Thanks for watching, Let me know if you have attempted this video on your ice maker, and weather it helped at all. Hit that like button if you liked the video, or it was helpful for you also. Have a great day!!
Awesome, I had already pulled it all apart and fixed a broken circuit, but it still wasn't working. After watching your video though, I was able to know for sure that the heater was going bad also, so thanks!
Greg, just to let you know, I received my new module today and I replaced the old one with your video instructions, now my ice maker is making ice once again. I can’t thank you enough and it only cost me $35.00 from Amazon. 😊
Greg great Job on explaining how to troubleshoot ice maker. So far your the only one who has shown how to do this. I learned a couple things I wasn’t aware of. I’m honing to check my refrigerator now. Thanks again. David
Thanks for the video! Helped me diagnose mine. You could get it to cycle by t to h, but wouldn't intiate the water valve. L to v would run the valve though. What I found was 1 of the contacts that extend through to the slides on the back of the big gear was broken. Ordered a new ice maker.
Thank you Greg, second time pulling the ice maker after seeing your video I decided I needed to inspect contact points under the cover and wala there it was. Over time moisture caused the heater terminal in the inside of the cover to arch and burn eventually causing it to😀 short and stop working. You Did a nice job of identifying ALL the test points on the exterior cover. Again thank you, everything got a good inspection and cleaning also. Jayme
Bro, y lo arreglaste, de mi igual se cortocircuito, me podés explicar más a profundidad, con el conector de la cubierta te refieres al módulo, a la resistencia?
Thank You !!!!! I just installed a new ice maker for my Mother and it was doing nothing. I watched 30 install and trouble shooting videos and waited and waited. Now I got the whole kit which included new water valve , box , lever , everything. I would probably be knee deep in water trying to change the water valve if you had not explained the internal thermostat. I had washed the tray out with very hot water before I installed it so that may have made it take a little longer to get going. Your video gave me the patience to wait and now it seems to be working. It is full of water now and my fingers are crossed that it will just work fine now. Thanks again.
Thanks so much for making this video! My only regret is not finding it sooner! My ice maker is getting too much water, creating a layer of ice on top of cubes. This must occur after dumping the cubes, as they are free immediately after dumping. Another video on here explained it may be the inlet valve and/or the filter assembly. Then another pointed to the defrost thermostat. After replacing all these at considerable expense and no fix, I found your video. My next step is to adjust the amount of water into the area. Hope it works! Thanks again!
Totally awesome video on ice maker you help me troubleshoot my ice maker on my Whirlpool identical ice maker turns out I'm going to have to get a new ice maker I guess but thank you so much for your video
Thank you so much! I was able to diagnose my ice maker and only need a new arm. Once I removed the modulator and turned the arm holder it began working…. So I don’t need a whole new ice maker. Keep up the great work!
Ok so I have been trying to relate to is to test individual components. Many videos out there on just testing of the points with out taking it apart. I needed to know how they get the values on certain individual parts. Thank you and thank you for taking the time👍🏼
Great detailed video Greg. Thank's for doing it. When I checked the resistance values they were way lower than they should have been. New ice maker on order!
What a fantastic and educational video. Greg, you were very thorough, informative and easy to understand. Thank you so much for sharing. Now I have at least some information to try and fix my ice maker. I think I’ll try replacing the module first after I reset it and it won’t work. My problem is the ejector fingers are freezing in the water. It got out of sync somehow. 😊
Thanks for the great video. I have a Kitchenaid KSR225ILWHo2 Side by Side which is about 20 years old. The ice had just stopped. I have to remove the unit to try the jumper test and the motor did not turn. Taking the entire unit to my bench, I discovered the motor resistance was 4400 Ohm not 8000 so I assumed this was the issue. There were no other issues I could see or test results bad. I replaced the entire section 106626640 using part Supco IMM8366. ($25 Amazon). The new motor had resistance 8200 Ohm. I was stumped when I hooked up the new unit and jumpered the HT I still could not get it to turn. My unit has in LED ice level and this tested fine. I held both switches and the unit would not turn. As a last effort I just installed the unit, hooked everything up and to my amazement it started producing ice in about 20 min. I am very happy of course with the repair but am stumped on why this worked. I was ready to take the unit out and start the entire diagnostic test using the board but didn't need to do this. Maybe a video on how to do this for us non expert home repairers. Thanks again for the great video and taking time for us repair wannabes!
Thanks for watching Mark Confer, thats great you got it going. Sometimes I find after everything is installed I have to reset the whole system, usually i do this by unplugging the fridge for a couple min and plugging back in. I dont know why this works but it seems to reset everything and then everything works as it should.
Thank you for the great video. I liked you didn’t rush your talking so one can understand and able to follow your reasoning. I’d like to suggest to you explore more troubleshooting the inlet water valve to the ice maker. Also you mentioned regarding the feeding pipe frozen but didn’t explore troubleshooting it. I have a frozen pipe that feeds the ice maker. What’s the cause?
Thanks for watching imadbedros, your very welcome, that was one of my first videos so I was panicking a little that it was way too long do some things got cut. I just came out with a video on a ge fridge where I just diagnose the water system. With the frozen pipe it's very difficult because these ice makers go in hundreds of different fridges, which all have different fill systems, some actually have in tube heaters you can buy for this issue.
Great video. Very detailed. Thanks for taking the time to produce it. The music in the background was distracting to me however. I had to keep rewatching it to understand what you were saying.
Hey man, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I'm used to the little metal set screw, so 10:40 for anyone looking for the water fill screw....
@@Thomasappliance Maybe you'll know the answer to this. So the water flow is slow on my Kenmore elite side-by-side. Its probably the filter. If I just remove the filter, will the ice make and dispenser still work? I lost the filter cap, but can still remove the filter.
Than you Greg. Your presentation here is excellent. Actually, it is very calming with your voice and nice background music. I just replaced the Whirlpool icemaker in my Kenmore fridge and I couldn't resist dissecting the old one to learn about what makes it tick. What led me here is the new one is not working and I am trying to learn as much as I can to troubleshoot the reason. The water valve works as I disconnected it from the fridge and jumped it with 120V. The solenoid actuated and the icemaker water tray filled. I am at a loss as to why it is still not working.
Thanks for the tips. Mine just stopped making ice, pulled ice maker and the fill cup was frozen. Defrosted that, put back ice maker but still no ice. Watched your video and the jumper portion appeared to fix my problem. Removed jumper Mine has a black housing with one wire coming into it that plugs into the portion that was jumpered. Motor turned and water filled ice tray. Hopefully it will continue to work!
Thanks for watching, yes the water adjustment screw does move, I talked about it in the video briefly, will definitely want to see what I say, it's a very fine adjustment.
Holy Smoke! Your video is so thorough that I just got a part-time gig repairing ice makers at a high-end appliance store! Lol. I am going to check your other videos! It's a euphoric feeling to know how to troubleshoot problems! Very informative! Mine made the ice, but it's not dumping them. It's the heater, but I tested it. It's around 73...so good. If I reset it manually and it rotates the dial, the arms move down and dump the ice. So...what's next?
Thanks for watching dentistmomchef, lol thank you. I would check the mold, a lot of them were known to peel, when it looses its slipperyness the ice dont seem to want to come out.
Hi Greg since last time I watched your video I took out my ice maker out, Kenmore model 106.58422700, I removed the cover off, the shot off arm then I looked for any corrosion did not see any then I removed the cam arms then aha moment happened 🤔 there were contactors with heavy arch buildups. Once I sanded them the contact surfaces it worked like a charm. Thanks again for your time and a great video.
i took off the front cover and saw the same discoloration/burn on the main power line. so i replaced the entire unit, jump started it and it worked!… for a couple cycles. then it stopped working again. i pulled the cover off the new unit and the same electrical burn had happened in the same spot? what could be causing this?
Thanks for watching cameronbremer, when it comes to electrical systems, anything could cause that to happen. Whether a wire is shorted, or the house wiring is causing an over current situation.
My Whirlpool fridge stopped dispensing water and ice. After all kinds of searching it was the filter. The pin on the end of the filter (water inlet/outlet end) was too long. IT works the bypass(?). Anyway, I trimmed off 1/16 of an inch and solved my problem. On another video people where c/o the same thing and someone said trimming the pin worked for him and it worked for me......after going through a whole lot of other items. Loads of people are having problems with the filters fitting properly. Good luck and thanks for all the suggestions.
