Wee tip. The rubber cover over the adjuster has a habit of retaining water and corroding. When you've finished adjusting, just smear a little grease on the threads.
for a first time owner of pre owned hd your videos are perfect not to slow not to fast and very explanatory and informative thank you for your videos,very helpful!
Great vid. Something I think about is a pass-through socket set. Bostitch makes one. You can put a socket on the clutch lock-nut and, with the pass through, let’s you hold the adjuster screw in position through the socket while you torque down the lock-nut. I got a little tired of having the 11/16 open end rounding off the nut when the wrench slips off the nut, banging on the chrome (like it did in this vid), while loosening and tightening. I found this pass-through kit useful when dealing with buried adjusters and locknuts on other applications.
@@EamonnSeoigh no need to hold the adjustment bolt when locking / applying torque to the nut. The adjustment bolt is not going to move. No need for special tools. Just allen key and wrench. Done
You made this to show accurate clutch adjustment and showed it to be so simple. I have seen videos that make this procedure of just the clutch hub screw and cable adjustment to seem like this major complex timely procedure. If a person knows what they are doing they can do this in 20 minutes just like I did in my driveway as I sipped on my cup of coffee back and forth. To make any job easier HAVE THE TOOLS READY YOU NEED, I leared this the hard way decades ago
MUST BE PERFORMED WITH THE BIKE COLD!!! Great reference video but left out one of most important steps. Also, if your clutch is newer, you will want closer to 1 turn out, if your clutch is older, start with a 1/2 turn out and go from there.
What exactly does more turns out do for the clutch engagement point? I have a 2011 Heritage with 17k miles. Proper free play is adjusted at the lever and the clutch has always engaged way too early. Like just a few mm after the lever leaves the handlebar grip. I just went through this adjustment procedure and backed it out a little over 1/2 turn and the clutch is still engaging very early.
@@salvatoregiovanni8967 Engaged = when the clutch plates are together and transferring power to the rear wheel. Disengaged = when the clutch plates are separated and the power from the engine does not transfer to the rear wheel. The closer the actuating rod is to the clutch diaphragm spring (IE 1/4 turn CCW after seated) will result in GREATER clutch plate disengagement and LESS engagement. The further the actuating rod is from the clutch diaphragm spring (IE 1 full turn CCW after seated) will result in LESS clutch plate disengagement and MORE engagement resulting in creeping, hard to get into neutral, etc.
@@salvatoregiovanni8967 try turning the adjuster CLOCKWISE 1/4 turn from where it is now. This should give more play (basically you’re doing less of a CCW turn) I used an Allen wrench and loosen up the adjuster and then spin it clockwise until it stops on its own weight, from there I turned it back 1/2 ccw turn. I just did a LOT of reading on this so I’m happy to help if I can.
Only video ive seen to clarify exactly what the slack means and where to measure it. Thank you! Ive heard of people doing it by holding the cable to get that 1/8-1/16". I have probably been running mine not fully engaged
The by far no doubt in my mind the easiest to the point perfect tutorial on UA-cam. Thank you for taking the time to do this video. Any tips on how to soften the pull of the clutch. Maybe how to lube the cable?
All things being equal and the clutch lever is adjusted properly, I like my clutch to engage almost right away when I release the lever. Would I turn the allen head out more than 1/2 turn or slightly less than 1/2 turn? Take into consideration that I don't want creep when it's cold but at the same time I don't want to make it hard to hit neutral when it cold either.
Added bars to my new RGL. Replaced the clutch cable with the plastic spring adjuster to older style clutch cable with locknut. May be old video but it is still good. Thx
Very helpful video. Just adjusted my clutch on the old Evo. The lock nut/adjuster nut setup on the cable was slightly different, but everything else basically the same. I couldn't break that damn clutch lock nut loose using the method in the video, so I just put a socket on it and had the wife hold the front break while I snapped it loose. Doesn't seem to be any reason to hold the adjuster screw while breaking the nut loose. Did a quick Google search to confirm, and seems many people just use a socket, including some Harley techs.
