This is all you need to make this: Mount/Dismount Duck Head Tire Changer: amzn.to/3DQm6g8 Straight Tire iron I used to pull the bead over rim: amzn.to/3DMYyc6 Tire LUBE is a MUST(dish soap in a pinch): amzn.to/2m8tSL7 Basic Manual Tire Changer Machine: amzn.to/2mLAiVu MAKE THE BEST OUT OF YOUR TIRE CHANGER: ua-cam.com/video/gpTgwbHarEg/v-deo.html
sixtyfiveford for people with a welder I'd suggest the setup in this video ua-cam.com/video/nmXVeLamRgU/v-deo.html. Which is like this video ua-cam.com/video/lvKGkh9U1Yo/v-deo.html, but without the bearings at the top and bottom of the main pipe. It may be a tad bit more expensive than just attaching the duck bill to the pipe, but it'll be easier on your body and the rim/tire. It would be awesome if you made one, and did a comparison video of all of them to see which one you liked better.
Right on ; just what the dr ordered . Just did 4 tires on wife’s car . The second bead i turn wheel upside down on changer and push tire over & off . Also on bubble balancer I only put one bead on and put on balancer and move tire around till closes to balance . Put back on changer and second bead on. Two wheels came out perfect . No weights . Many thanks for your efforts and info . ✊🏻👌👍🙏🙏🙏
Heres a thought. Make a sleeve that goes over the center. Weld a piece of tube perpendiucular to that, with a couple of setscrews. The "foot" is then held straight and is adjustable to the width of the tire. Then weld your bar to that with a few steel wedges to reinforce. The bar for leverage can now be at any angle but the foot will stay properly positioned.
This is brilliant, thanks for developing the bar and demonstrating how to use it. I just built one and used it to swap the tires on my wife's car, after a little fiddling with it to get the technique down it was effortless.
Got the manual changer about 8 months ago. At first I wasn't worried about the rims on the projects, now that I see it's much Cheeper to do the tires myself, I found your video on how to prevent damage. Just got my "duckbill" and rematched your vid. Thanks sir for the useful info! This is what UA-cam is all about! Love the square tubing idea, got plenty of scrap at work I can utilize! Also like how you show the process both failures and successes. Just like real life
Carriage bolts have the smooth heads that should work. Tough working in a 1 stall (?) with 3 stalls worth of tools and junk (????) ,, Don't ask me how I know. Good find. It really doesn't take a lot to make some harbor freight tools very workable. I have had my tire changer for years and it does the job. Never got around to making your other bar but did get a bead breaker. You are the man to watch. I'm a subscriber and find your videos a treasure trove of good ideas and how To's . Thanks and keep them coming please
I want to say thanks. I built one using your specs 10degree up and 14 degrees canted left/counter clockwise. I used 1.5 inch square tubing .120 wall thickness for the bottom 3/4 and used 1 inch electrical conduit for the handle. It pretty much eliminates the tendency of the bar to roll. Getting those angles right is key and because of your video there was no guess work. Thanks.
Got a smile on my face the moment when the duckbill started jumping off the wheel when installing the tire. You immediately stopped and stared at it. It was this moment when I could almost see neurons in your brain going into hyperdrive. There was a glow. You saw a problem and by gawd you were going to solve it. No drama, no frustration, no give-up. I really like the way you work. Keep it up! lol. Regarding the final mod, how about welding another short piece of pipe to the side of the bar that would slip over the main axle you pry against?
Only reason I can't put a pipe over the center axle is this dimension changes with different rim sizes and also slightly when you move the bar up and down.
@@sixtyfiveford you could have a pipe that fits over the center axle and weld another short pipe (maybe 6" or so) to that at an angle where your tire-changer pole slides thru and then tap threads into a hole in that angled pipe/sleeve where a bolt could pinch your tire-changer in place. Allowing for a length adjustment to be made but still prevent the twisting.
@@sixtyfiveford I was going to say the center of the axle will change from wheel tinwheel. But if you took 2 small short pipe pieces that would fit over the axle and handle weld those together peroenticular to each other that would work
With the help of your video I bolted together a bar using some Unistrut I had laying around. Easily completed changing 8 tires with 4 more to go. Thanks brother.
That was great video to show the steps and possibilities. It helps me cause I am about to build my own tire changer. Really apareciate sharing your knowledge and experiences.
Love the simplicity of the design. Was just working through something similar when I came across your video. The issue with the right side pushing away from the rim is due to the force of the bar in how it is positioned with the "T" shaped piece you cut out to attach to the duck bill. If you had cut out an "L" shaped piece so the duck bill stays in the same plane as the center post of the tire changer this wouldn't happen. I'm going to try using a rectangular piece of steel I have lying around so there is no twisting as I turn. Will maybe post a video of my own but kudos to you as watching your video is putting me hopefully in the right direction
Any updates? Mine is rolling pretty bad on low profile tires. I’m looking for way to prevent it from fillings or id have to build the other version with square pipes that bolts on and spins
That is such a good idea. And a lot easier and cheaper than building the whole goose neck arm with the duck bill on the end like I see in other videos. good work
You're a freaking super hero. I need this magic wand! I just changed my truck tires caveman style with 2 pry bars. There was hours of the "weeping and gnashing of teeth".
Brett Houston, you Sir, just made my day. I had a similar experience changing a motorcycle tire. The shop near me gets thirty bucks to change a tire, I said "Naw, I'm good." An hour and a half later soaked in sweat thru to my boxers from the August heat, with hands rubbed completely raw.... I finally got it. I could barely type this out thru all the laughter and tears. So if you don't mind, I'm gonna take that little quote of yours and stick it in my back pocket. I work in the garage enough, it won't be long before I'll need it.
I built the bearing one, well tried to. Welds keep busting. New to welding but also I don't think my welder is getting good fusion on 1/4". I think the thinner metal he used is better, thicker metal just doesn't fit very well on 16" truck tires. My welds are probably at least half an inch shorter using the angle iron I had available but I also tried to weld the back side and I cut a little notch on the bar hoping it would get a better hold to it. Going to have to start over with a thinner and longer angle iron piece. I have the most issue with installing the second side so the bearing bar is the main thing I need although I have the little no mar moto tip too. I have to walk off for awhile and do something else every time the welds bust.
