I have owned a 98 CRV since it was new, a common problem I have had is that the electronic air control valve bolted to the back of the intake manifold becomes fouled, causing rough idle. It needs to be cleaned with brake cleaner every 10,000 miles or so. Keeps the car idling smooth.
*1999 CR-V EX, 267K miles two years ago the a/c compressor went (part $168/ + $120 install) and charge, 2 rear links and the cruise control does not work, the clock in the center of the console doesn't work and I had to replace the door pull latch drivers side, $11 for the part and about 20 mins of my time. That's it. Best car I ever owned.*
The clock didn't work in mine when I first bought it. I took it out, disassembled it and followed a tutorial on here to reflow solder. Worked like a charm. Just be careful when removing it from the dash as the dash is soft and likes to crack when leveraged against. :)
@@gailmrutland6508See video: Honda Cruise Control Fix With A Penny_ DIY Jeff I am not sure, but the above YT video MAY be the fix your cruise control issue. And read the comments section afterwards, because there's an adjustment. See 5th comment down, made by @itzmrfizz
I live in South Africa and own a 98. Most issues you mention I have dealt with. One issue that there was with mine is on the ignition switch. There is a small harness about 4 inches long that connects the ignition to the wiring harness. The ignition wire fails, causing the car to cut out while driving, and you have to restart. In the beginning it happens intermittently, but get to a point where you start the car and it dies immediately, and to replace it costs a small fortune in my country. I solved the problem by brigding the ACC switch and the ignition switch with a small piece of wire. This was 9 years ago and never had problems again. Only drawback, when you switch the car on at ACC the dash lights up. Hope the advice helps someone
I swapped the rear diff for the unit from the 2008-11 Element, and it makes a huge difference! Drives much more like a car, the original diff makes it feel like a heavy truck, even though it's a unibody.
@@adihus67 It's not hard to replace the diff, it's very accessible. The power feels much better, it completely changes the driving feel of the CR-V, feels like a nimble car instead of a truck, even on the snow. It's an exact fit because they used the same casing as the original unit, which makes sourcing one difficult, they only way to tell which one has the upgrade is by model year.
My 2001 manual 5 speed in newly painted Milano red will hit 300K soon. I do all maintenance myself & it runs like a dream. I've experienced about half the issues you list & some you haven't. The last part I replaced was a door lock actuator. Those $9 aftermarket actuators are junk! My CRV is only the 2nd car I've ever owned & I just turned 60 yrs old. My last car was a Mazda RX7. Only Japanese.
@@gomertube Went to Maaco. Filled any dents myself to save money. $1300. I was told I didn't need their premium paint job. No orange peel & damn looks brand new.
Just FYI on the passenger side water on the floor. I have dealt with this issue on a few of them. On the roof there is a black strip that runs from the windshield to the rear window. There is a body seam under that trim and the sealant cracks. The water enters the body seam, runs down the a-piller then behind the dash and onto the floor.
currently I need advice how to deal with mines I have the 1998 model with sunroof and when rain fall heavy both passanger and driver side water on the flooring please what cause this really need to get this sought out soon as possible. could it be the sunroof rubber need changing if so where can I source the rubber online to purchase. Help anyone please how to deal with this problem.
Great informational video. Was able to fix the clock in my old first gen with a $10 sottering iron. Only issue i had for the 30,000 miles of ownership i had was a sticky thermostat. Sold it to a good friend with over 300,000 miles on the odo and its still going strong
Huh? I tried to fix my clock with a solidering iron, I plugged it in, came on for 2 seconds and went back out.😐 I tried to solder as much as I can but couldn't get under a circuit board plate..the plate is like glued on.
For the clock I bought.a LED kit on Amazon for about $10 that fits inside the existing case. No battery required if you hook it up to the exiting car battery wiring. Voltage divider (2 resistors) will reduce the voltage down to under 4 V. All the old clock components get tossed.
@Darryl Stevens can you please link me to the led kit you used? Also tried to solder two diff oem clocks, works intermittently. Seems like the problem is in the wiring harness which i’d rather not deal with. Clock seems to work when moving harness in diff positions
@@druf. try this you tube video. I did not use the supplied battery though & instead connected to my car battery but dropped the voltage down to under 5V using 2 resistors. ua-cam.com/video/_DfmCX9mzDw/v-deo.html
Thanks for the vid. I love my 1st Gen CRV. I do have some issues but for the most part, these cars are tanks. A true testament to Japanese quality cars when they were still made in Japan.
@@hondaresource Quick question for you, a while back I had an issue with the transmission slipping. (I had the transmission rebuild but still giving me problems, diff issue) .What is your recommendation when it comes to transmission and giving problems on this gen 1 Vs. Do you look for a wrecked one and swap it? (but I am afraid I am just buying time before it happens again). What's your take on this? I know the gen 1 Vs are notorious to have transmission issues. Thanks in advance for the comment on my question. And awesome content on the channel. You got a new subcriber here. :)
@@itsjiraheta I had the 2 trans oil sending units replaced and the trans goes good now....only issue is I get a small clunk when going into 2 nd gear....but I'm having trouble passing emissions because it still trigger's the check engine light....The Tork converter ......I'm looking to get a used trans on eBay or Junkyard.....then having it installed.....But common problem......
@@SaulnowPaul77722 Thanks for the info. I just hit 200k. Doing a lot of work on it. I went to a junkyard and got me some some working selenoids. I hope that helps me. Doing a transmission flush too. Ill share my findings. But, I have heard the same thing. That tends to be a common problem. Thanks for the reply.
The automatic transmission models often experience a shift flare when shifting into 3rd gear and a shudder during deceleration. The driver’s side window motor tends to weaken over time, causing the window to roll up slowly. The ignition lock cylinder can also bind, usually due to metal powder from the worn-down key accumulating in the cylinder. Blowing it out with compressed air worked for me. Additionally, the driver’s side power door lock may start making a buzzing noise and eventually stop locking the door. I cleared out the dust from the lock assembly, and it’s been functioning well for the last 10 years. Another common issue is the muffler-to-intermediate pipe connection breaking due to rust. These are a few extra things that weren’t mentioned in the video.
In my '01 it's not a leak as such but a dirty, cruddy door seal that directs water into the car. The seal has a fold that has to be opened up and cleaned out. I use the car key because it's pointed but blunt and won't puncture the rubber.
Completely right about working in the rust... Did my 99 crv's front suspension recently and the driver side came off okay, passenger side every second bolt needed to be drilled out or cut through. I can say from personal experience, a grinder doesn't nicely fit where most those bolts are and cutting through suspension components is a hell of a lot of work lol. At least I have a sweet CRV now though I suppose...
Great video man love your videos on these v's. You and couple other people i follow on the internet saved me lots of money learning how to repair things. I really appreciate it. Keep up the great work!!
I bought mine with a valve seat issue, I had a machine shop fix it and has been great since, I did the oilpan updated gasket when I had the cylinder head off, I'm sure mine needs the front swaybar links and change rear diff pump fluid, great little car with it's own table.
wow the timing on this video is great for me... just now noticed a significant amount of moisture green mold under my mats after 17 years of having this car. it's always stayed dry until recently after we moved from our place that had a covered carport.
Hey thanks for the video, I have a 01 crv and I bought it about 2 years ago and I love it even with all the millage "230" it's still running solid but it's doing something that I don't know what it is, ans what it's doing is that the engine stops for no reason even when I'm driving in the middle of the road, then I Have to pull over and let it rest for 15 minutes and then I cracked and it's back to life and it's doing it more and more, I think it's a sensor or gas pump I don't know,
I recently acquired an 01' V and it had a burnt Cyl 3 exhaust valve. JDM B20B. Pulled the head. Lapped valves. Replaced burnt valve and seals. Installed and it runs great but seems to be consuming a ton of oil. Think I've got bad or stuck rings. It also does this super weird thing where it starts great cold but when warm it long cranks and barely sputters to life. I'm currently chasing that issue. And per your valve lash vid, lash is spot on. I really took my time with that so I don't think that's the issues. 175 miles so far in this rebuild. 😊
Great content, man! You're one of very the few relatable content creators on this topic! I'm heavily contemplating on getting a Gen 1 2000/2001 CRV -- can you talk on their 20+ year old automatic transmission? What to look for before buying, it's reliability and it's maintenance? The local buy & sell groups seem to sell the AT (automatic transmission) at a much affordable price than the MTs, buy Im quite wary of the AT's possible issues and upkeep -- especially on a 20+ year old Honda. I've never had a AT vehicle ever, but I'm so tempted to get one on a gen 1 CRV! Keep the informative content coming, and thank you!
