Hi Dave i'm 71 and new to railway modelling, this is the most precise video on something useful I have watched. Nice and clear, exact and and no bits missed out (like most videos i have watched). Motors are my next job so found in time, Thank You so much keep up the good work you will have hundreds of followers.
wELL DAVE i MUST SAY i HAVE ENJOYED WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS SO VERY MUCH. THEY ARE SO WELL PRODUCED, AND VERY INFORMATIVE. WISHED I HAD YOUR SKILL. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK, I WILL BE WATCHING YOUR PROGRESS WITH A PASSION.
Excellent video. I posted a link in my weekly newsletter this week as I get asked many times by customers on how to fit these type of motors. Thanks for explaining it so well .
Thanks Robert. So glad you found it easy to follow. I only wish this video was around when I started my layout, as many hours of head scratching was done until I worked it out! Cheers. Dave
Hi Dave. I'm not as flexible as you so find the fiddling underneath the boards difficult. I make a thin card template of the mounting base, with holes where the screws and the pin are to go. With the point institu slide the card underneath, position correctly (makes lining it up with the track very easy), tape the card down, remove the point then drill the holes from the top. Then mount the motor underneath the baseboard. Minimises bending and makes alignment a lot easier 👍 Great videos, very motivational.
Good one! Back in the 1980s in New Zealand I couldn’t buy mounting plates so i used to turn the tabs 90 degrees to the body and use washer head pk screws as I still do !
I like the black tack idea for holding point motor/point blades in place…i use thick double sided tape to initially hang the motor, when it works happy i put screws through
This updated video is very clear and easy to understand for a beginner One thing I asked about in your previous one was how you align a motor when the track is at an angle to the baseboard edge and remember you said to drill a small hole at the end of each sleeper then under the board it is easy to see where to position the motor square to the track above
Hi Dave - That was absolutely brilliant. I am building a large N gauge layout and have yet to lay track let alone fix my first point, so for a simple person like me that was great. I have done quite a bit of research but your video is the best by far. I have purchased a SPC Seep Point Motor Alignment Tool from SPC which makes it even easier to align the point motor underneath. No fluffing about and all the drilling is done from above. It takes into account centreing the centre pin, and not having to tape the point motor up underneath as the drill holes are already there. Make sure you purchase the right one for N or 00 gauge. I am also going to purchase the Seep GMC-PM10 as it has solder free terminals. Regards Chris
Thanks Dave, that was so well explained I think even I got it. I've never wired point motor before, but I think I might have a go this summer doing some on my layout. Take care Eddy xx
Good tips on mounting the good old PL10E. I'll try the black tack method when I come fit the PM's on my new lower fiddle yard. In the past I've used contact adhesive on the mounting plate which gives 5mins to align the motor to both the point and track. That way the motor doesn't move when you come to fit the mounting screws (which are rubbish as you said). The twin accessory switch is, I believe, easier to fit as you can actually "hear" if the switch is properly aligned by listening for a simultaneous double click as you move the point blades manually. The single accessory switch has to be perfectly aligned on an N gauge point due to the smaller tolerances compared to its OO cousin. Cheers Euan
Excellent video! You take time! If you have a thick baseboard? (mines an inch of foam and an inch of deck) and don't want to bury you motors, you can make them rotational? You need stiff piano wire 18-20swg and brass tube to suit. Lay the track first. Bend the end of the wire in a square hook with pliers to bridge the tie bar to a sleeper space. Drill a hole between the adjacent sleepers and glue in a bit of the brass tube. Trim the wire and drop it in so that if you rotate the wire the hook operates the tie bar? Bend the lower end or fashion a lever (out of old L/N pins from old plugs). Then you can use wire in tube or push rods and site the peco point motor any where? It's a good technique where the point is hard to reach, or don't want to dig a hole or you have to lay it first for alignment and don't want to move it. Peco sell a base for the motors that has a sliding out put.
Hoping to start model train hobby this really was brilliant video on points as one of many question in my mind to see how things work for for model train set up one day. thank you.
Hi, thanks. I’m really glad you found it helpful :-) I’ve other videos on points and wiring up electrofrog points etc. check them out if you need to know more. Cheers. Dave
Good tutorial Dave that was very well explained I personally think surface mounted point motors would be better because then I don’t think there would be so much work to do under the baseboards which can be very difficult at times but also when it comes to the realism side a point motor on the surface next to the point is more realistic as that is where they are placed on the real railway.