Thanks man was on way back on road trip and had no audire how to adjust my clutch with your video and my small tool kit at rest stop on I let my bike cool fast fix and was able to get back home that nite ty I'll be looking into more of your videos 😊
See more clutch and motorcycle maintenance at Countersteer : www.jpcycles.com/countersteer?How_to_Adjust_Harley_Davidson_Clutch_Cable_by_JandP_Cycles&GtCk
Just FYI. On an Electra Glide with passenger floorboards you will have to remove the left floorboard before you can even get to the rearmost clutch cover screw.
I sure hope you can help me....I have the dreaded "won't go in neutral when hot" problem. I installed the Barnett extra clutch pack. I did everything in and according to spec. Soaked the clutch plates for 2 days, installed it, adjusted the throw out as per Harley spec and then adjusted the clutch cable. Bike shifts like butter hot or cold.....bike falls into neutral cold but, when its hot there is no finding neutral. The shift lever is locked into first gear and I mean locked....I tried bumping the throttle, and rocking the bike and it works 2 out of 5 times....I have tried ever combination of 1/4-1/2-/3/4 and a full turn out with no success. I've also tried the same turns inward...no success...I've tried different primary fluids....and wasted a bunch of money, didn't work....I have checked all the linkage....I put new bushings in the shifter rod and we as far as drilling the cast housing and installed a zerk fitting so I could pump it with grease....I've replace both shift levers, the one on the transmission shaft and the one that is on the back side of the primary up front...My linkage has no shake, wobble and is a smooth as frigging glass.....I read that the Harley Automatic Primary Chain Tensioner could possibly be tightening the primary chain too much and causing this problem. I've checked the shifter pawl adjustment...and it moves the same distance forward as it does to the rear. It was never adjusted and is still at the setting that Harley set it at in the beginning....So, what in God's name did I miss..???? Im racking my brain here trying to figure this out. When I bought the bike it went into neutral like butter....Now you need a crow bar to get neutral when its hot....HOT ONLY....when its cold it falls into neutral....When I put the Extra Plate clutch pack in I made sure to get the two rings out of the clutch basket, the clutch basket was empty when I put the plates in....They were installed in the correct order....I did everything and more by the book.....Help...if you can....Ray
Well explained nice and simple, the reason I watched it was because with my FXSB the clutch leaver on the handle bars starts in gauging as soon as it is released ; I want to have it clutching a little later, meaning when the handle is half way released, but I guess its just a matter of adjusting the center screw to get the desired feel. thx
sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know a tool to log back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Gideon Gannon I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks A hundred and hundred of dollars from the bottom of my pocketbook wasn't sure clutch was slipping really bad watch your video and off and riding I go preciate it keep the videos coming
Very good video..thanks...i just did my clutch adjustment, but I put the bike in first gear and release the clutch lever...it engages towards the end of me letting the lever out. I'd like it to engage sooner, does that mean I backed out the adjuster screw too far or not enough?
Hello thank you for the video. I did the setting but now i have a big problem when i pull the lever it didn't go so close to the handgrip as before so i force and now it's stuck😲 😭. I don't understand everything seemed to be good. I dismount again the cover loosen the nut and nothing happen... Do you have an idea please? Hope see you soon.
Hi...thanks for your vid. Is there a way of knowing by performance when this clutch rod needs to be adjusted? Because Ive never done it. Just adjusted my cable slack a few times. But my clutch feels and performs perfectly. Should I just leave it alone? Thanks man.
I welded a 5/8 nut onto the ratchet end of a 11/16 socket so that I can use a box end wrench on the lock nut rather than have the open end slip off and wack the primary cover like yours did.
@@srhintz I knew anyone with my name until I moved to the Island then one day on the dock a guy called out Hey Lorne and three of us turned around. I have a couple sets of box ends now but didn't at the time. Store bought tools are for sissies. 😉
I'm new to motorcycles, I have an 03 Road King Anniversary. I tried starting my bike in gear this morning (with the clutch pulled in) and it crept forward a few inches. It did start, But it pulled the bike forward. I'm assuming that the clutch needs to be adjusted, But would that be because it is out of whack? Or just because of normal clutch wear? Also, I sometimes find it hard to get the bike into first gear...I have to (almost) stomp on the shifter to get it to engage.