Thank you for this thorough video. My issue is the over filling of the ice tray, and your description of the little turny thing has helped me to figure it out. Only thing is I had already turned that piece and was not keeping track of my rotations, so now I’ll have to watch and wait!
Easily the best icemaker video on UA-cam. Thank you. My icemaker will attempt to cycle manually, but cannot budge the ice, so my suspicion is a bad heater, but I will also pull the module and check the points just in case. And now I know how to test the resistance on the heater. On my second icemaker, probably about to be a third.
Word to the wise. Replace the whole unit. The tray coating wears and pits. If power is at the head and you jump to make it cycle and it does not. Replace the unit. Very informative video.
Hi, good job explaining how the ice maker works...I believe you forgot to mention is to make sure the fridge is level, or water might spill into the bucket.
Hi there, excelent explaining. I did all that in my whirlpool french type fridge. Everything inculuding water valve is good. The only problem is that water is not coming in ice maker. By the way when filling manually and test with jump wire ice maker works good. Therefore kindly tell how to make water come to ice maker.
couldnt thank you enough... my motor was working but it read 50ish ohms. i didnt believe it so i took three mm's out... turns out it was @ 55ish ohms. ordering a new unit, wish me luck!
Great video! My ice maker that is identical to yours works except the shut off arm would go up and stay up until I manually pull it down. What should I check for?
@@aaronguerrero4753 its probably easier to take the whole ice maker out and see whats going on. Just be careful putting it back in that everything goes back where it belongs.
@@Thomasappliance I took the ice maker apart as recommended. it turned out the plastic inside that holds the arm was not set correctly. Your video shows how it should look and used as guide to reset my piece . Thanks for the awesome video , I just hope the ice maker continues to work after I put it back together , if not I'll be in touch
Nice video Greg - thank you. This confirms that my ice maker mechanism is working properly. My problem seems to be ice build up in the fill tube (mine doesn't have a funnel). This has happened several times and it results in water running down the insides of the refrigerator and out onto the floor. Any ideas what could cause the fill tube to become blocked with ice? I'm wondering if the fill valve might not be closing completely, thereby allowing a trickle to flow constantly.
GREAT video !! very comprehensive... I learned a lot ... especially taking apart mechanism and mentioning what each "test hole" is for including resistance and voltage if there is any. Sure don't want to purchase a new (expensive) part only to find out the problem was somewhere else. I wish I could find electrical schematics for this and other appliances; it would sure make troubleshooting so much easier.
The wire will bypass the heater, so it might get a little warm but I would wait until the arms are just about down to feel for heat. Be careful it is pretty hot.
Good info! Other things; 1- Ice tray lost coating 2-Ice maker not level 3-Heater draws most amps and connectors burn, clean, tighten retry w/dielectric grease 4-If add or changing filter, flush 3-4 minutes. Active carbon comes out and hold water valve open, blow air from supply thru valve 5-Calcium, Lime, Magnesium or rust (Well) can keep seal open. Add filter for house, change to city 6- Fittings are “Shark-Bite” type, push in, pull line out to service. 7- Buy extra filter, store next to ice box 8- Ice kits are sold buy left over inventory as repair shops close= deals 9-If trays corrode and cube stick, buy water softener to install before hot water heater, leave hose & irrigation before softener = waste. Yard doesn’t care about minerals, car paint does, so pick carefully with plumber. Thanks kindly for the video info. Digital Volt-Ohm meters are cheaper & better. Wear rubber gloves I working with voltage! Unsure, call pro!
When it comes to overheating it can be as simple as a loose connection, if the thermostat shorted out and wasn't working properly the heater could stay on, the ice maker or fridge could of had a surge and blew wires.
The ice maker used depends on the fridge model number. there's hundreds of different icemakers. Just use your model number to figure out which one is used
Thanks for your video Greg. I have a question about the input voltage. It measures zero on my icemaker. Is there a fuse inline for this input voltage. I seem to remember that there is an inline fuse in the 120 volt wiring harness. Can you let me know if there is. Thanks, Dave K
It sounds like maybe it's not getting enough water so possibly a faulty water valve. Or if the cubes are fine but it doesn't make ice fast enough, the temp in freezer could be not cold enough.
Hi I have a U line icemaker and for some reason the ice is sticking to the tray not allowing the arm to turn, I ve tested the resistance and gave me 330 ohms, how do I know if is good or not? Thank you
@Thomasappliance yes the tray itself was chipping away and build up calcium, I sanded all off and apply epoxy paint special for food, just to cover the whole tray and prevent it from sticking, I ll see if it works, thank you
Is it cold enough to produce ice ? As I told you, I need to replace the digital system in a WHIRPOOL for an analog one and was worried about how to keep the ice maker producing ice without any refrigerant gas pipe going into its system. So, that means that the only thing I have to worry about is to have the voltage, and the water....am I right ? Thanks for your fast response, I will be waiting again for this question. Thanks and I am following you to get all your great explanations. Ramon Perera, Miami
I'm not sure I completely understand, what digital system are you replacing for a analog one? The ice maker won't run if it's not cold enough in the freezer, hopefully that's what your asking.
@@Thomasappliance Thanks again for responding....I am trying to convert a digital WHIRLPOOL WRF555SDFZ08 to analog, because the board has failed more than once, and you know they are expensive.. This model has the freezer in the bottom part and the ice maker on the upper part of the machine...so it is difficult for me to understand that only the cold air from the bottom will make the ice maker to work. Understand that I am new in this field and always thought there was a gas pipe going to the ice maker. To have this clear will allow me to start the whole system, including the ice maker just by having 120 volts and not using any low voltages from the digital board. The same if the motors in the dispenser work with 120, it would be just a matter of changing connections. I know maybe it is not the best thing to do, but I do not want to spend any more money in a very sofisticated system. What I need is to have cold water and ice. Thanks for your patience and understanding. Continue being GREAT, Greg....Love what you are doing for us.
Hello Greg I agree with the comments I see great video. I have a whirlpool domestic refrigerator with ice maker in my RV. The units has worked great for two years up until I went to winterize it a couple days ago and now the water valve does not seem to be filling/opening. My question is does this thermostat that will not let the icemaker work until it gets down to 0 interrupt power to the test terminal L? I was not getting 110v at L but I was reading something like 58v. I am using a good fluke meter.
Thanks for watching John Howell! I would check at the wiring coming into ice maker if there is 120v there then the icemaker inside has resistance and will need to be changed, if you get the same voltage you had before you know the board that supplies power to the ice maker is bad.
Thanks for answering so fast,,,,but the one I am changing is the main board on the back. I have the sticker with NO CODE number. That's whay I am looking for what to do now. I watched a video where the technician does not reprogram the unit after replacing the main board, so I am confused if I have to do it or not. Please let me know. Thanks again, Ramon, Miami
That is a very good news. This unit only has the back board plus the control panels in front, maybe that's why there is no CODE NUMBER on the sticker. You can't imagine how much I do appreciate your answer. As I said before, you are GREAT Greg. you are more than helping us. You deserve our respect and consideration. I will continue following you wherever you go. Thanks and have a great day. Ramon.@@Thomasappliance
Thank you for this great video! The ice maker in my refrigirator was not working when I moved in my apt and I didn't bother to fix then! Today, I decided to try to fix it, but no luck! This ice maker doesn't have those two holes to use the jumper wire. My guess is that there is power issue. Maybe the inlet valve? Please advise. The refrigirator model is: General Electric GTH18XCT2RWW
On that model you can hold in the door switch and push the panel just on the bottom of the ice maker in 3 times and then let go of the door switch, this will force the unit into manual cycle. If it doesn't run you can check for power to ice maker. If there is power but it won't run you will have to replace ice maker. But before doing all that make sure there is no off switch somewhere that turns the ice maker off. Thanks for watching Saeed Hasanzadeh
Hello Greg. Question. My ice maker is identical to this one. what it's started to do is Freeze up I guess. If you leave it in the on position it cycles normally. If you turn it off or goes w/o cycling for awhile, say the bin is full , when it cycles again, it struggles very hard to push the ice out. The motor just sits there and creaks as it trys to push out the ice. I actually had to defrost w/ a hair dryer to get it going the last time. Heater ohms ck fine. Thoughts ? Thanks.
Thanks for watching Monteric!, the mold that the water sits in can build up with calcium causing it to stick, or the mold can peel which I've seen too. Both would cause the heater to not be as affective also.
