How to diagnose / replace bad CV Joint on front propeller drive shaft - Jeep 4x4 Quadra Drive 2
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- I am no mechanic, but like to do alot of work myself if possible.
Parts used - Dorman CV rebuild kit part number 932-303
Special tools used - Lisle 30800 cv boot clamp pliers
Other basic home mechanic tools used as well. 16mm, 15mm, 8mm deep and shallow sockets, extensions and swivels.
finally something been pain diagnosing mine 6 year old video helps me out now thank you for this
Thank you for the video. I thought it was the transfer case. Note: Beware of cheap parts. 1st kit I bought off of Amazon (mistake) failed after less than 5miles. Now replacing entire front driveshaft as a better alternative.
That’s the sound. Jesus I’ve been trying to figure this out for forever. THANK YOU SIR!!!
Don't use that name in that manner . Your foolish .
We should compose a video with all the problematic sounds all on one video for quick troubleshooting. 😄 I was racking my brain for a little while too.
Got the same diagnostic (cv axle) until I lift up the truck and saw the same problem in the 4*4 shaft, then I found your video, that was a great confirmation of my suspects, thanks for the video!
I just completed my task at hand for the same situation. Problem solved. Thanks for the vid. You helped me out.
Awesome!
How about the other end? Can it be rebuild?
I have this exact same noise issue on mine! This is the only video showing this fix.
I hope it works for me!
Just the best video I needed. Thank you bro you made my day. I got the same problem now I know what to do thanks to you 👍😁
Thanks for showing how the caps go back on
Curious if only at low speed you heard this noise? Mine starts at 40mph and sounds like a roar. When I let off the gas it goes away. Back on gas it comes back.
Great video man. I have the same noise with my 2004 JGC. I replaced the front axles and wheel bearings and that did not fix it. Hopefully this is the problem that I have as well. It is driving me crazy.
Did this sound only happen when you press the gas and accelerate and if you let off the gas it stops?
Thank You!
dude....that is exactly what mine is doing.....been reading forums everything....saying cv axle wheel bearing mine are new. transfer case or this was my guess...it will only click under load or the wieght of the jeep. Believe me I did this too. However mine is not lose or any slack. The rear boot was gone and no grease in the bearings other than black dirt residue...it has a green label on it I think it means something lol...maybe limited slip...5.7 hemi somthing...maybe quadra drive 2 system...
Very good video. Thanks for the info, bud. Solved a bunch of issues for me.
Cześć wywaliło mi smar z łożyska po rzegubu koło reduktora dokladnie to co wymieniłeś.jestem 2000 tyś kilometrowod domu dojade ?
Glad you finally got transfer case correct. No need to call it center. Only one on the vehicle
That vehicle is AWD with two separate drive shafts. That is the middle. Then there is another going from that transfer case to the rear wheels.
Hello
Can I kindly ask you, if the front driveshaft must be ALIGNED AND BALANCED?
Has not been MARKED(on either side) by before taking it of.Probably it made the difference..
My front cv joint lasted only 30miles, vibration upon 60mp hour and failed(melted component)
Thank you for your time and effort for responding
Did it seem like it was rotating with in the cv joint while accelerating? Is that what was making that clicking sound?
Solid wheel/tire choices man they look great. Appreciate the helpful vid for troubleshooting mine.
Thank you for making this video I have this issue and I was scared shattless ot was a front diff because I had just finished offroading it I have a wk
i got an issue like that but mine is when i start running from 0 mph, and between 6 and 10 mph, in the front wheel i feel and hear some clunking noise like cla cla cla cla... quick and repeatedly. But it only happens at low speed(example in traffic). Somebody told me maybe those are front diff bushing are wasted. what do you think?
@@rooseveltrivas2012 i have the same issue did u get it resolved?
@@gillermorivera4891 hermano si te digo como fue que resolvi no me vas a creer? En mi caso tenia las dos gomas delanteras dañadas. El mecanico me habia dicho que en un 90% de probabilidad podian ser las gomas ya que habia un desnivel considerable entre las gomas traseras y delante mas el desgaste de las misma(version que no creia). En fin, cambie las 4 gomas por unas nuevas(ya que si o si tenia que cambiarlas y no perdia nada en intentarlo) y problema resuelto.
