I have one just like this with the original owners manual. The manual has the same procedure you went through except it emphasized the importance of using Loctite 242 on the short screws that hold the gear assy to the motor case making sure they are tight. If they vibrate lose you can damage the gear assy. Thanks for a good video.
Thank you and very informative. I have a late 90's Sawzall 6517-20 (corded 7.5 amp) that's seen light use over the years. With the help of your video, I was able to disassemble, inspect and reassemble the saw. Ironically, the grease wasn't even contaminated, discolored or hardened...so I just repacked the bearings and swivel before reassembly. Interestingly, the cutting guide and boot do not come off the way it's depicted in this video and so I just pealed back the boot and left it together.
If you don't grease it you will end up ruining the bearing and wobble shaft assembly, learned the hard way, ...I do this every two years as it comes back home from being loaned out.
Yes very helpful as mine is in my garage right not apart because I wanted to repair it nothing online talking about how much grease to put in or pictures.
great video. I just inherited one of these from my father in-law and was surprised how hot it got and how bad it cut vs. my cheap (now broken) harbor freight sawzall. Opened er' up and sure enough black gooey sludge is oozing everywhere. Don't really have the time to get the actual milwaukee grease so I'm going to have to find something at the parts store.
Update when you get it done. I don't use this as much as I used to after getting a cordless saw. When I'm doing a lot of demo I'll pull it out and it's still going strong.
I recommend you download the correct parts list for this from Milwaukee. My 6507 calls for: 2-l /2 Oz. Type “B” Lubricant - Gear Case l/2 Oz. Type “A” Lubricant - Bearing Plate/Intermediate Gear Type "B" only comes in a 1 lb size now. Milwaukee also has a grease chart that shows what type each model uses. I believe that is too much and the wrong type. (should be type "B"
I had one that I got 20 years ago motor burned out funny thing is my Porter cable 629 6-speed tiger saw from 1994 still works. And I want though like 2 more reciprocating saws after that Milwaukee I had a 6505 that I got a year after my Porter cable tiger saw I could have just repaired it it easy to just buy a DeWalt 18 v reciprocating saw at the time. Cheaper I was already in that platform replace the armature and the field would have been more money than my DeWalt at time I don't think people will say that about Porter Cable nowadays that will last that long this one's still going strong almost 28 years I must ended up with messed up one
Andrew Browner that is generally true but in this application any excess Greece will be flung to the out side of the case so 'the bigger the gob the better the job'.
@@laddydiy6691 Yeah, seems a bit excessive. The grease does have a factor to play in heat dissipation so you need more than a smear, but this is at the point where it's adding resistance.
Will this generally work for all reciprocating saws? I inherited my dad's after he passed 3 years ago. It's a Sears Craftsmen. I really only use it to shake up my spray paint cans as I'm spray paint artist. But I'd rather not burn this out and have to get rid of it as it was my dad's. Instruction manual is woefully lacking
I would think so if you are having problems with it overheating and the grease leaking out. I dont know if it would have long term problems because of the shaking but being that the spray cans dont weigh much you should probably be okay. I'm not positive that they all have this mechanism though, new ones are definitely different than the old ones.
Mine got warm like that, and then it lost power and got intermittent, then stopped working. Continuity if cord seems good, switch seems good, brushes seem good. Any ideas?
Milwaukee type a grease. Although I would think any high temp wheel bearing grease would work. www.milwaukeetool.com/Products-Repository/North-America/Accessories/Miscellaneous/Lubricants/49-08-0800
I have one just like this with the original owners manual. The manual has the same procedure you went through except it emphasized the importance of using Loctite 242 on the short screws that hold the gear assy to the motor case making sure they are tight. If they vibrate lose you can damage the gear assy. Thanks for a good video.
Thank you and very informative. I have a late 90's Sawzall 6517-20 (corded 7.5 amp) that's seen light use over the years. With the help of your video, I was able to disassemble, inspect and reassemble the saw. Ironically, the grease wasn't even contaminated, discolored or hardened...so I just repacked the bearings and swivel before reassembly. Interestingly, the cutting guide and boot do not come off the way it's depicted in this video and so I just pealed back the boot and left it together.