Greg- thanks! You have no idea how helpful your video has been! In these cases, do you replace just the tray, the heater or whole icemaker? Thanks again!
The metal arm is just a switch which will connect a path of electricity between power and neutral when the arm is down. The only solenoid in the system is the water valve, which is 120v.
Great informative video, thank you if I want to remove the ice maker and not replace it, do I need to seal the electric socket, or I can keep it exposed.
My ice maker had visible white powder and cooper deterioration where one of the pins from main unit plugs into the power connection on the ice maker module. I wire brushed cleaned, used needle nose pliers to reposition slightly the remaining cooper to make contact with pin when two parts are put back together. 24 hours later ice tray is filled and it's working fine so far.
So if the motor is running, the ice removal fingers are turning, the freezer is cold enough?? My GFs ice maker isn't working. I have already replaced the water valve and checked the water tube for being frozen, still no ice. I'm thinking the ice maker itself is bad. Could a bad control module cause no water flow to the ice maker?? The ice maker works in every way but water flowing to it. I can pour water into the tray and it will make ice. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Great video!! Iven tried to watch some other ice maker videos, yours is by far the most info filled.
Thanks for watching stephenhood, a board can cause issues with an ice maker but thats not usually the case. I would put the icemaker into harvest and climb behind the fridge and when the ice maker should be calling for water check for power to the valve.
@@Thomasappliance Thank you for the reply. Your video does explain where the board needs to be to send a water valve signal. When I get over her place I will watch it again and see where it needs to be to signal the water valve. Thanks again!!!
what is the effect on the heater operation if the test indicates 92 ohms? my icemaker will make and eject ice one time after resetting using the TH jumper, refills tray, but then won't eject again. any suggestions?
It manually turns on the heater, the heater turning on starts the cycle, so next time it needs to eject the heater is not turning on. So either the heater, or thermostat, or possibly wiring is the issue.
@@Thomasappliance thank YOU! Definitely helped me with my ice maker. I did not think to jump T and H to get it to cycle. Thing had somehow lost its way, had a valve issue a little while ago, sorted that out but then the darn thing refused to cooperate. Your video was just what I needed to understand the whole thing. Right to the point all killer no filler.
Hi Greg mine does not have all these testing point (L,M,H...etc..). but some pins sticking out the head. are these pins correspond to L,M etc.... and I dont get 120 volt to the water valve.. any sugesstions ?
@@hamidkashi7778 I'm not sure about the one you have but I think I've seen ones like that and the only testing you can do is through the electrical system and a schematic.
What would be the cause of no voltage at L and N? We've purchased a new ice maker, thinking that the old one was bad, but we have no power coming in to the unit. Is there an inline fuse somewhere? Thanks!
Thanks for watching deaniespikes, make sure you check for voltage there with the door switch held closed, if no power at l and n I would checkbto see if there is power to the icemaker.
@@Thomasappliance I finally tested each wire of the 4-pin cable for continuity. The black wire, the one with the thermal fuse embedded in it, had no continuity. I replaced the cable, and it now works fine!
Hi GReg! Here again asking for help. If I change the board on my WHIRLPOOL WRF555SDFZ would I need to reporgramm it or not ? I watched a video about this but talking about a CODE to do it that should be in the label,,,,but my machine has not such a code, so I don't know what to do. Pleas, if you have some idea regarding this subject let me know please. Thanks in advance, Ramon from Miami.
If you are changing the jazz board, which is the one right in your face when you open the door, yes you have to program the board. The code will be written on the model and serial number sticker.
Thanks for watching johnharris, some fridges have made heaters on the incoming fill tube that you can get. Most of the other ones its just poor design.
Thanks for watching Robert Dawson, the heater resistance should be 72ohms almost always, if the number is that high its not within the 10% allowable fluctuation. The mold can also be peeling inside which doesn't let the cubes slide out easily. I would say you are probably going to have to change the whole ice maker assembly. You can also check between t and h, which should be a reading of 0 ohms if thermostat is closed, or infinite if the thermostat is open.
Thanks for watching user-ddss7dz4y, are you putting the leads into T and H? If there is humming from behind fridge it would mean the water valve is activating. Is the icemaker filling?
If it is raised thats how you shut it off and it will stay like that, until you lower the arm manually to turn it back on. Thanks for watching Daniel Rodriguez.
@@Thomasappliance I'll explain it to you, it makes ice but when the cycle ends the lever stays up it doesn't go down so it continues making ice I have to go and lower it I don't know if you understand
@@lolobong ok I see, I would check and make sure the arm is in the head properly, if it is then there is a piece in the head that while turning lets it fall back down. So you might have to take apart the head and see if its fixable or is something broken inside.
Can you actuate the water valve from the V test point on the front of the head? My refrigerator is a Maytag about 10 years old. I’ve never replaced the ice maker. Good video!
Thanks for watching pmscalisi, I'm not 100% sure, I wouldn't try it personally. I activate a cycle, wait for the end when it should be activating the valve and see if there is 120v to water valve when it's calling for water.
Sounds like its a little too cold in the ice maker section, or the mold has a coating on it and it is worn off, causing the ice to stick. Thanks for watching Dillan Clymer.
Thanks for the video! Question for you - my ice maker will run if I jumper it, but once it goes through the cycle, the fingers hit a spot where it just stops. Again, if I jumper it, it will work (motor turns the fingers, heater turns on and allows the ice to break from the mold and be moved, and the fingers make their way around and harvest the cubes. Then it fills with water, but the fingers stop and won't move again to harvest the ice unless I jumper it. Any idea what might be the issue?
Thanks for watching Chris A, it sounds like either something electrically is wrong in the head or the thermostat isn't sensing as it should. There can also be an issue with the board that controls the ice maker but not usually the problem.
Hey Greg, I replace my ice maker all the power is correct at all test points but it will not trigger an auto fill with water. I can manually fill it by jumping but it won’t do it automatic even after a full cycle of the motor
Thanks for watching davidlyles2737, its inside the head but it more or less tells you weather its cold enough for the ice maker to make ice, if it makes ice then it is working fine. You can test between L and M and the resistance should be between 4400 and 8800 ohms.
Thanks for watching jimidean corncracker, yes on most fridges the water valve and supply lines are on the back. You should be able to buy that piece, unless age is a factor.
@@Thomasappliance I took the supply hose off and the tube that feeds water to the ice maker was frozen solid I just put it in a bucket of hot water and all is clear just waiting to see if that fixed it thanks again
Ok so my Amana side by side black fridge I got back in 17 decided to not make ice I noticed been working fine... Well I watched vid and did the jump wire deal and it worked like it should heard the ice drop and refill... I think last night it did it on its own but not sure... Figured there'd be some ice in it after work tonite and didn't look like anything was added... So what's going on now ?
Thanks for watching shaneh, putting the jumper wire in bypasses the heater, the ice maker will need to be replaced because most ice makers don't come in pieces.
Thanks for watching lolobong, usually if ice doesn't fully eject it can be because the mold isn't clean or it is chipping the nice smooth finish off, so the ice sticks. The heater may not be heating enough. The cubes might be too big also because too much water came into the mold.
Hello I just replaced my unit. I was able to fill and cycle by jumping T and H. Issue is that the unit never drops the ice. Water sits frozen in the mold. Not sure what to check next?
Thanks for the video. I've been at war with my ice maker for far too long. First the inlet spout would freeze up every few days and I had to use a turkey baster and boiling water to thaw it out. I turned the temp up to see if that would help. Then the inlet would overflow and run icicles all the way to the bottom. I changed the water valves and get water to the door but now the icemaker doesn't cycle at all. I turned the temp back down to see if that would help. It didn't. So I jumped the T and H, nothing. I have a few old icemakers in the shed so I'm going in. Hopefully I can find the problem and have some parts. The old ones I have are for the side and mine is for the door but they look very similar.
@@Thomasappliance The problem I found is I don't have 120 volts from the fridge to the icemaker. The control lights are flashing correctly. L-N is reading nothing and so is the harness coming from the fridge.
@@Thomasappliance Thanks. Most of the wire problems I've read or watched were where the ice make was in the door and the wiring went thru the hinge. Mine is stationary in the fridge. I'm going to try to find a good tech, they are scarce here. Thanks again and keep up the good work,
Thanks Greg very informative and detailed instructions. Appreciate your time to make this video. Two Questions: 1) Is it possible to increase ice production if so how? 2) near the main gear looks like adjustment screw and also a nother one near top right face cover mount screw, what are they for. Thank you in advance answering my question.