Gracias a Dios, pense que tenia problema en el cardan o en la misma transferencia!
@@rooseveltrivas2012 a que gomas se refiere disculpa? Tengo una dodge nitro y se escucha feo en la parte de enfrente pero cuando estoy en terreno enlodado, pensé que era cuando ponía la 4wd pero es igual cuando esta desactivado
@@Sw33tyizuz26 bueno en tu caso puede ser otra cosa. En el mio era porque las gomas estaban disparejas y muy gastadas. Al parecer el sensor de deslizamiento se activaba y por eso daba esos golpes (como entrando y el saliendo repetidas veces la transferencia delantera) 🤷♂️
Can the axle be left out and driven without it until I repair it?
Did you have to drop the cross member any? I have the 07 commander same issue and cannot get the shaft out from under the vehicle. Hits the exhaust and the crossmember as well as tank guard
I know this video is a couple years old (thanks for making it btw), just wanted to add a couple of things I learned doing this on the same style of double rzeppa front driveshaft (08 JGC 4.7) hope it helps some people!
1) green tag indicates it's the 23 1/4" shaft (weld to weld measure).
2) While on 4 jack stands have a qualified (able to drive safely) helper put light pressure on the brakes while in 4low and drive. It will cause the binding which helps pinpoint the noises. Mine was the front cv rzeppa joint, which has no rebuild available as far as I know.
3) this is not one of those cases where an Amazon part will suffice, nor a rebuilt part. I'm learning this the hard way by having to redo the job after 6 months/4k miles.
4) Mopar replacement is about $600, Tom Woods/Carolina Driveline/Custom built is about the same or less in most cases and include Cardan joints (sometimes you can get spicers too) that are replaceable. I'm going that route as per multiple jeep forum reports.
Good luck everyone, not a bad job, but annoying, especially the second time around. Buy once cry once definitely applies here... 🤣
So in other words get the expensive one 😂
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F131226408979
@@reddotsoulja5849 seems about like my luck... 😆
@@kevinbeaupre8925Thanks, but that part does not fit the 2008 grand cherokee (or any GC past 04) according to the listing. I've been using the Tom Woods for $479 shipped for a month and it's awesome. All Spicer user replaceable u joints, and no trans crossmember removal for install. But good luck if you need to do this fix, and decide to go that route.
Pro2A ahh np i did that route on my 04 and its been solid since but i only have a cv on one side a a ujoint on the other i just got a 99 grand Cherokee limited for free that need those done might go the route u took tho
Did this issue cut power to the front and create 4wd failure? So only rwd?
I have the exact same sound when I turn. Is it the cv axle or can it be the ball joint ?? I’m
Confused
Great video! Mine doing the same thing hopefully it fixes it. Hummer h3
It seems like you skipped over the parts that weren’t obvious. How do you get the shaft out? How did you get the new joint on there with the funny clamp?
I reallt thought I blew my front diff thank you
I did blow my front diff
CV on my propshaft was gone too. Gone in for a conversion to a U-joint as the parts for my 20 year old 4x4 are expensive and hard to come by.
What did it take to get drive shaft off ? Good tip about putting the T~Case into 'N'. Thanx.
I hope that removing the bolts all-out both ends of this shaft will allow the shaft to drop straight down and out. No dropping any port and starboard [right and left] floorpan supports holding the transmission or transfer box ... RIGHT?
Other than that fairly easy job. How was the splined shaft at the end where the CV was worn out? Any damage in this area? Great video. Thank you.
I also had to remove one side and loosen the other side of the trans crossmember support.
@@kenl1079 Loosen but not fully remove. And the nuts? You could get to them to hold 'em. Any captive [read welded] nuts that may break loose? Did you have to hold the trans/and Transfer box up after things was loose?
I don't recall, but i would at least support the trans with a scissor jack and block of would to be safe and it will help line the crossmember holes back up too. I did not have any issues with or thought I would have issues with any welded nuts breaking. But i live in the south, so there is barely any rust to deal with here. I wouldPb blast any nuts. Ahead of time that you think might break.
