Thanks for the video, this is what I was looking for to protect the anvil hood ornament on my ACME SPEED SHOP truck. Only advice I would pass on to others is that to protect from fumes, use a respirator with organic filters designed for fumes, not a dust mask.
It’s holding up well . Yes there were a few spots to knock down and recover. It was expected , due to the truck being on the road . It wasn’t a major ordeal. I spent a weekend fixing it all up . I’m still happy with the protection that it offers .
Hey man I want to get a bare metal finish on a harley. Tank and fenders. I don't want to trust a clear coat to last due to yellowing. How long does sharkhide last on sheet metal and does it have high maintenance?
It has held up well . The one thing that I can tell you is to be sure you apply it on a dry day with low humidity. If that is possible for you . Why that is important is because you don’t want to trap moisture underneath the coating. It will form rust underneath. I’m doing another truck with bare fenders right now and I plan on using it again on this truck. I’m in Missouri and we have lots of rain in the spring and summer and I’ve driven in everything but snow with that truck and had no issues with the coating. One thing about it is that if you do get caught in the rain , wipe it down once you’re home. If you don’t you’ll have real bad water spots and they’re a bitch to clean off. It will take a lot of rubbing. Other than that I like it and it has worked well for me . Hope this helps, and thanks for checking out the video. 👍🏽
Right on ! I thought about stripping my sportster and doing it to match the truck. My Iron is the factory flat silver, but to make it complete bare metal would by the perfect match for the truck. Let me know how your project turns out . Thanks again. Glad the video was a help to you . Cheers 🍻
Thank you , and thank you . Yeah you can spray it and wipe it . I’ve washed it with my power washer , on the spray tip and washed it with soap to knock off road grit.
I used a wire wheel brush attached to an angle grinder to get all of the old paint and rust off of the metal. Then started sanding with 60 grit all the way up to 3000 grit by hand . I done each panel individually off of the truck. I couldn’t use a block because the body has some dents and dings in it . By using my hand my fingers we’re following every contour, so that the sand lines would be consistent with the imperfections of the sheet metal. I also followed the same sanding lines as the previous grit.
@@PatinaCodeMeans only the visible outer sheell is bare but inside might be some rust protection right? And how is the outer shell against weather conditions? I am living in a sunny area, less rain and if I dont take the car out usually
@@khancross The protection is great. It’s been on the truck for a bit over 2 years , I’ve had no problems. Now with that said , the truck isn’t out on the road every day either. I’ve had to touch up a few spots and those spots were due to a cat spraying on the truck.
@@khancross The small section where I knew that I wouldn’t be able to reach , which is the section where the front of the bed is , I painted, but the rest is all bare metal.
Yes it will. It’s used a lot around here on pontoon boat’s to keep the aluminum logs or floats from oxidation. I’ve ran this truck many times in the rain and have had no problems. Eventually I’m going to have to do a strip and redcoat being it that the truck is on the highway and basically gets sandblasted every trip from road debris. To answer your question, yes it will survive the rain. Just be sure to apply the coating on a low humidity day , so you don’t trap moisture under the coating.
My project is this I have a 2 tone black 24” rims 95% black with details unpainted My truck is white and I want to strip the black off the wheels and go completely aluminum to be more like a chrome appearance My plan is Aircraft remover to remove the faded old paint Then I’m unsure of my next steps Polish or wet sanding and clear coat Any tips or ideas? The wheels have brand new tires waiting for them the black rims just don’t look good on my white truck but I love the style
Sorry it took so long to respond. I’ve had to make some changes due to the arrival of my new born. To be honest I’m not familiar with working aluminum wheels. I do know that it’s tricky . Sorry I’m not much help on that subject.
