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I install security cameras. I tend to use my cordless Bosch hammer drill when I'm only doing 1 or 2 small holes, but I use the Bauer 13 amp rotary hammer from Harbor Freight for anything more (or when I need to drill through more than a couple inches of concrete/brick). I think I got it for around $80, plus another $15-20 for the 16" bits. It's pretty wobbly and not built to the same standard as the more reputable brands, but it works and it hasn't failed me once. Something you didn't mention but is pretty important is cooling. The cordless hammer drills work at much higher RPM and hammer frequency, and combined with the smaller bits this can quickly cause overheating which can ruin a brand new masonry bit. To combat this, I use a small spray bottle of water and continuously spray the bit and the area around it as I'm drilling. Every 5 seconds or so I back the drill out and spray the bit directly and spray into the hole. This ensures the bit never gets too hot, and as a bonus it also greatly reduces the amount of dust produced (though you should still wear a mask-silicosis is no joke). Also, if you're drilling all the way through to run wires, make sure to always drill towards the unexposed side of the wall. When you break through the other side there is a good chance that the area around the hole will spall, leaving a rather ugly looking exit hole. If you're feeling lucky you can drill halfway through on one side and then finish it on the other, but this is very difficult to get right and if you're off by even a little it can cause the brick to fracture through it's entire cross-section.
As a retired mason, I loved plumbers and electricians drilling into bricks. The brick would crack and I would get paid to replace them!😀 Hilti invented tapcons back in the 80s. Before they came around we used Rawl caulkins made of lead and zinc.
We live in a historic neighborhood with lots of old brick (which I understand is softer) and the explicit requirement for any exterior fastened thing is to drill and fasten to the mortar, because 1) AIUI repointing would be a ton cheaper than replacing a cracked brick, and 2) breaching the outer surface of the brick is just asking for weather to do a number to the whole wall.
I just did a project adding pony walls to enclose my back porch. I used tapcons to attach framing to brick and it worked great. I did follow the recommended bit size, and I'm glad you pointed that out.
I wasted so much time and effort trying to use my standard drill. $90 bucks at harbor freight for the rotary hammer drill and it was an absolute game changer. Definitely recommend to anyone drilling into block or into your concrete slabs!
Here's my two cents. I've got a little experience installing into all sorts of masonry and concrete from when I used to work in a factory installing large, specialized refrigeration equipment for bars and restaurants. 6:06 -- 1) Some masonry drill bits require a steady stream of water to cool the bit and flush out the swarf. You can do this most easily by taking a common, disposable plastic water bottle, filling it, then puncturing a tiny hole a half inch above the bottle's base. Now your partner can squeeze a stream of clean water onto the bit and hole while you work the drill. 2) Sometimes masonry drill bits require you to start the drilling at a 45 degree angle to the work, then quickly rotate perpendicular to the work and continue drilling normally. This is typically done with smaller, more fragile masonry bits. 9:39 -- 1) Regarding anchoring into concrete, that is a whole 'nother world... a world dominated by Redhead brand concrete anchors. Always, always, ALWAYS drill holes deeper than you need to so you can hammer the Redheads flush with the concrete to hide them should you not need the anchors anymore. Otherwise you'll have to grind all the anchor studs flush... a huge pain. 2) The other major way to anchor into concrete is with Ramsets or similar powder actuated devices. Very efficient way to pin the bottom plate of a house wall to a concrete foundation, for example. 3) God help you if you hit rebar, as it could seriously injure you at worst or severely complicate your project at best. A video I'd like to see is installing into stucco house siding. Seems terrifying but likely isn't too hard. Something like attaching a fence to stucco.
@@roberttrimmier3276- There is probably a way to determine where the rebar is but that is beyond me. An experienced construction manager might know. If you're pouring cement and laying rebar for your own project, you might have enough control over the project to mark where the rebar is being laid for future reference. I imagine you would immediately mark the X- and Y-axises of the rebar, let the cement set, then transfer your marks to the concrete somehow. Then you could hypothetically plan around those temporary marks where to sink your Redhead or similar concrete fasteners such that they avoid the rebar.
I was really afraid I’d screw this up even after watching several other videos of how to do this correctly - you gave me the confidence to drill into my brick house and porch columns to put up a screen porch! Thank you. ❤
This video was posted at 6p ET and a few hours before your comment, so you saw this and then immediately put up a screen porch at the end of the day? Ok 🙄
@@mattrightmire8054 Fair enough, but the implication from that statement, I believe, would typically lead most people to conclude she not only gained the confidence but gained it and then went out and did it. I don't know, just odd to me. Maybe I'm the only one, haha
I really hope you're married and if so, your husband is a lucky man. If not, "eligible men line up single file!!! I'm married but jeez lueeze you are quite the catch😘
For the few times I have drilled into the wall to mount a camera or motion light I've always chosen to drill into the mortar and not the brick. I figure if the brick face gets chipped or cracked it would be a mess whereas if the mortar fell out or got ruined or I made a mistake drilling I could repair the mortar. Thanks for making another informative video.
And in your case (lightweight camera), you were right to do so. But if you were aiming for something heavier, that gets lots of forces applied to it every day (pulling away from the wall, and also weigh a lot), like a 100ft hose with a reel, I would go into the brick, because it's stronger.
@@shane250 if the mortar is fragile and you're using plugs, you can make so the plugs expand in the direction of the bricks, essentially sandwiching it between the two solid bricks. My hose reel is still holding fine after 4 years, and I remove it before every winter. I drilled into the mortar except one screw (as it was impossible to line up all four screwholes on the reel with the mortar) and used plugs, although the mortar was still in good shape so there was no need to set the plugs in a certain direction.