Thank you for all the valuable info. The one serious design fault that has bothered me is how the rear tailgate works. It is instinctive to just go straight for the handle on the tailgate, if you dont know to first lift up the glass. Obviously, as the owner, it is not a problem, but generally when someone else opens the back, they just open the tailgate, so that the glass gets forced up and drops again.... and then, if they try to close the tailgate, it will just break the glass. The printed warning is difficult to see, and pretty useless. The other irritating issue that I have noticed, - my CRV has the built in roof racks that run above the doors. Pretty useless compared to those that run perpendicular over the roof, and also no sensible way to tie ropes.... but the worst issue is that there is a gutter to collect rain water that runs under the roof rack, and there is a post just above the front door, so when it has been raining, and the roof is wet, when you brake, all the water runs forward, hits that post and then pours down the window.... if the window is open, it pours down onto the driver - happens to me often, and I curse myself for not anticipating it.
Just did a boatload of work to mine, including engine swap, most of the suspension replaced. just had one horn go out, which killed the brake lights, etc. Fixed that, and the rear washer. The only thing left is the Cruise control, which used to work and a front end alignment.
Thanks. very clear filming of under the car and front end. Crv is a good car but this is the first time I have had this kind of car (2002 crv) which you can remove oil filter by turning the poassanger wheel to the right and you see the oil filter, just newly I found this by myself , otherwise is very hard to remove oil filter from under the car!
I just had all the frame bushings renewed in my 1st-gen CR-V - MUCH quieter now. Also had the door wiring problem - had the dealership do all the soldering - pretty good job - still works.
I bought my '98 CRV in March of that year and it currently has a little over 292k miles under her belt so I'm coming from a place of experience. I've found checking/adjusting the valve clearance every 30k miles to be overkill. I slowly kept extending the intervals to see if it made any difference, I now do it every 50k miles and even at that interval I usually only have to adjust several exhaust valves to the loose side of specs. Last year I replaced the original lower ball joints with the Proforged brand which I've had good luck with when I replaced the outer tie rod ends around five years ago. Another thing to watch is the condition of the rear trailing arm bushings which I replaced last year as well. Great video!
IVE BEEN SEARCHING YOUR CHANNEL FOR A RACK AND PINION REPLACEMENT VIDEO FOR 1ST GEN 4WD OR POWER STEERING PUMP IF YOU HAVENT MADE THEM YET PLEASE MAKE ONE NO ONE ELSE HAS AN EXCELLENT WAY OF EXPLAINING THE PROCESS LIKE YOU IN THE CORRECT DETAIL. I THINK I KILLED MY POWER STEERING WHEN I PUT IN THE WRONG FLUID AND ITS JUST PISSING FLUID SO I THINK I MAY HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY.
@@hondaresource CAN I USE A POWER STEERING PUMP FROM THE JUNKYARD BECAUSE I PUT REGULAR POWER STEERING FLUID IN MINE AND IT STARTED LEAKING LIKE CRAZY. WOULD I HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE SYSTEM TO INSURE THAT NONE OF THE AMERICAN FLUID IS IN THE SYSTEM?
Another issue water leaks comes from front hood cable through the fender into the cabin room. There is one hole with rubber seal. The rubber getting worn and cracked. Mine was solve once I recover by dismantling fender and pouring water from roof. And another way is coming from sunroof drain pipe. The pipe is going inside the cabin and way out by the joint is located inside the cabin. You may found behind the aircond motor blower. Hope this will helps those who are looking for solution.
USE THE BEST JAPAN PARTS YOU CAN FIND! Use Sankei 555 suspension ball joints, tire, rod, etc. NGK, NSK, NTN, Ishino Stone, etc. You’ll be glad you did.
I have a 99 CR-V My door wire harness was pinched BAD. 22 WIRES going to the door!. I spliced in a foot of new wires in between....44 connections! Luckily, I was a car audio installer in a previous decade, so it was more pain in the neck than anything else. I'm hoping to install 2 inch spacers soon, and get my baby BACK on the road! The guy that I bought the car from had let a ball joint go for a long time, and it made a seal go in my steering rack, with an endless drip. I'm replacing THAT too. I don't consider that a "common" problem.
Thank you so much for this video! Possible there's a little differential chatter in the front? I have that chatter on mine but it seems to be coming from the front. My model is manual transmission if it makes a difference.
I’m having the worst trouble with my 2000 Honda CR-V manual. About 4 or 5 months ago, it started stalling at idle and it idled a little rough. About 3 months ago it started stalling why I was driving it. I bought an Ancel OBD2 and it would throw random codes. One day it would say O2 sensor (upstream), then P1399, P0300, and P0301-304 (all cylinders misfiring). One single time it threw P0505 (idle control system), and P0122 (TPS switch A circuit low). There was no rhyme or reason to it, the codes would be here today and gone tomorrow, replaced by a different code. The short term fuel trim was all over the place at idle (-7.0 to -17.6). I checked every single vacuum line for vacuum leak, with an entire can of brake cleaner, but nothing. We have replaced, O2 sensor, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, distributor (with new cam sensor), TPS, and probably half a dozen other things that I can’t remember at the moment. We drove it to my mechanics, I would only make it a few miles and it would stall. I had to wait 15 minutes, without ever trying to crank it, before it would crank again and go another few more miles. On the last 10 miles, I got in behind a person driving 35mph and it never stalled again, which honestly had me baffled. Anyway he put it in his Snap-on machine and it came up “Temporary Code List, DE0604H/1455032, Refresh To OEM.” So he’s at a loss as well. Ok, after writing a book about it (sorry about that), the only thing that I believe that can be it is the ECU/ECM. My husband says that the only thing it needs now is a match in the gas tank. 😒😂 Have you ever experience anything this mysterious with a first Gen CR-V, or am I just having bad luck?
Great content my bro. Love your videos. I own 2 first gen crv’s and they’re both manual. They’re pretty rare everywhere with manual transmissions. One is a 99 lx and the other is a 01 ex. Love them both. The 01 I bought back in 2010. Picked it up from a surfer dude in Santa Barbara :)
@@bakihanma7247 not a bad idea. I was thinking about changing pistons and rods on the lx and boosting it. Also a custom b series tranny. 1&2 gears from 99-00 si 3&4 gears gar and 5th from integra ls.
Love you...but when you talk about changing sway links you said just "take off the bolt"...yeah right! It just slips. Hex key doesn't grip. Sawzall and/or grinder. Waiting g for that video!
I'm getting infected with the itch to buy one of these to compliment my GE Fit Sport and I saw one locally on the classifieds for $1500. Now that price for Puerto Rico is a red flag already, but the ad mentions that the car has a "bad" water pump. Is that something I should just walk away from because of a greater issue(head gasket?) or something a timing belt kit can cure? Great video and thanks for sharing!
maaaan i wish i woulda known about this channel 2 yrs ago when i spent months trying to figure out what the clunking noise was on my 99 crv. finally figured out it was the tie rod end. but man, it was such a PITA to figure out exactly what it was. edit: wow, my clock is broken too! it's been broken for years.
Buy a LED clock off of Amazon that fits inside the casing. Skip the clock battery & wire it to the existing car wiring. Reduce the 12V to under 4V using voltage divider. I used 2 resistors.
@@hondaresource Yea man sorry I hadn't reached back out to you about my questions all these months. I think it was instagram. But it was concerning the fork and shocks. But I'll get back to you on that.
