Suspension Pan Replacement - Porsche 911 Restoration
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- Опубліковано 14 вер 2018
- I love the look of new metal in an old car. This episode is step 2 showing how to install a Porsche 911 Suspension Pan from Restoration Design. #Porsche911build #RustRepair
Critical tools:
Tram Gage
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53...
Port-A-Power
amzn.to/2xlL8CD
Spot Weld Cutter
amzn.to/2xcV6Hk
This video series filmed in my home workshop highlights the technical details of my classic car restoration (An aircooled Porsche 911). I’m starting with a stripped out shell from 1974 and backdating it to the earlier longhood look. (Backdated Porsche means to make it look older than it is). It’s not easy to build a car in a small garage but I hope to inspire other gearhead minded people like me to build something cool with DIY style.
In the first few episodes I will focus on the autobody metalwork to transform this junker into something fun to drive. Extensive metal fabrication is needed to give the body the wide and low stance that I'm looking for. Metal fab can be time consuming but its the detail that set each car project build apart from the rest. My classic Porsche strives to be unique with custom hotrod touches throughout. There will be some rust repair in the front trunk area including the infamous suspension pan...home fab style.
I plan to update weekly videos detailing the customization of my classic sports car. This is a low budget build so I plan to make many of the custom parts myself wherever possible. I hope you enjoy my car vlog that will hopefully become an autocross racer or track car someday.
Engine plans are 3.0L+ with individual throttle bodies ITB
Custom brakes and suspensions mods are also planned.
Please stay tuned for all updates on this project series.
Product and tools info at www.ahhgaragetime.com
My Classic Car Restoration Future Plans
I plan to modify the suspension and brakes with improved aftermarket parts from Elephant Racing and Tarett Engineering as money and time allows. Larger brakes from a late model Boxster will be used since this car didn’t come with any brakes and they seem to be the best bang for the buck. The engine will be from a later Porsche 911 to with at least 3.0 liters and I hope to use a custom individual throttle bodies with a modern injection system and software.
In other words, this build will be a mashup of all Porsche’s best years. The classic look of the early lightweight body with a more modern air-cooled drivetrain. Call it a restomod or hotrod if you like, but I’m going to make it my own with custom touches along the way. Please join me in this detailed restoration journey.
Porsche...there is no substitute
Visit my website at www.ahhgaragetime.com or
facebook at ahhgaragetime
Instagram at ahhgaragetime
Here’s a recommended book.
amzn.to/2HCD3BQ - Авто та транспорт
This is part 2 of my Suspension Pan Rust Repair Debacle. Here's part 1
ua-cam.com/video/RHk3--W7V0w/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching!
I'm getting ready (finally) to tackle this same project on my 74'...wish me luck!
916.5 - Thanks for letting me cheat off your high school test paper! Keep up the great work.
Ha ha, of course. I hope we get an A
Simple, but so precise! Excellent, and worth watching as usual.
Thanks Dave, Glad the dirty work is over!
you do very good work. Obviously you are a very good welder and metal fabricator. Guess this is more than necessary with vintage 911s. I can reflect looking at MGBs back in the day. Some people's idea of restoration was to rivet thin sheet metal from the floor pan up through the rockers. Next step was put bondo over the thin metal that extended past the rockers. The final step was spread some bondo over your work with an inch of undercoating. The seller of this car sold it as all new sheet metal. I guess he wasn't lying, but the first time on a lift, everything bent and cracked.
That repair method has been used on many Porsches too. Especially in the 80's before their values became astronomical. 356's we're just old heaps of junk in the 80's
Great job! I love your attention to detail. I coukd just imagine someone just welding the panel in with no measuring at all.
I agree, I think slapping these in is pretty common. I still need to level the pan using my spirit level technique. This will set the height of the front suspension points.
Tom this brings back old memorys your right new parts dont fit. My Porsche had tons of rust up front but after sweat and tears it was all worth it. New metal up front. Please keep it up can't wait to see what color you pick...
Thanks Brian! The sight of new metal is joyous for sure. Still taking it week by week, but I hope to have it all one color soon. (primer). I did get a drivers side flare, so I'm not waiting on parts anymore. 😀
Keep the videos coming.. your doing a great job of it all - Mike Australia!!
Thank you Mike! Cheers and thanks for watching!👍😀
What a challenge. Great work and thanks for sharing! Impressed!
Thanks for watching!
Thumbs up! I love the level of detail! Keep them videos coming!
Will do! Thanks.
Thanks for the informative vid. Will get started on mine tomorrow!
Awesome, be safe
Great Job Tom. Good to see math classes do translate to the real world.
Great work!
GREAT Work!
Thanks for watching!
Seems like (across most platforms) the replacement panels don't fit well. Everyone seems to accept it, because it's all that's available. I always wondered why they couldn't make them more accurate in the first place. You're doing God's work here making this stuff work! lol
On one hand we are grateful that something exists, on the other hand it wouldn't take much extra effort to improve.
I think part of the problem is the reality that tooling wears over time. That makes a moving target for vendors to duplicate with any authenticity.
Looks like you nailed the X and Y location, what about Z ? vertical.
Used a straight edge on the gas tank shelf
Not too bad a fit for a repro panel. In retrospect, would you have changed the panel and checked alignment dimensions before setting the gaps on the front sheetmetal? Excellent detail as always. I like the first person feel on your vids.