Manual tire changers are the best. I made my duck bill bar out of two 1x3 angle, 3" walls riding against center post, straddling it and 1"leg drilled to match duckbill . Then welded round pipe for handle. Kinda like harbour freight small tire changer. Also mounted harbour freight 1" x18"bar magnet on bead breaking pipe, raise pipe to contact underside of hub and slide to contact upright post, then cut and weld at an angle. Keeps bead breaking pipe from falling. Ps remove black tape from magnet to expose segments. Thanks again for making these videos
i did it, used all of your advice,...i use 1.5 inch square with an ofset and a vertucal riund bar past center towards the lever end...it works FANTASTIC...THANKS very much...Creator bless ...doug (canada)
Awesome. I've used this thing on so many tires now and love it. The only change I made was egging out the holes that hold the head so I can pivot it back and forth a little. As there is a variance between 13-in rims to 20 inch rims.
When I had a manual tire changer and used it lots I found a different bar that worked very well for taking the tire off quite effortlessly. It was an inch or less in diameter (think it was less than an inch) and made it into an oval shape at the end. It was about half the height of the bar and of course wider and smooth and rounded off nice. It was about 3 or 4 inches from the end and only had the full taper the last inch or so. It was so easy to pry up the tire and then spin it off and did top and bottom equally well. Once you started to turn the oval seemed to stay in the same place and found its own place to work the best. Hope I made it clear enough to understand. I have enjoyed the videos that I've watched that you have made and especially when I have done the same discoveries that you have shown and used. Dale in Canada
That's slick as mud and the best help possible! Don't get better than that! Been looking for the longest time for this very thing. Try not to over think it, it works.. Five Stars!Thank you very much sir.
Great video, I really appreciated the attention to detail and running analyses. Building off your design: I made my lever bar with two thick walled 1 inch square tubes welded together. They are 4 foot pieces offset by 7 inches to create a handle on one end (top side) and a lower profile on the horn mount side. I did not impart an angle change to the head on my build. Additionally I welded a vertical 1 foot handle (same 1 inch stock) on the horn side to correct any twisting of the horn if needed. The results were: 1) A wide flat surface against the center post to resist horn twist. 2) A handle (main lever end) which maintains downward pressure on the trailing edge of the horn to counter the tire forcing the rear of the bill up when installing. In other words the bottom of the flat lever is pressed against the post and you generate a higher pressure on the top side resisting undesired twist. 3) A vertical handle (horn side) that made positioning the tool easier. Next I made the horn mount plate so the degree of arch could be changed with the size of the wheel. Where the lever is not in line with the center post, the horn angle changes slightly as the distant from the post changes which may result in the horn coming off the wheel. The pivot bolt passes though the mount plate up from the circular pocket on the bottom of the horn and though the bottom square tube. The locking bolt pass thought an arched slot cut into the plate and up though the both tubes. The results were: 1) Easy angle correction with no pop off. Overall my build worked well removing and installing and did not pop off the wheel. I tested it on an 18 inch aluminum wheel mounting a 245/60. I used Amor All as the mount lube (very slick) and was able to apply consistent force with no marring of the wheel. The additional handle was not needed in my test to correct horn twist but greatly aided in the handling of the tool. My build is heavy though and would benefit from a second person helping. That said there was no bending of the lever under pressure and the force needed to rotate the lever was normal. The straight lever design did not interfere with removal or install in my case. The horn also fit well under the top wall when removing the second bead. Thanks again for the inspiration. Very happy with the results.
Excellent video! Thank you so much for all the info here. I just snagged an old Coats Model 3 Tireman for $40 and will be mounting it in the shop once we get it cleaned up a bit. Once thing it didn't come with was the mounting bar so this gets me complete and on the righ ttrack. Thank you for all the help and good info here!!
So i really enjoyed going through the steps with you . I had bought the exact duck head to use with my old nematic 2020 coats machine .The 2020 will scratch gouge any mag or painted aluminum wheel so need the plastic duck head . I planned on using leaf spring and cutting a slot in the middle to use the machine air drive post , or doing a L shape so it would work like the 15k new machine .Also if i can give a suggestion i stopped using the tire soap and water . I use silicone spray the tires almost fall on {not silicon based penetrating oil } . Try it 1 time ,plus no water inside to promote rust .stems i use a touch of dielectric grease .I also find the silicone absorbs into the rubber keeping it from cracking over time . Great video because you showed the problems and then the fixes . that saves a viewer time in not having to go through the failed steps . Now onto flush mount bolts and angle considerations !. Thanks for sharing ! .. Gene.
I really liked how you show us what issues came up and how you worked through them, rather than just editing all that out. I'm a bit OCD, so I also appreciate the no damage aspect. Most of the other DIY tire change videos, getting tool marks all over the rim are obviously of no concern.
Love these real world videos. Find a problem, make adjustments, solve the issue. After some experience, this manual tool probably works faster than a >$2000 machine with exercise to boot.👍
For anyone that happens to obtain one of the really old tire changing stands, if the bead breaking tool works off of the center post, make absolutely sure there is a way to keep the breaker on that post if it slips under load. I came within a quarter inch of getting clocked between the eyes by one of those, when it slipped under pressure. That was over 20 years ago, and it still makes me shutter when I think of it. A simple cross pin at the top of that post should do the job.
I just bought one of those... . I noticed that right away I happen to find a harbor freight bead breaker... That I used instead until I get that fixed 🤪
I second this. This is so important. I had a tire iron hit me in the mouth from slipping under pressure when I didn’t expect it to. cost an ER trip, stitches in my mouth, a scar on my cheek and almost losing my teeth. I’m a technician, change tires pretty much everyday and I’m still scared every damn time. tires are fun, and a manual mount/dismount process will always be impressive in my eyes, however it can be very dangerous. Thanks for sharing.
How is that even possible I use a long bar and sit and bounce my ass on it and my hand is holding the wall so I won’t bust my ass but I bend the pipe and break beads from tires over 8 years old that’s melted on the rims
@@Derpherppington Probably a lot of things, wear in the collar that slipped over the center post was my main suspect. Maybe I was trying to break down a tire that was larger than the stand was designed to handle. Again, it happened over 25 years ago.. All I remember was that it happened, and it was a very near thing. Now that you mention the long bar ... a long pipe cheater would have had me farther away from that center. "Cheating" sounds like a good thing, in this case.
It's great that he shows the trial and error. Hindsight is always makes things easier. Great build and what that tells me is starting with a piece of square tube would be the way to go. Thanks for sharing you just earned my sub.
Hey!! That was some ideas I came up with.. but design was still in my works, now your UA-cam popped up, yeah!! Now seeing pro and cons!! Gives me time how to modify mine. I got tons of steel to modify one….. thanks for making the video.
