I had that issue with my Lincoln mig. It was the liner in the gun/hose. As it gets old, wire arcs and doesn't contact and slide properly thru it. I found the aftermarket 10' gun/hose on Amazon . Works great again 👍 👌
@@SR-gt350 I replaced the entire hose and gun a short time before this video. I've since had a few welders shipped in because we review them. I haven't gotten back to trying to fix the old Lincoln.
@@walterandrews3077 I'm a lube tech, literally only use dawn soapy water, haven't had one issue, all the way from tiny trailer tires to 35 inch LT tires.
As a person who also likes to do everything themselves, I own this exact tire changer. I've had mine for about 4 years now. I've always used it as is, without any modifications other than using towels to prevent damaging the wheel. It does work but it is definitely a pain to use. Especially since the towels always slip or get caught up and you have to keep readjusting. I've saved a lot of money by using this tire changer but it has cost me a lot of time. After all the hours I've spent struggling with this thing, I now know what I'm doing this weekend! Your modification is pure genius. It's definitely going to continue to save me money and now time as well. Thanks!
Well done !!!! With these mods , you inspire us to take a device that is mediocre at best and make it much , much better !!! You explained why you wanted to do these mountings yourself and then went ahead and accomplished mounting all four tires !!! This is exactly why I enjoy your approach. You inspire !!! Thanks !!!
December 1965 the local body shop gave me a 'deal' on a pair of Good Year Surbanittes for my Mustang 2 + 2 if I mounted them myself. No problem as I had watched their technician change many a tire on their manual Coates tire changer. Until I put the first Styled wheel over the post, the center hole was too small! Shortly the proprietor appeared with an empty large cardboard carton to cover the cement floor, 2 tire iron paddles, a large rubber mallet and a can of hand cleaner to lube and seal the bead transitions. With instruction I (proudly) got the first tire off it's wheel in short time. Returning to his office I started the second that proceeded even faster until something seemed wrong. I had gotten the wheel inside both beads! Your modification upgrades to the changer duplicate the functions of the Coates changer, they also had a duckbill bar. Many times when airing up using your knee, floor and wall to form a 3 point pressure point to seal both beads.
I can definitely appreciate your modifications because I did my tires with much difficulty with the standard harbor freight tire machine and balanced with old bubble balancer that was given to me and so far I've driven over 3,000 miles, thanks for the video 👍 great job.
@@VooDoo_BlueI didn't know what that meant at first but then realized the tire was fully wrapped around the outside of the rim 😅 If the wheel is installed onto the tire rather than the tire onto the wheel I could see how that was done-
On the bead breaker part of the HF tire changer. I found that the way it comes from HF the spoon part of the bead breaker is too blunt. I took the grinder rounded and smoothed that spoon part, and it made a huge difference. with a little soap it slips right in the bead close to the wheel. and breaks the bead super easy. I recommend it to anyone who has one of these tire changers.
I scrapped my harbor freight tire changer. I wish I would have seen this video before. Great job! Harbor freight should make them like this to begin with.
Little tip for mounting tires. You can use Gojo, and a cotton brush to lube the wheel. And some shops use just plain old Dawn dish washing soap, without water and sometimes a small amount of water. It’s hard to explain what the cotton brush looks like, but it’s like a larger version of the brush you see in PVC glue for welding PVC. I’ve seen some just make a brush out of a coat hanger twisted around a couple of old shop rags. I always just used Gojo, as the tire lube. Another little trick is to mount a peddle valve to the base of your tire mounting machine that allows you to use your foot, to inflate the tire while lifting the tire up with your hands.
Yeah I use a spray bottle with a little soapy water, spray the bead down on both sides inside and out, never had an issue, also makes it easy to see if the bead has sealed as the soapy water will bubble up if the bead is leaking while you are putting air in.
That or you can buy the “mounting juice” from O’reillys I think we got ours from. Helps seat, “glue” and slip on. If aluminum rims you can add tire bead sealer as well, to help keep air in on the brisk mornings or temp changes.
Have a Baseline with robo-arm doesn't work as well as that rig there I swear 😂 a tire bar and soapy water is your best friend mounting tires. Don't know why this popped up in my feed but I enjoyed it glad it found me
Dude. I’m freaking impressed. I’ve seen other videos on modifying the Harbor Freight tire changer. And I wasn’t impressed. You impressed me great ingenuity. The only thing I’d change is the pin to lock the tire in place. I took mine out and use a bolt and nut.
I have had one of these for about 15 years. They could use the stiffenrer for the bead beaker. The cone is nice, but neesesary. Nothing esle is needed. I have done both of my trucks tires and a volkswagon several times. If a tire does not meet the rim use starer fluid and a match, be prepared to pur air int the tire before it colapses. It works!
Our welder was doing the same thing until I lubed up the spool holder, ours was binding up and now the welder works beautifully. Thanks for taking the time to show us the extras need to make this thing work better.
@@madgingercustoms check your ground clamp and connection. the teeth on the clamp are usually brass and they get dirty easily. also sometimes can get corrosion where ground wire meets box
If you don't have felt to clamp on the wire before it goes through the rollers , get some , a sm . Clamp or clothes pin to hold it . Work with it for lite pressure . Bless ya'll
@@madgingercustoms FYI, replace your inside liner for your wire feed as that wears out after a while from the welding wire running through it and will cause the intermitant surge of the wire. Also keep your liner laid out straight as much as possible and not curled up on the floor while in use, as this will help it from wearing prematurely. My Lincoln welder is over twenty-five years old and have had to replace the liner multiple times. It's a cheap and easy fix, everyone always overlooks. Hope this helps! Thanks for the video.
That was pretty cool esp with your modifications that probably made it work about 100 times better using that standard duck head part. A little slower than a nice modern tire changer machine,but totally practical for a home garage. Ingenious
Hey Boss. The wire sticking in your MIG torch can be from several things. It can be: 1.) The copper tip of the torch has melted and the wire is sticking in the outfeed hole. Replace with a new tip. 2.) The wire feed wheel is not clamped tight enough onto the wire as it feeds. 3.) The wire feed rollers are dirty. The wire that feeds through has left impurities and causes it to be slick. Spray some brake cleaner/carb cleaner on the wheels and wipe off. 4.) Last and most costly is that the liner for the wire to the torch is worn or dirty and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps.
I've also had some cheap wires like blue demon be oversized and scrape the torch liner causing lots of buildup. Switched to a name brand wire and has been problem free since. This was also on a Lincoln mig welder.
Also, not sure which lincoln welder you have, but once the wire is feeding properly, if you're not getting a good consist arc, replace the capacitor in the welder. May cheaper welders have benefited greatly doing this. Even the lincoln 110 flux core welders that were brand new.
Lots of valid suggestions for MIG arc sputtering. I saw one UA-cam channel explain that the letters for MIG stand for Anybody Can Weld. First letter of each word is silent.
This rockymntain guy is right.... Those mig welders are very moody. There are so many things going on at once for the wire to actually come out the end of your gun that the slightest little irregularity can often cause catastrophic failure with your welds. It has been my experience on most occasions that the tip has wallowed out from the constant friction and heat of the wire sliding thru it and you aren't getting the continuity of electricity between your tip and your ground so you get the result you hilariously animated at the beginning of this video. That made my day! and the little feeder wheels inside the machine do get dirty and when that happens they will just sit there and spin on the wire and occasionally catch long enough to give you a BB sized weld bead for a moment. I have used mig welders for many years and they are indeed nice machines to have.... Kind of like Gravely tractors. When they are running right they cannot be beaten but there are so many opportunities for something trivial to go wrong that it can at times be a real fight to get anything out of them but aggravation and a headache........
