Just a short video showing how to change the rear brake pads. Hopefully it will help someone. As Always thanks for watching. Title Music : Actionable - www.bensound.com
Thanks so much your video, been watching it in build up to change rear pads on my 2012 VFR800X . Bicycle mechanic for many years. After last few disappointing shop service ,front brakes and new chain and sprockets 😮I decided to get a torque spanner and do it with Care! The 800x is a little different from the one in the video but your thorough I'm depth video gave me the confidence to do the job, big Cheers 👍 The pistons took a good few goes to get all way trial and error eventually got there. My main issue was after giving the calipers a good spray of brake cleaner and cleaning everything off I ended up with a thin copper membrane that I had no idea where to fit. Several hours and call a mate later I still had no clue. At this point another neighbour offered a smoke , green in nature🌬️. And after refitted callipers and much thought I worked out that only logical place would be against bottom of calliper, giving I guess a copper slip for the pads to move on👍 Still not 100% sure and I get that logic not always prevail, that said it's not going anywhere,as under pad edges and whilst loose when fitting it did kinda seem the only place to fit. Fitted the rear wheel at 4am after along day scratching thy head and only my pipe to go now 🎉. Raining here today and body aches everywhere from doing what you made simple a rather hard job on a bike with no centre stand 😮 a single sided paddock stand working 20cm from the ground 😢 Not pumped the brakes yet but spun wheel a few times and so quiet compared to my Shop $$ installation of front brakes that basically all they did was swap the pads. I even took time to polish up my 4 chrome wheel nuts , cause I could and give rear wheel a thorough clean too . Nice to do things proper like. Especially when pads I removed where original ones , 52,000km , 12yo. Thank again for the confidence you gave me to do the job with care👍
you must be the only guy on the internet , who knows the correct place to put copperslip on brake pads. btw , thanks for telling me where the other caliper bolt is , it was one of the most frustrating jobs , changing my rear pads
great video thank you for taking the time to make it! I just purchased a 2003 Honda VFR with 13000 miles and I'm doing a brake job right now. your video makes this job look like a no-brainer, thanks again.
Never done much work on bikes. However I now have an old vfr rather than my usual new supersports . Want to get involved and this video was perfect, not to mention confidence inspiring. Thank you very much. Hope you are able to keep them up
Glad you found it useful that was the whole point of doing the video. Unfortunately I no longer have the VFR but I will still upload videos for the work I do on my z1000sx so they may be useful.
Thanks for this. Just used your vid to help me change the rear pads in my VFR. As no mechanic was available due to the current apocalypse.. Great stuff. 👍👍
doing the pads on my blackbird soon and couldn't find a decent video. your calipers are pretty much the same just in a different place so I'll be going off this. good video, no waffling, just straight to the job.
That was a very clear, concise video! Well done. I'm getting ready to tackle my fronts and back pad replacement on my '98 VFR. I finally bought a Pitbull rear stand so can get the wheel off. I've seen other videos where a lot of copper grease was put on the back of the pads. What would be the purpose of that? I'd think it would collect all manner of dust and grime.
Thanks for watching and commenting. On the subject of putting copper grease on pads the short answer is Don't, although I have been guilty of doing so in the past,I'll explain why back when I was an apprentice it was common practice on cars to smear lots of copper grease on brake pads to eliminate squeal- this is how I was taught and has stayed with me and probably many other mechanics/techs (I know better now!). As times have gone on brake pad technology has changed and if you consult car and motorcycle brake pad manufacturers they will not advise this practice. There is a good video on UA-cam by a channel called the workshop where he looked into this 'old' practice and showed that it is outdated and wrong. You don't want the risk of any lubricant anywhere near your brakes. Its better to just remove the pads and clean the pistons,calipers and edges of the pads periodically I do it at least once and year especially after winter.
That's a great vid. Really helpful. Did you do vid for the front brake change at any stage? I'm looking to do a brake change on both my 2004 VFR 800 & 2010 CB1000ra and another vid like this for the front would be invalueable. Thanks
TheSussexBiker Cool. I took it for an Mot yesterday n the guy said it's nearly metal on metal?! Doh! Got 10 days before re-test anyway. Safe ridin from Derbyshire.
