How To : TFSI TIMING BELT and CHAIN
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- Опубліковано 7 чер 2024
- In this video i tackle the timing on my Mk5 Golf GTI.
Belt and Chain!!
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Thank you so much for the simple timing explanation, the forums are awash with cryptic and incorrect information, and you're extremely straightforward!
Cheers, the forum pages are indeed a load of crap generally 🤔
**there's some great info on the forums, but if ya arent mechanically inclined and sometimes even if you are, it can be really hard to separate fact from fiction ..
Great video brother!
@@BabyCharlotteschannel True dat bro. Cheers man 👍👍
Here to say thank you! Did the cam chain on my edition 30, made marks on the cam’s and cradle before I took it off but for some reason was half a tooth out when I put it all back together, still had it’s full power but revs would hang, idle high etc etc. Attempted to sort it a couple of times since but I never got it right, then I came across your tutorial for the chain. Been about a month now since I’ve done it, and touch wood, it seems to be all okay. Counting and marking the chain links away from the brass link was a massive help. Had to subscribe because of it, and will check out more of your videos.
Thanks very much pal, glad it helped you out 👍👍
Excellent content nick straight forward guide got love this guy never fails to deliver
😁😉
I also have to thank you, had to replace the chain and the tensioner in my golf 6 r. Never found any precise info on the right marking/counting according to the chain even in the VW repair guide. With your simple explanation you saved my day👍👍👍. Dropped a like and a sub. Much appreciation from Germany 😉.
Nice one!! Cheers
We just replaced the timing chain on a Seat Leon 1P 2009 thanks to your guide. Great job! Keep up the good work!
So welcome. Thanks 👍 😊
Thank you for this video and the other one on rounded cam bolt removal. The technique worked perfectly. Needed to check my cam timing as something wasn't right on a car I bought. Turned out to be a broken cam locator pin so the variator had moved slightly causing sluggish performance. The video allowed me to confirm I had assembled it properly. Cheers
Nice one dude, glad it helped.
Great video, really well explained and nice to see you do the actual job and explain what your doing.keep them coming.
Cheers 👍👍
Brilliant video. Great advice and perfectly explained. 👍
Why Thankyou 👍
You saved my life with the chain marking everything else I found said the copper piece went on the exhaust sprocket and my car ran like shit for the last 5 months no boost p0016 code and I new it had something to do with the timing but couldn’t figure out what and I switched the chain to tha way you showed and she’s back to herself thanks again
No problem, glad it helped.
It's irrelevant which side the link goes on, but I use it in this way to make install easier. 👍
Had the pleasure of meeting Nick yesterday. Top man! Brilliant video Nick...helps a lot for someone one like me who didn't know much about what this work involves!
Pleasure to meet you too pal. Thanks for the custom 👍
Sitting in every mans place of freedom "the bog" and low & behold my fav popped up, be here now till dogs need walking. Looking forward to this one. Peace and thanks Sid
Hope it doesn't disappoint, and you get to finish "it"...😝
Finished that mega job in toilet (well thats what i told her). Now going to get in bed and watch again 😆😆😆🙏
thanks mate. I head a leaking head gasket, leaking valve seals and a bunch of other stuff. did everything myself besides the head: brought the head to a specialist and they repaired the valves as well. BUT.... they put the intake cam 1 tooth off of the cam chain sprocket on the intake cam..... I was done waiting, so your video helped alot. thanks
Nice one pal, glad it helped and you got it fixed.
Excellent knowledge , good job!
Awsome content as usual
you gave me the confidence to do the timing belt and chain on my cupra 1p 2.0 tfsi thanks man! gonna buy me the skf kit tomorrow
Just had mine changed ended up taking it to a garage for them to do it. Costly job but no more rattle on cold start and of course peace of mind 👌🏻
Cool, nice to see you definately needed it then 👍
Right on time Nick, I'm servicing my GTI and doing the belt when I get home 😄
😂 do it pal. Its not all bad on a mk5 🔥
@@DecimalTenths I managed the chain and tensioner without destroying the engine so belt should be a doddle! Will give you a shout once it's all sorted to finally get to the bottom of that wastegate problem. 👍
@@chriseddie4281whats up with the wastegate?? I liked the one vid showing putting a little more tension on the spring to get that little bit more boost out of it..