Great job . Makes perfect sense especially for garage mechanics who need tires changed on older or any vehicles, equipment , or wheels for painting . I plan to build the duck head accessory also . Your design is perfect . Thanks .
Great video. I used to do a lot of tire changes at the golf course where I worked. I worked for a county government and our main mechanic shop was always swamped with work. We almost never got the same tire/wheel that we sent out, so the golf section got their own tire changers. My friend worked at Vehicle Maintenance and one day, he was inflating a small tire. He had it on a bench and he was talking with another mechanic. The tire/rim exploded and took off the top half of his head. It took them months to find all of the flesh, bone and brains and clean and reopen the shop. They make a cage to put the tire in or you could make one. I would highly recommend it. I still remember being told the story by the guy who was talking to him when that happened. They guy who was killed had owned a service station, retired, and got a job with the county. He didn't need the job and it was tragic the way he died. I hope you take my advice and start using a cage. Ever since that happened, I never stand in front of the wheel when I inflate it on my vehicle. There is more power in compressed air than you'd think. Laugh and call me names if you want, but I'm talking to all of you. You don't want your family having to deal with that.
@@madgingercustoms I'm sorry. I don't think YOU would laugh. But, there may be someone who scoffs and says it'll never happen to them. I hope nobody says thàt.
I’ve never taken the valve stem out, I just use a ratchet strap, and, put it around the tire, and, tighten it up until the beads on both sides are tight, then shoot some air to it, then I release the strap, and,air it up to the suggested pressure. Works like a charm!!
Always lube the bead, so you don't mar the bead if you have to use excessive force to get it on, link on low profile tires. Good job on your first tire, a lot of apprentices don't do it as well😂. I have one of those but never used it. Yet. Great video on the mods. Def watching the bubble balancer video amd gave you a follow.
Get your self some rubber lube and keep the duck bill lubed. Also lube the tire bead before installing the tire on the wheel. The modification is well to the tire changer looks like a great improvement!
I bought my changer about 20 years ago and countless tires later using the tool that came with it and tire spoon. This is a slick set up. Thanks for sharing!
For the bead break I would use bolts as you suggested. You could also weld a steel spacer inside. Great ideas and craftsmanship. Keep up the great work.
I really liked your modifications to the tire changer. That is something that I will need to do to my HF tire changer. I took the bead breaker off of the side and cut some square tubing (it's what i had at the time) and welded the 2 flat fins on it so that i could use the bead breaker on top. I'm old with some back problems so it is much easier to use it standing up instead of being stooped over and trying to maneuver the tire around. I did however need to slip a piece of flat bar in the top to keep it from slipping up over the center spindle. Just an idea. 👍👍
Great job on the mods! The proper alignment of the duckhead is 1/8" above the rim and 1/8" clearance at the head and tail. It's also designed to move head first. In your design, you should rotate clockwise around the rim for a more effective job. Especially when you have stiffer sidewalls. Lube is your friend!! Use more soap percentage than water. Lube both beads before installing so you can wipe excess water from inside. The excess causes balance problems. Use caution when leaning over the center pipe in case you slip so you don't injure yourself. Never exceed 45psi when seating the bead for safety reasons! 💣🦺
Curious with a setup like this how would anyone be able to control an 8th inch of play in that duckbill. Theres an 8th of play or more in the arm that's holding the duckbill. Just a thought here
@@madgingercustoms I'm not sure,was hoping the O.P up top would elaborate. What I'm thinking is this 1/8 inch of clearance is so the duckbill doesnt bind up or rub tight on the rim. On a manual or "homemade" modified tire machine I dont see how you could control an 1/8" of play. I say just eye ball it, make sure it's not to tight and make it work lol👍
I had a Coats manual tire machine for many years. Always hated using the bar to remove or set the tire on the wheel. Your modification is a stroke of genius. Subbed and liked.
@@madgingercustoms Yes I seen that, I was watching and posted too early. I was a tire jockey many years ago. Soap was not only good for lubrication, but helped get off the black stuff!!
You did a good job on video and tire and great job on the rims and if I had the tools I wood do the same to the tire changer when I do get the tools I will unless you start making some modified parts for the harbor freight tire changer and then sale some already made I most likely buy one or two just to have a extra one GOD BLESS YOU AND HAPPY FATHER'S DAY
Love the mods to the tire changer. I've used nothing but 'soapy wooder' to put the tires on the rims. You'll get good enough to 'throw' the tire on the rim for one side. I also loved the 'Safety Shoes" at the beginning of the clip. In my 30 years of Marriage my wife has never come to help me in the shop. Her idea of 'helping' is to hit panic button on the truck when I am laying under it changing the oil. Keep up the vids..
Love the comment to Jess it ain’t oil for your taint. I almost croaked when you said that. She a great gal with a great sense of humor. Trust me buddy she had a better idea for that bar than putting that tire on. Content of your channel is entertaining Mad Ginger. Thanks for sharing your struggles😂😂 with us. 👍👍🇨🇦
A suggestion to help preventing the bar/ pipe used for rotating the duck head module from slipping off during use, would be: to attach a piece of flat bar or rod that's hook shaped to the end of the rotation bar, cupping around the vertical pipe section of the duck head module. There's a coloured dot on new tyres, it is positioned with the valve stem.
I been changing truck tires on my semi for years I just found out about the colored dot about six month ago that how you balance the tire on a big truck tire line it up and it balances the tires every time. My car tires dont have a colored dots on them.
And there are dimples on rims, most times anyway. Those dimples are meant to match the dots on the tires. It’s supposed to be industry standard but they aren’t always there.
@johnburton705 yeah. Typically you put the heavy point of the tire opposite the air valve on the rim as that will typically be the heavy point on the rim
I know an old fellow who runs a junkyard that sells used tires in he balances the tires with one of those manual balancers and I'll tell you what I have not had a problem with any of my tires they are on aluminum rims and the balance is perfect. Good luck with all your and thank you for your content. God is good!!!
I think it's an excellent idea what you've modified. I am watching it right now and I think you're doing a wonderful job. Keep up the good work the modifications look like they're really going to work out well
I been meaning to do this on my Northern Tool tire changer the past couple years but money was tight and never was sure on what parts to get, your links are a big help...... I really like your wife's answer when you ask her what she needed to mount the tire, she said "hammer", that was hilarious made me laugh 🤣🤣good video thanks for posting......
I love the parts where you are like, "Oh damn, jeez that actually works!" Great video, you do an excellent job of explaining your motives, methods and your hands on testing really shows the newbies how to put your plans into action. Nicely done, and the magicians assistant helping at the end is just icing on the backyard DIY Tire changer. Looks like I'm goin' to Harbor Freight.
Elegant design overall. I think it would benefit from the handles you mentioned. I have the basic tire changer and some tires are just a bear to mount and dismount. Your mods would help a lot I think.
Sand them down then put the tires on then paint afterwards. Run a little bit of tape around the outside of the rim. Don't have to worry about scratching them. I bought mine to do motorcycle tires the attachment that comes with it don't work with the motorcycle rims and tires either needs modified also. You did give me some ideas I do appreciate it!