@@kenl1079 Thax. Will give them a good spray of penetrating oil. The wife's 'Land Yacht' is a 1930 Ford Model 'A' ... body off-frame up. I had all 5,300 pieces in my hands. Owned this car for 32 years. scontent-msp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/193448_10150165017606098_5627448_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_ohc=iUvRxU0BaqEAQmxJttZ5GJSwEArAq3J28XlmvMUlKV4bqzc4VivmdMQdw&_nc_ht=scontent-msp1-1.xx&oh=3adb7df628ac2bd966730aa250c69e65&oe=5E8C6EEF
Where did you get those fender flares!
It's the same with all your CV and prop shafts--- once the boot is gone, the grease slings out and then it wears very quickly because it's dry. Especially if you're driving off road through creeks and deep mud holes, ect.. The water will wash out the grease very quickly. Luckily these kits are very cheap though.
How did you get the knuckle off the spline??
2005 jeep grand cherokee limited 5.7 with towing package.I got a small video on it. replacing the whole shaft next week.
ur the man apreaciated u making this video
I'm finding that CV rebuild kit too but no luck. My car is Ford Explorer 2016 2.3L Ecoboost Limited. Much appreciated if you could share links to the right part, bro.
Ken,U helped me a lot.Where can I get the new kit.Im in Pretoria
Did u have to remove any extra components under your jeep in order to have room to remove the drive shaft or did it just slide out once you loosened the bolts?
Yes...I had to remove the large bolts on one side and loosen the other side of the transmission mount.
Hi Ken. I have problem with my drive shaft CV Joint. I see that you used this part: Dorman 932-303
I have Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD (diesel not petrol) and I looking for good part. Are you happy from this part? Is it good part?
Without really knowing I would guess that this Doman CV joint is the same on both gas or diesel. Jeep would not use two different designs ... that cost money.
Mine made the ticking while coming to a complete stop slowly . or riding the brakes going slow.
did you had a humming noise like a wheel bearing with this problem ?
How the hell did you get the driveshaft out? I can't even unseat it from the front differential. There is a lip around the bearing assemly that goes into the front diff so it won't just drop out. I have to compress the front CV boot somehow to pull it out. Any advice would be very much appreciated.
Once screws are off you can use a hammer or large screw drives and hammer to pop loose and out
Hellooo there I have a question,
What if my Axel s bottom numbers says 432
Is the CV JOINT part num. the dame
How's the repair holding up?
Thanx for the video
It will help going forward
hello, I have a wk from 2008 and it makes me a noise similar to the noise of the video when turning the wheels to the left or to the right and also the front transmission seems to have no differential center ... is this the same problem?
Thanks so
I have an 02 WJ. Mine is making a "clunking" type noise that I can hear and feel in the driver side floor board. At first I thought it was my transfer case chain but my front driveshaft cv joint has ALOT of up/ down play in it so im thinking maybe it's my driveshaft? Any ideas?
It does it the worst when I'm turning left or accelerating from a dead stop. It doesn't do it when turning right at all (or at least not bad enough to where I notice)
I'm pretty sure I got the same noise going on in my wrangler did you figure out the issue? I think mine is the cv joint.
I had took my jeep in to get fluids replaced (differentials, transfer case, and transmission). I asked them to check out the differentials and they said they looked fine. So I think it is the drive shaft.
@@younghex9577 I did. It was my rear transmission mount. I don't know how the wranglers are set up but at the rear of my transmission, between the trans and the transfer case, I have a mount that bolts to the crossmember. It was pretty much destroyed and when I replaced it the noise stopped immediately
Strangely on my Dodge Nitro-- it has a prop/ CV joint on one end, but then has the standard U-joint style on the other end of the shaft.
Thank you so much for your video 😊
I need this exact video BUT for replacing the other CV joint that bolts to the front differential, not the t-case. Can anyone help me out?
How long did that dorman cv last you? Mine lasted about a month before being shot. Ended up getting one from a junk yard and it’s been fine for 3 years now.
Make sure the front diff bushings are good not letting the diff flop around so the cc stays at that angle
Cv*
Great video. I have a similar sound. Looks like you thought it may have been coming from the front diff. Was the torn boot on the transfer case end or the front diff end?
It was the transfer case side.
@@kenl1079 having same issue and will be bringing it into a shop next week. My commander is getting up there but I'm trying to keep her going. How much do you think this repair will cost ? Thanks :)
If I remove the driveshaft will it run in rear wheel drive?
