Petzl Coeur Pulse Tested - $70 Bolts!?!?!
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- We were able to break $70 bolts because of Jake Torren and Thomas Hollinghurst were so generous. The Petzl Coeur Pulse is a removable bolt that does not require any tools... after a perfect 12mm hole is drilled and cleaned. Thank you Bobby Hutton and Mike Rogers (@wolf_in_the_weeds) for destroying things for science with me.
MBS is 25kn in shear and 20kn in tension.
We got 47kn in shear and it pulled out at 17kn in tension.
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Intro
00:21 About the bolt
05:16 Stuck Open?
06:28 Alternatives
08:21 Drill Bits
10:36 Installing
11:44 1st Test
12:45 Comparing holes
14:05 2nd Test
16:13 3rd Test
17:37 Conclusion
18:30 Ending
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We use them for industrial rope access. They come in really handy in situations where we're working on buildings that aren't finished yet and don't have their abseil system in place yet. Also great for jobs where we need additional anchors but the client doesn't want the ongoing cost of recertifying a permanent anchor every year. Also great when replacing glass panels where we need anchorage in the room. Lift up the carpet or remove a ceiling panel, find some concrete you can set-up in shear and off you go. The short bolt length is really handy as you're less likely to hit rebar when installing them. Neat fact, under IRATA 6kn (roughly a factor one fall) is the highest potential impact force a technician should be allowed expose themselves to, which might explain the rating. As for having to use a four blade drill bit. I'd say that should be the standard for any friction anchor. Don't be a cheapskate, buy proper drill bits!
Also great for jobs where we need additional anchors but the client doesn't want the ongoing cost of recertifying a permanent anchor every year.
And how about the holes for them? Don't they erose by Ice and so on after few years? Or you do new hole to skycraper every year?
Where do you get the 12mm bits?
@@lewisrichards6572 Pretty much any decent hardware store should carry a four bladed SDS masonry bit. Or if you want to spend some $ Hilti. Two bladed ones just don't produce a round enough hole
I could only find bits in inches at local hardware stores.
@@lewisrichards6572 Ah, I always forget that you guys over in the States are still working with the archaic measurements. I guess Amazon or eBay or something would be your go to
From a machinist standpoint. A two flute drill bit will actually drill a triangular shaped hole. The four flute drill bit will drill a more round hole. When using dial or digital calipers to measure, you apply light pressure.
Great tests though. I enjoyed your video and watched a few more despite having no interest in climbing.
Do you know why a two flute bit drills a triangular hole? (Just interested and can't figure out why the heck that would happen)
@@thth1451 imagine one corner of the chisel sticking. The other corner will will sweep out an arc until it sticks, and the first corner sweeps out another arc. This pattern will continue, with the sticking points forming three lobes. The diameter of pin that will fit will be different than expected (smaller?) and the bearing surface will be smaller.
With four corners, I imagine you'd get a somewhat pentagonal, but overall more round, hole.
@@jimstanley_49 look up how to drill a square hole. It's done with a jig and a 3 flute bit. Jim's response is spot on.
Way back me and my dad Rowland Edwards invented the extractable bolt idea for climbing... It was called the E-fix, later to evolve into the ENP. The major problem with removable bolts that are repeatedly used within the same hole is "waxing", a layer of metal is deposited inside the walls of the hole, so much so we found we could literally pull the bolts out by hand! Anyways, removable bolts should be a one use only in them holes. Great videos, great channel. Get well soonest Bobby. Saludos from Spain. M
I work at a rock climbing centre in the UK. We are the only place in the country to have ENPs indoors!
Mighty awesome what your father and you invented.
Please make a video to test the Czech sand trad gear🙏🙏🙏🙏
It'd be super cheap and fun to watch!!
Are you talking about those knot nuts ? if so i ++ would be super interesting
And what about Walter Bonatti's oak wedges ?
Knot nuts is German sandstone gear. But It would be very interesting to see those. And UFO's as well. (Cams made from Fabric and climbing sole)
petzl instructions always have the best graphics!
Bobby's hair is back! Just kidding, hope the recovery is going well! Great videos all around!!
hahaha
and his hand healed really quickly!
I have waited so long for this video.
We use the Cœur Pulse in situations where we cant set permanent anchors.
Greetings from Switzerland, 🇨🇭✌️
Used in rope access on building sides and roofs for re belays, deviations. Great for near the ocean city jobs as can be removed to protect from corrosion . A lot less obtrusive than fixed hangers.
