come home at Open position. Hope it help and come back share with us what happen.
Thanks for the video, very clear and understandable! I was just quoted $600 to replace that exact damper.
You were lucky. I was just quoted 1200!!!!
I just got how to wire damper to damper. I have watched your previous video for the zone dampers , didn't got it there but I get here. Thank you for this valuable video. Peace.
Awesome to see you back! Love your videos. Thanks man.
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Hey there. Thanks for the awesome video. I’ve been having a hard time finding useful videos like this one.
In this video, you said that you can loop in as many dampers as you want on one zone, but in a technical training video for Honeywell, the trainer stated that you can’t use more than 4 dampers per zone. You also have to be careful about the size of the transformer you use if you’re going to use a lot of dampers on the board.
Thanks again and keep up the good work!
Good to see ya Hope everything is good w/ You
Yea man. It’s going good! 👍 Thanks for watching.
haha, omg, so, here i am looking up dampers and i have heard they can push air up to a 3rd floor, so i come across you wonderful video and cracked up about the mouse traps. lol. ok, back to the video, but i just had to say that.
hey just wondering what happens if u install the damper backwards xD it still opens doesnt it? ductwork just isnt as airtight ?
On the zone bored shows m4 open m6 closed, m1 common, on the zone damper motor m4 is only for the indicator light? M4 on zone motor is not programmed to power open? Just seems a little confusing when there's a wire landed on m4 on zone bored for open buts its only there to light up the led lights. Good video
Thanks for the video
I have a question
Are supposed to install the damper on the duck that the room is getting colder versus a room that isn’t getting enough cold air?
FYI you can tape around edge of motor to seal air leaks around insulation. Look close at damper, stamped in the plastic says taping surface, near the 1,2,3 and 4 bleed settings.
What do the 1,2,3 bleed setting mean ? Mine only opens to 3 during normal cooling mode . Should it not open to 100% open?
@@chadriddle3517motor is stuck or damper is stuck, they're designed to open fully, they do not open partially however they close partially, on closed setting they allow you to choose from only the 4 settings to relieve system pressure
How do you open the tabs to remove/put in a wire to the actual panel (not the damper)?
Just replace the actuator itself is all you need to do.
What does the red selector do? It has the numbers 0 1 2 3
Have you ever get tired of the Honeywell zone control dampener actuators sticking failing.
And just start substituting them and switching them out with Belimo brand actuators.
I know they’re a bit more expensive for the price of just the Blimo actuator you could buy the whole dampener assembly of a Honeywell.
But it’s nice not ever having to go back to the job again because the actuator will probably last the life of the whole entire system or longer.
That’s what I’ve been starting to do don’t even give the customer a choice get it done once get it done right.
And I know I’ll never get called back out to diagnose a repair or replace a part I just put in a few years ago
Or one of those job sites where the company before you would get called out every couple months on a system that’s two or three years old and constantly replacing the Honeywell actuators.
And then you come and replace the Honeywells with Blimo and the customer notices they never have to call you again for that problem then they’re happy to pay the extra money if there that type of customer
I like the video but dampers take about 8va each so be careful that you add up all the dampers plus the zone panel and make sure it doesn't exceed the va rating of your transformer that powers zone panel.
Great! Thank you
Thank you.
Hi, great video and very helpful! Can someone please confirm when installing the Damper Motor to the Shaft (that open/close Flap inside the duct) the Flap should be in Open position and tighten the allen wrench screw on Damper Motor? Thanks!
That's correct
@@HVACTechTips thank you sir.....i will sleep better now. I will subscribe to your channel and looking forward to new video.
Thank you!
One of the Honeywell dampers (like the one in your video) indicates that's it "Open" however, It doesn't reach the actual "Open" mark but is between 3 and the "Open" mark. Is this okay or should I replace it? It was installed approximately 2 years ago. Thanks in advance for your assistance!
Hi, for what it worth.....if it only open to 3 and you get the temperature in the room or floor to your satisfactions then leave it alone. Option 2, adjust the Flap inside the duct to 90 degrees open and re-tighten the allen screw on Damper Motor. I thinks it is misalignment between the Flap and Damper Motor......the Flap closed 100% but then Damper Motor marker showed at 3 position. Also make sure that long allen wrench screw on the Damper Motor have room to move......sometime the insulation is in the way. Option 3, just maybe something is wrong with the Damper Motor, but since it is only 2yrs old probably not. I am leaning toward misalignment or something is the way of Allen wrench screw for it too come home at Open position. Hope it help and come back share with us what happen.
👍
Adapter zone 2 shows closed when Honeywell system is running