For a test, you should be pleased with the result. Great idea using the broom for the pieces. As you seem to like char-black color, there is a method that is also used to "ebonize" wood. Fill a jar with a torn up steel wool pad and then fill that with simple white vinegar. Let this sit for a week or so shaking it from time to time. The vinegar/iron mixture will chemical react with the tannins in the wood to turn it black. Don't be afraid to apply this more than one time as necessary. Woods with more tannins work better. Oak is great for this, pine, not as well. It's cheap and works quite well. Something new for you to experiment with if you have the mind.
A few people have mentioned the steel wool in vinegar over past videos. I certainly need to give it a go. Anything that's designed to hide the pine look is so expensive so I'll take any home-made solution!
@@michaelwillson6847 It is the same solution. The nails, while really cheap if found in pallets, will take longer to dissolve than the wispy steel wool fibers.
Ahhh the common problem remaking your chess set once you tear yours up in a fit of rage. Thanks for the video I'll have this on speed dial once I tear mine up. :D
Seen on other videos that they put a recess near the top of the gluing sides, & glue beneath it. That way the glue won’t come out onto the top surface when you clamp it, any excess goes into the recess 👍
Looks great man. As I seen commented below, the ebonizing trick works great (vinegar and steel wool). If you have not tried it before I would give it a go if I was you. When I tried it, I didn't have to sand the finished piece much, so I am not too sure how deep it penetrates.
I know you say it didn’t work but I actually quite like the end result. Couple of tips for you always push the wood clear of the table saw blade with a push stick before picking it up. Try using meths instead of white spirit and if you hate your table saw so much why not use the track saw? Oh and just a heads up in case you didn’t see on Instagram, makers central 2024 dates are now set. You have to go. You can thank me later 😆
Cheers mate. Always happy to take onboard safety tips. These are the things you don't learn whilst watching youtube! I avoided the tracksaw as I wanted to make sure the grid was consistent. Even a mm out would have ruined it. I don't know if it was the right choice but the one thing that actually worked in this project was that the grid was aligned. Don't worry, I won't miss it next year!
Hi, not sure if someone else has already said but you should apply even pressure when using the table saw or at the least use the push stick on the section between the blade and the fence.
Yeah, I've been told! I appreciate all the feedback though. My supermarket table saw didn't exactly come with a guide book so can't thank you all enough for looking after me!
That's a really cool looking board. First time watching your channel, won't be the last. I actually made a chess board all from ash just last month. I used ebony dye for the contrast and it went pretty much exactly like this (except the ash was only 6mm thick so I glued it to a piece of plywood and used more ash for the border and sides) Sanding took off a good amount of the dye and it looks "distressed" as they used to say in home make-over shows on TV. I made the chess pieces too and was planning on lightly sanding the dyed pieces to make them match but ended up leaving them as black as possible. (my instagram woodworking account shouldn't be hard to find from my name if you're interested in seeing how similar it is!)
I'll check it out, sounds amazing! I love the finish that ash gives and just wish I could afford to use it more. Did you hand carve the chess pieces? I really need to use the distressed/rustic tags more! Adds a lot of appeal to projects that don't look so crisp 🤣🤣
@@justbswoodworking I turned the pieces on a small model-making lathe and did a little detailing with a dremel. My wife doesn't know how to play though so I might need to make some draughts as a backup to make the board actually useful!
@@justbswoodworking Pine just gets a red before it goes dark, the ebonizing liquid just accelerates the aging of the wood -- have you ever seen a 2x4 that's been sitting out in the rain for a long time? How they sort of look dull and gray? That's what happens with a ton of passes on a pine board. I used it on an alternating red oak and pine tabletop which resulted in the oak turning pitch black while the pine was more brownish gray. But I can only assume that the more time you leave the liquid on, the darker it would appear.
The thought did cross my mind. I have some left over epoxy and coated boards but I had to check myself. It would look amazing but (and this will sound strange) I didn't want to waste material on a 'scraps project'. It's a mindset I probably want to get out of! Cheers buddy
I just had to have a quick video search to find out what it is. That stuff looks stunning! I'm definitely going to be ordering some of that! Cheers for watching
Also your really want to have clamps in opposition so your middle clamp should be above the board which evens out the clamping pressure otherwise it can bow if all clamps are same way
I hope you don't take this the wrong way because it's really important. You really need to watch some instructional videos for table saw technique. The way you pushed the work piece at 01:40 is completely wrong, you left the work piece between the fence and the blade entirely unsupported. A riving knife will massively reduces risks of kickback but it can still happen and this is still absolutely terrible technique. You need to control the part that is between the blade and the fence, there is no way around it. Even on the next cut where you did push it, you're pushing too close to the fence, you need to push close to where the blade cuts, otherwise you can create a bad lever effect on the piece. You need to push the work piece towards the fence, not away from it. I highly recommend you watch (or rewatch) all of Steve Ramsey's table saw safety videos for example.