I use them to hang hammocks when I´m visiting a friends house
in rocks? seems like it would be a lot of work for a hammock
I about spit my coffee out laughing. Thank you.
@@kierkegaard907 always glad to ruin someone’s carpet!
A mate of mine who I worked for in rope access told me they only use them in special high strength concrete. I never used them personally, only the big Petzl glue in ring anchors and they were also in concrete. Super Great video as always!
Nice to see people taking all needed time to explore and explain their using of equipement. 20' and nohting is lost. Thank you.
Thanks for the great video! I’ve heard of these being used wonderfully in caving, and that’s how I plan to use them. Very useful in situations where you have no good natural anchor, or need something like a rebelay. Passing rope protectors can be a hassle and risk moving, being dropped, etc which then can expose the rope to sharp rock which is super dangerous in caving. Normally I prefer natural anchors and a rope protector, but sometimes it’s way too tedious having several rope protectors and it’s not ideal. What I like about these is that I can, if needed, drill in a spot for a rebelay or anchor, enter quickly, and leave while keeping the bolts with me and leaving nothing but a bit of dust and the hole. If we want to return frequently or make the cave accessible to future adventurers we can ideally use the same hole as a glue in bolt so then future cavers can enter and enjoy with minimal gear- just carabiners and rope. These are great though because if the cave doesn’t continue, ie it’s just a random drop to nothing, then we don’t leave anything behind but a little hole. Again, I almost always would prefer natural anchors with rope protectors like Petzl Protec, but this is in my mind now for situations where we really don’t have good or safe natural anchors and I expect it to continue so the temporary Petzl pulse is a great thing to use until one day someone decides to glue it. Thanks again!
For anyone looking for the titan bolts they use in other videos, they are are also sold under the brand name Simpson strong tie
Great video! Thanks for breaking my bolts, :).
oh its you
Terrible isn't it, you can't trust them to look after anything!
We eventually get to stuff :). You sent those back in October!
@@HowNOT2 Will have to move on to make 3 Petzl BAT'inox to fight against 3 Petzl COL'inox (after BAT'inox pull out rating demoted from 50kN to 15kN) but how is your testing schedule now that Bobby got injured. Get well soon Bobby
I don’t even highline, slack line, or climb, but your videos are cool man. You never know when the info will come in handy. You gained a new subscriber
The next step wouod be the 22kn climbtech removal cam for 1/2" holes.
I was climbing at Lion's Head Ontario Canada and it's a sea cliff with a top-down approach. My friend had the Petzl Attache and was loaded when she screwed the safety close. Had to run back to the car and get a pair of plyers. Now I always close the gate unloaded. Still love the Attache, it's one of the best all around lockers I've ever used.
Great to see these tested!
I use them a lot for birds of prey research to access nests etc., where one would not want to leave anchors (for obvious reasons) once done with the work. The study areas are often in National Parks where permission for bolting may be time consuming, and this apparently doesn’t count.
I printed rock coloured rubber stoppers to plug the holes, which, allows me to use the same holes over multiple seasons (If I can find them again ;).
Super interesting! Thanks for sharing.
That would be super interesting content to film if you are willing to bring us along.
@@HowNOT2 I’ll email you 👍🏻
Put a strong uv ink on the stoppers, might make them easier to fine with a uv flashlight
Used them in industrial rope access to access cliff edges for scaling rockfall mitigation. Had no issues. I do wish there was a semi- permanent sleeve- type device for repeated use. Found a bit from hilti that worked perfectly, pricey tho.
Never even knew there was such a product or even temp bolts that were super good enough haha thanks for the video!
We use them in civil protection rope access, i guess with the goal to quickly enter locations to save people, leave and go next with less material to carry, and when training so we can quickly remove bolts and seal holes without having to restock bolts regularily.
Nice testing guys. Thanks for the video. I can see why they don't want you to lead over those. If the carabineer flips over the top as you climb past it and take a fall.. You can break that quick release.
Looks to me like the machining marks in the hanger are due to the matching anti-rotation feature on the bolt.
Love the free sub btw, been rocking it for a while now.
These guys remind me of waking up to pancakes and fish 🎳 on weekend mornings when I was 6 to watch cartoons then mr. wizard. Learning safety and passing info is vital ! I just think these guys nail it and make it fun to watch,an honesty I can’t afford half the gear they use I just love to hike&climb. The info and demos they pass along are helpful for most!
