so glad I found this video! I'm prepping to repaint my porch as well and there are so many different takes on things. glad I found a video that distilled it all down!❤
Perfect video. I am getting ready to paint the interior very old wooden cold porch and cellar stairs. I appreciated the thorough prep job that you did as well as the small area edging, rolling and smoothing out with the brush. I subscribed to your videos as this house is almost two hundred years old and there is always something to fix, paint and repair. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!
I just finished painting my detached screen porch floor last weekend. Then found your video-should have searched. Ether before starting. But happy to report I did all the things you suggested except filling in the gaps with putty. Not too Manaus and none dramatic so I think I’m ok. It was cool and dry in Charlotte last weekend so I figured it was a good time to get it done. Then the rains came and the air was hot and humid all week! It still feels a tad tacky (don’t we all?) but I went ahead and moved the Adirondack 13:15 chairs back in. I’ll take care not to slide them around! My cat is delighted to return to her favorite napping place and she loves the color-Benjamin Moore Hidden Falls.
I have been following this guide almost to the letter for my first time painting an exterior front porch wood floor on my own home. This video is informative, straightforward, easy to follow and enjoyable to watch and listen to-many thanks from a neighbour to the north! One problem I encountered was related to the application of silicone caulking: I found that the residue of silicone left behind on the painted wood surface after the grooves were filled was tricky for me to clean up. This would potentially have compromised the next stage and layer of painting of the floor. One idea or solution might be to mask the wood surface on either side of each groove, preventing stubborn silicone residue from “hiding”’ on the surface to be painted. Something worth mentioning as well is that paint does not adhere at all to silicone caulk, which is by definition water resistant ( I now realise this helps explain the slightly defensive “Yes, I’m using caulking…” as silicone caulking has become notorious for being unpaintable, which I discovered after a few Google searches). I had a bit of a runaround trying to find the right product to remove silicone residue, and I had a devil of a time trying to see where some of the residue might still be lingering on the surface, as any of it will interfere with good paint adherence of my floor surface. Thank you again for a great video-Happy porch painting to everyone watching, and enjoy your holidays (both the regular kind and the painting variety, from the days of ship painting and caulking 😉😊 www.esppainting.com/holiday-its-not-what-you-think-it-is/#:~:text=But%20what%20does%20the%20word,color%20of%20paint%20shows%20through.)
Hi ItsFixable, you mentioned a “good quality painter’s caulk”. Would this be a non-silicone caulking, then? Thank you for your video, response and channel! Best, M
I just read in the comments: DAP acrylic latex caulking “with silicone”! In looking for “good quality”, I was led to believe a silicone caulking would be better… I will now look for the DAP one you are using in the video. Thanks so much again! M
You did a good job with the prep...It's a shame so many people don't appreciate the hard work that goes into making a long lasting and well done project like this...30 + years of doing exterior woodwork renovations...:)...I could tell you some war stories...:)...Good health and freedom to you and yours!
@@ItsFixable It's tough to charge for it though, or rather it's tough to get people to pay for the time it requires to do it right...:)...That's why we make the big bucks!...[sarc off]....:)...
Great video I'm going to copy your technique. We just inherited a 100 year old house. The porch has been neglected for at least 60 years. Anything will be an improvement. Thanks for the info.
Fantastic. I'm a first time homeowner, young dad, and we've had this house about 4 years and the front wood porch needs a paint job, something I've never had to do. This video was really helpful and your front porch even has the same the color scheme as mine does (white and grey). Thank you!
Thanks for posting! This was a great video with simple instructions. I know I need to repaint the porch of my 100+ year old house, but it's intimidating! Can you tell me what that cute little scraper is that you used? We have many boards by the front stairs that need some attention. (They're definitely cupped, but I'm hoping they don't need to be replaced and can do with a simple scrape/filler/prime.) Can you also confirm that the DAP Acrylic Latex Caulk is paintable? Again, thanks so much!
I've had that little scraper for 30 yrs; there's no brand name on it. I'm sure you could fine something like it at the hardware or paint store. Yes, the DAP caulk I used is paintable. Just look at the labels carefully when you purchase because they also make some that are not, so don't get them confused. You can do it!