Just bought a manual tire changer from Harbor freight. Removes tires fantastic. I found that the install end sucks and I will modify it so it grips the rim better. I need to use pry bars........... I meant tire spoons that look like pry bars🤣to put the tire back on. Maybe I will just buy one of those duck bills and build one like yours. The other thing I found out about this machine it only took 3 tires to bend the bead breaker so I will need to reinforce that. I should have some angle iron that will work for that. All in all I am pretty happy with my purchase. I live 50 miles away from anyplace that does tire work. Tried to use 2 foot long sections of rebar to anchor it to the ground. I have very hard ground so I figure it would work. Nope, pulls up pretty easy. I have some old railroad ties that I can use some long lag bolts to fasten it to and then just bury the tie. Should be solid. Just not ready to drill holes in my new cement slab.
The vise grips are an essential part of changing lawn mower tires. Without the vice grips you can find a small lawn mower tire forever. I like your tool I just might copy it. Thanks for sharing.
You are a legend. I grew up breaking tires down with bumper Jack to break the bead and 2 spoons for the tires. My pops was old school. This is awesome. Do you have a video that shows how to make your last tool you showed with ball bearing to install? Getting off is easy enough. I hate messing up tire on cold days with 2 spoons
I purchased two of those duck bill heads because they are plastic. and I wanted to have a spare in case one of them broke. and because the seller had an offer where if I got two of them I could get a significant reduction in the cost. so it was basically like I got the second one for free and while I was at it the seller had a video of how it works on the tire machine that they are made for. and something that I noticed is on the arm on the machine. the duck bill head is attached so it allows it to swivel some as it's pushed against the wheel. and I think the main reason for this is for different size wheels. so I built mine in such a way that I took a piece of tube that slides down over the main post that sticks up from the tire machine. then I took two pieces of square stock one that will just slide inside the other. and welded the larger diameter piece to the tube that go on the tire machine. and made the arm out of the smaller diameter piece. and put set bolts on it so that the arm can be adjusted in and out for the diameter of wheel, and up and down for the width of wheel. then welded a piece of round stock on the tube that goes on the tire machine to put the bar in, to turn the assembly around to remove and replace the tire. and the first thing I did to the tire machine was to take that spoon thing off and take the grinder to it so it wasn't so blunt. that was a huge improvement for breaking the beads on the tires. and the next thing I have to do to it is change that goofy pin set up. that they got on it for holding the wheel still. then it will be a pretty good tire machine to use. after spending a hundred and eighty some $ at Les Schwab for four dismounts and mounts. I decided I need to change my own tires.
Your channel is priceless. Your style is unparalleled. I hope you get 300M subs. How you continue to come up with unique clever solutions that arent already pasted all over the internet to do mundane yet useful tasks .. I will never understand. And, on top of that, you make it fun to watch. Great talent. Thanks for sharing, and please be encouraged to continue. Thanks. p.s. go team Ginger
I got the ducks head you listed. Heading into work now to mill out a solid aluminum block with a couple tapped holes for set screws. Thank you for the idea!
I made the bar last year with round tube and after a few tire changes today I'm planning to add the flat surface so the bar is less likely to rotate. I'll check the angle of the duckbill too but I adjusted that once already after I initially welded it up so I think it's a decent angle.
Dude you are like a mad inventor in a good way` all your stuff you make is great , Some Ideas you come up with on other vid`s its just what I`me like, It save`s a fortune and most of the time it works better than the original.. I bought a small pneumatic Tyre changer like the Sealey TC962 some years ago off a small closing down garage for 150.00 years ago ,My Tyre changer is like yours stuck` with all sorts getting in the way, The first Tyre I changed taken just over an hour I did not lookup the correct way to remove it I was sweating buckets my back in bits and I bent my bar through the force i was giving it, After several foul words and wanting to smash my Tyre changer, I taken a break looked up UA-cam and realized I had been doing it all wrong sequence, Went back and within several minutes removed , balanced ,new valve job done , Did I learn a hard lesson that day" I surely did. I heard that if you balance a Tyre put in on a vehicle drive 50 miles or so taken that wheel back and it will be slightly out again but not as much. I also heard that when you brake after having a new Tyre replace it will move on the rim slightly at first, Not sure if these facts are true but if it did this could explain the inaccuracy if balanced again,
Tire imbalance is constantly occurring/ changing. Some of it is because the tire is slightly out of round and as it heats up it settles. The further out the weight, the more dramatic of a difference it makes on balance. So if you had a little bit of a flat spot as soon as it rounds out the balance has completely changed. A tiny pebble in the tread grove. A glob of mud on the inside of the rim. Sometimes just the harmonic vibrations of the tread grooves can create imbalance. They try to mitigate this by having a non-uniform tread pattern if you look closely.
Just got the Duck Head mounting/dismounting tool from Amazon today. A little disappointed that it was of a plastic material but optimistic after watching your videos!!
Yeah, virtually all these professional machines use plastic duck heads. There are s few that are aluminum but then have plastic snap on covers (those are expensive).
Welding the bar on the opposite side of the flat will reduce the twist and improve the function greatly. Probably better than adding flat bars, etc.. Nice vid.
I have made a bunch of mods to my HF tire changer. Mostly just making it more beefy with welds and such. But I did buy a duck bill, which is bolted to the end of the original tire bar, through one hole. It gets switched back and forth between holes depending on which direction I am using it. One hole for mount, one hole for dismount. The fact that it can swivel while moving it around the tire bead, makes it work pretty well. The only drawback is the need to swap the bolt hole in between mounts/dismounts. I have always used this duck bill in different directions for mount/dismounts, but maybe I have been doing it wrong? I might try a copy of your setup, with a piece of square stock, and with a swiveling mount to the duck bill. I had also though about adding a leverage bar between me and the center post of the changer, just to keep the whole thing from twisting and angling the duck bill off the bead during a mount. Thanks for the ideas. Once my deer is done hanging in the shop (aging) I can heat it up out there and get some work done.
Yeah my Harbor Freight tire changer got quite a few added welds on it when it was new. Luckily it hasn't broken or fatigued in the last number of years.
Great video!! I haven't used it but it looks like the duckbill might need to rotate the other direction for installation. Mostly cause it works great unmount, but struggles on.mounting
made my day Dude....i put a small dent in an old American Racing daisy mag before i saw this video.......when my changer head arrives tomorrow(amazon thanks you) i will finish swapping those four tires and wheels!!
This thing has been amazing. The only issue I have run into the varying size of rims. I did some 12" and the angle was barely good enough to work and it did fine but not as good as the 14-17" rims I set it up for. I also did a 20" super low profile the other day and it worked fine but the angle could have been better. So I was thinking of putting and few more holes in the head for the 2 bolts to position to. Or I guess they could be slots so the head to move to accommodate the extreme rim sizes better.
