Dude that was one of the best educational woodworking videos I’ve seen in a long time. I just bought a Stanley number 45 now I just need to get some more cutters for it.
Still have my record 405, exactly the same as the Stanly 45,, bought for me when I was 15 ( 65 years ago) For £15, still use it occasionally when noise is a problem. Thanks for the video.
Having owned it for several months I just put a blade in my 45 and used it for the first time today. I noticed the engraved date of manufacture (22 Jan 1895), so it's Happy Birthday Stanley! :-)
Yes, 122 years since its manufacture date and it's still a useful tool. Fascinating to think how much the world has changed during its existence. Thank you for the informative video, BTW.
Thanks James, I just picked up a 45 at an estate sale yesterday. It was surprising to find in its box all the cutters, instructions, and the screwdriver. Thanks for the video I look forward to trying it out.
Usually I suggest people just buy them individually rather than trying to buy a full set. You'll never use them all. And most the time you can pick up individuals for around five bucks a piece. So just purchase them as you need them.
Don't be shy about a longer video. All ways interesting, we get to see others at work and play. And hell see how you use the tool. cheers from Tasmania.
Great vid! I have a Stanley 45 and a No. 50 also. I like them both a lot. I usually grab the 50 more often because it's very light if I have to groove 200 ft. of door stiles.
Very enjoyable, and informative. He called them nickers but the instruction manual calls them spurs. I had no idea what they were used for or why but this answered the question.
James - thanks for filming this demo. This will help me get my restored 45 in working order. I received a box of vintage cutters I’m going to have to remove the rust and sharpen. Looking forward to seeing what it will do.
I picked up one of these very planes today at a tool sale. It was because of your video. The best part about this whole thing is I think I saw you at that sale today!
@@WoodByWright I didn't even know there was one happening there? Perhaps I'll see you there! By the way, Thanks for the content, I love this plane and have already had a lot of joy using it. It was all thanks to your recommendation, so thank you.
Glad to see you showing how more blades can be used on these multi plane a lot I looked at just showing a rabbit or a grove these planes are so much more than just to uses and are a valuable bit of kit if you don’t want to use a roughter and doing handwork much more fun onece set up just as quick
In case you have a 45 or 55 and are missing blades or don't have the full set of blades, the Lee Valley/Veritas blades for their combination plane (a beautiful plane, BTW) are compatible with the 45 & 55. I think they may also have a few profiles that weren't available in the original blade sets.
Another fun video ! What an amazing tool. As I set up my own well worn before I got it 45, I like to let myself imagine a craftsman in 1900 or so being able to finish the interior of a house making the trim, windows and doors along with cabinets etc. and even the beaded wall boards. I love it when I get a chance to see a craftsman era home that was built during the days when electrical carpentry tools were a new concept !
Lovely video, makes me want to go and make some shavings. Just one thing though, with all plough and moulding planes, wood or metal, you start the cut near the far end of the board, not the edge near your hip. This way the blades which have about 1 degree relief angle on the sides (trapezoidal cross section) has a chance for the sides of the blade to be used to clean up the sides of the cut. If you start at the end nearest you the blade is digging underneath the surface and is much harder to use, and does not have a chance to make as clean a cut. I have a lovely screw-stem plough with the 8 blades, and an Emir moving Filister plane with three blades, in wood. I also have the Stanley 50 plough, the 45 and 55 multiplanes. They are so much fun and for a project like a shelf for a pantry, you will have finished the job using these planes in less time than it takes to set up a router table.
thnaks. that is a methoud that a lot of people like to use. I find it to just be an extra step. but that is what makes the sport fun. there are a thousand ways to do it.
Right On! Great demo. I’ve worked with power tools all my life and now that I started watching the Master Craftsman videos on line started switching over to hand tools. I find it much more relaxing and rewarding. Recently I tried dovetails with handsaw and chisel and after 16 loved the experience of mastering the challenge. Keep up the videos. You are great at explaining your topics.
you all prolly dont care but does anyone know of a way to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly lost my password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Louie Brentley thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I have been a woodworker for a couple of years now that I am retired, and I use both powered and hand tools based on which will do the best job and sometimes which will produce the best results. I have a Stanley 45 but with most of the 55 irons. What keeps me from using the 45 is getting it set up properly. You have given excellent info on the cuts the 45 can make, but could you go into some details on how you set the irons, depth stops, etc?
I have wanted to do that video for a while but every time I sat down to do it I ran into issues with either too much information, as there are so many possible issues, or it was really hard to explain on video. every time you set it up there are different things that could be the problem and every piece of wood is different too. but most of the time the problem comes down to it not being sharp, taking too deep a cut, or assuming the skates and fence are parallel (they never are). I might have to attempt it again some time. thanks!
"When the student is ready the teacher will arrive" I am recently retired and just dug out my fathers Stanley 45. I want to work with hand tools and so between your excellent videos and my complete early 45 this student is off and running. THANKS!
I enjoyed this video but have to correct one thing. Your window glazing instructions are inside out. The decorative profile goes to the inside while the rebate faces the weather and is filled with putty. Thanks for the intro to the 45. John
Hello, I do enjoy your videos and recently got a Stanely 45 (didn't think I would ever own one). I wanted to ask what are your most used cutters for your combination planes? It didn't come with any, However I am making a tounge and grove set, some flat planes for datos and rebates and maybe a beading cutter too. I was wondering if there were any other useful ones you would recommend making too.
Generally the list you provided will cover you 99.9% of the time. Unless you start getting into intricate moldings that's all you really need. Generally I tell people don't buy sets of irons. You won't use half of them. Just buy the ones you need as you need them. You can usually buy them individually for five bucks or less or you can buy the brand new ones from Veritas.
Yeah if you want to make them exactly whatever you're with wants to be. You'd usually want two of them making it easier to set up both at the same time. But that's a lot of setup box.
I saw you have a 50 now. Which is your favorite to use? 45, 50 or 55? I think I want a 50 mainly just for rabbets and dadoes. I like the simplicity of it compared to the others. Thanks for all you do. I really enjoy your videos and appreciate your time and wisdom, not to mention selflessness.