Taking a 95 f150 down to bare metal. Had to patch some rust outs on the fenders with fiberglass. Any ideas on how to make it look like bare metal. Thought about cutting the fiber work back out and doing something like with your chainsaw link idea. How’s you go about it and what about an aluminum paint over the fiber repair instead
Well brother I’ve never worked with fiberglass. I can’t honestly tell you how the aluminum paint would turn out over the fiberglass. I do know that it’s an art to getting it smooth and ready to accept paint. I will say this though. Even if I knew how to work with fiberglass, I would still cut it out and patch the bad spot with metal. The chain links I used on that truck are from 60 series chain. What I did was use a chain splitter to get the links apart and then I placed them where I wanted them , marked the spots, drilled the holes for the link studs to pass through, then welded them on from the back side . Hope this helps you out and good luck with your project.👍🏽
This product was designed to protect unpainted metals. I’m not sure if it’s safe to use on paint. The chemical make up of this product may react in a negative way and damage your finish.
I started with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. The truck was originally pink. After getting down to the bare metal with the wire wheel I began sanding by hand . I started with 60 grit then worked my way up to 600 grit. The trick is to sand in all one direction.
I may have missed this but how many quarts did you need to coat the entire truck? I'm having to order this stuff and want to avoid multiple shipments. Thanks
One quart covered my entire truck . I have about 4 or 5 ounces left out of the whole 32 ounce container. Thanks for checking out the video , have a good day .
Thanks. It’s nice to meet a fellow Missourian. I know there’s tons of people into hot rods in this state , but rarely do I meet any of them over any of the social media. Kinda strange actually.
Hey man I'm doing my 02 tahoe like ur truck, not the entire truck but 80% of it lol something different and no one else has it here in el paso tx that is. I'm having a hard time getting the metal to look like ur truck. I still see scratches, iv start from 100 grit and up to 400 but still see scratches. I wanna get it smooth. Tips? Where can I send u a pic tell me what u think man
How I got the truck super smooth was started from 60 grit and worked all the way up to 2500 grit . Then used the 3M fine and super fine foam sanding pads . It took me 18 months to complete that truck. If you have Instagram you can’t send pictures to me there @patina_code or Facebook @patinacode
Hello my friend. Thanks for this video. I have one question, though. Is this good to use on motorcycle engine covers? Would it not chip on hot surfaces?
I’m not sure how well it would hold up to the heat . I personally haven’t put it on anything other than the body of this truck. Sorry it took me so long to respond.
Do you have any tutorials on the steps you took to get this look my guy. I have taken my car yo bare metal and i want to polish the metal before i take to the body shop i al trying to get it as close as i can to being ready for the shop as possible. good job on ya work
Thanks for the kind words . No I don’t have anything on how I got the truck down to bare . I can tell you how I did it though. I started with 60 grit sand paper then went to 80 , 120 , 160, 180 , 220 , 260 then 320. Then I started wet sanding at 400 grit then 600 ,800 ,1000 ,1500 2000 and ended with 3000 . I sanded by hand in the same direction the whole truck . It took me 18 months to build it.
@@PatinaCode man I really appreciate that… i thought water on bare metal would rust the car out.while wet sading is there a special drying method or do i just dry it off with a microfiber towel
@@handson3223 Yes I kept a few dry microfiber towels near to wipe down the water . Sorry it took so long to reply , I’ve been busy all day . Sweat and beer will rust bare metal the fastest. Water will show rust over night . One other thing to know about bare metal and putting any type of coating over it . You do not want to coat the metal on a humid day . Moisture will be trapped in the pores of the metal and then rust will form under the coating . If you live in a humid climate area , you can heat the metal a bit to evaporate any moisture before coating.
It is holding up pretty well . The truck has been down the highway many times since I’ve coated it and I haven’t had any issues. The only advice that I have is that you want to be completely sure that the metal that you’re coating is completely clean and dry. You don’t want moisture trapped in the pores of the metal that will eventually creep to the surface after coating. So , as long as the metal is clean and dry , you will be just fine.
The sealer I used on the drip rails is 3M Heavy Drip Check part number 08531. The only other place where I have seam sealer is on the rear of the cab , inside where the back meets the floor . I picked up the seam sealer for that at my local body shop.