Some other problems that can occur: Axles can break causing clunking from sharp turns. Back window mounts break. Valve stem seals tend to wear out and cause oil to burn and come out the exhaust while idling the car and will eventually clear up when driving. doors mechanisms some times freeze and become stuck shut not a fun time trying to get it to release as if it locks again it will be stuck again. Windshields are prone to rocks xD just in my luck.
I just bought one really cheap and it literally has everything you explained. 😂😂😂 not more not less. I got the clock working for a minute but it failed again.
I'm working on the mother in laws 2000 crv and I'm not having any luck finding the 56 tooth gear for the pass. Power mirror. Any help would be awesome,, finding a complete mirror to swap it out is almost impossible in Michigan.. your videos have saved me frustration and her $$$. Thank you.
Also a problem I noticed is that when leaves fall into the fresh air vent they start to biodegrade, creating soil that clogs the drain in the pan which causes water to pool and moldy smells.
Oh, I was waiting for you to have nailed the PGMFI and/or main relay problem, notorious for most Honda models of these years range. The cold solder joints on the PCB board, easy to fix or replace.
You right man, baljoint lower or upper, and tie rod end inner or orther are a serious issue people should investigate and replace immediatelly for any bought used car, because you dont want to be driving or inside a car when the balljoint or tie rod end got broken, and even the towtrack driver will charge you double to tow your car with broken balljoint, but he will tow broken tierod end if nothing happen to the wheel itself (somtimes broken tierod end will cause the balljoint to get broken and the wheel get disconnected from the car, if your are driven with hight speed in highway, ofcourse if you and your car survive the problem, broken balljoint in hight speed in highway may cause multiple crushes with other vehicles, oh man You dont want that ), it happen to me but i was in a local street street going with low speed, stopped immeddiatelly, pusshed the car to a closed parking spot and fixed the problem next day, took me two days to fix it.
@@hondaresource not just this model, but i have seen other car brand with broken balljoint on the road example the big SUV chevrolet suburban that used as taxi carservice, this model got its balljoint broken too soon, atleast honda crv got its balljoint broken after 225000 miles, but the suburban have less than 100000 miles.
😎 One thing that was an issue in the first generation was the ignition switch some they warranted others it's a quick fix just swap it out but If you don't the whole car will just shut off.
Water leakage in the front seats comes fom a hole in the floor which corresponds with the sunroof.. Another problem are the valve seals, they must be replaced at 150-200 000 km. Otherwise you will face oil consume.. Lambda sensor also must be replaced after 200 000km
Hey there, aMy ac works but if I shut it off and turn the heat all the way up it's not blowing hot air, just warm ambient air...temp gauge on cluster is normal. Air is blowing normal rate still...where should I check first? Really hoping it's something easier than a heater core 😫
i have a 97 honda crv with a b20b4 engine that has a bad valve lifter can you make a diy video on how to replace a bad lifter cause i dont have $3000 to take it in to the shop to get it fixed plus ive been trying to learn how to fix parts on my car myself and your videos really help me out with that
I had my valves adjusted on a '99 CR-V in Canda, and it costed $415.xx CND tax in. I supplied the valve cover/spark plug ring gaskets. I looked under the hood and noticed that it didn't even look different, and I had a certain zip tie holding my ignition wires in place and my ground wire looked the same last time I close the hood and (just did an oil change myself). Should I be suspect?
I have 2001 1st generation CRV LX AWD Automatic with 135,000 miles on it, which I bought new in 2001. It’s in pretty good shape. I love this car. I’m hoping to keep it running as long as I do. Thanks for all your great advice. Have you run into issues with vibration sounds coming from the catalytic converter?
@@hondaresource no, internal. It causes sort of a “blasting” sound maybe coming out of the exhaust pipe. We (one of my mechanics, although sometimes I do the work myself) think it’s the Catalytic Converter.
Love your videos ! I live in Michigan and have a 99 CR V that’s got an engine light stuck on but my mechanic guy who works on cars out of his garage says it’s nothing to worry about ? Say what ? He says it’s got to do with gas tank ? Can ya help me ? I may as well go to reg shop have an inspection instead of guessing lol 😂
Not tightening up the gas cap enough after refilling. Click close at least 3x and after the next few times of refilling gas the engine light may turn off
Love your videos keep up the good work.... please i have a question for a first time car buyer who is still learning to drive which do you advise on getting the first or second CRV will really appreciate your feedback
I have a 2001 Crv and the transmission failed once, had it completely rebuilt for $2K and lasted only two years and I found out that these Hondas have notorious weak transmission problem from Crvs to civics all the way up to pilots and odyssey models
Okay I have some questions about these... In July 2024, how much would you say an LX first gen cost? How many miles will the LX's last? Are there any issues or things that I need to look out for when buying one? Would you say that the majority of the first gen LX's came in manuals? (I want a manual one) Lastly, I really realy enjoy these videos thank you
Price varies by region and I would say that here in Southeast US there are way more autos than manuals. The main things I would look out for is oil leaks and ball joints. If you do buy an auto make sure it shifts good before you purchase it.
Hi, you've got a great collection videos here! Thank for sharing them with the public! I have fuel injector leaking to the intake side of the engine on my -99 CR-V. Have you got ideas how to make it stop? I've already bought and replaced a new injector o-ring, but it did solve the issue
Hey I'm looking to buy a 2000 one and every thing seem fine til when first started and when turning the steering wheel makes the car idle very low to the point that it wants to stall out. Would you know what could be the problem ?
Just got a 24yo CRV mt and def thinking thermostat stuck open. Takes a long time to warm up, heating not as hot as it should be and the coolant temp drops considerably when downhill or driving in cold/rain. My mpg is not great and i get fluctuating idle and revs upon clutch disengagement. Im thinking the engine constantly thinks its in the "warm up" mode and throwing the wrong air fuel mix in there, is that a reasonable guess?
great video!!!! now my question: 2001 CRV EX, 330K miles. situation: hot weather in central TX, cranks, rough loping idle, sounds like it's flooded, smells like it's flooded. maybe icm? thanks for everything.
I have two 1st gen CRVs. Both Red. One is AT, the other stick, so we named them Otto and Manuel. Anyways, I would add the upper control arm bushings in the front and lower control arm bushings in the rear. Manuel we have had 10 years, Otto we have had 6 years and they are pretty robust. Manuel had a burned valve for the previous owner and after I got it the vehicle was stolen and came back with a miss...I adjusted the valves and its been great. 219k on one, 239 on the other. MN vehicles...rust in wheel arches other than that they look pretty good.
Oh and both cars had an issue where they would not start Rather than pay big bucks for cap, rotor whatever I just went to Ebay and got a complete distributor ---everything in one fell swoop for like $55. 10 minutes to swap them out and running great
thanks for the response. My sideview mirrors are same color as the exterior paint, and the interior door handles are chrome colored. I think it's an EX
@@Aryahmmr I meant like leather seats not interior handles haha. I think the chrome interior handles were an option/accessory. But yeah if your exterior handles/mirrors are painted and you have cloth seats it’s probably an EX
Hi big fan of your videos. Very helpful. But I a question what's making my honda 98 crv turn off while driving . I have replaced fuel pump fuel filter. A few relays also . Wait about 5 10 mins turns back on .
Can I drive a 2001 Honda CRV AWD without the driveshaft in place from the transfer case to the rear diff? We used to live in NY but moved to Florida so I don't need AWD here. The front tires are getting more worn and I heard if you have tires more worn on the front then the back, you could do damage to the tranny/transfer case.
Good video, lots of info, im having the issue when driving and i turn i would have to return it to center myself rather than it returning when you let go of the S. wheel, much worst in the highway, hence i've done 2 full wheel alignments but still cant figure it out for the of me.
I have a Honda CR-V 2001 in New Zealand and they seem to get roof rust under the rubber channels and also around the rear mudguards the one I have for parts has rust in the same areas.
I have some questions and need help . Guidance with some things with my first gen! That leak u Dee the glove box I sealed the windshield with marine silicone has not leaked flood since. I love this car.
