'06 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK Front Differential Bushing Fix - Front End Clunk - DIY Repair
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2022
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In this video, I cover replacing the common fail front differential bushings in a WK Grand Cherokee.
The owner purchased the following bushing kit which has worked well so far...
Bushing Kit
amzn.to/3FulrUY
Merch & Black Diesel Gear
www.notsograndgarage.com
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#jeep #grandcherokee #wk #differentialbushings #bushings #diy #repair #build #fix #cherokee - Авто та транспорт
Great video on this. Makes me feel so much more confident when i see a guy doing it on the ground like me
Thanks for watching. Glad it was helpful!
@@NotSoGrandGarageif I go to my local mechanic and bring the new parts to him what’s a good estimate for the labor? I’m a broke college student don’t have tools or a garage but I do have the parts now via Amazon $30
and my budget for labor is $200-$300 no more than that ty in advance 🙏🏽
@lstruggy I'd say it could be done for that. Just depends on labor rates in your area and if they're honest with the time it takes. If it were here, I'd be around 150-200 depending on how it comes apart. If stuff is corroded.. bolts frozen/stuck and it's a fight... eh.. could get stupid quickly. With that said, it could be done in a driveway with hand tools if you get creative.
Great video. I comfortably listened at 1.75x speed😂.
Well that's a time saver. Lol
Thanks so much for posting. I think you’ve given me some confidence to try this myself. Still a bit nervous about getting the old bushing out.
I'm in Indiana... with that said, either an air hammer or a hammer and chisel will take out the old bushings. It's not a bad job... but can be time consuming. You can rent a ball joint press from most parts stores.
@@NotSoGrandGarage How easy/effective do you think it would be to simply knock out the rubber center of the old top bushing then hacksaw a slit in the ring to release tension?
@@BrienDunn idt that would be very effective. if you dont have a air hammer a chisel and hammer to beat the lip in then the correct sizes socket to beat it out has worked many times for me. a cheap air chisel is like 50 bucks and completely worth it
@@JDemasi I did the job 2 weeks ago based on this video procedure(s) and things worked fine. Each vehicle will have its own unique challenges for sure and mine is a 2005 JGC 5.7L w/ low 80k miles which means this is the first time any of these bolts were removed in 18 years. Predictably, most were practically welded in place and required substantive assistance to remove. He isn't kidding about the drive shaft factory lock-tight. Have some heat available for sure. After removing the differential, the air chisel I bought did a piss-poor job of removing the bushings and I had to mostly rely on a hammer and hand chisel, but they eventually came off. A pressing tool rental from Autozone accomplished the bushing installations but that also required a lot of creativity to properly position, etc... Reinstallation of the Differential required serious balancing efforts with a hydraulic shop jack and a few large blocks of wood. But, I thought all of the hard work was for naught in the end as I couldn't get the driver's side CV axle reinserted properly, requiring a delay for a day until my nephew could assist. But, we kept rotating it incrementally and pushing and suddenly the damned thing just snapped into place with almost no effort. Advice for anyone doing this job is to mark the CV joint prior to removal as I think this would've saved major time and effort. All in all, very pleased and fixed the shift knocking issue, but it took 3 days mostly because of the stuck and rusted bolts. Now, good as new.
Holy hell I just bought a 5.7 Hemi with Quadradrive and 201k miles. Was getting told that it was the transmission, transfer case, differential, all these scary diagnostics, with no clear answer no matter where I looked. Had mine checked after this video and sure enough, it was the mounts that needed replacing (mainly the one you mentioned being the troublemaker). Thank you very much
Good deal! Glad you got it figured out
@@30J88 these bushings will typically clunk when shifting from reverse to drive and drive to reverse... or if you take off quickly. A grinding noise at all times would make me think wheel bearing or brake issue. Jack it up and see if the front wheels have any slop in them. Spin them by hand and see if you hear the noise.
Nice job
Thanks! Appreciate you watching.
I have the commander, and searching for this problem with "commander" only brought up dropping the diff. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks for watching
I had this problem with my jeep and didn’t had time to replace them. Ended up just cleaning the old bushing really good and I just pumped some urethane glue back in it and let it dried over night and it’s been two years and still working good, no clonking yet.