Thanks again I appreciate it. It turns out those two adjustment screws 2nd part question, so I thought, are actually are pivot points for the bucket arm etc.
Great video!! My voltage shows 97 volts. Even the jumper and the wiring plug to icemaker. I also replaced the control boards. Light was not coming on, it is now. Still the ice maker won't cycle. Any suggestions?
@@Thomasappliance I taped down the light switch and it ran through the cycle but no water. I guess the next thing would be to defrost the water supply, right? I tried a heat gun to blow hot air into the pipe for a few minutes but it didn't do much.
Did you ever solve the problem? I'm having the same issue now on a replacement install. Its reading 95v after the install, and remains non functioning when I put the jumpers in. Any help would be appreciated!
I reattached my ice control arm after it popped off. Now Ice maker makes too much ice. Control arm moves when Ice is harvested, yet it does not stop making ice when the bin is full and control arm stops on top of ice pile. Also, If I put control arm into top position, I hear a click; nevertheless, the ice maker continues to make ice??? . Any fixes for this???
please cover the diagnosis of the Thermal fuse that is in the Harness. I believe mine is blown. No power to the N neutral and L line terminals in my new Icemaker, nor the old one.
Greg. This was a really good diagnostic, and R&R video. Great work. As I said, please cover the Thermal fuse, in the Wire Harness. My new ice maker came without one, so had to use the original. The Thermal fuse was blown in the harness. I spliced in a temporary wire, to bypass the Thermal fuse, and the new ice maker works great, until the New Harness arrives.
Great video! Thanks. My ice maker is identical to the one you have shown here. My fridge is Whirlpool ET18PKXGW01 All the tests you gave says ice maker is good to go including the heater. EXCEPT the only way I can get it to dump the ice is with a hair dryer. It is as if the heater doesn't work, but it tests just fine. so???? What replacement ice maker to order for my fridge. I appreciate the assistance.
Hank, Greg, I have EXACTLY the same issue :-) Identical icemaker as the one in the video, and all of the tests check out, including resistance of 72 ohms on the heater. It fills the ice tray, but is too frozen to release them. About a minute with a hairdryer, and it’s able to push them out. Just curious if you ever found a fix for this or replaced the icemaker as Greg mentioned? Thanks in advance!
Hey, GREAT VIDEO. Thanks. Can’t believe all the complaints. Question is how it’s mounted? Should it be level or tilted towards the front of the freezer?
Thanks for watching, Let me know if you have attempted this video on your ice maker, and weather it helped at all. Hit that like button if you liked the video, or it was helpful for you also. Have a great day!!
Awesome, I had already pulled it all apart and fixed a broken circuit, but it still wasn't working. After watching your video though, I was able to know for sure that the heater was going bad also, so thanks!
@@justgoaz thanks for watching, and I'm glad you got it fixed!!
Video very helpful in troubleshooting my Whirlpool ice maker thanks again.
@@tammiehavens7480 thanks for watching, I'm glad the video helped you out.
Thanks for this in-depth ice maker troubleshooting video - very helpful, led me to pinpoint the failure of mine to a bad motor.
Greg, just to let you know, I received my new module today and I replaced the old one with your video instructions, now my ice maker is making ice once again. I can’t thank you enough and it only cost me $35.00 from Amazon. 😊
That's awesome, good job. I'm glad i could help!
Greg great Job on explaining how to troubleshoot ice maker. So far your the only one who has shown how to do this. I learned a couple things I wasn’t aware of. I’m honing to check my refrigerator now. Thanks again. David
Glad it helped, thanks for watching
Best presentation on ice makers I was able to find, thank you!
Thanks for watching silviuconstantin, I'm glad it could help you. Was there anything I missed?
Thank you brother. I usually wouldn't comment on anything but you're awesome in your effort and explanation. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so.much for the feedback, thanks for watching!!
Thanks for the video! Helped me diagnose mine. You could get it to cycle by t to h, but wouldn't intiate the water valve. L to v would run the valve though. What I found was 1 of the contacts that extend through to the slides on the back of the big gear was broken. Ordered a new ice maker.
Thanks for watching kraftzion, and yes thats the case with these things either the contact arms break or weld themselves shut. Good job!
Thank you Greg, second time pulling the ice maker after seeing your video I decided I needed to inspect contact points under the cover and wala there it was. Over time moisture caused the heater terminal in the inside of the cover to arch and burn eventually causing it to😀 short and stop working. You Did a nice job of identifying ALL the test points on the exterior cover. Again thank you, everything got a good inspection and cleaning also. Jayme
I'm glad you got it figured out. And thanks for watching Monty Piethon!
Bro, y lo arreglaste, de mi igual se cortocircuito, me podés explicar más a profundidad, con el conector de la cubierta te refieres al módulo, a la resistencia?
Thank You !!!!! I just installed a new ice maker for my Mother and it was doing nothing. I watched 30 install and trouble shooting videos and waited and waited. Now I got the whole kit which included new water valve , box , lever , everything. I would probably be knee deep in water trying to change the water valve if you had not explained the internal thermostat. I had washed the tray out with very hot water before I installed it so that may have made it take a little longer to get going. Your video gave me the patience to wait and now it seems to be working. It is full of water now and my fingers are crossed that it will just work fine now. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching Jerry P., thats awesome hopefully it stays running, good job!
@@Thomasappliance Yeah it's putting out ice now ! Mom is happy LOL all that matters.
@@jerrypeevey thats great
Thanks so much for making this video! My only regret is not finding it sooner! My ice maker is getting too much water, creating a layer of ice on top of cubes. This must occur after dumping the cubes, as they are free immediately after dumping. Another video on here explained it may be the inlet valve and/or the filter assembly. Then another pointed to the defrost thermostat. After replacing all these at considerable expense and no fix, I found your video. My next step is to adjust the amount of water into the area. Hope it works! Thanks again!
Thanks for watching ni4cx6gc5h, yep sounds like an adjustment is needed, let me know how it goes. You got this!
Totally awesome video on ice maker you help me troubleshoot my ice maker on my Whirlpool identical ice maker turns out I'm going to have to get a new ice maker I guess but thank you so much for your video
😭
Thank you so much! I was able to diagnose my ice maker and only need a new arm. Once I removed the modulator and turned the arm holder it began working…. So I don’t need a whole new ice maker. Keep up the great work!
That's awesome, good job diagnosing.
Thank you for the thorough diagnosis possibilities. I think you helped us fix our ice maker based off different senerios you gave.
Thank you for watching Jessica Saunders, and I'm glad I could help.
GE PROFILE auger replacement Icemaker
GE Profile Auger replacement
By r be
@@cecilgibbs6817 thats a good idea for a video, ill try and find one I can work on.
Ok so I have been trying to relate to is to test individual components. Many videos out there on just testing of the points with out taking it apart. I needed to know how they get the values on certain individual parts. Thank you and thank you for taking the time👍🏼
Thanks for the great feedback!! And you are welcome
Great detailed video Greg. Thank's for doing it.
When I checked the resistance values they were way lower than they should have been.
New ice maker on order!
your very welcome!
Very helpful, now I can start troubleshooting!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!!
What a fantastic and educational video. Greg, you were very thorough, informative and easy to understand. Thank you so much for sharing. Now I have at least some information to try and fix my ice maker. I think I’ll try replacing the module first after I reset it and it won’t work. My problem is the ejector fingers are freezing in the water. It got out of sync somehow. 😊
Yeah it's supposed to be a timed cycle, so the head could be screwing up
@@Thomasappliancethanks for responding 👍
@@Egalitarian-bt7kz no problem at all
Thanks for the great video. I have a Kitchenaid KSR225ILWHo2 Side by Side which is about 20 years old. The ice had just stopped. I have to remove the unit to try the jumper test and the motor did not turn. Taking the entire unit to my bench, I discovered the motor resistance was 4400 Ohm not 8000 so I assumed this was the issue. There were no other issues I could see or test results bad. I replaced the entire section 106626640 using part Supco IMM8366. ($25 Amazon). The new motor had resistance 8200 Ohm. I was stumped when I hooked up the new unit and jumpered the HT I still could not get it to turn. My unit has in LED ice level and this tested fine. I held both switches and the unit would not turn. As a last effort I just installed the unit, hooked everything up and to my amazement it started producing ice in about 20 min. I am very happy of course with the repair but am stumped on why this worked. I was ready to take the unit out and start the entire diagnostic test using the board but didn't need to do this. Maybe a video on how to do this for us non expert home repairers. Thanks again for the great video and taking time for us repair wannabes!