Think it was here, i e seen a whole lot of really helpful vids here which is nice since i have always done EVERYTHING myself.. guess being a mechanic has some benefits.. lol
Brilliant nick as usual
Thankyou pal
Another great video, very informative 👍
You'll be able to tackle it now...😉😂
Thank you for this in depth video!
Cheers!!
Nice do like the bit with marking the old belt too
I love the gti videos, very technical, i subscribe
Cheers 👍👍
Absolutely fantastic video. I have a Mkg GTI and Im looking to get this looked at with regards to all the timing!!!!
👍👍
Nice one! Great info and keep it up.
Thank you for doing this video! A3 back on the road again!
👍👍
I've just come across your channel, and I just say I am super happy with finding out your 20 minutes away, I need the work that you're doing done so will be contacting you real soon
Nice one cheers. Give us a shout and we can sort you out 👍👍
Great advice, thanks for this
Cheers 👍
Lovely content mate 💯
Cheers 🙌
great presentation
Well explained thanks man mine is on -4 so I'm going to change the timing chain asap
Class. Do it for the peace of mind pal
👏 very helpful ordering parts now :)
When my mates mk5 gti was in to get the timing chain done the mechanic that was on it phoned in sick the next day when it was due to be built back up 😁 horrible job which you made look straightforward 👏😎
People do tend to fear it, and it can go wrong when the cambolt rounds off which this one did...🙈. Check put the next video 👍
@@DecimalTenths will do man 🙂👍
Literally just did mine your vid helped a lot surly doesn’t matter what way the chain goes does it ? Iv seen vids where good link is facing the engine did my a4 today turned it over by hand double checked perfect 👌
Nice one, no it doesn't matter at all which way the link faces.
Great content, just binge watched a load on your channel lol. Back to this vid as struggling to figure out my values. Should these all be measured at idle? On idle my duty cycle sits at 5.9%, 28° spec and 24.5° actual. Block 93 shows -3°. However if revs are increased slightly, the spec and actual in 91 tighten right up. Is this normal? Cheers
hoping you put out a full intake camshaft replacement video, all the ones ive seen on here dont go nearly into the detail or clarity of yours.
Outstanding
Great information! I got my chain kit ordered. Wondering what is the name of the tool you use to move the intake cam back to get the exhaust gear back on?
It comes in the TFSI chain tool kit 👍
I would like to thank you very much i did a timing chain change for my mk5 gti like what you showed us simple and straight forward
I did the test with vcds before it was -4 after installing new kit it reads 0
Thank you so much
Nice one well done 👍👍
Thanks for the video. Very well explained. I followed the explanation and changed the chain on my audi a4 b7 2.0T fsi because it had the p0016 code and the readings from the measuring block indicates specified 28kw and actual 31.4kw for the camshaft adjustment. After changing the chain, the readings became 28kw specified and between 27.5 and 28 kw, yet the p0016 code is still there. Please kindly help me, what do I need to do to clear the p0016 code. Thanks
What's the phase position in block 093? Check that, and also log the car whilst driving to make sure the req vs actual agree.
Thank you for the help . Man that bolt is tight on cam chain is tight
Yeah man, it certainly is
Hi, great tutorial video! I recently bought a GTI and checked the engine group 93 values - it looks fine (-1.0KW). I didnt check group 91 tho. What does that mean for the timing chain and timing belt? Are they both in good condition or I can only be sure about the chain? I am a little bit worried about the cover next to the fuel pump (yours has white "GTD" writing on it) mine is very dark and oily - what could that possibly mean? Previous owner stated he did some work on timing 13k miles ago.
Great video, given me the confidence to attempt it myself. Should I lubricate the chain and tensioner with fresh engine oil when assembling? And maybe put a few drops on the camshaft too?
It won't hurt, but it's not needed.
I try to keep everything clean and dry so i dont get oil or anything on the gasket surfaces or anywhere its not supposed to be.. but like he said it wont hurt and it will have oil all over it the second its started...