Great how to video Dave thanks very much. I am having a lot of difficulty in wiring a a point switch that incorporates a panel lights. Would you be able to do another how to video please just to show the easiest way to achieve this. Many thanks
The way you set the stage for the explanation was very interesting and instructive. I'm a newbie and this is a very helpful video. By the way, what does "frog" mean in railway terminology? Thank you very much for this excellent class.
Hi, thanks. I’m glad you found it useful. The frog is part of the real railway terminology. No idea where it comes from! If you need to know about track laying, track ballasting, weathering track, painting brick, doing scenic landscaping, laying inclines, ground cover, lineside detailing and static grassing, etc etc. I’ve lots of easy to follow videos on the channel should you need any tips or techniques. Thanks again for getting in touch. :-) Dave
Perfect timing. I have 28 to wire up on my new DCC layout. The only difference is I have set track points so no accessory switch for the frog polarity needed. You didn’t say how big the hole was through the board for the pin. My guess is 10mm. Right? Many thanks. Really appreciate your channel.
Hi Dave. Awesome video as usual. I was watching your original Peco point motor video the other day as I think it's the clearest on UA-cam. At least I've got another one I can watch now. BTW how big is the hole through the base board for the point motor pin? Just curious as if it's too small it limits the pins movement, but if its too big it will let ballast through. Sorry if I missed you saying it in the video. Cheers, Tom :)
They seem to be quieter than I remember in the early 70s! I sort of wish Peco would accept that very few people will want to attach their point motors directly to the point (because of the massive hole, as you say), and then they could re-do their moulds to get rid of the holes in the sleepers of all their points. Snipping off the ugly lugs on the end of the tie bar for attaching to surface-mounted point motors isn't too difficult, but filling in the holes in the sleepers is a pain.
Hi, many thanks for a very helpful and informative video. There is no footage in this video of your point motor AND the accessory switch fully wired up and it does not appear possible to use the sliding connectors on the wires coming to/from the switch (PL26) AND the accessory switch used to change polarity of the frog. Presumably one HAS to solder one of the two as there is not enough space for all seven sliders? Or have I completely misunderstood? Thanks - Andrew
Hi, if you check out one of my videos one how to wire up electro frog points this might cover the accessory switch in more detail, which connects directly to the bottom of the peco point motor.
Hi Dave great video, well explained. I’m wanting to use a simple momentary toggle switch to control my points. I find the PL26 a bit bulky looking and they are expensive. But the SPSD centering momentary toggle switch i bought from my local electronics shop makes the solenoid give off a horrible buzzing noise as the switch flicks momentarily before snapping back to centre. This tells me its not a passing off on off on off switch. Any idea what switch I ideally need?
I have 42 point motors to wire on my new layout, and I am dreading it. This video is extremely helpful if I want to wire a single motor (or solenoid), but none of the videos I'm searching through show how to wire up multiple motors. You could respond that I simply "repeat the process" for each motor, but I'm more concerned with "bringing them all together" to a control panel. How many can be wired together? How many CDUs do I need? Should I break the layout up into multiple control panels/banks of switches? My layout is in an 8x10 shed, in N Gauge, and whilst it's not enormous (twin track mainline through station with avoiding central line, branch terminus, a few sidings and an 8-track fiddle yard) I am a bit overwhelmed now I've come to the point motor part of it 😅
Nice to see clear waffle free instructions However I’m getting constant buzzing noise from all four point motors at once and individually. I hoped it was my test unit and installed them but accessory BUS cable also doing it Triple checked wiring NCE powercab Australia Not shorting Insulfrogs Anyone 😳
Hi Dave watched your video some time ago to see how to fit my point motors. I am using the Peco ones as in your video. They are all fitted and working fine. The one thing you didn’t cover was cutting off the excess on the extension bar. Now they are all fitted how do you recommend doing this, side cutters won’t do it as the wire is too hard. Thanks in advance Mick
Hi. I cut these after it’s installed. I have a small dremel drill/cutter. I do this a little at a time as the heat generated in the bar can get hot and start to melt the plastic around it. Failing that it’s a small hacksaw, which you’d have to do before fitting.
Hi, I’m unaware of how n gauge turnouts are wired. I suspect you don’t have to make these mods. But refer to the leaflet in with the point, or peco are usually very good with advice.