I use the 45 most. it is more comfortable then the 50. but the 50 is cheaper. here is a video comparing them all. ua-cam.com/video/R9VsVJYTLxk/v-deo.html
I like it james. I have a 45 and a Sargent version of it that I like but I'm not that good with them cause I don't experiment with them enough. I plan to though
James, terrific content! I’m new to all of this, and find your videos really helpful. I picked up a Stanley 45 some weeks ago and just getting to play with it. The 45 I got does not have the wood on the fence. Is there a standard width, length, or type for wood for screwing on to the fence? Thanks!
When using the tongue and groove blade did you flip the nickers up so they wouldn’t score or would they not be able to touch the bottom of the groove either way?
it is a fun one for sure. I did a live video on it a few months back on the second channel where I went through the setup in Realtime if you want to see that.
Often times at work I need to make a board with a tongue and or a groove. I hate to drag out the table saw for one board so I'm looking for a hand plane to make quick work of it. Sometimes the tongue and groove need to be centered sometimes not. Is this the one I want?
Stanley 45 would definitely be the one if you want to do different size grooves. However, you can get a swing arm tongue and groove plane and it's one plane that's always set up to do the exact same tongue and groove. It takes a little bit more to set up the first time, but once it's set up it's really quick work.
Thanks for the great video. Could you tell me if this tool can be re-jigged so a left-handed person can use it? It actually looks like it can be used for both left and right persons, for all the blades. Thanks again. - Ken.
I own the Veritas versions of these. I would have to say that I basically do not use the combination plane at all. Everything that I do can be done with the small plough plane (I have both the left and right handed/orientation). The Combination plane is nice, but it's simply too heavy to do any extended work for a long time. At that point, I just pull out the dado stack on the table saw.
cool video. Like some of the others already posted, sharpening and making your own cutters would be an interesting topic. I was also wondering how the repeatedly of the setup is. Would you have to batch out a project or can you dial the plane in to a previous setting? Or would having several wood body planes be better for that? Keep up the good work!
Repeatability is fairly easy as you can set it on work you have already done and move the fence and depth stop to match. the big thing for this is it is easier to take to a job site then 45 wooden hand planes. I have never thought of making my own but it should be easily do able. I will have to give it a try. I will be doing a video on sharpening some time soon.
Wood By Wright thanks ive searched the innerwebs and it seems anywhere from 30-38 degrees and 25/30 for softwoods like pine i just got it and your video is the one that shows the plane the best and yours works great ! The sargent only has 1 set of knickers though , ill try it and see where i end up ! Thanks !!!!
@@07roadking43 sweets. for those combination planes in all honesty you will never notice the difference in angle between 20 and 40 degrees. Until you've been working with it for years on end he will not be able to feel or see a difference. It's one of those fine point things that only the old-timers really can tell a difference.
Thanks for the video, that is a gorgeous tool. I remember looking in my Mams mail order catalogue when I was a kid at all the lovely wood working tools, oh God if I could go back in time I would be a person that works with wood. Now I am a quite old git lol. Made a nice bird table/ stand/house thing recently for my sister (because of youtube vid) which she loves and I am doing another one for my other sister . I need to get some tools like I used to drool about when I was a kid, that would be great and make all kinds of things. Better late than never eh?
I would like to see a video on the anatomy of a no. 45. Im looking to buy one off ebay and sometimes it is hard to know if they have all the parts and pieces
Well the problem is that different versions came with different extras. So there is no one set. And most of the time I tell people to get a cheaper one that is missing a few items and get them as you need them. And most of those parts you will never use.
Yes you can buy them individually or on sets. The cutters from Veritas also fit in it. My general suggestion is buy the cutters you need for the project don't buy sets.ost of the time you will not use 75% of them.
I love my 45! Take any chance to use it I can. It may not be perfect but it makes me smile. Great video and look forward to finding out why I need a no. 55 too 😂
I used my 45 to completely rebuild a 12 light window that was utterly destroyed by a burglar last year. It worked great for that though it was some fiddly work piecing it all together and cutting glass to fit.
Please do a few more on this. Not 3 hour long, but several shorter ones. Specific question: could you make specific cutters for this plane, if you have a specific need for a specific mold or bead? Like a double bead, or an ogee? Other question, dado in the middle of the board?
+Willem Kossen I might have to. when I do the 55 next week there will be a lot more. and I may have a project coming up where I will be using the slitting knife. You can always make your own cutter. I have seen people do it out of circular saw blades. as well as reshaping an existing cutter. Are you asking about a stop dado? if so you can but you have to have a hole for the font skate to drop in to. I did a stop groove recently. In this video about 5:50 in ua-cam.com/video/8BVXCaT4ICk/v-deo.html
Hi, I have the Stanley 050 and working with the fence on the right hand side (I am left handed) but I get some damage from the depth stop. Do you get this because the video did not show the finish. Colin from Northern Ireland
no. The depth stop should only touch it on the last pass, but even then it should not damage the wood. I would make sure there is no bur or other sharp edge on it. a quick filing might be just the thing.
You can usually find them on eBay. If not set up an eBay notification and I'm sure it one will pop up soon. Otherwise the next best place is on the unplugged woodworker group on Facebook. Someone on there usually has an extra couple. And last you could make one yourself out of a small piece of hacksaw blade.
Recently saw "rounds and hollows" for a 45 online. Can you demonstrate how those attachments/cutters work? I am assuming you have them :D or know someone who does and has produced a video. Although other links to documentation on use would also be appreciated! I really enjoy your products. You, Rex, Paul, rob C, Katz and the lot are very fun to watch and learn from. Frankly, it was due to covid (time and distance) and a flea market continental plane purchase that lead me down the hand tool woodworking path. :)
Unfortunately those attachments are incredibly expensive. If you had a full set of them usually the price goes for somewhere around $600 to $800. And individually they are around 100 bucks a piece. Stanley did not make many of them and so they're fairly hard to find. I would love to show some off someday but have never had the chance. Though the setup on them is fairly simple. It's just like a wooden style and they slide onto the rods in between the two skates.