Haven’t used these, thinking about picking some up. We use the climbtech removable bolt system, they were some of the first. In their testing they claim the substrate will break before the bolt.. might be worth a try..--------
Our use case: redirecting in industrial setting, placing anchors for temperorary operations.. only for static loads, only for double rope system.
Making a “collar” slow drilling at first is key, going straight in, and blowing out the hole are key. Dust “lubricates” the hole and must be cleared out. Great vid! Keep it up!
ua-cam.com/video/vuBdYXK44oY/v-deo.html and you can whip on them
Used them once while retro bolting. My partner had a few. Worked well. However, and considering my limited use and this video (thank you), price seems to be the only reason why I wouldn't use them again. Dollar Titens for the win.
We use them in the oil and gas industry Survey . Hell Portable. Safety climbing !Leave no trace!
Its gratifying to see people that put their lives on "the line" when they play on what they test.
the Ultimate Street Cred.
👏👏👏😎🇺🇸☯️♾️
Pretty impressive strength.
Great video! Just a friendly heads up, (and UA-cam community, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong), but calipers shouldn't be squeezed hard, you end up getting a smaller reading based on the mechanical flex/"slop" in the calipers, and your dimensions are artificially reduced. Instead, your calipers should be snug, firm but gentle. Does this matter for most cases? Maybe not, but when we're talking about a tenth of a mm, every little bit matters.
I used the 8mm ones to bolt a few routes, I found them super convenient to set up a fix lines to clean up and search for lines.
Have you tried the 7.5mm Raumer Multi-Monts screws? Very similar concept in terms of easy placement (no need for impact driver) and removable. Much cheaper!
@@rachelhasbruisesthis is a very good tip - thanks
Per Andy K, these things are dead useful on alpine big walls where you’re not trying to hike or ski in 40 bolts for all your anchors. Great test guys!
I can imagine it's not very nice for perople repeating such a route when they arrive at the anchor and there is nothing but two holes ;)
I'd imaging that drilling precision holes by hand is unpleasant at best.
My father used to design stainless equipment for industrial food processing and he explained that 316 has better crack resistance than 304.
Fyi the atache barrel can be loosened with an 8mm camp quicklink. As you unscrew the link, Place the atache barrel so that the link barrel unscrews into / hits the atache barrel. Then use the link as a wrench
Or just quit buying MacPretzl junk. Their gear gets worse each and every year. Plenty of great gear out there.
UA-cam brought me to your channel yesterday and today I got to watch a brand new video! That’s because I subscribed with notifications turned on!
What a beautiful piece of engineering! These bolts are incredibly strong and they are beautiful to look at. I would love to have them as part of my collection. Thank you so much for this amazing channel. Yesterday, I watched you on Lost Arrow and I was incredibly impressed! I’m trying to keep myself from binge watching all of your incredible videos!
Awesome! We have lots of good content scheduled for the next several months.
@@HowNOT2 I am really glad to hear that! You're an awesome dude!
@@HowNOT2 I had to fix my typos. Thank you for Highlighting my comment!
These bolts can turnout pretty handy for drilling routes up the wall. in very negative angles they are lifesavers, at least we've been using them with this purpose on our very solid sandstone, and it has been pretty satisfying. Don't about disclaimers for that type of use, but I guess there is a point when it's all about mitigating risk, not eliminating it. So, in that case, it's a very helpful piece of tool to have in-hand.
thank you for your service
Holy shit, those are strong AF
Love this! I use these in a few canyons in Ouray. We use them mostly for handline anchors and redirects as most of our redirects are only needed during high water.
The 4 blade masonry bits are easy to source in us, typically they're considered "rebar cutters"
12mm though?
Yep, I found em on the lowes (central US hardware store) website in like 5 seconds typing in "12mm rebar cutting masonry bit"
you have the most intelligent way of asking for a sub. the first time I heard you say it I clicked the sub button because you earned it with that haha
Seems useful if you needed to develop a sport climbing route on lead, but wanted to equip it with glue in bolts (cause sandstone).
You could lead up with these and then replace them with glue-ins on the way down.
The only time I’ve seen these used was when josh and Charlotte (cold house media) were bolting a mega prow in Peru. They used it to set the rappel line to begin the top down bolting
Test the two fluke vs four fluke drilled holes with your standard selection of bolts for bolt busters!