@@sixtyfiveford i got mine from Amazon and it seems to be for larger dia wheels I put BFG TA's on American racing coke bottles(Daisy) and it flat wore me out....proper tire lube(bead-eze) and it got me over the top. I am a subscriber and also like that paint shaker!
You are one of the most clever guys I watch on UA-cam ! Funny I was thinking the same mod only as you found wider would be better to keep it from rolling. Keep the vids coming !
Easy & cheap got my attention LOL . It has been over a year since I used my tire changer but that duck bill makes it look a lot easier. I have been laid up for over 3 weeks & way behind projects. Not sure when I will be going again & uploading new videos. I have to check any not finished videos & maybe get something uploaded. Stay well Moe, Joe Z
cool video, I just ruined the bead on a small tire, I wish I had that tool. I'd like to see a video on how you made the bottom part that holds the tire, that's just as important as the tool you're demonstrating.
I have worried for days how to build something like this. I don’t know why they can’t sell an inexpensive product that works well, like your design. I wish I can make one for you, using your parts, but using a square tubing instead of a round tubing. Job well done - thank you, sir!
I built your first one and had my brother 3D print a plastic L instead of melted milk jug. Works good for my needs. I’ll stick with it instead of the duckbill type. I like the motorcycle tire end too. That’s the best!
I think that the duck bill takes them off in one direction and on in the other. Two bars(one on each side) might work easier. You can always join them up after the vertical pipe.
Hello sixtyfiveford. Great tool and video. I have a thought for you about tge bolt heads hitting the rim. You could try a piece of shrink tubing, the same as used on wiring. You cound get a piece big enough to go over the bolt head,cut it a bit longer then the thickness of the bolt. Heat it with a heat gun, shrink the extra piece to cover the top of the bolt head. Just a thought. Have a great day.
You might also solve the twisting problem by having 2 pieces of square tubing down the bar near the duckbill that would straddle the center post. That way it would be straight with the center pull point and the flat on each side to keep it from twisting.
@Derpherppington he accomplished about half of what I am talking about when he put the flat bar on the side to make a flat bearing surface. The addition that I was talking about would be square tubing added to go around the other side of the center post. If it was snug enough to rattle but not bind, it would stop it from twisting. The generation of tire machines before what we have now had a bar with a slot down the middle that would ride on a pin and keep it straight. I will see if I can make a short video of a sketch and link. Comment section is not allowing me to post a photo in the comment.
@@josephacker3328 now I see what’s your talking about I was also thinking of welding something like to keep it from twisting but the bar would get big and bulky. I ended up cut it all up and going with the other U bracket route with adjustable nuts
Ha, I still have the parts laying around for your last one, but I never got to it! Have been trying to get back to it recently, but glad I procrastinated. Just ordered that duck bill attachment to make it easier. Thanks!
Great idea! I'm 81, and didn't figure on changing a lot more tires, but at what it is going to cost for the duck bill, I am going to make one. It is too bad, that having the bar higher on the duck bill, causes enough torque to cause it to slip off the rim. I might attempt to build it so that the bar is lower, even though It will require a bigger angle. What are a few more welds, when I own a grinder. 🙂 BTW: I really like the look of your other bar, and am probably going to build that one as well.
To combat the twisting force while mounting the tire you could use square tubing instead of pipe for the handle. This would keep the flat edge against the center bar during installation and prevent the twisting that lifts the duckbill off the rim.
I made one almost the same as yours but with a 1/2" x 1" solid bar vs a pipe. It works ok for removing tires but does not work for installing them at least for lower profile tires which are extremely tight on the bead. I had to use my ken-tool tire bars and my Ken-tool aluminum bead holders for installation. There is just no room for the duck head.
This is all you need to make this:
Mount/Dismount Duck Head Tire Changer: amzn.to/3DQm6g8
Straight Tire iron I used to pull the bead over rim: amzn.to/3DMYyc6
Tire LUBE is a MUST(dish soap in a pinch): amzn.to/2m8tSL7
Basic Manual Tire Changer Machine: amzn.to/2mLAiVu
MAKE THE BEST OUT OF YOUR TIRE CHANGER: ua-cam.com/video/gpTgwbHarEg/v-deo.html
sixtyfiveford for people with a welder I'd suggest the setup in this video ua-cam.com/video/nmXVeLamRgU/v-deo.html. Which is like this video ua-cam.com/video/lvKGkh9U1Yo/v-deo.html, but without the bearings at the top and bottom of the main pipe. It may be a tad bit more expensive than just attaching the duck bill to the pipe, but it'll be easier on your body and the rim/tire. It would be awesome if you made one, and did a comparison video of all of them to see which one you liked better.
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Ordered two duckheads and a cone tonight.
Where do you get the parts
Right on ; just what the dr ordered . Just did 4 tires on wife’s car . The second bead i turn wheel upside down on changer and push tire over & off . Also on bubble balancer I only put one bead on and put on balancer and move tire around till closes to balance . Put back on changer and second bead on. Two wheels came out perfect . No weights . Many thanks for your efforts and info .
✊🏻👌👍🙏🙏🙏
Smart move, regarding moving the tire on the rim to reduce balancing weight.
Heres a thought. Make a sleeve that goes over the center. Weld a piece of tube perpendiucular to that, with a couple of setscrews. The "foot" is then held straight and is adjustable to the width of the tire. Then weld your bar to that with a few steel wedges to reinforce. The bar for leverage can now be at any angle but the foot will stay properly positioned.
This video saved the day for me. I made a bolt together version of the bar and it worked like a charm. Many Thanks !
This is brilliant, thanks for developing the bar and demonstrating how to use it. I just built one and used it to swap the tires on my wife's car, after a little fiddling with it to get the technique down it was effortless.
Got the manual changer about 8 months ago. At first I wasn't worried about the rims on the projects, now that I see it's much Cheeper to do the tires myself, I found your video on how to prevent damage. Just got my "duckbill" and rematched your vid. Thanks sir for the useful info! This is what UA-cam is all about! Love the square tubing idea, got plenty of scrap at work I can utilize! Also like how you show the process both failures and successes. Just like real life
Awesome. I'm glad you liked the videos.
Great alternative method and design to the more complex swing arm design that is commonly seen in other manual tire tool videos. Very nice!
Carriage bolts have the smooth heads that should work. Tough working in a 1 stall (?) with 3 stalls worth of tools and junk (????) ,, Don't ask me how I know. Good find. It really doesn't take a lot to make some harbor freight tools very workable. I have had my tire changer for years and it does the job. Never got around to making your other bar but did get a bead breaker. You are the man to watch. I'm a subscriber and find your videos a treasure trove of good ideas and how To's . Thanks and keep them coming please
Hey thanks. Carriage bolts would work awesome.