@@WoodByWright Yes. I noticed you could buy 2 x no.55 for the price of a full set-which would eliminate the need for the attachments. Why I put a big smile :D old style there. When a search didn't produce a how to or demonstration of the device on UA-cam given the plethora of other videos on the no.45/R405, I figured that was case. Last night, I did see where a person posted some pics of his no.45 and a home made wooden round for the one he was missing from his set. He also made another home made attachments for it such as a Kerffing Plane. Some ideas for your show or Rex who's show format is more of the DIY on a budget. I hope someday you get some for a reasonable price in your collection. Love the show!
Hi James. You seem to be the master of Stanley planes so I thought I'd ask you. I've been lucky enough to get a Stanley number 45 in excellent shape. The only part missing is the slitting blade and the number 10 plow blade is broken. Otherwise it is complete and in great shape with almost no rust.. I'd like to have some idea when it was made. It is nickel plated, not Japanned. It has the micro adjust on the fence. Other than that, I'm not really sure what to look for. The few sources I've found online are very confusing and contradictory. Any help would be appreciated...
For parts, the first place I normally go is a Facebook group called The parts division. Second, I'll go down a list of sellers on handToolfinder.com almost all of them have piles of parts that they can pick from. As to dating the plane, I don't know of a good source online that has information for that. There are a few people who have done a type study on it but I don't currently have information to get in contact with them.
+lanceo235 That depends on its quality and where you are. in Europe the starting price is $100 or more. In the USA for just the 45 with a single blade in Ok condition you can often find them for around $50 if you want a full set of blades the going rate is around $100 for the kit. if yo want an original box with all the blades in good condition it is around $150-$200. Hope that answers your questions. I do have a challenge going on now where you can win one with a full set of irons and an original box. here ua-cam.com/video/WP0L5uLlpuc/v-deo.html
+Wood By Wright thanks that's perfect. I found one at an antique store for 95$ with a box of cutters I didn't have them pull it out of the dark case since I wasn't prepared to spend that kind of money on an unknown. I would love to join the contest but I am getting ready to Deploy so not a lot of shop time for me as of late.
+lanceo235 If it is in a functional condition I Would say that is a fair price. And thanks for your service on your upcoming deployment. that has got to cut down on the shop time.
+Wood By Wright I might have to go and take another look at it. Thank you very much and it definitely does cut down on the shop time I have been trying to come up with a way that I can take some woodworking tools with me maybe even just a carving knife and some bass wood. Hopefully I can think of something.
@@WoodByWright it looked like for whatever reason the last tounge you made messed up for some reason, and it looked like you were holding it where you hand covered it. It could just be how it looks in the video if so not a big deal. You probably didn't even realize it was looking like you were doing that.
I've been working on (slowly) a series about using the #45 for its '7' different functions. One of my favorite tools, which is probably why I've got somewhere around 16-18 of them currently
At some point I hope to have one of each type, or at least the feasible types (I may never in my lifetime end up with an aluminum #45, who knows). I'm sure we could come up with something if we wanted to :)
+Cactus! workshop Thanks! the sound of feel of wood is one of the pleasures of working with hand tools. a router may do a faster job but this is just so much more fun!
I am recently moving towards using hand tools as a woodworking hobyist and have been very luckily given a record 405 in the box with 23 blades in imaculate condition by a very good friend. I have, however been looking for guidance on the 405 but find most info is on the more premium stanley 45. should you have any links or advice regarding differences I would appreciate your input. Also Keep up with the videos. I need my fix of top quality streams and youtube uploads here in the UK. Thanks for putting in the effort and producing very enjoyable material. PS-: Also got a record Num 4 given and in ok condition so a handy backup to the bench vice for the non Bio work :D
there are several different variations of both so not all of the parts can interchange but for the most part, the Sargent 1080 is just a copy of the #45.
+BCdesign It is on tell july 1st ua-cam.com/video/WP0L5uLlpuc/v-deo.html and for people in europe we can just make your entry a Europe only entry so that you do not have to ship to the US
I have a question for anyone on this page willing to comment: I have a Stanley 50 which came with a full set of blades including a 1/8 and a 3/16. However, when I try to tighten it to anything less than 1/4", the skates come together before the blade is secured. I can see by the original box for the blades that these smaller blades were stock, so I'm puzzled. I would greatly appreciate any input.
Before responding, allow me to express my sincere gratitude for the generosity of you and others for sharing your master skills with us, some of whom, like me, are duffers. I've been an amateur woodworker for decades now but am ashamed to say that the world of hand tools is a weak area for me, and your videos are an essential part of my learning curve. After looking at the plane, I do not see how I can remove the second skate. The three main components are the plane body, the second skate/blade holder, and the fence. The second skate is all one piece. So to remove the skate is also to remove the part that forms the groove that clamps the blade opposite the main body. I don't see a way to upload photos, but perhaps the 45 and 50 are different in this regard?
I now see I didn't quite understand the advice. What you do is, as you suggest, remove the second skate, along with the shaft and wingnut used to tighten it against the blade. You replace the shaft with an appropriate bolt, nut, and washer, and these can now be used to clamp the small blades (1/8", 3/16") in place. This works just fine.
It appears that nickers are not only for an initial scoring because every return stroke precedes every forward stroke with another scoring when the tool is withdrawn in contact with the wood as you appear to be doing in this video. This matters if I am seeing things right.
That's why it's in front of the iron. So it's always making the cut just before the iron gets to it on the forward stroke. The return stroke doesn't have the pressure, so even if it's lightly dragged back across the board, it won't actually cut the fibers. But most people will pick up a rabbit plane rather than drag it back across the board.
Hi, new subscriber here. I was wondering if you have had any experience with a no 46? I've seen more than one blog post claiming that although it doesn't have the molding plane versatility, it's a much better plough/fillester than the 45&55. Thanks for all the great hand tool content!
Thanks. Everyone has a different idea about that. I like it for that but I would rather have one plane for all of it then one for dads and another for all other grooving and molding.