Another note. The claw that is supposed to hold the rim to the changer. I just cut a tire sidewall into two pieces and put it between the wheel and the claw. It will prevent the claw from damaging the wheel and will hold it secure while still using the pin that came with the changer.
The pop sound that you were looking for, only happens when you have modern safety rims! The 'safety bead' was developed in the late 50s and adopted as an SAE design in the early 60s, but wasn't 'required' until the late 70s, although it was adopted by pretty much every manufacturer by the late 60s.
@@madgingercustoms I was taught to always use tubes on the rims not designed for tubes tires , as they will come off if the tire pressure gets low. "Safety first"
You should have had her pull on the bar instead of pushing, if the bar slips she is going to go face first into the ground or the changer. Also with the soft pliable sidewalls of the new radial tires you can just about push them on to the rims, or at least next time grab hold of the tire and spin it around and on to the rim. If you go and get a bubble balancer try splitting the weight into 2 small ones and spilt the difference, instead of a 2 oz weight in one spot use 2 -1 oz. ,one on the front and one on the backside of the rim. It worked very well in the 60's when I was young.
I put t a peice of 2inch galvanise pipe where you put the bar to help break tires down that really helped. Then I got me a automatic fly wheel went around it with my wealder to cover up the teth to keep it from cutting up wheels and cutting up my hands on those teeth. I broke the pipe that keeps it from turning then I put a few of holders one for transmission fluid and to hold tube of cylecone for beads that wont seal grease the tire and wheel then put athin coat of cylcone on the bead of the tire and it will not leak. Then I wealded the platform feet to the bottom of the stand. And a lazy susan to spin the tire when braking it down. The fly wheel for table to sit tires was the best thing I did it really help holds the wheel. And the holder helps to hold valve stem wrench and setms that really help. I use gas to pop the bead it works better that eather, eather some times it wont light plus gasoline has a pop to get the bead on the wheel. also I wish I hadn't painted the tire break arm yellow it help to keep people from runing over it in the dark, You can tell when people have been looking through your stock and if it isn't painted yellow it tells who is looking becaus it will catch you right on ther shin. You'll learn quick where it is. Good show thanks Almost forgot get you some liitle c-claps and tape the contact points to keep fron scratching that helps keeping the tireunder the lip when putting it back on.
I really like your mods and it worked perfectly! The only suggestion I would make is to weld a piece of small round stock on the end of the tightening bolts (to make them T bolts) so you wouldn't have to use a wrench to tighten them. Good job big guy!
I have one of these HF tire machines. I used it to mount LT tires on my Bronco. Like you, I wanted to clean and paint the rims before putting the new tires on. I sure could have used the duckbill and the adapter to center the wheel to make things easier. I appreciate the information on the modifications. Did your new tires have balance marks on them? Thanks again for the video!
8:00 Strongly suggest pushing the tire bead down into the inner section of the rim, to allow the section you are forcing over the rim, to have as much freedom to stretch as possible, which will also save tearing the bead as you work. That's why all rims, have a middle section MUCH SMALLER than the main rim edges. Long time ago, I learnt that simple trick when changing bicycle & motorcycle tires, (with a couple of tire levers (or screwdrivers) as there was no way to rip the bead over the rim, without moving the rest of the bead, into the inner rim concave area. When I saw you doing the initial removal, it was extremely difficult as the bead was NOT in the inner (looser) area, but close to the main bead rim, hence why it seemed tight at first. Oh that and the fact that you pulled it the WRONG WAY with the red bar. You lifted the bead up above the duckbill with the silver bar this side, which meant the duckbill would have kept lifting the bead if you had placed the red bar THIS SIDE of the center and pulled the wheel around the other way. Talk about making things hard on yourself Trev. Yes it will eventually rip the bead up & over the wrong way around, with the rest of the bead HIGH up on the rim's inner surfaces. It would have been far easier, with the red bar on this side "pulling", allowing the duckbill to do the lifting, with the entire tire (halfway) down at the middle of the rim, allowing the bead to slip up & over correctly. Try it next time and wonder why you didn't read the instructions - eh?
Yes I just bought one of these and tried it out and of course the bead breaker bent. And the giant rod they give the end was welded so poorly it's stuck a piece of metal in my hand. Then when I put the tire back on I could get it 3/4 of the way on but they made the stupid end of the rod wrong and it couldn't do it the whole way. So I had to use my motorcycle levers for motorcycle tires to get it on the rest of the way. I see you basically redesigned the whole stupid piece of crap. A work of genius by you but really, all that work to make a piece of crap work somewhat. You might as well have redesigned the whole thing yourself
Yeah the bead breaker is almost useless for anything stubborn but the duck head mod makes it very easily mount and dismount tires honestly. My wife had no trouble even with my horrible instruction!
I would tend to agree with you, Scotty. USE their ideas, but make it with better structural steels ; keeping an eye on ' leverage '....KISS method ( keep it simple, stupid Peter )
I just watched your video before this one. I make/modify a lot of stuff, even made my own smoke machine but you can get a cheap tire machine AND balancer for $600. I have also used the exact same tires that he used however they are trailer, not car, tires....
Remember, at 8:08 the LAST thing you need is for the center screw-down tube to "loosen" while you are pulling the red bar around, (from the car towards the camera towards you then past the boat & back to the car) so as it spins TIGHT with this side turning towards the yard, and the other side towards that old car, turn the red bar THE SAME WAY ROUND, which allows the silver bar to hold he bead up enough, for the duck-bill to do all the bead removal (and the rim is held firmly by the center "threaded" clamp, so that you don't cuss and swear when it all comes loose.
The duckhead is a game changer. I catch myself telling old geezer stories lately. Back in the day when you bought a set of tires, the mounting and balancing was an extra 4 or 5 bucks a tire. These days, 20 bucks a tire is common. 30 or 40 bucks a tire is not rare. The machine pays for itself the first time you use it pretty much. Plus, you can do your tire work on your schedule.
You can use a wooden handle (hammer) or a little strip of wood to pry against to get that valve stem in without damaging the wheel. You can weld a small piece of bar stock to those bolts on your rig to make them T-handles. Then you won't need any other tools to tighten them.
I have a set of 44” Super Swampers you think you could do them for me?! Lol.. awesome job and great job fabricating the tire machine! Next time I think you should have socks on with your sandals just incase you drop something on your foot!! 😂 again you guys did an awesome job and can’t wait to see more videos! The car is really starting to come together!! It’s gonna look great with the red rims!
I have to agree with Jess. Your instructions left a little to be desired, but I’m sure if she had watched you do the other 3 she probably could have done that one on her own. Overall that is a great modification to the basic tire changer and other than needing a bit of elbow grease it’s nearly as easy as using an actual air powered machine. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Too bad the manufacture of these don't realize the buying public would gladly spend the extra money for it if they would have included this design with the product. I want something that functionally works well over a cheaper price. Now I and everyone else has to spend the time and money for this modification for a good product, when we shouldn't have to.
I enjoyed your video. I understand changing tires as I worked for a Tire shop when I was younger. I have the same tire changer already. I intend to purchase the need axtra items and build the duckbill adapter. Thank you for the info and instruction. Jess did a great job.
Use Good Dish Soap for installing Valve Stems , Can pull em through with one quick tug. They also make a tool for Installing valve stems Without Needing to break the tire down at all. Also use Tire Lube or Soap on the changer head . Lube is key for a good tire install & for a Good Bead seal .
Basically informative and entertaining. I did not think I would sit through the whole rigmarole of the process...but ..it was fun to watch. Thanks. B.V.