I’d say that if you live by the ocean you would definitely want to have the metal in a professional paint booth the keep the humidity out of the metal before coating. I know that may not be the answer you wanted to hear , but ocean air is tough to battle. Not sure if you could get the moisture out of the air even if you sealed off you garage.
It’s to protect the metal from rusting . The function of the product is to create a barrier between the outside elements and the raw steel . It’s not permanent. Over time I will have to remove it and then reapply. I figure after 3 years it may be time to freshen it up.
On bare metal it’s better than the Penetrol. The Penetrol will yellow on bare metal, the SharkHide doesn’t. I like the Penetrol it’s pretty good stuff . It’s actually on the wood bed floor that I have in the truck .
I’m not too familiar with epoxies. If the product that you want to use says that it will seal the surface , then you should be ok . No matter what you want to cover bare metal with, make sure that the surface is completely clean and low humidity . The last thing you want to do is trap moisture that is in the pores of the metal.
@@PatinaCode thanks,. I'm in Az. And have it stripped and polished, still see scratches thru, and will be using wax and grease remover just prior. I love the bare metal look. That truck looks amazing. I'm not doing the whole car,. It's originally like a three color paint scheme on the 55 I'm doing and the top half of car will be bare and gonna try that dark blue color change spray on bottom. Sure like the truck very inspiring
@@sweetsketch3 Thank you . I was in Arizona for the get down this past November. Love the weather there . You build sounds pretty cool . When you get it done send me a picture, would like to see how it turns out .
I'm doing a raw metal finish on a 68 D100 Sweptline short but I don't think I want this sanding (grain( so fine looking for more of a fine brushed that shows the grain at like 15-20 ft. Thinking maybe 300 grit but it's a 1st endeavor at not using the typical putty/prime, block, prime......paint.
A 300 grit would give you the brushed look . After I got the old paint off the truck I did it all by hand . I just followed the body lines. I did it by hand so that way my fingers would flow along with the dips and bumps that are in the body. Good luck to you and let me know how your project turns out. Thanks for checking out the video.
I’m not familiar with epoxy and how it would hold up . Someone else asked me that same question. I believe his is going to go with an epoxy and I’ve asked him to share with me how it comes out . As soon as he does I’ll pass that info on to you as well .
Honestly it’s not about the full on “exposure “ for me . I just like showing people different things that’s relevant to the rat rod / patina rod culture. I did make a video for UA-cam featuring this bare metal truck . If you want to see my builds just go to Instagram and look me up @patina_code . I’ve got tons of videos featuring all of my trucks . Thanks for checking out the video.
@Megan’s Garage I’m sorry it didn’t work for you . I’ve had it on my truck since this video and I’ve had a few spots pop up . I attribute those to rock chips from going up and down the highway . Other than that I haven’t had any problems. Do you recall if it was humid the day you were applying it ? One of the reasons that rust will start to show up under the coating is because there was moisture trapped in the pores of the metal. No matter what coating you use , if there is high humidity, then it’s best to wait for the humidity to drop before sealing raw steel. There’s also other factors that could’ve played a part in the stuff not working , but Since you’re upset with me , I won’t drag this out. Again, I’m sorry to hear that it didn’t work out for you . I wasn’t pushing the product, I don’t have any affiliation with the company, nor do I know anyone within that company, so I can’t refund , or get someone else to refund your money. I was just showing what I was using and demonstrating how to use it to protect my bare metal truck .
@@PatinaCode I'm preparing a test of a variety of different bare metal treatments, preparing and applying exactly as directed. Then we'll see which one can weather Seattle's winters. LOL
@@therealgaragegirls Yeah , you’re in a tough area as far as humidity is concerned. I’d say Florida is right there as well. I’m in Missouri , so it’s not quite as humid. You may want to try heating the metal just a bit to open the pores , then apply your coating. That won’t work with SharkHide, because it’s recommended to be applied in a cooler temperature. I’m interested in your experiment. If you don’t mind let me know what you discover when you finish.
You have a beautiful pickup truck. Love the originality and your efforts sir.❤
@@atomicorang
Thank you . I appreciate that .👍🏽
Love your pickup❤
@@atomicorang
Thank you. It was a lot of work , but definitely worth it.
