Most Common Problems: 1997 - 2001 Honda CRV RD1 RD2
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- Опубліковано 29 лис 2024
- In this episode, I cover the most common issues I see on the 1st generation Honda Crv's that come through my shop.
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I have owned a 98 CRV since it was new, a common problem I have had is that the electronic air control valve bolted to the back of the intake manifold becomes fouled, causing rough idle. It needs to be cleaned with brake cleaner every 10,000 miles or so. Keeps the car idling smooth.
I'm thinking I need to do this because I had surging idle with IACV DTC for a second.
Every 10k miles sounds like over kill lol maybe once a year🤷♂️🤔
@Danny Martinez well every 10k miles is once a year for a lot of people
@@jacobgillean7129 I never had issue bruh
@Danny Martinez same here. But my friend has had that issue on one of his crvs and his del sol
I'm gonna buy my first CR-V tomorrow. 1998 with 85,000 miles. This video help me a lot
Dang! Low miles!!!
Nice. I recently bought a 1999 LX with 58,633 from a little old lady neighbor. I had a 2001 LxX that I had bought brand new. Your videos are the best.
Did you get it ? How much did you pay? I'm going to see a 1997 someone is selling for $2,900
Yes ! Nice low miles!
*1999 CR-V EX, 267K miles two years ago the a/c compressor went (part $168/ + $120 install) and charge, 2 rear links and the cruise control does not work, the clock in the center of the console doesn't work and I had to replace the door pull latch drivers side, $11 for the part and about 20 mins of my time. That's it. Best car I ever owned.*
wow thats awesome! just got a 2004 crv 170k in immaculate condition and i mean immaculate! hope to see it get to the 267k
The clock didn't work in mine when I first bought it. I took it out, disassembled it and followed a tutorial on here to reflow solder. Worked like a charm. Just be careful when removing it from the dash as the dash is soft and likes to crack when leveraged against. :)
@@kirleyq1394Thanks!
@@gailmrutland6508See video: Honda Cruise Control Fix With A Penny_ DIY Jeff
I am not sure, but the above YT video MAY be the fix your cruise control issue.
And read the comments section afterwards, because there's an adjustment. See 5th comment down, made by @itzmrfizz
@@kirleyq1394mine dont work either
I inherited a first-generation 98 manual CRV, and everything you've mentioned is exactly what's wrong with it right now 🤣 awesome vid dude!!
Look up gene Kim n Robert breaker on UA-cam
98 5 speed with 362k. Thankfully fixed nearly everything listed here already.
Same here - these cars rock!
I live in South Africa and own a 98. Most issues you mention I have dealt with. One issue that there was with mine is on the ignition switch. There is a small harness about 4 inches long that connects the ignition to the wiring harness. The ignition wire fails, causing the car to cut out while driving, and you have to restart. In the beginning it happens intermittently, but get to a point where you start the car and it dies immediately, and to replace it costs a small fortune in my country. I solved the problem by brigding the ACC switch and the ignition switch with a small piece of wire. This was 9 years ago and never had problems again. Only drawback, when you switch the car on at ACC the dash lights up. Hope the advice helps someone
I swapped the rear diff for the unit from the 2008-11 Element, and it makes a huge difference! Drives much more like a car, the original diff makes it feel like a heavy truck, even though it's a unibody.
I have a CRV from 99, 147 hp, and i'm interested.
Besides the quieter move how about the power ?
How difficult is to replace the diff ? Does it fit ?
@@adihus67 It's not hard to replace the diff, it's very accessible. The power feels much better, it completely changes the driving feel of the CR-V, feels like a nimble car instead of a truck, even on the snow. It's an exact fit because they used the same casing as the original unit, which makes sourcing one difficult, they only way to tell which one has the upgrade is by model year.
I didn't notice any difference in noise between the new and old diff, but neither seems loud
Just FYI on the passenger side water on the floor. I have dealt with this issue on a few of them. On the roof there is a black strip that runs from the windshield to the rear window. There is a body seam under that trim and the sealant cracks. The water enters the body seam, runs down the a-piller then behind the dash and onto the floor.
I'll definitely check that out as I have one here now with that problem
I also have the same problem
A cruddy door seal will also cause a "leak" onto the front passenger floor.
currently I need advice how to deal with mines I have the 1998 model with sunroof and when rain fall heavy both passanger and driver side water on the flooring please what cause this really need to get this sought out soon as possible. could it be the sunroof rubber need changing if so where can I source the rubber online to purchase. Help anyone please how to deal with this problem.
How would you fix that?
My 2001 manual 5 speed in newly painted Milano red will hit 300K soon. I do all maintenance myself & it runs like a dream. I've experienced about half the issues you list & some you haven't. The last part I replaced was a door lock actuator. Those $9 aftermarket actuators are junk! My CRV is only the 2nd car I've ever owned & I just turned 60 yrs old. My last car was a Mazda RX7. Only Japanese.
