You got a good video here young man, lots of useful info and suggestions, keep um coming. Just a couple comments : For anyone getting one of these machines, when you assemble it, grease every pin before you install, then replace the oem zerk fittings with high-quality M6 steel fittings, you get more threads engaged and a lot less breakage. Replace those cheap oem angled hitch pins with good D-handle pins (about $3.50 each), keeps the holes from being enlarged. And double the usefulness of the machine by adding a thumb, either weld-on or bolt-on (about $150.00 - $200.00). Engine break-in is VERY IMPORTANT !!! If you follow the break-in for the engine (1/2 throttle or less for the first 20 hours of engine use), it can last 400-600 hours with good maintenance. If you jump-in and run full throttle from day 1, you'll be lucky to get 150-250 hours of engine life.
It helps to take the pressure off the cylinders. A couple of the joints didn't want to take grease on mine. I adjusted the pressure on the dipper and tried again. It only took a couple tries to get the pressure off the joint I was having trouble with, then the grease went right in. Good luck all, and happy diggins.
a chainsaw bar tip greaser workes extremely well ... they make refillable ones and disposable ones .... i strongly suggest the refillable ones as you will need to grease your trencher every time you use it
You know you can adjust the size your grease gun fitting end that goes over the grease fitting ball - just turn it you can loosen it put it on the grease fittings the turn it to tighten it - just reverse to take it off - lot of people are breaking there grease fittings off when they remove the grease gun - when all the had to do was loosen the part they push on the grease fitting.
Just bought the same unit but from Princess Auto in Canada. the staff were great. but the one that looks like a turkey baster is for another application.
Thanks for the vid. I've greased my trencher twice and I'm down...two broken fittings and one broken grease gun end. Wish I had just replaced all the zerk fittings before greasing! Looking carefully at the original fittings, compared to the new replacements, they seem to have a different shape. Not sure this is what causes the stuck-on grease gun or not.
Greasing this thing is a little bit of a challenge . I broke the fitting at the main boom . replaced with harbor freight fittings , i think i have a video on that as well if you want to check that out , also once it starts to run dry you can hear this thing squeaking . if you don't grease after that your on borrowed time .
Oh hell yeah... You rule dude! I'm getting one of these delivered next week and want to hit the ground running with it. Gotta order one of these needle fittings. Also how is that walmart fluid holding up? Wondering if I should get that, or use a 5 gallon tub I have for an old ford tractor. I've been making offgrid homestead videos for a few months now. I hope they're even 1/10th as helpful as this was for me. Thanks.
Oh. Just saw on another video. That one that's at the bottom of the boom you asked about why it doesn't have a hole to grease... It's a fitting underneath like the 2 that are in the holes you used the hammers claw to remove. Hope that helps.
Been running mine a few hours since getting it. Notice it's making creaking noises already. Thought they would come greased. Seems like there was no grease in them. Fighting to remove grease fittings from the existing zerk fittings. What a pain. Still need to go find the adaptor for the flush mount fittings. Didn't try the hammer to remove them from those two holes, but was afraid it would break. I tried pliers and two screwdrivers to pry it off. Finally got them off and not sure why.
I drill out the flush mount fittings and install the ball type... the little bit of anti-break-off protection you get with the flush fittings wasn't worth it to me when everything else I own uses the ball type fittings I just drilled them out and used screw in type ball fittings (if I ever damage one it's just a few seconds to unscrew it and replace with a new one) the biggest headache on these machines is the main boom swing pin as the design just doesn't grease for crap nor hold it's grease resulting in premature wear failure I replaced it twice on mine within the first 400 hrs. then decided to make my own replacement pin to tighter tolerances instead of a bolt with washer from each end to retain the pin I made mine with a flange on the top end this pin was then through bored with a 1/16 inch drill bit with 2 bushing greasing through holes at 90 degrees from each other, and a tight fitting center spool bushing retained by a tight fitting pin end bushing welded to the end just like the harbor freight pins and then the pin was capped and secured on the bottom end with the same bolt and washer as the original, this new pin design completely eliminated the need for the hard to grease rear grease fittings on the boom swing point.
@@dodgeme1986truck I hear what you are saying, and your explanation is good. The trouble is the length of it, and number of items/parts/mods mentioned; just a tad overwhelming. Any chance you could throw up a video of the thing, to go along with the explanation
@@jafquist27 unfortunately I didn't record the boom pin redesign and since mine has held up so well and has stayed tight I won't be making a replacement for it anytime soon...
I have had mine for three and a half years and am a firm believer in grease. Great video and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching please like and subscribe
Will do. Keep us posted.
There is fitting at the top were the 2 hydraulic hose go in at knuckle. And one at the bottom of arm under black boom were it swings
You got a good video here young man, lots of useful info and suggestions, keep um coming. Just a couple comments : For anyone getting one of these machines, when you assemble it, grease every pin before you install, then replace the oem zerk fittings with high-quality M6 steel fittings, you get more threads engaged and a lot less breakage. Replace those cheap oem angled hitch pins with good D-handle pins (about $3.50 each), keeps the holes from being enlarged. And double the usefulness of the machine by adding a thumb, either weld-on or bolt-on (about $150.00 - $200.00). Engine break-in is VERY IMPORTANT !!! If you follow the break-in for the engine (1/2 throttle or less for the first 20 hours of engine use), it can last 400-600 hours with good maintenance. If you jump-in and run full throttle from day 1, you'll be lucky to get 150-250 hours of engine life.