That's a really great demo, Scott. Thank you! 2 things I would add, one from experience and one from inexperience: Along with instructing not to over-tighten and thereby strip the hole, I should mention how the hole needs to be deeper than the screw (bc I've seen people neglect this and have a really tough time getting the screw all the way in) and along that vein, it's really much smarter to drive the Tapcon screws with a quarter inch magnetic nut driver, and NOT the flat head screw driver slot! 😱 Ugh. It really is basic DIY, but if you're just getting started with power tools, using and knowing to use something as straight forward as a nut driver is not already a given and that silly slot on the end of a Tapcon could have a newbie risking a slip that could put a screw driver through a finger! 😵🤕 I had a window treatment designer trying to do just this method with both problems before I explained to her what she could do better. Second thought: I used a Milwaukee M12 Hammer Drill combo to install window treatments in concrete and brick for nearly 2 years around the Chicago area (anything downtown is SO likely to be concrete...🙄 I guess they're afraid of fire for some reason 😂). Mainly bc it was the smallest and lightest hammer drill the guy who trained me could find (in our kind of work, weight matters a good deal) and I just followed along. Just recently, I went solo and had decided (like you said) an SDS+ bit with a Hammer Drill like you used would be worth the additional weight, and expense. But, I admit to making a very rookie mistake of my own on my first use of my awesome new Dewalt SDS+ Hammer Drill: Since on drill Combo unit you rotate the selector chuck from drill to hammer to get the impact you need for "hammer drilling" and the icon is a hammer 🔨, I was a little unclear what to use on the new model that had 2 icons, a hammer 🔨, and a drill... I've still only used it a couple times and was and am REALLY pleased with how well it worked...But, I think I need to go back and read the manual a little more carefully, as I'm pretty sure I've just dulled my expensive new bit by using the hammer setting and making holes by literally HAMMERING a bit straight into concrete instead of hammer-DRILLING (WITH rotation)! 🤦🏻😭😄 Am I right? The Hammer 🔨 icon on the Combo drill is correct for THAT device, but on an SDS+ drill the same icon means No Rotation, specifically for bits that chisel! 👷🏻 It's okay...I'm a professional. 😅 My wife got me a tee-shirt that says on it, "This is not a drill." Underneath it is a picture of a screwdriver.
Great video!! With electric work, im usually using tapcons to mount emt or pvc or light fixtures. They basically work great for me. Ive always stripped out the mortar, one tip i sometimes use is to start the tapcons with my impact and then finish tightening by hand with my 10-in1.
I have used both Tapcon screws and inserts with screws and I like them equally. I have never drilled into the brick as I am always afraid that I will crack it and then have a mess to deal with. I usually just use my DeWalt standard battery drill for the holes and I have a HF Hammer drill that I use when drilling into concrete. Great video, as usual!!
Most homeowners are going to have a hard time justifying an SDS hammer drill, though renting one is a good option. I’ve drilled dozens of holes into concrete and brick with my standard Makita and Ryobi hammer Drills and they work just fine as long as the bits are of good quality and are still sharp.
I have used tapcons for years with great success. Finish tightening the tapcons by hand to prevent stripping. If you are careful you can even remove and replace them in the same hole successfully. In my opinion always use the mortar joint as you can repair it if you elect to remove whatever you have attached.
What a great alternative to tapcon. I’ve found that brick varies quite a bit. Just use the right size and style of bit and the right drill then the job will go smoothly. Looking forward to the next video on concrete anchors!
I used blue Tapcon 1/4" screws to mount 2x2s to a brick wall that was originally an outside wall in a room that is an add-on. That was done to put up wood grain panels for a home office to make it more presentable for computer repair customers. I used 2x2s so as not to lose too much space. I only drilled into bricks, not mortar. I bought a corded electric hammer drill which can also do normal drilling. This was back in 1997 and, while drilling the holes in brick took a while, I didn't have any problems with holes stripping and such, but I did go through a lot of bits. I drilled the higher holes on a 6' ladder without issue, though it was more work leaning forward, but that did help with pressure. I pre-drilled the 2x2s with holes for the screws to go through and drilled a wider depth on the paneling side for the screw heads to seat on so the outside was flat. I also ran Romex from an added breaker in the breaker panel, through the attic and down into the room for light switches, 4-foot fluorescent lights and lots of outlets. Of course, that was before the paneling went up, but I knew where the Romex was. I didn't know about 2x4 Romex/Wiring Guards back then or I would have used them. That one room has its own breaker now.
Bro this is the longest video for drilling two screws! But thanking you for all you have shared, learned so much on best drill, bits and screw options. Thank you and Subscribed to your channel.
I like the tip about using a punch to prepare the hole for drilling, it should help prevent drill tip wander! I've not come across "tap con" in the UK. Rawlplugs have been around for at least 40 years, maybe longer. I always install into the mortar. Looking at the side of my neighbours house, they had ( old tech) broadband installed a decade or so ago...the installer made a real pig's ear of it, drilling through the brick with God knows what drill bit , resulting in the brick spalling off in big chunks at the cable entry points.
Good video, you're brought up a lot of good points. To be quite honest with you with the blue screws. I go two size smaller than they recommend, for the drill bit size & then I just mutilate one of the blue screws throw it away. Grab another perfectly new blue screw; and try to follow the thread pattern of the previous one that I just cranked in with my hand. Another words I use a socket set to hand turn it. (But at the end of the day, I agree with you the other method is better to use the plugs.) That was a great suggestion you used --- to use the screw and then lightly push them in flush with a 🔨 hammer.
This is an excellent video. Side note; The foundation of my house is some sort of concrete that has small rocks/pebbles in it. The pebbles tend to be much harder than the concrete so if drilling a hole and hitting one of them its almost better to start another hole elsewhere if possible.
Interesting. It’s been years since I had occasion to do this. Back then I found the bricks from different manufacturers varied wildly in hardness and time to drill. I also used lead-zinc lag shields as the plug component.
One point I'd like to make: at about 5:57, you advise unscrewing the chuck, a quarter turn or so, to "lock" the bit in place. This was discredited a few months ago on AvE's channel here: ua-cam.com/video/8ztB1C7dERc/v-deo.html What you're actually doing is _disengaging_ the ratchet which keeps the chuck locked in place, leaving only the screw tension to hold the bit.