Nice! We have 2 '93 rx7s
I saw a bright red 2001 recently. Couldn’t believe how nice the new paint job was. Did you have a chain outfit do the work or local shop?
@@gomertube Went to Maaco. Filled any dents myself to save money. $1300. I was told I didn't need their premium paint job. No orange peel & damn looks brand new.
@@darrylstevens2556 Thanks, man.
Great informational video. Was able to fix the clock in my old first gen with a $10 sottering iron. Only issue i had for the 30,000 miles of ownership i had was a sticky thermostat. Sold it to a good friend with over 300,000 miles on the odo and its still going strong
I've fixed a couple clocks over the years. I dont even bother with them now
Huh?
I tried to fix my clock with a solidering iron, I plugged it in, came on for 2 seconds and went back out.😐
I tried to solder as much as I can but couldn't get under a circuit board plate..the plate is like glued on.
For the clock I bought.a LED kit on Amazon for about $10 that fits inside the existing case. No battery required if you hook it up to the exiting car battery wiring. Voltage divider (2 resistors) will reduce the voltage down to under 4 V. All the old clock components get tossed.
@Darryl Stevens can you please link me to the led kit you used? Also tried to solder two diff oem clocks, works intermittently. Seems like the problem is in the wiring harness which i’d rather not deal with. Clock seems to work when moving harness in diff positions
@@druf. try this you tube video. I did not use the supplied battery though & instead connected to my car battery but dropped the voltage down to under 5V using 2 resistors.
ua-cam.com/video/_DfmCX9mzDw/v-deo.html
I have a 99 and I have had almost all of these issues. We’re just working on the door wiring now 😅 love her
Thanks for the vid. I love my 1st Gen CRV. I do have some issues but for the most part, these cars are tanks. A true testament to Japanese quality cars when they were still made in Japan.
I love them man
@@hondaresource Quick question for you, a while back I had an issue with the transmission slipping. (I had the transmission rebuild but still giving me problems, diff issue) .What is your recommendation when it comes to transmission and giving problems on this gen 1 Vs. Do you look for a wrecked one and swap it? (but I am afraid I am just buying time before it happens again). What's your take on this? I know the gen 1 Vs are notorious to have transmission issues. Thanks in advance for the comment on my question. And awesome content on the channel. You got a new subcriber here. :)
@@itsjiraheta I had the 2 trans oil sending units replaced and the trans goes good now....only issue is I get a small clunk when going into 2 nd gear....but I'm having trouble passing emissions because it still trigger's the check engine light....The Tork converter ......I'm looking to get a used trans on eBay or Junkyard.....then having it installed.....But common problem......
@@SaulnowPaul77722 Thanks for the info. I just hit 200k. Doing a lot of work on it. I went to a junkyard and got me some some working selenoids. I hope that helps me. Doing a transmission flush too. Ill share my findings. But, I have heard the same thing. That tends to be a common problem. Thanks for the reply.
I have 1997 Japanese RHD! Love my little Beeden! I am a mail carrier in the north. AWD handles snow like a champ!!!
You are BRILLIANT !! ❗Thank you for all your video's. I in past years all I have owned are older Honda CRV's. I don't want to own anything else.
Not sure what would cause a smell
Have you had any problems with your automatic transmission if so can I ask you a question I have a 2000 CRV $204,000 MI....
The only thing more quirky than a CRV, is a CRV owner.
The automatic transmission models often experience a shift flare when shifting into 3rd gear and a shudder during deceleration. The driver’s side window motor tends to weaken over time, causing the window to roll up slowly. The ignition lock cylinder can also bind, usually due to metal powder from the worn-down key accumulating in the cylinder. Blowing it out with compressed air worked for me.
Additionally, the driver’s side power door lock may start making a buzzing noise and eventually stop locking the door. I cleared out the dust from the lock assembly, and it’s been functioning well for the last 10 years. Another common issue is the muffler-to-intermediate pipe connection breaking due to rust.
These are a few extra things that weren’t mentioned in the video.
just bought my first car and it was a 2001 honda cr-v thanks for the video i learned a lot
Awesome
I recently acquired an 01' V and it had a burnt Cyl 3 exhaust valve. JDM B20B. Pulled the head. Lapped valves. Replaced burnt valve and seals. Installed and it runs great but seems to be consuming a ton of oil. Think I've got bad or stuck rings. It also does this super weird thing where it starts great cold but when warm it long cranks and barely sputters to life. I'm currently chasing that issue. And per your valve lash vid, lash is spot on. I really took my time with that so I don't think that's the issues. 175 miles so far in this rebuild. 😊
Completely right about working in the rust... Did my 99 crv's front suspension recently and the driver side came off okay, passenger side every second bolt needed to be drilled out or cut through. I can say from personal experience, a grinder doesn't nicely fit where most those bolts are and cutting through suspension components is a hell of a lot of work lol. At least I have a sweet CRV now though I suppose...
