Fill sump with clear kerosene. Use a fresh filter. Run motor for no more than 5 minutes. Immediately drain the sump. The entire motor is now flushed. Now, IMMEDIATELY add a fresh filter and the correct spec crank fluid, run the motor 20 minutes, drain and fill again. Why? The kerosene strips chemicals from gaskets and seals and will continue to do so until diluted. There’s a slower way, also! Run an oil with a slightly lower cold flow rate than the motor specs and add a half-a-quart extra. (Example, running 0W20 instead of 5W20.) Then change the oil after 1500 miles, on the nose. Doing this a few times will do the same thing, albeit it nowhere near as thoroughly or as quickly but that can be a life saver with really fouled up motors! Slow and steady, steady and slow.
Como amigo es sacar el aceite viejo y reemplazarlo completamente con puro keroseno? Hacer funcionar el motor por 3:30, 4:20 minutos hacer un doble cambio de aceite para eliminar el keroseno???? 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
On an 200m+ engine, why using a low density oil instead of 5W40? My Skoda Fabia mk1 uses 5w30 (factory new) but after 260.000km I use 5W40 and it runs better without noises
I flush my coyote with a weed pump sprayer from home depot. I hook a 3/8 fuel line to the sprayer head and use a 1/4 NPT air compressor fitting to thread into the Oil Pressure Sending unit threads on the block. For my car, that is next to the oil filter. I pre fill an oil filter then install, then i just pump 2 quarts of cheap , thin oil through it. Then i pull the oil filter, dump it out or use a new one, and put a quart of the appropriate oil(for my supercharged coyote i use 5w50) and just re prime the engine with that. It works great! Make sure you clean the hell out of the pump sprayer and run some oil through it into a container before pumping into the engine to make sure there's no lose plastic pieces. This method is great for just priming the engine or flushing out all the oiling channels and the lash adjusters/cam bearings/ etc etc.
I was thinking the same thing, the directions on the bottle said 10-15 minutes at idle. I did not want to try something else and risk damaging components.
Use BG EPR Flush, it works better then anything I have used. My engine was as bad as yours and it completely removed all the varnish which is what is still on your engine after you did the flush
@@DostiesGarage I alternate between AmsOil and Liqui-Moly for over 10 years . As they are said to be detergent based , not solvent . So no damage to seals and gaskets . Though for a few times I used BG Products EPR to see any difference . Oil still came out golden colored . I let my oil drain for a full hour ! And remove the oil filter first to release vacuum . Then steady stream of oil and doesn't splatter .
@@DostiesGarageYes , had used AmsOil 0w20 , but now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 and Amsoil filter . Though manual says to use 0w16 , it seemed engine was too noisey . Much quieter with 0w20 oil . And at every oil change I put 10 ounces of MotorKote , a anti-friction additive . Though I have other kinds I will use .
Your not a serious technician. 1.50 This engine is not dirty for 200dkm, you can not see the valves, you see the cams and they are varnished on the non loaded parts, nothing is burned.
never run an engine with modified oil. the ONLY thing you could do that is worth doing is doing more oil changes. anything else is pointless and harmful
I agree oil changes are the best, but liqui moly is a great company. I usually don’t do additives, but if it’s something I will draining out afterwards than I can justify it.
@@DostiesGarage a product made for vehicles with much bigger tolerances and that required oil changes every 3K miles. it was for a time that junk was junk compared to what we have now. that trash you used is just trash that does nothing. seafoam kinda works but like your video, it has its use to clean an otherwise trashed neglected engine only to save it for a little more life.
Real simple: they don't work. Slow and steady wins the race.....2 or 3 short mileage oil changes using a high quality brand of oil and filter over a short period of time would do what you wish to accomplish. "Fast fix" stuff like this will definitely dislodge some carbon/sludge that possibly will clog a passage, the pump screen, or put the filter into bypass. The comment to fill your sump with Kerosene.......OMG! That has no lubricating properties whatsoever. Running that would give you the equivalent of an extra 40 to 60 thousand miles of wear on your engine.
Taking the engine apart and letting the viewer see the inside of the engine was helpful. Thank you
You’re welcome!
Fill sump with clear kerosene.
Use a fresh filter.
Run motor for no more than 5 minutes.
Immediately drain the sump.
The entire motor is now flushed.
Now, IMMEDIATELY add a fresh filter and the correct spec crank fluid, run the motor 20 minutes, drain and fill again. Why? The kerosene strips chemicals from gaskets and seals and will continue to do so until diluted.
There’s a slower way, also! Run an oil with a slightly lower cold flow rate than the motor specs and add a half-a-quart extra. (Example, running 0W20 instead of 5W20.) Then change the oil after 1500 miles, on the nose. Doing this a few times will do the same thing, albeit it nowhere near as thoroughly or as quickly but that can be a life saver with really fouled up motors! Slow and steady, steady and slow.
Como amigo es sacar el aceite viejo y reemplazarlo completamente con puro keroseno? Hacer funcionar el motor por 3:30, 4:20 minutos hacer un doble cambio de aceite para eliminar el keroseno???? 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Good job dude. I'm your newest subscriber. You didn't talk too much and drag it out, just about right.
Thank you, means a lot. More videos coming soon!
Bruh YES with the Hart tools! Rarely see youtubers with them but they really KICK ASS!
Haha thank you! Believe it or not I got the battery and the 3/8 cordless for 70 bucks! Straight steal it was on sale
Always nice to see a before and after
Well done.
Thank you! I wanted to keep it simple and realistic
While looking at the camshafts: "Pretty dirty, valves look burnt." Nah bro, you haven't even looked at the valves.
Meant to say lobes*
Thank you for watching
@@DostiesGarage I'm just being nit picky. Sorry to be a jerk. Great channel, I enjoyed the video.