If only this video was around when we did our own screened-in porch extension. I remember countless trips to the big box store and bits and hammer rotary drill, rentals, UA-cam videos, etc. We used Tapcon for securing the ledger board to brick. I recalled the package came with a temporary use masonry bit. Didn't have the time or experience to mess around so Tapcon it was.
Good review. I have used tapcon and have never had a problem, and they are great where strength is required. However, with brick walls (where the object being installed will not result in strong pull out force, just shear force) I use wall anchors. That way I can have one masonry bit with the appropriate anchors in my kit, and use whatever screw is supplied or available. Also I don't use a hammer drill on brick, that way I don't crack anything and because the hammer drill is not part of my standard kit in my truck. I only use a hammer drill a few time a year.
I haven’t had the opportunity to do this with brick, but I have had a couple of experiences using Tapcons with concrete block, and did not have any trouble. As far as over torking, I just had a feeling that I should avoid it snd didn’t. I work at a hardware store that sells fasteners in bulk through Hillman. The TapCons come with the correct masonry bit in the box, and when we empty the boxes into the bulk bins we let the bit go into the bins with the tapcons so any purchaser can take it along with them if they need it. Maybe other stores do this as well.
Good job. Wall plugs are great. I've even used large zip ties and redheads. Especially for mounting things. Nailing 2x material Gripcons 3/16" are a go too for Door bucks etc... what until you drill into Porcelain wall tile. PITA! They make a 5/32" SDS that does a good job for pilot holes in hard material. I'm a retired carpenter. I miss the challenge...lol? The new screw designs are awesome. You have a practical channel 👍
I put up a flag pole and put tap con screws in mortar. The pole did not stay up long. Then I put the tap con screws in the brick and it has stayed in place.
For us DIYers, there is another option - 1/4" impact driver with masonry impact bits. These work substantially better than a regular cordless drill with hammer function, in fact, they're nearly as good as an SDS for small holes for tapcons or small anchors like this. If you do any mechanical work or run a lot of deck screws, you probably already have an impact, and just need the bit. Try it out, it works great. I'll never use a regular drill driver with the hammer function again.
My sds drill is one of the best investments I ever made. I was trying to drill a 5/8 hole 5 inches deep with a normal hammer drill. An hour later I barely hit depth. Bought my SDS and did a 9/16 hole 5 inches deep in about a minute. There's no going back. As far as Tapcons they are always hit or miss. Sometimes they bite and sometimes they don't. When they slip I put a broken zip tie in the hole and then try again. They usually catch. I like your hollow wall anchor method better. I think I might go that route in the future. Thx
I have had good results with Tapcon, anchoring into very old, soft brick. For me, a huge benefit is the hex head option because I always seem to strip out screw heads. I can a ratchet with those. But I realized that over torquing with those - especially in soft brick - would be problematic.
Great video. I do not like or use tapcons. I have used regular plastic anchors for many years. You won't pull them out. I have not tried those screws you are using but it looks like a great choice. Always enjoy your videos!!
With Tapcons it is very important to clean out the hole after you drill using a shop vac. Not doing this can keep it from going in all the way or worse, snap the head off leaving the shank in the hole.
Tapcon also color-codes the screws and drill bits, red goes with red and green with green. If you buy the larger packages an appropriate bit is included. Also, the back of the screw package tells you what size nut-driver is required if it is hex head.
Rotating the drill chuck the other direction is a myth, you should hear the sound twice when locking and that's just that, moving backwards unlocks one level of the lock mechanism. I can search for the videos or patents that prove it :D
This is very helpful. I have been wondering about best practices for brick and block stone houses, for years. I have been using Tapcons, drilling into mortar, just as explained, and I have also stripped holes out while tightening Tapcons. Thank you very much for this little-discussed topic.
Love Tapcons (and similar masonry screws). They are finicky though. Need to drill deeper than the screw, and they are sensitive to drill size. I've found some 5/16 are too tight, some too loose, once you get a good one they go in great and have stupid holding force in concrete.
My experience with Tapcons is mixed. When using them in mortar or even cinder or concrete blocks, they work fine because the material is soft enough but not too soft to provide a good hold. When it comes to brick however, that's a different story. Depending on the brick, like the ones in this video, they are real hard and not forgiving so Tapcons easily snap. I am installing a composite deck which is partly over the top of a brick/block wall so I have had to secure the boards to both and anywhere I have had to attach to brick it has been problematic - so I am looking for an alternative. My biggest concern is I need something that will not loosen over time from being walked on. I might give the plastic anchors a try with standard deck screws and see how that works out. At least I have some options now.
The main issue I’ve had with drilling brick is not using a sharp bit. Depending on the type of concrete or rock, they can wear pretty quickly. There is a reason they are sold in packages of 5 or 10 of the same size. For anchoring where there will be repeated stress like a handrail, I fave the expansion bolts, which are a bolt with a tapered nut and a sleeve which gets pressed into the masonry. I also prefer several small anchors to distribute the load rather than a single large anchor.
i like the plastic plugs for anything hanging verticle. tapcons for anything attached to a floor. theres also "red heads". those have great holding strength. kinda pricey but very effective. its a basically a bolt with a threaded reciever that you insert in hole then tap with a punch then thread your bolt in.
Another good video. I can recall the first time I used a rotary hammer - I was shocked at how easily the bits went into concrete. However, for smaller holes, or when drilling into the sandstone sheathing of my house, I just use hammer drill, even though I have a cordless rotary hammer. I do like to put anchors into the mortar if I can, because it's easier to repair if I want to remove the anchor. If the bricks are soft, mortar can actually be better - in one house we had a patio and steps with very soft bricks, which sometimes cracked even when drilling into the middle of them - but for well-fired bricks, I agree they are preferable. Also, in bricks or stone, I prefer using Rawl plugs to Tapcon, because I'd cracked them with Tapcon, and I feel you get more control with an insert and a screw. Just be sure to blow all the dust out of the hole before inserting. I have had some bad luck with no-name wall anchors, though most of them are fine, so now I just stick with name-brands like Rawl and Fischer. (Sort of like Wago vs random Chinese stuff, although not as risky).