Question, I put a new clutch lever on my 14 breakout. Now when it's in gear and I have the lever pulled all the way in and try to push the bike ,I can feel the clutch is not fully ingageing. What should I check.
Great Video. We installed J&P forward controls on my buddy's 2016 Dyna and afterward, for some reason he was getting some creep with the clutch in at start up. We watched another video that was 14 minutes long and had too much engagement then. Within 5 minutes, you made it painless, and of great ease to understand. Thank you!
I’m looking to put on some 10” Paul gaffe classics monkey bars. Will adjusting the clutch cable all the way out give enough slack to reach the new bars?
Jw I have a 2006 Harley dyna street bob fxdbi. I recently replaced my inner primary bearing and race amd seals myself .at first was leakin primary oil fixed that issue but the locking jam nut on that locks the clutch basket came loose in think I went inside my primary chain. Because it came back out chewed up long story short. I went riding yesterday night upon returning home I noticed it wasn't accelerating right. This morning when I woke up it wouldnt move woth the clutch lever out all the way. I also noticed the clutch basket I could rotate it forward and back a couple of inches. It also rattles a bit when I do so whats the prob here. New mechanic on harleys. If it was a 18 wheeler i couod tell u anything that could b wrong n how to fix it.
You won't need to remove the Derby cover a second time if you still have clutch creep. Just finish the adjustment at the cable with that 1/8 of an inch of Freeplay at the clutch lever
If you just wanted to adjust the contact point of the clutch handle itself (ie; I'd like my clutch to engage a bit sooner as I"m releasing it), could you make that adjustment at the cable adjust nuts located half way down the cable, under the rubber boot?
If I adjust it as you do and the clutch is still the same ie grunchs into 1 as well a 2nd would it be the clutch plates could this explain why there’s no play in the lever as the last owner was trying to get the most out of it
Thanks again for sharing, any help would be gracious, (trying to adjust my clutch on 2016 Road King inside the primary case) my center nut inside cover of my primary case is deep & can’t get to it to adjust clutch without stripping the center nut and still holding the Allen wrench screw, could I use an impact (battery operated) to try breaking the nut loose and is everything spinning inside the gonna mess everything up? Any help much much appreciated.
I have an 08 Harley Street Bob I was recently told that the compensator need to be replaced when I bought the bike it was doing the same thing but they said it was a computer problem and it would cost $200 just to hook it up . The problem I'm having is when it warms up I'm getting a kick back and backfire through the intake but it only happens when its at normal operating temperature
When I start the bike in 1st gear of course with the clutch handle pulled in the bike will move forward (is that Clutch Creep?)....Should I adjust the cable first before anything else? Thanks
I wonder what that was clutch creep I have just a little bit especially in first gear I started up for the collect so I basically just make sure took care of that?
okay so i have a 1200 custom. i put 2 quartz of oil through the transmission hole and i rode it for a few miles and realized the shifter was too stiff so i called thw harley shop and Told them the problem. they said the problem was that the bike had too much transmission oil so i fix it and put 1 quart. the shifter is much smooth but is there any potential problems that can occur because of that?? this happened at 1500 miles and now im at 2000 miles.
I have a 2004 Suzuki marauder 1600cc the issue im having with mine is i have to have to clutch almost all the way out just to get the bike to start rolling i want to adjust it where i can release the clutch about half way in first gear and it starts to catch on the friction zone.
Wee tip. The rubber cover over the adjuster has a habit of retaining water and corroding. When you've finished adjusting, just smear a little grease on the threads.
for a first time owner of pre owned hd your videos are perfect not to slow not to fast and very explanatory and informative thank you for your videos,very helpful!
Great vid. Something I think about is a pass-through socket set. Bostitch makes one. You can put a socket on the clutch lock-nut and, with the pass through, let’s you hold the adjuster screw in position through the socket while you torque down the lock-nut. I got a little tired of having the 11/16 open end rounding off the nut when the wrench slips off the nut, banging on the chrome (like it did in this vid), while loosening and tightening. I found this pass-through kit useful when dealing with buried adjusters and locknuts on other applications.
No need since it will not rotate
@@michaelslawinski6449both the adjuster and the lock nut rotate. What are you referring to?