Thank you for all the valuable info. The one serious design fault that has bothered me is how the rear tailgate works. It is instinctive to just go straight for the handle on the tailgate, if you dont know to first lift up the glass. Obviously, as the owner, it is not a problem, but generally when someone else opens the back, they just open the tailgate, so that the glass gets forced up and drops again.... and then, if they try to close the tailgate, it will just break the glass. The printed warning is difficult to see, and pretty useless.
The other irritating issue that I have noticed, - my CRV has the built in roof racks that run above the doors. Pretty useless compared to those that run perpendicular over the roof, and also no sensible way to tie ropes.... but the worst issue is that there is a gutter to collect rain water that runs under the roof rack, and there is a post just above the front door, so when it has been raining, and the roof is wet, when you brake, all the water runs forward, hits that post and then pours down the window.... if the window is open, it pours down onto the driver - happens to me often, and I curse myself for not anticipating it.
They fixed it with the 2nd gen. 😂
Great video man love your videos on these v's. You and couple other people i follow on the internet saved me lots of money learning how to repair things. I really appreciate it. Keep up the great work!!
Awesome man, I'm happy to have you here
@@hondaresource Je suis réparateur au Togo Badou Wawa La boite automatique PNRD21Sa déplace lentement pas de force
Hey thanks for the video, I have a 01 crv and I bought it about 2 years ago and I love it even with all the millage "230" it's still running solid but it's doing something that I don't know what it is, ans what it's doing is that the engine stops for no reason even when I'm driving in the middle of the road, then I Have to pull over and let it rest for 15 minutes and then I cracked and it's back to life and it's doing it more and more, I think it's a sensor or gas pump I don't know,
Either main relay or distributor 99.9%
Full distributor or maybe if its hot out vapor lock, weak fuel pump.
Did the same & it was the relay switch
I’m having the same issues. I’m about to change the main relay today and see if it fixes it. Knock on wood! Will update if it fixes it
@@adamtjapkes7804 did it work ?
wow the timing on this video is great for me... just now noticed a significant amount of moisture green mold under my mats after 17 years of having this car. it's always stayed dry until recently after we moved from our place that had a covered carport.
I hope you get it fixed!
I bought mine with a valve seat issue, I had a machine shop fix it and has been great since, I did the oilpan updated gasket when I had the cylinder head off, I'm sure mine needs the front swaybar links and change rear diff pump fluid, great little car with it's own table.
Impressed, pretty much nailed all the challenges of owning a much beloved first gen CRV. Thanks
I just had all the frame bushings renewed in my 1st-gen CR-V - MUCH quieter now. Also had the door wiring problem - had the dealership do all the soldering - pretty good job - still works.
You are spot on Sir…have had most of these problems…still a tough little car
I was wondering where that leak was coming from. Thank you for the great info.
In my '01 it's not a leak as such but a dirty, cruddy door seal that directs water into the car. The seal has a fold that has to be opened up and cleaned out. I use the car key because it's pointed but blunt and won't puncture the rubber.
thank you lord for this channel, video, and comment section!
Welcome!
Just did a boatload of work to mine, including engine swap, most of the suspension replaced. just had one horn go out, which killed the brake lights, etc. Fixed that, and the rear washer. The only thing left is the Cruise control, which used to work and a front end alignment.
I bought my '98 CRV in March of that year and it currently has a little over 292k miles under her belt so I'm coming from a place of experience. I've found checking/adjusting the valve clearance every 30k miles to be overkill. I slowly kept extending the intervals to see if it made any difference, I now do it every 50k miles and even at that interval I usually only have to adjust several exhaust valves to the loose side of specs. Last year I replaced the original lower ball joints with the Proforged brand which I've had good luck with when I replaced the outer tie rod ends around five years ago. Another thing to watch is the condition of the rear trailing arm bushings which I replaced last year as well. Great video!
Awesome, yeah I was just going off what Honda recommends
I’m having the worst trouble with my 2000 Honda CR-V manual. About 4 or 5 months ago, it started stalling at idle and it idled a little rough. About 3 months ago it started stalling why I was driving it. I bought an Ancel OBD2 and it would throw random codes. One day it would say O2 sensor (upstream), then P1399, P0300, and P0301-304 (all cylinders misfiring). One single time it threw P0505 (idle control system), and P0122 (TPS switch A circuit low). There was no rhyme or reason to it, the codes would be here today and gone tomorrow, replaced by a different code. The short term fuel trim was all over the place at idle (-7.0 to -17.6). I checked every single vacuum line for vacuum leak, with an entire can of brake cleaner, but nothing.
We have replaced, O2 sensor, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, distributor (with new cam sensor), TPS,
and probably half a dozen other things that I can’t remember at the moment.
We drove it to my mechanics, I would only make it a few miles and it would stall. I had to wait 15 minutes, without ever trying to crank it, before it would crank again and go another few more miles. On the last 10 miles, I got in behind a person driving 35mph and it never stalled again, which honestly had me baffled. Anyway he put it in his Snap-on machine and it came up “Temporary Code List, DE0604H/1455032, Refresh To OEM.” So he’s at a loss as well.
