Links: Wheel puller like I used from Amazon: amzn.to/3kSyRiu Wheel puller from harbor freight that I used: www.harborfreight.com/bolt-ty... Timing Chain: amzn.to/3Pjr776 I am a member of Amazon Associates. Clicking link may help me.
Love the channel, Currently doing the timing chain on my 99. The rubber chain guide was in a million pieces when I took the cover off. Was definitely the cause of the rattle on my engine. Thanks for the videos, you’re one of the few channels that goes in depth on these 2.5Ls engines cheers!
Real proud and thankful for this video. I need to make this fix too. To be sure, I believe my timing chain and sprockets might be OK, but I need to verify my sprockets and chain is timed correctly because my distributor will not set right aligned with the hold-down bolt hole. It is a tad-bit off by about 3-5 degrees. Yep, I have TDC on #1 and my distributor is temporarily pinned for 2.5L (not 4.0). So, I figure if I need to pull the cover to verify, I might as well change out the sprockets and chain. About $64 to $76 including the gasket.
Another great how-to video, Steve. I have a lot of "previous owner" issues too, but most of them are shoddy wiring, and jerry-rigging. I'm slowing but surely getting them knocked out, one at a time.
Thanks so much for doing this video. I have the confidence to do mine now. Keep it up! Your jeep is in wonderful shape. My 98 is all rusty and bolts keep breaking. Lol! That's Canada for ya. Thanks again, I subscribed.
Doing my chain today and my guide was in chunks at the bottom of my oil pan. Good video! Mite want to pull the oil pan yours could be in there as well. 🤙🤙
With a faulty tensioner or faulty guides would the noise be more noticeable at idle? Would it also increase with rpm? I’m having a slight knock but only at idle. When I give rpm it goes away. Would a compression test show anything with the pistons?
It will be more noticeable at idle. If it is a lower pitch sound it could be something else. Mine actually had a broken piston skirt. I have a video showing how bad it got when it finally went completely out. It is the first video in my engine rebuild playlist. Thanks for stopping by!
@@reedcarpenter2994It can be either way sadly. Before mine broke off, the more rpm the less I heard. After it failed, the more RPM the faster it made the sound. If it isn't bad, it can even stop when warmed up. Mine never stopped. A timing chain and also make it sound like a diesel. I have had that to happen before. Your questions are welcome.
@@reedcarpenter2994 No it wouldn't. I will send a link here of what mine sounded like when it failed. If it isn't super annoying for you, they will run a long time like that. That may not be what is wrong either. I am just telling you things it could be.
Almost every 2.5L had that sound. Mine has it and it goes and comes.. Going to check my timing chain. Almost sure the guy that owned your before. His twin owned mine.
Great Video! Thanks for creating it. It's been super helpful. I'm afraid the guide is in pieces at the bottom of my oil pan. Anyone have any recommendations to removing the pan without having to mess with the exhaust? At first look it does not look like there would be enough room to remove, but I might be mistaken.
Thanks Corey! I don't have any experience with that. My guide was missing and when I did my engine rebuild it wasn't in the oil pan either. I personally would replace the timing chain with the new guide and not worry about that. The chances of it sucking to the oil pump screen would be very slim. Have you had the cover off yet?
@@ForceBuilt Yep, took the cover off and found broken pieces still stuck under the metal "clips"....(I believe you referred to them as ears), the spring was loose just sitting there (it didnt fall into the pan) and one other broken piece I didn't notice that fell into the pan when I touched the chain . That piece fell into the pan near the opening and I was able to blindly find it with my fingers and pulled it out. I'm just wondering if there are any other pieces in the pan. You're probably right....slim chances of it sucking up but do you think I should be concerned with smaller pieces potentially being in the pan?
I really don't think you have anything to worry about. But that is just me, doesn't mean I am right. I think the risk is very low. If it was starving for oil, your oil pressure will tell you.
