If the bearing is gone, then it is probably time for a new compressor, it shouldn't be missing unless something major is wrong with the casing making it fall out.
Hey awesome video! I'm doing the exact same thing but I'm having trouble finding snap ring pliers that will fit into that small crevice... would you mind linking where ever you got yours? thanks!!
What I have actually done it took a pair of long needle nose pliers and grinded the tip thin to fit in the hole of the snap ring. I believe snap-on has a good set but it's pricey. if you look around online you need to find one with long thin tips
www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-94222-Internal/dp/B01JBIM2CU/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=snap+ring+pliers&qid=1595205064&sprefix=snap+ring+pliers&sr=8-11 I believe this set would work fine
I was having the same issue with the snap ring holding the coil in place but I found a snap ring plier at northern tool that got in there no problem for only $8
Once you get your pressures correct after a vaccum pull then it's good. I can't remember the exact number of weight but it was about a pound. So my can had more than a pound so I know not to use the whole can or it will overcharge and cause compressor failure or other issues.
we are at with this one too dude..i think it may of spun idk...it's still popping clicking/ticking like it obviously can't recharge it..idk some cans are kinda wierddd too....swapped all the relays/fuses look good blinking like somethings messed up tho...it's not good and that's the one drunk into the night belt left off and it's stuckkk on there down there stuff etc lol.
The pulley bearing was making a chirping noise. I bought the dorman clutch kit and installed it without disconnecting the AC lines. The Dorman snap ring for the coil didn’t clear so I used the original one. The snap ring for the pulley I used the new one because it allows the snap ring pliers to get in the holes easier. If the snap ring is installed sideways from the bottom of the vehicle you need to fight to get it to rotate down to get the snap ring pliers in the holes. It was a bitch but I got it done
@@buntongm not true, Once you have the system evacuated, there is a certain amount of pag oil that is drawn out with the Freon but saved in a different container. It’s not only the compressor that contains pag oil , the evaporator ,condenser, accumulator and hoses all contain some pag oil as well .If you had it professionally done and there were no leaks then the shop should of put it back into your Ac system free of charge because it was already paid for, the Freon and pag oil is temporarily stored in their recovery/recycling charging station. However you would still need to replace the dryer if the system is left open for more than 24 hours. Not to mention you had the Ac compressor open all this time while cleaning it and replacing the clutch and coil, who knows how much dirt and moisture got inside , and you didn’t even bother to check and see how much pag oil was left inside the compressor. It looked like it was dry to the bone since you had it upside down and no pag oil leaked out. A lot of peeps might end up screwing up their ac system if they are not careful.
@@big_mac6037 this is true but this replacement was done in the driveway, the refrigerant that was added contains page oil in the can. I have been a certified technician for Honda for over a decade, almost 2, and I can assure you that no more than an eighth of an ounce will be extracted through the recovery procedure unless the system was previously way overfilled with page. At the end of the video I did pull a vaccum on the system to eliminate moisture from having the lines disconnected. And this model vehicle is not equipped with accumulators.
@@buntongm I was just trying to point out it’s not as easy as it looks I too am a mechanic for audi over 20 years. I was not trying to disrespect your vid. Overall it was quite good Cheers🤘 Also I was wondering why not just remove the clutch and coil without removing the compressor ?
Actually this job can be done without illegally discharging Freon into the atmosphere. To do this job correctly without removing the a/c lines refer to Honda TSB 12-072 and the job will go much smoother if you use the correct tools.
This is precisely why in my video I said to take it to a shop to recover the refrigerant like I did! Thanks for following my instructions per the video! The tsb has you change it out while the compressor is still in the car. BUT!! Doing it at home without a lift it is far safer doing it this way rather than relying on laying under a jack stand. Notice I didn't jack the car or remove the wheel....
Awesome video! I like the background New Age music. Question: Did you evacuate the refrigerant or just loosened the High n Low fittings at the compressor?
Whoever is watching this keep in mind that compressor has oil in it and if u just start lugging that thing around like he is and don't take out the oil first it's going to be a big mess and you'll need to buy more oil to replace it. And also very importantly make sure your system is completely out of refrigerant/ depressurized before doing this if not you'll have many many problems. And it is a health hazard.
I would have just replaced the compressor. You get everything brand new including the bearings and Thermo Switch. I know you can just change out the clutch but why bother. A compressor is only $155 from Rockauto. But seriously this job requires refrigeration knowledge and the proper tools and reclaimer machine. Be careful.
