Perfect 3mm Door Gaps On This Porsche 911 Restoration Project
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2024
- Link for weld thru primer
amzn.to/2KZ1zcV
This week I continue with the metal work on my Porsche 911 restoration project. The last piece of the puzzle are the front fenders since all the other panels are aligned to the tub. Of course they don't fit perfectly. Watch the video to see how I improved the gaps and strive for 3mm.
This video series filmed in my home workshop highlights the technical details of my classic car restoration (An aircooled Porsche 911). I’m starting with a stripped out shell from 1974 and backdating it to the earlier longhood look. (Backdated Porsche means to make it look older than it is). It’s not easy to build a car in a small garage but I hope to inspire other gearhead minded people like me to build something cool with DIY style.
In the first few episodes I will focus on the autobody metalwork to transform this junker into something fun to drive. Extensive metal fabrication is needed to give the body the wide and low stance that I'm looking for. Metal fab can be time consuming but its the detail that set each car project build apart from the rest. My classic Porsche strives to be unique with custom hotrod touches throughout. There will be some rust repair in the front trunk area including the infamous suspension pan...home fab style.
I plan to update weekly videos detailing the customization of my classic sports car. This is a low budget build so I plan to make many of the custom parts myself wherever possible. I hope you enjoy my car vlog that will hopefully become an autocross racer or track car someday.
Engine plans are 3.0L+ with individual throttle bodies ITB
Custom brakes and suspensions mods are also planned.
Please stay tuned for all updates on this project series.
Product and tools info at www.ahhgaragetime.com
My Classic Car Restoration Future Plans
I plan to modify the suspension and brakes with improved aftermarket parts from Elephant Racing and Tarett Engineering as money and time allows. Larger brakes from a late model Boxster will be used since this car didn’t come with any brakes and they seem to be the best bang for the buck. The engine will be from a later Porsche 911 to with at least 3.0 liters and I hope to use a custom individual throttle bodies with a modern injection system and software.
In other words, this build will be a mashup of all Porsche’s best years. The classic look of the early lightweight body with a more modern air-cooled drivetrain. Call it a restomod or hotrod if you like, but I’m going to make it my own with custom touches along the way. Please join me in this detailed restoration journey.
Porsche...there is no substitute
Visit my website at www.ahhgaragetime.com or
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Here’s a recommended book.
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Stripped Shell Introduction
Porsche 911 Longhood Conversion Project Car (Hotrod Build) • Porsche 911 Longhood C...
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Drivers Fender Backdate, Unfold short hood edge, Make Signal Box Parts From Flat Sheet
Backdating My Porsche 911, Front Fender Backdate Begins Now!
• Backdating My Porsche ...
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for watching! Each panel has its own challenges, but the alignment technique is similar. Here's a link to the decklid video:
ua-cam.com/video/xvqSVX80zJM/v-deo.html
Here's the link to the hood/frunk video:
ua-cam.com/video/6yWs9XshwOE/v-deo.html
I am in southern california and putting together a 1970 911T…had rear end damage requiring rear cross member replacement and 2 rear quarter panel repairs plus front suspension pan replacement. Your videos have given me confidence and reference points as I move ahead! Thanks
Awesome, sounds like a cool project. Remember, it's only metal😃
Greetings from Finland. These panel gap videos are so interesting. Thanks for that. I have done that job so many times. But never seen that in UA-cam. I like to see more of, welding technic when you add metal to the gaps. Welding mashine settings for example. And more about metal planishing techniques. Keep on going 👍
Thank you. I hope to visit FInland someday. Looks beautiful. Have a look at the video below regarding welding:
ua-cam.com/video/t2xomaxWhFc/v-deo.html
I'll add more detail on the next video about my welding machine and its settings. I'm happy to hear someone is interested in more detail, because this channel is all about technical details!
I'm enjoying your project and especially appreciate your problem solving skills.
Brian Shea Thanks for watching! This car has an abundance of problems. I'm very relieved that the nightmares of accident damage are now behind me. I know the suspension points are good, but to have all the panels fitting now is a huge sigh of relief. The driver's side won't be as bad!
Thanks for your comment. The best I have is this video here:
ua-cam.com/video/1Z7Jm7HLQmg/v-deo.html
I squared up the chassis before I decided to start this youtube channel. I don't think I have any pictures of the wrecked sections, but I will look. I made an elaborate tram guage setup and leveled my garage floor with homemade spirit levels. Its too bad I don't have video because it was really satisfying straightening it out. I will make a future video regarding the floor pan because it still has a few dents in it. I can also show some of the repairs I did to the inner longitudinal.