@@EamonnSeoigh no need to hold the adjustment bolt when locking / applying torque to the nut. The adjustment bolt is not going to move. No need for special tools. Just allen key and wrench. Done
You made this to show accurate clutch adjustment and showed it to be so simple. I have seen videos that make this procedure of just the clutch hub screw and cable adjustment to seem like this major complex timely procedure. If a person knows what they are doing they can do this in 20 minutes just like I did in my driveway as I sipped on my cup of coffee back and forth. To make any job easier HAVE THE TOOLS READY YOU NEED, I leared this the hard way decades ago
I watched several in the row, this is the best one of them.
Great video ,some don't get close enough, some are not good at explaining the process, but you did a great job, thank you
Great,you speak gently not loud makes it pleasant thank you!
MUST BE PERFORMED WITH THE BIKE COLD!!! Great reference video but left out one of most important steps. Also, if your clutch is newer, you will want closer to 1 turn out, if your clutch is older, start with a 1/2 turn out and go from there.
What exactly does more turns out do for the clutch engagement point? I have a 2011 Heritage with 17k miles. Proper free play is adjusted at the lever and the clutch has always engaged way too early. Like just a few mm after the lever leaves the handlebar grip. I just went through this adjustment procedure and backed it out a little over 1/2 turn and the clutch is still engaging very early.
@@salvatoregiovanni8967 Engaged = when the clutch plates are together and transferring power to the rear wheel.
Disengaged = when the clutch plates are separated and the power from the engine does not transfer to the rear wheel.
The closer the actuating rod is to the clutch diaphragm spring (IE 1/4 turn CCW after seated) will result in GREATER clutch plate disengagement and LESS engagement.
The further the actuating rod is from the clutch diaphragm spring (IE 1 full turn CCW after seated) will result in LESS clutch plate disengagement and MORE engagement resulting in creeping, hard to get into neutral, etc.
@@salvatoregiovanni8967 try turning the adjuster CLOCKWISE 1/4 turn from where it is now. This should give more play (basically you’re doing less of a CCW turn) I used an Allen wrench and loosen up the adjuster and then spin it clockwise until it stops on its own weight, from there I turned it back 1/2 ccw turn. I just did a LOT of reading on this so I’m happy to help if I can.
Thanks for the tips and thorough explanation. I will give that a shot!
Only video ive seen to clarify exactly what the slack means and where to measure it. Thank you! Ive heard of people doing it by holding the cable to get that 1/8-1/16". I have probably been running mine not fully engaged
Thanks! This video saved me. I was stuck on the side of the road.
best video I've seen on adjusting the clutch.
After watching this video, i did it by my self and it took max 15 min to fix. Thank you so much 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Outstanding video as usual by this channel. Incredibly informative, simple to understand, and no annoying background music👍👍👍👍
Thank you for taking the time to make this. Helped me out a lot doing it for the first time
The by far no doubt in my mind the easiest to the point perfect tutorial on UA-cam. Thank you for taking the time to do this video. Any tips on how to soften the pull of the clutch. Maybe how to lube the cable?
All things being equal and the clutch lever is adjusted properly, I like my clutch to engage almost right away when I release the lever. Would I turn the allen head out more than 1/2 turn or slightly less than 1/2 turn? Take into consideration that I don't want creep when it's cold but at the same time I don't want to make it hard to hit neutral when it cold either.
Thank you for making a video that gets right to the point instead of first giving the history about clutches.
Watched video once through. Now my clutch works great. Tnks
Added bars to my new RGL. Replaced the clutch cable with the plastic spring adjuster to older style clutch cable with locknut. May be old video but it is still good. Thx
Very helpful and easy to understand. Thanks! Worked perfectly to get clutch feeling good again.
I love how simple these bikes are to work on...
Harley Davidson Rider that’s the benefit of our very “outdated” bikes
@@williammorgan5987 don't change what isn't broke
Even if one is not mechanically inclined this video makes it easy to do . Thanks
Very well done. I like the way you made it simple, easy and you had a good view of everything you did
Thanks ,JON Parham ,legend thanks fer keepin riding fer 40 years. RIP my friend.