I just want to hang my house numbers. I glued them to a piece of flooring tile (12x24) and now need to attach the tile to the house. In the past I've had brick which was nice and regular like yours. For normal bricks with normal mortar they make spring loaded hangers which grab the bricks inside the mortar joint. They worked perfectly. On this new house, my bricks, for all intents and purposes, are tapered and have no surface for the springs to grab on. I don't want to drill into the house, but I might need to.
Such a great demonstration of drilling into bricks. Can you do one for stucco? I want to attach a hose reel to the side of my house and I don't want to make a mistake
the biggest thing to consider with any type of fastener is load. the direction and weight of the load is what determines what kind of fastener you use. i skipped through a lot of this video so i don't know if you mentioned that or not. from the previous comments you didn't. you may wanna make a part two to address that.
Thanks for the very informative video. I’m curious if that DIY tool drill hammer would unscrew those blue screws from concrete to help remove studs/wall?
I mounted a tv to a brick masonry surface above a fireplace. I jacked up everything with the tapcon install. Behind the TV there's lots of bad attempts in the mortar that are a problem for future me or the new owner. I used the wrong bit once, had everything installed and realized how loose everything was. Then I did it correctly and I over torqued several of the tapcons....goes from guddentight to free spinny spinny...
Fell in love with a hole but it’s too large or stripped out? Try using a cotter pin or two to take up the gap. Don’t trust just a single screw for critical duties when using this idea but it has worked pretty well for me.
I typically will use simple 14 gage electrical wire to tighten screws into an oversized hole. (Much like using a toothpick in wood holes in your home). Works like a charm!
Did I miss what screw size/length would be best? I also have to hang a mantel with brackets on a brick and mortar fireplace. I'm looking to use plugs in the mortar. I only have to drill 4 holes for the two brackets. And off topic, is there a minimum distance above the fireplace insert for the mantel?
I've just watched another video which the guy keep repeating: do not drill into the mortar becuase of air pockets in the cement .... LOL ..... ok I guess I have to choose 😅 Nevertheless: GREAT Video... good explanation of the tools ....thank you !
42 seconds with the cordless hammer drill combo, and 6 seconds with the rotary hammer drill. So a 7x speed difference. However, it is only a 36 second difference per hole, and if I'm only doing a few holes, I'm not going to buy a specialized tool (with its own bits) and have more things to look after and store in my house. If you had to drill 100 holes, it would take 3600 seconds, or 60 minutes, longer. 99.9% of homeowners won't drill 100 masonry holes in their entire lifetimes, so a few minutes extra per project is fine. I do recommend getting a nice cordless hammer drill combo with a brushless motor, as this tool will be quite useful quite frequently for you as a homeowner.
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I install security cameras. I tend to use my cordless Bosch hammer drill when I'm only doing 1 or 2 small holes, but I use the Bauer 13 amp rotary hammer from Harbor Freight for anything more (or when I need to drill through more than a couple inches of concrete/brick). I think I got it for around $80, plus another $15-20 for the 16" bits. It's pretty wobbly and not built to the same standard as the more reputable brands, but it works and it hasn't failed me once.
Something you didn't mention but is pretty important is cooling. The cordless hammer drills work at much higher RPM and hammer frequency, and combined with the smaller bits this can quickly cause overheating which can ruin a brand new masonry bit. To combat this, I use a small spray bottle of water and continuously spray the bit and the area around it as I'm drilling. Every 5 seconds or so I back the drill out and spray the bit directly and spray into the hole. This ensures the bit never gets too hot, and as a bonus it also greatly reduces the amount of dust produced (though you should still wear a mask-silicosis is no joke).
Also, if you're drilling all the way through to run wires, make sure to always drill towards the unexposed side of the wall. When you break through the other side there is a good chance that the area around the hole will spall, leaving a rather ugly looking exit hole. If you're feeling lucky you can drill halfway through on one side and then finish it on the other, but this is very difficult to get right and if you're off by even a little it can cause the brick to fracture through it's entire cross-section.
As a retired mason, I loved plumbers and electricians drilling into bricks. The brick would crack and I would get paid to replace them!😀 Hilti invented tapcons back in the 80s. Before they came around we used Rawl caulkins made of lead and zinc.
What do you prefer to use these days?
We live in a historic neighborhood with lots of old brick (which I understand is softer) and the explicit requirement for any exterior fastened thing is to drill and fasten to the mortar, because 1) AIUI repointing would be a ton cheaper than replacing a cracked brick, and 2) breaching the outer surface of the brick is just asking for weather to do a number to the whole wall.
@@davidkaoSo you use tapcons in the mortar?
What are you hanging on that beautiful wall?
@@davidkaoI totally agree. Never liked and avoid drilling into brick. Mortar all day to hang some things.
I just did a project adding pony walls to enclose my back porch. I used tapcons to attach framing to brick and it worked great. I did follow the recommended bit size, and I'm glad you pointed that out.
I wasted so much time and effort trying to use my standard drill. $90 bucks at harbor freight for the rotary hammer drill and it was an absolute game changer. Definitely recommend to anyone drilling into block or into your concrete slabs!
Here's my two cents. I've got a little experience installing into all sorts of masonry and concrete from when I used to work in a factory installing large, specialized refrigeration equipment for bars and restaurants.
6:06 -- 1) Some masonry drill bits require a steady stream of water to cool the bit and flush out the swarf. You can do this most easily by taking a common, disposable plastic water bottle, filling it, then puncturing a tiny hole a half inch above the bottle's base. Now your partner can squeeze a stream of clean water onto the bit and hole while you work the drill. 2) Sometimes masonry drill bits require you to start the drilling at a 45 degree angle to the work, then quickly rotate perpendicular to the work and continue drilling normally. This is typically done with smaller, more fragile masonry bits.