I prefer to mount my own tires .. Because I clean up the bead area with a wire wheel grinder.. and I use Frey lube Rim grease on the beads.. I got a quote of $4.00 per wheel at Sam's Club for balancing. I think they would dismount old tires and mount new tires for the same price. Many places got $7.50 to balance a mounted wheel a few years ago .
Very helpful, bought a duckbill and changer. Just been moving it around. I took a screen shot of your set up. Thank you. I miss having access to a pneumatic tire changer.
I've had one of these for years and love it! I mounted it to square steel tubing and slide it into the 2" receiver on my 4x4 vehicle. Great to take with on trail rides or vacations! 👍
I have to commend you for the way that you did. I have had one for years and have made a lot of additions to mine but I really like that duck bill addition that you did. I have unmounted and mounted many tires in my time with this tire changer. I do have many other tire tools that are old and new. I have even bent the bar that is used to remove and install the tires. I wanted to make a thing like you did but I didn't know that the parts were able to be bought, I've been fabricating different things like the duck bill but now I'll just buy one. Thanks for making the list of parts that you used to make it easier to purchase the parts that I need. Thanks and GOD BLESS YOU SIR!
I found l can change 17" tires no problem no modifications, however l found the red barrel to short and l use the lower bolt hole on the bead breaker. I use a cloth and vise grippers on the rim edge and then the bead is forced up instead of the extra bar. The other thing l do is weld a 6 " pipe to the bar so l can control the bead lifter on the red bar so it can not rotate In my hands and l can keep the bead bar vertical while rotating during the prying the bead up off the rim. I use a peice of tubing over the rim clamp against the upside of the rim and l just use a cloth on the end of the bar to protect the rims edges sometimes it is better just to use the tire iron to pry on the tires instead of the rotation method because you can protect the rims edges with a cloth around the tire iron. But interesting modifications your doing definitely has merit.
Watch the follow up video here!! ua-cam.com/video/r1ncuxGHcIc/v-deo.htmlsi=P_qW-Tq3UXcR3scR
Easy 'er wet always wet your bead
I bought one of those
I bought one of those two from
I had that issue with my Lincoln mig. It was the liner in the gun/hose. As it gets old, wire arcs and doesn't contact and slide properly thru it. I found the aftermarket 10' gun/hose on Amazon . Works great again 👍 👌
@@SR-gt350 I replaced the entire hose and gun a short time before this video. I've since had a few welders shipped in because we review them. I haven't gotten back to trying to fix the old Lincoln.
Handy tip: Before you attempt mounting a tire, soap or lube the bead. It makes things so much easier.
Thanks!
It helps to get in on and to set the bead when inflating for sure!
Definitely. Amazon to the rescue.
A solution of Murphy’s Oil Soap works well and you may have some already.
@@walterandrews3077 I'm a lube tech, literally only use dawn soapy water, haven't had one issue, all the way from tiny trailer tires to 35 inch LT tires.
I'm totally saving this video for when I buy one of those tire changers! People like you keep the world turning! 👍🏽
Thanks for watching us!
The world, as well as wheels!!
No No no, Loving keeps the whole world turning but money greases the wheel!!! Its a song you might wanna look it up, lol
Nice mod work! Will be getting a HF changer soon! Thanks for taking the time to post this great information. Cruise on...
Good job being descriptive
She is a good sport!!!
My wife would go back in the house.
😂😂😂😂
She's a good egg.
As a person who also likes to do everything themselves, I own this exact tire changer. I've had mine for about 4 years now. I've always used it as is, without any modifications other than using towels to prevent damaging the wheel. It does work but it is definitely a pain to use. Especially since the towels always slip or get caught up and you have to keep readjusting. I've saved a lot of money by using this tire changer but it has cost me a lot of time. After all the hours I've spent struggling with this thing, I now know what I'm doing this weekend! Your modification is pure genius. It's definitely going to continue to save me money and now time as well. Thanks!
Thanks for watching and check back in on this post and let me know what you think!!
Well done !!!! With these mods , you inspire us to take a device that is mediocre at best and make it much , much better !!! You explained why you wanted to do these mountings yourself and then went ahead and accomplished mounting all four tires !!! This is exactly why I enjoy your approach. You inspire !!! Thanks !!!
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
December 1965 the local body shop gave me a 'deal' on a pair of Good Year Surbanittes for my Mustang 2 + 2 if I mounted them myself. No problem as I had watched their technician change many a tire on their manual Coates tire changer. Until I put the first Styled wheel over the post, the center hole was too small! Shortly the proprietor appeared with an empty large cardboard carton to cover the cement floor, 2 tire iron paddles, a large rubber mallet and a can of hand cleaner to lube and seal the bead transitions. With instruction I (proudly) got the first tire off it's wheel in short time. Returning to his office I started the second that proceeded even faster until something seemed wrong. I had gotten the wheel inside both beads!
Your modification upgrades to the changer duplicate the functions of the Coates changer, they also had a duckbill bar.
Many times when airing up using your knee, floor and wall to form a 3 point pressure point to seal both beads.
I can definitely appreciate your modifications because I did my tires with much difficulty with the standard harbor freight tire machine and balanced with old bubble balancer that was given to me and so far I've driven over 3,000 miles, thanks for the video 👍 great job.
@@VooDoo_BlueI didn't know what that meant at first but then realized the tire was fully wrapped around the outside of the rim 😅
If the wheel is installed onto the tire rather than the tire onto the wheel I could see how that was done-
On the bead breaker part of the HF tire changer. I found that the way it comes from HF the spoon part of the bead breaker is too blunt. I took the grinder rounded and smoothed that spoon part, and it made a huge difference. with a little soap it slips right in the bead close to the wheel. and breaks the bead super easy. I recommend it to anyone who has one of these tire changers.
Solid idea. Thank you
I scrapped my harbor freight tire changer. I wish I would have seen this video before. Great job! Harbor freight should make them like this to begin with.
It's decent with the modifications.
Why don't you make a modification kit and sell them? Not everyone is brave enough to learn to weld.
@@jondoe3179 There is a duck head already on the market for around $100
Little tip for mounting tires. You can use Gojo, and a cotton brush to lube the wheel. And some shops use just plain old Dawn dish washing soap, without water and sometimes a small amount of water. It’s hard to explain what the cotton brush looks like, but it’s like a larger version of the brush you see in PVC glue for welding PVC. I’ve seen some just make a brush out of a coat hanger twisted around a couple of old shop rags. I always just used Gojo, as the tire lube. Another little trick is to mount a peddle valve to the base of your tire mounting machine that allows you to use your foot, to inflate the tire while lifting the tire up with your hands.
I use wash and wax car wash, has some anti corrosion properties, found that dishwash can cause problems
It's called a dish mop
I use tire dressing. Armor All, Black Magic, Meguiars,etc.
Yeah I use a spray bottle with a little soapy water, spray the bead down on both sides inside and out, never had an issue, also makes it easy to see if the bead has sealed as the soapy water will bubble up if the bead is leaking while you are putting air in.
That or you can buy the “mounting juice” from O’reillys I think we got ours from. Helps seat, “glue” and slip on.
If aluminum rims you can add tire bead sealer as well, to help keep air in on the brisk mornings or temp changes.
Have a Baseline with robo-arm doesn't work as well as that rig there I swear 😂 a tire bar and soapy water is your best friend mounting tires. Don't know why this popped up in my feed but I enjoyed it glad it found me
We are glad you watched it as well!