Ok, after writing a book about it (sorry about that), the only thing that I believe that can be it is the ECU/ECM.
My husband says that the only thing it needs now is a match in the gas tank. 😒😂
Have you ever experience anything this mysterious with a first Gen CR-V, or am I just having bad luck?
Sandra I'm having the same problem. Did you solve yours? If so please let me know. Thanks
I have a 2000 lx 5 speed grey but no arm rest on the front seats
I am 72 . live in Argentina..but I am ready to buy ..I want to say thank you for you generosity sharing your knowledge...thank you.
Glad I could help. Best of luck with your CRV
Great content, man! You're one of very the few relatable content creators on this topic! I'm heavily contemplating on getting a Gen 1 2000/2001 CRV -- can you talk on their 20+ year old automatic transmission? What to look for before buying, it's reliability and it's maintenance? The local buy & sell groups seem to sell the AT (automatic transmission) at a much affordable price than the MTs, buy Im quite wary of the AT's possible issues and upkeep -- especially on a 20+ year old Honda. I've never had a AT vehicle ever, but I'm so tempted to get one on a gen 1 CRV! Keep the informative content coming, and thank you!
generally they are pretty solid. The auto will most likely fail before the manual.
Have an issue with engine skipping when air conditioning clutch kicks in... what's the fix?
I have a 99 CR-V My door wire harness was pinched BAD. 22 WIRES going to the door!. I spliced in a foot of new wires in between....44 connections! Luckily, I was a car audio installer in a previous decade, so it was more pain in the neck than anything else. I'm hoping to install 2 inch spacers soon, and get my baby BACK on the road! The guy that I bought the car from had let a ball joint go for a long time, and it made a seal go in my steering rack, with an endless drip. I'm replacing THAT too. I don't consider that a "common" problem.
Replaced those noisy tie rod links on my 01 with 130000 miles on it today only problem I’ve had is the clock doesn’t work
Thanks. very clear filming of under the car and front end. Crv is a good car but this is the first time I have had this kind of car (2002 crv) which you can remove oil filter by turning the poassanger wheel to the right and you see the oil filter, just newly I found this by myself , otherwise is very hard to remove oil filter from under the car!
Bro you forgot to mention the biggest problem, how cooked the owners are 😂😂. Seam seal in the roof channels and firewall near the cowl can split and leak ussualy after cleaning dirt and grime away.... fun times. Good video dude, much love from new Zealand
Thank you man
This is exactly my problem!! Water leak on drivers side somewhere up near the firewall. And there’s zero info on that. All kinds of info on the passenger side leak but never on the drivers side. Great video. Thank you for taking the time to make these vids on the first gens!!!
I agree with you jay bilawchuk !!! I have a leak on the drivers side too. So annoying!!!
The alternator is giving me issues.
40 amp option fuse u nder hood of 98 Honda crv i pulled out and accidentally dropped it nto area under fuse box. cant see or get to.
Thank you so much for this video! Possible there's a little differential chatter in the front? I have that chatter on mine but it seems to be coming from the front. My model is manual transmission if it makes a difference.
I had my valves adjusted on a '99 CR-V in Canda, and it costed $415.xx CND tax in. I supplied the valve cover/spark plug ring gaskets. I looked under the hood and noticed that it didn't even look different, and I had a certain zip tie holding my ignition wires in place and my ground wire looked the same last time I close the hood and (just did an oil change myself). Should I be suspect?
I'm getting infected with the itch to buy one of these to compliment my GE Fit Sport and I saw one locally on the classifieds for $1500. Now that price for Puerto Rico is a red flag already, but the ad mentions that the car has a "bad" water pump. Is that something I should just walk away from because of a greater issue(head gasket?) or something a timing belt kit can cure? Great video and thanks for sharing!
I just bought one really cheap and it literally has everything you explained. 😂😂😂 not more not less. I got the clock working for a minute but it failed again.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great channel! Just got a 2001 for my grandson first car. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Awesome, I hope he enjoys it!
Whats the difference between the various trims (LX, EX, SE)? I have a 2000 CRV but can't figure out which trim it is.
From what I know SE model is the fully loaded one
Like all the black bumpers and plastics are painted to match the rest of the crv
ua-cam.com/video/2mQHSYvdhig/v-deo.html I cover the differences in the trims in this video
If your handles/mirrors are black it’s an LX. If your interior is leather it’s an SE. Otherwise you have an EX.
thanks for the response. My sideview mirrors are same color as the exterior paint, and the interior door handles are chrome colored. I think it's an EX
@@Aryahmmr I meant like leather seats not interior handles haha. I think the chrome interior handles were an option/accessory. But yeah if your exterior handles/mirrors are painted and you have cloth seats it’s probably an EX
I have a 97 CRV the pry bar to upper and lower control arms conceive flexing around where shock mounts to lower control arm also sway bar end links could that be causing steering wheel wobble at high speed and low-speed and also the wandering issue it has first I thought it was a rack but crack is not leaking
I have 1995 model and still running good today.