Thanks again and thanks for watching the video. 👍🏽
Wow you truck looks amazing! I'm doing a VW bug and I was about to clear it. Thanks for the Advice!
Thank you 💯
Thanks for the video, this is what I was looking for to protect the anvil hood ornament on my ACME SPEED SHOP truck. Only advice I would pass on to others is that to protect from fumes, use a respirator with organic filters designed for fumes, not a dust mask.
Yes you are correct, a respirator would be the more applicable form of protection from the fumes.
👍🏽
Glad that the video was a help to you .
@@PatinaCode Your truck is pretty awesome by the way!
@@jerryvikla3925
Thank you sir . I’d like to see yours. If you’re on Instagram or Facebook send me a link to your page and I come check you out.
❤Thankyou for your expertise sir.❤
Thank you for checking out the video . I’m glad it was a help to you .
I love your truck.Very original ❤
Thank you . 👍🏽
How is it holding up years later? Did you have to recoat? Any issues?
@patinacode
It’s holding up well . Yes there were a few spots to knock down and recover. It was expected , due to the truck being on the road . It wasn’t a major ordeal. I spent a weekend fixing it all up .
I’m still happy with the protection that it offers .
Dude‼️ Thank you for this‼️🦈❤
You’re welcome and thank you. 👍🏽
Hey man I want to get a bare metal finish on a harley. Tank and fenders. I don't want to trust a clear coat to last due to yellowing. How long does sharkhide last on sheet metal and does it have high maintenance?
Thank you. Exactly what I Been looking for
Glad it helped. 👍🏽
Thanks for watching.
I’m planning on doing my steel motorcycle gas tank. Zrx1100 Eddie Lawson Retro. Going for a different look other than Lime Green.
That’s going to look neat . 👍🏽
How did it work out in the long run? I've got a '67 C-10 StepSide, lots of bare metal. I live in wet, wet rainy weather. Is this my solution.?? Randy
It has held up well . The one thing that I can tell you is to be sure you apply it on a dry day with low humidity. If that is possible for you . Why that is important is because you don’t want to trap moisture underneath the coating. It will form rust underneath.
I’m doing another truck with bare fenders right now and I plan on using it again on this truck. I’m in Missouri and we have lots of rain in the spring and summer and I’ve driven in everything but snow with that truck and had no issues with the coating. One thing about it is that if you do get caught in the rain , wipe it down once you’re home. If you don’t you’ll have real bad water spots and they’re a bitch to clean off. It will take a lot of rubbing.
Other than that I like it and it has worked well for me .
Hope this helps, and thanks for checking out the video. 👍🏽
Truck looks cool as fck. Gonna use this stuff on my raw Sportster gas tank. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Cheers
Right on ! I thought about stripping my sportster and doing it to match the truck. My Iron is the factory flat silver, but to make it complete bare metal would by the perfect match for the truck. Let me know how your project turns out .
Thanks again. Glad the video was a help to you . Cheers 🍻
Dude, great video and sweet truck.
Could you spray and wipe the shark hide?
Thank you , and thank you . Yeah you can spray it and wipe it . I’ve washed it with my power washer , on the spray tip and washed it with soap to knock off road grit.
How do you get this bare metal so clean and shiny withou marks of a grinder?
I used a wire wheel brush attached to an angle grinder to get all of the old paint and rust off of the metal. Then started sanding with 60 grit all the way up to 3000 grit by hand . I done each panel individually off of the truck. I couldn’t use a block because the body has some dents and dings in it . By using my hand my fingers we’re following every contour, so that the sand lines would be consistent with the imperfections of the sheet metal.
I also followed the same sanding lines as the previous grit.
@@PatinaCodeMeans only the visible outer sheell is bare but inside might be some rust protection right? And how is the outer shell against weather conditions? I am living in a sunny area, less rain and if I dont take the car out usually
@@khancross
The protection is great. It’s been on the truck for a bit over 2 years , I’ve had no problems.