Nice video man!! Had cam chain & tensioner replaced on my s3 8p and timing now looks same as yours, spot on!! Can you please also explain in block 091 what the cam. adjustment int bank 1 6.3% means??? If it means anything of course.... Thank you!
Cheers dude. That is the duty cycle on the VVT (N205) solenoid. Essentially how hard it is working. It will change with revs to make the actual cam position match the specified. Around 6% at idle is perfect.
Great video, do you have any videos doing a timing chain on VW golf 5 FSI engine?
Cheers, sorry no we don't see many of them 😬
Excellent video nick. Where did you get the timing chain and tensioner kit from ?
We supply them direct from VAG pal. Send us a message if you want a cost on a kit
I’ve a mk5 gti 06 plate 77k bought it of bloke with only 41k on the clock anyway timing chain was stretched to hell he put diesel oil in it to hide it wasn’t till it was warm started knocking badley got it fixed of a mate,the cover was wrecked with chain slap,thought the job would be massive but after watching this had to sub and binge watch
Thx for sharing
I appreciate the content nick do you think you could provide a part number for the vvti oil control rings as tps have no idea what I’m talking about much appreciated
any update for the part number? :)
Excellent
Quality vid..defo need me cam timing chain sorting..sounds like a diesel!
Just TFSI life that man....😂😝
Thank you soo much for the video. You just saved my ass 😅
I wish I had seen this video before changing my chain. I have VCDS but didn't think to check the chain stretch. Anyway, good thing I did change the chain and tensioner.
Defo, sadly they do snap if not maintained
Hey, thank you for the video, that is actually the single best for that repair.
If that bolt does strip, though, what would be your go to solution? Drill it out or go for one of those stripped bolt kits with the left-threaded drill bits?
Thanks in advance for your response!
I've made a video on the bolt stripping 👍👍
@@DecimalTenths Awesome, I'll check it out right away! Thx
Any chance you could link the vdcs tool you use in the video?
Спасибо вам большое, с помощью вашего видео я поменял натяжитель цепи и фазорегулятор
🤔🤣
Which is the right kit to buy as many part shops just say it’s a 2 item part and some say it’s got more than 2 things etc. I have an 05 plate AXX engine.
Just finished 30 minutes ago. My gti started up so quiet and smooth 🎉
Sweet 👍👍
@@DecimalTenths she sounds like a beast again. My tune sounds much heavier & my power has been restored. The fixed timing is also excellent
@@CR15PY1 class mate. Good to hear 👌
Hi! I have done the same job, and it starts ok. But after it gets the choke period done, my idle is very rough, and shakes the hole car. I have a p1093 fault code. The car runs well, and have a good engine sound. Any ideas, how to fix this problem?
Ohh, and i didn’t see any air flow in the real time data... i tried to pull the air flow meter, but it didn’t get any better.
Hi Nick, do I need to be a TDC when I time up the cam chain? Thanks for the videos. Nick.
Yes, really you should, but as long as the cams are in position so that the timing tool slots over, it kinda is irrelevant. Defo TDC whenever doing timing work though for me 👍
Great content keep it up.How much should it cost to get both done labour and parts please can u tell me individually please thank
To get both done it would be about £1k with genuine parts.
Hey indeed great video and very entertaining. I did this job once and will need to repeat it. Can i ask how do you deal with the bolts? Do you just tension them by feeling and reuse the old ones? I am a bit of a newbie, and the guidelines keep saying replace the bolts since they are yield-bolts. But I am assuming that its a bit of a fuzz
Cheers 👍 Depends which bolts.
Tensioner, VVT unit then replace. All others such as rocker, chain end cover, engine mounting bolts in a DIY setting I'd reuse. In the workshop we would assess them and either reuse or replace depending on condition and ability to get to yield again.
@@DecimalTenths Hey thank you for your reply, yes of course rather uncritical bolts such as engine mounting bolts. I dont believe they need the 100% specified torque, however each time i reuse I am scared that it will sheer
Hi, if the timing chain and tensioner was set correctly the slot on the intake sprocket should be exactly at the 12 and 6 o'clock position to accept the vacuum pump? Thanks
Irrelevant... if it is in a different position, then rotate the vacuum pump to suit 👍
Hi friend , great video , why or at what point , do you put the pin in the tensioner ?? Before installing the locking tool , did you set the engine at any point, moving the wheel ? Or this is not necessary ?? Many many thanks
The pin stays in the tensioner until the bolt is tightened, and then the pin is released.