Some states, and even counties, regulate chemicals available for sale. I don't know about Arkansas, I'm in California and my county prevents a lot of products from being sold. But I can still get TSP!
Hehehe, it has been another 3 years, how is the porch holding up? The "Great" at the end almost made me choke on my coffee. Thank you for this video. It is still helpful all these years later. I can't wait to tackle my little porch. :)
The porch is looking great! I painted it again and posted this little update: ua-cam.com/users/shortsLbyhUZgiN5I?feature=share Best of success with yours!
What kind of filler did you use? And what kind of filler do you recommend for bigger gaps that may be walked on? 🚶♀️ I'm loving this video, I'm definitely a newbie and you explained everything so wonderful
This is incredibly helpful. Thank you! I’m getting ready to scrape peeling paint, chip out wood rot, fill, prime, and paint my porch. I’ve got 2 more porches to work in after that.
@@cinza6670 It’s raining here a lot too. Unfortunately my porch still hasn’t been finished. It’s an old house that wasn’t cared for properly by people who lived here previously. So much needs to be replaced instead of just patching. I hope yours is an easy job!
I just finished painting my hundred year old porch for the fifth time in 40 years. I tried a lot of crack fillers over the years that didn't last. This time I used Bondo Glass to fill the cracks and voids. I prewet the bared wood with carburator cleaner (acetone), laid down the Bondo and the sanded smooth. For large voids I inserted pieces of galvanized 1/2 x 1/2 inch wire fence material before Bondoing. A lot more work but it should last a lot longer.
The wire is an interesting idea. Did you fasten it to the wood or just glue it in with the Bondo? It'll be interesting to hear how well it lasts for you.
I used the fencing mesh mostly on breaks in the porch edge. I cut the 1/2 x 1/2 inch wire mesh a little larger than the void and pushed the open ends of the mesh into the wood. This worked well to hold the Bondo Glass (the glass fibers make a difference). I actually did some repairs this way three years ago and they were still perfect for this year's paint job. Also: I bleached the areas to be repaired, allowed them to dry, and then wet them with the carburator cleaner (spray can) immediately before applying the Bondo. I filled in the open spaces in the tongue and groove 100 year planks (cedar or redwood) to limit movement and possibly make the paint job last.
Hi! Thank you for a very interesting and infor video. I plan on painting my backporch very similar to yours. Did I miss a portion of your video where you advise the brand and type of paint you used? I assume it is porch and deck paint, but is there a particular brand that you prefer to use? Thanks very much. 😇
I have no particular preference on brand, though somewhere in the comments below I answered that. But yes, you want to be sure to use a paint engineered for porch and floor use.
Thank you so much! Much of painting is in the preperation. Be patient with the little details and your job will turn out great. Best of success to you.
@@ItsFixable Your careful and precise way of doing things really helped me to understand what professionalism is! Thanks again!!! I now really understand prep is so important
Don't forget to put a plastic tarp over any glass like on that nice door in your video, TSP etches glass even from light splash's while rinsing off after using the cleaner.
Just some advise ,before I paint my porch .I power wash then take a car wash brush with handle and dawn dish soap and wash it down and hose off so I am never on my knees .I sand with electric sander were it needs it. .but I always prep the day before. Then just dust off porch and paint . everything is done with pole handles. Being on my knees at 54. Isn't possible .
The object is to prime all bare wood including the cracks, then caulk afterward. Primer helps both the caulking and the finish coat of paint adhere to the surface.
@@bryangelb507 You want a paint designed for porch or floors use. When properly cured, these paint develop a hard surface that'll withstand traffic. Regular house paint won't. A good paint store should offer such and guide you with selection.
There are a lot of good products out there. I happen to use Zinsser Bulls Eye primer, it functions in a lot of differing situations so I keep it on my shelf. The finish coat is Benjamin Moore Latex Floor & Patio Enamel.
Nothing special other than keeping cracks caulked and painted. The plinths and capitals are actually non-structural. They are collars that coral the column passing through to both the foundation and the header beam where the column is bolted through. This is a non-traditional column attachment. While the columns are actual antique elements from a demolished 1800's house, they were added to this vintage 70's home when the porch was added.