Hi Dean good video, new to dcc, just so I understand it, on the 21:45 mark, you show only the accessory wiring to the motor etc. what throws the switch? your cab control? dont see any wires going from the PL10 to throw switch on a panel.... any help would be appreciated....thanks for all the videos!
I am new to railway modelling as well and have designed a layout using Peco N Scale ST-5 type points (insulfrog I believe is the correct term)! I am baffled with wiring up the points using the PL-10E point motors together with the Peco PL-15 Micro Switcher (to control lights on a mimic board). I was doing fine watching your video until you got to the part about installing the motor on the test rig - the point motor suddenly had an extra part on the bottom and you connected wires to that which I thought you had already shown being connected to the side of the motor - now confused as I don't have that extra plate so where do my wires go? You also say that the blue wire goes to the frog - ST-5 type points have plastic frogs so where do I connect the blue wire? Sorry to be a pain as your video is the clearest I have found but obviously not clear enough for me!
Hi, I use 16/0.2 for the wiring of the point motors. I use 7/0.2 for the dropper wires and I use thicker copper multi strand (blue and brown) wires for the bus wire. This wire I get from express models, along with the brown and blue dropper wires. You can buy it by the metre. Very cheap. Cheers
Dean, can the accryessories switch that goes to the green frog, can it be used to switch signals instead of the green frog? Merry Christmas. John Robertson
The accessory switch can be used to control signals when it’s wired for that yes. It simply attaches to the bottom of the point. Sorry for the delay in reply, I just saw your comment. Cheers. Dave
Hi Dave, I have Seep PM 2 point motors on four points on my upper level track and I have a gaugemaster surface mounted point at the top of my incline and five PL-26 passing switches. Will they work the same as the Peco point motors. Although I have a 16 to 18 volt ac transformer could I use the bus wire to get the power. Thanks
Hi. Yeah I have a seep motor with built in accessory switch in a tight area on my upper section, as they are smaller than the peco ones. It works the same as the peco ones. In terms of voltage and switches. I would go above 16v , don’t want to shorten the life of the solenoid. Gaugemaster to a 12vDV/16v Ac transformer I used.
I have a separate E-Link running my Concept Accessory Decoder how would I connect them, would I just Piggyback their wiring to the point motor? Many thanks for any assistance, Matthew McGowan
I noticed when you installed it the green wire was missing how do you power the switch? The red blue and black didn’t have power running to it. I know it’s a simple question but it’s my first one. Thank you
Hi. From the point motor, take the green wire back to the - on the power connection. I use a 15v AC power supply. The red and black go from the point motor connections to a switch/lever. There are three connections on the switch. Wire one side of the switch with the black wire, wire the other side up with the red wire. The other connector on the switch goes to the positive voltage supply. This is usually the centre connection, but the switch instructions will tell you. The switch you use has to be a momentary switch, peco sell lever switches or you can get a on (off) on SPRING return toggle switch from the likes of rapid electronics for about £1. So as you flick the switch it sends a momentary pulse to one side of the point motor. It moves the point blade in one direction. If you flick the switch in the other direction it sends a momentary voltage to the other side of the point motor, making the point blade switch. If you don’t use a momentary switch then the voltage will remain powered to the point motor solenoid all the time and it will buzz and burn out. Peco gave excellent instructions on how to wire up a point motor, which comes with their product. I hope that helps.
There are three wires that come from the motor. The green wire I connect to the back of the uncontrolled voltage connections on the back of the controller (Not the connector that power the track). The other two wires, in my case the red and black go into a switch (peco or other) and from the switch to the other connector on the back of the controller. This allows the switch to flick between the red and black wires, moving the point back and forth. If you have a peco point or a peco poo t motor there is usually a diagram or leaflet in the package to tell you how to wire it. Peco may have these on their website or simple Google ‘wiring up a peco point motor’…peco have simple diagrams on there.
So If I was running the point on a dc setup would and doing how you've done with a 3 components would I just wire the solenoid to an A C output and the control switch
Yes a tiny bit of roket adhesive to the switch and glued to the underside of the motor. If it needs replaced/removed later it can be detached without too much issue.
Hi. The motors work on a 15/16v ac voltage. As per peco instructions. A CDU can be inserted to give an additional ‘kick’. You only need one for numerous point motors. They do work. I used them until I upgraded to using my Ecos/dcc concepts accessory decoders (which have them built in).
