Thank you very much Elin for this spendid set of timelapse videos that help me a lot entering into the core of the TR6 restoration subject ! Extremely well done !
Building one out for a customer, the original canister bracket has 2 bolt to mount it. One thats on the bottom of the bracket utilizes the same bolt that bolts down the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side and then the second one is straight above using the bolt that is also for the peice of medal that holds the radiator from going forward and backward connecting to the cross member that is between the fan and the engine. In super simple terms bolt the bracket to the side of the radiator using both the radiator bolts on the passenger side
Ack- I'm way behind in your videos! Coffee's on, watching you tinker :) That 'C' shaped hose from the ARV to the canister- I took my old hard one into NAPA autoparts, and they matched it up to some other application's hose- very close match. I still have the sticker on it, if anyone is interested. I also took the time to take apart my carbon canister and rebuild it using new charcoal- from a pet store. Fish tank filter material, same granules. I really didn't need to, as mine didn't smell like fuel. It was overkill...it wasn't saturated like some can get.
Hiya Elin, Please double check what I am going to say with an TR6 expert. The anti run-on valve is only supposed to work when you turn the motor off. It breaks the vacuum in the intake system to stop the engine from "dieseling". The fact that 12V is at pin #6 when the key is off (and 0V when the key is on) is correct. Yes, that wire is powered the whole time the engine is off so you don't want a short to happen. When you turn the engine off, the oil pressure switch momentarily grounds the NR wire thus activating the anti run-on solenoid which breaks the vacuum in the carbs stopping gas from flowing into the engine keeping the engine running even with no spark. It's not really needed anymore of course because you would have to have a very carboned up motor for dieseling to occur. Today's gasoline and oils don't leave the kinds of carbon buildup they did back when these cars were designed.
Elin, check the backside of your dash board for finish (varnish, lacquer, etc). If the surface is just raw wood, I would suggest you remove the board and apply 2-3 coats of exterior paint. With no finish on he backside, that board, even if it is veneered plywood, will warp and or crack. Unfortunately, not if, but when. I realize removing the dash is a great deal of work. However, this restoration is of such high quality it deserves the very best consideration. I hope this is a help and not a downer, Rollie
Elin, what did you do to make the intake manifold look so good? Would it be the same for my stock 69? I’m thinking a bead blast followed by some high temp paint would do the trick.
I don't remember it from that year. I was a kid but worked on those cars. It would have been much different from today. They did have safety kind of. Your mother needed to have two arms. One to steer and one to catch the child standing in the seat when hard braking. That was about it. Oh, and one beer holder.
In California 1975 and earlier don't have to conform to their insane smog rules. So i would remove that HP robbing, filth injector. I mean, who wants to rebreath their already breathed air.....
Well, it is not my car you know. It is meant to be sold eventually and I am trying to put it as close to original as possible. And to be honest I do not care much about HP. I enjoy cruising with these old ladies...
Yes, but I have this thing about smog pumps....I'm going thru a 1964 Spitfire, almost ready for paint. And someday I'd like to put in 150hp +/-. Spitfire lends itself to sporty improvements, all that room, that great bonnet, light weight. And I use your videos for info.
Thank you very much Elin for this spendid set of timelapse videos that help me a lot entering into the core of the TR6 restoration subject ! Extremely well done !
Thanks Pierre!
It is very nice to see this car grow and the assembly goes on! Excellent job Elin!
Thanks Eric
Building one out for a customer, the original canister bracket has 2 bolt to mount it. One thats on the bottom of the bracket utilizes the same bolt that bolts down the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side and then the second one is straight above using the bolt that is also for the peice of medal that holds the radiator from going forward and backward connecting to the cross member that is between the fan and the engine. In super simple terms bolt the bracket to the side of the radiator using both the radiator bolts on the passenger side
Ack- I'm way behind in your videos! Coffee's on, watching you tinker :) That 'C' shaped hose from the ARV to the canister- I took my old hard one into NAPA autoparts, and they matched it up to some other application's hose- very close match. I still have the sticker on it, if anyone is interested. I also took the time to take apart my carbon canister and rebuild it using new charcoal- from a pet store. Fish tank filter material, same granules. I really didn't need to, as mine didn't smell like fuel. It was overkill...it wasn't saturated like some can get.
Onward and upward! Thanks for the update, Elin!
Thanks Bruce!
This is really helpful. I have a 1971 Triump Vitesse.
Hiya Elin,
Please double check what I am going to say with an TR6 expert. The anti run-on valve is only supposed to work when you turn the motor off. It breaks the vacuum in the intake system to stop the engine from "dieseling". The fact that 12V is at pin #6 when the key is off (and 0V when the key is on) is correct. Yes, that wire is powered the whole time the engine is off so you don't want a short to happen. When you turn the engine off, the oil pressure switch momentarily grounds the NR wire thus activating the anti run-on solenoid which breaks the vacuum in the carbs stopping gas from flowing into the engine keeping the engine running even with no spark. It's not really needed anymore of course because you would have to have a very carboned up motor for dieseling to occur. Today's gasoline and oils don't leave the kinds of carbon buildup they did back when these cars were designed.
Hi John! Thanks for that. You might be right. I will have to look closer at how the valve operates and when it should be on! Thank you!
Elin, check the backside of your dash board for finish (varnish, lacquer, etc). If the surface is just raw wood, I would suggest you remove the board and apply 2-3 coats of exterior paint. With no finish on he backside, that board, even if it is veneered plywood, will warp and or crack. Unfortunately, not if, but when.
I realize removing the dash is a great deal of work. However, this restoration is of such high quality it deserves the very best consideration.
I hope this is a help and not a downer,
Rollie
Hi Rollie, thanks for the advice. I believe it was treated in some way. I am not sure what, but it wasn't raw wood.
Good job.
Elin, what did you do to make the intake manifold look so good? Would it be the same for my stock 69? I’m thinking a bead blast followed by some high temp paint would do the trick.
Great job..might have to get rich l like your cars 😃
1973 had emission control?
Yes, I think this is when they implemented it
I don't remember it from that year. I was a kid but worked on those cars. It would have been much different from today. They did have safety kind of. Your mother needed to have two arms. One to steer and one to catch the child standing in the seat when hard braking. That was about it. Oh, and one beer holder.
In California 1975 and earlier don't have to conform to their insane smog rules. So i would remove that HP robbing, filth injector. I mean, who wants to rebreath their already breathed air.....
Well, it is not my car you know. It is meant to be sold eventually and I am trying to put it as close to original as possible. And to be honest I do not care much about HP. I enjoy cruising with these old ladies...
Yes, but I have this thing about smog pumps....I'm going thru a 1964 Spitfire, almost ready for paint. And someday I'd like to put in 150hp +/-. Spitfire lends itself to sporty improvements, all that room, that great bonnet, light weight. And I use your videos for info.