@@TexasRigour ah shit my bad, didn't even look at time stamps here xD I understand, same here. I actually watched this just for the fuel line portion xD the instructions my guy gave me, made no damn sense xD
REMOVING ENGINE LIFT BRACKETS on the 3800 V6 S2 RWD -- Everyone is here for this comment, lol: Discovered oil in my coolant in a recently acquired 1995 Firebird with this same engine. Since I knew I'd have to dig down to the LIM gasket anyway, I took the opportunity to replace the valve cover gaskets/grommets, plenum gasket, thermostat, and heater elbows, plus clean out the throttle body and oil + coolant flushes. The biggest bitch of this already difficult (see: cramped) job is the ENGINE LIFT BRACKETS located at the rear of the engine on the passenger side, and on the front of the engine on the driver's side. These brackets each block one bolt holding on the valve covers. Don't listen to the yokels who tell you to hammer it out of the way or some other nonsense - you're more likely to damage the engine than make a dent in the brackets. The driver's side one comes off pretty easily. You can see the two bolts + one nut holding it on and remove it permanently without any ill effects. the rear passenger one is the bigger pain. Bolt #1 on that bracket is accessed from underneath - you should be able to reach up with a 13mm box-end (at a point about even with the back of the frt/pass wheel well) and knock that sucker loose. It may take a while, but that seems to be the best way to get enough leverage and room to work with. The second bolt is trickier - it's actually a stud that goes into the head. I didn't have enough room to work with this part until I'd removed the plenum. There is a 13 mm nut securing a transmission disptick tube bracket onto this stud. remove that easily enough, and then there's a 13mm nut affixed to the stud... turn this to remove the stud, and thus the engine lift bracket. Even if you don't put the bracket back on when the work is done (as I didn't), be sure to replace this stud and resecure the transmission dipstick tube bracket.
Same. The torx had been stripped out by the time I got the car. I thought I was going to have to JB weld a torx head into the bolt, but I ended up tapping an appropriately sized allen wrench into the holes and got enough bite to break them loose
For future reference, the map sensor bolts are not torx heads. They are some stupid bolts heads that gm manufactures and maybe other auto makers do too but they aren’t torx and when I was cleaning my map i found a set of them so it didn’t strip anything
thanks for the video. my intake plenum gasket failed and developed a coolant leak through a bolt. swapping in a new gasket tommorow on my 1997 camaro 3.8 v6 stick shift
@@freethevibez yeah it was all burnt up because I didn't have enough coolant cycling through the engine before 😑 it was like a crispy burnt potato chip
At 2:05, you can clearly see the alternator is still in place and that the serpentine belt is still on. Again, you can see at 2:33, it is still there. Then when it cuts to taking the fuel lines off, the alternator is gone (and the belt). Obviously a chunk of the work here is missing.
You've moved the transmission dipstick, is it from the bottom going into the transmission? I'm working on a 97 Camaro and as you probably know, that firewall is right there and making it difficult.
any advice for the last two books behind the lower manifold? I've got 10 out and can't seem to locate the last 2. literally the only thing left before I can pull it.
10 mm, 13mm, and 15 mm box-ends or sockets for much of the work. The intake bolts are 3/8" - don't use equivalent metric for those or you may risk damage to the intake/bolts
hi very good video :) i have question . where i can find torque limits or infos ? work is not hard with this video , but i dont have torques infos . thanks for more informations . do i need new screws for intake manifold or i can use old used screws ?
thanks for the great video, I cannot for the life of me figure out what that sensor is coming out of the passenger side of the upper intake plenum I need to buy a new one, does anyone know what it is? Sensor goes into a 3/4" hole and has vacuum tubes on it.
Depends on you skill lvl. If you are new... a few days... also the weather... but with the right tools and in a enclosed environment.... around 5 (five) hours to take off and rebuild.
Krock Tv fuel line disconnect tool. You can get a cheap set from harbor freight. The lines are 2 different sizes. I bought mine from pepboys it's 1 tool has both sizes on it.
Use Sound,, Really ! Always remove the belt and tensioner first ! Finish the Video to ! Cut off the video right when people are waiting to see the main part ! PSshhh
Guys is it possible for a bad cats to cause gas going into the oil pan? When i turn the crank with a 24mm socket the engine turns a couple times then it gets extremely hard to turn. I have to lean on it with my body weight and it will slowly turn. Then it loosens up again and then turns regular again. If. I keep turning it i would have to repeat the process stated above. What does this mean?
any advice for the last two books behind the lower manifold? I've got 10 out and can't seem to locate the last 2. literally the only thing left before I can pull it.