@@WoodByWright That makes sense. I've been moving away from power tools and cast iron planes, heading more towards 19th century English wooden planes but the sheer quantity necessary to cut a good variety of moldings is deflating. You've made the combination planes look like a viable alternative! I was purposefully avoiding them before. I've had experience with other types of multifunction tools that are too bulky or just flat out perform badly. Food for thought, thank you.
the un notched are the early versions. but they soon added the notch for easer adjustment. also the irons made for the #50 were shorter but those did not have a notch.
To check for parallel on groves I use one of the other knives to measure. It is like watching someone eat candy, it makes you want to go out in the shop and make some shaving. Thanks for that, now I need to go dust off Mr.45 ;) Later.
If you were doing a fair amount of tongue and groove I suspect it would be a good idea to have two #45's or a #45 and a #55 just so you could leave a plane set up for each type of cut.
Usually most combination claims are generally left to make the groove for a tongue and groove set. But if you're going to be doing a lot of tongue and groove then generally it's better to pick up a swingarm tongue and groove plane. They're far cheaper and are always set up and ready to go.
@@WoodByWright Sure and that gives me an excuse to buy another plane. From what I have seen from the swing arm tongue and groove planes, they only work best (for some definition of "best" with one thickness of wood. Maybe "best" is a matched pair of wood T&G planes?
Try working your plane from the exit end of the board using shorter cuts and working backwards. That should help avoid all that tear out you experienced on the sash molding you were making.
Nice presentation. I was under the impression that this tool did many jobs albeit somewhat poorly and/or inefficiently. Apparently this is not the case when wielded skillfully……..
Dude that was one of the best educational woodworking videos I’ve seen in a long time. I just bought a Stanley number 45 now I just need to get some more cutters for it.
Still have my record 405, exactly the same as the Stanly 45,, bought for me when I was 15 ( 65 years ago) For £15, still use it occasionally when noise is a problem. Thanks for the video.
Wow nice. that sounds like a fun time!
Having owned it for several months I just put a blade in my 45 and used it for the first time today. I noticed the engraved date of manufacture (22 Jan 1895), so it's Happy Birthday Stanley! :-)
+S. Giles nice. It is fun to pay with a tool that Has so much history.
Yes, 122 years since its manufacture date and it's still a useful tool. Fascinating to think how much the world has changed during its existence. Thank you for the informative video, BTW.
S. Giles where is the date engraved on the plane?
Thanks James, I just picked up a 45 at an estate sale yesterday. It was surprising to find in its box all the cutters, instructions, and the screwdriver. Thanks for the video I look forward to trying it out.
Just picked up a 45 today. I'm so stoked! I will need to get blades as all it came with was a 1/4" plough.
Usually I suggest people just buy them individually rather than trying to buy a full set. You'll never use them all. And most the time you can pick up individuals for around five bucks a piece. So just purchase them as you need them.
Don't be shy about a longer video. All ways interesting, we get to see others at work and play. And hell see how you use the tool. cheers from Tasmania.
Great vid! I have a Stanley 45 and a No. 50 also. I like them both a lot. I usually grab the 50 more often because it's very light if I have to groove 200 ft. of door stiles.
the 50 is a nice tool. much easier to setup too.
Very enjoyable, and informative. He called them nickers but the instruction manual calls them spurs. I had no idea what they were used for or why but this answered the question.
Glad I could help. They go by a bunch of different names all depends on where you are from.
Thank you very much. I purchased one a while back, and now I know how to use it properly.
Thanks for the video, I just got a 45 at a swap meet in April, just had the one cutter, learned a lot, thanks James.
Nice. dont have too much fun!
James - thanks for filming this demo. This will help me get my restored 45 in working order. I received a box of vintage cutters I’m going to have to remove the rust and sharpen. Looking forward to seeing what it will do.
Sweet. Such a fun tool.
I picked up one of these very planes today at a tool sale.
It was because of your video.
The best part about this whole thing is I think I saw you at that sale today!
Nice Wes. Up at the St Francis tool sale? Yes I was there. Are you coming down to the one in loves Park at the end of March? I'll be at that one too.
@@WoodByWright I didn't even know there was one happening there? Perhaps I'll see you there!
By the way, Thanks for the content, I love this plane and have already had a lot of joy using it.
It was all thanks to your recommendation, so thank you.
Glad to see you showing how more blades can be used on these multi plane a lot I looked at just showing a rabbit or a grove these planes are so much more than just to uses and are a valuable bit of kit if you don’t want to use a roughter and doing handwork much more fun onece set up just as quick
In case you have a 45 or 55 and are missing blades or don't have the full set of blades, the Lee Valley/Veritas blades for their combination plane (a beautiful plane, BTW) are compatible with the 45 & 55. I think they may also have a few profiles that weren't available in the original blade sets.
Right on. I am glad they kept the shape
I want Stanley no 55 full set
Another fun video ! What an amazing tool. As I set up my own well worn before I got it 45, I like to let myself imagine a craftsman in 1900 or so being able to finish the interior of a house making the trim, windows and doors along with cabinets etc. and even the beaded wall boards. I love it when I get a chance to see a craftsman era home that was built during the days when electrical carpentry tools were a new concept !
such a cool set of skills that is almost all gone. but got to love the tools!
Lovely video, makes me want to go and make some shavings.
Just one thing though, with all plough and moulding planes, wood or metal, you start the cut near the far end of the board, not the edge near your hip. This way the blades which have about 1 degree relief angle on the sides (trapezoidal cross section) has a chance for the sides of the blade to be used to clean up the sides of the cut. If you start at the end nearest you the blade is digging underneath the surface and is much harder to use, and does not have a chance to make as clean a cut.
I have a lovely screw-stem plough with the 8 blades, and an Emir moving Filister plane with three blades, in wood. I also have the Stanley 50 plough, the 45 and 55 multiplanes. They are so much fun and for a project like a shelf for a pantry, you will have finished the job using these planes in less time than it takes to set up a router table.
thnaks. that is a methoud that a lot of people like to use. I find it to just be an extra step. but that is what makes the sport fun. there are a thousand ways to do it.