You guys should get the slow mo guys for some silly high fraim slow mo
Yeah we know you're gonna go whip on it Ryan, you can't fool us. Definitely seems like it could be used in aid climbing in some way, might be cleaner just to have the holes with no hardware, or to replace a gear anchor location.
Thanks guys, I've used these for years for not just rap anchors. at first I was like ugh why do you guys keep breaking these things brand new? there's little point in that as they're rated so they'll be fine if installed properly.
But the second test is something I've had happen and it's great to see the results.
They're expensive but the main advantage is ease of installation.
-They mean you don't need to carry as much gear with you if doing recon, eg a temp anchor where otherwise you might need to bring an impact driver to put in concrete screws
-for things you might to back to periodically, no need to use stainless anchors for temporary points, just plug these in and go
-you can do guerrilla sport sends (though not recommended by petzl, obvs) of a project without putting in the bolts
-they make aiding and access with bolt lines a breeze as you don't need to hammer and tighten with different tools
plus if you hunt around for a good deal you can get them for like AU$50
Love how he flips the bolt at the end!
In Germany, these are available for 40€ straight (taxes included) = 43$.
Before covid, these bolts were around 50$...with the explosion in outdoor gear they must have gone up...I definitley can see a value in these bolts where you are worried about thieves, don't wanna leave responsibility for someone's else's climbing failure, or leave no trace for multiple reasons legal or illegal lol...Toolless feature is what makes it great though. I agree with Bobby though if you are able to have a bunch of gear with you
Amazing! Great video
I used them once for a highline show between two buildings, 3 or 4 of them on each side in concrete I think. They were all pulling on the side and it was bomber 10/10 would whip.
Nice!
French highliners also used them to rig in touristic caves.
Test the temporary screw in bolts you guys use???
We have. Check out the bolt buster chart at Slackline.com. They are our standard for testing hangers. So far we haven't found a hanger currently in production that is stronger than a 3/8" by 4" plated steel Titen HD in cincrete or harder medium. They achieve lower values in soft sandstone.
47kn! Not bad for a removable bolt... Wow
Start using them for Canyoning Guiding; perfect for setting up temporary anchors for guided rappels and handlines,etc. The x bits are expensive, and the bolt could be hard to retrieve when in wet situation.
When they get stuck in limestone you can just sell your home to replace them.
at 4:30 you said something "opposite". IF you see the little GAP you survive. You die if you DON'T see it. nonetheless, I'm a huge fan of you work. I've learned so much thanks to your videos. keep it up. Cheers from Italy
Hi Guys! are you going to do an update test? The new Coeur Pulse 2023 model has a spinning hanger and a tightening knob that is supposed to not get stuck.
Keep the tech talk, dont change anything!
Great video, so happy to get to see these breaks. Stronger than I expected. I currently use climb tech Removable Bolts, always been curious about these. Have you used the climb tech ones?
Использовал на монолитном здании,фото к сожалению нет,
Анкер Petzl отработал на 5 баллов 👍
Буду заказывать ещё!
В горы не хожу- только промышленный альпинизм!
Всем добра!!!
Free subscription!!!! Woooo!
We use them a lot buds
Insane content mate!
it's holding..IT'S HOLDING..oh,it's gonna blow.
Not sure if someone said this already, but I bet they say not to lead climb with them because of the head snapping off when loaded. A draw could flip right over and get stuck but not with a static load in the hanger... maybe a water bottle?
To my knowledge Pulse are used by cavers for aid climbing. Driling holes as they go up but not leaving any gear behind.
Just got out of a cave last night, we used cheap 5/16th galvanized bolts and remove hangers and smash the stud in. Seems expensive.
@@HowNOT2 I used it in caves for every other hole
We tend to use concrete screws alot in aid climbing in caves. But then you also have to carry a driver which is just one more thing hanging off you. We keep discussing these but have never used them in my group, its great to see a test!
Used for installing split ac units in a high rise apartment on Reddit.
I have two screw lock petzl ok caribiners and they will lock shut easy with just fingers and I have to use pliers to open back up
12/10 WOULD WHIP!
I believe the 4 bladed bit is called a cruciform bit
You get a better measurment with calipers if you hold them normal to whatever you are measuring instead of parallel.
The Titens (I too use the 1/4" PS ones for temp anchors) are super cheap HOWEVER they require you to haul along an impact wrench, socket etc. Not exactly light. I could see using these for areas where saving weight is helpful. The other area would be positioning bolts on route. Setting a Titen on steep terrain with an impact wrench isn't exactly easy...
Great points.