9:39 -- 1) Regarding anchoring into concrete, that is a whole 'nother world... a world dominated by Redhead brand concrete anchors. Always, always, ALWAYS drill holes deeper than you need to so you can hammer the Redheads flush with the concrete to hide them should you not need the anchors anymore. Otherwise you'll have to grind all the anchor studs flush... a huge pain. 2) The other major way to anchor into concrete is with Ramsets or similar powder actuated devices. Very efficient way to pin the bottom plate of a house wall to a concrete foundation, for example. 3) God help you if you hit rebar, as it could seriously injure you at worst or severely complicate your project at best.
A video I'd like to see is installing into stucco house siding. Seems terrifying but likely isn't too hard. Something like attaching a fence to stucco.
Thanks. We got a lot of value for our two cents. Is there a way to figure out where the rebar is, like figuring out where a stud is in a wall?
@@roberttrimmier3276- There is probably a way to determine where the rebar is but that is beyond me. An experienced construction manager might know.
If you're pouring cement and laying rebar for your own project, you might have enough control over the project to mark where the rebar is being laid for future reference. I imagine you would immediately mark the X- and Y-axises of the rebar, let the cement set, then transfer your marks to the concrete somehow. Then you could hypothetically plan around those temporary marks where to sink your Redhead or similar concrete fasteners such that they avoid the rebar.
I was really afraid I’d screw this up even after watching several other videos of how to do this correctly - you gave me the confidence to drill into my brick house and porch columns to put up a screen porch! Thank you. ❤
This video was posted at 6p ET and a few hours before your comment, so you saw this and then immediately put up a screen porch at the end of the day? Ok 🙄
That's not what she said. Just "it gave me confidence to". Testament to another great video helping DIYers succeed. 😊
@@mattrightmire8054 Fair enough, but the implication from that statement, I believe, would typically lead most people to conclude she not only gained the confidence but gained it and then went out and did it. I don't know, just odd to me. Maybe I'm the only one, haha
I really hope you're married and if so, your husband is a lucky man. If not, "eligible men line up single file!!! I'm married but jeez lueeze you are quite the catch😘
@@iam_flynn1611 thank you and yes married .. I appreciate the compliment!
For the few times I have drilled into the wall to mount a camera or motion light I've always chosen to drill into the mortar and not the brick. I figure if the brick face gets chipped or cracked it would be a mess whereas if the mortar fell out or got ruined or I made a mistake drilling I could repair the mortar. Thanks for making another informative video.
Agreed
And in your case (lightweight camera), you were right to do so. But if you were aiming for something heavier, that gets lots of forces applied to it every day (pulling away from the wall, and also weigh a lot), like a 100ft hose with a reel, I would go into the brick, because it's stronger.
@@shane250 thanks for the response
@@shane250 if the mortar is fragile and you're using plugs, you can make so the plugs expand in the direction of the bricks, essentially sandwiching it between the two solid bricks.
My hose reel is still holding fine after 4 years, and I remove it before every winter. I drilled into the mortar except one screw (as it was impossible to line up all four screwholes on the reel with the mortar) and used plugs, although the mortar was still in good shape so there was no need to set the plugs in a certain direction.
No no use some filler like poly lol or hydraulic to fill in lol … liquid nail not going a where
That's a really great demo, Scott. Thank you!
2 things I would add, one from experience and one from inexperience: Along with instructing not to over-tighten and thereby strip the hole, I should mention how the hole needs to be deeper than the screw (bc I've seen people neglect this and have a really tough time getting the screw all the way in) and along that vein, it's really much smarter to drive the Tapcon screws with a quarter inch magnetic nut driver, and NOT the flat head screw driver slot! 😱 Ugh. It really is basic DIY, but if you're just getting started with power tools, using and knowing to use something as straight forward as a nut driver is not already a given and that silly slot on the end of a Tapcon could have a newbie risking a slip that could put a screw driver through a finger! 😵🤕 I had a window treatment designer trying to do just this method with both problems before I explained to her what she could do better.
Second thought: I used a Milwaukee M12 Hammer Drill combo to install window treatments in concrete and brick for nearly 2 years around the Chicago area (anything downtown is SO likely to be concrete...🙄 I guess they're afraid of fire for some reason 😂). Mainly bc it was the smallest and lightest hammer drill the guy who trained me could find (in our kind of work, weight matters a good deal) and I just followed along. Just recently, I went solo and had decided (like you said) an SDS+ bit with a Hammer Drill like you used would be worth the additional weight, and expense. But, I admit to making a very rookie mistake of my own on my first use of my awesome new Dewalt SDS+ Hammer Drill: Since on drill Combo unit you rotate the selector chuck from drill to hammer to get the impact you need for "hammer drilling" and the icon is a hammer 🔨, I was a little unclear what to use on the new model that had 2 icons, a hammer 🔨, and a drill... I've still only used it a couple times and was and am REALLY pleased with how well it worked...But, I think I need to go back and read the manual a little more carefully, as I'm pretty sure I've just dulled my expensive new bit by using the hammer setting and making holes by literally HAMMERING a bit straight into concrete instead of hammer-DRILLING (WITH rotation)! 🤦🏻😭😄
Am I right? The Hammer 🔨 icon on the Combo drill is correct for THAT device, but on an SDS+ drill the same icon means No Rotation, specifically for bits that chisel! 👷🏻
It's okay...I'm a professional. 😅
My wife got me a tee-shirt that says on it, "This is not a drill."
Underneath it is a picture of a screwdriver.
Yes, you are correct with the SDS hammer icon being "hammer only " mode which works really well for using chisels and other non drill bit attachments
Great video!! With electric work, im usually using tapcons to mount emt or pvc or light fixtures. They basically work great for me. Ive always stripped out the mortar, one tip i sometimes use is to start the tapcons with my impact and then finish tightening by hand with my 10-in1.
I put a drywall anchor in around the TapCon.