Thanks for watching Mark Confer, thats great you got it going. Sometimes I find after everything is installed I have to reset the whole system, usually i do this by unplugging the fridge for a couple min and plugging back in. I dont know why this works but it seems to reset everything and then everything works as it should.
Thank you for the great video. I liked you didn’t rush your talking so one can understand and able to follow your reasoning.
I’d like to suggest to you explore more troubleshooting the inlet water valve to the ice maker.
Also you mentioned regarding the feeding pipe frozen but didn’t explore troubleshooting it.
I have a frozen pipe that feeds the ice maker. What’s the cause?
Thank you Greg Thomas
Thanks for watching imadbedros, your very welcome, that was one of my first videos so I was panicking a little that it was way too long do some things got cut. I just came out with a video on a ge fridge where I just diagnose the water system. With the frozen pipe it's very difficult because these ice makers go in hundreds of different fridges, which all have different fill systems, some actually have in tube heaters you can buy for this issue.
Great video. Very detailed. Thanks for taking the time to produce it. The music in the background was distracting to me however. I had to keep rewatching it to understand what you were saying.
Thank you for the feedback, it is greatly appreciated. Thanks for watching!!
Try using Closed Captions.
Hey man, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I'm used to the little metal set screw, so 10:40 for anyone looking for the water fill screw....
Thanks for watching Joerichmar, and I'm glad the video could help you out.
@@Thomasappliance Maybe you'll know the answer to this. So the water flow is slow on my Kenmore elite side-by-side. Its probably the filter. If I just remove the filter, will the ice make and dispenser still work? I lost the filter cap, but can still remove the filter.
@@joerichmar6041 if you take the filter out the water shouldn't work, to either. You have to have a bypass cap or filter in place.
Great details on trouble shooting, very nice video. Thanks man 👍👍
Thanks for watching sami4chicago, thanks for thr kind words!
Than you Greg. Your presentation here is excellent. Actually, it is very calming with your voice and nice background music. I just replaced the Whirlpool icemaker in my Kenmore fridge and I couldn't resist dissecting the old one to learn about what makes it tick. What led me here is the new one is not working and I am trying to learn as much as I can to troubleshoot the reason. The water valve works as I disconnected it from the fridge and jumped it with 120V. The solenoid actuated and the icemaker water tray filled. I am at a loss as to why it is still not working.
Thanks for watching hootinouts, do you have 120v between l and n on the icemaker head?
Thanks for the tips. Mine just stopped making ice, pulled ice maker and the fill cup was frozen. Defrosted that, put back ice maker but still no ice. Watched your video and the jumper portion appeared to fix my problem. Removed jumper Mine has a black housing with one wire coming into it that plugs into the portion that was jumpered. Motor turned and water filled ice tray. Hopefully it will continue to work!
Thanks for watching Bob Love, hopefully it stays going for you!
Great tips! Had a frozen fill tube. Jumpered ice maker to rotate it and it refiled.
Some fridges there is a fill tube heater kit to make sure that won't happen
Greg Greetings, question does the plastic screw have any adjustment?
Thanks for watching, yes the water adjustment screw does move, I talked about it in the video briefly, will definitely want to see what I say, it's a very fine adjustment.
Good job, you went through it all it’s awesome. Keep up the great work thank you.
Thanks for the great feedback, I hope the video helped
Holy Smoke! Your video is so thorough that I just got a part-time gig repairing ice makers at a high-end appliance store! Lol. I am going to check your other videos! It's a euphoric feeling to know how to troubleshoot problems! Very informative!
Mine made the ice, but it's not dumping them. It's the heater, but I tested it. It's around 73...so good. If I reset it manually and it rotates the dial, the arms move down and dump the ice. So...what's next?
Thanks for watching dentistmomchef, lol thank you. I would check the mold, a lot of them were known to peel, when it looses its slipperyness the ice dont seem to want to come out.
Thank you very much for the detailed video. Very helpful. Have a nice day, I'm a subscriber now.
Thanks for watching genescarfone, and for the awesome feedback.
pretty clear thanks for this Greg big help
Thanks for watching softmetals, and thanks for the great feedback!!
Hi Greg since last time I watched your video I took out my ice maker out, Kenmore model 106.58422700, I removed the cover off, the shot off arm then I looked for any corrosion did not see any then I removed the cam arms then aha moment happened 🤔 there were contactors with heavy arch buildups. Once I sanded them the contact surfaces it worked like a charm. Thanks again for your time and a great video.
Focus 737 That is good to hear, thanks for watching again!!
i took off the front cover and saw the same discoloration/burn on the main power line. so i replaced the entire unit, jump started it and it worked!… for a couple cycles. then it stopped working again. i pulled the cover off the new unit and the same electrical burn had happened in the same spot? what could be causing this?
Thanks for watching cameronbremer, when it comes to electrical systems, anything could cause that to happen. Whether a wire is shorted, or the house wiring is causing an over current situation.
My Whirlpool fridge stopped dispensing water and ice. After all kinds of searching it was the filter. The pin on the end of the filter (water inlet/outlet end) was too long. IT works the bypass(?). Anyway, I trimmed off 1/16 of an inch and solved my problem. On another video people where c/o the same thing and someone said trimming the pin worked for him and it worked for me......after going through a whole lot of other items. Loads of people are having problems with the filters fitting properly. Good luck and thanks for all the suggestions.
Thanks for watching Steve zelev. I haven't heard of that fix but I'm going to look into it because that sounds interesting.
Very good and helpful thanks
Thanks for watching dbernstein, and I'm glad the video helped.
Thank you for this thorough video. My issue is the over filling of the ice tray, and your description of the little turny thing has helped me to figure it out. Only thing is I had already turned that piece and was not keeping track of my rotations, so now I’ll have to watch and wait!
Caroline Chang thanks for watching, I'm glad the video helped maybe even after the fact.
Thank you so much very informative !!!!
No problem, I hope it helps
Great video, thank you!!!
No problem at all, I hope it helped you out.
Easily the best icemaker video on UA-cam. Thank you. My icemaker will attempt to cycle manually, but cannot budge the ice, so my suspicion is a bad heater, but I will also pull the module and check the points just in case. And now I know how to test the resistance on the heater. On my second icemaker, probably about to be a third.
Thanks for watching and your kind words whoisjohngalt, these icemakers just aren't made too well. Good job doing this yourself!!
Word to the wise. Replace the whole unit. The tray coating wears and pits. If power is at the head and you jump to make it cycle and it does not. Replace the unit. Very informative video.
Thanks for watching Most Likely We Do It Services, and yes you are quite right on that one.
very informative. And well done .
Thank you for the great feedback, I hope it helped!
Hi, good job explaining how the ice maker works...I believe you forgot to mention is to make sure the fridge is level, or water might spill into the bucket.
Yes, you are right. There's so many things that can affect an ice maker or fridge in general.
Hi there, excelent explaining. I did all that in my whirlpool french type fridge. Everything inculuding water valve is good. The only problem is that water is not coming in ice maker. By the way when filling manually and test with jump wire ice maker works good. Therefore kindly tell how to make water come to ice maker.
First thing to check is when you jump it to run a cycle does the water valve do anything when it should be filling?
Very helpful video. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching Concerned patriot.
couldnt thank you enough... my motor was working but it read 50ish ohms. i didnt believe it so i took three mm's out... turns out it was @ 55ish ohms. ordering a new unit, wish me luck!
Thanks for watching Enjie Grows, glad you could diagnose it, good job!
Great video! My ice maker that is identical to yours works except the shut off arm would go up and stay up until I manually pull it down. What should I check for?
The cam on the inside of the dial is supposed to let the arm fall down, I would make sure there isn't anything stuck in the head of the assembly.
Informative video. Pretty sure I have a bad thermostat. I will know in a couple of hours. The motor and heater checked out good.
Thanks
Thanks for watching barney Howard!! Glad I could help.
Thanks for the video my arm will not shut off 😞 but it does work on the On position
Thanks for watching Aaron Guerrero, is the arm sitting right in the head, if yes then the head has some issue.
