Was good to fing you when I did. Just got a ST1300 last fall and like to do my own work..It saves money and I have noone to blame if/when it is wrong. Thanks stud.
This is the best video on brake drag out there. Fantastic and thank you. My brake drag doesn't sound bad and doesn't slow the wheel when I spin it too much but the caliper gets very hot and I don't want to ruin the pads or degrade the fluid.. going to put this video to good use
Thank you. A dealer did my brakes but they were dragging when I got it back. I did them the next time and tried to clean with a spray-on brake cleaner but it didn’t do anything. I took it to the dealer again the next time and they just did another pad slap, hand-waving the issue like the pads just needed to bed in, thus making me think some drag was normal. In 32,000 miles I ended up having to replace my Ninja 250’s front rotor TWICE and I didn’t know why. My third was already showing abnormal wear at that point too. A toothbrush with brake fluid is the trick I was missing. Thanks!
Hi i just got some bikes home from a workshop.. both bikes was like shit.. had to fix my GSX1100 Electric my selve they did not even find the issue.. my ZX9R was in for a cloutch fix so the i could work the gears again brake pads front and back.. and sone small issues.. played and pick up.. got home and saw Oil Fingers all over scratchs.. no work don right and drag like hell on front brake now... 😂 Cloutch not working after 1 hour run all others things i wanted to have fixed not fixed 😂 but they still have my 2.000$😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I will try that tomorrow. I just replaced the brake calipers to another model. I did clean it with brake cleaner around the pistons, however I didn't use any brake fluid to lub the pistons, and it was dragging big time
Fab video. It’s happened to me. I always use brake cleaner to clean the caliper then pump pistons out and scrub pistons. Need to check brake reservoirs ?
Is your fluid discolored? Brake fluid only lasts about two years so replace your fluid when you change your pads or two years whichever occurs first. ua-cam.com/users/shortsjRGKW1uXkh0?feature=share
Hey thanks! I did wind up rebuilding the rear caliper (easy) to completely eliminate my problems with this bike and for good measure and technical content I rebuilt the front as well (not as easy). ua-cam.com/video/XjqgYX7tY6c/v-deo.html Ride Safe & Good Luck!
@@RodRidesWrenches 2 yeas in, back again with this same problem, Last time I had to rebuild the front master cyliner, now I'm going to need to too. God, Indian road conditions are dust are really not a place for bikes with radial brake caliper mounts. There is a guy and UA-cam who sells these brake return pins and swears by it. I love the idea and execution, but the only down side is he only makes them for hayabusas.
I read somewhere that using brake cleaner can actually make the caliper seals swell, causing more drag. Brake fluid is ok, but may damage paint on calipers. I prefer to use a little soapy water (dawn) and a tooth brush, then rinse thoroughly.
I'm sure someone has said this, also sure it is incorrect. The brake clean removes brake fluid and therefore any lubrication properties it has. A light coating of brake fluid, force your pistons into the caliper and then clean as a final step will maintain the brake fluid in the right spot. Ride safe!
Each piston has a fluid seal and a dust seal and the fluid seal obviously has to remain in contact with brake fluid for its entire useful life. It’s the brake cleaner that says to avoid rubber parts… which makes it impossible to clean the pistons without a complete tear down/rebuild where you could isolate them in a parts cleaner. By that point you might as well throw them in an ultrasonic cleaner instead.
Thanks for this video. First time bike owner as of last week and my front week is rubbing and making a horrible sound. Replaced the brake pads and think I have to clean the pistons. Whats in the rocks glass??? lol
This true but it all depends on brake pad material as sintered HH pads sound like yours did first regardless of piston condition. I’ve swapped out new bike pads with 50 miles on them with sintered. And they still skim. Never new about using brake fluid to lube portion of piston exposed outside. So after cleaning with soap and water I’m deff going to try this method. Thanks bud.
Thanks for the feedback & view! New video on Sunday! I did have to rebuild the rear brake because of bad seals and pistons to stop the drag on this bike. Here is step by step for single piece brakes ua-cam.com/video/XjqgYX7tY6c/v-deo.html and this video for two piece brakes ua-cam.com/video/6QUKiY75VpI/v-deo.html
I enjoy your videos, style and information. I have not owned more than two Honda's at a time like you ( I know, i know, what is wrong with you ? :) But, i do remember when i could afford more than 1 bike, but those days are gone, especially since i do not work anymore, i just ride, ( well, when winter is over ) I do admire and learn from your dedication to start and follow through with a job, and your love of Honda Motorcycles, of which, i got my first one in 1971. I will continue to ride, wrench and enjoy your videos until father time catches up with me, or the law, i mean one little prison break, and everyone freaks out ! Just kidding . Lol
Use dawn and water, rinse, dry, then qtips and brake fluid to clean the rest. Wipe clean, apply new brake fluid to clean pistons with a qtip. Press in pistons. This way you avoid brake fluid splatter.
Great question, the cap on the reservoir is off to allow air to escape during the expansion of fluid in the reservoir. Remember that the brake fluid should not exceed the available space in the reservoir, if it does you probably have too much brake fluid in it.
Hello Mo, the brakes locking is usually a result of two things, the pads may indeed be dragging and heating up the pistons and brake fluid but there has to be air in the system or your brake fluid reservoir is overfilled. Most likely air since when that gets heated it expands and pressures the brake fluid. How long has it been since the brake calipers were rebuilt? ua-cam.com/video/6QUKiY75VpI/v-deo.html The other reason is the brake master cylinder and brake lever. I once installed an aftermarket brake lever and it held the brakes on just a little, it heated those brakes up and started to lock them. If you've not already done so, check the operation and lever clearance on the master cylinder. If the plunger on the master is not returning to fully out position or the master is leaking there is a problem. Here is a video on rebuilding the master and bleeding your system. ua-cam.com/video/CdCa6tVqtns/v-deo.html
I just did brake pads and noticed dragging. I'm going to try your suggestion on cleaning and lubing the pistons with brake fluid. And greasing the slide pin. If that doesn't work, it's the excuse for an R1 front end and brakes I've been looking for.
make sure you extend the pistons out to clean them. I wound up rebuilding the brakes, as seen in another video, because the rear pistons were cooked. Let me know how it turn out.
@Rod Rides & Wrenches Thanks for the response. I put them back together and they are still dragging. I'm going to attempt to push them out and clean both sides again. I'm really hoping the pistons don't need rebuilt. Your suggestion of using brake fluid helped me clean a amazing amount of crap out of the calipers.
@Rod Rides & Wrenches I'll check this out. Before I buy parts I'm going to check them again. It's possible I didn't extend them far enough and there is still grit. If after all the cleaning/ lubricating they aren't working I'll change the seals. Thanks for your help 👍
Good information. This is why I always do my own brake work, even on my cars. Everybody is in a hurry to get the job done. When replacing brake pads on the bikes I always extent the pistons as you did here. However I find it hard to get to the back side of the piston with a brush. What I've found works good is to cut the collar or hem off an old tee shirt, then with it soaked with brake fluid, loop it around the piston and work it back and forth. Also on the Hondas with linked braking and the SMC on the left caliper, the short, tightly bent hoses tend to put a little side pressure on the caliper causing a little drag. It's hard to get the front wheel absolutely free from drag on these bikes.
I find the brake fluid does a better job of cleaning the pistons. If your pistons are clean you can use the caliper grease, however IMO the grease will collect and hold the brake dust. I've tried it didn't see a benefit.
What about when u install a completely new caliper assembly. Nice and clean but still drag. Plus my other brand new bike u can still hear noise when pushing around?
Took it apart. Beautiful, clean pistons. No dust or dirt inside. Locking was due to gunked up fluid stuck in the hose. Replaced the hose (and the master cylinder because the last time the brake got stuck it pushed the piston too far out and broke the stopper wedge on the previous master cylinder. Master cylinder came with brake handle so of course, I replaced that too along with the banjo bolt and all. No more sticking but it still catches every turn of the wheel. Finally, I grabbed a sandpaper holder and some sandpaper and filed down the disk brake. Only then did the drag stop. Had a slightly warped disk. Not an ideal solution, I give it that, but it worked fine the last few weeks. Battery lasts much longer now that the drag and vibration are gone (it's electric). Wanted to replace the disk but the shop refused to claiming they can only replace THE ENTIRE BRAKE ASSEMBLY (most of which I just replaced, and part of which is perfectly fine). Close to $300 and what a waste!! The hypocrites who claim they "care about the environment". Screw the shop. Just buy the parts and do everything yourself.
After parking my Ninja 250 for several years with a full tank of E0 and a brand new petcock I found that every drop had made its way through to the engine AND the tank had rusted. Indeed, I now had rusty water bubbles under the paint with rust-clogged pinholes under every one. The bike was always under a cover so I presume the water was condensation. I have a feeling that the E0 would have been stable enough on its own if I didn’t add a whole can of Seafoam, so I think the Seafoam ended up acting like ethanol. Though it was supposed to stabilize for 2 years I figured I had more time since it was E0 (Ethanol-free) but not if the Seafoam was acting like Ethanol. :(
Hi, I have a question. When I assemble my brake caliper it fits nice. But when I start pumping the brakes up, the brake pads start rubbing on the disk. Any tips?
@@erikfriis1443 then you need to extend the pistons and clean them like in the video. Take the caliper off the rotor and pump the brakes until the pistons extend. Remove the pads and clean the pistons really well. Replace the pads and be sure to lubricate the slide pins with brake grease. Good Luck
So THAT's why my brakes drag... Note to self: don't let the main stealer touch my precious brakes ever again. At this point it's been months. The pistons will most likely have to come out so I can get it all, at which point I may as well do the seals too. They're not leaking, but that dust has been there ages and I don't want to chance it.
The good news is... You just need a set of seals and some time. I wound up rebuilding the brakes on this bike because the rear pistons were cooked and bound up again after a few hundred klicks. I replaced as many pistons as I could find but that was overkill, I just needed to rebuild the rear ones. Good content though - Single piece brakes Nissin and most others ua-cam.com/video/XjqgYX7tY6c/v-deo.html Two piece brakes Brembo and Tokico Calipers check here ua-cam.com/video/6QUKiY75VpI/v-deo.html Good Luck!
If cleaning didn't work you may have to rebuild your brakes. On this bike the rear brake kept dragging, disassembly showed me why. If you have two piece calipers reference this video ua-cam.com/video/6QUKiY75VpI/v-deo.html and for single piece calipers ua-cam.com/video/XjqgYX7tY6c/v-deo.html Good Luck!
Hey man just some take it or leave it advice, I’m sure you know break fluid is extremely corrosive… that toothbrush is going to fling little droplets on your paint job just like it does your bathroom mirror
Hello Jeremy i disagree your brakes do not intentionally drag. No manufacturer makes a bike that has dragging brakes, a visit to your local dealer will confirm, I own, have owned many motorcycles, their brakes do not drag without activating the brake system. Dragging brakes do not just wear components, it heats the brake fluid up causing expansion and more drag. Dirty caliper pistons are not alright and your brake calipers should be cleaned regularly. I am not sure where your comment is coming from but i can site others to back me up here. Please clean your brakes and ride safe.
@@RodRidesWrenches Also dragging brakes make your engine work harder and can cause overheating which I have experienced with the Suzuki VStrom DL1050XT.
Never thought of using actual brake fluid to clean the pistons, learnt something new today 👍
i love your way of storytelling, the music makes it very energetic too. keep it up.
Thanks for the feedback and view!
Was good to fing you when I did. Just got a ST1300 last fall and like to do my own work..It saves money and I have noone to blame if/when it is wrong. Thanks stud.
Much appreciated!
This is the best video on brake drag out there. Fantastic and thank you. My brake drag doesn't sound bad and doesn't slow the wheel when I spin it too much but the caliper gets very hot and I don't want to ruin the pads or degrade the fluid.. going to put this video to good use
Thank you. A dealer did my brakes but they were dragging when I got it back. I did them the next time and tried to clean with a spray-on brake cleaner but it didn’t do anything. I took it to the dealer again the next time and they just did another pad slap, hand-waving the issue like the pads just needed to bed in, thus making me think some drag was normal. In 32,000 miles I ended up having to replace my Ninja 250’s front rotor TWICE and I didn’t know why. My third was already showing abnormal wear at that point too. A toothbrush with brake fluid is the trick I was missing. Thanks!
Grad to hear, hope you check out the rest of channel!
@@RodRidesWrenches I subbed immediately. :)
Hi i just got some bikes home from a workshop.. both bikes was like shit.. had to fix my GSX1100 Electric my selve they did not even find the issue.. my ZX9R was in for a cloutch fix so the i could work the gears again brake pads front and back.. and sone small issues.. played and pick up.. got home and saw Oil Fingers all over scratchs.. no work don right and drag like hell on front brake now... 😂 Cloutch not working after 1 hour run all others things i wanted to have fixed not fixed 😂 but they still have my 2.000$😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
This dude is so chill
Outstanding, I like the method of acquiring the brush. 😂
Good video,informative !
Use a boot lace soaked in brake cleaner,when cleaning your brake pistons.
You and Rod Rides are like Batman and Robin for brakes - great tip, many thanks.
I will try that tomorrow. I just replaced the brake calipers to another model. I did clean it with brake cleaner around the pistons, however I didn't use any brake fluid to lub the pistons, and it was dragging big time
Let know how it goes.
Now I know where all my tooth brushes go..
Thanks for the brake job..
The editing is amazing...great video I made that mistake....what landed me watching the vid lol thanks you soo much
Thanks John, editing has been a learn as I go process I appreciate you appreciate! Please feel free to share👍
Fab video. It’s happened to me. I always use brake cleaner to clean the caliper then pump pistons out and scrub pistons. Need to check brake reservoirs ?
Is your fluid discolored? Brake fluid only lasts about two years so replace your fluid when you change your pads or two years whichever occurs first. ua-cam.com/users/shortsjRGKW1uXkh0?feature=share
Great video editing! This Kinda exactly what I'm going through now.
Hey thanks! I did wind up rebuilding the rear caliper (easy) to completely eliminate my problems with this bike and for good measure and technical content I rebuilt the front as well (not as easy). ua-cam.com/video/XjqgYX7tY6c/v-deo.html
Ride Safe & Good Luck!
@@RodRidesWrenches 2 yeas in, back again with this same problem, Last time I had to rebuild the front master cyliner, now I'm going to need to too. God, Indian road conditions are dust are really not a place for bikes with radial brake caliper mounts. There is a guy and UA-cam who sells these brake return pins and swears by it. I love the idea and execution, but the only down side is he only makes them for hayabusas.
I read somewhere that using brake cleaner can actually make the caliper seals swell, causing more drag. Brake fluid is ok, but may damage paint on calipers. I prefer to use a little soapy water (dawn) and a tooth brush, then rinse thoroughly.
I'm sure someone has said this, also sure it is incorrect. The brake clean removes brake fluid and therefore any lubrication properties it has. A light coating of brake fluid, force your pistons into the caliper and then clean as a final step will maintain the brake fluid in the right spot. Ride safe!
Each piston has a fluid seal and a dust seal and the fluid seal obviously has to remain in contact with brake fluid for its entire useful life. It’s the brake cleaner that says to avoid rubber parts… which makes it impossible to clean the pistons without a complete tear down/rebuild where you could isolate them in a parts cleaner. By that point you might as well throw them in an ultrasonic cleaner instead.
Thanks for this video. First time bike owner as of last week and my front week is rubbing and making a horrible sound. Replaced the brake pads and think I have to clean the pistons. Whats in the rocks glass??? lol
Thanks for the view, check out the channel for more!
This true but it all depends on brake pad material as sintered HH pads sound like yours did first regardless of piston condition. I’ve swapped out new bike pads with 50 miles on them with sintered. And they still skim. Never new about using brake fluid to lube portion of piston exposed outside. So after cleaning with soap and water I’m deff going to try this method.
Thanks bud.
Thanks for the feedback & view! New video on Sunday! I did have to rebuild the rear brake because of bad seals and pistons to stop the drag on this bike. Here is step by step for single piece brakes ua-cam.com/video/XjqgYX7tY6c/v-deo.html and this video for two piece brakes ua-cam.com/video/6QUKiY75VpI/v-deo.html
I enjoy your videos, style and information. I have not owned more than two Honda's at a time like you ( I know, i know, what is wrong with you ? :) But, i do remember when i could afford more than 1 bike, but those days are gone, especially since i do not work anymore, i just ride, ( well, when winter is over ) I do admire and learn from your dedication to start and follow through with a job, and your love of Honda Motorcycles, of which, i got my first one in 1971. I will continue to ride, wrench and enjoy your videos until father time catches up with me, or the law, i mean one little prison break, and everyone freaks out ! Just kidding . Lol
Thanks for commenting!
Great video. Did you notice if the little pads were worn more from previous owner using back brakes ?
The left side (linked brake side) showed twice the wear the right did. ua-cam.com/video/3hnr9HZxO7o/v-deo.html
Use dawn and water, rinse, dry, then qtips and brake fluid to clean the rest. Wipe clean, apply new brake fluid to clean pistons with a qtip. Press in pistons. This way you avoid brake fluid splatter.
when you pushed the pistons back in after cleaning is it with the resovoir open or closed ?
Great question, the cap on the reservoir is off to allow air to escape during the expansion of fluid in the reservoir. Remember that the brake fluid should not exceed the available space in the reservoir, if it does you probably have too much brake fluid in it.
@@RodRidesWrenches Doesn't need to go off..Every reservoir have a little breather punch or dot around cap to air escape
Would this be a reason for the brakes locking up?
Hello Mo, the brakes locking is usually a result of two things, the pads may indeed be dragging and heating up the pistons and brake fluid but there has to be air in the system or your brake fluid reservoir is overfilled. Most likely air since when that gets heated it expands and pressures the brake fluid. How long has it been since the brake calipers were rebuilt? ua-cam.com/video/6QUKiY75VpI/v-deo.html The other reason is the brake master cylinder and brake lever. I once installed an aftermarket brake lever and it held the brakes on just a little, it heated those brakes up and started to lock them. If you've not already done so, check the operation and lever clearance on the master cylinder. If the plunger on the master is not returning to fully out position or the master is leaking there is a problem. Here is a video on rebuilding the master and bleeding your system. ua-cam.com/video/CdCa6tVqtns/v-deo.html
I just did brake pads and noticed dragging.
I'm going to try your suggestion on cleaning and lubing the pistons with brake fluid. And greasing the slide pin.
If that doesn't work, it's the excuse for an R1 front end and brakes I've been looking for.
make sure you extend the pistons out to clean them. I wound up rebuilding the brakes, as seen in another video, because the rear pistons were cooked. Let me know how it turn out.
@Rod Rides & Wrenches Thanks for the response.
I put them back together and they are still dragging. I'm going to attempt to push them out and clean both sides again.
I'm really hoping the pistons don't need rebuilt.
Your suggestion of using brake fluid helped me clean a amazing amount of crap out of the calipers.
@@westondifranco9313 If the pistons are out of the caliper you should change the seals ua-cam.com/video/XjqgYX7tY6c/v-deo.html
@Rod Rides & Wrenches I'll check this out.
Before I buy parts I'm going to check them again.
It's possible I didn't extend them far enough and there is still grit.
If after all the cleaning/ lubricating they aren't working I'll change the seals.
Thanks for your help 👍
@Rod Rides & Wrenches After some deep cleaning the front calipers need rebuilt.
Looks like I'll be giving this video a watch.
Thanks for the help.
Good information. This is why I always do my own brake work, even on my cars. Everybody is in a hurry to get the job done.
When replacing brake pads on the bikes I always extent the pistons as you did here. However I find it hard to get to the back side of the piston with a brush. What I've found works good is to cut the collar or hem off an old tee shirt, then with it soaked with brake fluid, loop it around the piston and work it back and forth.
Also on the Hondas with linked braking and the SMC on the left caliper, the short, tightly bent hoses tend to put a little side pressure on the caliper causing a little drag. It's hard to get the front wheel absolutely free from drag on these bikes.
Excellent feedback Thanks!
I love the tshirt tip!
What are your opinions about using calipergrease for pistons versus brake oil?
I find the brake fluid does a better job of cleaning the pistons. If your pistons are clean you can use the caliper grease, however IMO the grease will collect and hold the brake dust. I've tried it didn't see a benefit.
My only issue is, how do you know how much can you push those pistons out?
leave your pads in until they touch. demonstrated here ua-cam.com/video/1Y0gsE8yKeI/v-deo.html
Appreciate, thanks
What about when u install a completely new caliper assembly. Nice and clean but still drag. Plus my other brand new bike u can still hear noise when pushing around?
Did you check if there is too much fluid in??
mine is not as bad as yours but my wheel is not spinning 100% freely so im gonna try this and hope this wil work. thanks in advance
Did it work for you? I'm having the same problem.
Good vid. Entertaining too.
About to clean my FJR1300’s rear caliper. Suscribed.
Thanks for the sub!
put piston lube on the extended pistons and then press them in. Clean excess lube. They make it for a reason.
Excellent video. Straight to the point.
Thanks for the feedback & view!
Very well presented,,,, good humour 👍🇨🇦
Thanks Gary! 😁
Took it apart. Beautiful, clean pistons. No dust or dirt inside. Locking was due to gunked up fluid stuck in the hose. Replaced the hose (and the master cylinder because the last time the brake got stuck it pushed the piston too far out and broke the stopper wedge on the previous master cylinder. Master cylinder came with brake handle so of course, I replaced that too along with the banjo bolt and all. No more sticking but it still catches every turn of the wheel. Finally, I grabbed a sandpaper holder and some sandpaper and filed down the disk brake. Only then did the drag stop. Had a slightly warped disk. Not an ideal solution, I give it that, but it worked fine the last few weeks. Battery lasts much longer now that the drag and vibration are gone (it's electric). Wanted to replace the disk but the shop refused to claiming they can only replace THE ENTIRE BRAKE ASSEMBLY (most of which I just replaced, and part of which is perfectly fine). Close to $300 and what a waste!! The hypocrites who claim they "care about the environment". Screw the shop. Just buy the parts and do everything yourself.
Thanks New Video is out today! ua-cam.com/video/ZboWgG6R9J0/v-deo.html
After parking my Ninja 250 for several years with a full tank of E0 and a brand new petcock I found that every drop had made its way through to the engine AND the tank had rusted. Indeed, I now had rusty water bubbles under the paint with rust-clogged pinholes under every one. The bike was always under a cover so I presume the water was condensation. I have a feeling that the E0 would have been stable enough on its own if I didn’t add a whole can of Seafoam, so I think the Seafoam ended up acting like ethanol. Though it was supposed to stabilize for 2 years I figured I had more time since it was E0 (Ethanol-free) but not if the Seafoam was acting like Ethanol. :(
😂 the toothbrush steel was funny
Dude, sounds like he could work for date line
As long as it wasn't "To Catch a Predator" we should be good... Thanks for the feedback & view!
Hi, I have a question. When I assemble my brake caliper it fits nice. But when I start pumping the brakes up, the brake pads start rubbing on the disk. Any tips?
When you say assembled do you mean you rebuilt the caliper or just replaced the pads?
@@RodRidesWrenches i just replaced the brake pads.
@@erikfriis1443 then you need to extend the pistons and clean them like in the video. Take the caliper off the rotor and pump the brakes until the pistons extend. Remove the pads and clean the pistons really well. Replace the pads and be sure to lubricate the slide pins with brake grease. Good Luck
@@RodRidesWrenches thanks
Just clean with brake cleaner and slight dab of red rubber grease on the pistons, its an easy job.
So THAT's why my brakes drag... Note to self: don't let the main stealer touch my precious brakes ever again.
At this point it's been months. The pistons will most likely have to come out so I can get it all, at which point I may as well do the seals too. They're not leaking, but that dust has been there ages and I don't want to chance it.
The good news is... You just need a set of seals and some time. I wound up rebuilding the brakes on this bike because the rear pistons were cooked and bound up again after a few hundred klicks. I replaced as many pistons as I could find but that was overkill, I just needed to rebuild the rear ones. Good content though - Single piece brakes Nissin and most others ua-cam.com/video/XjqgYX7tY6c/v-deo.html Two piece brakes Brembo and Tokico Calipers check here ua-cam.com/video/6QUKiY75VpI/v-deo.html Good Luck!
I tried this and my brakes drag even more than they did before I started
did. this my self today, but still noise
If cleaning didn't work you may have to rebuild your brakes. On this bike the rear brake kept dragging, disassembly showed me why. If you have two piece calipers reference this video ua-cam.com/video/6QUKiY75VpI/v-deo.html and for single piece calipers ua-cam.com/video/XjqgYX7tY6c/v-deo.html
Good Luck!
Comical and clever, all makes sense
Thanks for the view & feedback! New video out Sunday!
Shit, mines have been dragging the whole season😢😂
Great video
Thanks Shaun, please feel free to share!
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Hey man just some take it or leave it advice, I’m sure you know break fluid is extremely corrosive… that toothbrush is going to fling little droplets on your paint job just like it does your bathroom mirror
That drag sounds fine for the vfr1200
I can assure you now that it is fixed. It is not. Thanks & ride safe.
Some level of drag is normal....the info oresented can be misleading unintentionally.
Hello Jeremy i disagree your brakes do not intentionally drag. No manufacturer makes a bike that has dragging brakes, a visit to your local dealer will confirm, I own, have owned many motorcycles, their brakes do not drag without activating the brake system. Dragging brakes do not just wear components, it heats the brake fluid up causing expansion and more drag. Dirty caliper pistons are not alright and your brake calipers should be cleaned regularly. I am not sure where your comment is coming from but i can site others to back me up here. Please clean your brakes and ride safe.
@@RodRidesWrenches Also dragging brakes make your engine work harder and can cause overheating which I have experienced with the Suzuki VStrom DL1050XT.
@@yellperlapper Good Point! Thanks for the feedback & view. I have anew video out today, I hope you will check it out.