Now with that said , the truck isn’t out on the road every day either. I’ve had to touch up a few spots and those spots were due to a cat spraying on the truck.
@@PatinaCode And behind the body? Protection as usual with epoxy or so?
@@khancross
The small section where I knew that I wouldn’t be able to reach , which is the section where the front of the bed is , I painted, but the rest is all bare metal.
right on thanks great video - sick truck
You’re welcome and thank you for watching. 👍🏽
Would it last after getting caught in a rain storm or two?
Yes it will. It’s used a lot around here on pontoon boat’s to keep the aluminum logs or floats from oxidation.
I’ve ran this truck many times in the rain and have had no problems.
Eventually I’m going to have to do a strip and redcoat being it that the truck is on the highway and basically gets sandblasted every trip from road debris.
To answer your question, yes it will survive the rain.
Just be sure to apply the coating on a low humidity day , so you don’t trap moisture under the coating.
My project is this
I have a 2 tone black 24” rims 95% black with details unpainted
My truck is white and I want to strip the black off the wheels and go completely aluminum to be more like a chrome appearance
My plan is Aircraft remover to remove the faded old paint
Then I’m unsure of my next steps
Polish or wet sanding and clear coat
Any tips or ideas?
The wheels have brand new tires waiting for them the black rims just don’t look good on my white truck but I love the style
Sorry it took so long to respond. I’ve had to make some changes due to the arrival of my new born.
To be honest I’m not familiar with working aluminum wheels. I do know that it’s tricky . Sorry I’m not much help on that subject.
Wow this is awesome! Would you mind if I shared this video on our Facebook page?
No I wouldn’t mind at all . That would be awesome ! Thanks.
Taking a 95 f150 down to bare metal. Had to patch some rust outs on the fenders with fiberglass. Any ideas on how to make it look like bare metal. Thought about cutting the fiber work back out and doing something like with your chainsaw link idea. How’s you go about it and what about an aluminum paint over the fiber repair instead
Well brother I’ve never worked with fiberglass. I can’t honestly tell you how the aluminum paint would turn out over the fiberglass. I do know that it’s an art to getting it smooth and ready to accept paint.
I will say this though. Even if I knew how to work with fiberglass, I would still cut it out and patch the bad spot with metal.
The chain links I used on that truck are from 60 series chain. What I did was use a chain splitter to get the links apart and then I placed them where I wanted them , marked the spots, drilled the holes for the link studs to pass through, then welded them on from the back side .
Hope this helps you out and good luck with your project.👍🏽
DOES IT WORK OVER RUSTOLEUM WHICH DOES CRACK AND ALLOW RUST?
This product was designed to protect unpainted metals. I’m not sure if it’s safe to use on paint. The chemical make up of this product may react in a negative way and damage your finish.
looks streaky
Good looking truck!
Thank you .👍🏽
What did you use to get metal so shinny ?
I started with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. The truck was originally pink. After getting down to the bare metal with the wire wheel I began sanding by hand . I started with 60 grit then worked my way up to 600 grit. The trick is to sand in all one direction.
I may have missed this but how many quarts did you need to coat the entire truck? I'm having to order this stuff and want to avoid multiple shipments. Thanks
One quart covered my entire truck . I have about 4 or 5 ounces left out of the whole 32 ounce container.
Thanks for checking out the video , have a good day .
Yo bro totally awesome I’m from Missourias well
Thanks. It’s nice to meet a fellow Missourian. I know there’s tons of people into hot rods in this state , but rarely do I meet any of them over any of the social media. Kinda strange actually.
Great video dude
Thank you ! 🤘🏽🤘🏽
Hey man I'm doing my 02 tahoe like ur truck, not the entire truck but 80% of it lol something different and no one else has it here in el paso tx that is. I'm having a hard time getting the metal to look like ur truck. I still see scratches, iv start from 100 grit and up to 400 but still see scratches. I wanna get it smooth. Tips? Where can I send u a pic tell me what u think man
How I got the truck super smooth was started from 60 grit and worked all the way up to 2500 grit . Then used the 3M fine and super fine foam sanding pads . It took me 18 months to complete that truck.