Great Vid. Its easy to see you know what you are doing. My son has a NC30 400 VFR. Couldnt find a vid on that one but I am sure its all about the same as the 800. I have a 2001 VFR800. last model before the Vtec. Still looks brand new and goes very well. Just love the VFR range.
Hello I used your video to change the pads in my vfr 750 f and after a few days my rear wheel seems a bit stuck and doesnt move freely. What can it be?
Hi i'm sorry you're having troubles, without inspecting the bike personally it is going to be very hard to diagnose the issue, all I can recommend is you double check everything are the pads/shims in correctly does the caliper move freely and is the piston free to move? good luck.
I have the 04. Vfr 800. Thank you for a great instructional video. Well done. One question. Do you ever put a small amount of grease on the back of each pad ? To help eliminate squeaking noises? Just a perfect tutorial. I'm about to do fronts and rear. All 3. And going back with ebc scinterred hh pads. Cheers
Thanks for watching glad you found it useful. I used to put copper slip on the backs of brake pads,but if they have shims I tend just to put a thin smear on the edge of the pads. I think with the dust that is generated it can be counter productive to have too much copper slip around.
After 14,000 miles, on my 2007 VFR800, I am hearing some dragging on the rear brake. I am wondering if it's time to replace the pads. Initial inspection the pads look about like the ones you took off in the video. I know this is a difficult question, but should I expect to be changing out the rear pads at 14,000 miles? The fronts look fine. I am also seeing some grooves on one side of the rear rotor. Should I be concerned?
its hard to give a mileage that they should last. My bike had done around 16000 miles. I would check your pistons are free as well as the sliders. As for the grooves in the disc,depending on how severe they are these could have a detrimental effect on braking/pad life. If it were me and they are not too bad and the disc isn't close to min thickness then I would monitor it. But to be absolutely sure maybe get someone to visually inspect the disc.
Thanks for your reply. I removed the rear caliper this evening and saw the inside pad was worn down and needed to be replaced. That's what was making the noise. I cleaned the pistons, pushed them back and will grease the slider pins with the proper high temp brake caliper grease. I've order a set of pads, once I get them I will install them and be good to go. That one caliper bolt is a bit of a bugger to remove, you need just the right length socket and/or extension. Thanks again for posting the video.
Great videos man. I disassembled the calipers and rebuilt them, bled them to the nines, but they still stick after applying. Not sure why. Copper slip/grease on all sliding surfaces, K&L rebuild kits used. Any idea why it won't release pressure?
Hi..great video. I had a problem getting the wheel off. So i thought I'd just open up the caliper system. I loosened the 3 nuts on the right hand side(if u are standing behind your bike), the right pad fell out. Putting it back proved a bit tricky as i damage the spring pad. I had to order another one but so far the back wheel is seizing up when i tightened the 3 nuts back. Please can u tell me how tight those should be and if there is a way to loosen the pressure a bit, even if the nuts are tight
Hi sorry to hear of your troubles I'm struggling to work out what you undid the three bolts on the right viewed from the rear include the hydraulic lines?? If you have a bent spring pad that won't be helping. If you search online for a workshop manual this may help you.
TheSussexBiker I couldn't get the back wheel off so thought I'd get at the pads another way. I have ordered.. Pls have a look @this link www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-72860-72860-VFR800FE-2014-F_17-VFR+800+F.html Look at fibre 3 or where it says spring pad. That is the part I messed up. When I replace with the new one, if there isn't free rolling on the back wheel, pls do u know if there is a way to make sure the pads don't impede the rolling action? Thaanks for any response at all
Ahh I see. you need to make sure the pistons are free and also the sliders are not sticking, although looking at the link I see yours is a 2014 bike so they should not be too corroded. I think you need to get the new spring pad and remove and reassemble double checking everything as you go. You should be able to rotate the wheel freely and the pads should just be rubbing lightly so something is assembled wrong but without being able to physically inspect it's going to be hard to tell what. Good luck and let me know what you find.