Pulls them up nicely.
I have used both Tapcon screws and inserts with screws and I like them equally. I have never drilled into the brick as I am always afraid that I will crack it and then have a mess to deal with. I usually just use my DeWalt standard battery drill for the holes and I have a HF Hammer drill that I use when drilling into concrete. Great video, as usual!!
Most homeowners are going to have a hard time justifying an SDS hammer drill, though renting one is a good option. I’ve drilled dozens of holes into concrete and brick with my standard Makita and Ryobi hammer Drills and they work just fine as long as the bits are of good quality and are still sharp.
Tapcons are like magic. Love 'em. Proper drill bit and size is crucial.
I have used tapcons for years with great success. Finish tightening the tapcons by hand to prevent stripping. If you are careful you can even remove and replace them in the same hole successfully. In my opinion always use the mortar joint as you can repair it if you elect to remove whatever you have attached.
What a great alternative to tapcon. I’ve found that brick varies quite a bit. Just use the right size and style of bit and the right drill then the job will go smoothly.
Looking forward to the next video on concrete anchors!
I used blue Tapcon 1/4" screws to mount 2x2s to a brick wall that was originally an outside wall in a room that is an add-on. That was done to put up wood grain panels for a home office to make it more presentable for computer repair customers. I used 2x2s so as not to lose too much space. I only drilled into bricks, not mortar. I bought a corded electric hammer drill which can also do normal drilling. This was back in 1997 and, while drilling the holes in brick took a while, I didn't have any problems with holes stripping and such, but I did go through a lot of bits. I drilled the higher holes on a 6' ladder without issue, though it was more work leaning forward, but that did help with pressure. I pre-drilled the 2x2s with holes for the screws to go through and drilled a wider depth on the paneling side for the screw heads to seat on so the outside was flat. I also ran Romex from an added breaker in the breaker panel, through the attic and down into the room for light switches, 4-foot fluorescent lights and lots of outlets. Of course, that was before the paneling went up, but I knew where the Romex was. I didn't know about 2x4 Romex/Wiring Guards back then or I would have used them. That one room has its own breaker now.
I usually drill through the entire wall and install a very large carriage bolt. Inside the house it doubles as a picture hanger
Genius!
I like Tapcons and also the plastic anchors are good too. I Use Tapcons for heavy applications, never had a problem.
Bro this is the longest video for drilling two screws! But thanking you for all you have shared, learned so much on best drill, bits and screw options. Thank you and Subscribed to your channel.
I like the tip about using a punch to prepare the hole for drilling, it should help prevent drill tip wander!
I've not come across "tap con" in the UK. Rawlplugs have been around for at least 40 years, maybe longer. I always install into the mortar. Looking at the side of my neighbours house, they had ( old tech) broadband installed a decade or so ago...the installer made a real pig's ear of it, drilling through the brick with God knows what drill bit , resulting in the brick spalling off in big chunks at the cable entry points.
Rawlplug is a trade name , are they simply "Wall plug" in the US?
Excellent lesson. Clear and concise instruction to guide you all the way. Glad I watched. Thanks.
Good video, you're brought up a lot of good points. To be quite honest with you with the blue screws. I go two size smaller than they recommend, for the drill bit size & then I just mutilate one of the blue screws throw it away. Grab another perfectly new blue screw; and try to follow the thread pattern of the previous one that I just cranked in with my hand. Another words I use a socket set to hand turn it. (But at the end of the day, I agree with you the other method is better to use the plugs.) That was a great suggestion you used --- to use the screw and then lightly push them in flush with a 🔨 hammer.
This is an excellent video. Side note; The foundation of my house is some sort of concrete that has small rocks/pebbles in it. The pebbles tend to be much harder than the concrete so if drilling a hole and hitting one of them its almost better to start another hole elsewhere if possible.
My basement walls have concrete columns every so many feet with rebar in them. Took the guys installing the radon system a while to get through it.
Interesting. It’s been years since I had occasion to do this. Back then I found the bricks from different manufacturers varied wildly in hardness and time to drill. I also used lead-zinc lag shields as the plug component.
Makes perfect sense. Thanks for putting this out there. I’ve struggled with this for years
I love my SDS Rotary Hammer Drill. It's awesome.
One point I'd like to make: at about 5:57, you advise unscrewing the chuck, a quarter turn or so, to "lock" the bit in place. This was discredited a few months ago on AvE's channel here: ua-cam.com/video/8ztB1C7dERc/v-deo.html
What you're actually doing is _disengaging_ the ratchet which keeps the chuck locked in place, leaving only the screw tension to hold the bit.
This. Can’t believe I had to scroll so far to find someone saying it!
Totally agree!@@emmettturner9452
You would be correct sir, or better yet, you ARE CORRECT.
I like the way you simplify DIY. Thanks
If only this video was around when we did our own screened-in porch extension. I remember countless trips to the big box store and bits and hammer rotary drill, rentals, UA-cam videos, etc. We used Tapcon for securing the ledger board to brick. I recalled the package came with a temporary use masonry bit. Didn't have the time or experience to mess around so Tapcon it was.
Good review. I have used tapcon and have never had a problem, and they are great where strength is required. However, with brick walls (where the object being installed will not result in strong pull out force, just shear force) I use wall anchors. That way I can have one masonry bit with the appropriate anchors in my kit, and use whatever screw is supplied or available. Also I don't use a hammer drill on brick, that way I don't crack anything and because the hammer drill is not part of my standard kit in my truck. I only use a hammer drill a few time a year.
Great to learn about the bit specification. Have seen those but I only dabble so that's useful info moving forward.
Great, thanks for the feedback!
Big difference. Needed these information few years back. Well done
Many times I have drilled the hole in concrete and hammer wooden dowels into the hole, then used the fastener. It works great for some applications.