If you have Instagram you can’t send pictures to me there @patina_code or Facebook @patinacode
Hello my friend. Thanks for this video. I have one question, though. Is this good to use on motorcycle engine covers? Would it not chip on hot surfaces?
I’m not sure how well it would hold up to the heat . I personally haven’t put it on anything other than the body of this truck.
Sorry it took me so long to respond.
@@PatinaCode alright. Thanks for you response, buddy. Be safe!
@@lorenzogarcia7373
You’re welcome and you be safe as well.
Do you have any tutorials on the steps you took to get this look my guy. I have taken my car yo bare metal and i want to polish the metal before i take to the body shop i al trying to get it as close as i can to being ready for the shop as possible. good job on ya work
Thanks for the kind words .
No I don’t have anything on how I got the truck down to bare .
I can tell you how I did it though.
I started with 60 grit sand paper then went to 80 , 120 , 160, 180 , 220 , 260 then 320. Then I started wet sanding at 400 grit then 600 ,800 ,1000 ,1500 2000 and ended with 3000 .
I sanded by hand in the same direction the whole truck . It took me 18 months to build it.
@@PatinaCode man I really appreciate that… i thought water on bare metal would rust the car out.while wet sading is there a special drying method or do i just dry it off with a microfiber towel
@@handson3223
Yes I kept a few dry microfiber towels near to wipe down the water .
Sorry it took so long to reply , I’ve been busy all day .
Sweat and beer will rust bare metal the fastest. Water will show rust over night .
One other thing to know about bare metal and putting any type of coating over it . You do not want to coat the metal on a humid day . Moisture will be trapped in the pores of the metal and then rust will form under the coating .
If you live in a humid climate area , you can heat the metal a bit to evaporate any moisture before coating.
@@PatinaCode That's some dedication man, and it really shows in the result. Nice when hard work pays off.
How does this product last on steel? I've thought of using it on cleaned up steel rather than swapping to stainless hardware.
It is holding up pretty well . The truck has been down the highway many times since I’ve coated it and I haven’t had any issues. The only advice that I have is that you want to be completely sure that the metal that you’re coating is completely clean and dry. You don’t want moisture trapped in the pores of the metal that will eventually creep to the surface after coating. So , as long as the metal is clean and dry , you will be just fine.
Great video! We're stripping down our truck now to do this style of finish. Question: What did you do for seamsealer? Anything?
The sealer I used on the drip rails is 3M Heavy Drip Check part number 08531.
The only other place where I have seam sealer is on the rear of the cab , inside where the back meets the floor . I picked up the seam sealer for that at my local body shop.
thank you for asking, didnt know about 3m heavy drip !!!
Aye man can I use this on polished metal? And where I can buy them, I like to try it instead of clear coat
Yes you can use it on polished metal. You can buy it from Amazon.
If I live near the ocean do you think this would last
I’d say that if you live by the ocean you would definitely want to have the metal in a professional paint booth the keep the humidity out of the metal before coating.
I know that may not be the answer you wanted to hear , but ocean air is tough to battle. Not sure if you could get the moisture out of the air even if you sealed off you garage.
Why do you coat with it? What is the function?
It’s to protect the metal from rusting . The function of the product is to create a barrier between the outside elements and the raw steel . It’s not permanent. Over time I will have to remove it and then reapply. I figure after 3 years it may be time to freshen it up.
Lmfao. Is that the old Sanford and Son truck? 😆
cool but man WTF wear a proper respirator, not a particle mask! LOL
Thanks for checking out the video. Yeah , the particle mask is sort of like when I switched from Camel nonfilter cigarettes to filtered. 😆😆
Yeah. That paper thing won't even stop the smell of the alcohol!
Is shark hide as penetrol by flood?
On bare metal it’s better than the Penetrol. The Penetrol will yellow on bare metal, the SharkHide doesn’t.
