Great video. Still amazes me the amount of fiddling around and modifying to get fixtures to work given the cost of turnouts and point motors etc and the length of time products have been developing over the years.
Oh, Julian, this is such a lifesaver. Thank you! I’ve been dreading installing point motors for months. Like you I’d bought some under-track ones from Rails. I struggled with the extended pin on the first I tried to fit. Then the top part of the pin fell to the very dusty wooden floorboards in my shed, never to be found again. I’ve broken one of the clips for one of the Peco twistlock motors I bought. And now I have some Seep solenoid ones which I wasn’t looking forward to crawling under the baseboards to install. All I need now, thanks to this very helpful video, is a Dremel. Progress on the Project B uplift also looking very impressive.
Very interesting method of installing point motors. I chose to use the Hornby surface point motors to avoid going under the baseboards but your system seems to work well. Thanks for sharing Julian. Roy.
I am using servo motors controlled by Megapoints control boards. The servos can be mounted underneath using their brackets, or on top of the baseboard where they are hidden inside lineside buildings. The servos drive a 0.6mm piano wire that can be cut to any length. I have 24 points on my layout, and six of these are top mounted as I cant access their location beneath the layout. They work great, and include for electrofrog control via relays.
Love this, i never for some reason thought of this but i imagine this would work well on my points later down the line as just need to set into the insulation board below and drill a hole for the wires. Cheers for the pointer hehe pun intended 😂
Those little point covers are handy, I have thought of similar but they will have to be punched by hand, is the peco point motor a low profile, I`ve not had to use the rails version.
Hi there ,, what a gr8 informative video and really handy tips. I just not long ago bought a train layout and is 8 x 5 and has 12 sets of points that are all motorised and all work good. It was a bit of a bargaind at $80.00 for the lot It has the same type of points and point motors on it as you are showing that are both curved and left and right and a couple of Y points as well. There is 1 thing would like to ask and that it do you think the clear plastic that you used ? Is it used just to cover the the point motor as in to stop dust and dirt and debris etc. Keep up the good work and gr8 videos there m8. I also liked and subscribed too. 😁😎 Cheers from John in Australia
Great video. Still amazes me the amount of fiddling around and modifying to get fixtures to work given the cost of turnouts and point motors etc and the length of time products have been developing over the years.
Adding point motors is on my list of jobs to do. Thanks for sharing. You've given me some great tips. Liked and subbed! Cheers, Andy
Oh, Julian, this is such a lifesaver. Thank you!
I’ve been dreading installing point motors for months. Like you I’d bought some under-track ones from Rails. I struggled with the extended pin on the first I tried to fit. Then the top part of the pin fell to the very dusty wooden floorboards in my shed, never to be found again. I’ve broken one of the clips for one of the Peco twistlock motors I bought. And now I have some Seep solenoid ones which I wasn’t looking forward to crawling under the baseboards to install. All I need now, thanks to this very helpful video, is a Dremel.
Progress on the Project B uplift also looking very impressive.
Very interesting method of installing point motors. I chose to use the Hornby surface point motors to avoid going under the baseboards but your system seems to work well. Thanks for sharing Julian. Roy.
A great 'how to' Julian!!! Thanks for sharing this video! Cheers Onno.
Such an easy way of installing and wiring a point. Love it.
Neato Julian, and shows the benefits of your modular approach to baseboard construction. All in all, one to save and come back to.
Good morning from the UK 🇬🇧
good video, but if no one has mentioned it-you should crimp the extention rod into the brass/copper sleeve connector.
I am using servo motors controlled by Megapoints control boards. The servos can be mounted underneath using their brackets, or on top of the baseboard where they are hidden inside lineside buildings. The servos drive a 0.6mm piano wire that can be cut to any length. I have 24 points on my layout, and six of these are top mounted as I cant access their location beneath the layout. They work great, and include for electrofrog control via relays.
Love this, i never for some reason thought of this but i imagine this would work well on my points later down the line as just need to set into the insulation board below and drill a hole for the wires. Cheers for the pointer hehe pun intended 😂
Great idea
Thanks for the idea
Nick Australia
Another great informative video
Julian, what gauge wire are you using for the frog? I take it it doesn't need to be as heavy as the pre-wired loom coming from the point itself.
Those little point covers are handy, I have thought of similar but they will have to be punched by hand, is the peco point motor a low profile, I`ve not had to use the rails version.
Hi there ,, what a gr8 informative video and really handy tips. I just not long ago bought a train layout and is 8 x 5 and has 12 sets of points that are all motorised and all work good. It was a bit of a bargaind at $80.00 for the lot
It has the same type of points and point motors on it as you are showing that are both curved and left and right and a couple of Y points as well.
There is 1 thing would like to ask and that it do you think the clear plastic that you used ? Is it used just to cover the the point motor as in to stop dust and dirt and debris etc.
Keep up the good work and gr8 videos there m8.
I also liked and subscribed too. 😁😎
Cheers from John in Australia
A small blob of araldite in the brass connector works fine.
Super glue does the trick to.
Thanks for the tip, much appreciated.