I haven’t had the opportunity to do this with brick, but I have had a couple of experiences using Tapcons with concrete block, and did not have any trouble. As far as over torking, I just had a feeling that I should avoid it snd didn’t. I work at a hardware store that sells fasteners in bulk through Hillman. The TapCons come with the correct masonry bit in the box, and when we empty the boxes into the bulk bins we let the bit go into the bins with the tapcons so any purchaser can take it along with them if they need it. Maybe other stores do this as well.
Good job. Wall plugs are great. I've even used large zip ties and redheads. Especially for mounting things. Nailing 2x material Gripcons 3/16" are a go too for Door bucks etc... what until you drill into Porcelain wall tile. PITA! They make a 5/32" SDS that does a good job for pilot holes in hard material. I'm a retired carpenter. I miss the challenge...lol? The new screw designs are awesome. You have a practical channel 👍
Best explanation I have seen yet in a short video.
I put up a flag pole and put tap con screws in mortar. The pole did not stay up long. Then I put the tap con screws in the brick and it has stayed in place.
Perfect!!! Need to mount a DTV antenna to my chimney to get it high enough for good reception. Very helpful, thanks!
Scott, love your videos. As a resident retired guy in a small hardware store, I send customers to your channel for all types of DIY jobs.
For us DIYers, there is another option - 1/4" impact driver with masonry impact bits. These work substantially better than a regular cordless drill with hammer function, in fact, they're nearly as good as an SDS for small holes for tapcons or small anchors like this. If you do any mechanical work or run a lot of deck screws, you probably already have an impact, and just need the bit. Try it out, it works great. I'll never use a regular drill driver with the hammer function again.
Brick is much more difficult to replace, sometimes impossible to find a match; while mortar is within the scope of an average homeowner.
What size drill bit did you use for the #14 wall plug with #14 screws? TIA
My sds drill is one of the best investments I ever made. I was trying to drill a 5/8 hole 5 inches deep with a normal hammer drill. An hour later I barely hit depth. Bought my SDS and did a 9/16 hole 5 inches deep in about a minute. There's no going back. As far as Tapcons they are always hit or miss. Sometimes they bite and sometimes they don't. When they slip I put a broken zip tie in the hole and then try again. They usually catch. I like your hollow wall anchor method better. I think I might go that route in the future. Thx
I have had good results with Tapcon, anchoring into very old, soft brick. For me, a huge benefit is the hex head option because I always seem to strip out screw heads. I can a ratchet with those. But I realized that over torquing with those - especially in soft brick - would be problematic.
Great video. I do not like or use tapcons. I have used regular plastic anchors for many years. You won't pull them out. I have not tried those screws you are using but it looks like a great choice. Always enjoy your videos!!
Another great video Scott. Great tips and I agree that the SDS Plus is the way to go for pros or homeowners with many holes to drill.
I would add one additional step when doing exterior projects. Fill the hole with silicone caulk before sinking the screw.
Why the caulk?
Wow that was such a helpful video thank you! Drilling in brick, concrete and mortar can be tricky.
With Tapcons it is very important to clean out the hole after you drill using a shop vac. Not doing this can keep it from going in all the way or worse, snap the head off leaving the shank in the hole.
Agreed, thanks for the feedback!
Thanks. If the Tapcon strips out the mortar, can you use a wall plug with the Tapcon? Or stuff in some line trimmer string?
If you use Tapcon screws ALWAYS look on the back of the package. It will tell you the appropriate size drill bit to be used.
Tapcon also color-codes the screws and drill bits, red goes with red and green with green. If you buy the larger packages an appropriate bit is included. Also, the back of the screw package tells you what size nut-driver is required if it is hex head.
Rotating the drill chuck the other direction is a myth, you should hear the sound twice when locking and that's just that, moving backwards unlocks one level of the lock mechanism. I can search for the videos or patents that prove it :D
Absolutely worth subscribing!
Thanks mucho my friend. Very helpful.
This is very helpful. I have been wondering about best practices for brick and block stone houses, for years. I have been using Tapcons, drilling into mortar, just as explained, and I have also stripped holes out while tightening Tapcons. Thank you very much for this little-discussed topic.
Love Tapcons (and similar masonry screws). They are finicky though. Need to drill deeper than the screw, and they are sensitive to drill size. I've found some 5/16 are too tight, some too loose, once you get a good one they go in great and have stupid holding force in concrete.
My experience with Tapcons is mixed. When using them in mortar or even cinder or concrete blocks, they work fine because the material is soft enough but not too soft to provide a good hold. When it comes to brick however, that's a different story. Depending on the brick, like the ones in this video, they are real hard and not forgiving so Tapcons easily snap. I am installing a composite deck which is partly over the top of a brick/block wall so I have had to secure the boards to both and anywhere I have had to attach to brick it has been problematic - so I am looking for an alternative. My biggest concern is I need something that will not loosen over time from being walked on. I might give the plastic anchors a try with standard deck screws and see how that works out. At least I have some options now.
I'm with you, I hate tapcons and prefer the plastic anchors.
Great video and great information
Good teaching skills 👍 😊
My Bauer Harbor Freight SDS Plus rotary hammer is awesome. Got it free with purchase of $89 5amp battery and charger.
The main issue I’ve had with drilling brick is not using a sharp bit. Depending on the type of concrete or rock, they can wear pretty quickly. There is a reason they are sold in packages of 5 or 10 of the same size.
For anchoring where there will be repeated stress like a handrail, I fave the expansion bolts, which are a bolt with a tapered nut and a sleeve which gets pressed into the masonry. I also prefer several small anchors to distribute the load rather than a single large anchor.
i like the plastic plugs for anything hanging verticle. tapcons for anything attached to a floor. theres also "red heads". those have great holding strength. kinda pricey but very effective. its a basically a bolt with a threaded reciever that you insert in hole then tap with a punch then thread your bolt in.
Yeah, I will be diving into larger anchors soon. Tapcons, Simpson Titen HD, Read Heads, and possibly Hilti.
Thanks for another very helpful and straightforward video.
You bet 🙌
? What's better to install exterior basement entrance handrail, screws or anchor system???