@@DeanPark i am n gauge I will use rail master Elite and he same system u use for controlling points by switch or DCC controller so I don’t need. Is there a bette motor for electro frog points that have polarity built in. . I have insul points(not installed or laied any track) as old horny kits came with them. I can’t solder so at every join I will use wired fish plates. For the point fish plates I see the frog is plastic should I use standered fish plates on point or the wired ones(use to give better connection to all sections of track. Can I attach a polarity wire with out solder. Do peco make polarity point motets as one.
Lastly can you playlist your point motor videos maybe do some more. Maybe do a playlist for 12-15 year olds make a easy but good layout get them easy to understand how to do things but use connectors wired track, frack splicers for health saftey. It will make an interesting layout for kids that when they grow up can be expand to an adult scenic layout from toy to model (unlike hornby track mats) to keep them in the sport and not get board of the hobby. You would be good at that. Show what buildings to get when to custom to there likes ie use building A or B hear or signal type A or B to fit era regain. Could see it to parents maybe make a business out of it for teens And use there computer stills maybe for raspberry pi control or understand of DCC and how to use it better than we can. Other ideas have compiled like metcalf do simple kits that fit same footprint as bigger ones so they can swop it out later for w more complex one or scale scenes do it but need be able to use scissor. Use tank or dmu or voyager style trains for full length and so when older they heave know they have w complete train not part( not like hornby do) get metcalf to make some platforms diff styles like tops brick work and ends(slop narrow or flat ends) that are like the station kits read cut u just have to glue together. And will be correct length for train look realist and fit the layouts. Maybe a once size or couple size so a tail chaser a end to end dog bone size that can be made to diff layout designs to feel there in controle not you(again from child horny track mat days)
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #1 НАЧАЛО ПУТЕШЕСТВИЯ [Новый сезон] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/380Q7gLWGvk/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent. Except the one bit… making the correct size hole under an already installed layout, to allow for side to side movement of the solenoid pin.
Needed to watch a second time to fully understand. Thank you, so helpful.
My pleasure. I hope it was useful :-) Dave
Thank you very much for this clear tutorial. I have been scratching my head about these. Honestly the best video on UA-cam about this process. Cheers.
Hi thanks. So glad you found and understood it. Very kind of you to get in touch too :-) cheers. Dave
Thanks Dave for getting back to me regarding the electrical wiring of the layout much appreciated regards Rob
Hi Dave i'm 71 and new to railway modelling, this is the most precise video on something useful I have watched. Nice and clear, exact and and no bits missed out (like most videos i have watched). Motors are my next job so found in time, Thank You so much keep up the good work you will have hundreds of followers.
wELL DAVE i MUST SAY i HAVE ENJOYED WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS SO VERY MUCH. THEY ARE SO WELL PRODUCED, AND VERY INFORMATIVE. WISHED I HAD YOUR SKILL. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK, I WILL BE WATCHING YOUR PROGRESS WITH A PASSION.
Thanks :-)
Excellent video. I posted a link in my weekly newsletter this week as I get asked many times by customers on how to fit these type of motors. Thanks for explaining it so well .
Thanks. Really appreciate that. :-) Dave
Hi Dave just to say your videos are very clear and easy to follow i enjoyed looking at layout cheers mate regards Rob
Thanks Robert. So glad you found it easy to follow. I only wish this video was around when I started my layout, as many hours of head scratching was done until I worked it out! Cheers. Dave
Hi Dave. I'm not as flexible as you so find the fiddling underneath the boards difficult. I make a thin card template of the mounting base, with holes where the screws and the pin are to go. With the point institu slide the card underneath, position correctly (makes lining it up with the track very easy), tape the card down, remove the point then drill the holes from the top. Then mount the motor underneath the baseboard. Minimises bending and makes alignment a lot easier 👍
Great videos, very motivational.
Good idea! There’s always more than one way to do things. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Good one! Back in the 1980s in New Zealand I couldn’t buy mounting plates so i used to turn the tabs 90 degrees to the body and use washer head pk screws as I still do !
Good idea!
This is really my favourite Channel!
Thanks for your nice Videos,
it is very enlightening,
Waiting for your latest update.
Dean Park
I like the black tack idea for holding point motor/point blades in place…i use thick double sided tape to initially hang the motor, when it works happy i put screws through
A really helpful video Dave for newbies like me.