At last! Clear explanation on the 45……….please do more, this is a tool I want to master
I have about a dozen different videos on the 45 and 55 now. This one was one of the first that I put out.
Just found a 45 this weekend. Loved your video and will use it for reference as I restore it and put it to use. Got two boxes of irons with it.
Thank you. don't have too much fun!
Right On! Great demo. I’ve worked with power tools all my life and now that I started watching the Master Craftsman videos on line started switching over to hand tools. I find it much more relaxing and rewarding. Recently I tried dovetails with handsaw and chisel and after 16 loved the experience of mastering the challenge. Keep up the videos. You are great at explaining your topics.
thanks Ray. so true. it is a great way to spend time in the shop!
you all prolly dont care but does anyone know of a way to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost my password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Paul Harry instablaster :)
@Louie Brentley thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Louie Brentley It worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my ass !
great video, I also love handling and using these wonderful piexes of old equipment
So true. they are fun.
Need one of those! Definitely quieter and safer than power tools. Slower for sure but half the fun is the therapy of hand woodworking for sure!
My sons inherited their great-grandfather's Stanley 45 and several other planes. I think they are beautiful.
So cool. I love a plane with a history!
I have been a woodworker for a couple of years now that I am retired, and I use both powered and hand tools based on which will do the best job and sometimes which will produce the best results. I have a Stanley 45 but with most of the 55 irons. What keeps me from using the 45 is getting it set up properly. You have given excellent info on the cuts the 45 can make, but could you go into some details on how you set the irons, depth stops, etc?
I have wanted to do that video for a while but every time I sat down to do it I ran into issues with either too much information, as there are so many possible issues, or it was really hard to explain on video. every time you set it up there are different things that could be the problem and every piece of wood is different too. but most of the time the problem comes down to it not being sharp, taking too deep a cut, or assuming the skates and fence are parallel (they never are). I might have to attempt it again some time. thanks!
@@WoodByWright I'm not sure there is such a thing as too much information on this, especially if you get into the 55.
"When the student is ready the teacher will arrive" I am recently retired and just dug out my fathers Stanley 45. I want to work with hand tools and so between your excellent videos and my complete early 45 this student is off and running. THANKS!
Oh that is cool! I love a tool with a story. if you ever have any questions let me know I would love to help out any way I can.
Thank you for this video. I only recently found a Stanley 45 that I was able to afford and did not fully understand all of the things it could do.
My pleasure. It's a seriously fun tool.
Really enjoyed(as always) James and am heading for the "Stanley 55" video now. You really have a gift for explanation/demonstration...cheers...rr
I enjoyed this video but have to correct one thing. Your window glazing instructions are inside out. The decorative profile goes to the inside while the rebate faces the weather and is filled with putty.
Thanks for the intro to the 45. John
Thanks alot.. I just bought the #45 with full set of its blades.. Will go & give it a try.. Thanks again
sweet. Looking forward to what you make. it is a seriously fun tool to play with
Great presentation and instruction James. Thumbs up.
+OG Timbercraft Thanks! love playing with this toy!
Hello, I do enjoy your videos and recently got a Stanely 45 (didn't think I would ever own one). I wanted to ask what are your most used cutters for your combination planes? It didn't come with any, However I am making a tounge and grove set, some flat planes for datos and rebates and maybe a beading cutter too. I was wondering if there were any other useful ones you would recommend making too.
Generally the list you provided will cover you 99.9% of the time. Unless you start getting into intricate moldings that's all you really need. Generally I tell people don't buy sets of irons. You won't use half of them. Just buy the ones you need as you need them. You can usually buy them individually for five bucks or less or you can buy the brand new ones from Veritas.
Thank you for your work.
Seems to me you could use setup blocks to make sure the fence is parallel.... Thanks for sharing, James!
Yeah if you want to make them exactly whatever you're with wants to be. You'd usually want two of them making it easier to set up both at the same time. But that's a lot of setup box.
Great information about a somewhat mysterious tool in my arsenal...thanks!
thanks!
Old school technology, gotta love it.
I have a Stanley no 50, patent date 1903. Any chance a video on this type of plane?
I do not have one. some day. it is very similer to the striped down version of the Stanley 45. I have a video on that one.
I saw you have a 50 now. Which is your favorite to use? 45, 50 or 55? I think I want a 50 mainly just for rabbets and dadoes. I like the simplicity of it compared to the others. Thanks for all you do. I really enjoy your videos and appreciate your time and wisdom, not to mention selflessness.
I use the 45 most. it is more comfortable then the 50. but the 50 is cheaper. here is a video comparing them all. ua-cam.com/video/R9VsVJYTLxk/v-deo.html
I like it james. I have a 45 and a Sargent version of it that I like but I'm not that good with them cause I don't experiment with them enough. I plan to though
yup. they are a tool you have to get to know. but every chance I get to play with one I jump at it.
James, terrific content! I’m new to all of this, and find your videos really helpful. I picked up a Stanley 45 some weeks ago and just getting to play with it. The 45 I got does not have the wood on the fence. Is there a standard width, length, or type for wood for screwing on to the fence? Thanks!
it was originally 1' X 1/2" X 9" long.
Hey James, I can see that this could be real plus to add to the tool line up. Looking forward to the 55 video.
+billfromelma It is one of my favorite tools.
When using the tongue and groove blade did you flip the nickers up so they wouldn’t score or would they not be able to touch the bottom of the groove either way?
if I am doing with the grain they are up so they are not in use. I only use them when going across the grain.
Mine just arrived in the mail an hour ago and I am SOOOOOOO excited. Yeah its complicated so I will find a book.
it is a fun one for sure. I did a live video on it a few months back on the second channel where I went through the setup in Realtime if you want to see that.
Often times at work I need to make a board with a tongue and or a groove. I hate to drag out the table saw for one board so I'm looking for a hand plane to make quick work of it. Sometimes the tongue and groove need to be centered sometimes not. Is this the one I want?
