My TR6 came with almost nothing. I had to buy those front directionals cost like $500 for the two. I've seen the tail lights go for about the same. Fortunately those came with my car. Those side markers were originally painted chrome around the perimeter. Thanks for going through all the pains of reassembling your TR6 it's going to make things much simpler for me when I go to reassemble mine.
The crome perimeter was only on the late TR6. I think after 75. I am not such a big purist, but since the car will be for sale eventually I'd like to put it as close as possible to the original.
Interesting. I didn't know that. That's what happens when one buys a car that is little more than a shell. Disregard my similar comment on a later video.
Elin, love your vids! Overspray wet sand with 800-1000 then machine polish with a polishing compound. You don't need to beat yourself up with all of the manual labor. You have the grinders you just need the arbors for the polishing buffing
Hi Elin, another great video, I've used thinners to remove overspray before, the only other option I could think of was a light sand and polish. Keep up the great work.
I understand why you went for the thinners. I was thinking about it again and you may be able to use a cutting compound like Tcut to take off overspray. I'm not criticising you just saying it might work.
Was glad to see you go from polishing over-spray to removing. Had to do the same thing on a project. I got good results doing a light wet sand with 2000 grit.
I thought about sanding it, but the whole engine bay is a little grainy as we used some kind of undercoating first and then sprayed the color on top (not my idea) so sanding it wouldn't help.
I've recently found that the rough, thin 'paint' on my black Alfa was actually overspray- I was using a claybar to remove some silver overspray that I stupidly coated the side of the car with, and found that the claybar was taking off the roughness, leaving behind the original paint. After that I polished and waxed. You may have been able to use claybar, also. Laquer thinner is too strong and you need to be careful, as you found out. Something much better is Goof Off, which takes residue from decals or stickers off of most surfaces, and it's not as strong as thinner. Laquer thinner is great for cleaning up wiring harnesses though; takes off the old grease and dirt and makes the colored wires shine. I learned that from Classic Motorsports a few years back, and used it to great effect.
No idea what the name of the shop is. Jake was dealing with them. Actually the thinner wasn't even strong enough, I needed something stronger. Maybe because the surface is grainy... But it was really hard to remove the overspray
I am enjoying your rebuild as I have some partial experience with 2 previous TR6s. Would it be possible to see the video where you dismantled the wood dash from the car? Thx!
Elin food for thought when you install the front cross member since you have the tools shave some of the metal off the front where the fan belt goes this way if necessary you can change the fan belt without having to take the cross member off because the belt can't pass through it .Not my idea saw it on another forum looks fine and works good
My TR6 came with almost nothing. I had to buy those front directionals cost like $500 for the two. I've seen the tail lights go for about the same. Fortunately those came with my car. Those side markers were originally painted chrome around the perimeter. Thanks for going through all the pains of reassembling your TR6 it's going to make things much simpler for me when I go to reassemble mine.
The crome perimeter was only on the late TR6. I think after 75. I am not such a big purist, but since the car will be for sale eventually I'd like to put it as close as possible to the original.
Interesting. I didn't know that. That's what happens when one buys a car that is little more than a shell. Disregard my similar comment on a later video.
Wow, you pulled more in one video than I did in 2 months, ha!
:) I just make it look like that LOL
Super awesome videos brotha!!! They have helped tons!!! Use denatured alcohol to remove overspray..
Elin, love your vids! Overspray wet sand with 800-1000 then machine polish with a polishing compound. You don't need to beat yourself up with all of the manual labor. You have the grinders you just need the arbors for the polishing buffing
Thank you! Sanding wouldn't work well though, because the surface was grainy and I would be able to sand only the high and not the low parts.
Hi Elin, another great video, I've used thinners to remove overspray before, the only other option I could think of was a light sand and polish. Keep up the great work.
Thanks! Sanding wouldn't work well, because the surface was grainy and I would be able to sand only the high and not the low parts
I understand why you went for the thinners. I was thinking about it again and you may be able to use a cutting compound like Tcut to take off overspray. I'm not criticising you just saying it might work.
Was glad to see you go from polishing over-spray to removing. Had to do the same thing on a project. I got good results doing a light wet sand with 2000 grit.
I thought about sanding it, but the whole engine bay is a little grainy as we used some kind of undercoating first and then sprayed the color on top (not my idea) so sanding it wouldn't help.
Oh, Oh, Oh. I wish my car was that close! Awesome!
It will be soon!
great video as always!
Thank you!
I've recently found that the rough, thin 'paint' on my black Alfa was actually overspray- I was using a claybar to remove some silver overspray that I stupidly coated the side of the car with, and found that the claybar was taking off the roughness, leaving behind the original paint. After that I polished and waxed. You may have been able to use claybar, also. Laquer thinner is too strong and you need to be careful, as you found out. Something much better is Goof Off, which takes residue from decals or stickers off of most surfaces, and it's not as strong as thinner. Laquer thinner is great for cleaning up wiring harnesses though; takes off the old grease and dirt and makes the colored wires shine. I learned that from Classic Motorsports a few years back, and used it to great effect.
BTW, a PO used Maaco to paint the front of the car, and there's overspray/primer everywhere. Who did yours?
No idea what the name of the shop is. Jake was dealing with them.
Actually the thinner wasn't even strong enough, I needed something stronger. Maybe because the surface is grainy... But it was really hard to remove the overspray
I am enjoying your rebuild as I have some partial experience with 2 previous TR6s. Would it be possible to see the video where you dismantled the wood dash from the car?
Thx!
sureley you've found yourself another paint shop by now :D
Yeah, we did actually :)
Elin food for thought when you install the front cross member since you have the tools shave some of the metal off the front where the fan belt goes this way if necessary you can change the fan belt without having to take the cross member off because the belt can't pass through it .Not my idea saw it on another forum looks fine and works good
Hm... I actually have the cross member on already. I should have read your comment earlier. Thanks anyway.
Good job!
Thanks!
You finally found a product to remove overspray, “elbow grease.” How long would it have taken them to cover it with plastic.
I know right. They just needed to cover the grill opening....
Hi from England
Hi Mark! :)
How much are some of you paying to purchase the car, initially?
dont 4get the battery box 4 the gt6 lol
Yeah, I have it in mind, but it looks like it will be snowing again when I get back to te GT6
Ahhh first again
The first one gets the benefit of watching with no ads :)