If you don't grease it you will end up ruining the bearing and wobble shaft assembly, learned the hard way, ...I do this every two years as it comes back home from being loaned out.
Do the second step first. That will fix the boot removal issue. The black boot has two holes for that reason.
Thank You very much... only Tool I have from My passed Dad... now I know how to grease it... 👍
Thanks man,it’s kinda insane how little info there is on this
Yes very helpful as mine is in my garage right not apart because I wanted to repair it nothing online talking about how much grease to put in or pictures.
Thanks for posting! You're right, videos showing how to do this are hard to find.
Illinois Troy thanks for watching hope it helped you.
Using a rigid to repair a Milwaukee...both excellent tools.
eric hemard haha ya not of the same vintage but now they are both made under the same 'roof' can't beat lsa on the rigid.
great video. I just inherited one of these from my father in-law and was surprised how hot it got and how bad it cut vs. my cheap (now broken) harbor freight sawzall. Opened er' up and sure enough black gooey sludge is oozing everywhere. Don't really have the time to get the actual milwaukee grease so I'm going to have to find something at the parts store.
Update when you get it done. I don't use this as much as I used to after getting a cordless saw. When I'm doing a lot of demo I'll pull it out and it's still going strong.
I recommend you download the correct parts list for this from Milwaukee. My 6507 calls for: 2-l /2 Oz. Type “B” Lubricant - Gear Case
l/2 Oz. Type “A” Lubricant - Bearing Plate/Intermediate Gear
Type "B" only comes in a 1 lb size now. Milwaukee also has a grease chart that shows what type each model uses. I believe that is too much and the wrong type. (should be type "B"
I had one that I got 20 years ago motor burned out funny thing is my Porter cable 629 6-speed tiger saw from 1994 still works. And I want though like 2 more reciprocating saws after that Milwaukee I had a 6505 that I got a year after my Porter cable tiger saw I could have just repaired it it easy to just buy a DeWalt 18 v reciprocating saw at the time. Cheaper I was already in that platform replace the armature and the field would have been more money than my DeWalt at time I don't think people will say that about Porter Cable nowadays that will last that long this one's still going strong almost 28 years I must ended up with messed up one
tip: dont get carried away with the grease, more is not better use the least you think it will take to lubricate everything
Andrew Browner that is generally true but in this application any excess Greece will be flung to the out side of the case so 'the bigger the gob the better the job'.
its milwuakee shes gonna give er hell no matter what, but a little dab will do yah ;)
laddy diy you put the same amount that I just found in my new one.
@@laddydiy6691 Yeah, seems a bit excessive. The grease does have a factor to play in heat dissipation so you need more than a smear, but this is at the point where it's adding resistance.
Will this generally work for all reciprocating saws? I inherited my dad's after he passed 3 years ago. It's a Sears Craftsmen. I really only use it to shake up my spray paint cans as I'm spray paint artist. But I'd rather not burn this out and have to get rid of it as it was my dad's. Instruction manual is woefully lacking
I would think so if you are having problems with it overheating and the grease leaking out. I dont know if it would have long term problems because of the shaking but being that the spray cans dont weigh much you should probably be okay. I'm not positive that they all have this mechanism though, new ones are definitely different than the old ones.
Mine got warm like that, and then it lost power and got intermittent, then stopped working. Continuity if cord seems good, switch seems good, brushes seem good. Any ideas?
Does the motor turn at all? Any smoke or smell? You sure the outlet works? Just basics at first.
Englehard Dinglefester
Need new brushes and armature cleaned
Why don't u put a little grease in there!
Can you tell me exact name of grease that you used for this ?
Milwaukee type a grease. Although I would think any high temp wheel bearing grease would work. www.milwaukeetool.com/Products-Repository/North-America/Accessories/Miscellaneous/Lubricants/49-08-0800