Love your videos. 2 issues I had with my 2000 CRV was a faulty distributor that I replaced, and the cat blocked up and needed to replace the whole exhaust. Have you ever dealt with those problems? Thanks
Hey there thank you for the video I have a 98 Crv and when I reverse it makes a noise up front two tires and its only when I reverse almost like metal slipping and gripping but idk would you happen to know what it possibly can be?
Looking at buyin a 99EX Auto with 190k miles. Say everything works right, few minor issues that can be easily fixed, almost perfect body and good running engine/trans. Would you buy it? Still a lot of life left?
How about that dreadful ignition switch? I've known for the past year the switch needed replacing, but the problem has morphed into a crank/no start. None of the dash lights come on when key is turned to run or start. There are no fuses blown. The two phillips head screws that hold the plastic contacts/wiring have cammed out on me, so I'm getting ready to dremmel a slot in the breakaway bolt so I can just remove the entire assembly. These screws bring me back to when I had the front of the engine disected for timing belt, water pump, CFS, torque mount and motor mount, and a bunch of other repairs. Someone went crazy with the loctite and used the stuff on fasteners that did not require it, causing me ro round off several bolts, incl. the timing cover and the timing belt tensioner. That tensioner bolt was no joke and required extended work-around, since there wasn't enough room to use the proper "rounded bolt remover" and that bolt being gr. 8 and extremely hard; using a cut off wheel on a dremmel was slow-going. when the bolt finally came out, the loctite had been applied to the entire threaded section. That experience was worse than the crank bolt!!! I remember you answering several questions for me, and on the same day I typed them. Hard to forget about that, since you put me on the right track. I later discovered that the exhaust cam was off by one tooth. I became highly proficient in tearing that B-20 down in record time. The CRV has been running excellent and no further issues until this ignition switch. The first symptoms including the engine dying out at the worst possible time and loss of power steering during the event. It would always restart like nothing happened, and it was random - 2-3 times a month. I was able to duplicate the problem by wiggling the wires and turning the key ever so slightly. Keep up the good work and I hope you and your family are doing well.
I have a 97 and its shuts off randomly while driving on the highway. Everything on the dash lights up then the engine turns back on but it will not go forward after only in reverse. Mechanic says to sell it as I have it towed but once he gets it to his lot its working again with no lights on the dash and no codes show up on his reader. He cant figure out what it is and says it will cost me moee than its worth to figure out. Do you have any sugestions? It only has 110,000 miles.
I had an issue with the ignition switch ( 97 honda crv , 183,000 miles), no cranks at all, so i decided to take the starter off and took it to a shop for testing. It turned out the starter was working just find, so I thought it have to be the ignition switch. I put the the starter back to the car , and ready to take off the ignition switch, but i decided to reconnect the battery and try to start the car one more time, for my surprise the car started right on. Since the problem is gone, I have a feeling that i will have an issue in the near future with the ignition switch ,since already have 183,000 miles never changed the starter or ignition switch. What would you do ?
Bro you forgot to mention the biggest problem, how cooked the owners are 😂😂. Seam seal in the roof channels and firewall near the cowl can split and leak ussualy after cleaning dirt and grime away.... fun times. Good video dude, much love from new Zealand
This is exactly my problem!! Water leak on drivers side somewhere up near the firewall. And there’s zero info on that. All kinds of info on the passenger side leak but never on the drivers side. Great video. Thank you for taking the time to make these vids on the first gens!!!
I have owned a 98 CRV since it was new, a common problem I have had is that the electronic air control valve bolted to the back of the intake manifold becomes fouled, causing rough idle. It needs to be cleaned with brake cleaner every 10,000 miles or so. Keeps the car idling smooth.
I'm thinking I need to do this because I had surging idle with IACV DTC for a second.
Every 10k miles sounds like over kill lol maybe once a year🤷♂️🤔
@Danny Martinez well every 10k miles is once a year for a lot of people
@@jacobgillean7129 I never had issue bruh
@Danny Martinez same here. But my friend has had that issue on one of his crvs and his del sol
*1999 CR-V EX, 267K miles two years ago the a/c compressor went (part $168/ + $120 install) and charge, 2 rear links and the cruise control does not work, the clock in the center of the console doesn't work and I had to replace the door pull latch drivers side, $11 for the part and about 20 mins of my time. That's it. Best car I ever owned.*
wow thats awesome! just got a 2004 crv 170k in immaculate condition and i mean immaculate! hope to see it get to the 267k
The clock didn't work in mine when I first bought it. I took it out, disassembled it and followed a tutorial on here to reflow solder. Worked like a charm. Just be careful when removing it from the dash as the dash is soft and likes to crack when leveraged against. :)
@@kirleyq1394Thanks!
@@gailmrutland6508See video: Honda Cruise Control Fix With A Penny_ DIY Jeff
I am not sure, but the above YT video MAY be the fix your cruise control issue.
And read the comments section afterwards, because there's an adjustment. See 5th comment down, made by @itzmrfizz
@@kirleyq1394mine dont work either
98 5 speed with 362k. Thankfully fixed nearly everything listed here already.
Same here - these cars rock!
I live in South Africa and own a 98. Most issues you mention I have dealt with. One issue that there was with mine is on the ignition switch. There is a small harness about 4 inches long that connects the ignition to the wiring harness. The ignition wire fails, causing the car to cut out while driving, and you have to restart. In the beginning it happens intermittently, but get to a point where you start the car and it dies immediately, and to replace it costs a small fortune in my country. I solved the problem by brigding the ACC switch and the ignition switch with a small piece of wire. This was 9 years ago and never had problems again. Only drawback, when you switch the car on at ACC the dash lights up. Hope the advice helps someone
I'm gonna buy my first CR-V tomorrow. 1998 with 85,000 miles. This video help me a lot
Dang! Low miles!!!
Nice. I recently bought a 1999 LX with 58,633 from a little old lady neighbor. I had a 2001 LxX that I had bought brand new. Your videos are the best.
Did you get it ? How much did you pay? I'm going to see a 1997 someone is selling for $2,900
Yes ! Nice low miles!
Is it still running?
I inherited a first-generation 98 manual CRV, and everything you've mentioned is exactly what's wrong with it right now 🤣 awesome vid dude!!
Look up gene Kim n Robert breaker on UA-cam
I swapped the rear diff for the unit from the 2008-11 Element, and it makes a huge difference! Drives much more like a car, the original diff makes it feel like a heavy truck, even though it's a unibody.
I have a CRV from 99, 147 hp, and i'm interested.
Besides the quieter move how about the power ?
How difficult is to replace the diff ? Does it fit ?
@@adihus67 It's not hard to replace the diff, it's very accessible. The power feels much better, it completely changes the driving feel of the CR-V, feels like a nimble car instead of a truck, even on the snow. It's an exact fit because they used the same casing as the original unit, which makes sourcing one difficult, they only way to tell which one has the upgrade is by model year.
I didn't notice any difference in noise between the new and old diff, but neither seems loud
My 2001 manual 5 speed in newly painted Milano red will hit 300K soon. I do all maintenance myself & it runs like a dream. I've experienced about half the issues you list & some you haven't. The last part I replaced was a door lock actuator. Those $9 aftermarket actuators are junk! My CRV is only the 2nd car I've ever owned & I just turned 60 yrs old. My last car was a Mazda RX7. Only Japanese.
Nice! We have 2 '93 rx7s
I saw a bright red 2001 recently. Couldn’t believe how nice the new paint job was. Did you have a chain outfit do the work or local shop?
@@gomertube Went to Maaco. Filled any dents myself to save money. $1300. I was told I didn't need their premium paint job. No orange peel & damn looks brand new.
@@darrylstevens2556 Thanks, man.
Just FYI on the passenger side water on the floor. I have dealt with this issue on a few of them. On the roof there is a black strip that runs from the windshield to the rear window. There is a body seam under that trim and the sealant cracks. The water enters the body seam, runs down the a-piller then behind the dash and onto the floor.