Elevator bolts have a very flat thin head. Id be inclined to use those.
Moe will figure it out, he always does!! Well done Bud!!☺
Thanks!
Yep, I'll be building this. I like to see the way you work through problems, and appreciate you showing the changes you had to make.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
I want to say thanks. I built one using your specs 10degree up and 14 degrees canted left/counter clockwise. I used 1.5 inch square tubing .120 wall thickness for the bottom 3/4 and used 1 inch electrical conduit for the handle. It pretty much eliminates the tendency of the bar to roll. Getting those angles right is key and because of your video there was no guess work. Thanks.
Got a smile on my face the moment when the duckbill started jumping off the wheel when installing the tire. You immediately stopped and stared at it. It was this moment when I could almost see neurons in your brain going into hyperdrive. There was a glow. You saw a problem and by gawd you were going to solve it. No drama, no frustration, no give-up. I really like the way you work. Keep it up! lol. Regarding the final mod, how about welding another short piece of pipe to the side of the bar that would slip over the main axle you pry against?
Only reason I can't put a pipe over the center axle is this dimension changes with different rim sizes and also slightly when you move the bar up and down.
@@sixtyfiveford Of course. I should have seen this as a problem. But maybe some variation in Model 2.0? lol
@@sixtyfiveford you could have a pipe that fits over the center axle and weld another short pipe (maybe 6" or so) to that at an angle where your tire-changer pole slides thru and then tap threads into a hole in that angled pipe/sleeve where a bolt could pinch your tire-changer in place. Allowing for a length adjustment to be made but still prevent the twisting.
@@sixtyfiveford I was going to say the center of the axle will change from wheel tinwheel. But if you took 2 small short pipe pieces that would fit over the axle and handle weld those together peroenticular to each other that would work
@4:51, did you make that paint can spinner or did you buy it???
With the help of your video I bolted together a bar using some Unistrut I had laying around. Easily completed changing 8 tires with 4 more to go. Thanks brother.
That was great video to show the steps and possibilities. It helps me cause I am about to build my own tire changer. Really apareciate sharing your knowledge and experiences.
Love the simplicity of the design. Was just working through something similar when I came across your video. The issue with the right side pushing away from the rim is due to the force of the bar in how it is positioned with the "T" shaped piece you cut out to attach to the duck bill. If you had cut out an "L" shaped piece so the duck bill stays in the same plane as the center post of the tire changer this wouldn't happen. I'm going to try using a rectangular piece of steel I have lying around so there is no twisting as I turn. Will maybe post a video of my own but kudos to you as watching your video is putting me hopefully in the right direction
Any updates? Mine is rolling pretty bad on low profile tires. I’m looking for way to prevent it from fillings or id have to build the other version with square pipes that bolts on and spins
That is such a good idea. And a lot easier and cheaper than building the whole goose neck arm with the duck bill on the end like I see in other videos. good work
You're a freaking super hero. I need this magic wand!
I just changed my truck tires caveman style with 2 pry bars. There was hours of the "weeping and gnashing of teeth".
Brett Houston, you Sir, just made my day. I had a similar experience changing a motorcycle tire. The shop near me gets thirty bucks to change a tire, I said "Naw, I'm good." An hour and a half later soaked in sweat thru to my boxers from the August heat, with hands rubbed completely raw.... I finally got it. I could barely type this out thru all the laughter and tears. So if you don't mind, I'm gonna take that little quote of yours and stick it in my back pocket. I work in the garage enough, it won't be long before I'll need it.
@@streetsweeper8592 Ha, thanks. Your comment made my day.
I built the bearing one, well tried to. Welds keep busting. New to welding but also I don't think my welder is getting good fusion on 1/4". I think the thinner metal he used is better, thicker metal just doesn't fit very well on 16" truck tires. My welds are probably at least half an inch shorter using the angle iron I had available but I also tried to weld the back side and I cut a little notch on the bar hoping it would get a better hold to it. Going to have to start over with a thinner and longer angle iron piece. I have the most issue with installing the second side so the bearing bar is the main thing I need although I have the little no mar moto tip too. I have to walk off for awhile and do something else every time the welds bust.
Manual tire changers are the best. I made my duck bill bar out of two 1x3 angle, 3" walls riding against center post, straddling it and 1"leg drilled to match duckbill . Then welded round pipe for handle. Kinda like harbour freight small tire changer. Also mounted harbour freight 1" x18"bar magnet on bead breaking pipe, raise pipe to contact underside of hub and slide to contact upright post, then cut and weld at an angle. Keeps bead breaking pipe from falling. Ps remove black tape from magnet to expose segments. Thanks again for making these videos
I have seen others, but this is very simple and I like it! Thank you
i did it, used all of your advice,...i use 1.5 inch square with an ofset and a vertucal riund bar past center towards the lever end...it works FANTASTIC...THANKS very much...Creator bless ...doug (canada)
Awesome. I've used this thing on so many tires now and love it. The only change I made was egging out the holes that hold the head so I can pivot it back and forth a little. As there is a variance between 13-in rims to 20 inch rims.
yes, i was just thinking today of having the head pivot and pin in different locations, but the thing works so wall as it is, haha...@@sixtyfiveford
When I had a manual tire changer and used it lots I found a different bar that worked very well for taking the tire off quite effortlessly. It was an inch or less in diameter (think it was less than an inch) and made it into an oval shape at the end. It was about half the height of the bar and of course wider and smooth and rounded off nice. It was about 3 or 4 inches from the end and only had the full taper the last inch or so. It was so easy to pry up the tire and then spin it off and did top and bottom equally well. Once you started to turn the oval seemed to stay in the same place and found its own place to work the best. Hope I made it clear enough to understand. I have enjoyed the videos that I've watched that you have made and especially when I have done the same discoveries that you have shown and used.
Dale in Canada
That's slick as mud and the best help possible! Don't get better than that! Been looking for the longest time for this very thing. Try not to over think it, it works.. Five Stars!Thank you very much sir.
Great video, I really appreciated the attention to detail and running analyses.
Building off your design:
I made my lever bar with two thick walled 1 inch square tubes welded together. They are 4 foot pieces offset by 7 inches to create a handle on one end (top side) and a lower profile on the horn mount side. I did not impart an angle change to the head on my build. Additionally I welded a vertical 1 foot handle (same 1 inch stock) on the horn side to correct any twisting of the horn if needed. The results were:
1) A wide flat surface against the center post to resist horn twist.