@@ForceBuilt One more question regarding the timing marks. When I rotate the gears, I can get the marks almost lined up but when I apply pressure when turning to get them 100% accurate, they don't stay lined up after I back off the pressure from turning (they go back to "almost" lined up. I'm not sure if this is common or if I'm close enough. If I do another full rotation, would that change anything or would I end up with the same "almost" mark position? If you don't mind I thought about emailing you (to the email address below) a picture of my "almost" marks to see what you think.
@@coreyhall5898 sorry for the delay. I've been mowing the grass. One more rotation will not matter. The compression is what is pushing you back. You can remove spark plugs to keep that from happening. Hope this helps!
Very easy to do. With the timing cover removed, the 2 gears have dots stamped into the edge of each of them. At the closest point between the gears, rotate the crankshaft until the 2 dots point directly at each other(at the closest point between both gears). Now remove the 2 gears and chain. Replace with new gears and chain, making sure the dots are in the exact same spots as they were before you removed the first set of gears. Hope this helps!
One thing I don't understand is why they didn't provide that tensioner on the 4.0L. At least on mine I don't have that piece. Sure would make taking up that slack better on these 4L big time. It's just the plastic piece and that's it.
Ha Ha! If you look at some of my future videos, I do an engine rebuild. That is exactly what is going on lol. Good ear there! Check it out here if you like. ua-cam.com/video/ctWhFx-orRM/v-deo.html
I have a 2000 tj with same issues(knocking noise) still not sure if it’s valves lifters, or timing chain? But I’ll probably start with the timing chain it’s asking for it with 148,000 miles on it. We’ll see? By the way thanks for the tutorial ..
So it looks to be just a little more complicated than changing the water pump. I may get a buddy of mine over (a second set of eyes) and tackle mine. 270k and it's never been changed.
I don't know what to tell you about that. The 4.0 and 2.5 engines are non-interference though. I took my timing chain off and rotated the engine around multiple times getting the dots to line up on the gears for correct timing. No interference on mine. Read post #4 from Jerry Bransford www.jeepforum.com/threads/will-timing-chain-break-bend-valves.516496/
We can’t get the crank bolt off because our IDIOT BROTHER put locktite on the crank bolt and jumped up and down on a breaker bar to tighten it and now no one can get the bolt off and now dads nothing but mad at this point
Links:
Wheel puller like I used from Amazon: amzn.to/3kSyRiu
Wheel puller from harbor freight that I used: www.harborfreight.com/bolt-ty...
Timing Chain: amzn.to/3Pjr776
I am a member of Amazon Associates. Clicking link may help me.
_I'm almost afraid to start it._ - That's sounds like me just about everytime I work on my Jeep. 😆 Good work!
Haha Long Jeep! Yeah, I think most everyone that wrenches on their own stuff has that feeling from time to time. Thanks!
Steve reveals parts of the TJ that I've never seen before. Great work!
Thanks a lot Bernie!
Love the channel, Currently doing the timing chain on my 99. The rubber chain guide was in a million pieces when I took the cover off. Was definitely the cause of the rattle on my engine. Thanks for the videos, you’re one of the few channels that goes in depth on these 2.5Ls engines cheers!
Awesome Ethan! Glad you watching and doing your own work!
Real proud and thankful for this video.
I need to make this fix too. To be sure, I believe my timing chain and sprockets might be OK, but I need to verify my sprockets and chain is timed correctly because my distributor will not set right aligned with the hold-down bolt hole. It is a tad-bit off by about 3-5 degrees. Yep, I have TDC on #1 and my distributor is temporarily pinned for 2.5L (not 4.0). So, I figure if I need to pull the cover to verify, I might as well change out the sprockets and chain. About $64 to $76 including the gasket.
Thanks Cyotedude! Good luck on your project. Hope it goes well and don't hesitate to ask a question. I will be glad to answer if I can.
Beautiful Jeep. Love the color. Well done on the timing chain swap!
Thank you Brad!
Great video! Thanks for starting off with what’s happening that’s causing you to dig into it.
“Previous owner” needs its own dedicated sound effect...
Great Idea Ed! That would be too funny HAHA!