There are a lot of good products out there. I happen to use Zinsser Bulls Eye primer, it functions in a lot of differing situations so I keep it on my shelf. The finish coat is Benjamin Moore Latex Floor & Patio Enamel. I believe I used DAP Painter's Acrylic Latex caulk.
Great vid! Whats the best primer to use under INSL-X Tough Shield Floor and Patio Paint? Im dealing with some aged & weathered wood im trying to preserve.thanks!
I'm not familiar with that product but typically, if using and oil based enamel you want an oil based primer, and if using an acrylic based enamel you want a water based primer. The type of aged bare wood can make a difference too; resinous woods, acidic woods, and so on. Talk to your local paint pro shop. They're the best resource.
Those are water based products, therefore I use nylon bristle brushes; small sash brush for working the primer into the cracks, 3" wall brush for cutting-in and smoothing the surface. Roller is a 1/2" nap, synthetic wool.
@itsfixable I am doing front steps. They get a lot of traffic and water. Is enamel the right latex finish? Want it to be hard but not slick. 2nd: thinking of tacking or glueing down some sort of tread after painting? Thoughts?
Go to a paint retailer and purchase paint specifically made for decks, floors, etc. Regular latex enamel will not stand up to foot traffic. Porch and floor paint is much tougher. I have used a lot of various non-skid materials and they do help reduce potential slippage, primarily valuable when the surface is wet. But I have found that they don't last well. Due to the added friction they create, the material scuffs away or peals off. My experience is that paint additives have the shortest life; 2 yrs maybe under high traffic. The best I've achieved using textured adhesive strips or tapes is about 3 yrs, but these are easier to re-apply. But if slip-and-fall is of significant concern it's worth using something.
@@ItsFixable yes I would use floor and porch ... I was referring to your choice BM latex porch/patio with enamel finish. Would enamel finish make it more slick? Or is it easier to clean? or purely appearance? Thanks very much!
Sometimes the product manufacturer provides specific recommendations on the label for the best timing of a second coat. Usually the first coat needs to be fully dry. A week isn't generally necessary.
"Summer time, dry air". Once he said that I didn't need video to know he isn't in the North East. I could see the humidity in the air on many days this summer here in Columbia County NY, but that's par for the corse.
San Francisco Bay Area, morning fog in the summer half the time, it can be damp. But humidity usually drops to the 60% range in the afternoon. We've had a lot more dry air this past decade though. Hence all the fires.
The two most common approaches are sanding and chemical stripping. Sanding involves using floor sanders as you would any hardwood floor. The problem is that if you have cupping of any boards, which is common on a porch, those board's groove side edges become thin and tend to splinter off when walked upon. Chemical stripping is tedious, especially if you want to remove every trace of paint in cracks and crevices. I'm not sure why you'd want to remove the paint if it is a standard fir or pine 3" T&G. These materials are not considered decorative for the purpose of clear finishing, nor do they offer the resilience and strength of hardwood which is what typically receives a clear finish. Their use back in the day was primarily as subflooring and the builder planned to overlay it with other decorative material, or in the case of a porch simply paint it.
You're only the second person I've heard say "holidays" in reference to a paint job. The first was my step dad back in the seventies. I've used it ever since whenever doing paint jobs throughout my working life, but only got quizzical looks...
Good job, looks great. Question: if painting between wood decks is needed and you need to use a brush to do that and once you are on your knees already, would it be easier to just keep painting the whole deck with the same brush instead of using roller and then the brush afterwards? I am confused. Please advise. Need to stain a large deck and would like to know if should only use brush which will take forever or use roller and then brush like you did.
When painting a large surface, its easier to control a roller in applying a uniform quantity quickly across it. The brush simply smooths the surface and eliminates the orange peel texture which the roller leaves and it then blends better at the edges where you cut in with the brush. Stain is different. It is typically thinner than paint and the roller won't leave a texture that's any different than a brush. The main challenge with a stain is color; keep the solids suspended by frequent stirring or the look will vary across the surface no matter what tool you use to apply it. If you really want to speed things up, use an airless sprayer.
I'm unsure about the priming part, and I'm reading mostly things that say don't prime. I don't like the idea of paint over bare wood, but I also don't know if primer is made for walking and furniture. The shwerin williams can does say to sand, though. I will do that after TSP, and vacuum, wipe down a second time.