I understand that a Chinese compressor is as little as $150 but it will wear out after a year of use. The OEM compressor can last 20 times that. So why not change a failed electrical portion of an outstanding quality part. Just my 2 cents, I have been repairing hondas professionally for 15 years and see it over and over again. But yes it does require refrigerant handling for either repair and it is best to take it to a professional to recover the system and recharge it
This is true but they will most likely fail within two years due to poorly constructed cases. And you will have be to keep replacing them over and over. Or I have seen many times the aftermarket compressors will send metal shavings throughout the system and when that happens the metal shavings will either clog the system or scrape against the rubber hoses as it circulates and contaminate the entire system. It is called black death in the Honda world. It is worth looking up before you install an aftermarket compressor casing. Trust me I have worked for Honda for over a decade, you don't want that to happen. It is way better to leave the quality oem casing and replace just the failed outer electrical coil and clutch. It is cheaper for now and in the long run!
Very good job, thanks for sharing! My AC stopped working 6 months ago as the clutch was not engaging. Recently it starts engaging intermittently and it starts to make a very loud noise (see this video mega.nz/file/13R3kYgB#E1HKmwcKTT1U8onKbUrmb-h2tcM96nYTcrN9Tqf_8fU) I kept driving on it and at the end of a 15 min trip, it was smoking badly, Smoking was coming from the drive belt/compressor area. The question now, should I change the whole compressor or the clutch only? Do you think that I got the compressor locked up?
It really depends on if the pulley bearing sized or the internal compressor is damaged. If you take the pulley off and the compressor shaft spins then you can probably get away with just the pulley, coil, and clutch.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Very great video without the chat. Picture says a thousand words.
Excelent master class, no questions, all very clear
The red bearing cap at 10:11 min is gone on my Compressor. What to do now except putting a new compressor?
If the bearing is gone, then it is probably time for a new compressor, it shouldn't be missing unless something major is wrong with the casing making it fall out.
HOLA , AMIGO , CUANTAS ARANDELAS LLEVA EL COMPRESOR ENTRE EL EMBRAGUE Y LA POLEA
How did you discharge your R134a? Did you go to a mechanic shop to do that?
Hey awesome video! I'm doing the exact same thing but I'm having trouble finding snap ring pliers that will fit into that small crevice... would you mind linking where ever you got yours? thanks!!
What I have actually done it took a pair of long needle nose pliers and grinded the tip thin to fit in the hole of the snap ring. I believe snap-on has a good set but it's pricey. if you look around online you need to find one with long thin tips
www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-94222-Internal/dp/B01JBIM2CU/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=snap+ring+pliers&qid=1595205064&sprefix=snap+ring+pliers&sr=8-11
I believe this set would work fine
I was having the same issue with the snap ring holding the coil in place but I found a snap ring plier at northern tool that got in there no problem for only $8
That's a deal!
Wait, so did you just vent the existing freon into the atmosphere in the beginning to flush out the system?
Take it to a shop to professionally evacuate the freon
Thanks buddy. But why not just put the same number of chimes as the original ?
Different part means different thickness. It has to have a certain clearance to engage properly
What sizes r the snap rings?
Do you have to evacuate the refrigerant to do this job?
I think he did it illegally
Thanks for the video. Isn't the CRV supposed to be charged by weight? 18 oz or so.
Once you get your pressures correct after a vaccum pull then it's good. I can't remember the exact number of weight but it was about a pound. So my can had more than a pound so I know not to use the whole can or it will overcharge and cause compressor failure or other issues.
You did not suck the air out of the system before recharging A134. It will freeze up the line and your AC will not work properly.
A vacuum was pulled before charging
we are at with this one too dude..i think it may of spun idk...it's still popping clicking/ticking like it obviously can't recharge it..idk some cans are kinda wierddd too....swapped all the relays/fuses look good blinking like somethings messed up tho...it's not good and that's the one drunk into the night belt left off and it's stuckkk on there down there stuff etc lol.
Excelente trabajo, Tanto la reparación como el video. Felicitaciones. Me fue de gran utilidad. Saludos desde Argentina.
Nice job bud...btw, do u know the code number for this pulley bearing...?
Thanks! I'm not sure if the code number, I just went on Amazon and searched for crv clutch and coil set
The pulley bearing was making a chirping noise. I bought the dorman clutch kit and installed it without disconnecting the AC lines. The Dorman snap ring for the coil didn’t clear so I used the original one. The snap ring for the pulley I used the new one because it allows the snap ring pliers to get in the holes easier. If the snap ring is installed sideways from the bottom of the vehicle you need to fight to get it to rotate down to get the snap ring pliers in the holes. It was a bitch but I got it done
No oil added to compressor ?