Excellent. It’s a video to refer to again and again. Not my favourite task, but one most of us do on our layouts.
This updated video is very clear and easy to understand for a beginner One thing I asked about in your previous one was how you align a motor when the track is at an angle to the baseboard edge and remember you said to drill a small hole at the end of each sleeper then under the board it is easy to see where to position the motor square to the track above
Hi Dave - That was absolutely brilliant. I am building a large N gauge layout and have yet to lay track let alone fix my first point, so for a simple person like me that was great.
I have done quite a bit of research but your video is the best by far.
I have purchased a SPC Seep Point Motor Alignment Tool from SPC which makes it even easier to align the point motor underneath.
No fluffing about and all the drilling is done from above.
It takes into account centreing the centre pin, and not having to tape the point motor up underneath as the drill holes are already there.
Make sure you purchase the right one for N or 00 gauge.
I am also going to purchase the Seep GMC-PM10
as it has solder free terminals.
Regards Chris
I also used the SPC tool on my OO gauge layout, and can recommend it.
Thanks Dave, that was so well explained I think even I got it. I've never wired point motor before, but I think I might have a go this summer doing some on my layout. Take care Eddy xx
Cheers. Glad you found it easy. Dave
A very useful guide. Thank you
An excellent and thorough tutorial. You cover all the little details that often get glossed over. Great work! Cheers from Wisconsin.
Cheers Andrew! :-)
Thanks Dave for a great tutorial easy to understand This is one for the archive to refer to over and over 👍
Cheers. That’s why I did it, as a reference to those fitting motors now and in future.
Great video David and very well explained m8 👍🏴 Keep em coming 😎
didnt know we can connect the wires without soldering now that is what i want!
Yup. No soldering min tight spots under the Baseboard! Easy job with these spade clips.
Excellent video Dave. Any chance of a tutorial on wiring slip points? After decades of mdelling they still remain a mystery to me.
Cheers, Bob
Good tips on mounting the good old PL10E. I'll try the black tack method when I come fit the PM's on my new lower fiddle yard. In the past I've used contact adhesive on the mounting plate which gives 5mins to align the motor to both the point and track. That way the motor doesn't move when you come to fit the mounting screws (which are rubbish as you said). The twin accessory switch is, I believe, easier to fit as you can actually "hear" if the switch is properly aligned by listening for a simultaneous double click as you move the point blades manually. The single accessory switch has to be perfectly aligned on an N gauge point due to the smaller tolerances compared to its OO cousin. Cheers Euan
Très beau réseau David, bravo !
Excellent video! You take time!
If you have a thick baseboard? (mines an inch of foam and an inch of deck) and don't want to bury you motors, you can make them rotational? You need stiff piano wire 18-20swg and brass tube to suit. Lay the track first. Bend the end of the wire in a square hook with pliers to bridge the tie bar to a sleeper space. Drill a hole between the adjacent sleepers and glue in a bit of the brass tube. Trim the wire and drop it in so that if you rotate the wire the hook operates the tie bar? Bend the lower end or fashion a lever (out of old L/N pins from old plugs). Then you can use wire in tube or push rods and site the peco point motor any where? It's a good technique where the point is hard to reach, or don't want to dig a hole or you have to lay it first for alignment and don't want to move it. Peco sell a base for the motors that has a sliding out put.
Brilliant, very helpful
Hi, thanks 🙏
Neatly done! Thank you Regards Stephen.
Hoping to start model train hobby this really was brilliant video on points as one of many question in my mind to see how things work for for model train set up one day. thank you.
Hi, thanks. I’m really glad you found it helpful :-) I’ve other videos on points and wiring up electrofrog points etc. check them out if you need to know more. Cheers. Dave
Good tutorial Dave that was very well explained
I personally think surface mounted point motors would be better because then I don’t think there would be so much work to do under the baseboards which can be very difficult at times but also when it comes to the realism side a point motor on the surface next to the point is more realistic as that is where they are placed on the real railway.
Thanks. Yeah but the surface mounted points are big and over scale to the real ones... it’s all down to personal preference:-) cheers. Dave.
Great how to video Dave thanks very much. I am having a lot of difficulty in wiring a a point switch that incorporates a panel lights. Would you be able to do another how to video please just to show the easiest way to achieve this. Many thanks
Fantastic video and layout !!
HC Treintje Herman from Belgium.
