When using, it's likely to have the foam rise beyond the desired limit. If you have to cut the foam, how do you reseal the surface to prevent it from absorbing water?
Hi Michael. Even if you have to shave off excess foam, this foam not absorb water. This foam creates a series of watertight bubbles throughout the entire batch of foam, cutting off a layer of foam will still leave behind a surface of watertight bubbles. If you would like to truly seal off the surface of your foam, we would recommend you use our #1041 Duratec® Gray Surfacing Primer.
Which combination or lbs rating would you suggest best to pour into a motorcycle seat mould? I'm making at home. Then cut out an outline for gel inserts....
Would you recommend using the 2lb or 6lb flotation foam for making small buoys in a torpedo shape? The core would have pvc and then a layered epoxy finish. Do you think the 2lb would be durable enough or to choose the 6lb?
Yes, it you were to pour too much in it could crack. We recommend pouring in small batches and letting it rise before pouring more. This way you're able to tell if more is needed.
+HarbingerZeroOne Good question. That will depend largely on the thickness of the foam used, as well as the velocity of the arrow and draw strength. It isn't really our intended use, so it's really hard to say if this would be an ideal product for what you have in mind. Here is the product data sheet for the foam, so you can look it over yourself. At the bottom, you can find the typical physical properties of the foam once it hardens. bit.ly/2026KLV
HarbingerZeroOne yep I didn't test this exact one but I used canned spray foam in an old shirt and an old water jug inside of that and milk jug filled with old Halloween zombie mask. might not last forever but it's my own custom Target I might try to post a picture later for my experiments something to consider would be to cut The Jug in half to let it dry and I made it to the head could detach so if I shot it up I could replace it my draw length is 30 with about 60 pounds and it stops most of my target arrows ( : the old shirt and jug I think definitely help but was having issues with it drying all way through being I put it inside of a jug side effect is I have some sticky arrows but just having a few drinks slinging arrows I really don't care ( :
HarbingerZeroOne IL try to put a shelf life on target after I shoot it a lot. but not much free time with kids n work. it might not be the longest lasting but it definitely is fun. my son liked watching me shoot zombie in eye and head popped off lol. I use weak link to connect head and body cause don't want arrow to hit something hard not to mention I like watching zombie head fly across lawn lol
I’m hoping to use this product to make a head mast float ( the teardrop shape float on top of a sailboat mast, used for buoyancy so the mast does not sink). I need 30 lbs of buoyancy. Can this foam be sculpted and sand to a smooth surface?
Hi Alex! This is Adam from Fibre Glast. Yes this product is perfect for that type of application. I can certainly be sculpted and sanded to a smooth surface. I have copied a link to that product page below. www.fibreglast.com/product/6Lb-Mix-and-Pour-Foam/Mix-and-Pour-Foam
Once it cures, is it possible to use screws to attach something to it? Specifically, if I pour this stuff under the floor of my fiberglass boat and let it cure, could I mount the captains chair and steering console to it?
Just thinking of the physical properties of the compression strength given to be 120 psi. Do you have any data as to the actual construction relevant strengths? What kind of load would this foam carry over in the center point of an area say 36 by 36 inches at what thickness without application of fiber glass and epoxy resins to the surface?
Good Morning. Unfortunately we do not have the data on hand to answer this exact questions. A load test of this nature would have to be performed to get accurate results.
A quick question before I forget it. Do you have any hints on how to ensure a good bond between steel and fibre glass/resin? The purpose being to form a less corrosion prone layer on a hull before painting it than regular marine primer would provide.
Bonding to metal can be difficult. Firstly your steel will need to be prepped and primed in order for resin to adhere. Our Duratec Grey Surfacing Primer or our ChromaGlast High Solids Primer Surfacer and Sealer may work for you. For the best results we recommend the use of vinyl ester or epoxy resin systems. If you choose to use our ChromaGlast High Solids Primer Surfacer and Sealer you will need to use an epoxy resin system as that primer is epoxy based.
I assume that is not requiring heat to cure above regular room temperatures unlike some polyurethane resins where the primer is initiated by application of heat?