Good job! You made a cheap tool functional. The fact that it didn't damage the paint on the wheel is impressive.
That plastic duck head is the key I believe! Thanks for watching.
Dude. I’m freaking impressed. I’ve seen other videos on modifying the Harbor Freight tire changer. And I wasn’t impressed. You impressed me great ingenuity. The only thing I’d change is the pin to lock the tire in place. I took mine out and use a bolt and nut.
Yeah we ended up drilling ours and using a bolt as well.
I have had one of these for about 15 years. They could use the stiffenrer for the bead beaker. The cone is nice, but neesesary. Nothing esle is needed. I have done both of my trucks tires and a volkswagon several times. If a tire does not meet the rim use starer fluid and a match, be prepared to pur air int the tire before it colapses. It works!
Thanks for watching!
Our welder was doing the same thing until I lubed up the spool holder, ours was binding up and now the welder works beautifully. Thanks for taking the time to show us the extras need to make this thing work better.
I'll be checking the welder out this week. Thanks for your suggestion! I'll look into the spool holder dragging.
Lube, it's what separates us from the Animals 😂
@@madgingercustoms check your ground clamp and connection. the teeth on the clamp are usually brass and they get dirty easily. also sometimes can get corrosion where ground wire meets box
If you don't have felt to clamp on the wire before it goes through the rollers , get some , a sm . Clamp or clothes pin to hold it . Work with it for lite pressure . Bless ya'll
@@madgingercustoms FYI, replace your inside liner for your wire feed as that wears out after a while from the welding wire running through it and will cause the intermitant surge of the wire. Also keep your liner laid out straight as much as possible and not curled up on the floor while in use, as this will help it from wearing prematurely. My Lincoln welder is over twenty-five years old and have had to replace the liner multiple times. It's a cheap and easy fix, everyone always overlooks. Hope this helps! Thanks for the video.
That was pretty cool esp with your modifications that probably made it work about 100 times better using that standard duck head part. A little slower than a nice modern tire changer machine,but totally practical for a home garage. Ingenious
Thanks!
Plus about $ 2,500 cheaper than a modern tyre machine
Ya i like that you welded that weak bead breaker , even with bead lube that wouldn't brek the bead for me so you helped me bog time thanks.🎉
Thanks for watching!!
I appreciate you both and find you entertaining and informative. Today I learned I'm going to keep tossing money to the tire store.
I can see both sides of that, yes.
Hey Boss. The wire sticking in your MIG torch can be from several things. It can be: 1.) The copper tip of the torch has melted and the wire is sticking in the outfeed hole. Replace with a new tip. 2.) The wire feed wheel is not clamped tight enough onto the wire as it feeds. 3.) The wire feed rollers are dirty. The wire that feeds through has left impurities and causes it to be slick. Spray some brake cleaner/carb cleaner on the wheels and wipe off. 4.) Last and most costly is that the liner for the wire to the torch is worn or dirty and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps.
I'll certainly look into it and thanks for the suggestions!
I've also had some cheap wires like blue demon be oversized and scrape the torch liner causing lots of buildup. Switched to a name brand wire and has been problem free since.
This was also on a Lincoln mig welder.
Also, not sure which lincoln welder you have, but once the wire is feeding properly, if you're not getting a good consist arc, replace the capacitor in the welder. May cheaper welders have benefited greatly doing this. Even the lincoln 110 flux core welders that were brand new.
Lots of valid suggestions for MIG arc sputtering. I saw one UA-cam channel explain that the letters for MIG stand for Anybody Can Weld. First letter of each word is silent.
This rockymntain guy is right.... Those mig welders are very moody. There are so many things going on at once for the wire to actually come out the end of your gun that the slightest little irregularity can often cause catastrophic failure with your welds. It has been my experience on most occasions that the tip has wallowed out from the constant friction and heat of the wire sliding thru it and you aren't getting the continuity of electricity between your tip and your ground so you get the result you hilariously animated at the beginning of this video. That made my day! and the little feeder wheels inside the machine do get dirty and when that happens they will just sit there and spin on the wire and occasionally catch long enough to give you a BB sized weld bead for a moment. I have used mig welders for many years and they are indeed nice machines to have.... Kind of like Gravely tractors. When they are running right they cannot be beaten but there are so many opportunities for something trivial to go wrong that it can at times be a real fight to get anything out of them but aggravation and a headache........
Great job . Makes perfect sense especially for garage mechanics who need tires changed on older or any vehicles, equipment , or wheels for painting . I plan to build the duck head accessory also . Your design is perfect . Thanks .
Thanks!!
The red rims with the trim ring and center cap are classic. That will look great!
Great video. I used to do a lot of tire changes at the golf course where I worked. I worked for a county government and our main mechanic shop was always swamped with work. We almost never got the same tire/wheel that we sent out, so the golf section got their own tire changers.
My friend worked at Vehicle Maintenance and one day, he was inflating a small tire. He had it on a bench and he was talking with another mechanic. The tire/rim exploded and took off the top half of his head. It took them months to find all of the flesh, bone and brains and clean and reopen the shop. They make a cage to put the tire in or you could make one. I would highly recommend it.
I still remember being told the story by the guy who was talking to him when that happened. They guy who was killed had owned a service station, retired, and got a job with the county. He didn't need the job and it was tragic the way he died.
I hope you take my advice and start using a cage. Ever since that happened, I never stand in front of the wheel when I inflate it on my vehicle. There is more power in compressed air than you'd think.
Laugh and call me names if you want, but I'm talking to all of you. You don't want your family having to deal with that.
I'd never laugh at that. Thank you for your concern!!
@@madgingercustoms I'm sorry. I don't think YOU would laugh. But, there may be someone who scoffs and says it'll never happen to them. I hope nobody says thàt.
@@martinphilips6091 Great story!! Not laughing.
Sorry for the dude, but it was probably a split 2 piece rim that came apart, on a car rim there really isn't anything that could go flying .
Split rim all the way, that's what the cage is for, not for a standard wheel like this.
This is exactly what I was thinking on making for my hft one. But didnt know how to make the arm thing. Thanks alot
Thanks for watching!
I’ve never taken the valve stem out, I just use a ratchet strap, and, put it around the tire, and, tighten it up until the beads on both sides are tight, then shoot some air to it, then I release the strap, and,air it up to the suggested pressure. Works like a charm!!
The ratchet strap was going to be employed if I couldn't get it started. I used them on motorcycle tires!
@@madgingercustoms Them thangs work good, don’t they?!! 😉
You don't take the valve stem out. You take the valve core out of the stem. This allows more air to enter the tire faster. No need for a strap.
Saw a guy get hit in the peas once when the ratchet strap broke/came loose unexpectedly. It gets real tight real fast when tire starts taking air.😂
Always lube the bead, so you don't mar the bead if you have to use excessive force to get it on, link on low profile tires. Good job on your first tire, a lot of apprentices don't do it as well😂. I have one of those but never used it. Yet. Great video on the mods. Def watching the bubble balancer video amd gave you a follow.
You did a fantastic job explaining the modifications for the HF tire changer and demonstrating how it works, excellent video, thnk you.
Thanks for checking out our video!
Get your self some rubber lube and keep the duck bill lubed. Also lube the tire bead before installing the tire on the wheel. The modification is well to the tire changer looks like a great improvement!
Thanks for checking out our video!
I love the F100's you have. I've had 3 different 1965 F100's back in the 1980s.