Not taken the wrong way at all, I appreciate the advice. I've watched hundreds of youtube videos on woodworking but you're never going to get them all. Anytime I'm being unsafe, please call me out on it and point me in the right direction. I appreciate you taking the time.
@@justbswoodworking I'm still a bit scared of mine and probably always wiil be. Other people call it 'healthy respect'. I call it abject terror. But SUCH a helpful tool... Steve Ramsey has all the helpful tips. Cheers.
For a test, you should be pleased with the result. Great idea using the broom for the pieces. As you seem to like char-black color, there is a method that is also used to "ebonize" wood. Fill a jar with a torn up steel wool pad and then fill that with simple white vinegar. Let this sit for a week or so shaking it from time to time. The vinegar/iron mixture will chemical react with the tannins in the wood to turn it black. Don't be afraid to apply this more than one time as necessary. Woods with more tannins work better. Oak is great for this, pine, not as well. It's cheap and works quite well. Something new for you to experiment with if you have the mind.
A few people have mentioned the steel wool in vinegar over past videos. I certainly need to give it a go. Anything that's designed to hide the pine look is so expensive so I'll take any home-made solution!
I've also been told never done it rusty pallet nails in veniger creates amazing finish 🤯
@@michaelwillson6847 It is the same solution. The nails, while really cheap if found in pallets, will take longer to dissolve than the wispy steel wool fibers.
@@billbris no just nails no steel wool. As say not sure how it's all chemical things but been told looks amazing on oak.
I might try and a comparison. I certainly have a lot of pallet nails!
I think it turned out great. A nice board to play checkers on for years to come! Cheers!
cheers buddy. I'll struggle to tear this one in two!
Another great video with a great result 👍
Cheers buddy!
Looks awesome. I'd use that over a standard store bought board any day.
Cheers mate, appreciate that
Looks cool 😊 another step on the experimentation journey - you know more for having tried than for purchasing
Very true! Plus, this one might stand up to my sore-losing a little better
Love the commentary. Good build, too.👍
Cheers buddy, appreciate that
Ahhh the common problem remaking your chess set once you tear yours up in a fit of rage. Thanks for the video I'll have this on speed dial once I tear mine up. :D
🤣🤣🤣 You never know when it could happen!
Happy there’s another video, sad it could be another week before the next one. Great to see your content buddy!
🤣🤣 Sadly that's the case. Stupid paid work getting in the way! Appreciate your time
I thought you did an amazing job on that board. And as usual, love your videos!
Cheers mate, really appreciate that.
Turned out well mate. A great experiment.
Cheers buddy, always nice to make use of those scraps
That looks amazing pal
cheers buddy!
Seen on other videos that they put a recess near the top of the gluing sides, & glue beneath it. That way the glue won’t come out onto the top surface when you clamp it, any excess goes into the recess 👍
To me it kinda looks like a board that your great grand pappy made long ago.
I like it.
Cheers mate. I know you lose contrast with the coloured waxes but I really like the aged feel you get.
Looks great man.
As I seen commented below, the ebonizing trick works great (vinegar and steel wool). If you have not tried it before I would give it a go if I was you. When I tried it, I didn't have to sand the finished piece much, so I am not too sure how deep it penetrates.
It's not going to cost the earth for me to find out... I'll do some experimenting! Cheers mate
I think the end result looks pretty good, even if you had to sand I think it turned out alright :)
Yeah it's one of those projects that I don't hate but don't love it either. To be honest, those are often the best as they get me thinking!
I know you say it didn’t work but I actually quite like the end result. Couple of tips for you always push the wood clear of the table saw blade with a push stick before picking it up.
Try using meths instead of white spirit and if you hate your table saw so much why not use the track saw?
Oh and just a heads up in case you didn’t see on Instagram, makers central 2024 dates are now set. You have to go. You can thank me later 😆
Cheers mate. Always happy to take onboard safety tips. These are the things you don't learn whilst watching youtube! I avoided the tracksaw as I wanted to make sure the grid was consistent. Even a mm out would have ruined it. I don't know if it was the right choice but the one thing that actually worked in this project was that the grid was aligned.
Don't worry, I won't miss it next year!
Hi, not sure if someone else has already said but you should apply even pressure when using the table saw or at the least use the push stick on the section between the blade and the fence.