What did you get the timing locking tools from?
Great video! I done all this but my car still knocking and rattling, sometimes the oil pressure light comes up and then goes away
Drop the sump, clean and check the pickup pipe. 👍
Did you notice any change in idle and cold start noise?
Thinking i'm needing a new belt and cam follower soon, so would be good to listen for pointers.
If you have timing issues then you will notice a difference. You shouldn't notice a difference though if everything is OK
This was really useful thanks!
My S3 had HPFP failure and I've replaced: Cam chain cover (The bore for the follower was damaged), Hpfp for a new unit and replaced the HPFP internals and the piston was damaged (They're uprated as car is stage 2+)
using my cheap reader I can see that my fuel rail pressure can't keep up at full throttle, if I put foot down and wind to maximum boost the fuel rail pressure drops down to almost zero, the engine floods and won't start until it's been sat for 20 mins.
My intake cam lobe had some wear following the failure, I cleaned it up with 2000 grit and metal polish then changed the oil and filter..
I'm thinking that I need to replace my intake cam due to lobe wear.
Is the process for replacing the intake cam pretty much what you showed in this video plus just swapping the cam over? There's nothing needs re-shimming if I'm changing cams?
Thank you! Much appreciated
Hi pal,
Sounds like you've had a mare...🙈.
To remove the inlet cam you will have to remove the upper cam cap/cradle which also holds down the exhaust cam. This can be done leaving the exhaust cam timed up via the belt, but just be careful if you're not removing the belt, to ensure it doesn't come off. Also when refitting the cradle make sure you're careful when torturing up.
Not a terrible job to be honest. The ideal way is obviously to unhook the timing belt and relieve the pressure from the exhaust side.
@@DecimalTenths I really have! Been off the road 3 weeks so far and cannot find any garage that will work on it without charging nearly 2k! Hence why I'm looking myself 🤦♂️ Thanks for that, doesn't sound too bad, the car has also developed a leak from the hpfp since i swapped that out 🤣 If the thing drives again it'll be a miracle!
Very good information especially using VCDS. One thing that I did see is you didn't replace the motor mount bolts. On the Audi with the stretch bolts this is a necessity. Is the VW different?
No they are the same, so "should" be replaced. I didn't on this one admittedly as first of all it's mine.., and secondly I knew i had to pull them off again a week later as the engine came out to fix a snapped stud
Great video thank you. Can you tell me what the recommended mileage is on these chains for replacement or is it officially a non serviceable item?
You'll want to change it every 80k miles, and if there's no history get it checked at least for the chain stretch guidance in the vid 👍
@@DecimalTenths loads of history but nothing for the timing chain and considering its got 112k miles on it it ma be over due!! Thanks a lot.
Mate please explain how you remove the intermediate engine mount that bolts to the engine. Do you have to remove drive shafts to allow for enough movement? I see when you're putting back together you have the intermediate engine mount in, but not timing cover on, my timing cover is all one piece so cannot fit after mount is on, please reply you legend.
Hey pal, I assume you have an AXX engine with a 1 piece cover?
If so then the procedure is to remove the drives haft and disconnect the exhaust to allow the e gine to tilt enough to remove the cover. Most people snap it off and replace it with the 2 piece covers. The 1 piece was a short lived shit idea...
Quick question @DecimalTenths
I changed the chain & tensioner but I'm not happy with how it idles. So I re did it & it's still not right. Before I do it again.. What do you think of this. When I do a scan this is how it reads
Block 91
Engine speed 720/760
Cam adjustment intake B1 74/76%
At idle. It has a new vvt. So it's not that. What could be causing such high readings. It's doin my nut in.
Cam adjustment B1 specified 24 kw
CAM adjustment actual 24/25kw
Block 93
Engine speed 720/760
Engine load 13.5/14
(yours is 16.5%)
Phase position B1 is -1.