Just for sake of the video not showing the last 2 bolts remove the gasket and look inside the manifold the last two are in the internals of lower manifold
also you dont need to remove the ignition control bracket just the ignition control module Loved the video btw just did this job yesterday and worked great putting back together today maybe could add video of torq sequence and ft lb - in lb i think its 11 ft but sequence i cant post in this
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally someone with the v6 firebird guides
So true.
Use camaro's of the same year. Same engine designs. Haynes manuals show you that
@@maniac5123 Four years late, I knew that lol!! Prefer watching someone working on their cars instead of reading simple instructions.
@@TexasRigour ah shit my bad, didn't even look at time stamps here xD I understand, same here. I actually watched this just for the fuel line portion xD the instructions my guy gave me, made no damn sense xD
REMOVING ENGINE LIFT BRACKETS on the 3800 V6 S2 RWD -- Everyone is here for this comment, lol: Discovered oil in my coolant in a recently acquired 1995 Firebird with this same engine. Since I knew I'd have to dig down to the LIM gasket anyway, I took the opportunity to replace the valve cover gaskets/grommets, plenum gasket, thermostat, and heater elbows, plus clean out the throttle body and oil + coolant flushes. The biggest bitch of this already difficult (see: cramped) job is the ENGINE LIFT BRACKETS located at the rear of the engine on the passenger side, and on the front of the engine on the driver's side. These brackets each block one bolt holding on the valve covers. Don't listen to the yokels who tell you to hammer it out of the way or some other nonsense - you're more likely to damage the engine than make a dent in the brackets.
The driver's side one comes off pretty easily. You can see the two bolts + one nut holding it on and remove it permanently without any ill effects. the rear passenger one is the bigger pain. Bolt #1 on that bracket is accessed from underneath - you should be able to reach up with a 13mm box-end (at a point about even with the back of the frt/pass wheel well) and knock that sucker loose. It may take a while, but that seems to be the best way to get enough leverage and room to work with. The second bolt is trickier - it's actually a stud that goes into the head. I didn't have enough room to work with this part until I'd removed the plenum. There is a 13 mm nut securing a transmission disptick tube bracket onto this stud. remove that easily enough, and then there's a 13mm nut affixed to the stud... turn this to remove the stud, and thus the engine lift bracket. Even if you don't put the bracket back on when the work is done (as I didn't), be sure to replace this stud and resecure the transmission dipstick tube bracket.
Thanks for the upload, tackling this tomorrow and was bit worried about clearance issues. I feel much better after watching this.
This is still a really good video, I like how the lowers intake is cleaned off before it says remove lower intake
Just like in the 80s and 90s Saturday car shows lol.
same engine as my 96 maro. in other words, Big Sub from a fellow 3.8l v6 diy enthused owner
I'm doing this now and the MAP sensor bolts are insane
Same. The torx had been stripped out by the time I got the car. I thought I was going to have to JB weld a torx head into the bolt, but I ended up tapping an appropriately sized allen wrench into the holes and got enough bite to break them loose
LyricalToxin I just went ahead and took the upper intake manifold off first before the fuel rail lol
you have more deft fingers than I do, then, buddy, and probably a better mind - I didn't even think to try that
LyricalToxin nah I just don't mind my arms being torn up by the windshield cover thing
For future reference, the map sensor bolts are not torx heads. They are some stupid bolts heads that gm manufactures and maybe other auto makers do too but they aren’t torx and when I was cleaning my map i found a set of them so it didn’t strip anything
thanks for the video. my intake plenum gasket failed and developed a coolant leak through a bolt. swapping in a new gasket tommorow on my 1997 camaro 3.8 v6 stick shift
Did the gasket look bad?
@@freethevibez yeah it was all burnt up because I didn't have enough coolant cycling through the engine before 😑 it was like a crispy burnt potato chip
Saving my Firebird... loved your brake down.
Anyone has questions I would love to help.
Leon Hager I'm haveing a hard time so I have to take the intake off or the heads 1st
Leon Hager help
I do lol I've removed all my bolts and I still can't get the manifold off is it possible it's froze there
@@jessepacheco6347 The lower intake? There are two hidden bolts
Would love to see this reuploaded with some audio that would help me while doing the job
thanks for this vid, pretty helpful
excellent video ....thanks for your help !
good video. thank you.