Stanley 45 would definitely be the one if you want to do different size grooves. However, you can get a swing arm tongue and groove plane and it's one plane that's always set up to do the exact same tongue and groove. It takes a little bit more to set up the first time, but once it's set up it's really quick work.
@@WoodByWright thank you so much!! Your videos are awesome
Thanks for the great video. Could you tell me if this tool can be re-jigged so a left-handed person can use it? It actually looks like it can be used for both left and right persons, for all the blades. Thanks again. - Ken.
you can put the fence on either side of the iron so it can go in either direction. also, good if the grain direction changes.
I own the Veritas versions of these. I would have to say that I basically do not use the combination plane at all. Everything that I do can be done with the small plough plane (I have both the left and right handed/orientation). The Combination plane is nice, but it's simply too heavy to do any extended work for a long time. At that point, I just pull out the dado stack on the table saw.
It's a very sophisticated piece of equipment I must admit, but it's just too annoying to set up and use.
How do you sharpen the blades that do beading? I am not sure if I should get rounded whetstones for this, or something else?
I put sand paper on a dowel.
cool video. Like some of the others already posted, sharpening and making your own cutters would be an interesting topic.
I was also wondering how the repeatedly of the setup is. Would you have to batch out a project or can you dial the plane in to a previous setting?
Or would having several wood body planes be better for that?
Keep up the good work!
Repeatability is fairly easy as you can set it on work you have already done and move the fence and depth stop to match. the big thing for this is it is easier to take to a job site then 45 wooden hand planes. I have never thought of making my own but it should be easily do able. I will have to give it a try. I will be doing a video on sharpening some time soon.
I have a sargent 1080PB basically the same as the 45 (not sure what the PB stands for) but what do you sharpen your irons at 35 degrees??? Or less
I have no idea what the angle is. It really does not matter with the bevel down. Most of my plane around are at 30 degrees, that is just an estimate.
Wood By Wright thanks ive searched the innerwebs and it seems anywhere from 30-38 degrees and 25/30 for softwoods like pine i just got it and your video is the one that shows the plane the best and yours works great ! The sargent only has 1 set of knickers though , ill try it and see where i end up ! Thanks !!!!
@@07roadking43 sweets. for those combination planes in all honesty you will never notice the difference in angle between 20 and 40 degrees. Until you've been working with it for years on end he will not be able to feel or see a difference. It's one of those fine point things that only the old-timers really can tell a difference.
Thank you James.
any time
Thanks for the video, that is a gorgeous tool. I remember looking in my Mams mail order catalogue when I was a kid at all the lovely wood working tools, oh God if I could go back in time I would be a person that works with wood. Now I am a quite old git lol. Made a nice bird table/ stand/house thing recently for my sister (because of youtube vid) which she loves and I am doing another one for my other sister . I need to get some tools like I used to drool about when I was a kid, that would be great and make all kinds of things. Better late than never eh?
sounds like a plan. it is a great way to spend time!
Thanks for sharing
another great video. price of stress relief just went up. glad this is only a hobby.
lol it is a serious rabbit hole!
Wood By Wright no doubt
I would like to see a video on the anatomy of a no. 45. Im looking to buy one off ebay and sometimes it is hard to know if they have all the parts and pieces
Well the problem is that different versions came with different extras. So there is no one set. And most of the time I tell people to get a cheaper one that is missing a few items and get them as you need them. And most of those parts you will never use.
Wood By Wright i was mainly talking about the parts on the body. Missing fences or nickers... that sorta thing
It can cut the groove for AQ 21 weather strip on the edge of a door the router bit is now north of 50euro
Nice video
Where can you get the plates from.
HandToolfinder.com is a listing of all of the places I know of to buy anteque hand tools.
Curious....I'm looking at buying a #45, but I don't think it has cutters, are aftermarket cutters available, or do they have to be made...?
Yes you can buy them individually or on sets. The cutters from Veritas also fit in it. My general suggestion is buy the cutters you need for the project don't buy sets.ost of the time you will not use 75% of them.
@@WoodByWright
Great advice....
Thank you.
I love my 45!
Take any chance to use it I can.
It may not be perfect but it makes me smile.
Great video and look forward to finding out why I need a no. 55 too 😂
+Neil Pemberton So true! it is just a fun tool. it is tools like this that make me love woodworking.
I used my 45 to completely rebuild a 12 light window that was utterly destroyed by a burglar last year. It worked great for that though it was some fiddly work piecing it all together and cutting glass to fit.
That was great, thanks James
My pleasure.
Please do a few more on this. Not 3 hour long, but several shorter ones.
Specific question: could you make specific cutters for this plane, if you have a specific need for a specific mold or bead? Like a double bead, or an ogee?
Other question, dado in the middle of the board?
+Willem Kossen I might have to. when I do the 55 next week there will be a lot more. and I may have a project coming up where I will be using the slitting knife. You can always make your own cutter. I have seen people do it out of circular saw blades. as well as reshaping an existing cutter. Are you asking about a stop dado? if so you can but you have to have a hole for the font skate to drop in to. I did a stop groove recently. In this video about 5:50 in ua-cam.com/video/8BVXCaT4ICk/v-deo.html
Thanks so much!
I just looked over your channel and the Video was online for 11 sec. : )
+Not only Wood You are good!
Hi, I have the Stanley 050 and working with the fence on the right hand side (I am left handed) but I get some damage from the depth stop. Do you get this because the video did not show the finish.
Colin from Northern Ireland
no. The depth stop should only touch it on the last pass, but even then it should not damage the wood. I would make sure there is no bur or other sharp edge on it. a quick filing might be just the thing.
great demo!
+usframe thanks.
Great video. Thank you!
thanks Matt. glad you like it!
Nice review James, thank you
+Daniel Solowiej thanks! it is a fun toy!
I have a stanley 50-013 combo. Any help would be appreciated.
I was wondering where I could find replacement knickers? I have recently acquired an old #45 but one of the knickers is missing...
You can usually find them on eBay. If not set up an eBay notification and I'm sure it one will pop up soon. Otherwise the next best place is on the unplugged woodworker group on Facebook. Someone on there usually has an extra couple. And last you could make one yourself out of a small piece of hacksaw blade.
thank you so much, this is very useful video to me :)
My pleasure.