Never mind, I just watched your hood realignment video.
yep, you saw that coming. I really should have devoted more time to the front suspension points when I fixed the other suspension arm attachment points. I didn't align the forward suspension points because I new they would be cutout anyway. There are always lessons to be learned.😀
Im working on a 1968 with this same problem, and I understand the urge to keep everything original. but, this sheetmetal pan will be a problem again in 20 years. Why not have a aluminum casting made that picks up these suspension points, bolts in smartly, then have smaller sheetmetal pieces that fill the rest. After-market could make some cool 'Forever' solutions
I agree the design is bad, but with leak proof batteries now and some basic maintenance this should never rust again. Hint: Cavity wax👍
@@GarageTimeAutoResto this hits in the cajones. my dad is having his 63 super 90 done again because he refuses to fit a sealed battery. We bought him a 6V sealed AGM battery that he never installed because it doesnt look right. pft.
I put the seal on the tank. Much easier than trying to figure out where it goes on the inside of the trunk. I fit the tank in perfectly, but near the battery area it leaves a gap. Could provide further reason why it would rust in suspension pan. I will have to get some more weather stripping and fill in that little area.
Sounds like a good plan to me. I only put my tank in for a quick test fit to make sure it fit in the hole. It appeared to be fairly flat to the chassis, but then again I wasn't looking that carefully and there wasn't a seal. Are you done with all the metal replacement?
Yes, new pan has been fit and welded in place and rustproofed. Then fuel tank support was fit, welded and then rustproofed one more time. Now I'm just putting everything back together. Afterwards I will adjust height and then have the car aligned.
Awesome! Great job
How many hours would you say for removal, then how many hours to fit and position, then how long to complete the welding?
I probably spent 30 to 40 hours on this
So start to finish how many hours do you feel you have into it? Minus the time for videoing
Hard to say because I don't log hours. All I know is that it's about 8-10hours a week for a few years.
Do I need to re-install this additional piece that seems to be an extension on the battery side of the fuel tank support? It seems to make more of a flatter area for the battery than just the support. I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find anything like it for sale. Maybe the factory fabricated that piece themselves. I sent a picture of it to your email. I've cleaned up and rustoleumed the old piece. I suppose I could just weld it back in there.
Hi Shane, I left mine off, but I'm going to keep it. The original batteries were very large. Unless you are going for originality, todays smaller batteries don't need it in my opinion.
Thanks Tom. Ok, so I see that there is another bolt hole on the battery side of the fuel tank support. I did set my battery in there and it fits fine, but the FTS bolt hole seems to far forward and my interstate battery doesn't have a lip on it for a battery clampdown (The clampdown bracket that they sell may have been for an original style battery size w/lip?). How is the battery supposed to be secured in that area?
Mine was just set in there before and I just pushed stuff around it (ie: jack, air pump and a piece of wood) to keep it from moving).
Do you put the sticky side of the gas tank seal on the car or the gas tank?
Not sure, I haven't got that far yet. Maybe ask on the Pelican forum
What's a good place to get a tram gauge like that?
I got mine on ebay here:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FTram-Gauge-Suspension-Center-Post-Measuring-Auto-Body-Frame-Machine-Tool%2F362992661762%3Fepid%3D0%26hash%3Ditem54840c7502%3Ag%3AKhwAAOxy9tpR8cjv&campid=5338270888&toolid=10001&customid=
hi, nice vid! if you can send me a link where i van get mesurement diagrams like in your video (11:25) it will be very helpfull 4 my resto project!!! regards
They are in the workshop manuals. Email me if you need a copy. Goto the about tab in UA-cam
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thaks!! very good helpfull link for good books, i will buy some of them to get all infos i need!!!
The workshop manuals are out of print, so check ebay. Bentley manuals are good, check Amazon
@@GarageTimeAutoResto y are right, i get all porsche manuals from 1969 to 1989 in pdf (www.restoration-design.com) they are out of blue print drawings for marble and steel work. i will check this!!! My mail is y.bencharif@gmail.com will be very helpfull if y can scan the drawins that you have used in this video. very nice day, regards.
what size spot weld cutter did you use on the sus pan lower spot welds?
5/16" or 3/8" I think I bought this cheap set
amzn.to/2rHBtUH
Thanks, I got the fuel tank support out yesterday. 65 or more spot welds+additional surface welds. They really welded that piece in there. Now I have to move onto the suspension pan. I'm looking forward to getting that out.
Awesome Shane, yes there's a lot of welds there because it's part of the cars structural integrity. I showed in a later video that more welding on the seams does improve the cars strength, but you shouldn't have to worry about that.
So on the front of the pan (car) there are 2 rows of spot welds, 1 on the top of the overlap and 1 on the bottom. Do I need to drill out all of those spot welds or can it just be cut out leaving enough sheet metal to overlap the new pan to the front of the car. I know you cut yours out because you are installing a front mounted oil cooler, I'm not doing that.
Also, do I need to have my welder put as many plug welds in as there were spot welds or should he just going to lay a bead over those areas. I'm more so referring to the fuel tank support.
Yes, you have to remove both rows of spot welds on the front. I think the bumper might be in your way for the uppers, let me know. Yes your welder should plug weld all 65 holes you made,. Welding the seam is optional
replacement panels - never ever fit correctly. always need work to make them fit and always ridiculously overpriced. basically a rip off. every chance i get i make my own.
Awesome, I agree 💯
The replacement sections should be the same manufacturer, my Dansk pan and Porsche tow hook are not even close to fitting each other, the Dansk tank support is a one size fits all years, wrong for my 70T, got a correct fit RD to replace it with, in retrospect I should have bought all RD with the tow hook fitted to the pan, RD supplies the correct parts for different years as a complete kit, still kicking myself and wasting time with this Dansk rubbish
Sorry you had so much trouble. Unfortunately I've had repro parts that don't fit on one than more occasion. Even the RD pan for the car in this video had to be reworked where the gas tank supports welds on. The RD part was too rounded off and not as crisp as the factory one. This meant there wasn't a flat surface to spot weld too. Annoying, but better than starting from scratch I guess.