I'll definitely check that out as I have one here now with that problem
I also have the same problem
A cruddy door seal will also cause a "leak" onto the front passenger floor.
currently I need advice how to deal with mines I have the 1998 model with sunroof and when rain fall heavy both passanger and driver side water on the flooring please what cause this really need to get this sought out soon as possible. could it be the sunroof rubber need changing if so where can I source the rubber online to purchase. Help anyone please how to deal with this problem.
How would you fix that?
Great informational video. Was able to fix the clock in my old first gen with a $10 sottering iron. Only issue i had for the 30,000 miles of ownership i had was a sticky thermostat. Sold it to a good friend with over 300,000 miles on the odo and its still going strong
I've fixed a couple clocks over the years. I dont even bother with them now
Huh?
I tried to fix my clock with a solidering iron, I plugged it in, came on for 2 seconds and went back out.😐
I tried to solder as much as I can but couldn't get under a circuit board plate..the plate is like glued on.
For the clock I bought.a LED kit on Amazon for about $10 that fits inside the existing case. No battery required if you hook it up to the exiting car battery wiring. Voltage divider (2 resistors) will reduce the voltage down to under 4 V. All the old clock components get tossed.
@Darryl Stevens can you please link me to the led kit you used? Also tried to solder two diff oem clocks, works intermittently. Seems like the problem is in the wiring harness which i’d rather not deal with. Clock seems to work when moving harness in diff positions
@@druf. try this you tube video. I did not use the supplied battery though & instead connected to my car battery but dropped the voltage down to under 5V using 2 resistors.
ua-cam.com/video/_DfmCX9mzDw/v-deo.html
Thanks for the vid. I love my 1st Gen CRV. I do have some issues but for the most part, these cars are tanks. A true testament to Japanese quality cars when they were still made in Japan.
I love them man
@@hondaresource Quick question for you, a while back I had an issue with the transmission slipping. (I had the transmission rebuild but still giving me problems, diff issue) .What is your recommendation when it comes to transmission and giving problems on this gen 1 Vs. Do you look for a wrecked one and swap it? (but I am afraid I am just buying time before it happens again). What's your take on this? I know the gen 1 Vs are notorious to have transmission issues. Thanks in advance for the comment on my question. And awesome content on the channel. You got a new subcriber here. :)
@@itsjiraheta I had the 2 trans oil sending units replaced and the trans goes good now....only issue is I get a small clunk when going into 2 nd gear....but I'm having trouble passing emissions because it still trigger's the check engine light....The Tork converter ......I'm looking to get a used trans on eBay or Junkyard.....then having it installed.....But common problem......
@@SaulnowPaul77722 Thanks for the info. I just hit 200k. Doing a lot of work on it. I went to a junkyard and got me some some working selenoids. I hope that helps me. Doing a transmission flush too. Ill share my findings. But, I have heard the same thing. That tends to be a common problem. Thanks for the reply.
I have 1997 Japanese RHD! Love my little Beeden! I am a mail carrier in the north. AWD handles snow like a champ!!!
The automatic transmission models often experience a shift flare when shifting into 3rd gear and a shudder during deceleration. The driver’s side window motor tends to weaken over time, causing the window to roll up slowly. The ignition lock cylinder can also bind, usually due to metal powder from the worn-down key accumulating in the cylinder. Blowing it out with compressed air worked for me.
Additionally, the driver’s side power door lock may start making a buzzing noise and eventually stop locking the door. I cleared out the dust from the lock assembly, and it’s been functioning well for the last 10 years. Another common issue is the muffler-to-intermediate pipe connection breaking due to rust.
These are a few extra things that weren’t mentioned in the video.
You are BRILLIANT !! ❗Thank you for all your video's. I in past years all I have owned are older Honda CRV's. I don't want to own anything else.
Not sure what would cause a smell
Have you had any problems with your automatic transmission if so can I ask you a question I have a 2000 CRV $204,000 MI....
The only thing more quirky than a CRV, is a CRV owner.
I was wondering where that leak was coming from. Thank you for the great info.
In my '01 it's not a leak as such but a dirty, cruddy door seal that directs water into the car. The seal has a fold that has to be opened up and cleaned out. I use the car key because it's pointed but blunt and won't puncture the rubber.
Completely right about working in the rust... Did my 99 crv's front suspension recently and the driver side came off okay, passenger side every second bolt needed to be drilled out or cut through. I can say from personal experience, a grinder doesn't nicely fit where most those bolts are and cutting through suspension components is a hell of a lot of work lol. At least I have a sweet CRV now though I suppose...
Great video man love your videos on these v's. You and couple other people i follow on the internet saved me lots of money learning how to repair things. I really appreciate it. Keep up the great work!!
Awesome man, I'm happy to have you here
@@hondaresource Je suis réparateur au Togo Badou Wawa La boite automatique PNRD21Sa déplace lentement pas de force
I have 1995 model and still running good today.
Awesome
I bought mine with a valve seat issue, I had a machine shop fix it and has been great since, I did the oilpan updated gasket when I had the cylinder head off, I'm sure mine needs the front swaybar links and change rear diff pump fluid, great little car with it's own table.
wow the timing on this video is great for me... just now noticed a significant amount of moisture green mold under my mats after 17 years of having this car. it's always stayed dry until recently after we moved from our place that had a covered carport.
I hope you get it fixed!
Impressed, pretty much nailed all the challenges of owning a much beloved first gen CRV. Thanks
just bought my first car and it was a 2001 honda cr-v thanks for the video i learned a lot
Awesome
I have a 99 and I have had almost all of these issues. We’re just working on the door wiring now 😅 love her
You are spot on Sir…have had most of these problems…still a tough little car
Hey thanks for the video, I have a 01 crv and I bought it about 2 years ago and I love it even with all the millage "230" it's still running solid but it's doing something that I don't know what it is, ans what it's doing is that the engine stops for no reason even when I'm driving in the middle of the road, then I Have to pull over and let it rest for 15 minutes and then I cracked and it's back to life and it's doing it more and more, I think it's a sensor or gas pump I don't know,
Either main relay or distributor 99.9%
Full distributor or maybe if its hot out vapor lock, weak fuel pump.
Did the same & it was the relay switch
I’m having the same issues. I’m about to change the main relay today and see if it fixes it. Knock on wood! Will update if it fixes it
@@adamtjapkes7804 did it work ?
I recently acquired an 01' V and it had a burnt Cyl 3 exhaust valve. JDM B20B. Pulled the head. Lapped valves. Replaced burnt valve and seals. Installed and it runs great but seems to be consuming a ton of oil. Think I've got bad or stuck rings. It also does this super weird thing where it starts great cold but when warm it long cranks and barely sputters to life. I'm currently chasing that issue. And per your valve lash vid, lash is spot on. I really took my time with that so I don't think that's the issues. 175 miles so far in this rebuild. 😊
Great content, man! You're one of very the few relatable content creators on this topic! I'm heavily contemplating on getting a Gen 1 2000/2001 CRV -- can you talk on their 20+ year old automatic transmission? What to look for before buying, it's reliability and it's maintenance? The local buy & sell groups seem to sell the AT (automatic transmission) at a much affordable price than the MTs, buy Im quite wary of the AT's possible issues and upkeep -- especially on a 20+ year old Honda. I've never had a AT vehicle ever, but I'm so tempted to get one on a gen 1 CRV! Keep the informative content coming, and thank you!
generally they are pretty solid. The auto will most likely fail before the manual.
Thank you for all the valuable info. The one serious design fault that has bothered me is how the rear tailgate works. It is instinctive to just go straight for the handle on the tailgate, if you dont know to first lift up the glass. Obviously, as the owner, it is not a problem, but generally when someone else opens the back, they just open the tailgate, so that the glass gets forced up and drops again.... and then, if they try to close the tailgate, it will just break the glass. The printed warning is difficult to see, and pretty useless.
The other irritating issue that I have noticed, - my CRV has the built in roof racks that run above the doors. Pretty useless compared to those that run perpendicular over the roof, and also no sensible way to tie ropes.... but the worst issue is that there is a gutter to collect rain water that runs under the roof rack, and there is a post just above the front door, so when it has been raining, and the roof is wet, when you brake, all the water runs forward, hits that post and then pours down the window.... if the window is open, it pours down onto the driver - happens to me often, and I curse myself for not anticipating it.