Awesome
I have a Honda CR-V 2001 in New Zealand and they seem to get roof rust under the rubber channels and also around the rear mudguards the one I have for parts has rust in the same areas.
Looking at buyin a 99EX Auto with 190k miles. Say everything works right, few minor issues that can be easily fixed, almost perfect body and good running engine/trans. Would you buy it? Still a lot of life left?
Sure, they are great vehicles
Just got a 24yo CRV mt and def thinking thermostat stuck open. Takes a long time to warm up, heating not as hot as it should be and the coolant temp drops considerably when downhill or driving in cold/rain. My mpg is not great and i get fluctuating idle and revs upon clutch disengagement. Im thinking the engine constantly thinks its in the "warm up" mode and throwing the wrong air fuel mix in there, is that a reasonable guess?
maaaan i wish i woulda known about this channel 2 yrs ago when i spent months trying to figure out what the clunking noise was on my 99 crv. finally figured out it was the tie rod end. but man, it was such a PITA to figure out exactly what it was.
edit: wow, my clock is broken too! it's been broken for years.
Welcome aboard!
Buy a LED clock off of Amazon that fits inside the casing. Skip the clock battery & wire it to the existing car wiring. Reduce the 12V to under 4V using voltage divider. I used 2 resistors.
How about that dreadful ignition switch? I've known for the past year the switch needed replacing, but the problem has morphed into a crank/no start. None of the dash lights come on when key is turned to run or start. There are no fuses blown. The two phillips head screws that hold the plastic contacts/wiring have cammed out on me, so I'm getting ready to dremmel a slot in the breakaway bolt so I can just remove the entire assembly. These screws bring me back to when I had the front of the engine disected for timing belt, water pump, CFS, torque mount and motor mount, and a bunch of other repairs. Someone went crazy with the loctite and used the stuff on fasteners that did not require it, causing me ro round off several bolts, incl. the timing cover and the timing belt tensioner. That tensioner bolt was no joke and required extended work-around, since there wasn't enough room to use the proper "rounded bolt remover" and that bolt being gr. 8 and extremely hard; using a cut off wheel on a dremmel was slow-going. when the bolt finally came out, the loctite had been applied to the entire threaded section. That experience was worse than the crank bolt!!! I remember you answering several questions for me, and on the same day I typed them. Hard to forget about that, since you put me on the right track. I later discovered that the exhaust cam was off by one tooth. I became highly proficient in tearing that B-20 down in record time. The CRV has been running excellent and no further issues until this ignition switch. The first symptoms including the engine dying out at the worst possible time and loss of power steering during the event. It would always restart like nothing happened, and it was random - 2-3 times a month. I was able to duplicate the problem by wiggling the wires and turning the key ever so slightly. Keep up the good work and I hope you and your family are doing well.
My son has a 2000 crv, manual transmission all wheel drive. His front ujoint broke going down the road dropping the driveshaft onto the driveshaft loop. Thankfully it didn’t hit the ground. For the time being we just took it out till he gets a new one and is just using it as front wheel drive only. I don’t know if this is a common problem or not. Also just replaced the sticking thermostat, cam plug, alternator, and valve cover gasket.
Unfortunately the u joints aren't serviceable on the crv. You'll have to buy another driveshaft
USE THE BEST JAPAN PARTS YOU CAN FIND!
Use Sankei 555 suspension ball joints, tire, rod, etc. NGK, NSK, NTN, Ishino Stone, etc. You’ll be glad you did.
Solid advice
Hey there, aMy ac works but if I shut it off and turn the heat all the way up it's not blowing hot air, just warm ambient air...temp gauge on cluster is normal. Air is blowing normal rate still...where should I check first? Really hoping it's something easier than a heater core 😫
I'd be very interested in a common problems with the 2nd gen CR-V, as well!
I can definitely do that
See my content.. we deal with 2nd gens
Yeah, that would be a good idea...
Can I drive a 2001 Honda CRV AWD without the driveshaft in place from the transfer case to the rear diff? We used to live in NY but moved to Florida so I don't need AWD here. The front tires are getting more worn and I heard if you have tires more worn on the front then the back, you could do damage to the tranny/transfer case.
I have a 2000 crv and I recently changed the spark plug tube seals and spark plugs because they were swimming in oil. I also did a valve adjustment about 10k miles ago. After changing the spark plugs the next day I got a misfire in cylinder 4 and can’t really figure out why
Did you replace the plug wires?
I'd make sure you used the correck NGK plugs, then check the gaps. Also possible you cracked the insulation on old plug wires.
Thank you for all the information my friend
Question about a 1999bhonda crv automatic
Rebuild transmission should I buy it or decline thank you
I have a 99 currently having a problem with the windshield wiper fluid tubing replaced the pumps nothing to the windshield, but it started leaking inside the cabin
Hi big fan of your videos. Very helpful. But I a question what's making my honda 98 crv turn off while driving . I have replaced fuel pump fuel filter. A few relays also . Wait about 5 10 mins turns back on .