2) A handle (main lever end) which maintains downward pressure on the trailing edge of the horn to counter the tire forcing the rear of the bill up when installing. In other words the bottom of the flat lever is pressed against the post and you generate a higher pressure on the top side resisting undesired twist.
3) A vertical handle (horn side) that made positioning the tool easier.
Next I made the horn mount plate so the degree of arch could be changed with the size of the wheel. Where the lever is not in line with the center post, the horn angle changes slightly as the distant from the post changes which may result in the horn coming off the wheel. The pivot bolt passes though the mount plate up from the circular pocket on the bottom of the horn and though the bottom square tube. The locking bolt pass thought an arched slot cut into the plate and up though the both tubes. The results were:
1) Easy angle correction with no pop off.
Overall my build worked well removing and installing and did not pop off the wheel. I tested it on an 18 inch aluminum wheel mounting a 245/60. I used Amor All as the mount lube (very slick) and was able to apply consistent force with no marring of the wheel. The additional handle was not needed in my test to correct horn twist but greatly aided in the handling of the tool.
My build is heavy though and would benefit from a second person helping. That said there was no bending of the lever under pressure and the force needed to rotate the lever was normal. The straight lever design did not interfere with removal or install in my case. The horn also fit well under the top wall when removing the second bead.
Thanks again for the inspiration. Very happy with the results.
Excellent video! Thank you so much for all the info here. I just snagged an old Coats Model 3 Tireman for $40 and will be mounting it in the shop once we get it cleaned up a bit. Once thing it didn't come with was the mounting bar so this gets me complete and on the righ ttrack. Thank you for all the help and good info here!!
So i really enjoyed going through the steps with you . I had bought the exact duck head to use with my old nematic 2020 coats machine .The 2020 will scratch gouge any mag or painted aluminum wheel so need the plastic duck head . I planned on using leaf spring and cutting a slot in the middle to use the machine air drive post , or doing a L shape so it would work like the 15k new machine .Also if i can give a suggestion i stopped using the tire soap and water . I use silicone spray the tires almost fall on {not silicon based penetrating oil } . Try it 1 time ,plus no water inside to promote rust .stems i use a touch of dielectric grease .I also find the silicone absorbs into the rubber keeping it from cracking over time . Great video because you showed the problems and then the fixes . that saves a viewer time in not having to go through the failed steps . Now onto flush mount bolts and angle considerations !. Thanks for sharing ! .. Gene.
Good job! Keep them coming. Take care & God Bless
I really liked how you show us what issues came up and how you worked through them, rather than just editing all that out. I'm a bit OCD, so I also appreciate the no damage aspect. Most of the other DIY tire change videos, getting tool marks all over the rim are obviously of no concern.
Thanks. This thing works amazing and I'm glad I built it.
Thanks bro!
Way better than making the Other attachment with tons of steel!!!
Simple and efficient.
Taylorsville neighbor I appreciate it.
Ginger is so cooperative. Great little dog.
Very nice Moe. It is amazing how many people don't know how to pull/install a tire on a wheel. Love to Ginger !!
Hey Thanks. I hope you've been well.
Love these real world videos. Find a problem, make adjustments, solve the issue. After some experience, this manual tool probably works faster than a >$2000 machine with exercise to boot.👍
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Looks good, so simple everyone should have it in their shop, cheers!
Hey thanks
For anyone that happens to obtain one of the really old tire changing stands, if the bead breaking tool works off of the center post, make absolutely sure there is a way to keep the breaker on that post if it slips under load. I came within a quarter inch of getting clocked between the eyes by one of those, when it slipped under pressure. That was over 20 years ago, and it still makes me shutter when I think of it.
A simple cross pin at the top of that post should do the job.
I just bought one of those... . I noticed that right away I happen to find a harbor freight bead breaker... That I used instead until I get that fixed 🤪
I second this. This is so important. I had a tire iron hit me in the mouth from slipping under pressure when I didn’t expect it to. cost an ER trip, stitches in my mouth, a scar on my cheek and almost losing my teeth. I’m a technician, change tires pretty much everyday and I’m still scared every damn time. tires are fun, and a manual mount/dismount process will always be impressive in my eyes, however it can be very dangerous. Thanks for sharing.
How is that even possible I use a long bar and sit and bounce my ass on it and my hand is holding the wall so I won’t bust my ass but I bend the pipe and break beads from tires over 8 years old that’s melted on the rims
@@Derpherppington Probably a lot of things, wear in the collar that slipped over the center post was my main suspect. Maybe I was trying to break down a tire that was larger than the stand was designed to handle. Again, it happened over 25 years ago.. All I remember was that it happened, and it was a very near thing. Now that you mention the long bar ... a long pipe cheater would have had me farther away from that center. "Cheating" sounds like a good thing, in this case.
Lol built one exactly like it yesterday. I've had a duckbill laying and finally decided to build a bar and mount my machine to the floor.
I'm confused at 4:28 you said to weld at an angle. Why is that? what happens if you weld straight?
The duckbill needs to sit flush on the rim. It needs to be at an angle to do this. Just look at how I welded it/the angle.
I own a regular tire machine, but wow That is a brilliant idea great video thank you
I've almost bought a tire machine a few times but I have nowhere indoors to store it.
It's great that he shows the trial and error. Hindsight is always makes things easier. Great build and what that tells me is starting with a piece of square tube would be the way to go. Thanks for sharing you just earned my sub.
Top vids man. I like your no nonsense style and ability to talk consisely. Excellent camera work too. No stupid accompanying music is great also.
Hey!! That was some ideas I came up with.. but design was still in my works, now your UA-cam popped up, yeah!! Now seeing pro and cons!! Gives me time how to modify mine. I got tons of steel to modify one….. thanks for making the video.
Very cool!
The Florida pool pump motor bearing repair guy When Service Calls Longwood approved ! that was good info
Thanks Jay
Just bought a manual tire changer from Harbor freight. Removes tires fantastic. I found that the install end sucks and I will modify it so it grips the rim better. I need to use pry bars........... I meant tire spoons that look like pry bars🤣to put the tire back on. Maybe I will just buy one of those duck bills and build one like yours. The other thing I found out about this machine it only took 3 tires to bend the bead breaker so I will need to reinforce that. I should have some angle iron that will work for that. All in all I am pretty happy with my purchase. I live 50 miles away from anyplace that does tire work.
Tried to use 2 foot long sections of rebar to anchor it to the ground. I have very hard ground so I figure it would work. Nope, pulls up pretty easy. I have some old railroad ties that I can use some long lag bolts to fasten it to and then just bury the tie. Should be solid. Just not ready to drill holes in my new cement slab.