The way you set the stage for the explanation was very interesting and instructive. I'm a newbie and this is a very helpful video. By the way, what does "frog" mean in railway terminology? Thank you very much for this excellent class.
Hi, thanks. I’m glad you found it useful. The frog is part of the real railway terminology. No idea where it comes from!
If you need to know about track laying, track ballasting, weathering track, painting brick, doing scenic landscaping, laying inclines, ground cover, lineside detailing and static grassing, etc etc. I’ve lots of easy to follow videos on the channel should you need any tips or techniques.
Thanks again for getting in touch. :-)
Dave
Perfect timing. I have 28 to wire up on my new DCC layout. The only difference is I have set track points so no accessory switch for the frog polarity needed. You didn’t say how big the hole was through the board for the pin. My guess is 10mm. Right? Many thanks. Really appreciate your channel.
Hi, good luck with those. Yeah I used a 9.5mm drill.
Can you do a video on your storage and organisation of string as I don’t have that.
Show what boxes storage to get and all things like
Hi Dave. Awesome video as usual. I was watching your original Peco point motor video the other day as I think it's the clearest on UA-cam. At least I've got another one I can watch now. BTW how big is the hole through the base board for the point motor pin? Just curious as if it's too small it limits the pins movement, but if its too big it will let ballast through. Sorry if I missed you saying it in the video. Cheers, Tom :)
Hi. I go for a 9.5mm hole. You don’t tend to ballast right at the moving bar of the point anyway. It works fine for me. Cheers. Dave
@@DeanPark cheers Dave 👍
They seem to be quieter than I remember in the early 70s!
I sort of wish Peco would accept that very few people will want to attach their point motors directly to the point (because of the massive hole, as you say), and then they could re-do their moulds to get rid of the holes in the sleepers of all their points. Snipping off the ugly lugs on the end of the tie bar for attaching to surface-mounted point motors isn't too difficult, but filling in the holes in the sleepers is a pain.
Good points! Those end lugs get the chop!
Hi, many thanks for a very helpful and informative video. There is no footage in this video of your point motor AND the accessory switch fully wired up and it does not appear possible to use the sliding connectors on the wires coming to/from the switch (PL26) AND the accessory switch used to change polarity of the frog. Presumably one HAS to solder one of the two as there is not enough space for all seven sliders? Or have I completely misunderstood?
Thanks - Andrew
Hi, if you check out one of my videos one how to wire up electro frog points this might cover the accessory switch in more detail, which connects directly to the bottom of the peco point motor.
Hi Dave great video, well explained. I’m wanting to use a simple momentary toggle switch to control my points. I find the PL26 a bit bulky looking and they are expensive. But the SPSD centering momentary toggle switch i bought from my local electronics shop makes the solenoid give off a horrible buzzing noise as the switch flicks momentarily before snapping back to centre. This tells me its not a passing off on off on off switch. Any idea what switch I ideally need?
You need a momentary spring return switch.
Hi Dave,
Brilliant video. Can you surface mount those motors ?
Duncan.
Hi Dave,
this has been a great help. Any tips on how to avoid the accessory switch pins getting in the way of the point motor pins?
I have 42 point motors to wire on my new layout, and I am dreading it.
This video is extremely helpful if I want to wire a single motor (or solenoid), but none of the videos I'm searching through show how to wire up multiple motors. You could respond that I simply "repeat the process" for each motor, but I'm more concerned with "bringing them all together" to a control panel. How many can be wired together? How many CDUs do I need? Should I break the layout up into multiple control panels/banks of switches?
My layout is in an 8x10 shed, in N Gauge, and whilst it's not enormous (twin track mainline through station with avoiding central line, branch terminus, a few sidings and an 8-track fiddle yard) I am a bit overwhelmed now I've come to the point motor part of it 😅
Nice to see clear waffle free instructions
However I’m getting constant buzzing noise from all four point motors at once and individually. I hoped it was my test unit and installed them but accessory BUS cable also doing it
Triple checked wiring
NCE powercab
Australia
Not shorting
Insulfrogs
Anyone 😳
Is it a passing contact switch you have? As you need that and not a on off switch or you’ll get buzzing from the solenoids…that’s them burning out!
I’ve gone all this time thinking you were actually Neil Oliver from Coast.
Lol!!