They fixed it with the 2nd gen. 😂
It's so you can fit a surf board in the back. Just need a bungy cord to stop the glass rattling around. Also kinna handy for long planks of wood.
@@stevesimpson5994 Could tie the surf board on the roof rack if the bars were perpendicular.
Just did a boatload of work to mine, including engine swap, most of the suspension replaced. just had one horn go out, which killed the brake lights, etc. Fixed that, and the rear washer. The only thing left is the Cruise control, which used to work and a front end alignment.
I'd be very interested in a common problems with the 2nd gen CR-V, as well!
I can definitely do that
See my content.. we deal with 2nd gens
Yeah, that would be a good idea...
thank you lord for this channel, video, and comment section!
Welcome!
I am 72 . live in Argentina..but I am ready to buy ..I want to say thank you for you generosity sharing your knowledge...thank you.
Glad I could help. Best of luck with your CRV
Thanks. very clear filming of under the car and front end. Crv is a good car but this is the first time I have had this kind of car (2002 crv) which you can remove oil filter by turning the poassanger wheel to the right and you see the oil filter, just newly I found this by myself , otherwise is very hard to remove oil filter from under the car!
I just had all the frame bushings renewed in my 1st-gen CR-V - MUCH quieter now. Also had the door wiring problem - had the dealership do all the soldering - pretty good job - still works.
I bought my '98 CRV in March of that year and it currently has a little over 292k miles under her belt so I'm coming from a place of experience. I've found checking/adjusting the valve clearance every 30k miles to be overkill. I slowly kept extending the intervals to see if it made any difference, I now do it every 50k miles and even at that interval I usually only have to adjust several exhaust valves to the loose side of specs. Last year I replaced the original lower ball joints with the Proforged brand which I've had good luck with when I replaced the outer tie rod ends around five years ago. Another thing to watch is the condition of the rear trailing arm bushings which I replaced last year as well. Great video!
Awesome, yeah I was just going off what Honda recommends
IVE BEEN SEARCHING YOUR CHANNEL FOR A RACK AND PINION REPLACEMENT VIDEO FOR 1ST GEN 4WD OR POWER STEERING PUMP IF YOU HAVENT MADE THEM YET PLEASE MAKE ONE NO ONE ELSE HAS AN EXCELLENT WAY OF EXPLAINING THE PROCESS LIKE YOU IN THE CORRECT DETAIL. I THINK I KILLED MY POWER STEERING WHEN I PUT IN THE WRONG FLUID AND ITS JUST PISSING FLUID SO I THINK I MAY HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY.
Thank you! I haven't made a video for doing the rack and pinion yet. It's not a fun job. I can make on for the pump at some point.
@@hondaresource CAN I USE A POWER STEERING PUMP FROM THE JUNKYARD BECAUSE I PUT REGULAR POWER STEERING FLUID IN MINE AND IT STARTED LEAKING LIKE CRAZY. WOULD I HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE SYSTEM TO INSURE THAT NONE OF THE AMERICAN FLUID IS IN THE SYSTEM?
Another issue water leaks comes from front hood cable through the fender into the cabin room. There is one hole with rubber seal. The rubber getting worn and cracked.
Mine was solve once I recover by dismantling fender and pouring water from roof.
And another way is coming from sunroof drain pipe.
The pipe is going inside the cabin and way out by the joint is located inside the cabin. You may found behind the aircond motor blower.
Hope this will helps those who are looking for solution.
Sunroof isn’t a factory option here. There were a few that were dealer added or aftermarket but not oem.
USE THE BEST JAPAN PARTS YOU CAN FIND!
Use Sankei 555 suspension ball joints, tire, rod, etc. NGK, NSK, NTN, Ishino Stone, etc. You’ll be glad you did.
Solid advice
I have a 2000 lx 5 speed grey but no arm rest on the front seats
I have a 99 CR-V My door wire harness was pinched BAD. 22 WIRES going to the door!. I spliced in a foot of new wires in between....44 connections! Luckily, I was a car audio installer in a previous decade, so it was more pain in the neck than anything else. I'm hoping to install 2 inch spacers soon, and get my baby BACK on the road! The guy that I bought the car from had let a ball joint go for a long time, and it made a seal go in my steering rack, with an endless drip. I'm replacing THAT too. I don't consider that a "common" problem.
Man your crv videos are great, I've had a lot of these issues with mine. Nice crocs btw lmao
I love the Crocs man
@@hondaresource never had a pair, might have to try them out
@@brandonjones5637 me either until about 2 months ago. Now I wear these things like everyday
Thank you so much for this video! Possible there's a little differential chatter in the front? I have that chatter on mine but it seems to be coming from the front. My model is manual transmission if it makes a difference.
I’m having the worst trouble with my 2000 Honda CR-V manual. About 4 or 5 months ago, it started stalling at idle and it idled a little rough. About 3 months ago it started stalling why I was driving it. I bought an Ancel OBD2 and it would throw random codes. One day it would say O2 sensor (upstream), then P1399, P0300, and P0301-304 (all cylinders misfiring). One single time it threw P0505 (idle control system), and P0122 (TPS switch A circuit low). There was no rhyme or reason to it, the codes would be here today and gone tomorrow, replaced by a different code. The short term fuel trim was all over the place at idle (-7.0 to -17.6). I checked every single vacuum line for vacuum leak, with an entire can of brake cleaner, but nothing.
We have replaced, O2 sensor, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, distributor (with new cam sensor), TPS,
and probably half a dozen other things that I can’t remember at the moment.
We drove it to my mechanics, I would only make it a few miles and it would stall. I had to wait 15 minutes, without ever trying to crank it, before it would crank again and go another few more miles. On the last 10 miles, I got in behind a person driving 35mph and it never stalled again, which honestly had me baffled. Anyway he put it in his Snap-on machine and it came up “Temporary Code List, DE0604H/1455032, Refresh To OEM.” So he’s at a loss as well.
Ok, after writing a book about it (sorry about that), the only thing that I believe that can be it is the ECU/ECM.
My husband says that the only thing it needs now is a match in the gas tank. 😒😂
Have you ever experience anything this mysterious with a first Gen CR-V, or am I just having bad luck?
Sandra I'm having the same problem. Did you solve yours? If so please let me know. Thanks
Great content my bro. Love your videos. I own 2 first gen crv’s and they’re both manual. They’re pretty rare everywhere with manual transmissions. One is a 99 lx and the other is a 01 ex. Love them both. The 01 I bought back in 2010. Picked it up from a surfer dude in Santa Barbara :)
That's awesome!
H2B swap one of the bad boys cut the Qsd kit for the starter and you ready to go
@@bakihanma7247 I'm a dealer for PLM and sell a h2b kit. It's kinda tough to find h motors around here though
@@bakihanma7247 not a bad idea. I was thinking about changing pistons and rods on the lx and boosting it. Also a custom b series tranny. 1&2 gears from 99-00 si 3&4 gears gar and 5th from integra ls.
H series are kind of hard to come by here also. I’m in California. Plenty of b series and k series though.
Love you...but when you talk about changing sway links you said just "take off the bolt"...yeah right! It just slips. Hex key doesn't grip. Sawzall and/or grinder. Waiting g for that video!
Some things easier said than done for sure
2001 honda crv gt, since new. Daily driven. Still strong.
I'm getting infected with the itch to buy one of these to compliment my GE Fit Sport and I saw one locally on the classifieds for $1500. Now that price for Puerto Rico is a red flag already, but the ad mentions that the car has a "bad" water pump. Is that something I should just walk away from because of a greater issue(head gasket?) or something a timing belt kit can cure? Great video and thanks for sharing!
maaaan i wish i woulda known about this channel 2 yrs ago when i spent months trying to figure out what the clunking noise was on my 99 crv. finally figured out it was the tie rod end. but man, it was such a PITA to figure out exactly what it was.
edit: wow, my clock is broken too! it's been broken for years.