The vise grips are an essential part of changing lawn mower tires. Without the vice grips you can find a small lawn mower tire forever. I like your tool I just might copy it. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely
You’re a real king man of DIY Mechanic. You make my day 🎉
You are a legend. I grew up breaking tires down with bumper Jack to break the bead and 2 spoons for the tires. My pops was old school. This is awesome. Do you have a video that shows how to make your last tool you showed with ball bearing to install? Getting off is easy enough. I hate messing up tire on cold days with 2 spoons
ua-cam.com/video/85-K8Qi4UTA/v-deo.html this is the other one I built.
I have always wanted to try something like this . Thank you for posting a real life demo . Keeping it real, nice work 👍
Thanks for watching!
I purchased two of those duck bill heads because they are plastic. and I wanted to have a spare in case one of them broke. and because the seller had an offer where if I got two of them I could get a significant reduction in the cost. so it was basically like I got the second one for free and while I was at it the seller had a video of how it works on the tire machine that they are made for. and something that I noticed is on the arm on the machine. the duck bill head is attached so it allows it to swivel some as it's pushed against the wheel. and I think the main reason for this is for different size wheels. so I built mine in such a way that I took a piece of tube that slides down over the main post that sticks up from the tire machine. then I took two pieces of square stock one that will just slide inside the other. and welded the larger diameter piece to the tube that go on the tire machine. and made the arm out of the smaller diameter piece. and put set bolts on it so that the arm can be adjusted in and out for the diameter of wheel, and up and down for the width of wheel. then welded a piece of round stock on the tube that goes on the tire machine to put the bar in, to turn the assembly around to remove and replace the tire. and the first thing I did to the tire machine was to take that spoon thing off and take the grinder to it so it wasn't so blunt. that was a huge improvement for breaking the beads on the tires. and the next thing I have to do to it is change that goofy pin set up. that they got on it for holding the wheel still. then it will be a pretty good tire machine to use. after spending a hundred and eighty some $ at Les Schwab for four dismounts and mounts. I decided I need to change my own tires.
Awesome.
Your channel is priceless. Your style is unparalleled. I hope you get 300M subs. How you continue to come up with unique clever solutions that arent already pasted all over the internet to do mundane yet useful tasks .. I will never understand. And, on top of that, you make it fun to watch. Great talent. Thanks for sharing, and please be encouraged to continue. Thanks. p.s. go team Ginger
Hey Thanks.
I got the ducks head you listed. Heading into work now to mill out a solid aluminum block with a couple tapped holes for set screws. Thank you for the idea!
Good idea, and I appreciate you narrating your thoughts , so many videos with no sound lose me . 👍
Thanks 👍
I made the bar last year with round tube and after a few tire changes today I'm planning to add the flat surface so the bar is less likely to rotate. I'll check the angle of the duckbill too but I adjusted that once already after I initially welded it up so I think it's a decent angle.
Glad I am fortunate enough to have an electric-pneumatic tire machine
Pretty sure ive always thought it if I've never said it, but once again "dude's brilliant". Thanks for sharing your experience with us all.
Wow, thanks!
Dude you are like a mad inventor in a good way` all your stuff you make is great ,
Some Ideas you come up with on other vid`s its just what I`me like,
It save`s a fortune and most of the time it works better than the original..
I bought a small pneumatic Tyre changer like the Sealey TC962 some years ago off a small closing down garage for 150.00 years ago
,My Tyre changer is like yours stuck` with all sorts getting in the way,
The first Tyre I changed taken just over an hour I did not lookup the correct way to remove it I was sweating buckets my back in bits and I bent my bar through the force i was giving it,
After several foul words and wanting to smash my Tyre changer,
I taken a break looked up UA-cam and realized I had been doing it all wrong sequence,
Went back and within several minutes removed , balanced ,new valve job done ,
Did I learn a hard lesson that day" I surely did.
I heard that if you balance a Tyre put in on a vehicle drive 50 miles or so taken that wheel back and it will be slightly out again but not as much.
I also heard that when you brake after having a new Tyre replace it will move on the rim slightly at first,
Not sure if these facts are true but if it did this could explain the inaccuracy if balanced again,
Tire imbalance is constantly occurring/ changing. Some of it is because the tire is slightly out of round and as it heats up it settles. The further out the weight, the more dramatic of a difference it makes on balance. So if you had a little bit of a flat spot as soon as it rounds out the balance has completely changed. A tiny pebble in the tread grove. A glob of mud on the inside of the rim. Sometimes just the harmonic vibrations of the tread grooves can create imbalance. They try to mitigate this by having a non-uniform tread pattern if you look closely.
Just got the Duck Head mounting/dismounting tool from Amazon today. A little disappointed that it was of a plastic material but optimistic after watching your videos!!
Yeah, virtually all these professional machines use plastic duck heads. There are s few that are aluminum but then have plastic snap on covers (those are expensive).
Welding the bar on the opposite side of the flat will reduce the twist and improve the function greatly. Probably better than adding flat bars, etc.. Nice vid.
I have made a bunch of mods to my HF tire changer. Mostly just making it more beefy with welds and such. But I did buy a duck bill, which is bolted to the end of the original tire bar, through one hole. It gets switched back and forth between holes depending on which direction I am using it. One hole for mount, one hole for dismount. The fact that it can swivel while moving it around the tire bead, makes it work pretty well. The only drawback is the need to swap the bolt hole in between mounts/dismounts. I have always used this duck bill in different directions for mount/dismounts, but maybe I have been doing it wrong?
I might try a copy of your setup, with a piece of square stock, and with a swiveling mount to the duck bill. I had also though about adding a leverage bar between me and the center post of the changer, just to keep the whole thing from twisting and angling the duck bill off the bead during a mount.
Thanks for the ideas. Once my deer is done hanging in the shop (aging) I can heat it up out there and get some work done.
Yeah my Harbor Freight tire changer got quite a few added welds on it when it was new. Luckily it hasn't broken or fatigued in the last number of years.
Great video!! I haven't used it but it looks like the duckbill might need to rotate the other direction for installation. Mostly cause it works great unmount, but struggles on.mounting
your channel should be mandatory learning in every high school
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
American ingenuity gotta love it and the money you save you can't beat it with a stick . And catching a freebie on the way home score 👊
Heck yeah!
Freaky, I just bought a manual changer and this video comes up. Good work! I will be making one
Cool, thanks!
Man!
I wish you were my neighbor!
Thank you :)
made my day Dude....i put a small dent in an old American Racing daisy mag before i saw this video.......when my changer head arrives tomorrow(amazon thanks you) i will finish swapping those four tires and wheels!!