Hi Dave watched your video some time ago to see how to fit my point motors. I am using the Peco ones as in your video. They are all fitted and working fine. The one thing you didn’t cover was cutting off the excess on the extension bar. Now they are all fitted how do you recommend doing this, side cutters won’t do it as the wire is too hard. Thanks in advance Mick
Hi. I cut these after it’s installed. I have a small dremel drill/cutter. I do this a little at a time as the heat generated in the bar can get hot and start to melt the plastic around it.
Failing that it’s a small hacksaw, which you’d have to do before fitting.
Just come across this video, only problem its in OO gauge how do it work in N Gauge
Hi, I’m unaware of how n gauge turnouts are wired. I suspect you don’t have to make these mods. But refer to the leaflet in with the point, or peco are usually very good with advice.
if i drill 2 small holes either side of the tie bar from above. Will that give me the alignment underneath?
IS THEIR A WAY I CAN WIRE 2 POINTS WITH 1 SWITCH SO THEY WORK IN UNISON LIKE ON A PASSING LOOP?
I would think so yes. :-)
Should have a center off spring loaded switch so you don't burn out the pL10
I do. But the peco lever switches are designed for the points as they as a passing contact.
Hi Dean good video, new to dcc, just so I understand it, on the 21:45 mark, you show only the accessory wiring to the motor etc. what throws the switch? your cab control? dont see any wires going from the PL10 to throw switch on a panel.... any help would be appreciated....thanks for all the videos!
Yes the wires from the pl10e go to the controller/switch. Easy to wire up, the Motors have easy to follow instructions in them too :-)
Excellent demo, what do you suggest using to reduce the length of the point motor pin.
I use a dremel. Cut a little bit at a time. If you try to cut it with the dremel in one go the heat from the network pin can start to melt the point!
I am new to railway modelling as well and have designed a layout using Peco N Scale ST-5 type points (insulfrog I believe is the correct term)! I am baffled with wiring up the points using the PL-10E point motors together with the Peco PL-15 Micro Switcher (to control lights on a mimic board).
I was doing fine watching your video until you got to the part about installing the motor on the test rig - the point motor suddenly had an extra part on the bottom and you connected wires to that which I thought you had already shown being connected to the side of the motor - now confused as I don't have that extra plate so where do my wires go? You also say that the blue wire goes to the frog - ST-5 type points have plastic frogs so where do I connect the blue wire?
Sorry to be a pain as your video is the clearest I have found but obviously not clear enough for me!
Hi Dave could you please advise me what size wire to use for wiring up the electrical side of the layout regards Rob
Hi, I use 16/0.2 for the wiring of the point motors. I use 7/0.2 for the dropper wires and I use thicker copper multi strand (blue and brown) wires for the bus wire. This wire I get from express models, along with the brown and blue dropper wires. You can buy it by the metre. Very cheap.
Cheers
You neglected to mention the trimming of the Pin, so it's flush with the sleepers.
That’s pretty much common sense. I feel if I had to point everything out I’d be insulting some peoples intelligence.
Dean, can the accryessories switch that goes to the green frog, can it be used to switch signals instead of the green frog? Merry Christmas. John Robertson
The accessory switch can be used to control signals when it’s wired for that yes. It simply attaches to the bottom of the point. Sorry for the delay in reply, I just saw your comment. Cheers. Dave
Hi Dave, I have Seep PM 2 point motors on four points on my upper level track and I have a gaugemaster surface mounted point at the top of my incline and five PL-26 passing switches. Will they work the same as the Peco point motors. Although I have a 16 to 18 volt ac transformer could I use the bus wire to get the power. Thanks
Hi. Yeah I have a seep motor with built in accessory switch in a tight area on my upper section, as they are smaller than the peco ones.
It works the same as the peco ones. In terms of voltage and switches. I would go above 16v , don’t want to shorten the life of the solenoid. Gaugemaster to a 12vDV/16v Ac transformer I used.
Thanks for your reply Dave, and your videos are very helpful and informative 👍
I have a separate E-Link running my Concept Accessory Decoder how would I connect them, would I just Piggyback their wiring to the point motor? Many thanks for any assistance,
Matthew McGowan
The point motors go into the dcc concepts accessory decoders. ?
@@DeanPark Thank you for your reply. Your question mark would indicate you do not think this is correct, am I doing something wrong?
Cheers Matthew
I noticed when you installed it the green wire was missing how do you power the switch? The red blue and black didn’t have power running to it. I know it’s a simple question but it’s my first one. Thank you
Hi.