The best approach is to follow whatever the particular paint manufactures' recommends are for the product you're using. But here's the deal, if you need to use caulking or fillers, most don't work well on bare wood. you'll get better adhesion if you prime any bare wood where you'll be caulking. Or of course you can caulk after painting with the finish once it's dry, then touch up those areas with the color coat when the caulking dries.
The crevices are very narrow, and as seen in the video, the caulk is pressed into the crack and then wiped off the surface and nothing is left to peel away later. That's why it's also important to remove any loose material before filling the crevices.
I appreciate all the work but anyone who has painted a lot of porches has long since given up on Benjamin Moore porch and floor it just doesn't hold up. Also DAP caulking is lousy Sherwin-Williams caulking is far superior especially the premium 55 here caulking
The best porch paint I ever used was Debco, a brand that dissapeared long ago when California started forcing certain chemical products out. But that stuff was tuff as nails!
so glad I found this video! I'm prepping to repaint my porch as well and there are so many different takes on things. glad I found a video that distilled it all down!❤
I'm pleased you've found it valuable.
A remote controlled shop-vac!! Now I've seen everything!! Gotta get me one of those. 👍
I just want to say THANK YOU for your chapters. This is so seriously appreciated. I wish more people would add chapters to videos like this!
You are most welcome. I like making it easy for people to locate the information they need.
This man knows what he is talking about
Great video. I love how you just got straight to the point and didnt add a lot of fluff at all. Very helpful 🙂
I'm pleased it was of help to you. 🙂
thanks for your time and effort preparing the video. its very helpful. Not a project I'm looking forward to but I gotta get er done.
You can do it!
Perfect video. I am getting ready to paint the interior very old wooden cold porch and cellar stairs. I appreciated the thorough prep job that you did as well as the small area edging, rolling and smoothing out with the brush. I subscribed to your videos as this house is almost two hundred years old and there is always something to fix, paint and repair. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!
I'm glad you found it valuable. And thanks for subscribing. Yep, with an old house you never run out of things to fix.
I just finished painting my detached screen porch floor last weekend. Then found your video-should have searched. Ether before starting. But happy to report I did all the things you suggested except filling in the gaps with putty. Not too Manaus and none dramatic so I think I’m ok. It was cool and dry in Charlotte last weekend so I figured it was a good time to get it done. Then the rains came and the air was hot and humid all week! It still feels a tad tacky (don’t we all?) but I went ahead and moved the Adirondack 13:15 chairs back in. I’ll take care not to slide them around!
My cat is delighted to return to her favorite napping place and she loves the color-Benjamin Moore Hidden Falls.
Thank you so much for your clear instructions. I have a large front porch and I have been sanding like crazy, but am now following your process.
I'm glad you found this useful.
I have been following this guide almost to the letter for my first time painting an exterior front porch wood floor on my own home. This video is informative, straightforward, easy to follow and enjoyable to watch and listen to-many thanks from a neighbour to the north!
One problem I encountered was related to the application of silicone caulking: I found that the residue of silicone left behind on the painted wood surface after the grooves were filled was tricky for me to clean up. This would potentially have compromised the next stage and layer of painting of the floor.
One idea or solution might be to mask the wood surface on either side of each groove, preventing stubborn silicone residue from “hiding”’ on the surface to be painted.
Something worth mentioning as well is that paint does not adhere at all to silicone caulk, which is by definition water resistant ( I now realise this helps explain the slightly defensive “Yes, I’m using caulking…” as silicone caulking has become notorious for being unpaintable, which I discovered after a few Google searches). I had a bit of a runaround trying to find the right product to remove silicone residue, and I had a devil of a time trying to see where some of the residue might still be lingering on the surface, as any of it will interfere with good paint adherence of my floor surface.
Thank you again for a great video-Happy porch painting to everyone watching, and enjoy your holidays (both the regular kind and the painting variety, from the days of ship painting and caulking 😉😊 www.esppainting.com/holiday-its-not-what-you-think-it-is/#:~:text=But%20what%20does%20the%20word,color%20of%20paint%20shows%20through.)
Do NOT use silicone caulk everyone!