You should try Raumer Multi-Monts screws (7.5mm). They are set by hand easily with a ratchet.
If you're bolting aboveground, you could use the SDS+ Impact adapter onto your roto-hammer.
Cave Exploration Society sells them and Ryan has an affiliate link here: www.slackline.com/shop
:)
Would you please test them on an equalise anchor
Non climber here. Don't know jack, just enjoy watching it. So, just watched the first pull. That carabiner is nuts. I'd think it would break or at least bend with that much force, especially concentrated all on one point. What's the force they can withstand?
Shoot, I was hoping you would test the 8mm version
Whouou Free subscription !
"You win a free sub" - meanwhile I've been a sub for a year. Awesome content as usual.
Easiest way to undo a stuck carabiner is to weight it again and loosen whilst weighted. Pliers not necessary.
Or buy quality carabiners, ha.
I wonder if it’s for high angle rescue? Might be useful for the tripods or additional anchors. I’ve seen double rope for rescue. But that was 5 yrs ago when I took rescue tech.
I use the 8mm versions to free climb (don't tell Petzl)
Hi Ryan, we were thinking of getting 6 of them as we get a discount at a local store. The idea was to use them to rig highlines in protected areas. Are they ok to use for highlining as I just heard you say they are advertised only for rappeling?
Sauce on 1$ bolts? Just looking for a general idea of that type of thing.
The diameter of a drill does not, typically, equal the diameter of the hole produced.
4.8 metric tons, damn.
Mr. Hutton describes his current system (one-dollar bolts) for temporary/removable bolts. Having done the testing of the Coeur Pulse, I wonder if he had any reaction/thoughts on situations where he'd consider it a worthwhile alternative?
I would use them in a situation where someone else was buying the bolts.
-Bobby
hey ! do you think you can test the Petzl Pulse 8mm ?
I use them for caving
Yeah? That's super interesting-- how are they working for you? I've never seen anyone use them underground but we've given them some consideration. My project partners and I decided they had no advantage versus concrete screws. 🤔 I'd be interested to hear how you're using them and in what conditions. 😁
@@rachelhasbruises not alot of people in my area like doing what I do so I leave no trace..just because it would be a waste to leave anything there no one would use it
these look cool. pretty prizey, but if you want what they do, they seem to be really good at it
Like this Channel.... just wish I could afford the ropes and things.
Used for rescue tasks
I am curious if you tapped the rock with a hammer, before placing them? Granite is not supposed to fail like that, if you hear the “ping” sound from the rock when you hit it with a hammer. I was part of the 2.9km project in Senia (Norway), where they worked like a charm! In the high wind the line was exposed to 22kn equalized between 3 of them 💪 they are still being used I think. Cool video thank you!
Yeah we got a nice solid sound. It drilled like hard granite too. Other bolts that we tested right there failed well above MBS.
@@bobbyhutton1989 16:33 it looks a bit flakey to me, but hey- I haven’t done 1000 breaktest
Good video
You should break test the dmm xsre
Why can you only use it for repelling? Is Petzl worried about getting sued?
It's not designed for dynamic loads, i.e, "don't fall on it." Hanging from it is fine.
Hey there! Has anybody tested those in wood? I know they're not made for this, but I was wondering if that would hold up supergoodenough or if I'd die hanging myself off those felling trees or climbing along wooden roof beams...
Could they possibly be useful in some rescue scenarios ?
concrete screws would work just as good probably
@@HowNOT2 sure but that's also the case for any other application. I think the all in one piece factor does improve, even if only slightly, the speed at which one can install these
Another possible advantage of this not tool method is the safety it provides when working above people/traffic when you can't set up an exclusion zone at the bottom, the less actions and pieces you have to assemble the anchor the safest
This same idea is spreading in the entertainment rigging, steel baskets are more and more made of a rigging ring at one end of the steel cable and a hook at the other end, in replacement to shackles that you have to unscrew while there are other stagehands working beneath the riggers.
@@HowNOT2 thanks a lot for your videos by the way, you guys put up a lot of work!
@@HowNOT2 Yes, but for insurance puposes, legal BS, etc, they might need to be certified for use as PPE, which is probably biggest advantage Petzl has over concrete bolts
What were the ones Bobby used
I think they are used a lot in speleology. (caving)
Oh dang, are folks using them underground somehow? I've never seen them used for caving in the US, but don't have much insight for international stuff. I'd be curious the preference for them versus concrete screws. (: