How to Mount TV to Block or Brick 2021
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
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This video is meant to give you one (of many) solutions on how to hang your TV on block or brick. Tapcon screws are a great way to mount ANYTHING to block or brick. If you have never used them before I hope this video helps point you in the right direction! Please share in comments your solution!
Good, simple tips that I wouldn't have thought of myself. Thank you.
Hope it helps!
appricate the lesson, great advice on carrying the mount to the store, this will help to select the size srew and if we need a washer as well
I wish I had the first time! Good luck
The end of the bricks I never would have considered. Perfect tip. Thank you!
Glad it helped...good luck!
Question, if the cinderblocks are completely filled with concrete do I still need to drill the stud of the block or I can drill anywhere?
Drill anywhere! Good luck
@@how2q Thank you, you make awesome videos!
Expandet anchors from Denmark, get them after your tapcon doesn't work out right. Tapcon's are great, but it is imperative that you drill a perfect pilot hole, or your screw will strip the cement. Expandet plastic plugs can go into a larger hole, and then you drill your lag (or same Tapcon) into it. It compacts into the concrete and cannot be pulled out. Again, Tapcon's are great, but be precise.
Nice video and some good tips, but a few points that should be noted:
Going thru the mortar (as opposed to the brick-face as described in the video) has several benefits *PROVIDED* the quality of the mortar lines are LEVEL and mortar is sound (which admittedly can be difficult to tell strictly from the face):
CAVEAT: You would generally not want to go into mortar if you were installing a articulating mount (go thru the brick instead as described in video). Mortar option is mainly for tilt-only mounts) where the tv is always very close to the wall.
1) Going thru mortar allows you to place your anchors very close to the where the brackets attached to the TV will lie horizontally... this is very important with heavy TVs (100lbs+) as you want the weight to transfer from the mount to the wall as fast as possible... otherwise the mount can bend or deform (and it may happen immediately or over time... which means one day your tv can just fall off the mount due to the bent fins). Of course you don’t want the bolts to interfere with tv’s brackets, but you want them as close as possible.
2) If going thru the mortar where you cannot align both the top and bottom on a mortar line, then make sure to align the TOP of the mount with the mortar line (since the top actually does most of the work). Reason is because you can (and should) easily add a third bolt in the middle if the mount for additional strength.
3) Brick (especially red brick) is brittle and is prone to cracking during drill and bolting, which not only causes a safety issue, but permanent damages you wall.
4) It is very hard to hide a hole (or worse, a crack) in brick face (again especially red brick). Mortar is easily repaired and blended if tv (and mount) is ever removed.
Speaking of which, while wedges make for the strongest mount points, they are very hard (to impossible) to remove, Tapcons or lag screws with mortar sleeves are far easier to remove if the tv (and mount) is ever taken down. Also wedges can be tricky to choose if you are unsure of the depth of your wall...they will still work but if the wedge is too long for the wall depth, then you may not have as strong of an attachment as you might think. While the same us true for Tapcons or lags with mortar sleeves, those two use their full length to bind to the wall as opposed to a wedge which primarily uses the wedge at the end to lock into place. Also, if you realize your wall depth is not deep enough before inserting the wedge/tapcon or lag, then switch to toggle bolt since they are designed to go all the way through the wall.
BTW, If you use lag bolts (often included with TV mounts), make sure to use plastic mortar sleeves (which *should be included as well) as the lag screws (even zinc coated ones) will rust over time due to the constant moisture in the concrete walls (wedges and Tapcons are more resistant to this affect).
Still a great video, I am just adding to the discussion. BTW, Feel free to use any of the above in captions on your video to help inform watchers of all their options and the various consequences of mounting choices).
“Pinned” your comment (first comment people will see). Thank you for taking the time to share all the info and advice!
@@how2q No problem! , glad to help !
My wall is drywall over concrete block using furring strips or something similar to attach. I cannot see the actual block so I could be drilling into the end, middle or the mortar. So 5/8 drywall + 1/2” gap and then block. What would you recommend? TV is 55”, 33 lbs. and I’m going with a full spectrum mount almost weighs as much as the TV.
Amazing info!
Would resin "anchors" be good to use with either tapcons or wedge anchors to fill in gaps? I saw a UK masonry channel and he seemed to use regular bolts, made me curious about wedges and other fasteners in conjunction with resin.
Thank you, I spent an hour at Home Depot staring at concrete anchors and drill bits. I could not figure out which to select until I saw your video.
Glad it helped…almost too many options out there!
Thank you for this! I also want to compliment you on your simplicity . you have a very likable approach enough that I subscribed :) What do we call you for those who want to see you regularly? MR. how2q? lol
Haha I demand my wife call me several things...hadn't thought of Mr. How2q...by son came up with that and it stuck. Thank you for watching!
Appreciate it thanks bro
Glad it helped!
People like you make our jobs easier specially for some of us that don't know much. Thank you for the help.
Luis...THANK YOU! Appreciate the compliment!
Great videos! Hoping you could give me some advice....I am mounting a 75" TV that weighs 90 lbs with a 25 lb mount. I have 3/4" drywall over 1/2" wood paneling over cinder brick. fir strips in between layers making it 2" from drywall surface to cinder brick. I'm thinking 3" tapcons would be my best bet after watching both of your videos on this subject. Any tips you could give me?
If there is plaster covered over the cinder block does that matter
No it should not matter. It is obviously tough to tell if you are hitting solid part of block or hollow. Even the hollow part of block is much stronger than drywall. Mark your points and drill. If you do happen to hit a hollow area, you have two options on type of bolt to use...a wedge anchor like a red head OR toggle bolt (toggle bolt will require a slightly larger hole). Hilti also makes a 1/4" drywall toggle that would work
Great video! I live in Arizona too and thinking about installing a tv outside as well. Did you go with a regular tv or purchase one designed for outdoors? Im considering getting an enclosure with a fan for storms and the heat.
Fai le...sorry for delay in responding - i just saw this! I would honestly go with a normal tv if "outdoor" approved costly and get a cover @ amazon. TV's are getting cheaper to replace. The one in the video has been outside & covered for over a year and no issues...here's a link for the one we got amzn.to/2EROBh0
🔥landed🔥
This was very helpful! I'm making my list!
Amy Pittman great...glad it helped and good luck!
every time i try this on my block home, the block disintegrates as I screw in the tapcon screw. any suggestions? (i'm in Az too...)
Possibly start w smaller drill bit. And gradually make hole larger…weird its disintegrating. I have also used a “wedge” anchor between block/brick that works great too
Trying to drill into concrete above a fireplace-using hammer drill and concrete bit...keeps chewing up the drill bit tho
Sometimes you get what you pay for...if you have a "cheapie" concrete drill bit may need a better one. Concrete is at different "hardness" levels. Wish I could be of more help.
That’s great when you can visualize the blocks. Kind of different when the block is behind Sheetrock.
I actually did a video on that:
ua-cam.com/video/vPGi7lGsauA/v-deo.html
if only there tools / method available to scan where is the solid part... because my wall is plastered flat, cannot see the block. 😭
The bad news is, I actually don’t think there is such a tool. Good news is that plaster on block, no matter where you drill into, is a very solid surface to connect to. What I mean by that is drill where you want to drill. If it’s solid, use this method. If it’s not solid, I would use toggle bolts if you happen to hit a hollow area in the block. You’ll know because it will be tough to get through and then obviously give out when you hit the hollowed area. I hope that makes sense. Using a wedge anchor is a another possibility.
Where is the plug? To plug your TV?
Plug was below and to the right of tv. Closer to the ground
No cable (wifi connected). Just lived w cord being visible. Could have run metal conduit to move outlet behind tv but did not.
Do you still use these tapcons when hanging a mount to drywall that has concrete behind it?
Yes i would.
Wish I had a dad or uncle who could show me how to do this stuff, but you're a good sub. :)
I was lucky to have a dad that got me started...thank you for compliment!lol hope it helped
lol no dad
We are getting ready to do this. GREAT VIDEO. Thank you for the wonderful information.
Awesome hope it helped!!
Great video. If you have a cinderblock wall that is already covered up (with drywall) and do not know exactly where the ends of the cinderblock to drill into, are there any tips into finding the stud/solid portion of the cinderblock? Or is it just guess, drill, and hope? thx
I've seen drywall attached directly to block/brick and also with "fir" strips (usually 1x2'). I would mark where you want to drill and drill pilot holes with masonry bit. A bit that is smaller than you plan on using. If you happen to hit the open area or void of block then I would use toggle bolts in those holes (amzn.to/2yStSde)
and tapcons in the others. If you happen to drill between blocks in the "grout" joint then you can consider using a wedge type anchor, here's an example: amzn.to/2MszH4p. Not a perfect answer but hope it helps
@B Homes I would consider same approach. I think you would still need a wedge anchor even if you hit cavity. If I remember right there is probably a 3/4" to 1 inch of brick before you reach cavity. Perfect situation is putting anchor between bricks either vertically or horizontally if that makes sense.
You can always start with a pilot hole. If you don't hit cavity then go with tapcon. Hope that helps...sorry for the "it depends" answer
B Homes thx...agree on the tapcons. Either way it’s a good choice. Happy 4th
Are you ever going to make any new content? Asking for a friend.
haha...Yes...been a little busy.
Do you recommend tapcon screws or anchors to mount pull up racks in a gym?
I would go w anchors.
Sorry not block Accrington brick 😢😢😢. Guys in my area hate drilling Accy Brick, in Lancashire, England. I actually can’t tell you how many drill bits I actually used too fix an out door light. A chap was doing some regrouping on the outside. Just a small area. He went through about 6 diamond edge cutting wheels. That’s why I asked about Accy Brick. Soz, picked the wrong channel. Good luck with your UA-cam channel. God Bless 🙏❤️🇬🇧
Great channel, great videos!! So helpful with ypur other video on the ford vent door problem. Gearing up for the summer as I too live in Phoenix.
The rest of the story....my wife can't drive a stick so it went up on the block. Neighbor bought it and I believe he is 8K into and I'm pretty (actually really) jealous. The 97 manual ranger is tough to beat. Thanks for watching!
Excellent tutorial! Thanks so much for the practical tips
Glad it helped!
What if your concrete wall is textured? We just bought a house they extended the house and the add on is now my living room. I can’t tell where the corners are due to it being textured.
Lourdes...thank you for watching! You can't go wrong is the good news. I would drill your holes where you want them to go. The rest of the answer is "it depends". If you happen to drill into solid brick you will know...the bit will not "give" meaning it is SOLID. If you start drilling and it "gives" or pushes through so to speak then you have done one of two things....drilled between block or brick or you have drilled through face of block/brick and into the open cavity. If you are between bricks I would use a wedge anchor and if you go into a cavity then use a toggle bolt. This hopefully gives you options with your project. Here are links to what I'm talking about (as an example)...
amzn.to/3a87RHG Wedge anchor
amzn.to/3qRAheG toggle bolts
Let me know how it goes!
@@how2q This is very helpful - I'm in a similar situation and doing some research. It is a cinder block wall in my living room. There is a closet that where I can see the back of the blocks, but the front/living room side is covered in bead board. I can measure based on what I can see, but its great to have a backup plan. Thanks for the video and thanks for answering all the follow up questions.
@@kamalaksi9055 oh man, measure 4x then drill once!lol I have used wedge anchors when placing anchor points between blocks.
I appreciate it 👍
i was thinking of buying a spirit level. A spirit level app, why didn't i think that would exist? Thanks for that tip!
Great video.. What is the name of the level app on your phone please
It is preinstalled on all iPhones.
Thanks, super informative.
Awesome...glad it helped!
3 years later your video is still handy 😂 thanks dude
Haha glad it helped
Hey buddy great video! Right to the point without the corny jokes. 👍🏾
Hi, i mounted a 50 inch on the back side of my home, back patio wall today (stucco and concrete) used concrete screws and anchor. I angled them slightly upwards since i did some research and saw people advising this. Was this a good move or should i have screwed everything in straight at a 90 degree angle to the wall?
Is this keeping you up at night? Actually not kidding sometimes if i think i have “issues” i wake up thinking about them. You are fine. As long as you feel like you have solid contact then your ok. Most Stucco is attached to Styrofoam/“chicken wire” on top of half inch plywood. This of course depends on which area the country you’re in. You would know if it was Styrofoam and plywood when you drilled in.
When locating the end parts of the blocks, how would you locate where to drill if the walls are flushed and no lines/indents aren’t present?
If your mount is like mine, there are several holes you can used to secure 4 corners of mount. I would drill pilot holes to make sure you are going into solid brick. Also realize that if you have drywall over block, any hole will probably be much more sturdy than if it was just drywall. Not knowing your setup it is hard to give you right advice.
I have drywall over block wall. Should I drill into it and not worry too much about hitting the edge of the block? Since it’ll be much better than drilling into the drywall alone… or is hitting the edge of block extremely important?
@@jagdeepgill8623 You should be fine if you don't drill the edge of brick. Put 6 screws instead of 4 to make it stronger. Drilling/screwing the edge of brick just makes it stronger but as long as you catch at least 1/2 of brick you are fine.
I need to mount a TV to a brick wall (fireplace mantel). It is a round crescent corner fireplace...so I think I need to mount two 2x4s (or some hard wood) vertically to use as shims and to mitigate the crescent curve, as I then would mount the TV bracket to the two vertical wood ‘shims’. Then I would mount the TV bracket to the wood. The brinks are called Clinker Bricks and they have 2-3 small hollows inside each brick (unseen from the side). I could perhaps use three concrete screws through each piece of wood so it should be a solid set up, then I would mount the TV bracket to the wood, to the bricks. My primary question is, should I put the concrete screws into the mortar between the bricks or drill directly into the bricks? Also if you have any other tips or suggestions, I would welcome all.
I would drill directly into bricks. If you do decide to go into mortar, us a wedge type anchor like redhead anchor. I'm not sure you would need the wood. Without eyes on what your looking at, I'm just guessing the flat metal on brick would be like the flat wood on brick.
I put my tv up on concrete wall.
Didn't use blue tapcon screws.
Just normal little shiny screws
Probably 1/8 .
I came home one night after a walk
My tv was on the floor in pieces.
Listen to Norm MacDonald here !
HAHA...well, now we can chuckle about it right. I don't know how many times I've removed a tv on drywall to find it was secured completely wrong but somehow defied the laws of gravity and never fell. Sorry that happed to you! Thank you for sharing...
Great video! Thanks!
Hope it helps!
I want to wall mount a TV. The wall is block or concrete covered by sheet rock. I'm concerned if it's block and I hit a shallow section the tapcon screws won't hold. Fortunately it's a small and light TV. Any suggestions?
I would suggest drilling a small pilot hole to find out what you are dealing with. I say that because if you have drywall on block, i have seen drywall attached directly to block or drywall attached to fir strip (1/2 wood strip) that is attached to block. Realize that drywall/block combo is much more solid than just drywall (which you can attach a tv mount to hollow drywall with right hardware). If you find that you are drilling into the hollow part of block i would use a toggle bolt (hillman makes one I've used). I have also used red head sleeve anchors as an option to tapcons if you find yourself drilling into solid block. Long reply but hope it's helpful.
Thank you for this great video. Nothing changes about ALL of the advice you gave if there is plaster covering the brick, right?
Nope…if you happen to hit mortar between bricks you can away use a wedge anchor.
well done...I have used red heads with sleeve an anchor...works great too
Wow, never saw this comment...sorry for delay. That is what I used the first time I mounted a tv to block wall. Another great option
Best “how to” video I have seen yet! Thank you
Haha love it when friends find me!lol
When using tap cons after drilling the hole and screwing in the screw go slow when you tighten otherwise you can strip the tap con in the holding strength if you go fast
Great advice…been there done that
I just tried drilling 4 holes for a small tv, omg the 5.5mm holes turned into 30mm holes 😂🤣. Damm!!! Itt!!!!
Happens to the best of us. A good “hack” is use small wire in hole to allow bolt to grip. Should hold really well. UA-cam it🤓! Of course 25 mm is a lot to make up for...
Thank you ....you explained the steps very easy why can't more guy's do this they all try to sound professional but we are just average Joe's lol
definitely average joe!lol thanks for watching hope it helps
Perfect! You validated my cinder block issue! Appreciate your tips and no bs commentary! Time to get drillin!
Haha i’ve learned bs doesnt fly on youtube!🤣 glad it helped
Is it safe to install a 75” TV using motion mount on a brick wall?
Sorry for delay in responding. People hang 75" tv's on swivel mounts to drywall all the time. I would definitely do it as long is swivel is made for 75"
how2q Thanks for the reply. My question is that if it is safe to Install it on BRICKS?
G Deit Thank you
Great video but how do you know where the end of the block is if it's covered with drywall in the living room?
With drywall on concrete you can’t go wrong. You can hang a tv on just drywall with the right anchor. I would use a small concrete drill bit and drill pilot hole. This will help figure out if your in solid block, hollow part of block, or between blocks. Between blocks use a wedge anchor. If you hit hollow area you could use a snap toggle. Hard to describe via “text” but hole that helps
How big was the tv that you put on your wall? Any suggestions for a light tv? Thanks! Great job!
I believe it was a 47” tv. If you are looking for light tv’s just stay away from 4k...they are heavier. Besides the obvious of newer smaller for light tv’s i don’t have a specific model to recommend. If your putting one on a masonry (block/brick) weight really shouldn’t be a factor.
Question: I need to install a wall mount on the larger block. My TV is 65 inches and might be a little heavy. Is there some restrictions on weight, do I need different screws and bolts. I just want my TV to be secure . Your channel proves that I can install on cinder block. I need to know where to drill also since I'm drilling on the larger block.
The two options I have used is "redhead" anchor bolts and tapcons. The 4k 65 inch tv's are heavier BUT either of these will work. Just make sure you are drilling into the solid part (end) of the block and not the hollow area. If you used larger redheads, i have anchored these between the blocks before and worked fine. Good luck
@@how2q This is why I subscribed to your channel. Thanks you for the information. Your awesome
I see other experts that, in addition to ShopVac-ing the dust out of the mounting holes, squit "sealant" into the hole before the tapcon bolt goes in. Why? Necessary? Thoughts?
Sealant is probably overkill (in my opinion) but I'm sure it would make a stronger bond. I have had no issues with using tapcons without sealant.
@@how2q Thanks, Boss. That's the route I'll take, then. Appreciate the 4-1-1.
Awesome video!
Thanks for the tip mate.
You are welcome hope it helps!
What do I do IF I went through the hollow part of the cinder block?
I would use a toggle bolt. Downside is might have to drill a slightly larger hole to fit the "toggle" through hole. Here is one option: amzn.to/3v5resG
What brand mount is that... it is exactly what I am looking for... Thanks
Thanks for watching walt. It is from monoprice. They have three options depending on size of your tv. Check in description for the video and i have links to the tv mount
My house has stucco over concrete blocks. How to you find the thick concrete rather than the hollow centers?
Unfortunately that's tough to do. The good news is that drilling into block, whether "hollow" part or solid...it will provide a solid connection. If you think of it block is much stronger than drywall. Mark your points and drill. If you do happen to hit a hollow area you have two options on type of bolt to use...a wedge anchor like a red head OR toggle bolt (toggle bolt will require a slightly larger hole). Hilti also makes a 1/4" drywall toggle that would work. Hope this helps
@@how2q thanks for your quick reply.
BIG like to you for this simple video!
Ha...thx...job is easy with right tools.
I will be using your method tomorrow. Thanks.
Good luck with your project!
What size washers did you use?
I believe i used 1/4”...I recommend you take your mount with you when grabbing hardware. Ace or true value I think is the best option doing this.
Can I use Tapcon fasteners on (rounded) rock fireplace or will the rock break?
Just pre-drill smaller hole than screw and it should't brake. Try first in a not very visible rock like the bottom.
Great advice let us know how it goes!
very useful video, frist time that I'll mount a tv
I hope this video makes your project that much easier! Good luck...probably easier than u think!
Thank you!
One day I’ll have an outdoor tv. One day.
Lol…find a cheapie and stick it outside…they will last longer than u think
Excellent informative video! Thank you =D
Glad it helped!
can you drill into foundation on a 60yo house
You should be ok. Post tensioning started in 50’s. A stamp in garage Can often tell you if its post tension or not. Also, you can look around foundation for 1-3 inch circular “patches” 2-4 ft apart that would indicate post tension
@@how2q alright thanks for the help
Great video! Exactly what I was looking for. Great tips!
Glad it helped...good luck on your project!
Good vid‼ To hide the wires do I need to cut out the brick for the outlet behind the TV?
Joe sorry for late reply. I would run electrical from inside to a point right behind your tv. In this case, i have drilled from inside out if you have it measure correctly. Pretty involved electrical...good luck!
@@how2q That's ok Thanks!....could I pull the power from a light switch that's in that same bay?
@@joemcfarland4121 yes..that's what I would do. If you have wired outlets before it shouldn't be a problem.
@@how2q Yes, ok Thanks‼
its all good BUT I have drywall over the block so how would I find where to drill...you show a bare wall of concrete....I need your help and its indoors we bought a 55 inch and want to attach it to the wall
Typically, drywall is attached to block with 1x2 strips (furring strips) 16" on center (sometimes 24"). I would first attempt to locate those and drill holes through those. I would still use tapcons (or red head's are another option). Between drywall, furring strip, and concrete you should have a solid setup. Good luck..let me know how it goes.
@@how2q so what you are saying is there is wood strips behind the drywall to the blocks so can I use a stud finder to locate them or a strong magnet to find the screws
Ultimate Face Painting start w stud finder and then try magnet. I have plaster directly on block AND furring strips in a different area connecting drywall to block.
The saying goes seek and you will find. I have the very same setup where my tv is to be mounted and I’ve been wondering what to do looking all over UA-cam through different videos and no one talks about this. It’s not a stud it’s just drywall then 1 x 2 then cinder block. Thank goodness I found this video and question because even asking on the other videos they won’t understand and you would think many homes have this same setup on a side of the living room wall where you may want to hang a tv.
@@cutactiontake9im in the same boat. Cinderblock with furring then drywall. I'm just probably going to cut open the drywall, mount 3/4 plywood then put the drywall back on.
Thanks buddy this was very helpful
Good luck...glad it helped
I’ve watched a few videos on this and this one is the best I’ve seen. Thank you!
Glad helped!!
Great tutorial, sir. Love the tape idea. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Great video bud. What model no drill is that?
They have discontinued my Makita XPH01... Updated version I found is XPH12Z. Here's a link amzn.to/2l5Hpah. It's great for DIY in all modes (impact/hammer/drill) around the house. If you are doing PRO stuff I would get a pure hammer drill.
Thanks
Hope it helps!
Awesome
Thank you..hope it helps with your project!
good stuff...thank you
I completely understand your logic for drilling at the end of the blocks. So is it fair to assume to drill in the middle of red bricks as it has the most amount of surrounding mass for the screw to anchor into?
Thank you
Hate to say but...it depends...i would drill a pilot hole to see if it is solid where you intend to drill. Some red bricks do have smaller hollow areas. Hope that helps.
@@how2q Great point, thanks again. Gonna subscribe. Have a great day!
Great video... Up until you begged viewers to like and subscribe.
Thx...if you had a channel you would understand. I guess i should qualify that statement. I used to NOT mention subscribing...guess what, no subscribers. When marketing yourself, like it or not, you need to request action from viewers. Most don’t, like yourself. Other viewers will subscribe...either way i appreciate the view and consideration.