Should we do more videos with them?
Awesome video. Yes, it's got to a point that I need this manual system for my 6 cars.
I bought my changer about 20 years ago and countless tires later using the tool that came with it and tire spoon. This is a slick set up. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
For the bead break I would use bolts as you suggested. You could also weld a steel spacer inside. Great ideas and craftsmanship. Keep up the great work.
Thanks!!
You are becoming a bona fide professional Emmanuel tire replacer
Si
I really liked your modifications to the tire changer. That is something that I will need to do to my HF tire changer. I took the bead breaker off of the side and cut some square tubing (it's what i had at the time) and welded the 2 flat fins on it so that i could use the bead breaker on top. I'm old with some back problems so it is much easier to use it standing up instead of being stooped over and trying to maneuver the tire around. I did however need to slip a piece of flat bar in the top to keep it from slipping up over the center spindle. Just an idea. 👍👍
That's a great idea!
Great job on the mods! The proper alignment of the duckhead is 1/8" above the rim and 1/8" clearance at the head and tail. It's also designed to move head first. In your design, you should rotate clockwise around the rim for a more effective job. Especially when you have stiffer sidewalls. Lube is your friend!! Use more soap percentage than water. Lube both beads before installing so you can wipe excess water from inside. The excess causes balance problems. Use caution when leaning over the center pipe in case you slip so you don't injure yourself. Never exceed 45psi when seating the bead for safety reasons! 💣🦺
All solid info!! Thanks for the comment!
Curious with a setup like this how would anyone be able to control an 8th inch of play in that duckbill.
Theres an 8th of play or more in the arm that's holding the duckbill.
Just a thought here
@@motov8-garage832 Why would you need to?
@@madgingercustoms I'm not sure,was hoping the O.P up top would elaborate.
What I'm thinking is this 1/8 inch of clearance is so the duckbill doesnt bind up or rub tight on the rim.
On a manual or "homemade" modified tire machine I dont see how you could control an 1/8" of play.
I say just eye ball it, make sure it's not to tight and make it work lol👍
I got one of these and bent the bead breaker on a 14” tire lol I definitely needed this video
It's fairly easy like this. Thanks for watching!
I had a Coats manual tire machine for many years. Always hated using the bar to remove or set the tire on the wheel. Your modification is a stroke of genius. Subbed and liked.
Thanks for checking out our video!
I have one of these changers. It never worked well. Now I know how to fix it. Thanks!
Thanks!
Wished you would've showed how you atteched base to floor. Wondering how sturdy that set up is.
Go to this video and go to 2:50 mark. ua-cam.com/video/PXeRvgvTeP0/v-deo.htmlsi=_ppfyN5TOw6qy5k3
Spray bottle of dawn dish soap, lube the edges of the tire before seating it works wonders.
There is dish soap in the spray bottle.
@@madgingercustoms Yes I seen that, I was watching and posted too early. I was a tire jockey many years ago. Soap was not only good for lubrication, but helped get off the black stuff!!
Thank you for taking the plunge. Building my retirement shop, so this helps.
I have that whole set up. I'm glad I did. Absolutely love it. The balancer works great. Save so so much money on tires getting them online.
The bubble balancer I just modified. Works way better now! Next video.
You did a good job on video and tire and great job on the rims and if I had the tools I wood do the same to the tire changer when I do get the tools I will unless you start making some modified parts for the harbor freight tire changer and then sale some already made I most likely buy one or two just to have a extra one GOD BLESS YOU AND HAPPY FATHER'S DAY
Thanks for checking the video out!
Love the mods to the tire changer. I've used nothing but 'soapy wooder' to put the tires on the rims. You'll get good enough to 'throw' the tire on the rim for one side. I also loved the 'Safety Shoes" at the beginning of the clip. In my 30 years of Marriage my wife has never come to help me in the shop. Her idea of 'helping' is to hit panic button on the truck when I am laying under it changing the oil. Keep up the vids..
That's hilarious!! And we did have dish soap in the spray bottle.
The first old tire that you demostrated breaking the bead on had an interesting tread pattern. One I'd never seen before.
Those were on my 1950 Ford Custom. They could be 60+ years old I suppose.
I did break or chips my new tires but l will try again thanks you for this video
Great!!
The bubble balancer is very accurate. I used to do trooper wheels because they said that they could drive over 100 mph without vibration.
Thanks for watching!
A bubble balancer does 95% of the balance. The other 5% is to pay for the spin balancer 😂
Love the comment to Jess it ain’t oil for your taint. I almost croaked when you said that. She a great gal with a great sense of humor. Trust me buddy she had a better idea for that bar than putting that tire on. Content of your channel is entertaining Mad Ginger. Thanks for sharing your struggles😂😂 with us. 👍👍🇨🇦
🤣🤣🤣🤣
This guy makes it's funny to watch but he keeps it interesting to watch he's like a normal guy great job
Thanks man!!
I bought a tire mounter from HF and was wondering how well it would work. Thanks to you and your video it’s looking like a good investment. Nice job!
Thanks for watching it!
A suggestion to help preventing the bar/ pipe used for rotating the duck head module from slipping off during use, would be: to attach a piece of flat bar or rod that's hook shaped to the end of the rotation bar, cupping around the vertical pipe section of the duck head module. There's a coloured dot on new tyres, it is positioned with the valve stem.
These tires have no dots on either side. We checked all 4 of them. I thought it was odd.
I been changing truck tires on my semi for years I just found out about the colored dot about six month ago that how you balance the tire on a big truck tire line it up and it balances the tires every time. My car tires dont have a colored dots on them.
If there isn't a colored dot there will usually be a molded "dot". Typically some kind of indication to note the light point on the tire.
And there are dimples on rims, most times anyway. Those dimples are meant to match the dots on the tires. It’s supposed to be industry standard but they aren’t always there.
@johnburton705 yeah. Typically you put the heavy point of the tire opposite the air valve on the rim as that will typically be the heavy point on the rim
I know an old fellow who runs a junkyard that sells used tires in he balances the tires with one of those manual balancers and I'll tell you what I have not had a problem with any of my tires they are on aluminum rims and the balance is perfect. Good luck with all your and thank you for your content. God is good!!!
Thanks for watching our video!
I think it's an excellent idea what you've modified. I am watching it right now and I think you're doing a wonderful job. Keep up the good work the modifications look like they're really going to work out well
Thanks for watching!!
Great job on upgrading the tire changer it works well and thanks for sharing
Jess is awesome cya on next one 👍👍
Jess is awesome. Yup. Thanks for watching.
@@madgingercustoms You are very welcome 🙏
I'm impressed I've been in been a mechanic for 35 years and almost looks like you know what you're doing good job.
I've seen some things lol. Thanks for watching!
Do yourself a favor and get a super strong magnet to put on the tire changer to hold that stupid bead breaker up while you reposition the wheel
That's a good idea. Thanks!
Was thinking the same!
Bungie cord
@@mikethomas3069 I used to have a Bungie cord but the magnet is faster and easier
Did this-game changer.
Honestly was gonna post it myself, but ya beat me there.
Quite surprised you didn't build a bigger and more stable base for it. That was the first modification I did to mine.
I think the smaller foot print is fine for what I'm using it for. I can toss it in the corner of the barn.
You don't need a larger base when you have it bolted to concrete like he does.
Probably one of the best DIY tyre removal/fitting videos on UA-cam.
Thank you!!