Welcome aboard!
Buy a LED clock off of Amazon that fits inside the casing. Skip the clock battery & wire it to the existing car wiring. Reduce the 12V to under 4V using voltage divider. I used 2 resistors.
Valve stem seals, upper control arm, cv boots and sway bar bushings...
Yep yep yep
@@hondaresource Yea man sorry I hadn't reached back out to you about my questions all these months. I think it was instagram. But it was concerning the fork and shocks. But I'll get back to you on that.
Great channel! Just got a 2001 for my grandson first car. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Awesome, I hope he enjoys it!
Some other problems that can occur: Axles can break causing clunking from sharp turns. Back window mounts break. Valve stem seals tend to wear out and cause oil to burn and come out the exhaust while idling the car and will eventually clear up when driving. doors mechanisms some times freeze and become stuck shut not a fun time trying to get it to release as if it locks again it will be stuck again. Windshields are prone to rocks xD just in my luck.
I just bought one really cheap and it literally has everything you explained. 😂😂😂 not more not less. I got the clock working for a minute but it failed again.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Replaced those noisy tie rod links on my 01 with 130000 miles on it today only problem I’ve had is the clock doesn’t work
Oil leak, assume oil pressure sending unit first if in that area. Rear wheels splay out, adjustable top camber links.
Crazy, I have a 5 speed first gen CR-V in this same clover green, so this video was a godsend for my clicking suspension lol
Hopefully you get it figured out. Occasionally I see the sway bar bushings go bad but most likely it's the end links
Mine too , exact , 2000 crv ex 5 speed ,
Look up gene Kim n chuck missler on UA-cam
I'm working on the mother in laws 2000 crv and I'm not having any luck finding the 56 tooth gear for the pass. Power mirror. Any help would be awesome,, finding a complete mirror to swap it out is almost impossible in Michigan.. your videos have saved me frustration and her $$$. Thank you.
Only solution I would have is replace the mirror.
Found a replacement for it in the same faded red.. thank you for your time.
Also a problem I noticed is that when leaves fall into the fresh air vent they start to biodegrade, creating soil that clogs the drain in the pan which causes water to pool and moldy smells.
Oh, I was waiting for you to have nailed the PGMFI and/or main relay problem, notorious for most Honda models of these years range. The cold solder joints on the PCB board, easy to fix or replace.
The main relays can definitely be an issue!
You right man, baljoint lower or upper, and tie rod end inner or orther are a serious issue people should investigate and replace immediatelly for any bought used car, because you dont want to be driving or inside a car when the balljoint or tie rod end got broken, and even the towtrack driver will charge you double to tow your car with broken balljoint, but he will tow broken tierod end if nothing happen to the wheel itself (somtimes broken tierod end will cause the balljoint to get broken and the wheel get disconnected from the car, if your are driven with hight speed in highway, ofcourse if you and your car survive the problem, broken balljoint in hight speed in highway may cause multiple crushes with other vehicles, oh man You dont want that ), it happen to me but i was in a local street street going with low speed, stopped immeddiatelly, pusshed the car to a closed parking spot and fixed the problem next day, took me two days to fix it.
Yep, super common issue on these
@@hondaresource not just this model, but i have seen other car brand with broken balljoint on the road example the big SUV chevrolet suburban that used as taxi carservice, this model got its balljoint broken too soon, atleast honda crv got its balljoint broken after 225000 miles, but the suburban have less than 100000 miles.
😎 One thing that was an issue in the first generation was the ignition switch some they warranted others it's a quick fix just swap it out but If you don't the whole car will just shut off.
I've definitely dealt with that issue several times across many of the 90s era Hondas
I FIXED MY HONDA 2001 thanks to this MAN!
yes absolutely remove the freon first!
@@hondaresource WOAH!!! I was just gonna say SCREW IT but woah you saved my ass!!!
I GOT CODE P1361 I researched it and it’s coming out to a speed sensor. What do you say about the code? Please help
Have an issue with engine skipping when air conditioning clutch kicks in... what's the fix?
Water leakage in the front seats comes fom a hole in the floor which corresponds with the sunroof..
Another problem are the valve seals, they must be replaced at 150-200 000 km.
Otherwise you will face oil consume..
Lambda sensor also must be replaced after 200 000km
Hey there, aMy ac works but if I shut it off and turn the heat all the way up it's not blowing hot air, just warm ambient air...temp gauge on cluster is normal. Air is blowing normal rate still...where should I check first? Really hoping it's something easier than a heater core 😫
i have a 97 honda crv with a b20b4 engine that has a bad valve lifter can you make a diy video on how to replace a bad lifter cause i dont have $3000 to take it in to the shop to get it fixed plus ive been trying to learn how to fix parts on my car myself and your videos really help me out with that
Thank you for all the information my friend
Question about a 1999bhonda crv automatic
Rebuild transmission should I buy it or decline thank you
Heyyyy just watching this video. I already identified some issues! thank you
I had my valves adjusted on a '99 CR-V in Canda, and it costed $415.xx CND tax in. I supplied the valve cover/spark plug ring gaskets. I looked under the hood and noticed that it didn't even look different, and I had a certain zip tie holding my ignition wires in place and my ground wire looked the same last time I close the hood and (just did an oil change myself). Should I be suspect?
I have 2001 1st generation CRV LX AWD Automatic with 135,000 miles on it, which I bought new in 2001. It’s in pretty good shape. I love this car. I’m hoping to keep it running as long as I do. Thanks for all your great advice. Have you run into issues with vibration sounds coming from the catalytic converter?
Heat shields rusting off?
@@hondaresource no, internal. It causes sort of a “blasting” sound maybe coming out of the exhaust pipe. We (one of my mechanics, although sometimes I do the work myself) think it’s the Catalytic Converter.
@@pwoc94110 I've seen them melt and pieces break loose
Love your videos ! I live in Michigan and have a 99 CR V that’s got an engine light stuck on but my mechanic guy who works on cars out of his garage says it’s nothing to worry about ? Say what ? He says it’s got to do with gas tank ? Can ya help me ? I may as well go to reg shop have an inspection instead of guessing lol 😂
Most auto parts stores will check the codes for free
Not tightening up the gas cap enough after refilling. Click close at least 3x and after the next few times of refilling gas the engine light may turn off
Love your videos keep up the good work.... please i have a question for a first time car buyer who is still learning to drive which do you advise on getting the first or second CRV will really appreciate your feedback
I have a 2001 Crv and the transmission failed once, had it completely rebuilt for $2K and lasted only two years and I found out that these Hondas have notorious weak transmission problem from Crvs to civics all the way up to pilots and odyssey models
Okay I have some questions about these...
In July 2024, how much would you say an LX first gen cost?
How many miles will the LX's last?
Are there any issues or things that I need to look out for when buying one?
Would you say that the majority of the first gen LX's came in manuals? (I want a manual one)
Lastly, I really realy enjoy these videos thank you
Price varies by region and I would say that here in Southeast US there are way more autos than manuals. The main things I would look out for is oil leaks and ball joints. If you do buy an auto make sure it shifts good before you purchase it.
@@hondaresource Thank you very much.
Hi, you've got a great collection videos here! Thank for sharing them with the public! I have fuel injector leaking to the intake side of the engine on my -99 CR-V. Have you got ideas how to make it stop? I've already bought and replaced a new injector o-ring, but it did solve the issue
replace the injectors.
Hey I'm looking to buy a 2000 one and every thing seem fine til when first started and when turning the steering wheel makes the car idle very low to the point that it wants to stall out. Would you know what could be the problem ?
Just got a 24yo CRV mt and def thinking thermostat stuck open. Takes a long time to warm up, heating not as hot as it should be and the coolant temp drops considerably when downhill or driving in cold/rain. My mpg is not great and i get fluctuating idle and revs upon clutch disengagement. Im thinking the engine constantly thinks its in the "warm up" mode and throwing the wrong air fuel mix in there, is that a reasonable guess?
great video!!!! now my question: 2001 CRV EX, 330K miles. situation: hot weather in central TX, cranks, rough loping idle, sounds like it's flooded, smells like it's flooded. maybe icm? thanks for everything.