Hi ItsFixable, you mentioned a “good quality painter’s caulk”. Would this be a non-silicone caulking, then? Thank you for your video, response and channel! Best, M
I just read in the comments: DAP acrylic latex caulking “with silicone”!
In looking for “good quality”, I was led to believe a silicone caulking would be better… I will now look for the DAP one you are using in the video. Thanks so much again! M
You did a good job with the prep...It's a shame so many people don't appreciate the hard work that goes into making a long lasting and well done project like this...30 + years of doing exterior woodwork renovations...:)...I could tell you some war stories...:)...Good health and freedom to you and yours!
Many thanks ROB-IN-PHILLY! Yep, I learned a long time ago that 90% of the work in a quality paint job happens before you even open the paint can.
@@ItsFixable It's tough to charge for it though, or rather it's tough to get people to pay for the time it requires to do it right...:)...That's why we make the big bucks!...[sarc off]....:)...
@@godbluffvdgg fortunately there are few who do though. And I hope a venue like this helps educate others.
Great video
I'm going to copy your technique.
We just inherited a 100 year old house.
The porch has been neglected for at least 60 years.
Anything will be an improvement.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks, and best of success on your project!
Thank you for this, the editing was perfect.
Thank you too!
Great video! Thank you for doing it. I'm painting my front porch this week. Your video is right on time.
Thanks. I'm sure you'll do a fabulous job. All the best!
Just about to start my porch painting, thank you this streamlined my process!
Wonderful!
Wow such a detailed explaination! You really did an amazing job here. I want to repaint my upper deck. This gave me some great pointers.
Thanks. Go for it!
Great video, Thank you for posting this.
This will.help.me with my porch floor.
Glad it helped
This was very useful and informative as I renovate my 1930s home i need to restore the old tongue and groove deck and now i know how to do it!
I'm pleased you've found it useful 🙂
Fantastic. I'm a first time homeowner, young dad, and we've had this house about 4 years and the front wood porch needs a paint job, something I've never had to do. This video was really helpful and your front porch even has the same the color scheme as mine does (white and grey). Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Wow! Nice job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the great tips!
You bet!
Thanks for posting! This was a great video with simple instructions. I know I need to repaint the porch of my 100+ year old house, but it's intimidating! Can you tell me what that cute little scraper is that you used? We have many boards by the front stairs that need some attention. (They're definitely cupped, but I'm hoping they don't need to be replaced and can do with a simple scrape/filler/prime.)
Can you also confirm that the DAP Acrylic Latex Caulk is paintable?
Again, thanks so much!
I've had that little scraper for 30 yrs; there's no brand name on it. I'm sure you could fine something like it at the hardware or paint store. Yes, the DAP caulk I used is paintable. Just look at the labels carefully when you purchase because they also make some that are not, so don't get them confused.
You can do it!
Great video and beautiful job on the porch!
Thanks!🙂
That is a good porch. I have that same vertical rain douglas fir. It is old growth with tight grain. With the TSP, I rinse it.
The best there is!
Can you still find TSP? In Arkansas all I can find is the TSP substitute. I'm not impressed by the substitute. Great video.
Some states, and even counties, regulate chemicals available for sale. I don't know about Arkansas, I'm in California and my county prevents a lot of products from being sold. But I can still get TSP!
Hehehe, it has been another 3 years, how is the porch holding up? The "Great" at the end almost made me choke on my coffee. Thank you for this video. It is still helpful all these years later. I can't wait to tackle my little porch. :)
The porch is looking great! I painted it again and posted this little update: ua-cam.com/users/shortsLbyhUZgiN5I?feature=share
Best of success with yours!
Great video and thanks for your help! For your prep, how long did you wait after using the TSP before starting on the primer?
Just until the surface was dry. Glad I could help!
What kind of filler did you use? And what kind of filler do you recommend for bigger gaps that may be walked on? 🚶♀️ I'm loving this video, I'm definitely a newbie and you explained everything so wonderful
I used DAP All Purpose Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone (40 year). For a hard filler I'd probably use Bondo.
Great video. Exactly what I was hoping to see. Thank you!
Great to hear!
This is incredibly helpful. Thank you! I’m getting ready to scrape peeling paint, chip out wood rot, fill, prime, and paint my porch. I’ve got 2 more porches to work in after that.