So after the flush, you'll really feel it when the V-Tec kicks in, yo!
It actually does feel more responsive now, although it’s got fresh oil too. Thanks for watching!
Straight to the point 👍
Thank you! That’s what I’m going for
Better to change the oil and filter, chuck it in and drive it for 20-30 miles, it will do more, then change the oil and filter again
On an 200m+ engine, why using a low density oil instead of 5W40? My Skoda Fabia mk1 uses 5w30 (factory new) but after 260.000km I use 5W40 and it runs better without noises
@@spikeyG I prefer to have stick with what the engine is used to running.. I usually get the best results that way
I flush my coyote with a weed pump sprayer from home depot. I hook a 3/8 fuel line to the sprayer head and use a 1/4 NPT air compressor fitting to thread into the Oil Pressure Sending unit threads on the block. For my car, that is next to the oil filter. I pre fill an oil filter then install, then i just pump 2 quarts of cheap , thin oil through it. Then i pull the oil filter, dump it out or use a new one, and put a quart of the appropriate oil(for my supercharged coyote i use 5w50) and just re prime the engine with that. It works great! Make sure you clean the hell out of the pump sprayer and run some oil through it into a container before pumping into the engine to make sure there's no lose plastic pieces.
This method is great for just priming the engine or flushing out all the oiling channels and the lash adjusters/cam bearings/ etc etc.
Great method! Thank you
i dont think 15mins is long enough and what rpm's just idle or
I was thinking the same thing, the directions on the bottle said 10-15 minutes at idle. I did not want to try something else and risk damaging components.
Great 👍 job thanks
You are welcome!
nice arms
Hopefully you adjusted the valves while you were in there
Yes I did, was a lot easier on this than my j series
That motor is clean for the amount of mileage it has done.
It definitely is, runs great
Use BG EPR Flush, it works better then anything I have used. My engine was as bad as yours and it completely removed all the varnish which is what is still on your engine after you did the flush
Made a night and difference in my wife sienna van. Night and day.
@@JasonRoman-uq7nc nice!
How many miles on that Sienna?
1:48 where do you see valves in this shot?
Meant to say the lobes appeared burnt, although they aren’t burnt as others have pointed out they are just varnished.
Для 15 минут нормальный результат. Можно было и больше погонять.
Definitely could of used it for more time, just didn’t wanna risk damaging anything
Maybe change that oil at 5k and not 10-15k and you won’t have that issue
I usually go with 5k mile oil change intervals
Come on Robot Voice
Use it every oil change .
I think seafoam is best for basic cleaning, you use it like 500 miles before an oil change
@@DostiesGarage I alternate between AmsOil and Liqui-Moly for over 10 years . As they are said to be detergent based , not solvent . So no damage to seals and gaskets . Though for a few times I used BG Products EPR to see any difference . Oil still came out golden colored . I let my oil drain for a full hour ! And remove the oil filter first to release vacuum . Then steady stream of oil and doesn't splatter .
@@peterrudy9207 sounds like you take good care of your engine 👍🏼
@@DostiesGarageYes , had used AmsOil 0w20 , but now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 and Amsoil filter . Though manual says to use 0w16 , it seemed engine was too noisey . Much quieter with 0w20 oil . And at every oil change I put 10 ounces of MotorKote , a anti-friction additive . Though I have other kinds I will use .
@@peterrudy9207 I use the same oil, I love pennzoil my cars always ran good on them
2:00 I've seen cars with under 50k look worse than this does at 200k
It looks like the previous owner maintained it pretty well
Your not a serious technician. 1.50 This engine is not dirty for 200dkm, you can not see the valves, you see the cams and they are varnished on the non loaded parts, nothing is burned.
*you’re
Did he claim to be a serious technician? Lol must of missed that part. Seems like a simple video made for fun
You are right, I am still learning. Thank you for watching
Use Liqui Moly Proline engine flush instead of using this. Definately you'll see the difference
I actually did not know about that one, should I do it on this engine for another video?
Just checked, the one in the video is the Pro line
never run an engine with modified oil. the ONLY thing you could do that is worth doing is doing more oil changes. anything else is pointless and harmful
I agree oil changes are the best, but liqui moly is a great company. I usually don’t do additives, but if it’s something I will draining out afterwards than I can justify it.
@@DostiesGarage a product made for vehicles with much bigger tolerances and that required oil changes every 3K miles. it was for a time that junk was junk compared to what we have now. that trash you used is just trash that does nothing. seafoam kinda works but like your video, it has its use to clean an otherwise trashed neglected engine only to save it for a little more life.
@@timothywhieldon1971 your comment does not make much sense, but thank you for watching
Engine flushes do not work. The lack of proper maintenance will not be fixed by magic in a can. The damage is already done.
Thank you for watching and commenting
How can removing sludge be a bad thing?
@@Step-n-Wolf in some cases the sludge can clog oil passageways. If this happens you can have engine issues.
Wow!!! Lots of terrible advice given out by some of these keyboard mechanics…../smh
What are your thoughts on engine flushes?
Real simple: they don't work.
Slow and steady wins the race.....2 or 3 short mileage oil changes using a high quality brand of oil and filter over a short period of time would do what you wish to accomplish. "Fast fix" stuff like this will definitely dislodge some carbon/sludge that possibly will clog a passage, the pump screen, or put the filter into bypass.
The comment to fill your sump with Kerosene.......OMG! That has no lubricating properties whatsoever. Running that would give you the equivalent of an extra 40 to 60 thousand miles of wear on your engine.
You are very inexperienced on engines...must be your first look under the valve cover
@@glennthoday9740 thank you very much for watching! And also for your positive comment. It really helps my video a lot!