The system already had enough oil, no need to add more unless it is leaking somewhere
@@buntongm not true,
Once you have the system evacuated, there is a certain amount of pag oil that is drawn out with the Freon but saved in a different container. It’s not only the compressor that contains pag oil , the evaporator ,condenser, accumulator and hoses all contain some pag oil as well .If you had it professionally done and there were no leaks then the shop should of put it back into your Ac system free of charge because it was already paid for, the Freon and pag oil is temporarily stored in their recovery/recycling charging station. However you would still need to replace the dryer if the system is left open for more than 24 hours. Not to mention you had the Ac compressor open all this time while cleaning it and replacing the clutch and coil, who knows how much dirt and moisture got inside , and you didn’t even bother to check and see how much pag oil was left inside the compressor. It looked like it was dry to the bone since you had it upside down and no pag oil leaked out. A lot of peeps might end up screwing up their ac system if they are not careful.
@@big_mac6037 this is true but this replacement was done in the driveway, the refrigerant that was added contains page oil in the can. I have been a certified technician for Honda for over a decade, almost 2, and I can assure you that no more than an eighth of an ounce will be extracted through the recovery procedure unless the system was previously way overfilled with page. At the end of the video I did pull a vaccum on the system to eliminate moisture from having the lines disconnected. And this model vehicle is not equipped with accumulators.
@@buntongm
I was just trying to point out it’s not as easy as it looks
I too am a mechanic for audi over 20 years. I was not trying to disrespect your vid.
Overall it was quite good
Cheers🤘
Also I was wondering why not just remove the clutch and coil without removing the compressor ?
Actually this job can be done without illegally discharging Freon into the atmosphere. To do this job correctly without removing the a/c lines refer to Honda TSB 12-072 and the job will go much smoother if you use the correct tools.
This is precisely why in my video I said to take it to a shop to recover the refrigerant like I did! Thanks for following my instructions per the video! The tsb has you change it out while the compressor is still in the car. BUT!! Doing it at home without a lift it is far safer doing it this way rather than relying on laying under a jack stand. Notice I didn't jack the car or remove the wheel....
Shiiiet i discharge freon in the air all day
@@pastoryoda2789 Thenyou're a piece of sh*t for doing it :)
All step clear and good advise 🎉🎉🎉
Great video. Thanks
Cool video
Did you leak all of that Frion out into the open air !!!!!! ???
No I had it evacuated with a recovery machine
Thank for vdo I am thailand
You are welcome! Thank you for watching!
Never use a 14mm spanner. Pulley bolt is going to break.
Awesome video! I like the background New Age music.
Question: Did you evacuate the refrigerant or just loosened the High n Low fittings at the compressor?
Thanks alot I appreciate it! I had it professionally evacuated.
$35,000 fine if you are caught venting.
👍
Whoever is watching this keep in mind that compressor has oil in it and if u just start lugging that thing around like he is and don't take out the oil first it's going to be a big mess and you'll need to buy more oil to replace it. And also very importantly make sure your system is completely out of refrigerant/ depressurized before doing this if not you'll have many many problems. And it is a health hazard.
I would have just replaced the compressor. You get everything brand new including the bearings and Thermo Switch. I know you can just change out the clutch but why bother. A compressor is only $155 from Rockauto. But seriously this job requires refrigeration knowledge and the proper tools and reclaimer machine. Be careful.
I understand that a Chinese compressor is as little as $150 but it will wear out after a year of use. The OEM compressor can last 20 times that. So why not change a failed electrical portion of an outstanding quality part. Just my 2 cents, I have been repairing hondas professionally for 15 years and see it over and over again. But yes it does require refrigerant handling for either repair and it is best to take it to a professional to recover the system and recharge it
The entire aftermarket AC compressor is about $120 new with warranty.
This is true but they will most likely fail within two years due to poorly constructed cases. And you will have be to keep replacing them over and over. Or I have seen many times the aftermarket compressors will send metal shavings throughout the system and when that happens the metal shavings will either clog the system or scrape against the rubber hoses as it circulates and contaminate the entire system. It is called black death in the Honda world. It is worth looking up before you install an aftermarket compressor casing. Trust me I have worked for Honda for over a decade, you don't want that to happen. It is way better to leave the quality oem casing and replace just the failed outer electrical coil and clutch. It is cheaper for now and in the long run!
Very good job, thanks for sharing! My AC stopped working 6 months ago as the clutch was not engaging. Recently it starts engaging intermittently and it starts to make a very loud noise (see this video mega.nz/file/13R3kYgB#E1HKmwcKTT1U8onKbUrmb-h2tcM96nYTcrN9Tqf_8fU) I kept driving on it and at the end of a 15 min trip, it was smoking badly, Smoking was coming from the drive belt/compressor area. The question now, should I change the whole compressor or the clutch only? Do you think that I got the compressor locked up?
It really depends on if the pulley bearing sized or the internal compressor is damaged. If you take the pulley off and the compressor shaft spins then you can probably get away with just the pulley, coil, and clutch.
Great video. Thanks.