Thanks for this. I've had new front pads sitting on my work bench for 6-9 months because I thought that pin would be a pain to deal with. Now I plan to change them out this weekend. Good video.
Any chance of doing a caliper removal and brake pad change for the rear,i ended up with pads and anti squeal shim coming out,in the past i have just taken pads out and replaced without removing caliper,nice and clear explanation by the way
What year is your vfr? I have a '98 and I didnt' think it had linked braking, so I was wondering if that was what was going on with the "floating caliper" you mentioned. Also is there no bleeding of the brake fluid involved?
I'm missing a very important part in this video which is the bolts can be unscrewed using regular tools but when screwing them back in you should use a torque wrench set to indicated settings according the Honda Manual.
I did the same last week without removing the calipers. Only problem is to get the pistons back in to get enough clerance for the new pads. Otherwise it was a ~10 min job incl. the both calipers.
i would put p.t.f.e tape on the little blanking screw thread so its easier to remove next time,they get stuck and screwdriver slips and the slot gets chewed up
You would need to bleed the brakes if you had removed the brake fluid but if you are just pushing the pistons back in then all that's happening is fluid is forced back in to the reservoir without introducing any air. If you are fitting some aftermarket pads that are thicker than the ones taken out then you should take the top off of the brake reservoir otherwise when it's full the pistons wont go all the way back in. If you have the piston where your caliper mounts to the fork then that would be the input to the back brake, the torque reaction caused by the pads biting moves the piston in forcing the brake brake on. Don't forget to bleed that bit too if you change your fluid.
Thanks for this. I've had new front pads sitting on my work bench for 6-9 months because I thought that pin would be a pain to deal with. Now I plan to change them out this weekend. Good video.
Thank you Sussex biker, I have a VFR single sided swing arm on my 954 blade, just watched your video and it was very usefull informative
Likin the horn dude, nice touch. Ain't no-one not seein you comin now ;)
Good job. Clear and easy to follow. I would like to throw in behind P Matty and request the rear caliper change also. Thanks again great videos.
Any advice on how to get the pistons back in….im struggling with that part
That top bolt on the left side can be a bugger. Stripped it the first time I changed the pads and ended up having to drill it. Minor nightmare.
So I only need some copper grease and some brake cleaner to do this (besides tools of course)?
I will be doing this shortly - - greatly appreciated, thanks
Thank you for posting this.
Any chance of doing a caliper removal and brake pad change for the rear,i ended up with pads and anti squeal shim coming out,in the past i have just taken pads out and replaced without removing caliper,nice and clear explanation by the way
Is this the same for the Honda Blackbird?
Jobs a good'un. Cheers mate.
Good stuff. Very informative
What year is your vfr? I have a '98 and I didnt' think it had linked braking, so I was wondering if that was what was going on with the "floating caliper" you mentioned.
Also is there no bleeding of the brake fluid involved?
I'm missing a very important part in this video which is the bolts can be unscrewed using regular tools but when
screwing them back in you should use a torque wrench set to indicated settings according the Honda Manual.
I'm getting ready to try this on my '98. do you happen to know the torque values for those bolts?
I did the same last week without removing the calipers. Only problem is to get the pistons back in to get enough clerance for the new pads. Otherwise it was a ~10 min job incl. the both calipers.
villho so how did you get the pistons back?
i would put p.t.f.e tape on the little blanking screw thread so its easier to remove next time,they get stuck and screwdriver slips and the slot gets chewed up
You would need to bleed the brakes if you had removed the brake fluid but if you are just pushing the pistons back in then all that's happening is fluid is forced back in to the reservoir without introducing any air. If you are fitting some aftermarket pads that are thicker than the ones taken out then you should take the top off of the brake reservoir otherwise when it's full the pistons wont go all the way back in.
If you have the piston where your caliper mounts to the fork then that would be the input to the back brake, the torque reaction caused by the pads biting moves the piston in forcing the brake brake on. Don't forget to bleed that bit too if you change your fluid.
Thanks!
Me too man thanks! U helped me understand my vfr more! Check it out youtube blacrsx