Another great how-to video, Steve. I have a lot of "previous owner" issues too, but most of them are shoddy wiring, and jerry-rigging. I'm slowing but surely getting them knocked out, one at a time.
Thanks Mark! Yeah, I don't know what some people are thinking when the repair things. Leaves a big mess for the next guy lol.
As a Jerry by birth, I'm totally against jury-rigging a fix.
Thanks so much for doing this video. I have the confidence to do mine now. Keep it up! Your jeep is in wonderful shape. My 98 is all rusty and bolts keep breaking. Lol! That's Canada for ya. Thanks again, I subscribed.
Thank you Jody! Welcome onboard! Thanks for watching!
I fixed the rattling noise in my 2.5L TJ by changing the rocker arms and push rods. Really easy job.
Cool, Mine are really quiet after it warms up.
Nice I was about to do the same on my jeep. People ask me if it’s a Diesel engine so it’s time to do it. Thanks for the how to.
Thanks Gonzo! Glad you liked it! Good luck with your repair.
Good stuff thanks.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching
Doing my chain today and my guide was in chunks at the bottom of my oil pan. Good video! Mite want to pull the oil pan yours could be in there as well. 🤙🤙
I have since rebuilt my engine. Nothing in oil pan other than the broken piston skirt lol. I have a video on the engine rebuild. Thanks for watching!
With a faulty tensioner or faulty guides would the noise be more noticeable at idle? Would it also increase with rpm? I’m having a slight knock but only at idle. When I give rpm it goes away. Would a compression test show anything with the pistons?
It will be more noticeable at idle. If it is a lower pitch sound it could be something else. Mine actually had a broken piston skirt. I have a video showing how bad it got when it finally went completely out. It is the first video in my engine rebuild playlist. Thanks for stopping by!
@@ForceBuilt sorry one more question. If it was a piston skirt would it only be at idle or would it increase with rpm?
@@reedcarpenter2994It can be either way sadly. Before mine broke off, the more rpm the less I heard. After it failed, the more RPM the faster it made the sound. If it isn't bad, it can even stop when warmed up. Mine never stopped. A timing chain and also make it sound like a diesel. I have had that to happen before. Your questions are welcome.
@@ForceBuilt would a compression check help diagnose a piston skirt
@@reedcarpenter2994 No it wouldn't. I will send a link here of what mine sounded like when it failed. If it isn't super annoying for you, they will run a long time like that. That may not be what is wrong either. I am just telling you things it could be.
Almost every 2.5L had that sound. Mine has it and it goes and comes.. Going to check my timing chain. Almost sure the guy that owned your before. His twin owned mine.
Our Jeeps are definitely related lol! Thanks Pete!
Are you missing the oil slinger on the bottom timing gear
Good eye. I don't know about the 4.0l but not all 2.5l have it. I checked the factory service manual.
Thanks for watching!
Great Video! Thanks for creating it. It's been super helpful. I'm afraid the guide is in pieces at the bottom of my oil pan. Anyone have any recommendations to removing the pan without having to mess with the exhaust? At first look it does not look like there would be enough room to remove, but I might be mistaken.
Thanks Corey! I don't have any experience with that. My guide was missing and when I did my engine rebuild it wasn't in the oil pan either. I personally would replace the timing chain with the new guide and not worry about that. The chances of it sucking to the oil pump screen would be very slim. Have you had the cover off yet?
@@ForceBuilt Yep, took the cover off and found broken pieces still stuck under the metal "clips"....(I believe you referred to them as ears), the spring was loose just sitting there (it didnt fall into the pan) and one other broken piece I didn't notice that fell into the pan when I touched the chain . That piece fell into the pan near the opening and I was able to blindly find it with my fingers and pulled it out. I'm just wondering if there are any other pieces in the pan. You're probably right....slim chances of it sucking up but do you think I should be concerned with smaller pieces potentially being in the pan?
I really don't think you have anything to worry about. But that is just me, doesn't mean I am right. I think the risk is very low. If it was starving for oil, your oil pressure will tell you.