That's at full temperature too
Any help please
It's a 2005 axx engine
Great Video! I will always mark the belt like you do from now on. Ok, here's my issue after replacing the timing belt on my 2007 Audi 2.0tfsi BWT. Timing belt changed, car up and running. Now I plug in VCDS to check cam chain and in timing block 091 getting 6.3 / 28.0 and in block 093 I'm getting +5kw. I was expecting a -4 or -5kw since I just rolled over 200,000 mi (320,000 km). So I pulled off time cover, checked the marks on cam and crank pulley and they look correct. pulled spark plug 1 and double checked for TDC and that looks good. Am I correct that +5kw means the timing is advance? I've been hearing what I think is a bit of cam chain slap on startup, so I'm getting parts together to do the work and when I checked VCDS I got the +5kw. Also did the cam pulley seal while I was in there. Could I have put this together wrong or have the belt 1 tooth off? Have you seen this before?
Yeah we see positive (advanced) figures often. Generally not as big as 5kw, but its nothing to be worried about. The timing sounds correct from your figures. Remember the phase position is merely a measurement of error (normal to have some), and can indicate a tolerance in the timing components as well as a fault.
Best bet is to replace the chain, tensioner etc with genuine bits and see where it is then.if it's still out, then at least you have peace of mind that there's no danger of it snapping.
Then road logging would confirm the VVTs ability to adjust cam timing inline with specified.
@@DecimalTenths What blocks can I use in vcds to check the n205 and could that be the problem causing the +5kw? and would low oil volume or pressure create a +5kw?
And if it's not too much to ask, what is the road logging procedure?
Thanks for the quick response!
Thanks for the video. I'm going to be doing this on my edition 35. Do you have a part number for the oil control rings please?
Sure 06F198107A 👍
Are they on the edition 35s as I rang TPS and they cannot find them
Servicing my 06 jetta gli with the tfsi today. My timing belt cover is stuck in a cut out on the passenger side motor mount. in the video yours pulled straight out….
It can sometimes be a bit tricky due to the mount and the turbo water return line that runs down there. Just got to be gentle when removing. If it comes out no problem, then it's generally been trimmed by the previous guy who changed the belt. Early TFSIs came with 1 piece covers which are appallingly bad to remove 🙈
well i spoke to soon, have an oil leak that i have not been able to find where it is coming from. The engine is a left/right configuration, timing belt is on the left side when standing in front of the car. So when i get under the car on my back i can see the exhaust manifold. It looks like there is a rail or something that the oil is coming from. The exhaust manifold does not have any oil on it, the turbo assembly is completely dry. Any suggestions would be helpful, I'd send you a pick but don't think that is possible. Thanks again!!!
I always do this and transfer marks over from belt too belt always easier in my opinion
Cos you know pal 😉👍👍
I have +2.3 on Bank 1 and +3.8 on Bank 2 (this is for a 3.0T TFSI Supercharged), should I be concerned?
Second watch for this video. Can I ask, when you do the timing chain does the engine have to be at TDC?
The notches in the cams need to be at tdc so that the timing tool bolts in correctly. 👍
I was wondering if you took off the timing chain cover without removing the vacuum pump? It’s hard to tell, any idea as to why my vacuum pump was stuck?😂 I took of the 3 bolts and it wouldn’t budge lol, was it because it put it in tdc?
No they can be stuck sometimes, and we've even seen them jammed up with silicone from previous removals too. It will come out with the 3 bolts removed.
I just got my exhaust sprocket off. I had a chain guide failure top and bottom. Can I reuse my stock vvt sprocket? Looks in good shape, I do have a replacement though . Non oem
Hi yeah you can reuse if its in good condition
On my S3 its showing a +1 reading so I'm guessing it's been done recently when the head was removed and cleaned ready for the block mod and the RS3 injectors! Great video liked and subbed :)
Yep that sounds bang on pal. Cheers 👍👍
It's only done 1,500 miles since the rebuild but at least I have some idea on how to monitor it now so will just do a quick check once a month? Today it developed a suspected air leak after the idle went crazy, so checked out the throttle body on VCDS plus the sensor both seemed ok and working correctly, so we had the smoke tester out with the UV glasses and torch to finally locate a burst pipe right under the manifold 🤦♂️ These videos on UA-cam actually help a novice with diagnosing problems rather than running to the garage for everything 💪
Like just for the Shmee thing.