What can I do ? How do I fix the arm so it turns off ?
@@aaronguerrero4753 its probably easier to take the whole ice maker out and see whats going on. Just be careful putting it back in that everything goes back where it belongs.
@@Thomasappliance I took the ice maker apart as recommended. it turned out the plastic inside that holds the arm was not set correctly. Your video shows how it should look and used as guide to reset my piece . Thanks for the awesome video , I just hope the ice maker continues to work after I put it back together , if not I'll be in touch
@@aaronguerrero4753 thats awesome, good job. Hope the rest goes well.
Nice video Greg - thank you. This confirms that my ice maker mechanism is working properly. My problem seems to be ice build up in the fill tube (mine doesn't have a funnel). This has happened several times and it results in water running down the insides of the refrigerator and out onto the floor. Any ideas what could cause the fill tube to become blocked with ice? I'm wondering if the fill valve might not be closing completely, thereby allowing a trickle to flow constantly.
Thanks for watching, and yes that is usually the issue, the water valve doesn't fully close or over fills the ice mold.
@@Thomasappliance Thanks for the reply.
I made an attempt to do what u did. It did start spinning the arm and filling with water. I'll know tomorrow morning if it worked.
Thanks for watching dand, hopefully it works out!! Let me know
@@Thomasappliance it got stuck on an ice cube but yeah it worked. I used a piece of copper washer and bent it to shape and soldered it in
@@dand7056 sounds like the heater isn't coming on properly
GREAT video !! very comprehensive... I learned a lot ... especially taking apart mechanism and mentioning what each "test hole" is for including resistance and voltage if there is any. Sure don't want to purchase a new (expensive) part only to find out the problem was somewhere else. I wish I could find electrical schematics for this and other appliances; it would sure make troubleshooting so much easier.
Thanks for watching Jeff Karr, and thank you for the great feedback.
@@Thomasappliance On most appliances, if you look long enough, there's usually a wiring schematic somewhere hidden in a place you'd never look.
@@jumpercable20 true enough
thanks Greg , good information
Thanks for watching integrity5264, and for the awesome feedback.
Can I stick a insulated jump wire into the L and H to check if my heater works or does it have to be done with this device?
The wire will bypass the heater, so it might get a little warm but I would wait until the arms are just about down to feel for heat. Be careful it is pretty hot.
Good info! Other things;
1- Ice tray lost coating
2-Ice maker not level
3-Heater draws most amps and connectors burn, clean, tighten retry w/dielectric grease
4-If add or changing filter, flush 3-4 minutes. Active carbon comes out and hold water valve open, blow air from supply thru valve
5-Calcium, Lime, Magnesium or rust (Well) can keep seal open. Add filter for house, change to city
6- Fittings are “Shark-Bite” type, push in, pull line out to service.
7- Buy extra filter, store next to ice box
8- Ice kits are sold buy left over inventory as repair shops close= deals
9-If trays corrode and cube stick, buy water softener to install before hot water heater, leave hose & irrigation before softener = waste. Yard doesn’t care about minerals, car paint does, so pick carefully with plumber.
Thanks kindly for the video info. Digital Volt-Ohm meters are cheaper & better. Wear rubber gloves I working with voltage! Unsure, call pro!
Yes, that's all true. And yes digital dvom is much better for sure
Una pregunta si hubo un corto, y se recalentaron los csbles de fase y neutro, cual es el moivo de la falla, y que podria estar mal?
When it comes to overheating it can be as simple as a loose connection, if the thermostat shorted out and wasn't working properly the heater could stay on, the ice maker or fridge could of had a surge and blew wires.
Do you have a recommendation on a replacement unit?
The ice maker used depends on the fridge model number. there's hundreds of different icemakers. Just use your model number to figure out which one is used
Thanks for your video Greg. I have a question about the input voltage. It measures zero on my icemaker. Is there a fuse inline for this input voltage. I seem to remember that there is an inline fuse in the 120 volt wiring harness. Can you let me know if there is.
Thanks,
Dave K
Thanks for watching David Kling, some icemakers do in the incoming wiring and some don't, it would just depend on the year and model of the ice maker.
This video is amazing
Thank you for the great feedback, and thanks for watching Gooksta!
I have same type of ice maker. Mine is making ice but not as much as it should. Any ideas. Thank you for a great tutorial
It sounds like maybe it's not getting enough water so possibly a faulty water valve. Or if the cubes are fine but it doesn't make ice fast enough, the temp in freezer could be not cold enough.
Hi I have a U line icemaker and for some reason the ice is sticking to the tray not allowing the arm to turn, I ve tested the resistance and gave me 330 ohms, how do I know if is good or not?
Thank you
I'm not sure what spec is on those but 330 ohms should be fine, is the tray inside chipping or dirty from built up calcium?
@Thomasappliance yes the tray itself was chipping away and build up calcium, I sanded all off and apply epoxy paint special for food, just to cover the whole tray and prevent it from sticking, I ll see if it works, thank you
@fsrodeo81 no problem, hopefully that works, ive never tried it myself
Is it cold enough to produce ice ? As I told you, I need to replace the digital system in a WHIRPOOL for an analog one and was worried about how to keep the ice maker producing ice without any refrigerant gas pipe going into its system. So, that means that the only thing I have to worry about is to have the voltage, and the water....am I right ? Thanks for your fast response, I will be waiting again for this question. Thanks and I am following you to get all your great explanations. Ramon Perera, Miami
I'm not sure I completely understand, what digital system are you replacing for a analog one? The ice maker won't run if it's not cold enough in the freezer, hopefully that's what your asking.
@@Thomasappliance Thanks again for responding....I am trying to convert a digital WHIRLPOOL WRF555SDFZ08 to analog, because the board has failed more than once, and you know they are expensive.. This model has the freezer in the bottom part and the ice maker on the upper part of the machine...so it is difficult for me to understand that only the cold air from the bottom will make the ice maker to work. Understand that I am new in this field and always thought there was a gas pipe going to the ice maker. To have this clear will allow me to start the whole system, including the ice maker just by having 120 volts and not using any low voltages from the digital board. The same if the motors in the dispenser work with 120, it would be just a matter of changing connections. I know maybe it is not the best thing to do, but I do not want to spend any more money in a very sofisticated system. What I need is to have cold water and ice. Thanks for your patience and understanding. Continue being GREAT, Greg....Love what you are doing for us.
Thank you.
No problem, I'm glad it helped!!
Hello Greg I agree with the comments I see great video. I have a whirlpool domestic refrigerator with ice maker in my RV. The units has worked great for two years up until I went to winterize it a couple days ago and now the water valve does not seem to be filling/opening. My question is does this thermostat that will not let the icemaker work until it gets down to 0 interrupt power to the test terminal L? I was not getting 110v at L but I was reading something like 58v. I am using a good fluke meter.
Thanks for watching John Howell! I would check at the wiring coming into ice maker if there is 120v there then the icemaker inside has resistance and will need to be changed, if you get the same voltage you had before you know the board that supplies power to the ice maker is bad.
@@Thomasappliance
Thanks for answering so fast,,,,but the one I am changing is the main board on the back. I have the sticker with NO CODE number. That's whay I am looking for what to do now. I watched a video where the technician does not reprogram the unit after replacing the main board, so I am confused if I have to do it or not. Please let me know. Thanks again, Ramon, Miami
Mist fridges don't need you to program anything if its the back board
That is a very good news. This unit only has the back board plus the control panels in front, maybe that's why there is no CODE NUMBER on the sticker. You can't imagine how much I do appreciate your answer. As I said before, you are GREAT Greg. you are more than helping us. You deserve our respect and consideration. I will continue following you wherever you go. Thanks and have a great day. Ramon.@@Thomasappliance
@ramonperera6218 thank you for those kind words. I'm glad I can help!