@@ForceBuilt One more question regarding the timing marks. When I rotate the gears, I can get the marks almost lined up but when I apply pressure when turning to get them 100% accurate, they don't stay lined up after I back off the pressure from turning (they go back to "almost" lined up. I'm not sure if this is common or if I'm close enough. If I do another full rotation, would that change anything or would I end up with the same "almost" mark position? If you don't mind I thought about emailing you (to the email address below) a picture of my "almost" marks to see what you think.
@@coreyhall5898 sorry for the delay. I've been mowing the grass. One more rotation will not matter. The compression is what is pushing you back. You can remove spark plugs to keep that from happening. Hope this helps!
OMG thank you!do you know where I can get a A/c bypass kit?
Sorry, I do not.
What size are the bolts used to go through the harmonic balancer puller and screw into the balancer itself?
How did you go about setting the timing?
Very easy to do. With the timing cover removed, the 2 gears have dots stamped into the edge of each of them. At the closest point between the gears, rotate the crankshaft until the 2 dots point directly at each other(at the closest point between both gears). Now remove the 2 gears and chain. Replace with new gears and chain, making sure the dots are in the exact same spots as they were before you removed the first set of gears. Hope this helps!
@@ForceBuilt thank you very much
One thing I don't understand is why they didn't provide that tensioner on the 4.0L. At least on mine I don't have that piece. Sure would make taking up that slack better on these 4L big time. It's just the plastic piece and that's it.
You are correct. The bigger 4.0 doesn't have that piece. I think it should also. Thanks for commenting!
can you link the tool you used from harbor freight? Thank you
Thanks Brian! Yes, I updated the info in the description of this video. The links are there now. Good luck
Oh, where is JJ? Also, wow you have 2k subs now! Great job :)
sounds like piston skirt is in the oil pan, check it
Ha Ha! If you look at some of my future videos, I do an engine rebuild. That is exactly what is going on lol. Good ear there! Check it out here if you like. ua-cam.com/video/ctWhFx-orRM/v-deo.html
I have a 2000 tj with same issues(knocking noise) still not sure if it’s valves lifters, or timing chain? But I’ll probably start with the timing chain it’s asking for it with 148,000 miles on it. We’ll see? By the way thanks for the tutorial ..
You are very Welcome!
Ever figure out the tapping sound?
Yes, Broken piston skirt. I did a full rebuild in a different video on my channel. Thanks for watching!
How you start the Jeep without pressing the clutch?
Here is the video that taught me how. ua-cam.com/video/u00V3gmQ_uM/v-deo.html
@@ForceBuilt thank you
I have a few questions! Is there any way I could get a hold of you?
futuraforce@gmail.com
@@ForceBuilt I sent you a email!!
@@jamesrobert4985 You have mail.
So it looks to be just a little more complicated than changing the water pump. I may get a buddy of mine over (a second set of eyes) and tackle mine. 270k and it's never been changed.
It isn't hard to change at all. Go for it!
My 95 lost a chain and stuck a valve through the piston, valve broke in 3 pieces so yes they will
I don't know what to tell you about that. The 4.0 and 2.5 engines are non-interference though. I took my timing chain off and rotated the engine around multiple times getting the dots to line up on the gears for correct timing. No interference on mine.
Read post #4 from Jerry Bransford
www.jeepforum.com/threads/will-timing-chain-break-bend-valves.516496/
We can’t get the crank bolt off because our IDIOT BROTHER put locktite on the crank bolt and jumped up and down on a breaker bar to tighten it and now no one can get the bolt off and now dads nothing but mad at this point
Oh no. I'm not sure how to handle that. Heat will break loose loctite but I would not want to get that area too hot. Good luck!
@@ForceBuilt thank you for your help I will let everyone know to try some heat and hopefully they will get it loose
My new napa timing chain seems way more sloppy then yours
That's strange. I wonder why? Is it quiet?
you get exaust gasket to replace ......,maybe
I actually did that. I ended up doing an engine rebuild. It was a broken piston skirt making the noise. Thanks for watching!