I would say either your distributor or main relay
Do you have a video on how to check why the cruise control isn’t working on a 98 Honda CRV LX? Thank you in advance.
Hello boss missed the transmission popping into first gear aggressively. Thx had 2 with same orob
I have a 2001 Honda CRV with 256K miles.
Problem:
Usually, when I accelerate to 50 MPH and above, there's an internal rumbling/knocking sound that seems to be coming from under the hood.
I also feel some vibration.
The problems greatly diminish or goes away completely when I let go of the gas but come back immediately as I accelerate again.
The problems get worse as I accelerate more, as does the vibration.
This problems usually do not present themselves until after I've driven my vehicle for 5 - 10 minutes.
Also, they seem to be more likely when I've sustained around the same driving speed for a few minutes.
Driving on flat or on inclined ground brings these problems out more than declined ground (though the problems are still noticeable during declined ground driving).
Occasionally, while sustaining a certain speed, the problems will greatly diminish for a few seconds before starting right back up to where they had been.
What the heck is going on?
I'm not sure. Hard to say without having the vehicle here
Change transmission oil as directed for your year crv. Trans Shudder happens because of old oil.
Thats generally an auto trans issue.
Need help! My 1999 Honda CR-V only slightly rear-ended a car. Initially, when I visited the storage lot where it was towed bc I was sent to ER for exam the car turned right over. Now car won't start-up sounds flooded- told a likely fuel pump problem from the impact. Then some guys said there's an actually an easy little known easy fix:
In the back of the CR-V -somewhere- there's a button I can push that will reset fuel pump. Searched online- nada. Gotta get car out of tow lot. I'm a 70 yr old grandma on my daughter's UA-cam acct asking needing advice ASAP. THANKS!!
There's no such thing on a Honda.
Hey there thank you for the video I have a 98 Crv and when I reverse it makes a noise up front two tires and its only when I reverse almost like metal slipping and gripping but idk would you happen to know what it possibly can be?
hard to say without it here.
Hey, have you figured out what the issue was? Im having the same exact problem on my 1999 crv
I have some questions and need help . Guidance with some things with my first gen! That leak u Dee the glove box I sealed the windshield with marine silicone has not leaked flood since. I love this car.
Awesome
Okay I have some questions about these...
In July 2024, how much would you say an LX first gen cost?
How many miles will the LX's last?
Are there any issues or things that I need to look out for when buying one?
Would you say that the majority of the first gen LX's came in manuals? (I want a manual one)
Lastly, I really realy enjoy these videos thank you
Price varies by region and I would say that here in Southeast US there are way more autos than manuals. The main things I would look out for is oil leaks and ball joints. If you do buy an auto make sure it shifts good before you purchase it.
@@hondaresource Thank you very much.
I have 2001 crv SE model and have a mysterious problem of cranking but no start and its intermittent. Usually happens when the car is at running temp. I have replaced the distributor ,cap ,rotar, plugs ,wires, and fuel filter.
The starter is strong and I just had the whole timing belt kit replacement done and it is still having the problem.
I would look at the main relay. It's behind the glove compartment.
I've had my CRV for 15 years and I had the same issue where it wouldn't start and it ended up being the coolant sensor just by the distributor and I was like you I replaced all that stuff you did.....
So I’m having a problem with my 2000 crv rd1 over heating problems when running ac I’ve switched both fans they both run great I have switched temperature sensor fan switch radiator thermostat I’ve done a Block combination test all was good what else could it be
Only with ac?
Crazy, I have a 5 speed first gen CR-V in this same clover green, so this video was a godsend for my clicking suspension lol
Hopefully you get it figured out. Occasionally I see the sway bar bushings go bad but most likely it's the end links
Mine too , exact , 2000 crv ex 5 speed ,
Look up gene Kim n chuck missler on UA-cam
great video!!!! now my question: 2001 CRV EX, 330K miles. situation: hot weather in central TX, cranks, rough loping idle, sounds like it's flooded, smells like it's flooded. maybe icm? thanks for everything.
I would look at the ect sensor under the distributor.
@@hondaresource i just replaced it about a year ago. any preferred brand i should be using? i'll swap that sucker out again. thanks a bunch!!!
Oil leak, assume oil pressure sending unit first if in that area. Rear wheels splay out, adjustable top camber links.
I have 2001 1st generation CRV LX AWD Automatic with 135,000 miles on it, which I bought new in 2001. It’s in pretty good shape. I love this car. I’m hoping to keep it running as long as I do. Thanks for all your great advice. Have you run into issues with vibration sounds coming from the catalytic converter?
Heat shields rusting off?
@@hondaresource no, internal. It causes sort of a “blasting” sound maybe coming out of the exhaust pipe. We (one of my mechanics, although sometimes I do the work myself) think it’s the Catalytic Converter.