Thanks for watching,glad it helped. To replace a rear wheel stud,you are going to need to strip out the rear axle and get the brake disc off from looking at the workshop manual. Search online for a Honda repair repair (they are out their). Good luck :)
Having been a Vehicle Tech for many years and very paranoid about fixings coming loose, I always like to double check what I've torqued up - call it being anal :)
Thanks so much your video, been watching it in build up to change rear pads on my 2012 VFR800X . Bicycle mechanic for many years. After last few disappointing shop service ,front brakes and new chain and sprockets 😮I decided to get a torque spanner and do it with Care!
The 800x is a little different from the one in the video but your thorough I'm depth video gave me the confidence to do the job, big Cheers 👍
The pistons took a good few goes to get all way trial and error eventually got there.
My main issue was after giving the calipers a good spray of brake cleaner and cleaning everything off I ended up with a thin copper membrane that I had no idea where to fit. Several hours and call a mate later I still had no clue. At this point another neighbour offered a smoke , green in nature🌬️. And after refitted callipers and much thought I worked out that only logical place would be against bottom of calliper, giving I guess a copper slip for the pads to move on👍
Still not 100% sure and I get that logic not always prevail, that said it's not going anywhere,as under pad edges and whilst loose when fitting it did kinda seem the only place to fit.
Fitted the rear wheel at 4am after along day scratching thy head and only my pipe to go now 🎉. Raining here today and body aches everywhere from doing what you made simple a rather hard job on a bike with no centre stand 😮 a single sided paddock stand working 20cm from the ground 😢
Not pumped the brakes yet but spun wheel a few times and so quiet compared to my Shop $$ installation of front brakes that basically all they did was swap the pads.
I even took time to polish up my 4 chrome wheel nuts , cause I could and give rear wheel a thorough clean too . Nice to do things proper like. Especially when pads I removed where original ones , 52,000km , 12yo. Thank again for the confidence you gave me to do the job with care👍
you must be the only guy on the internet , who knows the correct place to put copperslip on brake pads. btw , thanks for telling me where the other caliper bolt is , it was one of the most frustrating jobs , changing my rear pads
Hi thanks for watching and glad it was useful :)
great video thank you for taking the time to make it! I just purchased a 2003 Honda VFR with 13000 miles and I'm doing a brake job right now. your video makes this job look like a no-brainer, thanks again.
Thanks for watching glad you found it useful :)
I wondered why the middle piston wasn't moving! I was worried it was seized...
Thank you!
Don't even have this bike but still found it interesting to watch
Many thanks for the kind comment :)
Never done much work on bikes. However I now have an old vfr rather than my usual new supersports . Want to get involved and this video was perfect, not to mention confidence inspiring. Thank you very much. Hope you are able to keep them up
Glad you found it useful that was the whole point of doing the video. Unfortunately I no longer have the VFR but I will still upload videos for the work I do on my z1000sx so they may be useful.
Awesome, no wasted talking just straight to the job.
robert heinz Thanks for watching
Thanks for this. Just used your vid to help me change the rear pads in my VFR. As no mechanic was available due to the current apocalypse.. Great stuff. 👍👍
Glad it was useful thanks for watching :)
Great video man. You didn't bore me to tears with a big introduction. Awesome. Thanks a bunch !
doing the pads on my blackbird soon and couldn't find a decent video. your calipers are pretty much the same just in a different place so I'll be going off this. good video, no waffling, just straight to the job.
Exceptional Video Sir, used it today to do my 1st rear brake job on my 07 Interceptor. Thank You very much for the instructions!
Glad it was of use many thanks for watching.
Great video. Yes i looked at allsorts of different makes of brake pads and yes i went for stock Honda ones cant go wrong. :)
Thanks for watching and commenting. Glad the video was useful. Good choice with the pads :)
Спасибо за видео . Очень помогло . Даже не зная английский язык. Все understand. Thanks so much
Great video! I hope it will be applicable to my 2013 VFR1200F!
Thanks for the Kind comment. I have no idea if it's the same as a 2013 but hopefully it will be helpful
Thank you so much for the great video. Now it is clear and understandable. Really appreciate it.
Thanks for the kind comments and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. Really helpful
That was a very clear, concise video! Well done. I'm getting ready to tackle my fronts and back pad replacement on my '98 VFR. I finally bought a Pitbull rear stand so can get the wheel off. I've seen other videos where a lot of copper grease was put on the back of the pads. What would be the purpose of that? I'd think it would collect all manner of dust and grime.