I been meaning to do this on my Northern Tool tire changer the past couple years but money was tight and never was sure on what parts to get, your links are a big help......
I really like your wife's answer when you ask her what she needed to mount the tire, she said "hammer", that was hilarious made me laugh 🤣🤣good video thanks for posting......
He uses a hammer a lot that's why I said it! 😂😂
I love the parts where you are like, "Oh damn, jeez that actually works!" Great video, you do an excellent job of explaining your motives, methods and your hands on testing really shows the newbies how to put your plans into action. Nicely done, and the magicians assistant helping at the end is just icing on the backyard DIY Tire changer. Looks like I'm goin' to Harbor Freight.
I like that! Magician's assistant! 😂😂
Thanks for checking out our video!
If the Harbor Freighticians were to add this attachment to their offerings, they would have a silk purse for sure.
Elegant design overall. I think it would benefit from the handles you mentioned. I have the basic tire changer and some tires are just a bear to mount and dismount. Your mods would help a lot I think.
Hope it helps you out. Thanks for watching.
Sand them down then put the tires on then paint afterwards. Run a little bit of tape around the outside of the rim. Don't have to worry about scratching them. I bought mine to do motorcycle tires the attachment that comes with it don't work with the motorcycle rims and tires either needs modified also. You did give me some ideas I do appreciate it!
You can do it brother. I used to bubble balance tires in 78 when I worked at a service station
Thanks for watching!!
Nice work! Love this little tire changer super cool thanks for showing us the mods.
Thanks! Braaaapppp
Another note. The claw that is supposed to hold the rim to the changer. I just cut a tire sidewall into two pieces and put it between the wheel and the claw. It will prevent the claw from damaging the wheel and will hold it secure while still using the pin that came with the changer.
a little light fluid on the rim works great to blow up the tire quickly
We've done it on our trail rig!
The pop sound that you were looking for, only happens when you have modern safety rims!
The 'safety bead' was developed in the late 50s and adopted as an SAE design in the early 60s, but wasn't 'required' until the late 70s, although it was adopted by pretty much every manufacturer by the late 60s.
Yeah others have said similar. They seated well and haven't leaked so I think they will do fine. Thanks for watching!
@@madgingercustoms I was taught to always use tubes on the rims not designed for tubes tires , as they will come off if the tire pressure gets low. "Safety first"
@@JDE-li8nf the tire with still come off though at low pressure. But I know what you're saying.
You should have had her pull on the bar instead of pushing, if the bar slips she is going to go face first into the ground or the changer. Also with the soft pliable sidewalls of the new radial tires you can just about push them on to the rims, or at least next time grab hold of the tire and spin it around and on to the rim.
If you go and get a bubble balancer try splitting the weight into 2 small ones and spilt the difference, instead of a 2 oz weight in one spot use 2 -1 oz. ,one on the front and one on the backside of the rim. It worked very well in the 60's when I was young.
I have the bubble balancer and I'm currently doing the video. I modified it to work amazing.
I put t a peice of 2inch galvanise pipe where you put the bar to help break tires down that really helped. Then I got me a automatic fly wheel went around it with my wealder to cover up the teth to keep it from cutting up wheels and cutting up my hands on those teeth. I broke the pipe that keeps it from turning then I put a few of holders one for transmission fluid and to hold tube of cylecone for beads that wont seal grease the tire and wheel then put athin coat of cylcone on the bead of the tire and it will not leak.
Then I wealded the platform feet to the bottom of the stand.
And a lazy susan to spin the tire when braking it down.
The fly wheel for table to sit tires was the best thing I did it really help holds the wheel.
And the holder helps to hold valve stem wrench and setms that really help.
I use gas to pop the bead it works better that eather, eather some times it wont light plus gasoline has a pop to get the bead on the wheel.
also I wish I hadn't painted the tire break arm yellow it help to keep people from runing over it in the dark, You can tell when people have been looking through your stock and if it isn't painted yellow it tells who is looking becaus it will catch you right on ther shin.
You'll learn quick where it is.
Good show thanks
Almost forgot get you some liitle c-claps and tape the contact points to keep fron scratching that helps
keeping the tireunder the lip when putting it back on.
Oh, I like this. Thanks for commenting.
I really like your mods and it worked perfectly! The only suggestion I would make is to weld a piece of small round stock on the end of the tightening bolts (to make them T bolts) so you wouldn't have to use a wrench to tighten them. Good job big guy!
That was the plan but I'm impatient and needed to use it!! I may cut some knobs on the plasma table.
I have one of these HF tire machines. I used it to mount LT tires on my Bronco. Like you, I wanted to clean and paint the rims before putting the new tires on. I sure could have used the duckbill and the adapter to center the wheel to make things easier. I appreciate the information on the modifications. Did your new tires have balance marks on them? Thanks again for the video!
I thought they would have a dot to line up with the valve stem but they didn't. I was surprised by that. They were super cheap though.
Good stuff Dave!
I was very impressed that you could get your wife to help. I've had help from my with and it is a tricky endeavor. Good video. John
You should see the next video coming up. Jess and I out all day working on her truck. So much sunburn!
Great ideas. One thought rather than a wrench weld a T on those nuts, just a suggestion. Like what you did here.
I'll weld some Ts on those for sure. Thanks for watching!
8:00 Strongly suggest pushing the tire bead down into the inner section of the rim, to allow the section you are forcing over the rim, to have as much freedom to stretch as possible, which will also save tearing the bead as you work.
That's why all rims, have a middle section MUCH SMALLER than the main rim edges.
Long time ago, I learnt that simple trick when changing bicycle & motorcycle tires, (with a couple of tire levers (or screwdrivers) as there was no way to rip the bead over the rim, without moving the rest of the bead, into the inner rim concave area.
When I saw you doing the initial removal, it was extremely difficult as the bead was NOT in the inner (looser) area, but close to the main bead rim, hence why it seemed tight at first.
Oh that and the fact that you pulled it the WRONG WAY with the red bar.
You lifted the bead up above the duckbill with the silver bar this side, which meant the duckbill would have kept lifting the bead if you had placed the red bar THIS SIDE of the center and pulled the wheel around the other way.
Talk about making things hard on yourself Trev.
Yes it will eventually rip the bead up & over the wrong way around, with the rest of the bead HIGH up on the rim's inner surfaces.
It would have been far easier, with the red bar on this side "pulling", allowing the duckbill to do the lifting, with the entire tire (halfway) down at the middle of the rim, allowing the bead to slip up & over correctly.
Try it next time and wonder why you didn't read the instructions - eh?
Amazing how it worked at all!
That smaller diameter in the middle of older rims is called the "drop center". And it is there specifically for installing and removing tires.
Slick mod I like that. Working Tire's lube is your friend
Absolutely!
Yes I just bought one of these and tried it out and of course the bead breaker bent. And the giant rod they give the end was welded so poorly it's stuck a piece of metal in my hand. Then when I put the tire back on I could get it 3/4 of the way on but they made the stupid end of the rod wrong and it couldn't do it the whole way. So I had to use my motorcycle levers for motorcycle tires to get it on the rest of the way. I see you basically redesigned the whole stupid piece of crap. A work of genius by you but really, all that work to make a piece of crap work somewhat. You might as well have redesigned the whole thing yourself
Yeah the bead breaker is almost useless for anything stubborn but the duck head mod makes it very easily mount and dismount tires honestly. My wife had no trouble even with my horrible instruction!