@@pwoc94110 I've seen them melt and pieces break loose
My mom has a automatic AWD 2001 CRV with 226k miles that I’m helping maintain for her. Between 27-40 mph it makes a grinding noise (the whole car vibrates a little bit and the coins in the tray rattle) when going the speed limit but when I go to accelerate it hesitates and it grinds harder for a split second then downshifts and starts to accelerate again, when I press the overdrive off button none of this happens though. I’ve already replaced the transmission fluid about 2 years ago and it didn’t grind as often but it still grinds, it’s like the car is stuck in a gear. The car is still drivable and it’s been like this since shortly after we got it 4 years ago. Any idea what could be done to fix this? Just wondering if it’s a part or a whole transmission that would be needed
Did you ever figure this out? I have to do the overdrive trick as well. It’s usually around 1000-1300 rpm the whole car rattles/ shakes. I’m stumped as well
@@Chazisus I have not figured it out, we just kinda deal with it. But I have noticed lately the transmission is being hesitant to shift into a higher gear now sometimes I’m thinking maybe the transmission needs a rebuild or maybe something with the torque converter, I don’t know because I’m not too knowledgeable on those things
Thanks for the information. I have an 01 CRV SE with an odd no crank issue when below 10 degrees F. The ignition switch has been replaced, the battery which was old and lost CCA and now the starter. Had the car towed several times to the shop and they keep trying something else. The problem is it only happens when super cold outside. They bring the car in to the shop to troubleshoot and then it starts. It's a crapshoot on what to change.
Besides the starter, battery and ignition switch, what esle could cause no crank in extreme cold?
I thought the starter relay, so I swapped it with another relay in the car... did not affect the issue.
What about the nuetral safety switch?
Or, there was an alarm in the car when I bought it. The siren quit working and it does not work anymore. The remote works to open the doors.
Could it be a relay or Immobilizer tied to that?
Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Big Dubz.
The aftermarket alarm may have an effect on it, bypass the starter kill function on it and see if that makes a difference
I'm working on the mother in laws 2000 crv and I'm not having any luck finding the 56 tooth gear for the pass. Power mirror. Any help would be awesome,, finding a complete mirror to swap it out is almost impossible in Michigan.. your videos have saved me frustration and her $$$. Thank you.
Only solution I would have is replace the mirror.
Found a replacement for it in the same faded red.. thank you for your time.
Mine makes a noise when turning and accelerating slow, I replaced control arms and nothing changed
Sway bar maybe?
I have a CRV rd1 auto. It is a second hand car I bought . I left it parked for sometime about 5 months. There wasn't any problem but when I started the car I couldn't get it to shift into gear from park. I just couldn't work out what's the problem. Please give some help,if you can.
Also a problem I noticed is that when leaves fall into the fresh air vent they start to biodegrade, creating soil that clogs the drain in the pan which causes water to pool and moldy smells.
Hey I'm looking to buy a 2000 one and every thing seem fine til when first started and when turning the steering wheel makes the car idle very low to the point that it wants to stall out. Would you know what could be the problem ?
Water leakage in the front seats comes fom a hole in the floor which corresponds with the sunroof..
Another problem are the valve seals, they must be replaced at 150-200 000 km.
Otherwise you will face oil consume..
Lambda sensor also must be replaced after 200 000km
I solved the water leak on the passenger side of my 98 crv but can’t figure out the driver side? Every time it rains the carpet is wet. Spent hours running a hose over it and looking at every possible location but can’t find where it’s coming in. The drains are perfectly clear and flowing
My crv struggles to get going after driving a distance and then stopping. Sounds like something not quite connecting for a few seconds - then it revs high and settles . Also the first and second gear a Lee a little clunky. Would that be a bear box on the way out or a clutch issue . If I’m super slow on clutch release it is smooth , but I’ve also been told this is bad driving . ??
IVE BEEN SEARCHING YOUR CHANNEL FOR A RACK AND PINION REPLACEMENT VIDEO FOR 1ST GEN 4WD OR POWER STEERING PUMP IF YOU HAVENT MADE THEM YET PLEASE MAKE ONE NO ONE ELSE HAS AN EXCELLENT WAY OF EXPLAINING THE PROCESS LIKE YOU IN THE CORRECT DETAIL. I THINK I KILLED MY POWER STEERING WHEN I PUT IN THE WRONG FLUID AND ITS JUST PISSING FLUID SO I THINK I MAY HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY.
Thank you! I haven't made a video for doing the rack and pinion yet. It's not a fun job. I can make on for the pump at some point.