Glad I'm not the only one
Pretty sure we all feel the same way mate 🙈🤣
Danke sehr gut erklärt endlich richtige Videos gefunden habe 👍👍👍
Danke, mein Freund, ich bin froh, dass sie dir gefallen
@@DecimalTenthsHallo kannst du mir erklären steuerkette 1.8T motor Code ADR
I'm completing this job on a b6 passat right now. Where does the ground point attach to the camshaft timing cover. I'm not sure if I have it in the right spot
It attached to a metal bracket which bolts to the top of the cover with a multispline headed bolt
Finally put a new chain on! Thoughts on phase position being at +1KW? My adjustment is 27.5-28KW. Car has no codes. It has a jerky rpm randomly which I can't figure out! Pulls good though. New plugs, New coils, New pvc, New crank position sensor, injectors cleaned with new orings, clean intake valves, clean throttle body. New 75/80/205 sensor/etc. New battery and alternator. I'm so lost lol. Vcds shows no codes
Yeah +1 is fine 👍
Huge question tho before I do this. The crank tdc mark is spot on the cam is 1/8th off just like a sliver.. it was running an driving before the cam chain tensioner just broke so I figured Id do it all at once. Which one should I make sure is spot on since when the cam is at the tdc marks the crank is a little before it… when crank is at tdc arrow the cam is a little past it..
The cam marking is on plastic so could be slightly out. Confirm it by measuring tdc down the no.1 spark plug hole. There is a way of doing the belt by counting teeth also.
Fantastic video, looking to check my timing soon, in block 91 i have a requested value of 28 degrees all the time and my actual between 34 - 36 degrees and no phase value, have you seen this before?
Yes pal,
Your timing is incorrect. For that actual value with no phase then I'd suggest that your belt is a few teeth out. Possible chain also, but start woth checking the belt first 👍
@@DecimalTenths spot on, was exactly 2 teeth out. turns out the shop that did the cambelt 2 years ago messed it up. i owe you one buddy
@@chriswilliams1607 Nice one, glad it helped pal 👍
What vcds do you recommend? Great video!
We use unlimited vin. But you could get limited if you only needed it for your car.
Followed this video for a cam chain, tensioner and VVT replacement today, phase position was around +6kw before and is now sitting at +10kw!! I have stripped it down twice and same reading!! Any ideas? Thanks
I would log the car on a pull, for block 091-2/3 req vs actual. If they agree with no fault codes then its doing its job. You could leave it with the peace of mind that you hVe replaced the chain and tensioner. If you wanted to dig further then check the oil control rings, n205 vvt solenoid and cam position sensor.
Hello mate, my son did his servicing for a 08 Reg Golf TSI but after few days he found the engine warning light on. I connect by OBD an cleared the fault. But now the engine is not starting and the AA said it's possibly the timing belt as it's not starting at all. I doubt it as everything was perfectly fine until I cleared the fault. Do you think it need the crankshaft sensor changing. There is no knocking sound when turning the engine.
Hi there,
This is the type of fault in which I could diagnose pretty quickly if the car was in front of me. You can check the output of the crank sensor in a decent diagnostic tool which will give you the answer. I wouldnt recommend guessing and firing parts at it. Best to book in here or somewhere local to you who can diagnose for you
Hi man, nice video to see! I got an problem with my GTI. P000a. Pashe position its -1.0. Its an new chain and cam adjuster. Its possible to turn the belt sproket a little bit.?
Could be a few things, did you replace the 3 oil control rings with the chain. The code is more related to the vvt n205 solenoid and the vvts ability to adjust.
@@DecimalTenths Thankyou for reaction. I got new rings in the cover oem vw. And a new Febi n205 valve.
I dont know what to do. The fault code come back after 60km of driving. Maybe an bad oil? I use petronas 5 w 30. (For my other gti no problems with stage 2 tune)
First, I want to say thank you for this incredible video. You have no idea how helpful it was for me. Second, I do not have VCDS but I do have an Autel MS906BT. how do I find such values there? I am handy with mechanical stuff, but when it comes to the software side of things, I fall flat on my face. Any help will be greatly appreciated! I have a 2007 VW GTI if it helps. Thanks a lot for making these videos!