I would tend to agree with you, Scotty. USE their ideas, but make it with better structural steels ; keeping an eye on ' leverage '....KISS method ( keep it simple, stupid Peter )
I agree with all the work you put in it you could have just made it from scratch scratch
I just watched your video before this one. I make/modify a lot of stuff, even made my own smoke machine but you can get a cheap tire machine AND balancer for $600. I have also used the exact same tires that he used however they are trailer, not car, tires....
Remember, at 8:08 the LAST thing you need is for the center screw-down tube to "loosen" while you are pulling the red bar around, (from the car towards the camera towards you then past the boat & back to the car) so as it spins TIGHT with this side turning towards the yard, and the other side towards that old car, turn the red bar THE SAME WAY ROUND, which allows the silver bar to hold he bead up enough, for the duck-bill to do all the bead removal (and the rim is held firmly by the center "threaded" clamp, so that you don't cuss and swear when it all comes loose.
I think you mean "clockwise"
And counter-clockwise…much easier to explain and understand
Nice fab job! Well thought out. Classy shop help too! Thanks.
The duckhead is a game changer. I catch myself telling old geezer stories lately. Back in the day when you bought a set of tires, the mounting and balancing was an extra 4 or 5 bucks a tire. These days, 20 bucks a tire is common. 30 or 40 bucks a tire is not rare. The machine pays for itself the first time you use it pretty much. Plus, you can do your tire work on your schedule.
I can't find a place under $40/tire if I bring them in
@@mrmotofy Places around me want $40 per tire to dispose of them! Mounting and balancing new tires is upwards of $100 per tire.
@@lysergicpillamyd483 WHAAAAAT? That's insane
You can use a wooden handle (hammer) or a little strip of wood to pry against to get that valve stem in without damaging the wheel. You can weld a small piece of bar stock to those bolts on your rig to make them T-handles. Then you won't need any other tools to tighten them.
That was the plan from the get go with the handles but I'm impatient!
If you don’t try you’ll never know. I like your mods &ingenuity. Go crazy and have fun at it.
Thanks!
Great video buddy! I have a manual tire changer from the 1930s or 40s, youve got me wondering if a duckbill might be able to be adapted to it!
That piece really makes the unit work well.
I have a set of 44” Super Swampers you think you could do them for me?! Lol.. awesome job and great job fabricating the tire machine! Next time I think you should have socks on with your sandals just incase you drop something on your foot!! 😂 again you guys did an awesome job and can’t wait to see more videos! The car is really starting to come together!! It’s gonna look great with the red rims!
Next time I'll have Jess throw on some platypus shoes.
I don't have the platypus shoes anymore!!!
Hahahaha!!!! Those were the best!!
I absolute love this informative video two thumbs to you and your beautiful Jess. You are a excellent instructor. Thank You
Thanks for checking it out!!
I have to agree with Jess. Your instructions left a little to be desired, but I’m sure if she had watched you do the other 3 she probably could have done that one on her own.
Overall that is a great modification to the basic tire changer and other than needing a bit of elbow grease it’s nearly as easy as using an actual air powered machine. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you! I was going into this with no idea what we were doing! 😂😂
I did better with the tire balancer video! I promise!
Too bad the manufacture of these don't realize the buying public would gladly spend the extra money for it if they would have included this design with the product. I want something that functionally works well over a cheaper price. Now I and everyone else has to spend the time and money for this modification for a good product, when we shouldn't have to.
Agreed!! HF would have a winner if they included this attachment!
Don't see you spraying soapy water or tire lube on wheel? Thought i saw a spray bottle earlier.
Nice modification!
You are the lucky guy I've seen, I never get my tires to seat that easy.
Those wheels were freshly sanded. I think that helped. Also I unbound the straps from shipping immediately when they came in so they would relax.
Soap up the tire it works a lot better
We soaped the last couple. Definitely works better! Lol
Lots of soap makes easy to dismount a tire without ruining the bead.
I enjoyed your video. I understand changing tires as I worked for a Tire shop when I was younger. I have the same tire changer already. I intend to purchase the need axtra items and build the duckbill adapter. Thank you for the info and instruction. Jess did a great job.
Thank you! 😊
Remember, your instructions weren’t good enough😂😂😂😂
Only every time!
Use Good Dish Soap for installing Valve Stems , Can pull em through with one quick tug. They also make a tool for Installing valve stems Without Needing to break the tire down at all. Also use Tire Lube or Soap on the changer head . Lube is key for a good tire install & for a Good Bead seal .
Great tip!
Basically informative and entertaining. I did not think I would sit through the whole rigmarole of the process...but ..it was fun to watch. Thanks. B.V.
Thanks for sticking with us!
Finally, you have the energy to make junk better! Proud of you for experimenting with harbor freight tools. Good ole USA initiative 😅
I'm revamping my Harbor Freight sheet metal brake currently.
I prefer to mount my own tires .. Because I clean up the bead area with a wire wheel grinder.. and I use Frey lube Rim grease on the beads..
I got a quote of $4.00 per wheel at Sam's Club for balancing. I think they would dismount old tires and mount new tires for the same price.
Many places got $7.50 to balance a mounted wheel a few years ago .
That price is double here. That's a good price!
I love the color of your steel wheels, and the tire changer. Modification is awesome.
Thank you!!
Very helpful, bought a duckbill and changer. Just been moving it around. I took a screen shot of your set up. Thank you. I miss having access to a pneumatic tire changer.
Glad this was helpful.
Good job. We bought one and modified it like you said. Works great. Even better after getting used to it.
Thank you for giving us all the material we need to Make this thing
Nice Kimmel cameo . Strong appearing welds. Boy jove, I think he's got it. Nuff said.
Thanks for watching!
I've had one of these for years and love it!
I mounted it to square steel tubing and slide it into the 2" receiver on my 4x4 vehicle.
Great to take with on trail rides or vacations! 👍
Yeah making it hitch mounted is a great idea!
I have to commend you for the way that you did. I have had one for years and have made a lot of additions to mine but I really like that duck bill addition that you did. I have unmounted and mounted many tires in my time with this tire changer. I do have many other tire tools that are old and new. I have even bent the bar that is used to remove and install the tires. I wanted to make a thing like you did but I didn't know that the parts were able to be bought, I've been fabricating different things like the duck bill but now I'll just buy one. Thanks for making the list of parts that you used to make it easier to purchase the parts that I need. Thanks and GOD BLESS YOU SIR!
Thanks for watching our video. I'm glad it was helpful.
Awesome mods. I've had one of those for 20 years and wish I had seen this years ago!!!
Thanks for checking it out!
I like you took the time to make it as a mechanical machine. Scratch free! Nice work.
I appreciate you watching!!
This is a very very good very good so
Thanks!
I found l can change 17" tires no problem no modifications, however l found the red barrel to short and l use the lower bolt hole on the bead breaker. I use a cloth and vise grippers on the rim edge and then the bead is forced up instead of the extra bar. The other thing l do is weld a 6 " pipe to the bar so l can control the bead lifter on the red bar so it can not rotate In my hands and l can keep the bead bar vertical while rotating during the prying the bead up off the rim. I use a peice of tubing over the rim clamp against the upside of the rim and l just use a cloth on the end of the bar to protect the rims edges sometimes it is better just to use the tire iron to pry on the tires instead of the rotation method because you can protect the rims edges with a cloth around the tire iron. But interesting modifications your doing definitely has merit.
I did some 18" this weekend with it. Fairly easy so that was ok.