Thanks for watching and commenting. On the subject of putting copper grease on pads the short answer is Don't, although I have been guilty of doing so in the past,I'll explain why back when I was an apprentice it was common practice on cars to smear lots of copper grease on brake pads to eliminate squeal- this is how I was taught and has stayed with me and probably many other mechanics/techs (I know better now!). As times have gone on brake pad technology has changed and if you consult car and motorcycle brake pad manufacturers they will not advise this practice.
There is a good video on UA-cam by a channel called the workshop where he looked into this 'old' practice and showed that it is outdated and wrong. You don't want the risk of any lubricant anywhere near your brakes. Its better to just remove the pads and clean the pistons,calipers and edges of the pads periodically I do it at least once and year especially after winter.
Thank you! Finally, a video that shows every step! Thanks man!
Thanks for watching glad you found it useful.
thank you for your help
Thanks for watching,glad it was useful.
That's a great vid. Really helpful. Did you do vid for the front brake change at any stage?
I'm looking to do a brake change on both my 2004 VFR 800 & 2010 CB1000ra and
another vid like this for the front would be invalueable.
Thanks
Thanks for watching. I haven't done the front pads yet when I do I will of course film it :)
Cheers dude! Very thorough vid. Same year as mine that one. Gonna have a go at doing my front and back pads tomoz ;)
DosieP Thanks for watching glad it will be of use. Funnily enough I will be doing my fronts in due course
TheSussexBiker Cool. I took it for an Mot yesterday n the guy said it's nearly metal on metal?! Doh! Got 10 days before re-test anyway. Safe ridin from Derbyshire.
DosieP least they didn't go metal on metal. Hope you get them done ok. Ride safe
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to put this together! Will help a lot when I go to do mine soon.
Matthew Hopke Thanks for watching and glad it will be of use
Great Vid. Its easy to see you know what you are doing. My son has a NC30 400 VFR. Couldnt find a vid on that one but I am sure its all about the same as the 800. I have a 2001 VFR800. last model before the Vtec. Still looks brand new and goes very well. Just love the VFR range.
Gary Laaks thanks for the kind comments. I've sold the vfr now but I do miss it and would have another one.
SUPER erklärt. Mach weiter so!!!
very good video with precise instructions.
Fantastic video, really helpful. Thanks for filming.
Thanks for watching :)
great work... fast and perfect... good video
Norbert Baumer Thanks for watching glad you found it useful.
Thanks for the great video!
Just wanted to comment again and say I'm using this video again. Thanks again
Excellent video buddy. Thanks very much for the upload. Will save me a bundle in the near future no doubt. :)
Thanks for watching and glad it will be useful
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to put this up.
Very well explained thanks for that 👍
Glad it was useful and thanks for watching :)
Hello
I used your video to change the pads in my vfr 750 f and after a few days my rear wheel seems a bit stuck and doesnt move freely. What can it be?
Hi i'm sorry you're having troubles, without inspecting the bike personally it is going to be very hard to diagnose the issue, all I can recommend is you double check everything are the pads/shims in correctly does the caliper move freely and is the piston free to move? good luck.
Excellent video
Thanks for the kind comment and for watching.
I have the 04. Vfr 800. Thank you for a great instructional video. Well done. One question. Do you ever put a small amount of grease on the back of each pad ? To help eliminate squeaking noises? Just a perfect tutorial. I'm about to do fronts and rear. All 3. And going back with ebc scinterred hh pads. Cheers
Thanks for watching glad you found it useful. I used to put copper slip on the backs of brake pads,but if they have shims I tend just to put a thin smear on the edge of the pads. I think with the dust that is generated it can be counter productive to have too much copper slip around.
Good video mate but why does nobody believe the first click of a torque wrench? Nice to see you tightening the wheel nuts in a criss-cross pattern.
Can't help it I always end up double checking wheel bolts when I torque them :) . Thanks for watching
Ps been told to check the cush on rear. Don't suppose you have a vid in this?