We don't use that system sadly dude. But the measuring block or love data always has the same numbers regardless of system, so look for love data/measuring blocks 091 093 👍
@@DecimalTenths great, that's plenty of help. Thank you again!
Hi bud, first off the video spot on saved me some money! But my vcds is saying its 6.0kw and not 0? I stripped it down again and checked and everything is timed correctly any other suggestion?
Would have to know more to help pal.
What is block 091 saying?
Fire me over an email with info if you want.
nick@decimaltenths.co.uk
Hi bud
Thank-you for the reply email sent
Hi @DecimalTenths I changed my chain and tensioner last weekend (INA set) my readings before were -3/-4 after changing the set now it is on -2. BTW I used your video as a guide.
visually when everything was mounted the chain looked exactly like yours. I was hoping to get to 0.
However, when doing a cold start I can still hear some very short chain rattle for a tiny bit of a second. is the tensioner maybe faulty even if new?
best regards
Hi there,
-2 is an OK measurement. It's common on the non oem kits like INA to have some tolerance.
The tensioner is oil fed so drop your sump and clean out your pickup to ensure it gets good flow from startup.
@@DecimalTenths after hearing some minor rattling on cold starts, I decided to take the new set off after only 200kms. What I noticed is that the chain became really "stiff" and if it seized somehow. Now I don't know what to do. I ordered another set, maybe the chain was faulty or maybe there is another problem with oil preassure. I installed a 1.8t oilpump and a bolt on oil Filter housing from a fsi first gen. Only checked the oil preassure once before starting the car since IT was a complete rebuild, the oil preassure was building up to around 2.5 bar at starting (without ignition)
15:38 Tried this method, engine chokes! Is it different for two liter FSI, if yes, how many links do I have to count? Thank you in advance
No different if it is the same family of engines.
hello, GTI MK5 here. In group 091 I get 28 degrees (spec) and 26.5 degrees (actual). on group 093 I get -3.00 degrees. What I have wrong? also do you recomend replacing the cam adjuster when doing the chain? thank you in advance!
Hi yes you should replace the tensioner. You don't need to replace the adjuster if yours is in good condition.
Did you use Genuine parts?
so i did mine and it all seems fine, no weird sounds or anything, sounds amazing on idle and revs just fine, but ive noticed tiny small backfires when the car is cold and i rev it, and i honestly dont think ive had that before. as soon as the cars gain temp the pops stop. could the timing be off?, i think i need to get my self one of those readers
It is possible that your timing is out. Best to check it and know for sure 👍
My phase position on group 93 is at -20. Group 91 shows within 1.5 degree of spec vs actual. Timing chain kit done 50k ago, no rattle from there at all either. Cambelt kit only 1 year ago.
No idea how it's that far out and not sure where to investigate. Occasional blips in engine feel at low RPMS, but starts quickly, pulls great and no codes besides p0016 002. Any ideas?
Definately a timing error code there. Got to go through it all - check belt timing, check chain timing (might as well replace if going in that deep), check the variator pulley isn't seized, check the gauze on the back of the tensioner is intact, assemble and log vvt position vs spec.
I just changed the thermostat housing, belt and tensioner, on my gti. They're the biggest jobs ive done as diyer. Ive just had the belts and water pump done by VW. There's a slight rattle on the chain also now im thinking i could change it myself. What you reckon?
Anyway subscribed 👊
Cool pal,
If you're a keen diyer then this job isn't a bad one. Just lots to look out for. The thermostat housing is the worst TFSI job in my opinion
Ah i should clarify the belt and tensioner was the alternator not the timing. Ill watch this a few more times first. You make it look so easy. I know id be pulling my hair out doin it 😬
Hello ! I have +8 at position 093 what should i do?
how do you support the engine when you remove the engine support block ?
We do it 2 ways. Most of the time we have an engine support arm which goes between the wings and holds the engine from the top.
On this video I simply placed a big wooden block underneath the sump so I could get better camera shots...🤣