I like the Penetrol it’s pretty good stuff . It’s actually on the wood bed floor that I have in the truck .
What do you think about a clear epoxy? I want to put some mica pearl into a bare metal 55 dodge?
I’m not too familiar with epoxies. If the product that you want to use says that it will seal the surface , then you should be ok .
No matter what you want to cover bare metal with, make sure that the surface is completely clean and low humidity . The last thing you want to do is trap moisture that is in the pores of the metal.
@@PatinaCode thanks,. I'm in Az. And have it stripped and polished, still see scratches thru, and will be using wax and grease remover just prior. I love the bare metal look. That truck looks amazing. I'm not doing the whole car,. It's originally like a three color paint scheme on the 55 I'm doing and the top half of car will be bare and gonna try that dark blue color change spray on bottom. Sure like the truck very inspiring
@@sweetsketch3
Thank you . I was in Arizona for the get down this past November. Love the weather there . You build sounds pretty cool . When you get it done send me a picture, would like to see how it turns out .
I'm doing a raw metal finish on a 68 D100 Sweptline short but I don't think I want this sanding (grain( so fine looking for more of a fine brushed that shows the grain at like 15-20 ft.
Thinking maybe 300 grit but it's a 1st endeavor at not using the typical putty/prime, block, prime......paint.
A 300 grit would give you the brushed look . After I got the old paint off the truck I did it all by hand .
I just followed the body lines. I did it by hand so that way my fingers would flow along with the dips and bumps that are in the body.
Good luck to you and let me know how your project turns out.
Thanks for checking out the video.
So basically sharkhide is a ceramic coating
Something of the sort , yeah.
What about epoxy
I’m not familiar with epoxy and how it would hold up . Someone else asked me that same question. I believe his is going to go with an epoxy and I’ve asked him to share with me how it comes out . As soon as he does I’ll pass that info on to you as well .
@@PatinaCode I’m wanting to test it on a scrap metal door or something
Why is it you don't show case your rod man!
Honestly it’s not about the full on “exposure “ for me . I just like showing people different things that’s relevant to the rat rod / patina rod culture. I did make a video for UA-cam featuring this bare metal truck . If you want to see my builds just go to Instagram and look me up @patina_code . I’ve got tons of videos featuring all of my trucks .
Thanks for checking out the video.
❤️
Penetrol best
Penetrol does work well , but will yellow over time on bare metal.
Penetrol is designed to be used on wood , which it works great on that .
I tried Sharkhide on my bare metal truck. Does. Not. Work. For. $h!t. Complete waste of $77.94.
@Megan’s Garage
I’m sorry it didn’t work for you . I’ve had it on my truck since this video and I’ve had a few spots pop up . I attribute those to rock chips from going up and down the highway . Other than that I haven’t had any problems.
Do you recall if it was humid the day you were applying it ? One of the reasons that rust will start to show up under the coating is because there was moisture trapped in the pores of the metal.
No matter what coating you use , if there is high humidity, then it’s best to wait for the humidity to drop before sealing raw steel. There’s also other factors that could’ve played a part in the stuff not working , but Since you’re upset with me , I won’t drag this out.
Again, I’m sorry to hear that it didn’t work out for you . I wasn’t pushing the product, I don’t have any affiliation with the company, nor do I know anyone within that company, so I can’t refund , or get someone else to refund your money. I was just showing what I was using and demonstrating how to use it to protect my bare metal truck .
@@PatinaCode I'm preparing a test of a variety of different bare metal treatments, preparing and applying exactly as directed. Then we'll see which one can weather Seattle's winters. LOL
@@therealgaragegirls
Yeah , you’re in a tough area as far as humidity is concerned. I’d say Florida is right there as well. I’m in Missouri , so it’s not quite as humid.
You may want to try heating the metal just a bit to open the pores , then apply your coating. That won’t work with SharkHide, because it’s recommended to be applied in a cooler temperature.
I’m interested in your experiment. If you don’t mind let me know what you discover when you finish.
Ok come on guy get to the point, time is precious
Omg f this