Yeah, I've been told! I appreciate all the feedback though. My supermarket table saw didn't exactly come with a guide book so can't thank you all enough for looking after me!
Always good to keep all 9 remaining fingers
haha certainly is!
That's a really cool looking board. First time watching your channel, won't be the last.
I actually made a chess board all from ash just last month. I used ebony dye for the contrast and it went pretty much exactly like this (except the ash was only 6mm thick so I glued it to a piece of plywood and used more ash for the border and sides)
Sanding took off a good amount of the dye and it looks "distressed" as they used to say in home make-over shows on TV.
I made the chess pieces too and was planning on lightly sanding the dyed pieces to make them match but ended up leaving them as black as possible.
(my instagram woodworking account shouldn't be hard to find from my name if you're interested in seeing how similar it is!)
I'll check it out, sounds amazing! I love the finish that ash gives and just wish I could afford to use it more. Did you hand carve the chess pieces?
I really need to use the distressed/rustic tags more! Adds a lot of appeal to projects that don't look so crisp 🤣🤣
@@justbswoodworking I turned the pieces on a small model-making lathe and did a little detailing with a dremel.
My wife doesn't know how to play though so I might need to make some draughts as a backup to make the board actually useful!
look up an ebonizing tinccture. can be made with vinegar and some steel wool.
I've had a few people mention this and need to give it a try. Have you had good results with pine?
@@justbswoodworking Pine just gets a red before it goes dark, the ebonizing liquid just accelerates the aging of the wood -- have you ever seen a 2x4 that's been sitting out in the rain for a long time? How they sort of look dull and gray? That's what happens with a ton of passes on a pine board.
I used it on an alternating red oak and pine tabletop which resulted in the oak turning pitch black while the pine was more brownish gray.
But I can only assume that the more time you leave the liquid on, the darker it would appear.
Use your laser! 😊
I guess you could have done a small epoxy flood coat to lever out the top using one of those small kits.
The thought did cross my mind. I have some left over epoxy and coated boards but I had to check myself. It would look amazing but (and this will sound strange) I didn't want to waste material on a 'scraps project'. It's a mindset I probably want to get out of! Cheers buddy
I thought the same - or just multiple coats of a film finish like varnish, which, over many coats, would even out any unevenness
Is that drafts board set ok so the end?
No! I wanted to show a bit more contrast so set the pieces up on opposing colours. Good eye my friend!
You could try indian ink
I just had to have a quick video search to find out what it is. That stuff looks stunning! I'm definitely going to be ordering some of that! Cheers for watching
How tall is your table saw blade? It looks like it's too high you want to set the hight so the tooth doesn't leave the cut this will help with tearout
Also your really want to have clamps in opposition so your middle clamp should be above the board which evens out the clamping pressure otherwise it can bow if all clamps are same way
Yeah, agreed. I ended up clamping boards across the top after noticing the bowing but didn't include it in the video.
You could of used a pythography burner good video
I had no idea what this was and just googled it... now I want another toy! Cheers mate
I hope you don't take this the wrong way because it's really important. You really need to watch some instructional videos for table saw technique. The way you pushed the work piece at 01:40 is completely wrong, you left the work piece between the fence and the blade entirely unsupported. A riving knife will massively reduces risks of kickback but it can still happen and this is still absolutely terrible technique. You need to control the part that is between the blade and the fence, there is no way around it.
Even on the next cut where you did push it, you're pushing too close to the fence, you need to push close to where the blade cuts, otherwise you can create a bad lever effect on the piece. You need to push the work piece towards the fence, not away from it.
I highly recommend you watch (or rewatch) all of Steve Ramsey's table saw safety videos for example.
Not taken the wrong way at all, I appreciate the advice. I've watched hundreds of youtube videos on woodworking but you're never going to get them all. Anytime I'm being unsafe, please call me out on it and point me in the right direction. I appreciate you taking the time.
Next time try iron acetate (Steel wool & Vinegar) in a jar. It will ebonize the wood.
I've had a few people mention this and need to give it a try. Have you had good results with pine?
@@justbswoodworking Yes, it works. More applications make it as dark as you like.
Certainly giving this a go!
Nice one mate but your table saw technique gave me the willies, regardless of its quality. Just saying. Cheers.
Yeah, understood. After reading all the comments from you guys, I promise to watch some videos and improve my safety. Appreciate it
@@justbswoodworking I'm still a bit scared of mine and probably always wiil be. Other people call it 'healthy respect'. I call it abject terror. But SUCH a helpful tool... Steve Ramsey has all the helpful tips. Cheers.