I need to do this
Getting started spring 2024. I am just going to do my best between the rain 🌧
@@cinza6670 It’s raining here a lot too. Unfortunately my porch still hasn’t been finished. It’s an old house that wasn’t cared for properly by people who lived here previously. So much needs to be replaced instead of just patching. I hope yours is an easy job!
I just finished painting my hundred year old porch for the fifth time in 40 years. I tried a lot of crack fillers over the years that didn't last. This time I used Bondo Glass to fill the cracks and voids. I prewet the bared wood with carburator cleaner (acetone), laid down the Bondo and the sanded smooth. For large voids I inserted pieces of galvanized 1/2 x 1/2 inch wire fence material before Bondoing. A lot more work but it should last a lot longer.
The wire is an interesting idea. Did you fasten it to the wood or just glue it in with the Bondo? It'll be interesting to hear how well it lasts for you.
I used the fencing mesh mostly on breaks in the porch edge. I cut the 1/2 x 1/2 inch wire mesh a little larger than the void and pushed the open ends of the mesh into the wood. This worked well to hold the Bondo Glass (the glass fibers make a difference). I actually did some repairs this way three years ago and they were still perfect for this year's paint job. Also: I bleached the areas to be repaired, allowed them to dry, and then wet them with the carburator cleaner (spray can) immediately before applying the Bondo. I filled in the open spaces in the tongue and groove 100 year planks (cedar or redwood) to limit movement and possibly make the paint job last.
Hi! Thank you for a very interesting and infor video. I plan on painting my backporch very similar to yours. Did I miss a portion of your video where you advise the brand and type of paint you used? I assume it is porch and deck paint, but is there a particular brand that you prefer to use? Thanks very much. 😇
I have no particular preference on brand, though somewhere in the comments below I answered that. But yes, you want to be sure to use a paint engineered for porch and floor use.
Great video!
I am a first time painter and so nervous. This is such an instructive and well articulated video
Thank you so much!
Much of painting is in the preperation. Be patient with the little details and your job will turn out great. Best of success to you.
@@ItsFixable Your careful and precise way of doing things really helped me to understand what professionalism is! Thanks again!!! I now really understand prep is so important
Don't forget to put a plastic tarp over any glass like on that nice door in your video, TSP etches glass even from light splash's while rinsing off after using the cleaner.
Good job
Thanks
Nice and clear instructions 👌
Thank you 🙂, glad you liked it!
Just some advise ,before I paint my porch .I power wash then take a car wash brush with handle and dawn dish soap and wash it down and hose off so I am never on my knees .I sand with electric sander were it needs it. .but I always prep the day before. Then just dust off porch and paint . everything is done with pole handles. Being on my knees at 54. Isn't possible .
Definitely use a porch cleaner that kills mold and mildew. Dawn won’t cut it. Even if you can’t see the mildew or algae, it can ruin your porch
Nicely done!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for this.
Great Video! Question for you: when priming, does one prime ONLY on the wood, and do caulking in the cracks between?
The object is to prime all bare wood including the cracks, then caulk afterward. Primer helps both the caulking and the finish coat of paint adhere to the surface.
Thank you
You're welcome
Question?
What's the best type of paint to use for a porch just like yours?
I'm not asking for a brand name, but if you have one, I'll take it.
@@bryangelb507 You want a paint designed for porch or floors use. When properly cured, these paint develop a hard surface that'll withstand traffic. Regular house paint won't. A good paint store should offer such and guide you with selection.
Thanks again
Love the channel’s name! ❤️
Thanks!
Very thorough and helpful, thank you! May I ask what brand of primer and paint you recommend?
There are a lot of good products out there. I happen to use Zinsser Bulls Eye primer, it functions in a lot of differing situations so I keep it on my shelf. The finish coat is Benjamin Moore Latex Floor & Patio Enamel.
@@ItsFixable Is the finish coat matte, gloss, or semi gloss? Which do you think works best for a painted porch floor?
great job . nice detail can i use a paint &primer in one thak you
What I've presented here is my prefered approach.
@@ItsFixable thanks
Great video. Many thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
This was very helpful, thank you! Do you do any regular maintenance on the porch columns to minimize those cracks around the base?