Thank you for this great video! The ice maker in my refrigirator was not working when I moved in my apt and I didn't bother to fix then! Today, I decided to try to fix it, but no luck! This ice maker doesn't have those two holes to use the jumper wire. My guess is that there is power issue. Maybe the inlet valve? Please advise. The refrigirator model is: General Electric GTH18XCT2RWW
On that model you can hold in the door switch and push the panel just on the bottom of the ice maker in 3 times and then let go of the door switch, this will force the unit into manual cycle. If it doesn't run you can check for power to ice maker. If there is power but it won't run you will have to replace ice maker. But before doing all that make sure there is no off switch somewhere that turns the ice maker off. Thanks for watching Saeed Hasanzadeh
Hello Greg. Question. My ice maker is identical to this one. what it's started to do is Freeze up I guess. If you leave it in the on position it cycles normally. If you turn it off or goes w/o cycling for awhile, say the bin is full , when it cycles again, it struggles very hard to push the ice out. The motor just sits there and creaks as it trys to push out the ice. I actually had to defrost w/ a hair dryer to get it going the last time. Heater ohms ck fine. Thoughts ? Thanks.
Thanks for watching Monteric!, the mold that the water sits in can build up with calcium causing it to stick, or the mold can peel which I've seen too. Both would cause the heater to not be as affective also.
Greg- thanks! You have no idea how helpful your video has been! In these cases, do you replace just the tray, the heater or whole icemaker? Thanks again!
Does the metal arm cut of electricity to solenoid?
Is solenoid 120v or low voltage?
Great video!
The metal arm is just a switch which will connect a path of electricity between power and neutral when the arm is down. The only solenoid in the system is the water valve, which is 120v.
Is the time for harvesting the ice controlled by a timer or does it measure temperature to see if ice is solid and ready?
When the thermostat is cold enough it tells the motor to run which turns on the heater
Great informative video, thank you if I want to remove the ice maker and not replace it, do I need to seal the electric socket, or I can keep it exposed.
Some have covers, and some don't. So don't worry about it if you don't have one. Thank you so much for watching, and the great feedback. Iam iam.
@@Thomasappliance Thank you again for your reply, I appreciate it.
@@iamiam1425 I'm just glad I could help
My ice maker had visible white powder and cooper deterioration where one of the pins from main unit plugs into the power connection on the ice maker module. I wire brushed cleaned, used needle nose pliers to reposition slightly the remaining cooper to make contact with pin when two parts are put back together. 24 hours later ice tray is filled and it's working fine so far.
That's awesome good job
So if the motor is running, the ice removal fingers are turning, the freezer is cold enough?? My GFs ice maker isn't working. I have already replaced the water valve and checked the water tube for being frozen, still no ice. I'm thinking the ice maker itself is bad. Could a bad control module cause no water flow to the ice maker?? The ice maker works in every way but water flowing to it. I can pour water into the tray and it will make ice. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Great video!! Iven tried to watch some other ice maker videos, yours is by far the most info filled.
Thanks for watching stephenhood, a board can cause issues with an ice maker but thats not usually the case. I would put the icemaker into harvest and climb behind the fridge and when the ice maker should be calling for water check for power to the valve.
@@Thomasappliance Thank you for the reply. Your video does explain where the board needs to be to send a water valve signal. When I get over her place I will watch it again and see where it needs to be to signal the water valve. Thanks again!!!
@@stephenhood2948 no problem, hope you can figure it out.
what is the effect on the heater operation if the test indicates 92 ohms? my icemaker will make and eject ice one time after resetting using the TH jumper, refills tray, but then won't eject again. any suggestions?
It manually turns on the heater, the heater turning on starts the cycle, so next time it needs to eject the heater is not turning on. So either the heater, or thermostat, or possibly wiring is the issue.
Isn't there any refrigerant tube getting into the ice maker , like in the Samsung system ? Thanks for responding,,,,,Ramon Perera, Miami.
Thanks for watching ramonperera, most fridges there is a fan that blows cold air towards or around the icemaker. The evaporator fan is usually used.
Outstanding.
Thanks for watching trickhealey, and thanks for the feedback.
@@Thomasappliance thank YOU! Definitely helped me with my ice maker. I did not think to jump T and H to get it to cycle. Thing had somehow lost its way, had a valve issue a little while ago, sorted that out but then the darn thing refused to cooperate. Your video was just what I needed to understand the whole thing. Right to the point all killer no filler.
Hi Greg mine does not have all these testing point (L,M,H...etc..). but some pins sticking out the head. are these pins correspond to L,M etc....
and I dont get 120 volt to the water valve.. any sugesstions ?
whats the model number of the fridge it came out of?
@@Thomasappliance its from under counter U Line ice maker not the Frig.
@@hamidkashi7778 I'm not sure about the one you have but I think I've seen ones like that and the only testing you can do is through the electrical system and a schematic.
What would be the cause of no voltage at L and N? We've purchased a new ice maker, thinking that the old one was bad, but we have no power coming in to the unit. Is there an inline fuse somewhere? Thanks!
Thanks for watching deaniespikes, make sure you check for voltage there with the door switch held closed, if no power at l and n I would checkbto see if there is power to the icemaker.
@@Thomasappliance I finally tested each wire of the 4-pin cable for continuity. The black wire, the one with the thermal fuse embedded in it, had no continuity. I replaced the cable, and it now works fine!
Hi GReg! Here again asking for help. If I change the board on my WHIRLPOOL WRF555SDFZ would I need to reporgramm it or not ? I watched a video about this but talking about a CODE to do it that should be in the label,,,,but my machine has not such a code, so I don't know what to do. Pleas, if you have some idea regarding this subject let me know please. Thanks in advance, Ramon from Miami.
If you are changing the jazz board, which is the one right in your face when you open the door, yes you have to program the board. The code will be written on the model and serial number sticker.
Why does the tube feeding the ice maker freeze? It's happened on mine many times. I've replaced the ice maker and the ice maker water valve.
Thanks for watching johnharris, some fridges have made heaters on the incoming fill tube that you can get. Most of the other ones its just poor design.
My heater has a 106ohm resistance and it seems the frozen cubes stick in the tray. Is the heater shot or some contact not clean?
Thanks for watching Robert Dawson, the heater resistance should be 72ohms almost always, if the number is that high its not within the 10% allowable fluctuation. The mold can also be peeling inside which doesn't let the cubes slide out easily. I would say you are probably going to have to change the whole ice maker assembly. You can also check between t and h, which should be a reading of 0 ohms if thermostat is closed, or infinite if the thermostat is open.
mine is a Kenmore Pro built in not sure about the electrical, it doesn't have a plug that I can see. and I can't pull the end off to see the gear.
Thanks for watching Jerry Bryan, what was happening with the ice maker?
Hi, When I put the 2 wires into the two holes in the ice maker to test if the arms work, a humming noise comes from behind the fridge Why ?
Thanks for watching user-ddss7dz4y, are you putting the leads into T and H? If there is humming from behind fridge it would mean the water valve is activating. Is the icemaker filling?
Hello, the icemaker lever stays up, I have to lower it manually, do you know why it does that, or what can I do?
If it is raised thats how you shut it off and it will stay like that, until you lower the arm manually to turn it back on. Thanks for watching Daniel Rodriguez.
@@Thomasappliance I'll explain it to you, it makes ice but when the cycle ends the lever stays up it doesn't go down so it continues making ice I have to go and lower it I don't know if you understand
the mechanism of the lever when the ice comes out goes up and stays up it does not come back and go down automatically thanks
@@lolobong ok I see, I would check and make sure the arm is in the head properly, if it is then there is a piece in the head that while turning lets it fall back down. So you might have to take apart the head and see if its fixable or is something broken inside.
Can you actuate the water valve from the V test point on the front of the head?
My refrigerator is a Maytag about 10 years old. I’ve never replaced the ice maker.
Good video!
Thanks for watching pmscalisi, I'm not 100% sure, I wouldn't try it personally. I activate a cycle, wait for the end when it should be activating the valve and see if there is 120v to water valve when it's calling for water.
@@Thomasappliance okay, thanks!
@@pmscalisi no problem at all
Very helpful, my fridge stops producing ice every few weeks or so ice cubes get frozen to the arm and Jams it up. What could that be ?
Sounds like its a little too cold in the ice maker section, or the mold has a coating on it and it is worn off, causing the ice to stick. Thanks for watching Dillan Clymer.
Thanks for the video! Question for you - my ice maker will run if I jumper it, but once it goes through the cycle, the fingers hit a spot where it just stops. Again, if I jumper it, it will work (motor turns the fingers, heater turns on and allows the ice to break from the mold and be moved, and the fingers make their way around and harvest the cubes. Then it fills with water, but the fingers stop and won't move again to harvest the ice unless I jumper it. Any idea what might be the issue?
Thanks for watching Chris A, it sounds like either something electrically is wrong in the head or the thermostat isn't sensing as it should. There can also be an issue with the board that controls the ice maker but not usually the problem.
@@Thomasappliance I see. I'll buy a replacement ice maker and hopefully that will fix it!
@@chrisa8541 it definitely should, good luck.
I was having trouble with the water fill valve. while trying to test this I lost power to the ice maker. Any ideas?
Thanks for watching lw3ou1ur4y, testing the water valve, even shorting out the water valve should have no affect on the ice maker.
Hey Greg,
I replace my ice maker all the power is correct at all test points but it will not trigger an auto fill with water. I can manually fill it by jumping but it won’t do it automatic even after a full cycle of the motor
Is the freezer cold enough to trigger a cycle? Did the new ice maker come with a new thermostat?
Where is thermostat that starts motor? Enjoyed video everything seems to be working but motor doesn’t start can turn by hand makes ice.
Thanks
Thanks for watching davidlyles2737, its inside the head but it more or less tells you weather its cold enough for the ice maker to make ice, if it makes ice then it is working fine. You can test between L and M and the resistance should be between 4400 and 8800 ohms.
the water supply stem on the back looks corroded at the metal elbow connector does amazon sell those too?
Thanks for watching jimidean corncracker, yes on most fridges the water valve and supply lines are on the back. You should be able to buy that piece, unless age is a factor.
@@Thomasappliance Thanks for the reply great video thumbs up subscribed
@@Thomasappliance I took the supply hose off and the tube that feeds water to the ice maker was frozen solid I just put it in a bucket of hot water and all is clear just waiting to see if that fixed it thanks again
@@1dotele thats awesome, you don't see that often but it does happen.
Ok so my Amana side by side black fridge I got back in 17 decided to not make ice I noticed been working fine... Well I watched vid and did the jump wire deal and it worked like it should heard the ice drop and refill... I think last night it did it on its own but not sure... Figured there'd be some ice in it after work tonite and didn't look like anything was added... So what's going on now ?
Thanks for watching shaneh, putting the jumper wire in bypasses the heater, the ice maker will need to be replaced because most ice makers don't come in pieces.
how do you get the cover off with unit installed?/
Thanks for watching, I usually use a 90degree pick but a small flat screwdriver will work too.
Greetings, there is a button that is used to control the thermostat, why does mine stay halfway when it is going to remove the ice?
Thanks for watching lolobong, usually if ice doesn't fully eject it can be because the mold isn't clean or it is chipping the nice smooth finish off, so the ice sticks. The heater may not be heating enough. The cubes might be too big also because too much water came into the mold.
Is there a way to lower the amount of water and thanks for answering
@lolobong at 10:40 in the video I talk about that. Np at all, hope you can get it fixed up.
Hello I just replaced my unit. I was able to fill and cycle by jumping T and H. Issue is that the unit never drops the ice. Water sits frozen in the mold. Not sure what to check next?
If the water sits frozen in the mold the thermostat or the heater is to blame on the icemaker. Thanks for watching DaKine
Thank you
No problem at all
I replaced my unit because the lining of the old unit was deteriorated and peeling and a powder formed.
When checking resistance do you need to unplug the unit?
Greg my ice maker leaks inside the freezer. Any ideas
Thanks for watching Patricia Moore, is it coming from the ice maker overflowing or from the back of the fridge?
Thanks for the video. I've been at war with my ice maker for far too long. First the inlet spout would freeze up every few days and I had to use a turkey baster and boiling water to thaw it out. I turned the temp up to see if that would help. Then the inlet would overflow and run icicles all the way to the bottom. I changed the water valves and get water to the door but now the icemaker doesn't cycle at all. I turned the temp back down to see if that would help. It didn't. So I jumped the T and H, nothing. I have a few old icemakers in the shed so I'm going in. Hopefully I can find the problem and have some parts. The old ones I have are for the side and mine is for the door but they look very similar.
Thanks for watching House Bill, good luck getting it going again, you're on the right track.
@@Thomasappliance The problem I found is I don't have 120 volts from the fridge to the icemaker. The control lights are flashing correctly. L-N is reading nothing and so is the harness coming from the fridge.
@@unti419 that could very well get into a board issue or broken wire problem.
@@Thomasappliance Thanks. Most of the wire problems I've read or watched were where the ice make was in the door and the wiring went thru the hinge. Mine is stationary in the fridge. I'm going to try to find a good tech, they are scarce here. Thanks again and keep up the good work,
@@unti419 thanks for keeping me up to date, hopefully everything works out ok.
What if i have no power to the ice maker?
If you checked the wires going into the icemaker and have no voltage there, then you have to trace back power to usually a board.
Thanks Greg very informative and detailed instructions. Appreciate your time to make this video. Two Questions: 1) Is it possible to increase ice production if so how? 2) near the main gear looks like adjustment screw and also a nother one near top right face cover mount screw, what are they for. Thank you in advance answering my question.
Thanks for watching, if you go to around 10:40 in the video, is where I talk about the fill adjust.
Thanks again I appreciate it. It turns out those two adjustment screws 2nd part question, so I thought, are actually are pivot points for the bucket arm etc.
@@FOCUS-777 yes exactly, once the head is taken off you can see a little better what everything is tied to.
Great video!! My voltage shows 97 volts. Even the jumper and the wiring plug to icemaker. I also replaced the control boards. Light was not coming on, it is now. Still the ice maker won't cycle. Any suggestions?
That voltage is low, when jumping the ice maker does it do anything?
@@Thomasappliance I taped down the light switch and it ran through the cycle but no water. I guess the next thing would be to defrost the water supply, right? I tried a heat gun to blow hot air into the pipe for a few minutes but it didn't do much.
@@astroluck1525 yeah it could be frozen inside the line or the water valve isn't coming on at all
Did you ever solve the problem? I'm having the same issue now on a replacement install. Its reading 95v after the install, and remains non functioning when I put the jumpers in. Any help would be appreciated!
I reattached my ice control arm after it popped off. Now Ice maker makes too much ice. Control arm moves when Ice is harvested, yet it does not stop making ice when the bin is full and control arm stops on top of ice pile. Also, If I put control arm into top position, I hear a click; nevertheless, the ice maker continues to make ice??? . Any fixes for this???
Sounds like the switch in the head is not working, unfortunately most ice makers come as a whole unit.
please cover the diagnosis of the Thermal fuse that is in the Harness. I believe mine is blown. No power to the N neutral and L line terminals in my new Icemaker, nor the old one.
Greg. This was a really good diagnostic, and R&R video. Great work. As I said, please cover the Thermal fuse, in the Wire Harness. My new ice maker came without one, so had to use the original. The Thermal fuse was blown in the harness. I spliced in a temporary wire, to bypass the Thermal fuse, and the new ice maker works great, until the New Harness arrives.
Thanks for watching John Firebaugh, I will definitely cover that in my next ice maker video. Hopefully your ice maker is working as it should now
Great video! Thanks. My ice maker is identical to the one you have shown here. My fridge is Whirlpool ET18PKXGW01 All the tests you gave says ice maker is good to go including the heater. EXCEPT the only way I can get it to dump the ice is with a hair dryer. It is as if the heater doesn't work, but it tests just fine. so???? What replacement ice maker to order for my fridge. I appreciate the assistance.
Thanks for watching Hank Goodness! Sounds maybe like the thermostat possibly or the ice maker head, either way its a new icemaker.
Hank, Greg, I have EXACTLY the same issue :-) Identical icemaker as the one in the video, and all of the tests check out, including resistance of 72 ohms on the heater. It fills the ice tray, but is too frozen to release them. About a minute with a hairdryer, and it’s able to push them out. Just curious if you ever found a fix for this or replaced the icemaker as Greg mentioned? Thanks in advance!
@@dglasgo1 I ended up replacing the ice maker.
@@HankGoodness Thanks for the reply! I’ll try the same. Have a good one!
Hey, GREAT VIDEO. Thanks. Can’t believe all the complaints. Question is how it’s mounted? Should it be level or tilted towards the front of the freezer?
Thanks for watching Mark Padykula, the ice maker should be level in the freezer. And thanks for the great feedback.
@@Thomasappliance I’m still getting ice blocks in the ice basket. Water dial is turned all the way down. Sounds like it fills too much. Any ideas?
@@markpadykula2409 its a timed cycle from the ice maker head. The only way that can be overcome is if the water valve is sticking.