You are mostly correct in that assumption. Our vinyl ester resin will not require heat nor will out System 2000 - 2020 epoxy resin. However our System 2000 Epoxy with either the 2060 or the 2120 hardeners will require additional heat to cure. If you are referring to just the primers that we have suggested neither of them will require additional heat to cure.
Very strange question, but could a liquid foam have tensile strength? Not specifically your foam, but is it plausible or chemically possible in any sense?
We list a tensile strength of 52psi for our 2# Mix and Pour Foam (part #24/25). That data is not available for our 6# foam. Is there a specific strength target you have for an application?
No, just been hypothesizing a chemistry experiment. I saw your video and I figured I should ask some people who know what they're doing about it! I've been trying to design a polyvinyl-alcohol or nano-cellulose based foam held together by it an outer skin. Ideally, this liquid plastic/foam cable would function like a super strong "silly string".
Hello. This foam can be reinforced when it is cured between two laminated carbon fiber sheets. But just adding raw carbon fiber strips to the mix & pour foam will not add any additional structural rigidity.
Thanks, I was hoping for some structurally strong so that it won't compress when submerged under water. Which version would recommend for underwater usage?
Can this fill up a hollow structure made of aluminum to be a structural core? How do I make sure there is no void and will the urethane foam adhere to the aluminum or should I apply adhesives on the aluminum before pouring please?
if I fill this is in a fiberglass boat stringer would this be strong enough
How hard is it to shape or sand?
Would you recommend using the 2lb or 6lb foam
When using, it's likely to have the foam rise beyond the desired limit. If you have to cut the foam, how do you reseal the surface to prevent it from absorbing water?
Hi Michael. Even if you have to shave off excess foam, this foam not absorb water. This foam creates a series of watertight bubbles throughout the entire batch of foam, cutting off a layer of foam will still leave behind a surface of watertight bubbles. If you would like to truly seal off the surface of your foam, we would recommend you use our #1041 Duratec® Gray Surfacing Primer.
can i get reduce its density by adding any additives or by any process during expansion??
Which combination or lbs rating would you suggest best to pour into a motorcycle seat mould? I'm making at home. Then cut out an outline for gel inserts....
Would you recommend using the 2lb or 6lb flotation foam for making small buoys in a torpedo shape? The core would have pvc and then a layered epoxy finish. Do you think the 2lb would be durable enough or to choose the 6lb?
Thank you for reaching out. The 6lb density foam is a better option for floatation buoys. The 2lb is more suitable for filling cavities.
I'd like to use something like this to fill my kayak. Would this crack a kayak if too much were put in? I'd prefer not to drill a ton of holes in it.
Yes, it you were to pour too much in it could crack. We recommend pouring in small batches and letting it rise before pouring more. This way you're able to tell if more is needed.
Could I pour this into uninsulated walls?
Can this absorb the impact of an arrow? I am looking to make a home made target for archery
+HarbingerZeroOne Good question. That will depend largely on the thickness of the foam used, as well as the velocity of the arrow and draw strength. It isn't really our intended use, so it's really hard to say if this would be an ideal product for what you have in mind.
Here is the product data sheet for the foam, so you can look it over yourself. At the bottom, you can find the typical physical properties of the foam once it hardens. bit.ly/2026KLV
HarbingerZeroOne
yep I didn't test this exact one but I used canned spray foam in an old shirt and an old water jug inside of that and milk jug filled with old Halloween zombie mask. might not last forever but it's my own custom Target I might try to post a picture later for my experiments something to consider would be to cut The Jug in half to let it dry and I made it to the head could detach so if I shot it up I could replace it my draw length is 30 with about 60 pounds and it stops most of my target arrows ( : the old shirt and jug I think definitely help but was having issues with it drying all way through being I put it inside of a jug side effect is I have some sticky arrows but just having a few drinks slinging arrows I really don't care ( :
HarbingerZeroOne
IL try to put a shelf life on target after I shoot it a lot. but not much free time with kids n work. it might not be the longest lasting but it definitely is fun. my son liked watching me shoot zombie in eye and head popped off lol. I use weak link to connect head and body cause don't want arrow to hit something hard not to mention I like watching zombie head fly across lawn lol
I’m hoping to use this product to make a head mast float ( the teardrop shape float on top of a sailboat mast, used for buoyancy so the mast does not sink). I need 30 lbs of buoyancy. Can this foam be sculpted and sand to a smooth surface?