Great video thanks!
At 2:05, you can clearly see the alternator is still in place and that the serpentine belt is still on. Again, you can see at 2:33, it is still there. Then when it cuts to taking the fuel lines off, the alternator is gone (and the belt). Obviously a chunk of the work here is missing.
Its 4 bolt bro no big deal. The 2 big ones in the front, the alternator wire and a little star bolt on the back.
You've moved the transmission dipstick, is it from the bottom going into the transmission? I'm working on a 97 Camaro and as you probably know, that firewall is right there and making it difficult.
Buen video amigo. Thank you
any advice for the last two books behind the lower manifold? I've got 10 out and can't seem to locate the last 2. literally the only thing left before I can pull it.
If you were to take on this work at a shop what would the customer (me) be looking at ?
My fuel line don't come off that easy
were is part 2 !!!!!
i wished you used tools, cause I'm stuck
+Droopy Johnson what you stuck on ? Just use basic hand tools for the most part !
10 mm, 13mm, and 15 mm box-ends or sockets for much of the work. The intake bolts are 3/8" - don't use equivalent metric for those or you may risk damage to the intake/bolts
hi very good video :) i have question . where i can find torque limits or infos ? work is not hard with this video , but i dont have torques infos . thanks for more informations . do i need new screws for intake manifold or i can use old used screws ?
11 ft pounds on lower and upper intake. Go in a star like pattern though.
thanks for the great video, I cannot for the life of me figure out what that sensor is coming out of the passenger side of the upper intake plenum I need to buy a new one, does anyone know what it is? Sensor goes into a 3/4" hole and has vacuum tubes on it.
MAP sensor.
Im having trouble with the MAP sensor. What do I use to losen the bolts? I'm assuming that has to come off to take off the fuel rail?
Can I remove fuel rails without disconnecting fuel line
how many hours does this project take
Depends on you skill lvl. If you are new... a few days... also the weather... but with the right tools and in a enclosed environment.... around 5 (five) hours to take off and rebuild.
Is there suppose to be no sound? Lol
Or is it just me
No sound on this one ☺
any suggestions on the two rear bolts on the lower manifold? also did you have to pull the inhibition control mod bracket to get the lower intake off?
No sound ?
You removed the tensioner for no reason
He also only had 2 of the 3 tensioner bolts shown being removed. He also missed showing the 2 bolts inside corners of the intake.
Iits no other video about these engines about taken th heads off in
Haveing trouble
At 4:06 what is that thing that is on the back of the evap solenoid?
At 4:03 does anyone know what the tiny hose in the back goes to?
i got a intake manifold leak on my 98 firebird its leaking coolant...what do i do?
Same thing in my 97
What you use to get fuel lines off
Fuel line disconnects...
where did byou get your upper plenum gasket
summitracing.com
Also... I've never see or had a gasket come off in one piece. Must be fake. Haha.
I had an 06 Saturn Ion with 180k on it and the exhaust manifold gasket was still in perfect condition.
What's that tool you use to take the fuel lines off
Krock Tv fuel line disconnect tool. You can get a cheap set from harbor freight. The lines are 2 different sizes. I bought mine from pepboys it's 1 tool has both sizes on it.
I hate comments
Use Sound,, Really ! Always remove the belt and tensioner first ! Finish the Video to ! Cut off the video right when people are waiting to see the main part ! PSshhh
I’m hoping to be able to film mine. I’m doing so this weekend hopefully.
You know what that hose is at 2:15 can’t find it anywhere
Guys is it possible for a bad cats to cause gas going into the oil pan? When i turn the crank with a 24mm socket the engine turns a couple times then it gets extremely hard to turn. I have to lean on it with my body weight and it will slowly turn. Then it loosens up again and then turns regular again. If. I keep turning it i would have to repeat the process stated above. What does this mean?
any advice for the last two books behind the lower manifold? I've got 10 out and can't seem to locate the last 2. literally the only thing left before I can pull it.
Just for sake of the video not showing the last 2 bolts remove the gasket and look inside the manifold the last two are in the internals of lower manifold
also you dont need to remove the ignition control bracket just the ignition control module Loved the video btw just did this job yesterday and worked great putting back together today maybe could add video of torq sequence and ft lb - in lb i think its 11 ft but sequence i cant post in this