I don't but this may help en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cush_drive
Cracking videos bud. Keep up the great work. Im learning 👍🏻🤗🤛
After 14,000 miles, on my 2007 VFR800, I am hearing some dragging on the rear brake. I am wondering if it's time to replace the pads. Initial inspection the pads look about like the ones you took off in the video. I know this is a difficult question, but should I expect to be changing out the rear pads at 14,000 miles? The fronts look fine. I am also seeing some grooves on one side of the rear rotor. Should I be concerned?
its hard to give a mileage that they should last. My bike had done around 16000 miles. I would check your pistons are free as well as the sliders. As for the grooves in the disc,depending on how severe they are these could have a detrimental effect on braking/pad life. If it were me and they are not too bad and the disc isn't close to min thickness then I would monitor it. But to be absolutely sure maybe get someone to visually inspect the disc.
Thanks for your reply. I removed the rear caliper this evening and saw the inside pad was worn down and needed to be replaced. That's what was making the noise. I cleaned the pistons, pushed them back and will grease the slider pins with the proper high temp brake caliper grease. I've order a set of pads, once I get them I will install them and be good to go. That one caliper bolt is a bit of a bugger to remove, you need just the right length socket and/or extension. Thanks again for posting the video.
S2kDude36 I don't know why but on a linked system Honda recommend changing all pads at the same time.
Awesome job. Thanks
Great videos man. I disassembled the calipers and rebuilt them, bled them to the nines, but they still stick after applying. Not sure why. Copper slip/grease on all sliding surfaces, K&L rebuild kits used. Any idea why it won't release pressure?
Jordan Karim could be a pads binding or maybe a restriction in the lines?
Great video thanks ...
Where did you get rear number plate as I need one with GB flag
Thanks for watching,it came with the bike but I would have thought any number plate supplier should be able to help
Thanks Man! Very helpfull
Márcio Lima Thanks for watching glad it was useful
Excellent, thank you :-)
nice video. thanks!
Thanks for watching glad you liked it :)
Hi..great video. I had a problem getting the wheel off. So i thought I'd just open up the caliper system. I loosened the 3 nuts on the right hand side(if u are standing behind your bike), the right pad fell out. Putting it back proved a bit tricky as i damage the spring pad. I had to order another one but so far the back wheel is seizing up when i tightened the 3 nuts back. Please can u tell me how tight those should be and if there is a way to loosen the pressure a bit, even if the nuts are tight
Hi sorry to hear of your troubles I'm struggling to work out what you undid the three bolts on the right viewed from the rear include the hydraulic lines?? If you have a bent spring pad that won't be helping. If you search online for a workshop manual this may help you.
TheSussexBiker I couldn't get the back wheel off so thought I'd get at the pads another way. I have ordered.. Pls have a look @this link
www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-72860-72860-VFR800FE-2014-F_17-VFR+800+F.html
Look at fibre 3 or where it says spring pad. That is the part I messed up. When I replace with the new one, if there isn't free rolling on the back wheel, pls do u know if there is a way to make sure the pads don't impede the rolling action? Thaanks for any response at all
Ahh I see. you need to make sure the pistons are free and also the sliders are not sticking, although looking at the link I see yours is a 2014 bike so they should not be too corroded. I think you need to get the new spring pad and remove and reassemble double checking everything as you go. You should be able to rotate the wheel freely and the pads should just be rubbing lightly so something is assembled wrong but without being able to physically inspect it's going to be hard to tell what. Good luck and let me know what you find.
Finally fixed, replaced spring pad . thanks
Samson Akisanya glad you got it sorted now time to ride and enjoy your bike
Very nice
Great Video man--it helped me ! Hey do you know how to replace the rear studs? I broke one!!
Thanks for watching,glad it helped. To replace a rear wheel stud,you are going to need to strip out the rear axle and get the brake disc off from looking at the workshop manual. Search online for a Honda repair repair (they are out their). Good luck :)
@@TheSussexBiker FYI.
I searched
Honda Repair Repair.
All the results were for harley davidson.
Honda's you only fix once...
Why are you double clicking the torque wrench?
Having been a Vehicle Tech for many years and very paranoid about fixings coming loose, I always like to double check what I've torqued up - call it being anal :)
EBC HH all the time
Thanks 👍🏻👌🏻
F Resina Glad you liked it 👍
If you press your slave cylinder in without opening the petcock you will DESTROY YOUR BELLOWS.
i switched off as soon as he started pulling the caliper off the bracket.