Nothing special other than keeping cracks caulked and painted. The plinths and capitals are actually non-structural. They are collars that coral the column passing through to both the foundation and the header beam where the column is bolted through. This is a non-traditional column attachment. While the columns are actual antique elements from a demolished 1800's house, they were added to this vintage 70's home when the porch was added.
I am so excited I found this video. May I ask what kind of roller you used?
Synthetic, 1/2" nap, but almost any will work. Just be sure to de-fuzz the roller first.
Does this same rule apply if I want to change the color of the porch from what was there previously?
Yes! Exactly as seen in my update video: ua-cam.com/users/shortsLbyhUZgiN5I?si=DuIe6ZH1aWyX0MXH
Very helpful thanks.
You're welcome!
After waiting 24 hours to paint after priming and caulking, did you wash or clean the surface again?
No Chris I didn't, but I did use a foxtail brush to dust areas off.
Would love to know the exact caulk and paint that you used?
There are a lot of good products out there. I happen to use Zinsser Bulls Eye primer, it functions in a lot of differing situations so I keep it on my shelf. The finish coat is Benjamin Moore Latex Floor & Patio Enamel.
I believe I used DAP Painter's Acrylic Latex caulk.
@@ItsFixable thank you, fantastic video, I am tackling this project soon while the weather is cool.....great channel...
Thanks. Glad you've found it useful.
Great vid! Whats the best primer to use under INSL-X Tough Shield Floor and Patio Paint? Im dealing with some aged & weathered wood im trying to preserve.thanks!
I'm not familiar with that product but typically, if using and oil based enamel you want an oil based primer, and if using an acrylic based enamel you want a water based primer. The type of aged bare wood can make a difference too; resinous woods, acidic woods, and so on. Talk to your local paint pro shop. They're the best resource.
@@ItsFixable Thanks, I did exactly that, and they said the same thing you said! Ill be getting the water based. Thanks for the reply
Can you tell us the brand of caulking you used to fill the cracks? Thanks!
Sure, DAP All Purpose Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone (40 year).
What kind of brush did you use and what nap roller?
Those are water based products, therefore I use nylon bristle brushes; small sash brush for working the primer into the cracks, 3" wall brush for cutting-in and smoothing the surface. Roller is a 1/2" nap, synthetic wool.
@itsfixable I am doing front steps. They get a lot of traffic and water. Is enamel the right latex finish? Want it to be hard but not slick. 2nd: thinking of tacking or glueing down some sort of tread after painting? Thoughts?
Go to a paint retailer and purchase paint specifically made for decks, floors, etc. Regular latex enamel will not stand up to foot traffic. Porch and floor paint is much tougher.
I have used a lot of various non-skid materials and they do help reduce potential slippage, primarily valuable when the surface is wet. But I have found that they don't last well. Due to the added friction they create, the material scuffs away or peals off. My experience is that paint additives have the shortest life; 2 yrs maybe under high traffic. The best I've achieved using textured adhesive strips or tapes is about 3 yrs, but these are easier to re-apply. But if slip-and-fall is of significant concern it's worth using something.
@@ItsFixable yes I would use floor and porch ... I was referring to your choice BM latex porch/patio with enamel finish. Would enamel finish make it more slick? Or is it easier to clean? or purely appearance? Thanks very much!
@@wkimzey Yes, it looks nicer and is easier to clean. Not sure it's noticeably more slippery. It will dull down with wear.
If I need to put down two coats, do I have to wait a week so I won't damage the first coat by walking on it?
Sometimes the product manufacturer provides specific recommendations on the label for the best timing of a second coat. Usually the first coat needs to be fully dry. A week isn't generally necessary.
"Summer time, dry air". Once he said that I didn't need video to know he isn't in the North East. I could see the humidity in the air on many days this summer here in Columbia County NY, but that's par for the corse.
San Francisco Bay Area, morning fog in the summer half the time, it can be damp. But humidity usually drops to the 60% range in the afternoon. We've had a lot more dry air this past decade though. Hence all the fires.
haha, I'm in Pennsylvania. We have humidity in winter.
We have 3" tongue & groove porch which was painted. But rather than repaint, we want to remove that paint. What would you recommend?