Super nice and tidy!
Super helpful. Thank you for this well-rounded information. Bless you.
Another good video. I can recall the first time I used a rotary hammer - I was shocked at how easily the bits went into concrete. However, for smaller holes, or when drilling into the sandstone sheathing of my house, I just use hammer drill, even though I have a cordless rotary hammer.
I do like to put anchors into the mortar if I can, because it's easier to repair if I want to remove the anchor. If the bricks are soft, mortar can actually be better - in one house we had a patio and steps with very soft bricks, which sometimes cracked even when drilling into the middle of them - but for well-fired bricks, I agree they are preferable. Also, in bricks or stone, I prefer using Rawl plugs to Tapcon, because I'd cracked them with Tapcon, and I feel you get more control with an insert and a screw. Just be sure to blow all the dust out of the hole before inserting. I have had some bad luck with no-name wall anchors, though most of them are fine, so now I just stick with name-brands like Rawl and Fischer. (Sort of like Wago vs random Chinese stuff, although not as risky).
THANKS FOR SHARING THIS INFO SCOTT, …we are the exception to the rule,our brick is over 100yrs old and very hard 😅💚💚💚
I just want to hang my house numbers. I glued them to a piece of flooring tile (12x24) and now need to attach the tile to the house. In the past I've had brick which was nice and regular like yours. For normal bricks with normal mortar they make spring loaded hangers which grab the bricks inside the mortar joint. They worked perfectly. On this new house, my bricks, for all intents and purposes, are tapered and have no surface for the springs to grab on. I don't want to drill into the house, but I might need to.
you can also plug the holes you made with wood dowels and then you can use any screw of your liking
That will rot over time, though. Brick is not a waterproof material, so the wood plug will get, and potentially stay, damp.
This was very informative and helpful! Thank you for the details!
Happy to help 👍
Such a great demonstration of drilling into bricks. Can you do one for stucco? I want to attach a hose reel to the side of my house and I don't want to make a mistake
How about a video on drilling stucco over cinder block? Good stuff. Thanks.
I have a collection of hammer drills, and rotary hammers. Tapcons, sometimes I'll toss in a copper wire.
the biggest thing to consider with any type of fastener is load. the direction and weight of the load is what determines what kind of fastener you use. i skipped through a lot of this video so i don't know if you mentioned that or not. from the previous comments you didn't. you may wanna make a part two to address that.
@LRN2DIY proved that turning the chuck back a click to lock is a myth. just tighten it and leave it
Great Job man!!
Just like you said if you drill the right hole and do not overwork them Tapcons are the way to go.
Hey Brother excelente video Thank You
You bet, thanks for watching 👍
You can also get a 1/8” masonry drill bit and use a exterior drywall screw wand save money on the high dollar screws
Very nice tips. As for tap cons there ok as long as they are used right 😎👍
Agreed, they can strip out the hole if you aren't careful
Great video！When drilling exterior walls, I wonder if we need to waterproof the hole area by caulking it, or some sort? Thanks!
What bit should you use for morter. I have a 5/32x3-1/2
Where do you get a hook like that? Do you have a link to it?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I buy the tapcon set that comes with a drill bit.
Thanks for the very informative video. I’m curious if that DIY tool drill hammer would unscrew those blue screws from concrete to help remove studs/wall?
Which size drill bit did you use? Did I miss that??
Is it necessary to use a Tapcon drill bit to use Tapcon anchors, or will regular masonry bits suffice?
I mounted a tv to a brick masonry surface above a fireplace. I jacked up everything with the tapcon install. Behind the TV there's lots of bad attempts in the mortar that are a problem for future me or the new owner. I used the wrong bit once, had everything installed and realized how loose everything was. Then I did it correctly and I over torqued several of the tapcons....goes from guddentight to free spinny spinny...
Fell in love with a hole but it’s too large or stripped out? Try using a cotter pin or two to take up the gap. Don’t trust just a single screw for critical duties when using this idea but it has worked pretty well for me.
I typically will use simple 14 gage electrical wire to tighten screws into an oversized hole. (Much like using a toothpick in wood holes in your home). Works like a charm!
Any particular reason you are using Torx (star) drive screws?
Would the instruction be the same for installing a mantel over a fireplace. Drill into stone or mortar?
I always lean towards stone or brick for a more secure hold. If you have a bracket with multiple screw holes you could do a mix of stone and mortar.
Drill the mortar. If you chip, fracture, crack , or break the stone it will be a costly repair. Mortar is easily repaired.
Did I miss what screw size/length would be best? I also have to hang a mantel with brackets on a brick and mortar fireplace. I'm looking to use plugs in the mortar. I only have to drill 4 holes for the two brackets. And off topic, is there a minimum distance above the fireplace insert for the mantel?
The heavy duty Tapcons work much better than the standard one. I have ran them in with a impact before and they havent stripped out the hole.
How would you hang window shutters on brick?
In terms of ease of undoing this process, is it easier to fill in holes in the mortar or the brick?
Mortar is easy - brick is hard. Only really good way in brick is to replace the brick if you have extras.
What are those blue wall plugs called? Hard to find in box stores. Got a link for the stuff you used?
I've just watched another video which the guy keep repeating: do not drill into the mortar becuase of air pockets in the cement ....
LOL ..... ok I guess I have to choose 😅 Nevertheless: GREAT Video... good explanation of the tools ....thank you !
42 seconds with the cordless hammer drill combo, and 6 seconds with the rotary hammer drill. So a 7x speed difference. However, it is only a 36 second difference per hole, and if I'm only doing a few holes, I'm not going to buy a specialized tool (with its own bits) and have more things to look after and store in my house.
If you had to drill 100 holes, it would take 3600 seconds, or 60 minutes, longer. 99.9% of homeowners won't drill 100 masonry holes in their entire lifetimes, so a few minutes extra per project is fine.
I do recommend getting a nice cordless hammer drill combo with a brushless motor, as this tool will be quite useful quite frequently for you as a homeowner.