I've filled bushings before. Can certainly work well.
Like so many things I don't want to do myself it's not the cost of the parts but the cost of getting the job done. For only the second time in my life I paid a mechanic for an out of warranty repair. The clunk in my 10' Laredo was less of a bother than the sound a cement mixer full of gravel going up hills. 2.3K later along with a bad front driveshaft CV joint it is quiet going to my job to pay for future repairs so I can continue going to my job.
Glad you got it sorted.
Yo can do it with out pulling out diff or drive line, you started ok all you need to do is to place jack under diff to support only remove all the mounting bolts to the bushings than lower the diff on the jack and rotate the complete diff, you may need to move the diff assembly side to side and back and forward a bit and it will rotate enough for you to get to the Bushings, and using a bush push, pull kit you should be able to remove the bushings and reinstall the news ones. Give it a try next time. I have accomplished this myself only took me an hour to replace all bushings.
If I get another in the shop, I'll give the method a try.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Yep it woks fine, I must say it is easer with a full shop lift. The Bushing kit makes it much easer, when you remove the bushing closest to the Diff a flat steel plate with a hole to one side on top of the adaptor of the press kit makes it easer so you do not get obstructed by the diff body. good luck next time.
Did you pull the front driveshaft from the T-case to rotate the diff?
Thanks for the video! Could the bushing have been removed ALSO with the same ball joint press that you used to install it? Was it just faster with the air chisel? What was the grease you used to install the bushing? It looked red.
It's possible I'd say but the air hammer was faster for sure. The grease was just assembly grease that wouldn't hurt the rubber.
Thanks for the video! I have an 08 Commander with the same issue (RHD) makes me think with a few extra tools could probably change it ourselves.
It's definitely doable! Can likely do it with less tools than I show if you get creative. Or if you pull the differential out, I'm sure a local shop could press out the old bushing and press in the new one for a few bucks. Would save a good bit on labor.
Not to rusty! thats nice, must not be in new england
This one was pretty clean... fairly low miles for the age. Nice for a change. Lol
Really good video! I have some of that clonk in my WK but the most annoying part is that is gives a whiny sound under load. When im just coasting it is quiet. Any theory what that could be? It has about 274.000 miles in it so i guess it`s ok to whine some then. 😆
Could be a pinion bearing or an issue with the t-case. Hard to say
I have a 2006 Jeep Commander, there's a loud hum (hum being a small explanation) and it only happens when I accelerate or cruise, if I let off the gas it's totally quiet. There's no clunking, clicking or rattleing sound. I've replaced both axles and front hubs,,the noise certainly sounds like it's in the front, maybe the differential. Hoping you might know some about a jeep! Is there a bearing that's causing the trouble in my front carrier? By the way it rides and drives great. Thanks.
Could be the cv on the drive shaft... could be a bearing internal to the differential. Any oil leaks from the front differential? When was the last time the differential was serviced?
@@NotSoGrandGarage the front drive shaft is gonna be my next operation,,doesn't look like it's a big job to remove. If I'm not mistaken the car won't move with the front shaft out? No leaks and my fluid level is full and rather clean. It's probably the loudest cruising between 35 and 50. like going through town.
@haze61151 depends on the transfer case if it will be drivable without the front shaft in place. Not sure.
Here's what mine is sounding like, this isn't mine by the way. ua-cam.com/video/rpdpnMQJGtI/v-deo.html
I have a series of clucks when the front wheels come under a load. Say if I am offroading and going a technical climb, it's like something is slipping. I can't figure out why. Any suggestions?
Get the front tires off the ground... grab the tire amd rotate it firmly in both directions and see if the clunk shows up. If its mount related, you should hear it or at least feel movement. If not, could be cv shafts, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc..
The front bushing you replaced was a replacement part as well. So you didn't remove the factory bushing there. That said, no wonder the marks on the rubber where the same.
I can tell that by the metal part of the bushing, because the OEM one has several distinctive marks, which where missing on both of your shown front bushings.