This thing has been amazing. The only issue I have run into the varying size of rims. I did some 12" and the angle was barely good enough to work and it did fine but not as good as the 14-17" rims I set it up for. I also did a 20" super low profile the other day and it worked fine but the angle could have been better. So I was thinking of putting and few more holes in the head for the 2 bolts to position to. Or I guess they could be slots so the head to move to accommodate the extreme rim sizes better.
@@sixtyfiveford i got mine from Amazon and it seems to be for larger dia wheels I put BFG TA's on American racing coke bottles(Daisy) and it flat wore me out....proper tire lube(bead-eze) and it got me over the top. I am a subscriber and also like that paint shaker!
Great video. Your welds look quite decent too! Thanks for posting.
You are one of the most clever guys I watch on UA-cam ! Funny I was thinking the same mod only as you found wider would be better to keep it from rolling. Keep the vids coming !
Hey thanks!
Nice video. Thanks for the education. I will improve my elapsed time for removing, mounting tires with your help.
Easy & cheap got my attention LOL . It has been over a year since I used my tire changer but that duck bill makes it look a lot easier.
I have been laid up for over 3 weeks & way behind projects. Not sure when I will be going again & uploading new videos. I have to check any not finished videos & maybe get something uploaded.
Stay well Moe, Joe Z
That’s brilliant like the design improvements as you go thru build
Frickin love this! The end clip is awesome! Ginger is the best
Thanks
Brilliant I like things made mostly out of scrap materials..
So ingenious. Love your process to make it right. Great video👍👍
Really love seeing the work through thought process. Thank you.
Hey thanks
Another great build and I also love how the can shaker made an appearance. I seriously need to make one of those!
Hey thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Buenas noche hermano gracias por enseñar lo pondré en práctica excelente idea desde Venezuela Carabobo Ali Molina
Thanks. This is perfect for living off grid.
life saver ! not all heroes wear a cape , sometimes just dirty hands :)))
cool video, I just ruined the bead on a small tire, I wish I had that tool. I'd like to see a video on how you made the bottom part that holds the tire, that's just as important as the tool you're demonstrating.
Thanks boss, I got it set up and its easy as crap to use!
I have worried for days how to build something like this. I don’t know why they can’t sell an inexpensive product that works well, like your design. I wish I can make one for you, using your parts, but using a square tubing instead of a round tubing. Job well done - thank you, sir!
Thanks for a well done vid showing the nuance of the process.
Thank you very much for this! You gave me the inspiration to build my own for cheap
You just made a subscriber outta me! I thought your plastic welding videos were awesome, but I really like this too.
Hey thanks
the original ones had a slot on the top of the bar to keep it from rolling But still easier than tire irons. and less chance of scratching.
I built your first one and had my brother 3D print a plastic L instead of melted milk jug. Works good for my needs. I’ll stick with it instead of the duckbill type. I like the motorcycle tire end too. That’s the best!
Thanks! I had my dad build this today. Beat the 300 dollar lucid kit or a day of fabbing our own
Great video, thanks for sharing! I’m making one soon!
Great job on the arm to remove install tire. Course anything you do is really well built and thought out. Thanks for sharing Moe.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
I think that the duck bill takes them off in one direction and on in the other. Two bars(one on each side) might work easier. You can always join them up after the vertical pipe.
Very good video. Thank you very much.
Hello sixtyfiveford.
Great tool and video. I have a thought for you about tge bolt heads hitting the rim. You could try a piece of shrink tubing, the same as used on wiring. You cound get a piece big enough to go over the bolt head,cut it a bit longer then the thickness of the bolt. Heat it with a heat gun, shrink the extra piece to cover the top of the bolt head.
Just a thought. Have a great day.
You might also solve the twisting problem by having 2 pieces of square tubing down the bar near the duckbill that would straddle the center post. That way it would be straight with the center pull point and the flat on each side to keep it from twisting.
Isn’t that what he did in the video unless u means something different then let us know because mines still twisting after same mods
@Derpherppington he accomplished about half of what I am talking about when he put the flat bar on the side to make a flat bearing surface. The addition that I was talking about would be square tubing added to go around the other side of the center post. If it was snug enough to rattle but not bind, it would stop it from twisting. The generation of tire machines before what we have now had a bar with a slot down the middle that would ride on a pin and keep it straight. I will see if I can make a short video of a sketch and link. Comment section is not allowing me to post a photo in the comment.
@@Derpherppington ua-cam.com/video/bQc6I00_YEk/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
@@Derpherppington ua-cam.com/video/bQc6I00_YEk/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
@@josephacker3328 now I see what’s your talking about I was also thinking of welding something like to keep it from twisting but the bar would get big and bulky. I ended up cut it all up and going with the other U bracket route with adjustable nuts
Ha, I still have the parts laying around for your last one, but I never got to it! Have been trying to get back to it recently, but glad I procrastinated. Just ordered that duck bill attachment to make it easier. Thanks!
That's funny. I just wanted to see if I could make a quick simple version.
Great idea! I'm 81, and didn't figure on changing a lot more tires, but at what it is going to cost for the duck bill, I am going to make one. It is too bad, that having the bar higher on the duck bill, causes enough torque to cause it to slip off the rim. I might attempt to build it so that the bar is lower, even though It will require a bigger angle. What are a few more welds, when I own a grinder. 🙂
BTW: I really like the look of your other bar, and am probably going to build that one as well.
I’m very impressed! Good job👍
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Wow this is way better than what I did years ago. Definitely going to have to borrow this idea.
Could even put a wider plate on there to stabilize the bar for less roll.
Good idea!
Absolutely.
To combat the twisting force while mounting the tire you could use square tubing instead of pipe for the handle. This would keep the flat edge against the center bar during installation and prevent the twisting that lifts the duckbill off the rim.
He did figure out and mention that square would be better for that reason. :)
Awesome !!!
This is really a game changer. Thanks for your video.
Thanks. I love this thing.
I made one almost the same as yours but with a 1/2" x 1" solid bar vs a pipe. It works ok for removing tires but does not work for installing them at least for lower profile tires which are extremely tight on the bead. I had to use my ken-tool tire bars and my Ken-tool aluminum bead holders for installation. There is just no room for the duck head.
Walmart service center shut down so many mom and pop tire services. Do it yourself if possible. Good video.
Nice idea. You might want to consider modifying it, so it can fit as a Hi Lift jack adapter. Should be useful for offroading/overlanding.
You are amazing sir ,now I have to find my old balance tripod, thank you
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Very well done and well thought out thank you.