Very good advice. Please leave a link to fittings and like and subscribe thanks.
It helps to take the pressure off the cylinders. A couple of the joints didn't want to take grease on mine. I adjusted the pressure on the dipper and tried again. It only took a couple tries to get the pressure off the joint I was having trouble with, then the grease went right in. Good luck all, and happy diggins.
That is true, there has to be a little room or less friction to add grease
a chainsaw bar tip greaser workes extremely well ... they make refillable ones and disposable ones .... i strongly suggest the refillable ones as you will need to grease your trencher every time you use it
send a link i will take a look at it thanks
Good stuff, this and goneredonecar video helped me out.
Thanks I'm glad you enjoyed it . Please like and subscribe
The middle grease fitting of backhoe. Is in the middle. I raise boom up and extend out so i can grease that big middle pin.
It is a regular grease fitting.
Thanks . I will look for it before I use it next time , APPRECIATE THE TIP !
We appreciate the info, this is a big purchase for us on a little farm. We can use all the info we can get. Joined your F/B page as well..
Thanks I really appreciate that welcome to the family
Thanks I really appreciate that welcome to the family
You know you can adjust the size your grease gun fitting end that goes over the grease fitting ball - just turn it you can loosen it put it on the grease fittings the turn it to tighten it - just reverse to take it off - lot of people are breaking there grease fittings off when they remove the grease gun - when all the had to do was loosen the part they push on the grease fitting.
Thanks .My grease gun was so cheap it didn't have that option . Once you turn it it just turns unto infinity
I think I will try to put normal zerk fittings on mine.
Sure either one will work. Thanks for commenting. Please like and subscribe
Just bought the same unit but from Princess Auto in Canada. the staff were great.
but the one that looks like a turkey baster is for another application.
Right. I tried just about everything . Like and subscribe let me know how you like your machine
Did you get the one at the bottom of the boom.
You have to raise up and lay down on ground to get to.
yes thanks
Thanks for the vid. I've greased my trencher twice and I'm down...two broken fittings and one broken grease gun end. Wish I had just replaced all the zerk fittings before greasing! Looking carefully at the original fittings, compared to the new replacements, they seem to have a different shape. Not sure this is what causes the stuck-on grease gun or not.
Greasing this thing is a little bit of a challenge . I broke the fitting at the main boom . replaced with harbor freight fittings , i think i have a video on that as well if you want to check that out , also once it starts to run dry you can hear this thing squeaking . if you don't grease after that your on borrowed time .
Oh hell yeah... You rule dude! I'm getting one of these delivered next week and want to hit the ground running with it.
Gotta order one of these needle fittings.
Also how is that walmart fluid holding up? Wondering if I should get that, or use a 5 gallon tub I have for an old ford tractor.
I've been making offgrid homestead videos for a few months now. I hope they're even 1/10th as helpful as this was for me. Thanks.
Oh. Just saw on another video. That one that's at the bottom of the boom you asked about why it doesn't have a hole to grease...
It's a fitting underneath like the 2 that are in the holes you used the hammers claw to remove. Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching appreciate the kind words. Walmart fluid is fine. Do me a favor. Please like and subscribe.
@@HoodHandyman already did! Check me out too if you're bored some day.
@@WatchMeBuild on my way
@@WatchMeBuild I subscribed brother looks like you been buy as well . Anyone who reads this subscribe to my channel and Watch me builds . Thank you
Been running mine a few hours since getting it. Notice it's making creaking noises already. Thought they would come greased. Seems like there was no grease in them. Fighting to remove grease fittings from the existing zerk fittings. What a pain. Still need to go find the adaptor for the flush mount fittings. Didn't try the hammer to remove them from those two holes, but was afraid it would break. I tried pliers and two screwdrivers to pry it off. Finally got them off and not sure why.
I drill out the flush mount fittings and install the ball type... the little bit of anti-break-off protection you get with the flush fittings wasn't worth it to me when everything else I own uses the ball type fittings I just drilled them out and used screw in type ball fittings (if I ever damage one it's just a few seconds to unscrew it and replace with a new one) the biggest headache on these machines is the main boom swing pin as the design just doesn't grease for crap nor hold it's grease resulting in premature wear failure I replaced it twice on mine within the first 400 hrs. then decided to make my own replacement pin to tighter tolerances instead of a bolt with washer from each end to retain the pin I made mine with a flange on the top end this pin was then through bored with a 1/16 inch drill bit with 2 bushing greasing through holes at 90 degrees from each other, and a tight fitting center spool bushing retained by a tight fitting pin end bushing welded to the end just like the harbor freight pins and then the pin was capped and secured on the bottom end with the same bolt and washer as the original, this new pin design completely eliminated the need for the hard to grease rear grease fittings on the boom swing point.
@@dodgeme1986truck I hear what you are saying, and your explanation is good. The trouble is the length of it, and number of items/parts/mods mentioned; just a tad overwhelming. Any chance you could throw up a video of the thing, to go along with the explanation
@@jafquist27 unfortunately I didn't record the boom pin redesign and since mine has held up so well and has stayed tight I won't be making a replacement for it anytime soon...
@@dodgeme1986truck Well, thank you for replying, nonetheless.
You need the cone needle not the hyperdermic type needle
Worked fine for all intent and purposes but thanks for commenting please like and subscribe
Good video though- thanks