I have a popping noise not as prominent as yours but also have a loud grinding noise and vibration coming from under the driver floor board I'm assuming its the bearings on the front driveshaft was yours making the grinding noise too?
Excellent video.!! Very very helpful
Question: were you able to get the driveshaft out without lowering the transmission crossmember, or did you have to lower it? I ask because some have said they had to lower the crossmember but it may be necessary with the other style of driveshaft that uses a u joint on the front end of it instead of the CV with the boot....
I did have to partially remove one side and loosen the other side of the crossmember. I let it hang just enough to slide the drive shaft through.
Ken L thanks!
Was the noise a kind of clinking noise? Like a bell?
John Miller i have a ford sport trac with the clinking noise u ask about. This was exactly the problem i had. Once i took the front driveshaft off the clinking stopped. Bad cv joint
OK I have one more question for you....I picked up the Dorman CV repair kit and what I noticed is that the CV is pretty stiff it does not flex easily (not greased yet) like a CV joint on a steering axle does. Was this your experience as well or did it flex easily? I asked the guy a the parts store and he didn't know. I thought of calling Dorman's tech support and asking them....
I dont recall off hand...but I think that once you grease it up and installed, it will be fine.
thanks again!
Should be tight and it should not have to 'flex' a whole lot ... all straight line spinning ... twisting. No turning lock to lock like on a CV joint at the wheels. That's my guess. Now Ill check the answers.
I have a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited we have rear drive shaft out How do u determine if that’s what is bad cause the drive shaft seems fine?
great question, but you didnt give any info so how can one answer it?
Did yours start squeaking at first?
I dont recall squeaking.... But if there is no grease, I could see how that could cause squeaks. Might want to check your wheel bearings as well.
Mine made an AWFUL screech. Worse than anything I’ve ever heard. When I took it off, nothing. So I’m in the process of rebuilding it now!
@@gooz0mbie was this the problem
but no actual rebuild procedure...?
Could that cause a cab drone
Next time, just crawl under and grab the shaft and twist it back and for, like you were doing with the tire; and then you can feel the 'clanking' and also wiggle the shaft side to side as you're twisting it--- and then it will be very obvious. Just get kinda rough with it and twist it back and forth fairly hard--- because your engine is definitely not going easy on it. lol..
Solid video.
nice detective work.
How much time to do it
How can you tell what size you need?
It doesnt matter which way you put it on becouse moco dont balance them as a whole assembly ~ transfer case,shaft etc .... shaft is balanced individualy as well as mounting flages on both ends
Nice video. I think this is my exact issue. Thank you.
Hi , how did you take the shaft off ? Do I have to move the transfer or just pull it off ,
what year jeep commander and engine size?
2010 Commander 5.7 v8 Hemi
Thanks
Mine does that only when I drive a couple of meters but stop's when I Carrie on driving only does that when I start the car and move forward so Gona take the front drive shaft of
Mine does the same exact thing and ive been trying to narrow down what it could be. Hoping its just this driveshaft making the "rocks in a meat grinder" sound.
Mine did that, but now it’s constantly doing it under load/pressing the gas, but it doesn’t do it when coasting. I hope this will help!
Did it work for you?
Thank you.
Did a new driveshaft fix your issue ?
But how did you get it out!
That's what I'm trying to figure out!
@@mitchellmarquardt4244 I successfully removed them without damage by spraying them with Liquid Wrench over night, then lightly hitting them with the hammer to get them lose with vibration and they slowly came off! Best of luck!
@@kevinlemus7254 Thanks for the advice. I eventually got mine out. I didn't realize the front part (nearest engine) actually "compresses" so that allows it to come out! I should have taken pictures for others.
I should start doing these videos. I've got a 2007 Grand Cherokee 5.7 and I've done nothing but replace part after part. It does have 197k miles, but still a solid SUV overall.
About to do mine.
Thanks for NOT showing how you got it out…. After unbolting
Informative but shaky camera work made me nauseated
Please stop running everywhere with camera and tell what you going to do
Holy I never heard someone who’s probably young moan and complain so much moving around and I’m in the trade business 12 years age 32 lol stop complaining so much lol you’re not 70
I'm 70 and this should be no problem. I may have to put a cheater bar [tube] over the ratchet to get things moving. I'll be doing it in the snow in my driveway.
Is the u joints 100 +
Great video