Btw, the OEM one is end of life, so now you don't have any chance to get a factory part anymore, 7 months before, you would have.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Interesting about the front one being non oem. It's possible I suppose but the current owner has had the jeep for years and they didn't have it replaced. If it were replaced at some point, it would have been at really low mileage.
Considering the failure rate of these bushings, I wouldn't have wanted to go back with oem. Wasn't my call though as it wasn't my vehicle.
Thanks for watching.
When you serviced the differential, did you take the cover off? If you did did you put RTV on it or a gasket? If you used a gasket what was the part number?
IIRC, I just did a drain and fill. If you pull the cover, just reseal it with black RTV.
@@NotSoGrandGarage thank you for getting back to me. Very informative video. I'll be replacing my bushings this weekend
@@thallenius No problem and thanks for watching! It's a pretty straight forward fix... just take your time.
What about heating those bushings with a torch lamp to get them removed?
I'd say it's doable... just have to remove the shell after.
Do poly bushings transmit more driveline noise than stock ?
They can yes as they are stiffer... but they don't typically fail. It's a trade off.
Advice! Im almost finished with the job (was a bear with rusted bolts) and I can’t get the driver’s side CV joint to seat back in the differential. Suggestions? Tricks?
Slide it into the housing... then use something like a block of wood to catch the outer part of the CV and give it a smack towards the housing. Its just the locking ring holding it from going in.
I tried that and no luck. If I remove the 36mm axle nut it should pop in with a sharp hit?
It'll take a firm hit.
Did you get it back together?
@@NotSoGrandGarage yeah! We finally got it. I took the axle but off but couldn’t get the CV disconnected so we went back to trying by hand. We rotated it slowly, trying to stab it every small turn and finally it just slid in with no issue. Test drive was perfect. THANKS so much for your video and support as It gave me the confidence to try it on my own. It was a lot of work given every bolt was rusted. However, as explained earlier, only one auto shop was willing to do it and they charged $1800 for labor only.
Do you still have the brushing number from Amazon
link to them is in the video description.
Oh. I cannot find any local mechanic shop willing to do the job. They all look at their shop guides and then say the same thing, ‘this job requires disassembly of most of the front suspension’. Then they say take it somewhere else. Curious what part of the country you’re located?
Pretty sad that a shop isn't willing to do this job. Smh. This is one of the reasons I started turning wrenches for others.
Has to be on neutral or park or it doesn’t matter ?
Shouldn't matter
How well has that kit held up with regular driving
I talk to the owner on a regular basis. No issues so far.
Do you have a link to the kit
@BnE Rc Adventures 2.0 its in the video description
How much would a shop typically charge to swap out these bushings and the mount bracket?
I'd have to guess between $500-1000 in labor. If you found a mom and pop shop that is honest and charges reasonable rates, it'd be under $500 in labor.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Thank you. I just rebuilt the entire front end suspension system in February, and noticed I have the clunking when shifting gears or when the transmission shifts after I let off the gas. I think this is the issue 🙄 After dealing with the lower shock clevis bolt and the front LCA bolts having to be cut, I’m ready to cut a check for someone else to do this. Lol.
@@TinManReloading Oof... yeah I don't doubt it. BUT... since it was all recently apart, it should be a lot faster. Gotta look at the positives. Lol
What's the book hours on this job
No idea.
I have three jack stands can I put one on the rear differential to support the car and still be able to remove the front differential??
The rear can stay on the ground. Just lift the front high enough and support it with 2 stands.
Where can i purchase that lift?
Its a Bendpak QuickJack 7k
@@NotSoGrandGarage pricey but effective! Thanks for the response and great video mate!
@JAVIERMARTINEZ-pn7nm no problem bud. Thanks for watching. You can snag them on sale from time to time or they come up on marketplace from time to time.
How much should a mechanic charge to do that job ??
Depends on their rate. IIRC, it took around 3-3.5 hours and I'd never pulled a front diff from a WK.
What did you charge for this is 600 a fare price?
If I remember correctly... I only charged ~$200-250 in labor. Just straight time.