The two most common approaches are sanding and chemical stripping. Sanding involves using floor sanders as you would any hardwood floor. The problem is that if you have cupping of any boards, which is common on a porch, those board's groove side edges become thin and tend to splinter off when walked upon.
Chemical stripping is tedious, especially if you want to remove every trace of paint in cracks and crevices.
I'm not sure why you'd want to remove the paint if it is a standard fir or pine 3" T&G. These materials are not considered decorative for the purpose of clear finishing, nor do they offer the resilience and strength of hardwood which is what typically receives a clear finish. Their use back in the day was primarily as subflooring and the builder planned to overlay it with other decorative material, or in the case of a porch simply paint it.
Could have hung bed sheets for shade. Nice.
Not a bad idea 👍
How much would you charge to do this today? Materials not included
Well, I've been retired for over a decade so I don't know what the current going rates are. But, labor wise my porch was required about 12 hours.
You're only the second person I've heard say "holidays" in reference to a paint job. The first was my step dad back in the seventies. I've used it ever since whenever doing paint jobs throughout my working life, but only got quizzical looks...
I guess that makes us old-timers 😉
An old Navy term. Learned it from my US Navy Dad WW II. And I’m 82.
@@jmcrowleygm That makes a lot of sense, my step dad was in the Navy. Thank you!
What kind off caulk should I use ? Ty
I believe I used DAP Painter's Acrylic Latex caulk.
@@ItsFixable ok thanks for replying
Walter White did a Good Job, Painting that Porch!
Good for Home Work
not for the Client
washing part is important , on walking aerials Stain has more durability than Paint .
Good luck 🤠
Good job, looks great.
Question: if painting between wood decks is needed and you need to use a brush to do that and once you are on your knees already, would it be easier to just keep painting the whole deck with the same brush instead of using roller and then the brush afterwards?
I am confused.
Please advise.
Need to stain a large deck and would like to know if should only use brush which will take forever or use roller and then brush like you did.
When painting a large surface, its easier to control a roller in applying a uniform quantity quickly across it. The brush simply smooths the surface and eliminates the orange peel texture which the roller leaves and it then blends better at the edges where you cut in with the brush. Stain is different. It is typically thinner than paint and the roller won't leave a texture that's any different than a brush. The main challenge with a stain is color; keep the solids suspended by frequent stirring or the look will vary across the surface no matter what tool you use to apply it. If you really want to speed things up, use an airless sprayer.
@@ItsFixable Makes sense. Thanks.
What color is the paint you used to paint your porch?
Obviously a gray, but I don't remember what its called.
What is your primer on this porch?
I think I used a Zinsser product.
I'm unsure about the priming part, and I'm reading mostly things that say don't prime. I don't like the idea of paint over bare wood, but I also don't know if primer is made for walking and furniture.
The shwerin williams can does say to sand, though. I will do that after TSP, and vacuum, wipe down a second time.
The best approach is to follow whatever the particular paint manufactures' recommends are for the product you're using. But here's the deal, if you need to use caulking or fillers, most don't work well on bare wood. you'll get better adhesion if you prime any bare wood where you'll be caulking. Or of course you can caulk after painting with the finish once it's dry, then touch up those areas with the color coat when the caulking dries.
Why not replacing it with concrete?
That seems an excessive approach.
.
👍🏼
Thanks
You’re painting over all that caulk? Isn’t it gonna just peel up?!
The crevices are very narrow, and as seen in the video, the caulk is pressed into the crack and then wiped off the surface and nothing is left to peel away later. That's why it's also important to remove any loose material before filling the crevices.
I appreciate all the work but anyone who has painted a lot of porches has long since given up on Benjamin Moore porch and floor it just doesn't hold up. Also DAP caulking is lousy Sherwin-Williams caulking is far superior especially the premium 55 here caulking
The best porch paint I ever used was Debco, a brand that dissapeared long ago when California started forcing certain chemical products out. But that stuff was tuff as nails!
Which floor paint do you recommend?
This dude is a moonbeam. Not only does he wash the wall, he assumes their is oil and greese on the porch. Add. for sure. Hope he is single.
😊
🤗👋🏿👋🏿👋🏿👍🏿👍🏿🤗
I wouldn’t caulk it.