Very helpful video. Just adjusted my clutch on the old Evo. The lock nut/adjuster nut setup on the cable was slightly different, but everything else basically the same. I couldn't break that damn clutch lock nut loose using the method in the video, so I just put a socket on it and had the wife hold the front break while I snapped it loose. Doesn't seem to be any reason to hold the adjuster screw while breaking the nut loose. Did a quick Google search to confirm, and seems many people just use a socket, including some Harley techs.
Yep mine started rounding using the wrench. Threw a socket on and presto
I know this comment is 8 years old but you just prevented me from rounding off the nut on my inherited bike. Appreciate you brother
Very clear instructions and very helpful. Thank you!
Professionally, well made videos, every time. I love your channel. Keep on the good work.
Watching videos .. I learned .. and I’ve saved over 600 bucks or more doing my own work
Awesome… the 9/16 primary bolt just stripped while trying to do this 🤦🏼♂️
I give up
Thanks man was on way back on road trip and had no audire how to adjust my clutch with your video and my small tool kit at rest stop on I let my bike cool fast fix and was able to get back home that nite ty I'll be looking into more of your videos 😊
So if you get where the bike creeps do you need to go more to a full turn or closer to a half turn???
I have a OEM service Manuel. But your awesome info is way better and easier.!!! Thanks so much !
See more clutch and motorcycle maintenance at Countersteer : www.jpcycles.com/countersteer?How_to_Adjust_Harley_Davidson_Clutch_Cable_by_JandP_Cycles&GtCk
Awesome video! Anyone can adjust a clutch after watching this👍🏻
Thank you brother
I’m goin to adjust mine today. Mine tries to take off when the clutch is pulled. Thanks for the video
This dude just busted out the Newton meters. Where'd he go to motorcycle school? MIT? lol. Thanks for the vid. I'm doing this tomorrow
:D
such a simple and awesome explain. Love you. Thanks bro
1/2 to full turn, which gets the clutch engaging closer to the bars ??
Thank you for getting back to me. Vince
Just FYI. On an Electra Glide with passenger floorboards you will have to remove the left floorboard before you can even get to the rearmost clutch cover screw.
I've found your videos and products to be helpful and exactly what i need. now off to adjust the clutch!
Well done and much appreciated. Was feeling like my clutch might need adjusting, but now I know it's within expected play and all is well.
I sure hope you can help me....I have the dreaded "won't go in neutral when hot" problem. I installed the Barnett extra clutch pack.
I did everything in and according to spec. Soaked the clutch plates for 2 days, installed it, adjusted the throw out as per Harley spec and then adjusted the clutch cable. Bike shifts like butter hot or cold.....bike falls into neutral cold but, when its hot there is no finding neutral. The shift lever is locked into first gear and I mean locked....I tried bumping the throttle, and rocking the bike and it works 2 out of 5 times....I have tried ever combination of 1/4-1/2-/3/4 and a full turn out with no success. I've also tried the same turns inward...no success...I've tried different primary fluids....and wasted a bunch of money, didn't work....I have checked all the linkage....I put new bushings in the shifter rod and we as far as drilling the cast housing and installed a zerk fitting so I could pump it with grease....I've replace both shift levers, the one on the transmission shaft and the one that is on the back side of the primary up front...My linkage has no shake, wobble and is a smooth as frigging glass.....I read that the Harley Automatic Primary Chain Tensioner could possibly be tightening the primary chain too much and causing this problem. I've checked the shifter pawl adjustment...and it moves the same distance forward as it does to the rear. It was never adjusted and is still at the setting that Harley set it at in the beginning....So, what in God's name did I miss..???? Im racking my brain here trying to figure this out. When I bought the bike it went into neutral like butter....Now you need a crow bar to get neutral when its hot....HOT ONLY....when its cold it falls into neutral....When I put the Extra Plate clutch pack in I made sure to get the two rings out of the clutch basket, the clutch basket was empty when I put the plates in....They were installed in the correct order....I did everything and more by the book.....Help...if you can....Ray
Well explained nice and simple, the reason I watched it was because with my FXSB the clutch leaver on the handle bars starts in gauging as soon as it is released ; I want to have it clutching a little later, meaning when the handle is half way released, but I guess its just a matter of adjusting the center screw to get the desired feel. thx
sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know a tool to log back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Bodhi Briar instablaster =)
@Gideon Gannon I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Gideon Gannon it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass !
@Bodhi Briar No problem =)
Thanks A hundred and hundred of dollars from the bottom of my pocketbook wasn't sure clutch was slipping really bad watch your video and off and riding I go preciate it keep the videos coming
JP cycles got the best how to vids
So my bike is wanting to jump when I start it in first gear even with the clutch pulled in. Which way do I need to go with adjustment screw?
Very good video..thanks...i just did my clutch adjustment, but I put the bike in first gear and release the clutch lever...it engages towards the end of me letting the lever out. I'd like it to engage sooner, does that mean I backed out the adjuster screw too far or not enough?
My harley is the same way did you ever get an answer on the fix?
Yeah I tried this and was so tight that the actual Allan bolt broke. Like a chunk where your alan wrench goes in...
Fixed in 20mins thanks to this vid andI didn't have give a thief $200.
One good explanation of clutch adjustments. Thanks Brother.
If there is clutch creep which part should I adjust? The cable nuts or open the derby cover again and adjust that as well?
Couldn’t I just take the slack out of the cable without adjusting the clutch itself? Please explain. Thank you so much!!!
Hello thank you for the video.
I did the setting but now i have a big problem when i pull the lever it didn't go so close to the handgrip as before so i force and now it's stuck😲 😭. I don't understand everything seemed to be good.
I dismount again the cover loosen the nut and nothing happen...
Do you have an idea please?
Hope see you soon.
thank you! J&P Cycles you have a customer for life. you really set the standard for an awesome company
Perfect 10:10 from the South Coast of England - thank you very much! Keith
i just did this today and wow what a difference
Hi...thanks for your vid. Is there a way of knowing by performance when this clutch rod needs to be adjusted? Because Ive never done it. Just adjusted my cable slack a few times. But my clutch feels and performs perfectly. Should I just leave it alone? Thanks man.
Thanks for the informative video. How do you know when it's time to make the clutch adjustment?
thanks guys for the help , i had some play with my clutch lever thirty minutes later all done..
I welded a 5/8 nut onto the ratchet end of a 11/16 socket so that I can use a box end wrench on the lock nut rather than have the open end slip off and wack the primary cover like yours did.
Use an offset wrench grasshopper
@@srhintz or make something that works with what I have on hand groggy.
@@LoBeau53 I just noticed your name. I named my son Lorne. Don't see that too often. You still need a set of offset wrenches. Ha!
@@srhintz I knew anyone with my name until I moved to the Island then one day on the dock a guy called out Hey Lorne and three of us turned around. I have a couple sets of box ends now but didn't at the time. Store bought tools are for sissies. 😉
Dig the videos...much help my bike guy retired...and wont take it to the Dealer...😎
I'm new to motorcycles, I have an 03 Road King Anniversary. I tried starting my bike in gear this morning (with the clutch pulled in) and it crept forward a few inches. It did start, But it pulled the bike forward. I'm assuming that the clutch needs to be adjusted, But would that be because it is out of whack? Or just because of normal clutch wear? Also, I sometimes find it hard to get the bike into first gear...I have to (almost) stomp on the shifter to get it to engage.
best how-to help video, thanx j&p!!!
Need a crowfoot to use a torque wrench on that jam nut.
I go slightly more then 1/2 turn as well.
Question, I put a new clutch lever on my 14 breakout. Now when it's in gear and I have the lever pulled all the way in and try to push the bike ,I can feel the clutch is not fully ingageing. What should I check.
Helpful and straight forward thanks.
Had to pull clutch pack to do my stator. Just the info i needed, thanks!
This worked perfect. Easy job and well said. Thank you!
Great Video. We installed J&P forward controls on my buddy's 2016 Dyna and afterward, for some reason he was getting some creep with the clutch in at start up.
We watched another video that was 14 minutes long and had too much engagement then.
Within 5 minutes, you made it painless, and of great ease to understand. Thank you!
First time Sportster owner ((1992 883)I want to do this to mine because the friction zone is all the way out at the end of the clutch handle action.
I’m looking to put on some 10” Paul gaffe classics monkey bars. Will adjusting the clutch cable all the way out give enough slack to reach the new bars?