I would look at the ect sensor under the distributor.
@@hondaresource i just replaced it about a year ago. any preferred brand i should be using? i'll swap that sucker out again. thanks a bunch!!!
Hello boss missed the transmission popping into first gear aggressively. Thx had 2 with same orob
I have two 1st gen CRVs. Both Red. One is AT, the other stick, so we named them Otto and Manuel. Anyways, I would add the upper control arm bushings in the front and lower control arm bushings in the rear. Manuel we have had 10 years, Otto we have had 6 years and they are pretty robust. Manuel had a burned valve for the previous owner and after I got it the vehicle was stolen and came back with a miss...I adjusted the valves and its been great. 219k on one, 239 on the other. MN vehicles...rust in wheel arches other than that they look pretty good.
Oh and both cars had an issue where they would not start Rather than pay big bucks for cap, rotor whatever I just went to Ebay and got a complete distributor ---everything in one fell swoop for like $55. 10 minutes to swap them out and running great
Awesome man! I'm glad to have you here
Whats the difference between the various trims (LX, EX, SE)? I have a 2000 CRV but can't figure out which trim it is.
From what I know SE model is the fully loaded one
Like all the black bumpers and plastics are painted to match the rest of the crv
ua-cam.com/video/2mQHSYvdhig/v-deo.html I cover the differences in the trims in this video
If your handles/mirrors are black it’s an LX. If your interior is leather it’s an SE. Otherwise you have an EX.
thanks for the response. My sideview mirrors are same color as the exterior paint, and the interior door handles are chrome colored. I think it's an EX
@@Aryahmmr I meant like leather seats not interior handles haha. I think the chrome interior handles were an option/accessory. But yeah if your exterior handles/mirrors are painted and you have cloth seats it’s probably an EX
The rusting rear subframe connectors and torn torque mounts are super common.
We dont have rust here in Alabama so I have little experience with it
@@hondaresource you wouldnt think kansas would be bad for rust, but those bars trap water. Just rewired drivers door wire bulkhead today..
Hi big fan of your videos. Very helpful. But I a question what's making my honda 98 crv turn off while driving . I have replaced fuel pump fuel filter. A few relays also . Wait about 5 10 mins turns back on .
I would say either your distributor or main relay
Do you have a video on how to check why the cruise control isn’t working on a 98 Honda CRV LX? Thank you in advance.
Can I drive a 2001 Honda CRV AWD without the driveshaft in place from the transfer case to the rear diff? We used to live in NY but moved to Florida so I don't need AWD here. The front tires are getting more worn and I heard if you have tires more worn on the front then the back, you could do damage to the tranny/transfer case.
Good video, lots of info, im having the issue when driving and i turn i would have to return it to center myself rather than it returning when you let go of the S. wheel, much worst in the highway, hence i've done 2 full wheel alignments but still cant figure it out for the of me.
I haven't seen an issue like that with any here.
I have a Honda CR-V 2001 in New Zealand and they seem to get roof rust under the rubber channels and also around the rear mudguards the one I have for parts has rust in the same areas.
The Statham is hott!!
Have you ever thought about having your Dome piece straight razored or Bic?
lol I used to keep it shaved
Dude I hate working on a rusty car 😢 appreciate the video 👍🏼
I have some questions and need help . Guidance with some things with my first gen! That leak u Dee the glove box I sealed the windshield with marine silicone has not leaked flood since. I love this car.
Awesome
Love your videos.
2 issues I had with my 2000 CRV was a faulty distributor that I replaced, and the cat blocked up and needed to replace the whole exhaust. Have you ever dealt with those problems?
Thanks
I've delt with plenty of distributor issues. Not very common for the cat to be blocked.
Are parts for this model available online? I´m always worried about that while shopping for an older car.
Hey there thank you for the video I have a 98 Crv and when I reverse it makes a noise up front two tires and its only when I reverse almost like metal slipping and gripping but idk would you happen to know what it possibly can be?
hard to say without it here.
Hey, have you figured out what the issue was? Im having the same exact problem on my 1999 crv
Looking at buyin a 99EX Auto with 190k miles. Say everything works right, few minor issues that can be easily fixed, almost perfect body and good running engine/trans. Would you buy it? Still a lot of life left?
Sure, they are great vehicles
How about that dreadful ignition switch? I've known for the past year the switch needed replacing, but the problem has morphed into a crank/no start. None of the dash lights come on when key is turned to run or start. There are no fuses blown. The two phillips head screws that hold the plastic contacts/wiring have cammed out on me, so I'm getting ready to dremmel a slot in the breakaway bolt so I can just remove the entire assembly. These screws bring me back to when I had the front of the engine disected for timing belt, water pump, CFS, torque mount and motor mount, and a bunch of other repairs. Someone went crazy with the loctite and used the stuff on fasteners that did not require it, causing me ro round off several bolts, incl. the timing cover and the timing belt tensioner. That tensioner bolt was no joke and required extended work-around, since there wasn't enough room to use the proper "rounded bolt remover" and that bolt being gr. 8 and extremely hard; using a cut off wheel on a dremmel was slow-going. when the bolt finally came out, the loctite had been applied to the entire threaded section. That experience was worse than the crank bolt!!! I remember you answering several questions for me, and on the same day I typed them. Hard to forget about that, since you put me on the right track. I later discovered that the exhaust cam was off by one tooth. I became highly proficient in tearing that B-20 down in record time. The CRV has been running excellent and no further issues until this ignition switch. The first symptoms including the engine dying out at the worst possible time and loss of power steering during the event. It would always restart like nothing happened, and it was random - 2-3 times a month. I was able to duplicate the problem by wiggling the wires and turning the key ever so slightly. Keep up the good work and I hope you and your family are doing well.
I have a 97 and its shuts off randomly while driving on the highway. Everything on the dash lights up then the engine turns back on but it will not go forward after only in reverse. Mechanic says to sell it as I have it towed but once he gets it to his lot its working again with no lights on the dash and no codes show up on his reader. He cant figure out what it is and says it will cost me moee than its worth to figure out. Do you have any sugestions? It only has 110,000 miles.
I have pondered over this for several days and I can't come up with a legitimate resolution.
Update. We flushed the transmission fluid, installed a new shift solenoid and a used computer from another RD1. Its now running better than before.
I had an issue with the ignition switch ( 97 honda crv , 183,000 miles), no cranks at all, so i decided to take the starter off and took it to a shop for testing. It turned out the starter was working just find, so I thought it have to be the ignition switch. I put the the starter back to the car , and ready to take off the ignition switch, but i decided to reconnect the battery and try to start the car one more time, for my surprise the car started right on. Since the problem is gone, I have a feeling that i will have an issue in the near future with the ignition switch ,since already have 183,000 miles never changed the starter or ignition switch. What would you do ?
Bro you forgot to mention the biggest problem, how cooked the owners are 😂😂. Seam seal in the roof channels and firewall near the cowl can split and leak ussualy after cleaning dirt and grime away.... fun times. Good video dude, much love from new Zealand
Thank you man
This is exactly my problem!! Water leak on drivers side somewhere up near the firewall. And there’s zero info on that. All kinds of info on the passenger side leak but never on the drivers side. Great video. Thank you for taking the time to make these vids on the first gens!!!
I agree with you jay bilawchuk !!! I have a leak on the drivers side too. So annoying!!!
The alternator is giving me issues.
40 amp option fuse u nder hood of 98 Honda crv i pulled out and accidentally dropped it nto area under fuse box. cant see or get to.
awesome, thanks! mine is a 98. 430 000 km on her. will check those points you mentioned. thanks
Mine makes a noise when turning and accelerating slow, I replaced control arms and nothing changed
Sway bar maybe?
distributor issues??? why would my 98 eat distros? usually about 1 a year? is it the valve adjustment? thanks!
Window regulator especially driver side, door lock actuator, ignition coil/ igniter, upper control arms.
I've definitely seen all of those