@@hondaresource CAN I USE A POWER STEERING PUMP FROM THE JUNKYARD BECAUSE I PUT REGULAR POWER STEERING FLUID IN MINE AND IT STARTED LEAKING LIKE CRAZY. WOULD I HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE SYSTEM TO INSURE THAT NONE OF THE AMERICAN FLUID IS IN THE SYSTEM?
hey, I've got a 99 C-RV and well even though is made it two hours home with all the issues it has, I just wanted your opinion on if you'd save this one, or just ditch it. aside from needing an engine (that one I'm more than willing to get.) it needs ball joints on both sides up front, both rear axle bushings, a windshield, sway bar inlinks, both tie rod ends, all control arm bushings up front, I too have a leaking fresh air vent on the passenger side, oil pan gasket, rear seal that connects the engine to the transmission (no clue what its called sorry). so far that about concludes what we have found so far. However she still drives and stops so, I have a great deal of respect for this model C-RV. I like this car a lot even with all these issues. My question to you is, would you feel she's worth saving or would you not even touch it with a 10ft pole? xD
It really just depends on if you're mechanically inclined and feel like tackling some repairs
I bought a crv for parts that needed a full suspension overhaul, a clutch, and a windshield for under 1k. Ended up fixing it and it's been great. Now i need another parts car tho. XD
How do the Automatic transmissions hold up ?
Currently have an 01 with a manual and love the vehicle
Thanks in advance
Generally speaking they do pretty well.
Man your crv videos are great, I've had a lot of these issues with mine. Nice crocs btw lmao
I love the Crocs man
@@hondaresource never had a pair, might have to try them out
@@brandonjones5637 me either until about 2 months ago. Now I wear these things like everyday
Love you...but when you talk about changing sway links you said just "take off the bolt"...yeah right! It just slips. Hex key doesn't grip. Sawzall and/or grinder. Waiting g for that video!
Some things easier said than done for sure
i have a 97 honda crv with a b20b4 engine that has a bad valve lifter can you make a diy video on how to replace a bad lifter cause i dont have $3000 to take it in to the shop to get it fixed plus ive been trying to learn how to fix parts on my car myself and your videos really help me out with that
distributor issues??? why would my 98 eat distros? usually about 1 a year? is it the valve adjustment? thanks!
Love your videos.
2 issues I had with my 2000 CRV was a faulty distributor that I replaced, and the cat blocked up and needed to replace the whole exhaust. Have you ever dealt with those problems?
Thanks
I've delt with plenty of distributor issues. Not very common for the cat to be blocked.
idk if youll see this but last year I changed the rad, thermostat, and head gasket on my car and also cleaned out the hoses cus they had built up debris inside because my car was overheating last year.. it sort of fixed it but now my car heats up when coming to a stop while on drive then goes back down to normal temps when moving . It also revs up and down to/from 2000RPM when put in park also whenever I use my car for like an hour ( grocery's/shopping ) and try to turn it on to go home it doesnt start until I give it some time to cooldown even tho the gauge doesnt say its hot( my best guess ). I called up my dads mechanic to see if he could get it fixed but hopefully you have some ideas of whats going on so I could be ready to make some suggestions or whatever to him and get my car fixed up soon
I have a 98 crv and I'm having problems with my rear rattling real bad like there acorns in there. Lol and loss of power due to transmission not shifting sometimes. I've done a tune up but not the trans fluid.
Love my 2001 did timing belt valve lash motor mounts thinking bout doing a distr cap and rotor delete
I just bought a 1998 EX CR-V that came with engine code p1457. I tested tqo of the solenoids in the engine bay and they work. Does anybody have any experience with this or know of a common fail point in the evap system?
Hello I have a crv 1998 with problems in the sunroof but I can not find any video to help me with that, they tried to repair it and I do not know if it is missing parts
Sunroof was NOT a factory option for the 1st gen crv. It's been added after the fact.
Watch this just to get an idea of what I should do with my 98 CRV. I have put a lot of money into it when I bought it in 2018 a lot of things went wrong with it since then. Too long of a list but I got the timing belt change it has a new radiator new sway bars one axle is fixed the other needs fixing had a refurbished gasket put in about 1 1/2 2 years ago. I live in Missouri . I found out today that my transmission is shot so it has to be replaced. The automotive place quoted me $2,900 to fix it I know labor's cost of parts are high right now anyway. It uses oil and I've had the oil pan gasket repaired within the last 3 or 4 months. And there's no other leak it's just using oil which just started like this past year. I don't know anybody or have any help with money to get it fixed so I'm trying to figure out if it's worth keeping and not just trying to go buy another vehicle. Which I don't want to car payment and I'm sure it was going to be a high car payment so anyway just let me know what you think thank you appreciate it
Hi how did you connect the wiring without the door plug? I do have the same problem and I have no idea to make the rubber boot waterproof towards the door.
Cheers Markus
I just wired the door harness directly to the chassis harness. You'd have to get creative if you wanted water proof. Maybe some silicone would work
I have ine of these and have spent around 1500 trying to fix it done a tune up and it started missing got that fixed and now it will not idle until it warms up. After it warms up its runs fine other than idle surge and seems like it down on power a little.. I've took it to 3 different people who have replaced timing belt to checking this and that and computer with no luck
No check engine light? Kinda sounds like the ECT sensor since it wont idle until warm
Yeah Philip I did have 01 voodoo blue 5spd 158k miles but eats gas like dragon because rpm high at high speed 3 1/2 rom