Nice video! Can you cut a sliding dovetail with it?
you can, but it takes a lot more time then just using a saw to cut it.
Wood By Wright-the tails board...not the grooved part. That’s what I was asking. I wasn’t clear.
yup that is what I was referring to.
Recently saw "rounds and hollows" for a 45 online. Can you demonstrate how those attachments/cutters work? I am assuming you have them :D or know someone who does and has produced a video.
Although other links to documentation on use would also be appreciated!
I really enjoy your products. You, Rex, Paul, rob C, Katz and the lot are very fun to watch and learn from. Frankly, it was due to covid (time and distance) and a flea market continental plane purchase that lead me down the hand tool woodworking path. :)
Unfortunately those attachments are incredibly expensive. If you had a full set of them usually the price goes for somewhere around $600 to $800. And individually they are around 100 bucks a piece. Stanley did not make many of them and so they're fairly hard to find. I would love to show some off someday but have never had the chance. Though the setup on them is fairly simple. It's just like a wooden style and they slide onto the rods in between the two skates.
@@WoodByWright
Yes. I noticed you could buy 2 x no.55 for the price of a full set-which would eliminate the need for the attachments. Why I put a big smile :D old style there.
When a search didn't produce a how to or demonstration of the device on UA-cam given the plethora of other videos on the no.45/R405, I figured that was case.
Last night, I did see where a person posted some pics of his no.45 and a home made wooden round for the one he was missing from his set. He also made another home made attachments for it such as a Kerffing Plane. Some ideas for your show or Rex who's show format is more of the DIY on a budget.
I hope someday you get some for a reasonable price in your collection.
Love the show!
Hi James. You seem to be the master of Stanley planes so I thought I'd ask you. I've been lucky enough to get a Stanley number 45 in excellent shape. The only part missing is the slitting blade and the number 10 plow blade is broken. Otherwise it is complete and in great shape with almost no rust.. I'd like to have some idea when it was made. It is nickel plated, not Japanned. It has the micro adjust on the fence. Other than that, I'm not really sure what to look for. The few sources I've found online are very confusing and contradictory. Any help would be appreciated...
For parts, the first place I normally go is a Facebook group called The parts division. Second, I'll go down a list of sellers on handToolfinder.com almost all of them have piles of parts that they can pick from.
As to dating the plane, I don't know of a good source online that has information for that. There are a few people who have done a type study on it but I don't currently have information to get in contact with them.
Thank you.
NAy time Robert!
Great review...enjoyed watching.
+Simply Wooden Creations Thanks! it was a lot of fun to make.
Great video I was looking at one of these the other day. What should you reasonably expect to pay for one of these?
+lanceo235 That depends on its quality and where you are. in Europe the starting price is $100 or more. In the USA for just the 45 with a single blade in Ok condition you can often find them for around $50 if you want a full set of blades the going rate is around $100 for the kit. if yo want an original box with all the blades in good condition it is around $150-$200. Hope that answers your questions. I do have a challenge going on now where you can win one with a full set of irons and an original box. here ua-cam.com/video/WP0L5uLlpuc/v-deo.html
+Wood By Wright thanks that's perfect. I found one at an antique store for 95$ with a box of cutters I didn't have them pull it out of the dark case since I wasn't prepared to spend that kind of money on an unknown. I would love to join the contest but I am getting ready to Deploy so not a lot of shop time for me as of late.
+lanceo235 If it is in a functional condition I Would say that is a fair price. And thanks for your service on your upcoming deployment. that has got to cut down on the shop time.
+Wood By Wright I might have to go and take another look at it. Thank you very much and it definitely does cut down on the shop time I have been trying to come up with a way that I can take some woodworking tools with me maybe even just a carving knife and some bass wood. Hopefully I can think of something.
Very interesting, great explanation
+Royers Custom Wood Working Thanks! do you have one?
+Wood By Wright no I sure don't! Someday I hope! I've really enjoyed you channel! Taking me back!
Well good luck if you try for it in the Hand Tool Build Off
Cool video, cool tool.
Why did you try to hide all the tear out at the end?
It is a fun one for sure. What do you mean
@@WoodByWright it looked like for whatever reason the last tounge you made messed up for some reason, and it looked like you were holding it where you hand covered it.
It could just be how it looks in the video if so not a big deal. You probably didn't even realize it was looking like you were doing that.
I've been working on (slowly) a series about using the #45 for its '7' different functions. One of my favorite tools, which is probably why I've got somewhere around 16-18 of them currently
+Chris “Mosquito” Albee one is never enough. LOL! maybe we should do a colab some time. I am sure there is something fun we can do together?
At some point I hope to have one of each type, or at least the feasible types (I may never in my lifetime end up with an aluminum #45, who knows). I'm sure we could come up with something if we wanted to :)
Are you going to be at the MWTCA in IA?
This is so cool! Love the sounds! :D
+Cactus! workshop Thanks! the sound of feel of wood is one of the pleasures of working with hand tools. a router may do a faster job but this is just so much more fun!
A nice decrative flueting to boxes or anything you want to add a little something too..
Just became the owner of a Stanley 45, waiting for it to show up in the mail.
Wouldn't you use the knickers/spurs also to cut along the grain?
You can but unless you have really wild grain they don't do much at all.
The knickers / spurs wear quite quickly and are unnecessary along the grain so it is best to only use them along the grain.
Erratum. Only use them across the grain. Sorry. A silly typo.
Looking at buying one whats a decent price to pay
I have a 45 and 71 if interested
@@josekma1 how much for the 45
@@dondavis8260 ... I'd like to show you some pictures of the whole set up.
I can send you my number
I am recently moving towards using hand tools as a woodworking hobyist and have been very luckily given a record 405 in the box with 23 blades in imaculate condition by a very good friend. I have, however been looking for guidance on the 405 but find most info is on the more premium stanley 45. should you have any links or advice regarding differences I would appreciate your input. Also Keep up with the videos. I need my fix of top quality streams and youtube uploads here in the UK.