I followed the steps in video and my clutch is a lot better. However, when getting into the throttle, it's slipping now. Mostly in higher gears.
Hi when u give it throttle does your rpm goes from 3000 to 4000 and back down I have same problem but wonder if I have to adjust clutch
Jw I have a 2006 Harley dyna street bob fxdbi. I recently replaced my inner primary bearing and race amd seals myself .at first was leakin primary oil fixed that issue but the locking jam nut on that locks the clutch basket came loose in think I went inside my primary chain. Because it came back out chewed up long story short. I went riding yesterday night upon returning home I noticed it wasn't accelerating right. This morning when I woke up it wouldnt move woth the clutch lever out all the way. I also noticed the clutch basket I could rotate it forward and back a couple of inches. It also rattles a bit when I do so whats the prob here. New mechanic on harleys. If it was a 18 wheeler i couod tell u anything that could b wrong n how to fix it.
You won't need to remove the Derby cover a second time if you still have clutch creep. Just finish the adjustment at the cable with that 1/8 of an inch of Freeplay at the clutch lever
If you just wanted to adjust the contact point of the clutch handle itself (ie; I'd like my clutch to engage a bit sooner as I"m releasing it), could you make that adjustment at the cable adjust nuts located half way down the cable, under the rubber boot?
If I adjust it as you do and the clutch is still the same ie grunchs
into 1 as well a 2nd would it be the clutch plates could this explain why there’s no play in the lever as the last owner was trying to get the most out of it
Do you mean tighten the allen bolt till it slighty toches...or turn till the nut slighty touches?
Good simple explanation , good job
.
Best video on this topic. 🤘
Exactly what I was looking for, explained simply.
Thanks again for sharing, any help would be gracious, (trying to adjust my clutch on 2016 Road King inside the primary case) my center nut inside cover of my primary case is deep & can’t get to it to adjust clutch without stripping the center nut and still holding the Allen wrench screw, could I use an impact (battery operated) to try breaking the nut loose and is everything spinning inside the gonna mess everything up? Any help much much appreciated.
But will this help if the clutch isn’t wanting to go into second gear without having to click it a couple times? Need help figuring this out.
If you've got a hydraulic clutch how do you release the clutch pressure on the clutches if you want to change the clutch plates
Quick and simple instructions thanks.
I have an 08 Harley Street Bob I was recently told that the compensator need to be replaced when I bought the bike it was doing the same thing but they said it was a computer problem and it would cost $200 just to hook it up . The problem I'm having is when it warms up I'm getting a kick back and backfire through the intake but it only happens when its at normal operating temperature
sorry about the double post
Great video. I torqued mine using a crows foot wrench.. Anybody have any other methods? Thanks!
Great video it is the best for reference thanks
When I start the bike in 1st gear of course with the clutch handle pulled in the bike will move forward (is that Clutch Creep?)....Should I adjust the cable first before anything else? Thanks
Yes, that is clutch creep. Try the cable, if that doesn't work do the full adjustment
thx... will do.
Before adjusting should the bike be in neutral or in a certain gear?
Awesome, as always thanks for the info and great vids! Just did new bars and need to do this also.
I wonder what that was clutch creep I have just a little bit especially in first gear I started up for the collect so I basically just make sure took care of that?
What if you have a hydraulic clutch and I wanna adjust the clutch screw.
Patrick, nice video. Any difference in using the O style or full circle with center type derby cover gaskets in your view?
okay so i have a 1200 custom. i put 2 quartz of oil through the transmission hole and i rode it for a few miles and realized the shifter was too stiff so i called thw harley shop and Told them the problem. they said the problem was that the bike had too much transmission oil so i fix it and put 1 quart. the shifter is much smooth but is there any potential problems that can occur because of that?? this happened at 1500 miles and now im at 2000 miles.
Will my clutch cable always run straight down the left side?
I cant find the sweet spot should the bike be uo right or what am i doing wrong
When i shift, i hear the gears clang. Could that be an our of adjustment clutch cable
I have a 2004 Suzuki marauder 1600cc the issue im having with mine is i have to have to clutch almost all the way out just to get the bike to start rolling i want to adjust it where i can release the clutch about half way in first gear and it starts to catch on the friction zone.