How to Replace a Trailing Arm and Rear Control Arm Bushing on a Volvo 240
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2020
- I've got cameras to pay and Volvos to feed; support the channel on Patreon: / longbowmedia
How to Replace a Trailing Arm and Rear Control Arm Bushing on a Volvo 240
You will need tool 5078 & 5079 or equivalent.
You can buy tool 5078 here, but they do not sell retainer 5079:
www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts...
There is a fellow selling a home made version of 5078 and 5079 on Turbobricks:
www.forums.turbobricks.com/sho...
The trailing arm I purchased was an aftermarket made by MTC and came with the front/leading bushing pre-installed.
I coated it with rustoleum and then truck bed liner to prevent future rust.
#HowTo #Tutorial #diy #Mechanic #Volvo #Volvo240 - Авто та транспорт
Best video yet on this topic. Excellent, thank you!
I have had the parts for this including the tool sitting on my shelf for 5 years! This will be the year of doing, as I am tired of the clunks. Thank you for the video!
This is an unbelievably well-made repair video
Thank you for making this video. It's concise and to the point. I just did this job after making the tool. I messed up and didn't grind the push end of the tool enough and got it stuck in the axle ear. Many cutting blades later it finally came out. Definitely not the easiest job in the world but after doing it once the next time, if ever I'll know the little tricks. Thank you for all the help and I really appreciate these videos.
I've done several of these in the past few years and it's a total gamble whether or not it's easy as pie or hair pulling agony. Got to love that New York road salt, haha.
@@LongbowMedia Using an impact to remove the bushing made all the difference. That coupled with lots of PB blaster and it came right out...well only if I ground down the other end of the tool correctly, haha. All in all. It's not the worst job but after doing it once and learning from mistakes it will be a lot easier in the future!
Great video, thanks. Just finished this. Quite rusty on mine. Banging around the ears with hammer and penetrating lube helps. Regular bolt/nut got stripped. So got 1/2'" diameter grade 8 fine thread (pitch 20) bolt/nut. I didn't have the Volvo tool so made my own as seen in some of the other videos on this subject. The mechanical advantage of the fine thread and the hardened metal (and greasing the threads) did the trick.
Have made a start on this job, it’s a right pain in the butt. Easiest way of removing the old. Bushings I found was to drill out the rubber and remove the middle metal sleeve then collapse the outer sleeve with cold chisel and hammer took about 20 mins per side. The night mare I am having is that the replacements just won’t go in. Yours slipped in easily until it hit the second ear. The front end bushes are proving even more difficult
I just did the trailing arm bushings on my '82; they came out, easy-as-pie!
Quite happy I didn't have to relive the experience from the '90.
My '82 hasn't had exposure to road salt in the Winter, which may explain why it was so easy.
Has anyone tried cutting out the rear trailing arm bushing and knocking out the excess on the ears with a support brace in the middle? I feel like this is possible with a reciprocating saw, a lot of torching plus a hack saw for the rim of the bushing which is galvanized steel by carefully cutting just shy of the ears in two places and punching out the rest... thoughts and comets?
Great video dude, very informative!
I just finished these on my 92 wagon- replacing with BNE bushings… The BNE bushings push almost all the way through with your hand- very easy. Bolts and washers from McMaster- fine thread Grade 8 is key- well greased- pushed out the originals with ease- not a single threading issue for both off and on. I put deep creep over everything for the two days prior.BNE bushings are really not much different smacking rough roads- I did notice I could hear my aging rear rotors more and a bit more noise from the transmission
I have a 940 and I am having trouble finding the arms or even the rear bushings. Any suggestions.
@@desmo316mrvolvo5 have you checked out VP Autoparts?
I don't think they make the tool any more. Built my own. It indeed took 6 hours and an additional 3 to do this job. Yes 9 hours and I already had the rear end pulled to swap out. Lotsa lube. ALOT of cussing and you'll get it. Just don't expect this to be a fast easy job. It's not going to be. Good luck y'all.
I made a tool out of 2" pipe fittings and a high tensile bolt ,i broke the bolt then spent hours beating the crap out of the bush until it came out! The second one was easier the inner part and rubber just fell out and i managed to fold the outside of the bush inwards enough to shift it .Unfortunately just having one car you cannot just go to the shops for parts and this was in 2003 there wasn't much on Ebay either! I miss my Volvo i couldnt source a bonnet and have it sent to me less than the value of the car so it was scrapped 😢
Thks for the video ! Where could I buy this tool please! Pus the blue sway bar
Can you share the link on how to get the tool?
If you use a grade 8 bolt instead of allthread ( grade 2?) It won't warp and can handle a lot more force
Thanks for the advice!
I just made a tool for this. After watching you I'm almost afraid. I will loose my mind wrenching for 6 hours just on one! I'll let you know how it goes....
Hopefully it'll be easier. I'm not sure if my bushings were just really stuck in the housings or if my experience is average for this repair.
Where can i find the tool?
Links for the tools can be found in the video description.
use grade 8 or higher threaded rod!!
Thanks for the advice!
Those are bolts; not screws.
Thank you for the video. This looks like the job from hell! Maybe I’ll sell the car instead. Thank you.
Crush It, lol. Honestly, it depends on the condition of the car. The old bushing came out in a matter of minutes on my '82, which has no rust. The car in the video is used in the Winter, so I assume that contributed to the difficulty in removal.