Hi Alex! This is Adam from Fibre Glast. Yes this product is perfect for that type of application. I can certainly be sculpted and sanded to a smooth surface. I have copied a link to that product page below.
www.fibreglast.com/product/6Lb-Mix-and-Pour-Foam/Mix-and-Pour-Foam
Is there a fire rating for this 6# foam?
What would be density of foam after expansion? is it same?
can i make strong corbels with this 6lb?
Once it cures, is it possible to use screws to attach something to it? Specifically, if I pour this stuff under the floor of my fiberglass boat and let it cure, could I mount the captains chair and steering console to it?
Hello, unfortunately this product is not dense enough to secure attachments to it.
@@fibreglast could you put some kind of anchoring material in the foam on the bottom board such as plastic or wood to screw the seats to?
Just thinking of the physical properties of the compression strength given to be 120 psi.
Do you have any data as to the actual construction relevant strengths?
What kind of load would this foam carry over in the center point of an area say 36 by 36 inches at what thickness without application of fiber glass and epoxy resins to the surface?
Good Morning. Unfortunately we do not have the data on hand to answer this exact questions. A load test of this nature would have to be performed to get accurate results.
A quick question before I forget it. Do you have any hints on how to ensure a good bond between steel and fibre glass/resin?
The purpose being to form a less corrosion prone layer on a hull before painting it than regular marine primer would provide.
Bonding to metal can be difficult. Firstly your steel will need to be prepped and primed in order for resin to adhere. Our Duratec Grey Surfacing Primer or our ChromaGlast High Solids Primer Surfacer and Sealer may work for you. For the best results we recommend the use of vinyl ester or epoxy resin systems. If you choose to use our ChromaGlast High Solids Primer Surfacer and Sealer you will need to use an epoxy resin system as that primer is epoxy based.
I assume that is not requiring heat to cure above regular room temperatures unlike some polyurethane resins where the primer is initiated by application of heat?
You are mostly correct in that assumption. Our vinyl ester resin will not require heat nor will out System 2000 - 2020 epoxy resin. However our System 2000 Epoxy with either the 2060 or the 2120 hardeners will require additional heat to cure.
If you are referring to just the primers that we have suggested neither of them will require additional heat to cure.
Thanks Daniel.
Very strange question, but could a liquid foam have tensile strength? Not specifically your foam, but is it plausible or chemically possible in any sense?
We list a tensile strength of 52psi for our 2# Mix and Pour Foam (part #24/25). That data is not available for our 6# foam. Is there a specific strength target you have for an application?
No, just been hypothesizing a chemistry experiment. I saw your video and I figured I should ask some people who know what they're doing about it!
I've been trying to design a polyvinyl-alcohol or nano-cellulose based foam held together by it an outer skin. Ideally, this liquid plastic/foam cable would function like a super strong "silly string".
Can you reinforce this foam by adding carbon fiber pre cut strips?
Hello. This foam can be reinforced when it is cured between two laminated carbon fiber sheets. But just adding raw carbon fiber strips to the mix & pour foam will not add any additional structural rigidity.
Thanks, I was hoping for some structurally strong so that it won't compress when submerged under water. Which version would recommend for underwater usage?
I would recommend the 6 lb over the 2 lb. It will stand up the best to compression.
Do y’all sell this in 5 gal kits
Yes sir we do! I have copied a link to that product page below.
www.fibreglast.com/product/6lb_Mix_And_Pour_Foam/Foam
Can you fiber glass 6 lb foam?
Absolutely. This foam can be used as a sandwich core material and as a plug.
Can this fill up a hollow structure made of aluminum to be a structural core? How do I make sure there is no void and will the urethane foam adhere to the aluminum or should I apply adhesives on the aluminum before pouring please?
Interesting and informative, as always