Thanks for putting in the effort and producing very enjoyable material.
PS-: Also got a record Num 4 given and in ok condition so a handy backup to the bench vice for the non Bio work :D
The 405 is basically identical to the 45 in function. There are a few minor differences but nothing that would change function.
Hola dónde compro las cuchillas de mi cepillo 45.
Is IT postbiler to buy the Stanley nr 55 in England ,- not in Norway. Also used. If so where ?
they are very hard to find over there, but they are around. check out handtoolfinder.com to find a place near you.
What's the difference between the Sargent 1080 and the Stanley 45?
there are several different variations of both so not all of the parts can interchange but for the most part, the Sargent 1080 is just a copy of the #45.
Do you have a 1080 you can demonstrate?
I do not, but its function and use is exactly the same as the #45.
Nice work,hopefully I will find one of these someday!
+BCdesign Are you going to try and win the one in the Hand Tool Build Off? my guess is your chances are 1 in 20-30
whens that on?I missed it being announced?
+BCdesign It is on tell july 1st ua-cam.com/video/WP0L5uLlpuc/v-deo.html and for people in europe we can just make your entry a Europe only entry so that you do not have to ship to the US
Got your sticker today. Just put mine in the mail. you will have a shout out in tomorrows video. What link do you want me to put in the description?
I have a question for anyone on this page willing to comment: I have a Stanley 50 which came with a full set of blades including a 1/8 and a 3/16. However, when I try to tighten it to anything less than 1/4", the skates come together before the blade is secured. I can see by the original box for the blades that these smaller blades were stock, so I'm puzzled. I would greatly appreciate any input.
you just take the second skate off for the smaller cutters.
Thank you! I'll see if I can sort that out tomorrow.
Before responding, allow me to express my sincere gratitude for the generosity of you and others for sharing your master skills with us, some of whom, like me, are duffers. I've been an amateur woodworker for decades now but am ashamed to say that the world of hand tools is a weak area for me, and your videos are an essential part of my learning curve.
After looking at the plane, I do not see how I can remove the second skate. The three main components are the plane body, the second skate/blade holder, and the fence. The second skate is all one piece. So to remove the skate is also to remove the part that forms the groove that clamps the blade opposite the main body. I don't see a way to upload photos, but perhaps the 45 and 50 are different in this regard?
I now see I didn't quite understand the advice. What you do is, as you suggest, remove the second skate, along with the shaft and wingnut used to tighten it against the blade. You replace the shaft with an appropriate bolt, nut, and washer, and these can now be used to clamp the small blades (1/8", 3/16") in place. This works just fine.
Congratulations on your great Stanley 50. I got lucky too ! I would like to see our host put a # 50 through its paces. I loved what he did with the 45
It appears that nickers are not only for an initial scoring because every return stroke precedes every forward stroke with another scoring when the tool is withdrawn in contact with the wood as you appear to be doing in this video. This matters if I am seeing things right.
That's why it's in front of the iron. So it's always making the cut just before the iron gets to it on the forward stroke. The return stroke doesn't have the pressure, so even if it's lightly dragged back across the board, it won't actually cut the fibers. But most people will pick up a rabbit plane rather than drag it back across the board.
Hi, new subscriber here. I was wondering if you have had any experience with a no 46? I've seen more than one blog post claiming that although it doesn't have the molding plane versatility, it's a much better plough/fillester than the 45&55. Thanks for all the great hand tool content!
Thanks. Everyone has a different idea about that. I like it for that but I would rather have one plane for all of it then one for dads and another for all other grooving and molding.
@@WoodByWright That makes sense. I've been moving away from power tools and cast iron planes, heading more towards 19th century English wooden planes but the sheer quantity necessary to cut a good variety of moldings is deflating. You've made the combination planes look like a viable alternative! I was purposefully avoiding them before. I've had experience with other types of multifunction tools that are too bulky or just flat out perform badly. Food for thought, thank you.
Incrível esta magestosa plaina.
é um dos meus favoritos
Great video
+Jubinsky Woodworks Thanks! it was fun to make!
Great video as usual but I still can't stand the 45. Well, the Stanley one that is. Colt's is quite nice.
+Darren Young LOL thanks.that sounds like a great woodworking video. lets make a side table with a Colt 45.
+Wood By Wright with Billy Dee Williams?
Notched vs unnotched irons?
the un notched are the early versions. but they soon added the notch for easer adjustment. also the irons made for the #50 were shorter but those did not have a notch.
To check for parallel on groves I use one of the other knives to measure. It is like watching someone eat candy, it makes you want to go out in the shop and make some shaving. Thanks for that, now I need to go dust off Mr.45 ;) Later.
+BearKat Wood That is a great idea! thanks for the tip! it is a seriously fun tool!
If you were doing a fair amount of tongue and groove I suspect it would be a good idea to have two #45's or a #45 and a #55 just so you could leave a plane set up for each type of cut.
Usually most combination claims are generally left to make the groove for a tongue and groove set. But if you're going to be doing a lot of tongue and groove then generally it's better to pick up a swingarm tongue and groove plane. They're far cheaper and are always set up and ready to go.
@@WoodByWright Sure and that gives me an excuse to buy another plane. From what I have seen from the swing arm tongue and groove planes, they only work best (for some definition of "best" with one thickness of wood. Maybe "best" is a matched pair of wood T&G planes?
Try working your plane from the exit end of the board using shorter cuts and working backwards. That should help avoid all that tear out you experienced on the sash molding you were making.
nice! now how to sharpen those beading and moulding blades...
+Everfalling That is on my list of videos to make. and as with anything there are thousands of ways to do it.
+Wood By Wright awesome. looking forward to it!
The glazing is applied on the outside of the window, the molding bead is on the inside.
Nice presentation. I was under the impression that this tool did many jobs albeit somewhat poorly and/or inefficiently. Apparently this is not the case when wielded skillfully……..
It is a pain to set up well and get going but once it does it'll do the job just as well as any other. It's just a lot of fiddling.