What I do, for what it's worth... Hone both blade and nicker to the highest polish you can achieve,the nicker could do with some of its depth ground off to make starting the cut easier as it can make the starting cuts a bit wobbly. I prefer attaching a larger fence which adds to stability in the cut. Don't take such a heavy cut,at least not on end grain. Either sever the end fibres with a marking knife or clamp the piece against a waste block, this will eliminate end tearout. Start at the end of the cut and gradually 'plow' to the start, don't know why it just works. Some people have difficulty maintaining the angle true and tend to dip off 90°, good trick to avoid this is to plow a small 3mm groove at your width line first then remove the rest of the waste with a larger 20mm iron or whatever the width is Good luck.
Support the outward end of your board. Also, start at the end of the dado and work backwards into the board as you reach the bottom of each cut section. Do not try to cut the whole length of the dado in one pass, do it in sections. You are doing fine, keep up the great work!
I'm trying to cut housings (dados) with a Record #50 and I'm also seeing quite a lot of tearout. In my case I've narrowed it down to the wear and tear on the slots holding the main cutting blade; some of the material has rusted away and the rust has been cleaned out, meaning that my blade sits about 1/128" too far into the body of the plane and the sliding section. The result is the blade extends out just beyond the spurs. I plan to make some small washers to space out the body around the blade before trying again. Your problem seems to be split-off rather that tear-out, but I'd still suggest you sight down the length of the plane body and make sure that the blade is no further outside than the spur; it should be absolutely flush with the reference edge and the slightest horizontal movement the wrong way can render the spur useless. It looks like the spurs aren't cutting properly, so the blade is wasting material away that it shouldn't be. Make sure the cutting depth is less that the protrusion of the spur, and that the spur is sharp. The other suggestion is to pull the plane backwards to score a line with the spur before starting; you may be doing this at the start but it's not shown in the video. Many people seem to forget the spurs and use a knife and/or a chisel to create a defined edge.
Square irons doesn't works well on cross grain. Try some rabbet plane with skewed iron and add some support (piece of wood with the same thickness) on the end of cutting way. This support will save end of your rabbet. Regards!
Not that you do something wrong, I think Stavros's answer is adequate, Usually is better a skewed iron for crossgrain, and adding more support at the end cut point, with other wood, will solve the tearout. Cheers
Use a saw to cut off within a 1/16 or 1/32, then go to final depth with the router plane. You can skew the router plane to cut cross grain. You can also split the wood with a chisel and finish with the router plane.
Just wondering if you ever solved this issue I do know that the blade cutting depth has to be less than the small side cutter which is what cuts the end grain and must be sharp and the final thing is blade sharpness it must be like a razor. Honed and stropped to a fine edge.
Wenn ich Querholz bearbeite, dann klemme ich ein Opferholz an die Austrittskante dadurch verhindere ich ein Ausreißen. Als nächstes bearbeite ich Querholz nicht so agressiv wie Langholz. Du solltest das mit dem Opferholz mal ausprobieren und einen kleineren Span einstellen.
The Stanley 50 was originally a beading plane, people soon started to use it as a plough plane.www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan7.htm This is not the correct plane to be using across the end grain, try this video.ua-cam.com/video/iGXUCsZ8OI4W/v-deo.htmlooden rabbet plane endgrain.ua-cam.com/video/HAes2cML_G4/v-deo.html
What I do, for what it's worth...
Hone both blade and nicker to the highest polish you can achieve,the nicker could do with some of its depth ground off to make starting the cut easier as it can make the starting cuts a bit wobbly.
I prefer attaching a larger fence which adds to stability in the cut.
Don't take such a heavy cut,at least not on end grain.
Either sever the end fibres with a marking knife or clamp the piece against a waste block, this will eliminate end tearout.
Start at the end of the cut and gradually 'plow' to the start, don't know why it just works.
Some people have difficulty maintaining the angle true and tend to dip off 90°, good trick to avoid this is to plow a small 3mm groove at your width line first then remove the rest of the waste with a larger 20mm iron or whatever the width is
Good luck.
Support the outward end of your board. Also, start at the end of the dado and work backwards into the board as you reach the bottom of each cut section. Do not try to cut the whole length of the dado in one pass, do it in sections. You are doing fine, keep up the great work!
I'm trying to cut housings (dados) with a Record #50 and I'm also seeing quite a lot of tearout. In my case I've narrowed it down to the wear and tear on the slots holding the main cutting blade; some of the material has rusted away and the rust has been cleaned out, meaning that my blade sits about 1/128" too far into the body of the plane and the sliding section. The result is the blade extends out just beyond the spurs. I plan to make some small washers to space out the body around the blade before trying again.
Your problem seems to be split-off rather that tear-out, but I'd still suggest you sight down the length of the plane body and make sure that the blade is no further outside than the spur; it should be absolutely flush with the reference edge and the slightest horizontal movement the wrong way can render the spur useless.
It looks like the spurs aren't cutting properly, so the blade is wasting material away that it shouldn't be. Make sure the cutting depth is less that the protrusion of the spur, and that the spur is sharp. The other suggestion is to pull the plane backwards to score a line with the spur before starting; you may be doing this at the start but it's not shown in the video. Many people seem to forget the spurs and use a knife and/or a chisel to create a defined edge.
Square irons doesn't works well on cross grain. Try some rabbet plane with skewed iron and add some support (piece of wood with the same thickness) on the end of cutting way. This support will save end of your rabbet. Regards!
Not that you do something wrong, I think Stavros's answer is adequate, Usually is better a skewed iron for crossgrain, and adding more support at the end cut point, with other wood, will solve the tearout. Cheers
How much blade depth is in contact with wood. You may have to much causing blade to dig too deep. cheers from Tasmania
Is unfortunately not sharpened enough, but i learn over the years :) thanks for comment.
Use a saw to cut off within a 1/16 or 1/32, then go to final depth with the router plane. You can skew the router plane to cut cross grain. You can also split the wood with a chisel and finish with the router plane.
Just wondering if you ever solved this issue I do know that the blade cutting depth has to be less than the small side cutter which is what cuts the end grain and must be sharp and the final thing is blade sharpness it must be like a razor. Honed and stropped to a fine edge.
But, it works...
Wenn ich Querholz bearbeite, dann klemme ich ein Opferholz an die Austrittskante dadurch verhindere ich ein Ausreißen. Als nächstes bearbeite ich Querholz nicht so agressiv wie Langholz.
Du solltest das mit dem Opferholz mal ausprobieren und einen kleineren Span einstellen.
The Stanley 50 was originally a beading plane, people soon started to use it as a plough plane.www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan7.htm This is not the correct plane to be using across the end grain, try this video.ua-cam.com/video/iGXUCsZ8OI4W/v-deo.htmlooden rabbet plane endgrain.ua-cam.com/video/HAes2cML_G4/v-deo.html
Bonjour,
vous devez mettre une pièce martyre à la fin de la pièce pour prévenir les éclats.
bonjour, j'ai la roue dessus. ;)
Schliesse mich meinem Vorredner an. Opferholz ist obligat.