I think this car ran off the road and hit a tree or an embankment. To give you an idea how bad it was, I bought the car for $4000 as a roller with non-salvaged title. No engine or trans.
Thanks for the primer info. I haven't needed any yet and didn't know which one would be good.
for anyone interested in an alternative kick-ass weld through primer: wurth zink rich weld through primer. i'm in no way affiliated, it's just a seriously good product that i use.
Thanks for that! Wurth does make good products. I'm not affiliated with like 90 either but it does work.
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Thanks! Glad to have you here!
Good video. However, this may be the way to go where the beauty has met with devastating body damages. If you can find it there is a Porsche document in their Training manual published circa 1971, for Group B body. It outlines many of the gaps one should maintain. Please note that the predominant gap specification is 4mm, but not 3mm. If your subject has not sustained severe damages, the alignment of the doors plays a major role to get things right. The door shell and weatherstrip flange gap is to me maintained @ 9mm. Adding extra metal on to the door shell or the front fender ear may not be necessary IMHO. Good luck. These beauties are getting rare by the day.
Thanks for the comment and research. By all means buy the best accident free car you can afford. However, All the premier Porsche shops in socal use brute force on these cars. I know several of them quite well.
tom - have you considered bronze tig for the panel adjustments? less heat = less distortion, softer = much easier to shape. goes on quick and saves you the hassle of messing about with lead.
The melting temp of bronze is much higher than lead and can't be worked. No distortion with lead if only used on edges.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto y, lead has a much lower melt point - i was comparing to tig.
Oh, I see. Your talking about the fender edge that I added a little bead to with the TIG. Yes, Silicon Bronze would be good for that. I wish it came it smaller diameter. I have some 1/16" but didn't use it. Maybe next time.
The wing gets put on the fender first..and then tacked to the body, Thats how Porsche did it. Not wing to the body then try and get the fender to line up
Wow just one fender can require a lot of details, planning and work. Other side fender should be a bit easier now that you have more experience on this one. It's looking better and better, keep on going!
Yes the other side will be easier for sure. Thanks for your nice comments and encouragement. The other side wasn't wrecked either! I feel like this week was a big milestone!
Ok, thanks.
The seam welding video.
The seam sealer/paint or whatever coating is between the metal does cause problems. I wire brush as deep as I can then go for it with the MIG welder. I turn up the heat and let the junk burn out. The first 1/4" or so of the weld is messy, but I just keep going. If I see porosity, then I grind it out and touch up with the TIG. Use an exhaust fan. It's smokey!
Great to see the bodywork, takes time to getting it right. what kind of colour do you want to paint it?
Hi Marc, I'm not 100% decided. Probably a period correct solid color from Porsche. Maybe a grey, tan or bahama yellow is a favorite.
Bin here l know what your going through it took me 13years to get my 75 911 Carrara straight.. Keep up with the vids
Thank you Brian, Yes its a labor of love for sure.
How when you strip your metal, are you able to keep the seam sealer between the panels from contaminating your weld?
Are you asking about the seam welding video or something in this door gap video?
Hello, i will atart a 912 restoration project, this will be the first time doing some like this, i will need lots of help on this, an first i need advice, do you recomendó to do full sand blast in and out or only inside, and soda blast outside?
Awesome Enrique! Dive in but be cautious at the same time. Every stripping method has its cons. This is how I did it.
ua-cam.com/video/U3Cqdiywe54/v-deo.html
But my car wasn't very rusty either. If you have rust then blasting may make sense.
I was trying get my wife to sell her Mustang, so I’d have room in the garage for a Porsche, but then she said, I should sell one of the other three cars I already have in there...
So whatcha got?
Garage Time - Auto Resto in the garage? Two Ford Maverick Grabbers, a 28 Model A pickup, and my wife’s 2014 Mustang GT...but I’ve always wanted a 911.
Sounds like a tough dilemma. I don't want to create any sellers remorse for you. Great collection by the way. Adding a P car would definitely disrupt your Ford pattern.
You wanted your wife to sell her Mustang, and keep * TWO * mediocre Ford Mavericks, and a Model A pickup.
Dave, you're damn selfish. What do you love more, your wife or your cars?