From the point motor, take the green wire back to the - on the power connection.
I use a 15v AC power supply.
The red and black go from the point motor connections to a switch/lever. There are three connections on the switch.
Wire one side of the switch with the black wire, wire the other side up with the red wire. The other connector on the switch goes to the positive voltage supply. This is usually the centre connection, but the switch instructions will tell you.
The switch you use has to be a momentary switch, peco sell lever switches or you can get a on (off) on SPRING return toggle switch from the likes of rapid electronics for about £1.
So as you flick the switch it sends a momentary pulse to one side of the point motor. It moves the point blade in one direction. If you flick the switch in the other direction it sends a momentary voltage to the other side of the point motor, making the point blade switch.
If you don’t use a momentary switch then the voltage will remain powered to the point motor solenoid all the time and it will buzz and burn out.
Peco gave excellent instructions on how to wire up a point motor, which comes with their product.
I hope that helps.
Thank you so much for the help!!
How do you wire the switch and the motor to the 16v AC
There are three wires that come from the motor. The green wire I connect to the back of the uncontrolled voltage connections on the back of the controller (Not the connector that power the track).
The other two wires, in my case the red and black go into a switch (peco or other) and from the switch to the other connector on the back of the controller. This allows the switch to flick between the red and black wires, moving the point back and forth.
If you have a peco point or a peco poo t motor there is usually a diagram or leaflet in the package to tell you how to wire it. Peco may have these on their website or simple Google ‘wiring up a peco point motor’…peco have simple diagrams on there.
If you are using foam are you able to extend or change the wire to reach the switch? Really enjoy your videos!
Hi, cheers. Yeah the pin coming from the solenoid can be cut to the desired length. The foam shouldnt be an issue. Dave
So If I was running the point on a dc setup would and doing how you've done with a 3 components would I just wire the solenoid to an A C output and the control switch
Hi, yeah the solenoid can be used on 15v ac using the switches of your choice.
@Dean Park Model Railway awsome learning both dc and dcc as my dad is running a dc setup In Somerset and I'm going to set up on dcc but help my dad
Nice one Dave. Did you say that you super glued the peco frog switch onto the point? Cheers Stevie.
Yes a tiny bit of roket adhesive to the switch and glued to the underside of the motor. If it needs replaced/removed later it can be detached without too much issue.
Thanks what about a CDU was told to use dc or DCC as it can damage the Motor
Hi. The motors work on a 15/16v ac voltage. As per peco instructions.
A CDU can be inserted to give an additional ‘kick’. You only need one for numerous point motors. They do work. I used them until I upgraded to using my Ecos/dcc concepts accessory decoders (which have them built in).
@@DeanPark i am n gauge I will use rail master Elite and he same system u use for controlling points by switch or DCC controller so I don’t need.
Is there a bette motor for electro frog points that have polarity built in. . I have insul points(not installed or laied any track) as old horny kits came with them.
I can’t solder so at every join I will use wired fish plates.
For the point fish plates I see the frog is plastic should I use standered fish plates on point or the wired ones(use to give better connection to all sections of track.
Can I attach a polarity wire with out solder.
Do peco make polarity point motets as one.
Lastly can you playlist your point motor videos maybe do some more.
Maybe do a playlist for 12-15 year olds make a easy but good layout get them easy to understand how to do things but use connectors wired track, frack splicers for health saftey. It will make an interesting layout for kids that when they grow up can be expand to an adult scenic layout from toy to model (unlike hornby track mats) to keep them in the sport and not get board of the hobby.
You would be good at that.
Show what buildings to get when to custom to there likes ie use building A or B hear or signal type A or B to fit era regain.
Could see it to parents maybe make a business out of it for teens And use there computer stills maybe for raspberry pi control or understand of DCC and how to use it better than we can.
Other ideas have compiled like metcalf do simple kits that fit same footprint as bigger ones so they can swop it out later for w more complex one or scale scenes do it but need be able to use scissor.
Use tank or dmu or voyager style trains for full length and so when older they heave know they have w complete train not part( not like hornby do) get metcalf to make some platforms diff styles like tops brick work and ends(slop narrow or flat ends) that are like the station kits read cut u just have to glue together. And will be correct length for train look realist and fit the layouts. Maybe a once size or couple size so a tail chaser a end to end dog bone size that can be made to diff layout designs to feel there in controle not you(again from child horny track mat days)
Festiniog railway